January 25, 2010

What Happens When Hair Gets Damaged?

Healthy Hair is always the goal

BC9319-001The moisture content of hair is what keeps it smooth and supple, and the main factors in its ability to retain moisture are the specific properties of amino acids. When the chain is degenerated, dehydration takes place….causing the hair to lose elasticity, strength and gloss.
Frequently, I get nervous I am speaking and concentrating on ‘hair color’ solely, remember NOTHING IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN HEALTHY HAIR . NOTHING.
I want every single person that follows Killer Strands creed to check over those 14 steps once monthly (every single month of the year!), and exactly like ‘dieting’ -- you will come to a plateau – when you do and you are jones-ing for another burst in the health or growth lengthvis319989 of your hair. I hope you will step up to the plate and take on another step, I have watched many a client do this, and watched it pleasantly surprise themselves (and me), once again.
As a matter of fact just this week a close girlfriend decided to begin forcing 1 liter of water down her throat - - daily. She has always complained “ I hate the taste of water”. . . . as so many do.
Its about time I come clean ……. I used to have that exact same feeling, until I took on the challenge of forcing 80 oz ( 2 liters) down my throat every single day for 2 weeks. Sound gross? It is. I’m not going to lie and tell you how wonderful it is, how fun and easy it is….nope miserable - - absolutely miserable. It involves downing a full glass of water every half hour > all day long. Yep, GROSS….Big Time.
But…….and this is a very big ‘but’ !! …just like I had read in a hair chemistry book, once you begin drinking large amounts of water - -your body goes through changes and there will come a time where it all changes and your body becomes used to this large amount of water, it begins to crave it. You don’t have to think about ‘forcing it down’, your body tells you to take a big 8 oz glass of water nearly every 1-2 hours of the day ! It was no longer an effort, it becomes “normal”…completely NORMAL. It was absolutely amazing to me, I don’t think most of us know what the feeling truly is of “severe thirst” or even ‘thirst’ at all – we are so fortunate to be surrounded by thousands of liquid drinks – and to not have to worry about where or when our next gulp of water or juice is coming from.
skd184375sdc When was the last time you truly felt - - “THIRST”??. We are such a busy-busy nation of people most of the people I speak to don’t slow down enough to think about thirst, they find drinking water a chore, instead of a necessity of a healthy life. I found that most interesting, to go from not liking it…….to craving it - - - just the wonders of the HEALTHY human body always shock me. That is why I truly encourage you to try this, watch how much adding water – just adding water to your ‘daily intake’ changes your skin, your bodily functions and more importantly - - YOUR HAIR! ! I find it also amazing that people will take on these challenges when their hair is involved…but whatever works to open peoples eyes.
To draw a current parallel that may make it easier for you to understand how much our bodies need water to run perfectly, I want to use some of the strong – unbelievable stories of Haitians that have been pulled out of the rubble in the big Haiti Earthquake. Have you seen the little boy that was buried for 8 days under layers of cement blocks, pulled out . . . what was his main problem ?? He was dehydrated, exactly what I am talking about in hair health - - dehydration is disastrous for the hairs health and the body – it can literally - bluntly > kill you. 102207a So, if not having enough water in your body can kill you, can you see the parallel and how important it must be for something so simple as your HAIR growth ? ?Hair needs a healthy body to grow from, one of my most common quotes is: “Your hair is the first indication of your health”, I know my clients don’t listen to me because I have said this one sentence for years…but I honestly truly mean it. I cannot tell you the illnesses that a doctor diagnosis a patient where hair thinning and hair loss is one of the first indications of many serious diseases. So remember that, all physicians use hair thinning/loss as a very common sign of looming illness.
Anderson Cooper highlighted this little 5 year old boy – “Monley” on CNN (ya gotta love Anderson), he lost everyone in his family so AC was hoping someone in the USA might offer to adopt him {if you have any interest in this please contact CNN}
They showed footage of him being pulled out after being buried for 8 days, his skin was dry and dehydrated his stomach was distended he looked as though he might not make it. They got an IV in him immediately, the footage of him 2 days later was a true miracle. An IV has mainly WATER in it – and Dr.Gupta was saying that was the main thing needed to save him…is that not a crystal clear picture of what not enough water in your body can do ??? I hope this story rings true to you, touches your soul and inspires you to “ give WATER a chance”
