Re-Touch, Re-Touch . . the story continues
Part 2 also lost in the weight of this Blog...
In our little project I decided to tackle 2 birds, as I get this additional question and problem all the time. It is the single biggest battle and conflict between clients and Hair stylists there is, and that is the battle between hi-lift blond versus bleach as the best and LEAST damaging lightener. I've spoken about it many times, people get all wrapped up in the "NAME". .for some strange reason the word "BLEACH" just plain and simply freaks people out when a hair stylist mentions it.
ALL people are afraid of the word BLEACH. I still haven't nailed the reason - 'why' - but its a universal problem. Some of it has to do with the fact that they have had bleach used on their hair and it was used incorrectly and destroyed their hair. All hair color if used INCORRECTLY can destroy your hair. But, there are just so many precautions set in place now with professional hair color. Do you realize that is the manufacturers main goal ??? to produce a shiny -- rich -- vibrant -- head of hair color - - I know this because a former best friend of mine was the regional VP for a large European Hair Color manufacturer. Remember your hair color is their calling card, that is why they strive to have the best color possible, its not something that one can hide, hair color is right there....IN YOUR FACE!
But I can tell you that I have seen 50 times more destroyed hair from people using Boxed Hair Color Kits than from clients whom have used the bleach - wrong. So why isn't there a big terror factor with the words Boxed Hair Color Kit ? ? There should be, there really should be. ..
Today we will go into applying the high lift blonde on one quadrant in the proper mannerr . . . and then applying Killerstrands Oil Bleach (so gentle and moisturizing) to the right back quadrant.
This way we can see twice how to apply a re-touch. . . showing you no matter what color or product you are using a re-touch is a re-touch and its all applied the same way.
Here are your supplies and some gloves!Now on this Mannequin I was told her hair is completely natural with no treatments on it to prevent my color from working exactly as it would on a human head. But you just never know. I'm going to bet that she will end up with Level 7-8 roots. . . . 8 at the very lightest . . .but Trixie is a mannequin with tricky hair - so we will just have to see.
The 2 back sections we will be working with today. Left will be the high-lift Blond and the right will be the Killerstrands Oil Bleach. Treat each section as its own little quadrant. Don't even think about the rest of the head when you are working on the one section. It will help with your speed. Being able to apply the color quickly is a tremendous advantage, and the only trick to learning that ? ? ?
Is ............PRACTICE................. PRACTICE ................PRACTICE....... !
Always start with outlining the section - FIRST with the color or bleach.
have color on the brush so you can flip it around and apply color after you have parted off section. Its a little tricky at first - - but again - practice - practice -- practice which is why
<<<<<< LOOK HERE
Working from the bottom of the quadrant to the top:
in 1/2 inch partings again, I really encourage all of you to purchase a doll head and use her to practice on - this is your new hobby - - take it seriously and purchase the products you need to begin a new hobby
. .There are about 20 different mannequins - so any thing you want is available.
If you want me to carry them, please just fill in the FEEDBACK button on store....
Apply the product to the top and bottom of the parting/roots - at the same time, to enable you to move quickly - which will help you get the job done quickly.
You will notice the partings go up the head within a quadrant till reaching the top. 
Now for interest in this project I have decided to apply bleach to the other side back quadrant . . . my absolute favorite 'on-the-scalp' bleach is Killerstrands Oil Bleach, you cannot get Oil Bleach ANYWHERE in the country, currently, but here. I will not do a bleach and tone without it. It leaves the hair in the best condition while also lightening the quickest and leaving the most striking tones. Its available in our store. KILLER COLOR CLINIC, you join our group first for access to the store. We like to remain small - quiet - and personal, there are 3 of us.... to help when you make a purchase with guidance and help on the products you choose.
We are trying to promote HAIR COLOR as a new American Hobby and want to get it off the ground on the right foot.
So lets start the Bleaching side . . . 1st Step? Again OUTLINE the quadrant with the Bleach.
So this section is done the exactsame way as the high lift blonde. Iencourage all of you to practicethe DIP- PART - FLIP & APPLYTECHNIQUE- once you get itdown, your application will go soquickly and smoothly you will thinkyou were a PRO!. Seriously, its notthat hard and once again all it takesits a little PRACTICE PRACTICEPRACTICE
There you have it, the 2nd quadrant completed. I hope you got the feeling of working on each quadrant as its own little project...zipping through the slices with DPFA
the faster you get the better your retouch is going to look, so each time you will get a little better and faster.
