Fight Color-Fade ( Learn Why Color Application is Uneven? ? ?) - - the POWER of pH !

 Fight Color-Fade ! Prolong Hair Color With the Power of pH

pH value is between 0 and 14, a pH value of 7.0 is considered neutral; all values below neutral are acidic and all values above are alkaline. An acidic solution has a positive electrical charge (+), and an alkaline solution has a negative electrical charge (-).

Healthy Hair Vs. Damaged Hair
Normal, healthy hair has a pH value of between 4.5 and 5.5 and is therefore considered acidic. Hair in this state will be positively charged (+) and has a compact cuticle structure. 

The outside cuticle layer is closed and smooth, promoting a natural, healthy shine. The internal cortex is protected, and moisture levels are maintained, ensuring good strength and elasticity. 
Healthy hair has even, normal porosity and provides a good base for chemical services.... therefore your goal should ALWAYS be to have the healthiest HAIR ... POSSIBLE.
 I know it sounds odd, but to cure and repair hair you must replace lipids. The ultimate way to replace lipids is to apply pure high quality oils. Which is why I am always shouting the advantages of GLEAM, our own pure oils from nature product. . . . . .Therefore : Apply Gleam - sleep with it in the hair or even better is to use the Travel Bonnet Hair Dryer.
 
Damaged hair has a pH value above 7.0 and is negatively charged (-). 
The cuticle layer is raised with a dull/matt surface. 
The raised cuticle layer can catch, resulting in tangled hair with a high susceptibility to mechanical damage – caused by combing or other external influences. In addition, the cortex will be exposed to further damage, in danger of losing essential moisture and becoming dry or brittle. 
( Below is a sentence that may apply to all the questions I receive about "uneven hair color application" . . . .)
Damaged hair will be very porous and provides a poor surface for chemical treatments, with potentially uneven results.

I have this problem sometimes because I have always had porous hair, you 'can' be born with it, or you can 'create it'  - - - but it can be solved by a vigorous regimen of deep over-nite hair masks....GLEAM OIL Treatments........& laying off the heat appliances. 

(I'm talking to myself here as well so don't think things are lovely & rosey here at Killerstrands headquarters.... just because I know how to fix and color hair. Sometimes I get lazy ( right now) and then boom my hair reverts back to its shitty/lousy /'natural' texture - which is why I feel I have learned how to fix others hair.  My virgin texture is crap, so it needs care all the damn time. 

 I have to keep up the routine day in and day out.....AND DON'T THINK i DON'T CARE ABOUT THE PRICE OF ALL THIS STUFF BECAUSE I ... DO ! !

pH and Products
 As the majority of hair products are 'supposed to be' a solution, and therefore have a pH value, it follows that this can or cannot influence the condition of hair. I encourage everyone to keep an eye out for pH Value's on products, its the most important facts that should be printed on the bottle - yet it rarely is.

Chemical treatments, such as a lightener, perms or colors, are deliberately alkaline, or have a pH value higher than the hair’s natural value. This causes the cuticle layer to open up, allowing the product to enter the inner hair structure. It is therefore essential to thoroughly rinse the hair following a chemical process and apply a good re-structuring conditioner         ( INTENSIVE & THRIVEN )

Whereas, hair care products are predominantly acidic, and have an astringent effect on the hair, closing the cuticle layer. Shampoos will typically have a pH value close to the hair’s natural level, promoting gentle cleansing. Conditioners and treatments however, have a higher acid value, helping to return damaged, hair back to a normal, healthy condition.
When hair is colored, the pH increases from an optimum value of 4.5 – making it more alkaline and during color development, the outer and inner hair structure is loosened up in order for color pigments to penetrate the hair. For this reason a conditioner or treatment after a color service helps to reset the hair to the optimum pH value of 4.5.

What is the pH of the Hair and Scalp?

Maintaining the correct pH value of the hair & scalp is essential for the overall health of hair. Hair products can control the pH of hair.
What is Neutral pH?
A pH of 7 is chemically neutral. Hair care products with a pH value in between 3.5 and 5.5 are considered beneficial for hair care products.
Variations in pH
When pH value drops below 6.0 the cuticle layer contracts and tightens. A mild acidic conditioner (lower than pH 7) can help to add shine to the hair, as a smooth surface is able to reflect more light; strong acids will however damage the hair. Acid conditioners should not be used when red/orange tones have been added to the hair, instead use a color-specific care range.
When pH value becomes more alkaline (above 7.0) the cuticle layer softens and expands like a pinecone. This is necessary as part of the coloring process in order to deposit pigments within the hair structure, however if the pH becomes too alkali, damage will occur. Also many form products make use of the effect of alkali pH values on hair.
Hair with a very alkaline, porous structure will not retain color effectively. In this instance the cuticle will fail to hold the new pigments, which will ultimately rinse out prematurely.
You can help prevent damage and keep the hair looking fantastic and pH balanced.