Drinking water is a necessity. Don’t take advantage of the amount your body needs to operate properly. I have had so many women tell me that they sleep better, they have less headaches, their skin glows, their dry/itchy skin problems subside, give it 30 days. I have received hundreds of postive reports about drinking massive amounts of water - - -across the board. And no, in 2 weeks your hair won’t be shiny BUT, in 6-8 weeks it may, Hair is made up of water, if you don’t give it water – and LOTS OF, it is not living up to its potential.
What I am pushing here is a permanent return to drinking 8-10 glasses per day – only starting with twice that is my recommendation. Fill up a liter bottle of Evian, or whatever brand suits you…personally I found the least expensive way to drink that much water was to pay for a reverse osmosis system on my kitchen sink. It treats my drinking water so it tastes EXACTLY and contains EXACTLY what Evian or any of the bottled waters out there do. Its a wonderful system, you just need to call your local water treating company and get prices from 3-4 companies on reverse osmosis treatment. Here in LA for 1 month it is $18.50 - for an endless supply of excellent water, I feel that is reasonable and better than purchasing cases of bottles…you know all the plastic & RECYCLING problems, etc. Its approx. $200 to purchase which is what I hope to do some day. This is what my unit under my sink looks like….. it is small & compact…
a0d59cf2-b00b-4075-9ec2-bcbdf276dfdf_300 I feel with my new massive amount of water I drink - - I needed a reasonable answer or I would talk myself out of it! That is kind of how I teach my clients each step of 10,000HEADS, I solve the little problems of each step personally, then give them the easiest solution. That way when I quiz them, I have an answer for every question, & that is the way I like my education > from first hand knowledge.
I can admit my clients have all had a bit of fear.. showing up for random appointments…I watch them squirm and kick myself for being so stern sometimes. They will sit down in the chair, and in 5-6 weeks I can touch their hair and just simply ask, ‘what happened this month?’ and the squirm becomes a small sweat…they will have gotten lazy with of one of their “trigger” steps. Which means, I have found that almost every person has 2-3 steps, out of the 14 that are their own personal “TRIGGER Steps” the steps that are what made the biggest difference in their hair. At times it will take 2 months before I notice although there are many times I will notice it, in a month.
My recognition of Trigger deficiencies comes from my zest for the art of healthy hair, I’m not sure I have ever found another Stylist that was/is as involved in producing healthy hair as I am. Many thought me nutty, I bet many of you feel the same. It began a year or 2 after graduating from Sassoon, the idea was born from the Academy as they cram “healthy hair” down your throat – D A I L Y. As far as I am concerned – there was good reason for everything I learned from that school It was one of the most inspiring, and worthwhile educations of my lifetime and I also am a College Grad.on top of everything else. Learning about life and health and beauty at that school was insanely expensive but worth every last cent.
The skin, hair and muscles of your body are composed almost entirely of protein and water. How can so many seemingly different structures be made of the same substance? The answer lies in the building blocks of proteins, known as amino acids. As the name indicates, amino acids contain an amine group and an acid group.These groups are both attached to the same carbon. It is the combination of the different amino acids (in some cases millions) that decides what particular protein we will end up with.
High on the list of causes of hair degeneration is the variety of chemicals found in the beauty salon although more importantly their handling is the key. Which is why I write on this blog day in and day out. Trying to train you all in the proper manner how to repair and how to apply color in the proper manner. Examples include permanent wave solutions that are too strong, over-processed or incompletely neutralized. So many do not take the steps seriously. I am a fanatic of ‘all the steps a procedure take”, most Stylists let their guard down and begin eliminating steps from RELAXERS, BLEACH & TONES, and on and on. This is what begins the road to damaged hair, eliminating Steps to a procedure.
In today's world of 2010 hair we possess the knowledge to properly and without damage:
  • Color Hair
  • Curl Hair
  • Straighten Hair permanently
