January 11, 2015
Color Theory (Sounds Boring, I kno) 100% Necessary To Become Successful Crib Colorist
60% - 80% of You Come To Killerstrands In An Attempt At Fixing A Botched Hair Coloring Experience
Therefore I feel its necessary for me to teach you the tools to correct those disasters, otherwise, why be here? ! So as much as it sounds boring, Color Theory and understanding : the basics of it, is simply mandatory. It gives you the tools to be able to understand how to fix any mess on your own. What a wonderful tool for this new hobby of home hair coloring and becoming a Crib Colorist.
Primary colors are Blue, Red & Yellow and are the basic colors that make up every hair color out there (except, of course, silver/white) and that is in the order of their size of the molecule (or atomic weight - now, don't leave because I said 'atomic'....wait, hear me out)...Understanding the order and size of the primary colors shows you what happens during the lightening process when going from Level 1(black) to Level 12 (Platinum). So many of us go lighter, that is the way of the world for some reason.
When lightening, Blue is the only 'cool' primary color. Most people lean towards wanting more of a 'cool' tone to hair. I mean warm means Brass, Blorange, Gold, Reds. No one wants the first 3 that's for sure and the only way you want red, is if your goal is red hair! When Blue is added to any primary, secondary or tertiary color is is dominant. The new color will be cool....again....good. Its molecular weight (or pigment size) is the largest and BECAUSE of this, it is closest to the cuticle. Why is this bad? Because being the largest pigment means when you begin to lighten hair (even a little bit) it will be the color that is closest to the cuticle and that damn sure means it will leave FIRST! If it leaves first, there goes that 'cool' hue that we all need so much to give our hair that 'cool' tint we talked about earlier. When the hair is oxidized by the ammonia in hair color the hair expands almost immediately, the blue molecule escapes and poof no more 'cool'.
Next is Red, it is also difficult to remove and lastly the yellow which is buried deep down in the hair strand.....the most difficult of all to remove and why so many of you get stuck at Blorange (blorange is the mix of red & yellow: so you see why you get stuck there?) Gold & Brass. The yellow molecule is buried so damn deep, it pretty much always takes bleach to be powerful enough to get it out of that hair strand. See????????
When all 3 colors are in hair in equal proportions you achieve a completely NEUTRAL Blonde or Brown. You know how we all wonder why we can't have like hair like Jennifer Anniston? That is hair that has equal proportions of red, blue & yellow molecules in her hair, there are VERY FEW people that happen to be this lucky. How do I know? I colored over 15,000 heads of hair (yep, my assistants kept track). Do you know how rarely I would have someone in the chair that was a breeze to lighten? Not even once a month. That is rare.
Secondary colors are made when you mix 2 primary colors. You mix red & Blue you make Violet. That is a secondary color. If you add the opposite of any secondary color to a hair color you are mixing you will neutralize it. For example:
If you have a bigger yellow molecule and brass has become your problem.............look across that color wheel . What color is opposite of yellow (brass) on the color wheel ? Violet...........right? ! Add Violet and you will help cancel out yellow as it is directly across from it on the color wheel. That is why you see so many violet colored shampoos including our own (BOOST & BURST - Violet Pilot).
Now, I am hoping from that you will be able to understand and pick-out any color you need to neutralize an annoying one you have in your hair color. So brass is yellow, across from yellow is Violet.
Blorange which I refer to a lot, because it is indeed a very common problem. We have calculated that Blorange is both Yellow & Orange cast that would be in your hair ....what colors would you use to counteract Blorange? Blue & Violet (check out the wheel).
Understanding these basic theories is mandatory if you want to take control over correcting your hair color or planning your hair color and having positive results.