October 25, 2012

Calculating Hair Color Formula's - Answering Killer 18 Questions

Hair Color Analysis...with previous hair color on currently

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get their color Selection. Well, I say, NOT in today's world  !  Therefore, I am going to put together the NEW Killer 18 Questionnaire. Answer this honestly & completely =  your magical answer will appear ... I will list them today & and for the next couple weeks will write a post on each one, so they are in a row- are updated with as new information as there is in the world of color (I can find). I would like to do this so we may move on to other subjects.  The main goal for me are these 3 points:
  • Simple as possible 
  • Clarity for YOU !
  • Pictures to help
 The tricks of the trade in Hair coloring??? There are no tricks....it's all science/chemistry/art & experience. There is no guesswork if you learn THE LEVEL SYSTEM. It comes down to a combination of ART & Science.

  People want me to give them a one word answer for their hair color selection, I would LOVE to be able to do that. But, what I have found out in the years on this Blog? Most of you love hair coloring (I completely understand), and have many layers of color on your hair by the time you find me. That is unfortunate,  as it is the first red-flag in hair color analysis. It changes all the simple Rules, that were designed not too long ago by hair color manufacturers. 

The Killer 18 ...........Questions for hair Selection when you have previous hair color on

  1. Texture & length ?
  2. Length of hair ?
  3. Ethnicity ?
  4. Has hair Been Bleached ?
  5. Porosity ?
  6. Boxed Color? How many?
  7. Percentage of Gray?
  8. What Type of Color is on ...Box? Professional?
  9.  Straightener? Ever?
  10. D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
  11. Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
  12. Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
  13. Current Color - Level & Tone?
  14. Desired Color - Level & Tone? 
  15. Damage? Extent of, all over or sections
  16. Your age ( ball park only ) '
  17. Your lifestyle
  18.  What is your favorite SHOE ?
I've said this numerous times, but I hope for it to make sense in the "big" picture.
When you have previously colored hair it makes it very difficult to create any new color you desire. The fact that I have told you that the LEVEL SYSTEM is a chart of rules and numbers that one may use to come up with your new perfect formula, only pertains to those with VIRGIN hair. Now THAT my Dear, now-a-days is as rare as a Unicorn. Those rules and system work excellent on someone with virgin hair, but that just isn't that helpful any longer, not when grandma - Grandpa and the DOG !! have their hair colored already!

Just 30-40 years ago, people would go to the Salon with Virgin hair (never colored) ask for a new color...or (mostly) ask to get their gray covered...and they were done. Today, so many of you are lured by the advertising on TV, magazines & right here on the web. Your favorite stars have been paid an obscene amount of money to put on a (virgin!) wig that has been colored by that companies brand of color and smile and lie to you with no regrets or guilt at all. Most of you write and tell me that you grabbed a box of color at the grocery store/drugstore/ or weekly trip to Targeeee(t). Really, since when does the place you purchase the food you feed your children, sell boxes of color that any 11-13-15 year old can purchase and begin the long, downhill, arduous road to damaged hair? This all leads to the problems that end up here at Killerstrands and for which I spend hours trying to figure out ways for you to repair your hair & predict your next hair color choice! Whewwww !!

 Many of you respond to me about VANISH...the hair color REMOVER we carry...."how come no one has heard of this product?" I am asked... "why don't more Stylists use it??". There is a saying that goes something like this: "however goes California...there follows the rest of the country"..its from a history book I was reading. 

There was a smile that hit my face when I read that....and I know it to be true.  My parents are from Michigan, they drove out here while my mother was pregnant with me. Therefore throughout my life I kept in contact with all my cousins in Michigan - we would go back every summer once my Dad made it big. For my entire lifetime we would be doing something out here whether it was a new sport, new games, new food.....anything and my cousins back there had never heard of them. 2 to 5 years later they caught up. I have been puzzled by that my whole life...I mean why? What makes us different out here, and especially in Los Angeles....there must be an answer for that. But that is my only reason on the Vanish question.

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get the color Selection. I say, NOT in today's world  !  Therefore, I am going to put together the NEW Killer 14 Questions ...I will list them today & and in the next couple weeks will write a post on each one, so they are updated with as new information as there is in the world of color. I will strive for the following:
  •  Simple as possible 
  • Clarity for the layman
  • Pictures to help
Wish me luck !


3 comments on "Calculating Hair Color Formula's - Answering Killer 18 Questions"
  1. Hi,

    I can't find your google group but I joined as a member a few weeks ago, has it disappeared? I hope you don't mind me posting here my killer 14.

    I'm in need for some hair SOS. A horrible salon bleached my hair 3 times in a row to lift it, I can't believe how ignorant I was to allow it! Anyway needless to say it broke off where it was bleached and left me with a mullet looking hair style from having long hair.

    A year on and here is my killer 14

    1. Texture ? Fine but a lot of it.
    2. Length of hair ? Just below shoulders
    3. Ethnicity ? White UK.
    4. Has hair Been Bleached ? Yes, from about the bottom of my ears down with brown boxed dye on top
    5. Porosity ? Medium from ears up, very from where it has been bleached.
    6. Boxed Color? How many? 3 or 4, but have used shampoo’d a lot and 3 used lots of colour remover (UK brand but seems to be similar to Vanish now I have discovered you!)
    7. Percentage of Gray? 0%
    8. What Type of Color is on ...Box? Professional? Box
    9. Straightener? Ever? Kind of to give it relaxed curl.
    10. D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ? Orangey/Red
    11. Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not? Yes resistant
    12. Virgin Color - Level & Tone ? 6A (Typically Mousey brown)
    13. Current Color - Level & Tone? 6A natural at top for about 1 ½ inches, then level 5 middle and then 4 at bottom.
    14. Desired Color - Level & Tone? Level 7N

    I am too scared to go back to a salon but i don't know how to achieve an even colour with virgin hair at the roots and and stubborn hair at the base! I tried every trick to remove colour including vitamin c tablets in the hair so now my hair is a kind of washed out orangey/brown colour.

    Please help KC!

  2. I have tried all the UK products . . I'm sorry to say they are not near the quality of USA's
    and that really matters
    much more than you are giving it credit for.
    A decolorizer that is not VANISH (of which there are many) all suck, unfortunately.
    So you have many different types of damage with your hair color escapades...
    Never ever use box hair color again... you really need totake that serious. You seem to be zeroed in on having healthy hair - that is good.
    Recovering from this is long and slow,
    Get all hair color out...with ONLY VANISH
    2-3 boxes...maybe even 4
    you may purchase a few of our Malibu2000 packets the Color Correction....
    Please put Platinum hair up in the Search box.....
    take the time to understand what I am teaching, then we can speak about your next steps...use the FEEDBACK button in the store.

  3. Amazing thanks KC, I will continue to be educated. Never ever buying a boxed dye again, I'll purchase some Vanish! Thanks Jx


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