In this post we explore how to understand and care for, the typical range of hair and scalp types.

The sebaceous gland plays an important role in determining hair and scalp type. The production of sebum is a natural process that adds strength and lustre to the hair strand. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress and drugs and the aging process can all influence production. Salon products are designed specifically to compliment individual needs and work toward producing strong, healthy, naturally beautiful hair. Hair and Scalp types fall into the following broad categories:

Oily
Over-active sebaceous glands produce an excess quantity of sebum, which can make hair limp and lank. This may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, which can result in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair, hence is more susceptible to excess oil.

High quality - SULFATE-FREE shampoos cleanse without stripping the hair of essential moisture and nutrients.

Dry
Dry hair looks dull and lifeless and is also more susceptible to breakage. Dry hair can only be stretched 15% of its overall length before breaking, while healthy hair can be stretched up to twice this amount, more when wet! A common cause of dry hair is dehydration; water retention can measure between 4 and 13% of overall hair volume.

A change in lifestyle can make all the difference, and there are many products available to help nourish the cortex and smooth cuticles...beginning with GLEAM. Gleam is a little bottle of magic if you ask me - it has fixed more problems on my clients than any other 1 product we carry. It maddens me that there are so many "copy-cat" oils out there, that everyone thinks all OILS are the same. You can't find an oil on the market place that does not have silicone in it, but GLEAM has none of that type of thing , it is 100% Oils from Nature!

Normal Hair
Normal hair is shiny, supple and good looking and is the result of a well-balanced, healthy lifestyle, combined with good hair care using the right products.

Mixed Condition
Over-active sebaceous glands and poor scalp condition may create a glut of sebum; this can be absorbed back into the scalp, preventing essential oils from traveling the length of the hair strand. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of Pityriasis steatoides.

Pityriasis steatoides is more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp to the scalp in crusts. When accompanied by redness and inflammation the medical term is seborrheic dermatitis, which I have seen GLEAM cure more than a dozen times, along with the Scalp Scrub and the Malibu Scalp treatment pack.

. Mixed condition hair types have dry, frizzy ends that are prone to breaking, with oily roots. In this scenario application techniques are very important when applying products to ensure the problem area is targeted. 

Killerstrands Unique Direction On Repairing Damaged (& Thinning) Hair (Including Secret Supplement Info)

Its been a very long time since I have spoken about my completely unique and weird method of repairing, damaged, fried & thinning hair on females AND males. Its unique but I have had in place since I was began in the Salon ( Malibu) 15 years ago. There are thousands of Malibu people who follow this program and my thought was to keep it between us at first. I have slowly decided to open up and share it with everyone - because as I have said before ..."what good is wonderful knowledge, if you don't educate others with it"...which was my theory for sharing all my education with YOU - the public on this Blog.

I have a 2 step theory for recovering damaged, thinning hair ... it was an accidental discovery but it has changed thousands of people's hair including my own & my daughters and half of Malibu's. Approx. 80% of you will have changed hair in a matter of weeks. I suggest using both steps for 90 days, you will know then........ how it works for you.

STEP 1 is THRIVEN
Which is a DEEP conditioner like no other. This conditioner should heal damaged hair like no other, there are 2 things different than any other : their consistency and the fact that the trick is leaving it on the hair overnight (or daytime for 7-8 hours). 

Application: Shampoo hair w/ sulfate-free shampoo, towel dry, apply THRIVEN + massage in. Clip up hair...cover w/ plastic cap, process for 7-8 hours. In morning - just RINSE-RINSE-RINSE. Rinse 3X longer than normal, until most of Thriven is out and style.

STEP 2 is ENSURE 
(I've called it the SECRET SUPPLEMENT)

(the regular or Protein version is best)  

There are no substitutions for this, it must be the authentic version which btw is available worldwide.  Drink 1 everyday continuously for 90 days, you will see the results by then. I drink 2 but mainly because of my illness. My hair is nearly to my waist and it is thick as Hell. . .  which has never happened to me not even when I was young ! So this 2 step process has worked beyond belief for me and my daughter. Some people worry about the calories and think that this drink puts on weight which for me and all the people I have introduced this to has NEVER happened.

This trick was stumbled upon purely by accident, we have family friends who are Olympians and they drink it everyday, it helps them perform and cures jet lag they said. My daughter began drinking it 15 years ago and her hair went from scraggly thin to thick and beautiful. I had handed her a jar of THRIVEN the month before....The next time I colored her hair I asked her what she was doing that was different besides deep conditioning - she actually hadn't even realized what a change had happened (kids ! ! !). 

So I grilled her and she relayed the story from the Olympians ! The minute she left I drove to Target and bought a couple months worth, I wanted to see if it would work for me, I had just finished radiation and there was not much hair left ! In 30 days after applying THRIVEN 2X weekly (that is what she was doing) ....I began drinking 1 ENSURE and used it for my breakfast as do most people. I could feel a substantial difference and at the end of 90 days my  hair was a whole new beast. I was blown away and continue to be blown away today !

