Bleaching for Rainbows : Dark Hair Yearns to Be Blonde, the Absolute Safest Way - Zero Damage

I Apologize Brunettes But BLONDE'S 

Rule the Air Waves & Social Media

This week a bombardment of you who have very dark hair ( Level 1-4)  just insist on wanting to be Blonde. I get it and I understand but if you will follow my preaching in this very long and laborious Blog - you can be platinum as well

If you were in my chair I would weigh you out . . .  spend 10 minutes trying to talk you into enjoying the glory of dark hair and giving you other tricks you could do, but those tricks are better left to the pro's, remember I like to teach here the color jobs that I believe all of you can handle and also will be thrilled with the results. The side effect is achieving healthy hair at the same time and is my #1 Concern & the THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR.

I also have experienced those who are dead set on it and if I don't help them they will just keep going until they achieve that crown of platinum glory they have dreamed of since being a small child. So this is for those of you who fit into that category...

WITH THE WEALTH OF CELEBS JUMPING IN MAYBE ITS YOUR TURN TOO?

BEFORE YOU DO REMEMBER THIS ONE SENTENCE:

'' HIGH MAINTENANCE'' 
 ( the phrase derived from turning dark hair ---> platinum ) - so not only it is required to receive touch-ups - it can be taxing on your wallet. The only way many can handle the look is by turning into a Crib Colorist and going "FOR IT" ! ! 

I will give you 10 Don'ts in this process and if you decide to go ahead you must read all posts on this Blog regarding subject matter and I promise if every single question is not answered you can text me at the store's number and I will answer it. (if its complicated then you must send your Killer 18 questions with your question - ( just GOOGLE the Killer 18 questions)........

1.  DO NOT USE POWDERED LIGHTENER/BLEACH - - - - which is where I feel all the damage comes from in lightening hair!  There is no need to, cream lighteners exist. I don't like any of them so had to make our own and then I learned to tint it a rich blue/velvet which helps with 1 less bleaching application AND removal of brass/gold. Ours is a Cream & oil based Bleach, not just Cream like everyone else and I use a very special triad of oils, that make the hair shine afterward.
2. NEVER use any bleach/lightener to remove OLD 'previous'  hair color, that is not at all what it is made for, the single biggest mistake Stylists make, to me.  Use a Color Remover.
3. DO NOT try this unless you are fully educated on the process, it is the single most tricky color to get right. I see celebrities all the time with yellow hair and it just makes my skin crawl. 
   
4. Never think 1 Lightening session is going to be all you have to do. If you are a Level 9 VIRGIN hair with Zero color on it, you would be the only one pretty much that can get away with 1 bleaching session. It runs the gamut from 2-12. ! Yep 12 boxes of VANISH means you most likely have 15 boxes of old black hair color on your hair for years and the highest numbers of boxes I sold to a woman like that was 13!  But, you never heard a happier person when complete. This is a one time procedure and you will learn so much, it will never happen again!
5.  If your hair is 2 feet long I would not suggest this procedure at all. Yes, it can be done but most people with that long of hair do not really want to cut it, the shorter hair the better. I mean this one seriously.
6.  Do not think that you must buy 5-8 boxes of VANISH to remove your old hair color, I fully realize how expensive it is. One of your biggest mistakes would be NOT reading about the (1) Shampoo Train  (2) Malibu DDL Lifter Packet (3) Wella's RENEW Color Remover(4) Malibu CPR Remover.........are all valid measures to removing old hair color. The goal? do it as gently as possible. Even going in a pool with chlorine is a nice help - don't over due obviously! 
7. Don't think for a minute if you have thin hair this isn't for you, this IS for you . . . it is what so many celebs with famously thin hair do, ( they just wear $100,000. wigs on the movie screens! ) Truly ! Look at Renee Zellwager, Julianne Hough, Michele Ledger Williams, Charlize Theron....all have naturally thin hair. Lightener kind of blows out the cuticle and makes it appear thicker and it sure will handle and style better! 
8. NEVER -EVER - EVER apply the lightener just willy-nilly all over the head, that is not how it is done, you MUST invest in proper tools and we sell them cheap, on purpose. Divide head in quadrants. Take each section at a time. Purchase a wall mirror ( home depot) where you can see the back of your head while you apply it is weird at first, but you will become a pro sooner rather than later. Think of hair color sort of like cooking.......both are science really. If you follow the rules and do things in the proper order, its a "piece-of-cake"! 
9. DO NOT take short-cuts, if that is what you want to do, this procedure isn't for you. There are NONE allowed. Remember this big first procedure is only done once! The idea is to get all of the hair platinum 1st and then its not that bad.... if you think about it....every 4-8 weeks all you need is 1 of the 2 applications that come in our Kit to retouch roots. I always suggest starting with the pro Kit, I know its expensive but hey, pay for it over 6 months through PAY PAL...........it will assure you have enough product, and most likely will end up with enough to do your roots for another 6 months minimum (depending on many various factors that is - length of hair, texture, porosity, denseness, etc..)

