January 2, 2015

Bleach for the Stars (more about the best lightener there is)

I have spoken of the thrill I get when bleaching a head of hair the most magnificent of colors in the world. . . platinum . . . and then toned with a delicate pastel color, lately, there are so many to choose from. There is the thrill a hair color artist achieves when this has been done perfectly. Which is why I say don't count the world of "bleach" out until you learn and master it the proper way. There are a list of rules that you must follow to perform either the OIL BLEACH or the off-the-scalp bleach application properly - once complete you will be over-the-moon happy with yourself..The hair can look absolutely spectacular which doesn't take much studying at all. 

So many turn their backs to bleaching after one bad experience when it is, unfortunately, just the learning curve of a complex coloring product. Many try to perform miracles by lifting very dark (black) hair and using very high Volume developer and not taking the proper steps. Many will lighten the base first, when lightening the base should be LAST! Many try to lighten hair without using Oil bleach which is the wrong move, you MUST use an Oil Bleach Kit.

Bleach products are highly alkaline and therefore need to be neutralized with a shampoo or a product like INTENSIVE which has an acid pH value, before and after the toner is applied. By taking this extra step you will be able to achieve "EVEN" color and healthy hair. One more consideration that is overlooked is any styling products with a high "bad" alcohol content in the formula (which is 'denatured alcohol'). That alcohol can have a bad effect on the lasting properties of the Toner (which in pastels is so important).

Do not use any type of accelerators or heaters when using bleach, all containers should have the warning NO TO USE HEAT. If you expose hair with bleach on it to penetrating heat without any moisturizer on it, the hair may crack(break). Some Stylists use a dryer as a way to "by time" if they are running behind, or they are just so backed up they don't know what else to do. If you are a stylists and you are reading this in your learning stages.....just put the client in a chair hand them a magazine or I-PAD and apologize for running late, you are better off shampooing the bleach out of the hair and putting a deep conditioner or an oil treatment, than sticking them under the absolute worst thing you could possibly choose...........HEAT!  Heat & bleach are a big giant NO !

Bleach is the opposite of coloring where application is concerned. Bleach applications do not like air penetration and therefore the bleach should be applied thickly. The roots have to be well covered , and has the effect of retaining natural heat from the scalp, making quicker and smoother lifting action.

Never is there a need to apply higher than 20 Volume developer directly to the scalp, only in the rarest of occasions (Level 1 or 2 hair going blond ) and if it is then it absolutely MUST be mixed with Oil lightener. No exceptions. Be sure to bush hair lightly and be sure no metal of any type (glitter,etc.) is in the hair as that reacts horribly with bleach and we wouldn't want that to be the reason you had to stop the process. A close inspection of the hair & scalp is very important to reassure yourself that all is well before you proceed.

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