Time for them to 'cook', is what I like to call it.
Then when doing 1-1 1/2 ' of hair it will take 65 minutes, after that the procedure is always the same...........
Rinse for 5 - 10 minutes with clear luke-cool water.
Follow with INTENSIVE on entire head..........apply more on new color ...............process 30-90 minutes. rinse and Tone with
MATRIX SPV + SPN...10Volume
or
Color Touch 8/1 (darker blond) + 13Volume
I'm always calling the two hobbies the same - - - cooking and hair . I feel hair should be as natural and as organic and as fun as cooking I suppose, that may sound strange but I feel it can be . Can you imagine if you would have been offered a class in "Hair Care" or "HEALTHY HAIR" and then the advanced class was "HAIR COLOR 101 " in High School, what a great and productive Elective that would have been! Can you imagine the amount of people that would want to take the class ?
Any questions? Please leave them in FEEDBACK button in store please. . . Have a great weekend everyone - I love you all . . . .
This is a RE-POSTING of a lost Post from 2007 !
KILLER CHEMIST
Killer chemist
Posts
Was Gleam applied to the roots here? Or has it just absorbed into the hair?
ReplyDelete*bit confused*
:)
ALLY,
ReplyDeleteYes, I applied GLEAM to the roots, then you just apply the color on top of it. When color is put on the hair the cuticle is opened so the color or bleach can go INSIDE the hair shaft and change it! By putting the GLEAM on beofre you color.. . .look at the last picture of the day beofre. . . you will see me putting the GLEAM on. So, I just now finished drying her hair.
This one even BLOWS me away.. wait till you see the difference in her hair and she isn't even alive! The entire look of her hair is a 180 degree turn around. I applied GLEAM AND THRIVEN to her hair - - ONE TIME - - !
Not much amazes me anymore. .
but using the GLEAM sure does . . the conditioning it gives to the hair. . .
Wait till you see her in Sunday's Post - it is truly amazing ! ! !
And yet, still a Doll! !
hope that helps
KC
Do you find it easier to work from the bottom to top or top to bottom? Or does it really matter?
ReplyDeleteSarah,
ReplyDeleteGREAT QUESTION . . .I guess you can't tell from the photos! Never thought of that. . . and YES YES it DOES matter!
Always start at the Bottom and work towards the top, like I said - - Its Gods way of showing how he made the human body to go along with hair color application ;-)
The more resistant hair is at the bottom so the color needs to be on those hairs - the longest. The hairs on top turn quicker so they don't need the color on on quite as long! I mean we are only talking minutes . . . so it truly isn't that big of a deal. . . BUT funny & IRONIC just the same, don't you think.
Plus its easier to maneuver when you start at the bottom, you will see as soon as you try it.
Many times I do my own color just because I don't feel like driving an hour to get it done. Doing my own color I have the mounted 3 way mirror up in the bathroom and I section, and start at the bottom and I DPFA . . my way thru all 4 quadrants. Its really only because you get the best coverage this way. Hair color itself still needs to hit every strand and that only happens properly with the TINT BRUSH / TINT BOWL method of hair-color application. As you will be seeing coming out in Sally's and your local beauty supplies they are going to start pushing this method on you as well. Using a bottle method of application is from the 1950's... in my opinion its time for an update for the millions of women that color their hair at home.
So I think the little effort it takes to learn a new method or if its your first time, just starting out using the proper method would be great as well.
The other methods just don't get the hair-color applied properly and are as archaic as the boxes they come in
hope this helps
thanks !
KC
Hey Killer; thanks for another 'killer' post! Very informative. I just wanted to ask you this: what do you do with the hair once it has been processed with bleach? What I mean is, I section, apply my bleach in quadrants, and then put a bag over my head to keep the heat and moisture in so the bleach doesn't dry out. I usually clip each section before I do this. I'm worried that the bag is 'mashing' the hair down while it's processing, causing some hair to overlap on the bleach (hope this makes sense). Putting the bag on really seems to work, so I don't want to give up this part. Do you just keep all the hair down and hanging or do you clip it up in some different way? It's the one part of root touchup that is still a mystery to me.