Last but not least my 2 favorite pet peeves: (1) Never EVER apply Bleach to the roots first, it will ALWAYS be the last place you apply it (heat from head makes it process faster than rest of hair - thus the term "hot roots" you may have heard of) Finally, the key to this whole thing working out properly is being sure you have applied the lightener enough times, you want the hair to be yellow free enough, where if you do not want to apply a Toner it will look beautiful as well. But with all the Toners out these days, I can tell you its a whole lotta fun to experiment. So do NOT forget to apply lightener, process 65-70 minutes, remove only by rinsing ( no shampoo) dry and check color. Bleach must be applied on dry hair, so you will see the color after each lightening.

1. 

 

I hope this finds you well and I very much appreciate all the love and prayers everyone has sent me - they are working

But as you can see I am up and roaring again ( just a bit slower and more carefully) - 

 

Watch for new things once again and we have a FACEBOOK GROUP (which I am looking for a moderator for - -  just to work with me - - anyone interested?)

(Please TEXT/or call the store phone number)  

 

and am considering opening the old group up again. Lots of you remain with many questions for me to answer. 

 

Bleachin For Rainbows .............KC
 

Bleach Re-Touch....Re-Touch .....Who Wants A ReTouch - Part 2 (demo)

Re-Touch, Re-Touch . . the story continues
Part 2 also lost in the weight of this Blog... 
 
In our little project I decided to tackle 2 birds, as I get this additional question and problem all the time. It is the single biggest battle and conflict between clients and Hair stylists there is, and that is the battle between hi-lift blond versus bleach as the best and LEAST damaging lightener. I've spoken about it many times, people get all wrapped up in the "NAME". .for some strange reason the word "BLEACH" just plain and simply freaks people out when a hair stylist mentions it.

ALL people are afraid of the word BLEACH. I still haven't nailed the reason - 'why' - but its a universal problem. Some of it has to do with the fact that they have had bleach used on their hair and it was used incorrectly and destroyed their hair. All hair color if used INCORRECTLY can destroy your hair. But, there are just so many precautions set in place now with professional hair color. Do you realize that is the manufacturers main goal ??? to produce a shiny -- rich -- vibrant -- head of hair color - - I know this because a former best friend of mine was the regional VP for a large European Hair Color manufacturer. Remember your hair color is their calling card, that is why they strive to have the best color possible, its not something that one can hide, hair color is right there....IN YOUR FACE!

 But I can tell you that I have seen 50 times more destroyed hair from people using Boxed Hair Color Kits than from clients whom have used the bleach - wrong. So why isn't there a big terror factor with the words Boxed Hair Color Kit ? ? There should be, there really should be. ..


Today we will go into applying the high lift blonde on one quadrant in the proper mannerr . . . and then applying Killerstrands Oil Bleach  (so gentle and moisturizing) to the right back quadrant. 