There are no substitutions for this, it must be the authentic version which btw is available worldwide. The bottles come in a 6-pack,  the best price I can find is purchasing directly from ABBOTT pharmaceutical online, purchasing enough gets you free shipping and it comes direct to your home - or Target. I will tell you almost everyone I know drinks the MILK CHOCOLATE, but there are other flavors. People ask me all the time if there are any substitutions and when we began many people (for different reasons) tried other brands and other types of vitamin drinks. Not ONE of them gave the results that ENSURE does, I still encourage you to try this program the exact way I have said !

I will give anyone wanting to try the program a 20% Discount on THRIVEN for 1 week which is Feb. 20 - Feb. 27, 2017. 
Code: ThickLongHair

I really encourage anyone with hair health or thinning problems to give this protocol a shot, you have nothing to lose and I will tell you that once Ensure is chilled it takes like a cool chocolate milk shake. Think about it, it is liquid Vitamins that are absorbed in the blood so MUCH FASTER than a pill or anything else out there. Just think if you are one of the 80% that this program works for.........you could have a whole new head of hair, like we all do !

KC

The End is Split, My Dear.......You should Give a Damn !

Split Ends ....  & the Silly Shampoo That Leads You To Believe everyone Has Been Working At The "Wrong-End-Of-The-Hair"...

Maybe they have :D

Heidi Klum is on this new TV commercial ??....... telling us that every hair product manufacturer has been working on the 'wrong' end of the hair....meaning the ends. 
I can tell you from experience that if you do not work on the ends especially for 'movie hair' like hers ... your hair will look like shit, my dear. I tell you I have been involved in so many of these commercials , yes, a while ago, but they haven't changed much - yet now they are lying even more) ! 

Still it just amazes how much these actresses lie through their teeth. I mean I just want one of them to stand up and say I would never use that drugstore crap. They are all so paranoid about their hair. So I call, BS, Miss Klum. From my sources she has been paid as little as $1 million dollars to say those words ( which took her maximum 8 hours and more like 4-6) ...and as much as $4 million. Do you believe her now?
Money is what talks here.
There is not 1 Hollywood Celebrity...........not Jennifer Garner, not Tina Fey, not who's that girl married to Ryan Reynolds....NOT 1 of them who has their bodyguards drive down to the local CVS and asks them to pick up a box of Color.....COME ON you do not believe them  do you??? 
                                                    
Split Ends
Now this is a subject there is not a lot of info on - there truly isn't because it is pretty simple. I have seen a few commercials that would have you believe shampoo can prevent split ends, I also need to put my 2 cents in on that. The only way to deal with them is too cut the damn things off. There is this silly commercial that says split ends can be taken care of by shampoo --  shampoo is on your hair for what 2-3 minutes - maybe, max ? Something on your hair for 'minutes' cannot solve a whole lotta             anything, do not fall for that type of thing, ever. 
                                                                                                                " I don't need to give a damn...!"

Split ends occur ...
when the protective layer of the cuticle is removed from the tip of the strand. As a result, the hair splits into two or three strands, each two to three centimeters long, at its tip.

Some of the causes of split ends?

• no haircuts
• hair being cut with a razor
• having fine hair
• hot tools
• putting hair back with cheap & damaging elastics
• and the number 1 cause today???  Flat Irons

The ways to prevent split ends? Get your hair trimmed regularly, by regularly I mean ...every 6-8 weeks for shorter hair - every 10-12 weeks for long hair. With the way split ends are formed, I had certain clients that just had them way more than others. I started with oils many many years before Argan Oil appeared..........which seemed to sway the mind of every hair care buyer in the world. 

In my own opinion I have tried cheap oils... Hell 15 years ago I was trying sunflower oil from home and while it seemed to mask the split ends somewhat - when I began playing around with oils that are heavy in Vitamins and more rare - that is when the real changes started happening. Those people of Morocco must absolutely love the United States. There are other oils that work OK, but the truly miraculous results come from finer oils and oils that are worn in a braid or bun over night. 

Killerstrands Gleam and is one of our Top Sellers for more than 10 years !!! 10 years oils have been around in Malibu, California. You MUST try Gleam, 1 small bottle will give you the perfect tester so you can see the magic this one little Oil produces.

You need to cut split ends off as soon as you notice them . . . they will just keep splitting up the hair strand and if you didn't want your hair cut, you are going to be super sad when it continues splitting up that strand shorter and shorter. Think about your regular maintenance routine and try to identify why your hair is splitting. Hopefully you will notice what is the reason, the list is pretty defining.