ReplyDeleteGreat post, this is my first visit to your blog. LOVE this tutorial.
ReplyDeleteMy younger sister is training to become a stylist and she's had me pretty hooked on hair for years.
I'm fully considering getting a weave for a few months and taking it out before it has a chance to cause traction alopecia. Just as something to make my life easier for a while because my hair is so high maintenance. I've heard so many different opinions on how long you can keep the braids in and all of these different things that, being new to this type of hair enhancement, I feel so lost.
Any insights.
Ugh, my post didn't show.
ReplyDeleteI have the same problem with the bleach overlapping. I used to put a shower cap on my head after i applied bleach to the roots, but stopped because i, too, felt like the hair was being pushed down on top of the bleach and breaking off. Now i just try to clip in so my hair sits almost vertical from my head. I still feel like it happens. Maybe I'm paranoid. Any tips KC?
Also, one more question for clarity. Is Gleam washed out before the bleach goes on? Or do you apply Gleam and leave it in then bleach over top?
Thanks.
Agele,
ReplyDeleteWow, great to see the interest in this post. . .
thanks so much. good for my health.
there is ABSOLUTELY no reason FOR A BAG. Sorry, I do not agree with that method at all.
If you are using my Oil Bleach, why would you need a bag?? Oil Bleach never dries out, that's why I use it. You are ruining your hair if you are using a powder bleach or any other bleach than what I recommend. Why do that to youself?
Isn't your hair worth the best treatment you can give it>? You will spend twice as much repairing it.
Many of you don't think you are doing damage, because you don't see it right away. That's not how hair damage shows its ugly head.
When you do the "damaging act"- you will never see the damage right away.
EVER!
That's why so many of you come to me with the "I don't know what happened or why my hair is breaking off"? ? ?
This topic will be a very soon-to-be upcoming post.
See in the photo how the hair is just sticking out ? That's what you do with it . . NOTHING.
Just leave it - sticking out and don't touch it.
You have 62 minutes to do whatever you want that has to do with hair - stay focused on trying to get healthy hair.
{Trixie's hair is a LEVEL 4-5 so pretty dark and I was concerned that one bleaching of her roots might not be enough. I have a trick for that. Which I will give away on the following Post. So stay tuned.}
Drink some water, cut up your vegetables for the week, read the Blogs 10,000HEADS Rules {again}... use this time to stay focused on your hair and how to improve it.
I feel so many of you that write with these wonderful positive stories of how great your hair has become after purchasing THRIVEN / secret supplement and following all my rules - have taken this serious.
I mean what's better than a healthy - luscious - vibrant head of hair?
Not a whole lot....
if you really think about it...
Being skinny?
A lot of you are too skinny . . where did that get you? Crappy hair, huh?
Personally I'd rather have better hair than be skinny.
I've had both, and learned a really tough lesson...skinny isn't all its cracked up to be.
Having healthy beautiful gorgeous hair - IS !
There is no reason to use a bag, if you are using the right product. That is a technique they used in the 50's that should be your answer right there. You are causing over-lapping in a most horrible way, so lose the bag.
overlapping is one of my TOP TEN REASONS that will DESTROY YOUR HAIR... so that I would say is something you need to lose immediately.
thanx
hope that helps
KC
Hey Ally,
ReplyDeleteNO NO shower caps or any other bells and whistles . . . do just as I showed you. Can't remember what level your hair is ?? Do you do that because you thik it will help with the LIFT? Because if I am not mistaken you do use Levitation OIL Bleach, right?
I have a trick for that . . .
{as I do for about everything!!}
Which will come with the next Post in this Series, so stay tuned. .
[You are still using Levitation Oil Bleach - - CORRECT? ? ?]
You are missing the whole point with the GLEAM. The GLEAM stays ON the hair and you apply the bleach right on top of it. You want that oil on the hair where you ae applying the bleach ( or color) so that it goes ( with the bleach) INSIDE the hair strand and puts those lipids inside the hair strand. Are you thinking that maybe the oil might prevent the bleach from working? NO that is not the case AT ALL - QUITE THE OPPOSITE actually.... The oil is just a conduit to the whole process.
Actually makes the bleach (or color) go INTO the hair strand more easily <> moisturizes the road and leaves it in better health than before it was applied. Wait till you see Trixie's hair from just adding that and THRIVEN to her hair, I'm still laughing about the change - - every time I walk by her.