This way we can see twice how to apply a re-touch. . . showing you no matter what color or product you are using a re-touch is a re-touch and its all applied the same way. Here are your supplies and some gloves!

Now on this Mannequin I was told her hair is completely natural with no treatments on it to prevent my color from working exactly as it would on a human head. But you just never know. I'm going to bet that she will end up with Level 7-8 roots. . . . 8 at the very lightest . . .but Trixie is a mannequin with tricky hair - so we will just have to see.



The 2 back sections we will be working with today. Left will be the high-lift Blond and the right will be the Killerstrands Oil Bleach. Treat each section as its own little quadrant. Don't even think about the rest of the head when you are working on the one section. It will help with your speed. Being able to apply the color quickly is a tremendous advantage, and the only trick to learning that ? ? ?

Is ............PRACTICE................. PRACTICE ................PRACTICE....... !
                        


 Always start with outlining the section - FIRST with the color or bleach.
have color on the brush so you can flip it around and apply color after you have parted off section.
Its a little tricky at first - - but again - practice - practice -- practice which is why

<<<<<< LOOK HERE
Working from the bottom of the quadrant to the top:
in 1/2 inch partings again, I really encourage all of you to purchase a doll head and use her to practice on - this is your new hobby - - take it seriously and purchase the products you need to begin a new hobby 

. .There are about 20 different mannequins - so any thing you want is available. 
If you want me to carry them, please just fill in the FEEDBACK button on store....
 

  Apply the product to the top and bottom  of the parting/roots - at the same time, to enable you to move quickly - which will help you get the job done quickly.


You will notice the partings go up the head within a quadrant till reaching the top.


Now for interest in this project I have decided to apply bleach to the other side back quadrant . . . my absolute favorite 'on-the-scalp' bleach is Killerstrands Oil Bleach, you cannot get Oil Bleach ANYWHERE in the country, currently, but here. I will not do a bleach and tone without it. It leaves the hair in the best condition while also lightening the quickest and leaving the most striking tones. Its available in our store. KILLER COLOR CLINIC, you join our group first for access to the store. We like to remain small - quiet - and personal, there are 3 of us.... to help when you make a purchase with guidance and help on the products you choose.
We are trying to promote HAIR COLOR as a new American Hobby and want to get it off the ground on the right foot.
So lets start the Bleaching side . . . 1st Step? Again OUTLINE the quadrant with the Bleach.

So this section is done the exact

same way as the high lift blonde. I

encourage all of you to practice

the DIP- PART - FLIP & APPLY

TECHNIQUE- once you get it

down, your application will go so

quickly and smoothly you will think

you were a PRO!. Seriously, its not

that hard and once again all it takes

its a little PRACTICE PRACTICE

PRACTICE

There you have it, the 2nd quadrant completed. I hope you got the feeling of working on each quadrant as its own little project...zipping through the slices with DPFA
the faster you get the better your retouch is going to look, so each time you will get a little better and faster.

Time for them to 'cook', is what I like to call it.
Then when doing 1-1 1/2 ' of hair it will take 65 minutes, after that the procedure is always the same...........
Rinse for 5 - 10 minutes with clear luke-cool water.
Follow with INTENSIVE on entire head..........apply more on new color ...............process 30-90 minutes. rinse and Tone with
MATRIX SPV + SPN...10Volume
or
Color Touch 8/1  (darker blond) + 13Volume


I'm always calling the two hobbies the same - - - cooking and hair . I feel hair should be as natural and as organic and as fun as cooking I suppose, that may sound strange but I feel it can be . Can you imagine if you would have been offered a class in "Hair Care" or "HEALTHY HAIR" and then the advanced class was "HAIR COLOR 101 " in High School, what a great and productive Elective that would have been! Can you imagine the amount of people that would want to take the class ?

Any questions? Please leave them in FEEDBACK button in store please. . . Have a great weekend everyone - I love you all . . . .
This is a RE-POSTING of a lost Post from 2007 !

KILLER CHEMIST
Killer chemist