Do you believe Miss Klum now?
Please look at every celeb that does TV commercials and know their paycheck is minimum $1 million. That is all that possesses them and frankly I have had my entire close family torn apart due to money and the desire to have more than the sibling next to them. I don't respect any celeb that does that and you shouldn't either.  my kids and I have always loved and respected Reece Witherspoon and most recently we saw her in one of these despicable ads. There is an actor I became friends with years ago and many times he would get offered 1-4 million dollars to sell something he didn't believe in and all of it could be made in 1 day. 

He's never been able to turn them down.....he's worth millions, I mean how many millions is enough to make you at least say no to  something you don't believe in and know that people will buy this hair product, even though you wouldn't use it in a million years?

I still believe that Gleam and a haircut 6 times a year on the low end and every 6 weeks on the high is the magical mystery tour ride to no split ends                 

90% Use Hair Conditioners .... Yet Nearly 75% Say Hair Is Damaged

I would guess most of you have thought at one time or another that the health of your hair seems to be mimicking the way you feel...am I right? The state of your health, stress or worry, dieting, sleep patterns, pregnancies, menstrual cycle, long and short term illnesses, fevers, and very importantly, the drugs, vitamins and minerals you take to counteract them all. Every one of these can affect your hair.
Hair is super sensitive to internal changes. Your hair is the second fastest growing cell in your body, the fastest being your intestinal cells. However, unlike your intestines, hair is a non-essential tissue. It always makes me smile at the fact that the hair is a non-necessary part of the body...........YET.............everyone cares more about "IT" than any other tissue !

Psychologically it is very important, but physically, you could easily survive without it. Your metabolism doesn’t prioritize your hairs needs, but instead aims to keep your essential tissues functioning first and foremost.Which therefore means. . .your hair is usually the first to suffer from any bodily upset, and also the last to benefit from an improvement.

What's the Damage?

More than 90% of women use conditioners but nearly 75 percent say their hair is damaged. 

What is wrong with this picture? 
The Conditioners don't work?
Why do you feel your hair is damaged, when almost all of you are using Conditioners.
I would love a lot of feedback on this question....please answer in the comments section below so I can begin to address your concerns.  

These numbers by Marie Claire magazine are no surprize to me...its something I have been working to combat for years, its just very hard when you feel and think you are about the only one that is trying to combat this issue. But I trudge on...now through this method, maybe just maybe I will reach the kind of numbers I hoped to before.

The health of your hair has always been my main concern. Before anyone had heard of trying to have 'healthy hair' I had hair care cards printed up to give my clients after their first appointment with me - explaining my theory of hair care many of them were shocked that I even cared. There has never been the proper education in hair health, there aren't even any decent books written on the subject in print so its understandable that the general public truly has no idea where to start to have healthy hair.

The gap between the 90% of women that use conditioners..and the 75% that say their hair is damaged can be lessened ....but ONLY if their hair regimen is changed ...obviously the present one is not working.
Although a case in point is a current client consultation I have and this has happened many times before says to me her "hair is damaged". Then I see photos of her hair and her hair looks very healthy to me. When asked , "why she thinks her hair is damaged" , she replies well I have colored it, doesn't that make it damaged ? The answer to that is a big giant NO.  Of course there are many who have colored their hair and it IS damaged but the actual answer to that question is solved by the touch,the color, the porosity and the shine of it. You CAN use Crap-In-A-Box Hair Color and have healthy hair.....Now don't go run out and buy it, because that is usually a Level 5 ..... who wants to be a Level 5....and you apply a pH balancer after the application.

the survey in Marie Claire 
also notes that 79% of women
 are on a mission to solve
 their damaged hair problem

So many of the problems and complaints I hear are preventable I wish I had a daily television show and could review these methods . . because most of them are 100% preventable. Not all and yes there are some legitimate problems out there. . . but nowhere near the 45 million women that are currently suffering. If my 10 steps would be followed I can guarantee there would AT least be 1/2 that many suffering from hair loss - thinning  and bad damage....and I would be much more accurate if I quoted the number 75% ! That is a significant amount of people that would be cured and would be living a much happier and healthier life.

Lets go over a couple steps for review. When trying anything new {as I have to try this new diet a Holistic Educator has given me this past week} I will try it for 90 -120 days, if I see no results by then, it may not work for me. I think you should follow my lead, it always works

#1 Nutrition........You must change this category & it is not about eliminating food it is about adding the proper foods to make sure you are getting proper nutrition to keep the hair cycle from dying out and fading away. Eat breakfast every single day and eat protein for breakfast - eat broccoli at least 4 out of 7 days...... an apple every single day / a handful of almonds every single day and the Secret Supplement - Protein is a must, and the egg white is the perfect protein for your hair's health. Proteins are used to build tissue cells, including the cells of your hair, skin and nails. 80-85% of your hair is composed of a protein called keratin. Dietary proteins are your hairs’ building blocks - they make your hair strong and help keep it in its growing phase

#2. Water......If you cannot drink the water out of your tap.....then it is too lousy for your hair as well. You need to invest in a shower filter for the shower you use. You can get them for $50. up to $150.....Aquasana seems to be the most popular - scope them out on the web...for a good price - you will need filters and I'm telling you this makes a big difference in skin and hair.!