  • Bleach Hair
  • Add Extensions to Hair
  • Darken Hair
  • Tint Red Hair
  • Crazy Color Hair
  • Tease Hair
  • Style Hair
  • Remove Hair Color
  • Fill Hair
  • Wave Hair
  • Braid Hair
  • Tone Hair
…..do every single procedure in this list TO HAIR…. IN A totally HEALTHY MANNER. Never let a hair stylist tell you different. (I’m sure I’ve forgotten some procedures)
This is 100%TRUTH
I want all of my readers and crib colorists to know this, to all know that it IS possible. I ran my entire career never dropping one step, I added 3 steps, and time to another. Don’t worry - - my Assistants all thought I was nuts as well – I always hoped they took my vision to their own careers. I could tell good assistants from bad by their reaction toward adding steps to a procedure. I made them all carry a neck timer to set on every procedure they were on during a day (yes,they hated it - but its a great lesson)
89731055 A relaxer is the most crucial, and dangerous hair application a Stylist will ever undertake I would say 75% (at least) will not even do them, most are afraid. They don’t teach them in general HAIR SCHOOLS, I only had a week of training in the Academy, but it hit me - - to be the exclusive Malibu Stylist performing them, all you stylists reading this, I highly recommend you adding it to your repertoire ( remember only add it on if you will do ALL of the steps and not drop one of the many stepped procedure) it is the most rewarding as well as the most time consuming.
The knowledge is there to successfully apply every hair procedure above without causing one ounce of damage to the hair.The problem comes when individuals begin cutting short and cutting OUT the steps needed to turn out a healthy-strong- beautiful head of hair.
The human body produces proteins day in and day out to build and repair its structures. Amino Acids are linked together in protein structures by the peptide linkage. In the case of hair, the structure is that of Keratin. Keratin is composed of 18% cysteine. This is important because additional bonds known as disulfide bonds occur between the sulfur atoms in 2 peptide chains, offering great structural strength. The natural colorant of the hair is another protein, a protein known as: melanin ( I am hoping you notice how important it is for you to have protein, along with water… in your diet daily ). I try to make this simple, yet, it is not a simple subject. Remember to keep reading over and over, it will eventually sink in….that is exactly how I learned these slippery subjects.
Other negative factors are the action of all the various hot tools, flat irons, crimpers, rollers, anything heated even blow dryers. Heat is the hairs worst enemy. Sea air and salt water which leave a crystalline residue of salt that has a drying effect on the hair. Denatured alcohol is the bad alcohol, be sure your products do not contain that and especially not at the beginning of the Ingredient list {means it is the highest percentage in the formula}.This is now a perfect spot for reviewing the 14 Steps of 10,000HEADS, each one will show you what damages hair.
10,000 heads - 14 STEPS - 01-01-10 Which brings us full circle to City tap water, which is usually high in calcium and trace minerals can leave a whole array of deposits affecting both the condition of the hair and FUTURE PROCESSING ; not to mention the negative effects that chlorine, central heating systems, air pollution, wind and excessive sunlight have on the condition of the hair. design039856
The explanations given about atoms, molecules, mixtures and hair color are not an attempt to provide a speed course in chemistry. These are given to raise the awareness of just how sophisticated the chemicals we use are and to strongly dissuade anyone from “KITCHEN CHEMISTRY” { a term I had never heard before my voyage into the art of Blog writing}.
Learn as much as you can about the chemicals and products you use, what is chemically possible to do, and what you can reasonably expect. Then as I always say…..CHOOSE THE BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB.
Remember Chemicals do not make mistakes…….
………WE DO
2 comments on "What Happens When Hair Gets Damaged?"
  1. Thanks for sharing. i really admire this.

  2. I have extremely curly hair that was damaged due to a smoothing product I was using (alcohol was the first ingredient:/ ) . My hair was so dead I had to cut my curly hair up to my ears. I'm mortified because I look ridiculous, so I opted to straighten my hair. I straighten it once every two weeks, but after reading your comments about FIA I'm wondering if that's a good idea or not?? I admire your advice and research. Can you please advise? Thanks!


All comments are moderated. Please do not include: references to personal information, or any profane, inflammatory or copyrighted comments. We would appreciate it if we all stick to the subject of HAIR . Have a wonderful day.