Bleach Re-Touch....Re-Touch .....Who Wants A ReTouch - Part 2 (demo)

Re-Touch, Re-Touch . . the story continues
Part 2 also lost in the weight of this Blog... 
 
In our little project I decided to tackle 2 birds, as I get this additional question and problem all the time. It is the single biggest battle and conflict between clients and Hair stylists there is, and that is the battle between hi-lift blond versus bleach as the best and LEAST damaging lightener. I've spoken about it many times, people get all wrapped up in the "NAME". .for some strange reason the word "BLEACH" just plain and simply freaks people out when a hair stylist mentions it.

ALL people are afraid of the word BLEACH. I still haven't nailed the reason - 'why' - but its a universal problem. Some of it has to do with the fact that they have had bleach used on their hair and it was used incorrectly and destroyed their hair. All hair color if used INCORRECTLY can destroy your hair. But, there are just so many precautions set in place now with professional hair color. Do you realize that is the manufacturers main goal ??? to produce a shiny -- rich -- vibrant -- head of hair color - - I know this because a former best friend of mine was the regional VP for a large European Hair Color manufacturer. Remember your hair color is their calling card, that is why they strive to have the best color possible, its not something that one can hide, hair color is right there....IN YOUR FACE!

 But I can tell you that I have seen 50 times more destroyed hair from people using Boxed Hair Color Kits than from clients whom have used the bleach - wrong. So why isn't there a big terror factor with the words Boxed Hair Color Kit ? ? There should be, there really should be. ..


Today we will go into applying the high lift blonde on one quadrant in the proper mannerr . . . and then applying Killerstrands Oil Bleach  (so gentle and moisturizing) to the right back quadrant. 

This way we can see twice how to apply a re-touch. . . showing you no matter what color or product you are using a re-touch is a re-touch and its all applied the same way. Here are your supplies and some gloves!

Now on this Mannequin I was told her hair is completely natural with no treatments on it to prevent my color from working exactly as it would on a human head. But you just never know. I'm going to bet that she will end up with Level 7-8 roots. . . . 8 at the very lightest . . .but Trixie is a mannequin with tricky hair - so we will just have to see.



The 2 back sections we will be working with today. Left will be the high-lift Blond and the right will be the Killerstrands Oil Bleach. Treat each section as its own little quadrant. Don't even think about the rest of the head when you are working on the one section. It will help with your speed. Being able to apply the color quickly is a tremendous advantage, and the only trick to learning that ? ? ?

Is ............PRACTICE................. PRACTICE ................PRACTICE....... !
                        


 Always start with outlining the section - FIRST with the color or bleach.
have color on the brush so you can flip it around and apply color after you have parted off section.
Its a little tricky at first - - but again - practice - practice -- practice which is why

<<<<<< LOOK HERE
Working from the bottom of the quadrant to the top:
in 1/2 inch partings again, I really encourage all of you to purchase a doll head and use her to practice on - this is your new hobby - - take it seriously and purchase the products you need to begin a new hobby 

. .There are about 20 different mannequins - so any thing you want is available. 
If you want me to carry them, please just fill in the FEEDBACK button on store....
 

  Apply the product to the top and bottom  of the parting/roots - at the same time, to enable you to move quickly - which will help you get the job done quickly.


You will notice the partings go up the head within a quadrant till reaching the top.


Now for interest in this project I have decided to apply bleach to the other side back quadrant . . . my absolute favorite 'on-the-scalp' bleach is Killerstrands Oil Bleach, you cannot get Oil Bleach ANYWHERE in the country, currently, but here. I will not do a bleach and tone without it. It leaves the hair in the best condition while also lightening the quickest and leaving the most striking tones. Its available in our store. KILLER COLOR CLINIC, you join our group first for access to the store. We like to remain small - quiet - and personal, there are 3 of us.... to help when you make a purchase with guidance and help on the products you choose.
We are trying to promote HAIR COLOR as a new American Hobby and want to get it off the ground on the right foot.
So lets start the Bleaching side . . . 1st Step? Again OUTLINE the quadrant with the Bleach.

So this section is done the exact

same way as the high lift blonde. I

encourage all of you to practice

the DIP- PART - FLIP & APPLY

TECHNIQUE- once you get it

down, your application will go so

quickly and smoothly you will think

you were a PRO!. Seriously, its not

that hard and once again all it takes

its a little PRACTICE PRACTICE

PRACTICE

There you have it, the 2nd quadrant completed. I hope you got the feeling of working on each quadrant as its own little project...zipping through the slices with DPFA
the faster you get the better your retouch is going to look, so each time you will get a little better and faster.