#3. Shampoo . . . . This is soooooooo important, please throw away all your old crappy shampoos that are not sulfate-free. I have been touting this horrible ingredient for years and finally the shampoo companies are all coming out with a "sulfate-free' model - which makes my job so much easier

Your hair is composed primarily of protein

#4. Stress-Free Daily life > you will probably chuckle at this one, like oh sure that's easy to do.. When people used to pay money to the clinic to become a 30 or 90 day client, they were required to follow all 10 steps, I know they never DO follow all of them but I pray they follow the most they can handle. This step requires 2 activities I tell them are imperative...if you are gun-ho are repairing your hair, do both of these - you won't believe the improvement.

1. #1 Yoga for 35-45 minutes 3 or 4 days per week- the UPSIDE DOWN factor is what helps this the most


2. Walking 35-45 minutes 3-4 days per week with NO music and No other people - ALONE -> absolutely NO electronics allowed

5.Water . Must drink at least 1 quart of WATER every day. Water energizes the root of the hair strand and that is where the decision and the future of your hair lies....IN THE ROOT. People don't realize this but each individual hair is "terminal"  it lives on your head from 2-4 years, then dies and sheds. Then there is a rest pattern before another hair strand is formed, don't you want that new hair strand to be strong and virile. It needs lots of water to begin its new life.

The only way to turn health starved hair into luxurious hair is by drastic measures...it CAN be done....my old clients used to do it all the time.

6.)  Use Spray Leave-in Conditioner after Shampoo - I happen to believe in a different system than most as far as shampoo / conditioner.  I don't believe in a daily conditioner that is heavy and creamy....I believe in a very light spray-in Conditioner- such SOMA Leave-IN Conditioner- following your sulfate-free shampoo. That way your hair is not weighed down, and is light, loose & free to blow in the wind on YOUR WALK !!! see above!

7.)  UV Protection - Your hair can burn, just like your skin. This makes it more prone to splitting and further damage. If you sit in the sun for a prolonged period of time, protect your hair with a  leave-in protector or wear a hat.


The hair cuticle protects your hair from damage

8.) Stay away from Hot Tools. Such as flat irons, or what many of you call straighteners. Curling Irons, Crimping irons all tools that develop a quick Style by frying the Hell out of your hair. These tools, might as well say on the box: This tool will break off 1/2 of your hair if used at the higher temperatures.....which everyone does OR if you repeat the same action on the same section of hair. How many of you repeat the curling or straightening action on the exact same section of hair????  Is every single persons hand raising?........because it should be ! ! !

 I don't expect everyone to be a martyr, I have recently added my favorite Blow Dryer to the store,we all want to have nicely styled hair .... if at least for going on a date, a wedding, a party, any special event....some like to style their hair every day ..... when you do....  the least harmful hot tool for your hair is a blow dryer and a round or half-round brush. So please use those if you absolutely don't like to leave the house without some style.

Remember this question I'd like to see answers for:

Why do you feel your hair is damaged, when almost all of you are using Conditioners. I would love a lot of feedback on this question....please answer in the comments section below so I can begin to address your concerns ??

10,000HEADS (Healthy Hair Regimen) 10th Year Anniversary: Healthy Hair Never Goes Out of Style

Noting that it has been a little over the 16th year since I came up with the 10,000 Heads protocol, I felt the need to pay homage to its inception. The one and only reason the whole thing began? I just saw way too many young girls coming into the Salon with hair thinning/loss, I didn’t point it out to them, but I decided firmly I needed to try to figure out what it was.
The beginning. . . .
I made a turn off the path I was on working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overloaded book of clients, there was not enough of me to go around. The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ...I came down with a rare bone disease pushing me into a year worth of treatments, I wouldn't wish on anyone. In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 of my hair. Which was an epiphany to me that I was supposed to be working on the hair loss issue, I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's).
There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. Think about it, men’s hair loss starts at the 2 temples (we call them bowling alleys) and on the very tip top of their head. Many times its a loved one who notices it first. As it progresses the hair loss of the alleys spreads till it meets up with the top of the head. They have this standard Norwood Chart {which really needs updating} depicting it :


Women . . . I’m pretty sure most women would agree we don’t a have it quite so bad, because for us . . . its an all over loss, gradually. Mostly when it began -- it started a year or two before you noticed it. We are always losing hair  - - and that is completely normal ( a single hairs lifespan is 2-5 years on your head – it falls off and then it either does or does NOT replace itself ).  500 hairs per day is normal. . but when it turns to 700 then gradually to 900, you simply don’t notice it. I tell women this, so they don’t think it just started all of a sudden one day….it just doesn’t work that way. Many times you will notice the size of your pony tail being less thick than normal . . . and why? Because women lose hair gradually all over the entire head, instead of specific spots as the men do, which makes the way you tackle the problem completely different.Hair growth is also tied to hormones, and the 2 sexes have different hormones. When I began to dig into this problem the biggest difference I noticed, was how much research had been done in the area of men's hair loss and how little had been done on women’s. Just didn’t seem fair, although until lately no one was complaining of hair loss at a young age on the female side. Now it is out of control and someone needed an answer. I hated when people would sit in my chair with this complaint and I had nothing to offer them, people take their hair – very very seriously.