I'm not used to people having super poorly conditioned hair, people come to me to get on my program so everyone in my life has pretty well conditioned hair, as you might imagine.
So yes....APPLY GLEAM - then apply BLeach ON TOP OF IT.
I even suggest applying it an hour before you plan to color so it can soak in..once you do it once... you will never "not" do it again.
Its important which oils you use as well...some are too oily and have no benefits for hair - which is why GLEAM is so perfect. . . 4 Hair oils and one secret oil.
You get it now?
hope that helps
KC
lalaelena,
ReplyDeleteI am going to clarify your question for all my readers..
In the hair world there are 2 different types of "weaves".
#1) There is a weave of hair color.
Where we 'weave' different colors into the hair using foils and various hair colors.
then there is
#2) weave of Hair , in which the use of hair extensions and fake hair strands which are weaved into and onto your existing hair . . . for one of many reasons.
This method was developed for Ethnic hair, but now everyone uses it - 85% if the hair you see on TV and Film is hair Extensions (REMEMBER THAT)- which gives me the chills.
Laleaena,
I might not be the one to ask - I'm pretty frank and to the point, you might not like my answer {but I am HONEST} I am just not a fan of extensions that are glued, or tied in or any of those painful, stressful, damaging techniques they use in order to get them to stay in.
So <> NO NO NO is my answer.
Temporary - where they are merely "CLIPPED" in are the only ones I stand behind. Thee can be worn for a night or a day, or a photo shoot or a wedding or a big date or......you get the idea.
I have witnessed and listened to just too much permanent damage done by them . . . and this has been done at the highest level of hair styling by the BEST of the BEST Extension experts in the world.
If not even they can do it successfully I simply cannot endorse the method. I just do NOT recommend anyone having it done, I'm sorry. Its the whole "delayed damage" thing once again. You won't see it - right away- it will show its ugly head months later, so how will you know when to take them out - the damage could realistically be done the FIRST MONTH !
Even Jennifer Anniston has had this happen to her, Chris McMillian still couldn't keep his client from having this happen and its something that CAN be permanent.
sorry - this is the home of healthy hair - period.
Why are there no other options for you?
KC
Thanks for the response! Even though I am in cosmetology school I feel like I am still learning some pretty key things from your blog. No one ever mentioned to me that hair is more resistant in the back...
ReplyDeleteAnd I really wish I knew about your methods of bleaching. I used powder bleach and 20 vol to lift my panels. And then go back and put a bright red on them. Oh my gosh are they damaged! I thought I underestimated the porosity of my ends (i didn't even lift it all the way, it was still very yellow). But I wish I would have known about oil bleach. I think that would have helped. I am pretty sure I am going to have to cut those ends off now...
Sarah,
ReplyDeleteFor your State BOARDS you should learn all of that, although many states have archaic views on that. They haven't reviewed and updated the Cosmetology State boards in some States (sometimes since the 50's - 60's) .
But if you are covering GRAY you should start in the front Quads, obviously to have the color on the resistant GRAY the longest.
But still the back of the hair is more resistant - period.
NEVER - NEVER use powder bleach on the scalp . . . WHY?
WHY do that to yourself?
Your HAIR?
Your pocket book? (its more expensive)
Oil Bleach is a little messy, thats its only drawback....BIG DEAL.
When applying powder bleach at the root like that it has the entire length of your hair to go with bleach after bleach re-touch,
> it needs to be cared for like the fragile hair strands they are..
ALWAYS use the right tool for the JOB.
In HAIR COLOR we have soooooooo many TOOLS.
USE the proper TOOL for the job.
That needs to be everyone's goal.
Figure out the proper tool
for your job
on your hair,
and use it,
DO NOT TRY TO CUT CORNERS
your hair will suffer from it.
You need to order THRIVEN. I'm telling you - its the only Conditioner that truly repairs damage . . .if you have great hair and just damage . . you will only need one 8 OZ jar.
You won't believe the results.
I have lots of Hair Stylists tell me they buy THRIVEN and use it on their clients with the severe Damage.
If I were you I would use it on yourself - so you know what it does and how well it works, then buy it and use it on your clients. . . tell them it is your secret weapon . . and you will have dozens of people come to you for this wonder treatment...
You need some sort of gimic like that to make you stand out from other hair stylists.