Time for them to 'cook', is what I like to call it.
Then when doing 1-1 1/2 ' of hair it will take 65 minutes, after that the procedure is always the same...........
Rinse for 5 - 10 minutes with clear luke-cool water.
Follow with INTENSIVE on entire head..........apply more on new color ...............process 30-90 minutes. rinse and Tone with
MATRIX SPV + SPN...10Volume
or
Color Touch 8/1  (darker blond) + 13Volume


I'm always calling the two hobbies the same - - - cooking and hair . I feel hair should be as natural and as organic and as fun as cooking I suppose, that may sound strange but I feel it can be . Can you imagine if you would have been offered a class in "Hair Care" or "HEALTHY HAIR" and then the advanced class was "HAIR COLOR 101 " in High School, what a great and productive Elective that would have been! Can you imagine the amount of people that would want to take the class ?

Any questions? Please leave them in FEEDBACK button in store please. . . Have a great weekend everyone - I love you all . . . .
This is a RE-POSTING of a lost Post from 2007 !

KILLER CHEMIST
Killer chemist

Re-touch - ReTouch Who Needs A Re-touch ? Part 1

 Lots Of Killerstranders do, I know that much !

Re-touch of a Bleach & Tone. From a prior Post that was kind of lost/hidden and not seen from October of 2008. Doesn't matter the information is superb. You see I don't realize what you all struggle with until you speak up. Even if I act surprised when you say it, pay no attention to that. I welcome your questions and comments.

  Been a while since I've tackled a DEMO, thought it was about time, again. Lately I've had a number of my trusty followers purchase the products and get ready for their very first at home re-touch, turning them into a CRIB COLORIST by my rules of engagement!  Congratulations I say to you all and my gift and vote of confidence is this DEMO shot and written mainly for you. 
Some of this is a repeat, but what I have decided this time is to break it down much more slowly, transparently and clearly. I know I have a tendency to skip over parts that I think everyone probably already knows - mistakenly . Which is stupid on my part, because why would "ANY" of this be something you already know - - many of you are coming off of years of going to a Hair Salon in which you sat back, grabbed a magazine and started up with the latest trials & tribulations of your life to your trusted Stylist. Its funny, that's one of the things I miss the most . . . I never got many of the stories I knew about my hundreds of clients finished or completed or at least headed in the right direction. I'm sure they are all just fine!
Today we have Trixie . . . how about this sweetheart, who knew they made mannequins WITH roots! I laughed my ass off when I saw her, yet she actually filled the need most perfectly.  I know of at least a dozen of you that will be tackling this exact project in the coming weeks so I hope this helps.
She has a lot longer root than I would have liked, doing roots this length are easy, as you have so much root to work with. The tricky part is when you have a measly 1/2" or 3/4", you need to be so careful of the overlapping part. (overlapping meaning overlapping the bleach/ blond tint onto the already blond part of the hair - which can cause breakage). Don't worry about this now, I will go into detail about all of these topics this time.
Here are 6 photos of Trixie from every angle, if you can believe I gave her a 4 minute haircut because I just could not stand the way she showed up at my door, that should get a laugh out of you. Once the color is complete, we will see what we can do with the hair cut for a permanent look, how about a POLL ? ? ? At the comments section below why don't we have a little vote for what hair cut you think she should have?

 

How about my make-up job? Swift huh? Like I said, you should have seen, "what showed up" !! Lots of color is better than Peter Pan and Twinkleberry puff colors, trust me!
Now that you have met and seen the project . . . what would be you very first step . . . all the time imagining this is your OWN hair and you are applying this technique to yourself, that's how these DEMO's work.
 