I had answers for my male clients ( Propecia, Rogaine & Cardio) and nothing for the females. Plus I was having more women with the complaint than men. I had to do something.
In order to properly figure this out I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology. I spent the next 2 years, studying / apprenticing under a cosmetic chemist. That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women. I wanted to understand what every single ingredient was, what its chemical make-up is and how it works on the body. The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when. Better late than never.

10,000HEADS started with 3 steps then went to 20. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked synergistically. In other words; each step depends on another, in order for all to work to their potential. Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, the first 90 days. It depends where your results are at, that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitment. There is an end!
Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in today's world. All the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see are out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV. They wouldn’t be on infomercials at 3 in the morning, because to be perfectly honest- its against the law to advertise false claims. I know this, my claims are not false. What my program is………is a 14 step program you must try for ONLY 90 days to have an 80-90% chance your hair will be wonderful. My own hair is thicker and longer than it ever has been in my entire lifetime.

I promise you, solving hair loss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" and profits.
I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the female hair loss, that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my own hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well.Can you imagine the day ( and it will come) when …….by taking 1 pill a day we would all have Jennifer Anniston hair, or even better….for life? How much would you pay for that?  

There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. Which is what all these hair loss products out there EXIST on {just you trying it once to see if by a chance in Hell that it worked}. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in, the owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red. It just blew me away, could not figure out how she existed there…. she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.Why?
Why, is what I asked over and over and over.  It took me a full year to figure out.
She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business, it was in Malibu and we had a LOT of tourist walk-in traffic…people wanted to say they got their hair “cut/colored in Malibu”….I had to move chairs it used to upset me so much. It was just a terrible representation of southern California hair or hair stylists in general . The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!
Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers' out there. The 10,000HEADS Protocol is your answer when everything else fails. It works, and no, it’s not easy, it takes commitment & work… BUT it has a 81-89% success rate (on androgenetic alopecia or temporary hair loss – there are many different types – this is the most common). That is a fairly high number, to most.
I’ve settled into 14 steps to the 10,000HEADS HAIR LOSS Protocol for Females, now…You start from Step 14 as the most important and go up….nothing will improve if you don’t do Step 14,13,12 and 11. Those are mandatory, then as you add the others . .better the results  . . . get. I dare you.


To me . . . if you want thick gorgeous hair and other methods have not worked, 10,000 HEADS WILL WORK, but, you must commit to at least 6 Steps : half the program.. But that’s me and its why we are all different. 
As I said,Step 14 thru 11 are mandatory.
But I want the best for you, so I really hope and pray you will go for as many steps as you possibly can.
Killer Chemist

What Happens When Hair Gets Damaged?

Healthy Hair is always the goal

The moisture content of hair is what keeps it smooth and supple, and the main factors in its ability to retain moisture are the specific properties of amino acids. When the chain is degenerated, dehydration takes place….causing the hair to lose elasticity, strength and gloss.
Frequently, I get nervous I am speaking and concentrating on ‘hair color’ solely, remember NOTHING IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN HEALTHY HAIR . NOTHING.
I want every single person that follows Killer Strands creed to check over those 14 steps once monthly (every single month of the year!), and exactly like ‘dieting’ -- you will come to a plateau – when you do and you are jones-ing for another burst in the health or growth length of your hair. I hope you will step up to the plate and take on another step, I have watched many a client do this, and watched it pleasantly surprise themselves (and me), once again.
As a matter of fact just this week a close girlfriend decided to begin forcing 1 liter of water down her throat - - daily. She has always complained “ I hate the taste of water”. . . . as so many do.