I had people come from miles away that heard about 10,000 HEADS and THRIVEN - thinning hair will be one of your clients biggest problems . . .
hope that helps
KC
Thanks so much KC! My order for Gleam and a few other things is on the way! This is such an amaing idea and I'm so excited.
ReplyDeleteYes I'm still using Levitation. It's fantastic! I'm a level 7 red.
Another learning moment for me! The fact that the resistant gray is in the front quads (yes) and that the high lifts just don't have enough pigment to cover the gray in those very light colors... explains why I need to be a darker blonde/light brown to get full gray coverage now that I'm >50% gray! These posts, read together - and your answers here - are more good information. I love learning every time I read...Thank you!
ReplyDeleteIf you are trying to cover gray should you do the front quandrants first because they are more resistant?
ReplyDeleteAlly,
ReplyDeleteSo great to hear you are on the KS road, why don't you document and win the CRIB COLORIST AWARD like JANE did. Check Out her POST in the GROUP, I bet you could do as well, you sound really thorough.
Plus - the THRIVEN THRUST might be of interest to you . . .
Wait till you try the GLEAM, and the difference it makes...I still have secrets I have not given out...lots of them!
You have hundreds as a Colorist in my range makes up as they go along.
Most take them to the grave.
KC
Nik,
ReplyDeleteYes my dear... when covering gray you always begin in the front quads, so the color sits on there just as lllllllong as possible.
Yes an 8N + 8NBG is about the best blond for super grays, you may not like that shade, but as I have said many times:
Not all hair can be ALL Colors and you must except that.
KC
SEWL,
ReplyDeleteYes, my dear. . . ALWAYS.
Plus, add 15 minutes to how long you leave it on. They shorten the time thinking that hair stylists are always in a hurry. Resistant hair is tough and needs the extra minutes
{if your hair is porous it most likely is NOT GRAY so NO you would NOT leave it on longer in that case.}
The color you purchase is the color it goes TO,
leaving it on longer does enable it to go to a lighter or darker color.
KC
Ahhhh....thanks for your detailed and logical response KC! It makes sense NOT to use the bag. I'm going to give it a whirl on my next go-round.
ReplyDeleteAlly: sorry to hear you had the same result by using a bag - overlapping. I'm going to try your vertical clip job without the bag and see if that leads to no overlapping! Thanks.
Hi, if you don't use oil bleach, but powder instead, what strength of peroxide do you use in foils and on scalp?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Preppie
Preppie, I'm not KillerC, but I wanted to answer your question. I always use 20 vol. or lower on the scalp, no matter whether it's oil or powder bleach I use. Any higher than that and you may experience discomfort or burning of the scalp. Also, a lower volume is better for the hair as it does not blow out the cuticle.
ReplyDeleteSorry KillerC if I have overstepped my boundaries! Had to respond. :)
Agele,
ReplyDeleteNO, no boundaries here . . . the more help the better, don't worry about me . . I'm not like that .
And that is the exact answer I would give - except I would continue to tell her that I would NOT use powder bleach on the scalp - add GLEAM to the mixture and make it an oil bleach ;-)
KC
Agele,
ReplyDeleteNO, no boundaries here . . . the more help the better, don't worry about me . . I'm not like that .
And that is the exact answer I would give - except I would continue to tell her that I would NOT use powder bleach on the scalp - add GLEAM to the mixture and make it an oil bleach ;-)
KC
Agele,
ReplyDeleteNO, no boundaries here . . . the more help the better, don't worry about me . . I'm not like that .
And that is the exact answer I would give - except I would continue to tell her that I would NOT use powder bleach on the scalp - add GLEAM to the mixture and make it an oil bleach ;-)
KC
Thanks KillerS! I just wanted to clarify: when I say 'powder bleach,' I mean a bleach meant for the scalp like Wella Blondor. They make a powder bleach (really good) that goes on-scalp. I even mix oil it in too to make it even more gentle.
ReplyDeleteThanks for all of your great advice. I'm going to try the Levitan Oil Bleach and the Gleam.
ReplyDeleteI'm confused though, as I can't make out if I'm supposed to use both the Levitan with the 100 Ash from Colorissimo mixed with the #27 Moonlight. Could you please tell me what exactly I need to get a Platinum Blonde safely?
Thanks so much.
Victoria.