Sectioning, Parting and Preparation
Get the supplies out that you will need to do the SECTIONING and PARTING of your hair. What I really want to impress upon you is how important the sectioning and parting is. Maybe If I relay a story about how they crammed it into our heads at Vidal Sassoon Academy a way back when the teachers were grand, the art was still alive, and at unbelievable levels it will make you see more clearly what I mean.  Every week for the first 12 weeks of the Academy - - we had what was called "State Board Training" . . . we all hated it. It was a process of memorizing rules and regulations that we would NEVER put to use in our actual career and we all knew it, but you had to pass the test or the rest of what we learned would go right out the window. To keep us from going out of our minds . . they would break up the day with sectioning and parting - -  for 12 weeks mind you!  A couple hours of each day our break from reading boring - pointless - out-of-date Rules, was to grab our mannequin heads or work on each other and practice our parting and sectioning. Seems so silly to me now, although in trying to teach the process to you, I now see the importance of it all.
The complaint I get from many of you is the issue of keeping the hair straight and not getting it all mixed up within itself. Clips over tint brush thru combs on top of the bowl of color . . .well you get the picture.
The Answer . . .as it is to many questions of confusion  . . . is ORGANIZATION.  Plain and simple organization and steps. So for Step 1 to the madness called Hair color we shall call it section, parting and Preparation. Today we are getting prepared and Sectioning the Quads. and that's it! Slowly but surely we will get through this so that you will all have the Sassoon Mind set. Repetition is at the base of any great hair colorist - doing things over and over  will have you tuned into what to do automatically. It worked for me and if it works for the best and most famous school in The country, then it will work for you. DO NOT CUT CORNERS - if you do that, it will be your first downfall. 
This is what you need to get out to prepare to do the initial sectioning and parting and prep. Clips - invest in strong ones, they last 2 years and are worth it, they MUST be plastic -metal reacts with bleach in a bad way. Couple cutting combs, couple tail combs and GLEAM. Never color hair with out GLEAM, Argan Oil is even better, but I won't even use it until the price comes down a bit. I found the GLEAM works almost exactly the same.

I always need 8 clips and 4 combs, its just the standard prep tools I grab for - no matter what. As you can hopefully see the combs have different widths and teeth to help with the density of the hair.. if you have super coarse hair you may need the larger combs. I'm battling with some pretty freaky hair hair so this won't be an easy job for me, all the much better to show you the process with. Mannequins hair does not lay down flat like a real persons, among many other challenges, one would never think of!  The more organized you are at the beginning the easier the entire process will go for you. I want you to enjoy coloring your hair, so you look forward to doing it next time, not the other way around.
 
So the sectioning begins with getting your head into QUADRANTS. See the straight part from nose to nape. Then the straight part from ear to ear. Practice this parting not once or twice . . . practice getting it exactly EVEN 15 times! Yep its that important!
The head needs to be divided into 4 EQUAL SQUARES. If you do this and treat each as its own individual section, it will make your life easier AND ( the key to this is ) > it will make you faster in applying the color - the goal for most of you.

 Just different views of the whole "quadrant" idea I'd like to plaster into your brain. See how the whole head is divided into 1/4'ths. The reason for this ? ? ?  So you treat every quadrant as its own individual section, that you will be 'starting' and 'finishing' before going onto the next section.   You are to focus on that 1 section only. Nothing else.  It gives you a beginning -- middle -- and end to your project . .  something nice, when you feel like you don't know what you are doing. Right? Always starting at the bottom of each section FIRST - - working upward going to the top of that section and then completing it. 
Again notice the quadrants pointed out with the TAIL COMBS. Keep your hair in these quadrants at all times during the coloring process.
IT  WILL  MAKE  YOUR  LIFE SO  MUCH  EASIER ............. I  PROMISE

Next is the GLEAM, wonderful - glorious - GLEAM. What a Godsend this has been for me and my clients. . . as it will also be for you.
It depends on the amount of hair you have, but not a whole lot is needed


Just a few squirts if you got the smaller bottle and 2 eyedropper fulls if you got the larger bottle is plenty. The idea is to get the oil everywhere that you plan on applying any color/bleach/lightener at all. Do not worry about putting it everywhere ( if you feel like it) I was just trying to save you a bit of money, I actually put it on the entire head of hair. Its done some wonderful repairing for dry and damaged hair clients of mine. You will see.

  So there you have it, the entire head is gleamed up and read to have color applied. This one back section is all GLEAMED up and ready to go. You will want to begin applying the color  in the back 2 sections as they are the more resistant sections of the hair and are the most stubborn so we want the color on them the longest. Its like God planned it that way, so he gives us the time to get the color on the front sections without destroying the back sections. .

 .  Truly it does work that way! Its more than OK for the color to be on the back 2 sections for 20 minutes longer ( although we don't really 'think' like it, that way) - because of its resistance . . . until we can get to the front two sections and apply that color as fast as possible to those sections. So it all comes out "cooked" properly and done at the same time. 
Just like a great Thanksgiving dinner.
The next POST will be mixing the bleach and applying one section ONLY -- very slowly and just like this post so hopefully you will see in detail the proper manner in which to successfully color your hair. This may also be applied to the exact same process if you are tinting your hair brown or red or whatever color. This is a color RE-Touch and works for ALL COLORS!






 Killer Chemist

 HAPPY NEW YEAR