Its about time I come clean ……. I used to have that exact same feeling, until I took on the challenge of forcing 80 oz ( 2 liters) down my throat every single day for 2 weeks. Sound gross? It is. I’m not going to lie and tell you how wonderful it is, how fun and easy it is….nope miserable - - absolutely miserable. It involves downing a full glass of water every half hour > all day long. Yep, GROSS….Big Time.
But…….and this is a very big ‘but’ !! …just like I had read in a hair chemistry book, once you begin drinking large amounts of water - -your body goes through changes and there will come a time where it all changes and your body becomes used to this large amount of water, it begins to crave it. You don’t have to think about ‘forcing it down’, your body tells you to take a big 8 oz glass of water nearly every 1-2 hours of the day ! It was no longer an effort, it becomes “normal”…completely NORMAL. It was absolutely amazing to me, I don’t think most of us know what the feeling truly is of “severe thirst” or even ‘thirst’ at all – we are so fortunate to be surrounded by thousands of liquid drinks – and to not have to worry about where or when our next gulp of water or juice is coming from.
When was the last time you truly felt - - “THIRST”??. We are such a busy-busy nation of people most of the people I speak to don’t slow down enough to think about thirst, they find drinking water a chore, instead of a necessity of a healthy life. I found that most interesting, to go from not liking it…….to craving it - - - just the wonders of the HEALTHY human body always shock me. That is why I truly encourage you to try this, watch how much adding water – just adding water to your ‘daily intake’ changes your skin, your bodily functions and more importantly - - YOUR HAIR! ! I find it also amazing that people will take on these challenges when their hair is involved…but whatever works to open peoples eyes.

To draw a current parallel that may make it easier for you to understand how much our bodies need water to run perfectly, I want to use some of the strong – unbelievable stories of Haitians that have been pulled out of the rubble in the big Haiti Earthquake. Have you seen the little boy that was buried for 8 days under layers of cement blocks, pulled out . . . what was his main problem ?? He was dehydrated, exactly what I am talking about in hair health - - dehydration is disastrous for the hairs health and the body – it can literally - bluntly > kill you. So, if not having enough water in your body can kill you, can you see the parallel and how important it must be for something so simple as your HAIR growth ? ?Hair needs a healthy body to grow from, one of my most common quotes is: “Your hair is the first indication of your health”, I know my clients don’t listen to me because I have said this one sentence for years…but I honestly truly mean it. I cannot tell you the illnesses that a doctor diagnosis a patient where hair thinning and hair loss is one of the first indications of many serious diseases. So remember that, all physicians use hair thinning/loss as a very common sign of looming illness.
Anderson Cooper highlighted this little 5 year old boy – “Monley” on CNN (ya gotta love Anderson), he lost everyone in his family so AC was hoping someone in the USA might offer to adopt him {if you have any interest in this please contact CNN}

They showed footage of him being pulled out after being buried for 8 days, his skin was dry and dehydrated his stomach was distended he looked as though he might not make it. They got an IV in him immediately, the footage of him 2 days later was a true miracle. An IV has mainly WATER in it – and Dr.Gupta was saying that was the main thing needed to save him…is that not a crystal clear picture of what not enough water in your body can do ??? I hope this story rings true to you, touches your soul and inspires you to “ give WATER a chance”

Drinking water is a necessity. Don’t take advantage of the amount your body needs to operate properly. I have had so many women tell me that they sleep better, they have less headaches, their skin glows, their dry/itchy skin problems subside, give it 30 days. I have received hundreds of postive reports about drinking massive amounts of water - - -across the board. And no, in 2 weeks your hair won’t be shiny BUT, in 6-8 weeks it may, Hair is made up of water, if you don’t give it water – and LOTS OF, it is not living up to its potential.

What I am pushing here is a permanent return to drinking 8-10 glasses per day – only starting with twice that is my recommendation. Fill up a liter bottle of Evian, or whatever brand suits you…personally I found the least expensive way to drink that much water was to pay for a reverse osmosis system on my kitchen sink. It treats my drinking water so it tastes EXACTLY and contains EXACTLY what Evian or any of the bottled waters out there do. Its a wonderful system, you just need to call your local water treating company and get prices from 3-4 companies on reverse osmosis treatment. Here in LA for 1 month it is $18.50 - for an endless supply of excellent water, I feel that is reasonable and better than purchasing cases of bottles…you know all the plastic & RECYCLING problems, etc. Its approx. $200 to purchase which is what I hope to do some day. This is what my unit under my sink looks like….. it is small & compact…
I feel with my new massive amount of water I drink - - I needed a reasonable answer or I would talk myself out of it! That is kind of how I teach my clients each step of 10,000HEADS, I solve the little problems of each step personally, then give them the easiest solution. That way when I quiz them, I have an answer for every question, & that is the way I like my education > from first hand knowledge.
I can admit my clients have all had a bit of fear.. showing up for random appointments…I watch them squirm and kick myself for being so stern sometimes. They will sit down in the chair, and in 5-6 weeks I can touch their hair and just simply ask, ‘what happened this month?’ and the squirm becomes a small sweat…they will have gotten lazy with of one of their “trigger” steps. Which means, I have found that almost every person has 2-3 steps, out of the 14 that are their own personal “TRIGGER Steps” the steps that are what made the biggest difference in their hair. At times it will take 2 months before I notice although there are many times I will notice it, in a month.
My recognition of Trigger deficiencies comes from my zest for the art of healthy hair, I’m not sure I have ever found another Stylist that was/is as involved in producing healthy hair as I am. Many thought me nutty, I bet many of you feel the same. It began a year or 2 after graduating from Sassoon, the idea was born from the Academy as they cram “healthy hair” down your throat – D A I L Y. As far as I am concerned – there was good reason for everything I learned from that school It was one of the most inspiring, and worthwhile educations of my lifetime and I also am a College Grad.on top of everything else. Learning about life and health and beauty at that school was insanely expensive but worth every last cent.

