Showing posts with label developer for hair color. Show all posts
Showing posts with label developer for hair color. Show all posts
October 5, 2014

Which Developers Are Lighter & More Liquidy, I Have Thick Yet Baby Fine Hair ?

A recent question from one of our many readers which I do appreciate. They always make me realize that this Blog will never be over ! There are hundreds, even thousands of additions to be answered  and discussed still. 

Always lovely to know !

Developer or H2O2, hydrogen peroxide is the white creamy liquid which is necessary in order for the hair coloring process to take place. Without it there would be absolutely NO lightening happening. It is THAT important, yet when I speak to people even many of you stylists you are afraid of the topic. There really is no need to be afraid of Developer. It is merely 1 molecule away from water! We all know how harmless and how good for us WATER is ??!! 


Right?

Hydrogen peroxide IS Developer. 2 words for the same thing!

Our bodies even produce hydrogen peroxide!

Hydrogen peroxide, the same mild acid that many people use to disinfectant their kitchens or treat cuts and abrasions, is also produced by the body to keep cells healthy. Now, researchers have solved how part of this complex process works.
 Hydrogen peroxide doesn't just come in bottles from the drugstore -- the human body makes it as well. Now researchers from North Carolina State University have found a way to use naturally occurring hydrogen peroxide inside cells to switch on gene expression. Their method also serves as a highly sensitive hydrogen peroxide detector, which may help scientists determine the molecule's role in cellular health and disease says Science Daily.


In a normally functioning cell, hydrogen peroxide serves as a messenger, carrying signals through a cell in order to allow the cell to respond to external stimuli or events. Once the message is transmitted, the hydrogen peroxide diffuses and disappears.
"It's an ideal messenger compound, because it's small, fast, and doesn't linger," says chemist Alex Deiters. "It works by oxidizing, or modifying, certain amino acids in proteins, which affects the protein's function."

 For example, when the immune system is activated in response to bacteria, large amounts of hydrogen peroxide are produced by certain cells to fight the infection. Lowther and colleagues studied how a molecule known as peroxiredoxin (Prx) helps control levels of the agent. The role of Prx is important because if the levels of hydrogen peroxide become too high, the cell's DNA and other proteins can be damaged. Scientists suspect that this and similar processes are what leads to cancer, diabetes and other disease.



Prx actually has a dual role in the process. Its usual job is removing excess hydrogen peroxide from the cells by converting it to water. But if levels get dangerously high -- and Prx needs help -- it becomes inactive in its "converting" job and instead becomes a "signaler," telling the cell to produce or activate other proteins to help remove the excess.

"It basically acts as a sensor and warns the cell that levels are too high and that the cell needs to respond," said Thomas J. Jönsson, Ph.D., lead author, and a post-doctoral fellow at Wake Forest. "Once that threat is gone, Prx needs to go back to its normal state."

I want everyone to understand Developer so you are not afraid of it, once that happens you will welcome the use of it and all the wonderful things it does. If our bodies did not make hydrogen peroxide we would not be alive.....so welcome it and welcome what it 
does.........Please

I also want you to know before I learned all of this I felt the exact same way, I don't know if its the name, or what....? But just the name peroxide used to conjure up horrific things in my mind. I have NO idea where it came from either..... so I am just trying to speed up the process for all of you to accept and love the wonderful little miracle called Developer!

Now, to answer your question on thick or thin..... that does not have anything to do with how it works. 
What it does affect is personal preference. 
Some people like the mixture to be runny, some like it to be thick. But what you will find being as I have worked with over 40 lines of color in my days is this...........
If the color in the tube (no matter "what brand") is on the thicker side, then their developer will be runny. 
Such as Wella's, Schwarzkopf's, Kenra, the most runny is our Violet colored developer. I actually feel it is SO runny I mix it with LANZA which is the thickest to include in our OIL BLEACH KITS, which I am just so proud of. These kits really do wonders for the hair if you are blond!


So your question as to runny or thick? That really is a personal preference. Colorists who do a lot of foil work do not like runny, because runny means the liquid will expand as it develops and then pop out of the foil leaving what we used to call "bunny trails" on the hair (or spots!) I'm sure everyone has either had them or seen them, they come from runny developer. 

The advantage to thick developer, like LANZA, which is clumpy almost....is, it has the "good alcohols" in it. Those good alcohols have one chance to get inside that hair strand and that is when the strand is open and hair color goes in, so that is the advantage of that particular developer over a thinner one. 
Personal preference?
 For me, I love Schwarzkopf's blond developer it is medium thickness and has an oily quality to it so it is very smooth to work with. But again ...........it depends on what you are mixing it with and if you are doing a root touch-up or foil work! To me the thickness of the hair shouldn't matter. 


KC

August 13, 2013

Developing the Developer You Should Use?

     Developer strength is decided by how much "lightening" is required in your formula
Higher Volumes are used for higher lift. If you are not lifting but staying at the same Level the always standard 20 volume is what used to be the norm, but now with so many zillions of Volumes, my suggestion for staying the same is use anywhere from 3 Volume to 20 Volume....(except depending on the porosity and texture of the hair, some get 2 Levels of lift from 20 Volume. I do! My porosity is such that color takes quick so I get a solid 2 levels of lift out of 20 Volume, but I finally started to have a couple little peek-a-boo grays....and......what is the rules about which developer to use with gray hair?


To determine how many Levels you ARE Lifting ...compare your current natural base Level to your "DESIRED" Level. The difference between the 2 is the levels you are lifting.....make sense?
 Don't let this trip you up....Desired Level minus natural level is the numbers of levels you are lifting or:

DESIRED LEVEL(MINUS) NATURAL LEVEL = Levels of LIFT
  All these lovely rules are always made on a person with Virgin Hair - HAIR THAT HAS NEVER BEEN COLORED AND WE ALL KNOW THAT DOESN'T EXIST ANYMORE ! ! ! ! and if you ask me, they are so ancient - we shouldn't even talk about them anymore...........

But, then I realize, there has to be a starting point and for this scenario. . . . VIRGIN HAIR, is it !!           
  
1 level of lift w/ 10 Volume
2 Levels of  Lift w/ 20 Volume  
3-4 Levels of Lift w/ 30 Volume 
................and
4-5 Levels of lift w/ 40 Volume  

With most products and most hair 20 Volume would get you from a Level 5 to a Level 7         But Texture, condition & porosity should be considered !

There are certain products ( Like the Killerstrands OIL BLEACH KIT as an example)  that only need 20 Volume....................BECAUSE it rely's on higher levels of ammonia or MEA in the tint or Bleaching Cream to create additional lift.Double the DESIRED Level and subtract the Natural Level to determine the Level of Tint to use when lifting.

/the Key to choosing the tight developer for gray coverage is to select thehlowest Volume capable of softening the cuticle usually 15 or 20 Volume. Typically Gray hair has a wiry texture ....which has a tough....compact cuticle.

The more resistant the gray and the coarser the gray, the harder it is to penetrate -- too weak a developer won't soften it, and when maximum deposit is needed, high Volume's have to be avoided as well. Higher than 20 Volume in almost every single system will reduce the deposit...and that pesky gray color will come creeping back into your life.

ALWAYS ALWAYS, begin applying the mixed color + developer to area that has the grayest of gray hairs..............FIRST.  PLUS: do NOT be stingy with the color, pile it on there.....but
the saying is..........."Really Soak But Don't Choke"
.liuo
Killer Chemist

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