August 13, 2013

Developing the Developer You Should Use?

     Developer strength is decided by how much "lightening" is required in your formula
Higher Volumes are used for higher lift. If you are not lifting but staying at the same Level the always standard 20 volume is what used to be the norm, but now with so many zillions of Volumes, my suggestion for staying the same is use anywhere from 3 Volume to 20 Volume....(except depending on the porosity and texture of the hair, some get 2 Levels of lift from 20 Volume. I do! My porosity is such that color takes quick so I get a solid 2 levels of lift out of 20 Volume, but I finally started to have a couple little peek-a-boo grays....and......what is the rules about which developer to use with gray hair?


To determine how many Levels you ARE Lifting ...compare your current natural base Level to your "DESIRED" Level. The difference between the 2 is the levels you are lifting.....make sense?
 Don't let this trip you up....Desired Level minus natural level is the numbers of levels you are lifting or:

DESIRED LEVEL(MINUS) NATURAL LEVEL = Levels of LIFT
  All these lovely rules are always made on a person with Virgin Hair - HAIR THAT HAS NEVER BEEN COLORED AND WE ALL KNOW THAT DOESN'T EXIST ANYMORE ! ! ! ! and if you ask me, they are so ancient - we shouldn't even talk about them anymore...........

But, then I realize, there has to be a starting point and for this scenario. . . . VIRGIN HAIR, is it !!           
  
1 level of lift w/ 10 Volume
2 Levels of  Lift w/ 20 Volume  
3-4 Levels of Lift w/ 30 Volume 
................and
4-5 Levels of lift w/ 40 Volume  

With most products and most hair 20 Volume would get you from a Level 5 to a Level 7         But Texture, condition & porosity should be considered !

There are certain products ( Like the Killerstrands OIL BLEACH KIT as an example)  that only need 20 Volume....................BECAUSE it rely's on higher levels of ammonia or MEA in the tint or Bleaching Cream to create additional lift.Double the DESIRED Level and subtract the Natural Level to determine the Level of Tint to use when lifting.

/the Key to choosing the tight developer for gray coverage is to select thehlowest Volume capable of softening the cuticle usually 15 or 20 Volume. Typically Gray hair has a wiry texture ....which has a tough....compact cuticle.

The more resistant the gray and the coarser the gray, the harder it is to penetrate -- too weak a developer won't soften it, and when maximum deposit is needed, high Volume's have to be avoided as well. Higher than 20 Volume in almost every single system will reduce the deposit...and that pesky gray color will come creeping back into your life.

ALWAYS ALWAYS, begin applying the mixed color + developer to area that has the grayest of gray hairs..............FIRST.  PLUS: do NOT be stingy with the color, pile it on there.....but
the saying is..........."Really Soak But Don't Choke"
.liuo
Killer Chemist

1 comment:

  1. This is great information! Anyone who hasn't been doing color forever (I am a dinosaur) can use this information. I just LOVE the saying, "Soak, don't choke!" In fact, the next time I teach, I am going to be quoting you!

    ReplyDelete

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