The skin, hair and muscles of your body are composed almost entirely of protein and water. How can so many seemingly different structures be made of the same substance? The answer lies in the building blocks of proteins, known as amino acids. As the name indicates, amino acids contain an amine group and an acid group.These groups are both attached to the same carbon. It is the combination of the different amino acids (in some cases millions) that decides what particular protein we will end up with.

High on the list of causes of hair degeneration is the variety of chemicals found in the beauty salon although more importantly their handling is the key. Which is why I write on this blog day in and day out. Trying to train you all in the proper manner how to repair and how to apply color in the proper manner. Examples include permanent wave solutions that are too strong, over-processed or incompletely neutralized. So many do not take the steps seriously. I am a fanatic of ‘all the steps a procedure take”, most Stylists let their guard down and begin eliminating steps from RELAXERS, BLEACH & TONES, and on and on. This is what begins the road to damaged hair, eliminating Steps to a procedure.
In today's world of 2010 hair we possess the knowledge to properly and without damage:

• Color Hair
• Curl Hair
• Straighten Hair permanently
• Bleach Hair
• Add Extensions to Hair
• Darken Hair
• Tint Red Hair
• Crazy Color Hair
• Tease Hair
• Style Hair
• Remove Hair Color
• Fill Hair
• Wave Hair
• Braid Hair
• Tone Hair

…..do every single procedure in this list TO HAIR…. IN A totally HEALTHY MANNER. Never let a hair stylist tell you different. (I’m sure I’ve forgotten some procedures)
This is 100%TRUTH
I want all of my readers and crib colorists to know this, to all know that it IS possible. I ran my entire career never dropping one step, I added 3 steps, and time to another. Don’t worry - - my Assistants all thought I was nuts as well – I always hoped they took my vision to their own careers. I could tell good assistants from bad by their reaction toward adding steps to a procedure. I made them all carry a neck timer to set on every procedure they were on during a day (yes,they hated it - but its a great lesson)
A relaxer is the most crucial, and dangerous hair application a Stylist will ever undertake I would say 75% (at least) will not even do them, most are afraid. They don’t teach them in general HAIR SCHOOLS, I only had a week of training in the Academy, but it hit me - - to be the exclusive Malibu Stylist performing them, all you stylists reading this, I highly recommend you adding it to your repertoire ( remember only add it on if you will do ALL of the steps and not drop one of the many stepped procedure) it is the most rewarding as well as the most time consuming.
The knowledge is there to successfully apply every hair procedure above without causing one ounce of damage to the hair.The problem comes when individuals begin cutting short and cutting OUT the steps needed to turn out a healthy-strong- beautiful head of hair.

The human body produces proteins day in and day out to build and repair its structures. Amino Acids are linked together in protein structures by the peptide linkage. In the case of hair, the structure is that of Keratin. Keratin is composed of 18% cysteine. This is important because additional bonds known as disulfide bonds occur between the sulfur atoms in 2 peptide chains, offering great structural strength. The natural colorant of the hair is another protein, a protein known as: melanin ( I am hoping you notice how important it is for you to have protein, along with water… in your diet daily ). I try to make this simple, yet, it is not a simple subject. Remember to keep reading over and over, it will eventually sink in….that is exactly how I learned these slippery subjects.

Other negative factors are the action of all the various hot tools, flat irons, crimpers, rollers, anything heated even blow dryers. Heat is the hairs worst enemy. Sea air and salt water which leave a crystalline residue of salt that has a drying effect on the hair. Denatured alcohol is the bad alcohol, be sure your products do not contain that and especially not at the beginning of the Ingredient list {means it is the highest percentage in the formula}.This is now a perfect spot for reviewing the 14 Steps of 10,000HEADS, each one will show you what damages hair.
Which brings us full circle to City tap water, which is usually high in calcium and trace minerals can leave a whole array of deposits affecting both the condition of the hair and FUTURE PROCESSING ; not to mention the negative effects that chlorine, central heating systems, air pollution, wind and excessive sunlight have on the condition of the hair.
The explanations given about atoms, molecules, mixtures and hair color are not an attempt to provide a speed course in chemistry. These are given to raise the awareness of just how sophisticated the chemicals we use are and to strongly dissuade anyone from “KITCHEN CHEMISTRY” { a term I had never heard before my voyage into the art of Blog writing}.
Learn as much as you can about the chemicals and products you use, what is chemically possible to do, and what you can reasonably expect. Then as I always say…..CHOOSE THE BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB.
Remember Chemicals do not make mistakes…….
………WE DO
Killer
Chemist