July 16, 2015

Blonding Hair Has A New Product To Use in The Never-ending Battle of Fighting Brass & Gold While Lightening!.........Pigmented Developers !

I am excited to Introduce A New Product to You...
Its a new product to introduce to you that I have been working on the past month. 

Recently I introduced to you............. ''Pigmented lighteners'' by Wella, a product called MAGMA. Which we carry in the Store presently....MAGMA has been out many years but they have reformulated it and created 17 new colors. All of which are inter-mixeable... ! ! ! There are so many little and  BIG tricks you can create with mixing all of the powders, there is a white powder they call "CLEAR" which gives you the ability to create pastels....

The Lighteners themselves are tinted various colors so that they tint the hair as it is lightened, the various colors help a little fight DURP in the hair OR add colors like ROSE....Pink.....Peach..... let me show you the powders...........

 I have opened 3 of them to play with.... see the blue (what does blue color do in the blonding process???...of course it fights Blorange and Gold a tiny bit.... because its opposite of those colors on the color wheel...) 
The biggest problem when blonding is the annoying DURP /or annoying remaining pigment that is LEFT in the hair.......once the black or brown color is lifted out of the hair. MAGMA is basically made for people looking to go Blond, you can go Blond and fight DURP but you still need more to fight most people's DURP.....

So therefore don't PIGMENTED LIGHTENERS make a while lot of sense? The one powder I played with is /17 Ash Blonde. 

Guess what color that powder is?

Its the Powder Blue powder you see above. Why? Because ASH Blonde is blonde with ZERO Brass/ or Zero Gold / or ZERO any annoying colors and why not use a Blue Lightening powder to attempt to do that with. Blue fights Gold. Blue Fights Brass Blue fights Blorange.

 It is on the opposite side of the color  on the color wheel from those colors.......... which is how it works to either enhance or Dissolve the Tints/Hints/Colors you are trying so hard to get rid of.


USE the opposite color on the color wheel and it will get rid of it . So if you wanty to get rid of Brass (yellow) look across from it....................the color is Violet. So Use Violet Powder/Developer/ anything purple you can find........... will help get rid of that annoying brass you ..............DO - - - - -NOT- - - - - - WANT


 See....the colors on this side of the color wheel : YELLOW, YELLOW-ORANGE & ORANGE....all colors every colorist + Client wishes didn't exist. But they are the strongest pigments in the hair, & the last and hardest to get rid of..... as the hair lightens it gets stuck at yellow-orange and it is nearly impossible to get it lighter than that stage....which is the reason for everyone's grief in becoming a pleasant "Toned" Blond. 

Being as 1 in 4 People want to be Blonde. We have a HUGE WAR, that has never been won, but we continue to work on it and I am here adding to our arsenal of tools we need to use to fight it.

 ! ? !) Remember how much I have spoken about DURP.....or Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigmented......or the color most of us have in our hair as you lighten it in one of the many many ways there are to lighten and Blond hair.

Lets look at the MAGMA by Wella U TUBE Video to get an idea of the pigmented powders and what they are presenting.


So, we all know how it is necessary to mix developer with a hair color OR lightener to make the color work...Right?
Developer is a product called many different names:
  • Developer
  • Peroxide
  • H2O2
  • Emulsion
  • Hydrogen Peroxide
they are all the same product and they are what is necessary to create the hair coloring action that changes the color of your hair. Whether it is light dark or red.....it is NOT necessary to use our BOOST & BURST, the truly Semi-Permanent Hair Color you will come across. Semi- Permanent Hair color only coats the hair, while all other hair color:
  • Demi-Permanent Hair Color
  • Permanent Hair Color - which includes Bleaches, pigmented lighteners, etc
these change the hair color permanently and a lot of works needs to be done to either return the hair to its normal color or begin your new life as a new hair color.
This is the one and only time that the hair strands cuticle is "open" which is the one and only time that hair coloring action can take place because of that fact. 

So a couple years ago I tracked down a violet Developer for all of you to use and to add to our oil bleach Kits. Why would I want that? What is the number 1 problem with going.............BLONDE?
So using this violet developer has been a big seller here at Killerstrands, most everyone that is going Blonde either purchases our Oil bleach Kit which has 20 volume  Purple developer.

Then I went on a hunt for a BLUE developer, because if you have GOLD or BLORANGE, Violet will help a little but BLUE is across the Color Wheel from Gold not Purple. First I bought one, I recieved it and it was Violet then I purchased the 2nd one which we carry currently made by Aloxxi. It says its BLUE, but when I put it next to the Violet Deve3loper we have gotten for years, it is much more Violet than Blue. But, it has sold well and I have warned people.

But finally I got disgusted. I asked the company that currently makes the Violet Developer to make a BLUE one that it would sell really well. He pretty much told me It was a ridiculous idea. He just doesn't understand hair color or anything about it. 
So now, I finally got discusted and decided to just try to make one myself.  .. . . a Solid Blue Developer for all those people fighting both Blorange/.Gold and Dark Brass...to all of you who need a nice strong Blue Developer.............. 
I finally decided to begin the job of developing one on my own...

It is a success and I am very please to introduce to you.....Breaking Bad Blue Developer
40 Volume................in BBBlue

So my first Tester is 40 Volume, with Wella Blondor ( Blue Powder lightener - the most common color of powder lightener there is & Blondor is probably the most popular brand.)
So after a few test runs with the blue pigment I finally decided on is Blue........... VERY Blue..............no Violet here !

I mixed 40 Volume pretty dense with the pigment what the hell, it was on a Dollhead.


I RAN # 3 TESTS on the right hand side of the top of this Doll head ( the left hand side was my MAGMA demonstration - somewhere on one of the many places we give education.) 
Which is beautiful as well. So if you are interested in Pigmented lighteners....
I have decided I am going to make a line of pigmented Developers as well. Why not?
I have Purple on the way, I feel if Bold Blue works so well, how well is Bold Violet going to work?
Why not Beige Developer?
Why not Red Developer ?
Why not Brown Developer?
I have so many ideas and I have samples on the way.....but BLUE is a HUGE HIT  ! ! ! 

I'm not sure those will be as effective as th Blue, but the Blue in one Application left Zero Yellow or Gold on Level 6 Brown Hair which is very VERY rare.

So I am excited for you. 

Soooooooooooooooo Many of you are Blonds out there.....
So many of you WANT TO BE BLONDS ! 
So the Option of Blue developer is now added to the website...if you want Blue 20 Volume for the Oil Bleach Kit, its going to be an extra $1.00  until we get the next big batch made which we will make Blue Developers and Violet Developers ! !

Next Batch which will be made very soon.

WE will offer BBBBlue Developer in all strengths today..
AS bright as it looks as soon as you rinse it out - its gone 
( this was even processed for only 45 minutes) 
which is very short for 1 Application, that is a tremendous short we can process 75-90 minutes, but, I . . . . .for once, I
 was being conservative ! ! ! !

The BLUE developers are on the store's website! Aren't you excited to see if the other color developers help in both tinting and fighting DURP. You never know, but we will be testing other colors next week am very excited about the prospects of all of these next week!

3 comments on "Blonding Hair Has A New Product To Use in The Never-ending Battle of Fighting Brass & Gold While Lightening!.........Pigmented Developers !"
  1. Thank you killerstrands for all your information. It is indeed an eye opener for us to understand how to do it the right way. I wanted soo much to join the group but because I am an international costmer I couldn't ):
    I would love to change my hair color to a dark brown ash and i have a virgin- level 2 hair
    I don't know what is the proper high-lift prouducts i should use and the hair color that will give me the best result.. Can you please help me

  2. You would need to use a high-lift ASH/MATTE depending on your DURP, but you have not said how light you want to go but, using high-lift on your darkness of hair if you truly have completely virgin hair is many times purchasing 2-3 of them running strand tests then going with the best one.
    Without you in my chair .............that would be my only suggestion .
    Try these 3:
    Matrix UL-P+
    Wella - 12/69 and
    Igora Royal in 12/19
    ...........with 40Volume Violet Developer
    Purchase our smallest foil packet and then let me know your results.

    1. I really can't thank you enough for being such a helpful person. you are truly unique! I would looove sooo much to be in your chair and for you to do my hair-you have no idea-
      The thing is I tried to find the colors you've suggested but only found Igora Royal 12/19
      And the 40 developer . I couldn't find the other 2 suggestions in your website, or elsewhere "as i am buying online because non of them are available in my town"
      I would like to pay for a consultation from you so i can ask you more questions and if it is possible for you to provide me with the needful to buy from as I can't really trust any source other than yours.
      Waiting for your reply :)


All comments are moderated. Please do not include: references to personal information, or any profane, inflammatory or copyrighted comments. We would appreciate it if we all stick to the subject of HAIR . Have a wonderful day.