August 28, 2013

SEVEN . The 7 Stages of Lightening Hair ( or Why Hair Pulls Gold When Going Blonde!)



To go along with our email Blast about out new Schwarzkopf Blondes that are so beautiful, I wanted to go over the color changes that happen when hair is exposed to a product that is capable of lightening it....such as 
  • Cream Lightener (Bleach)
  • Powder Lightener (Bleach)
  • Highlift Blonde Color and lastly
  • Oil-Bleach  (the KS Kits we carry !)
This is a teaching tool of what happens when hair is lightened.
One of the most important lessons in haircoloring is that the final result depends as much on the "natural contribution" of the hair color as it does on the artificial dyes .................and the 7 Stages of Lightening is a way of expressing that. That means, you know how I continue to harp on the term "DURP" ( Dominant/Underlying/Remaining/Pigment  ??? )........... that is more important when lightening the hair ....than the color you choose is !

It is one of the theories of lightening that Colorists,Stylists & YOU , do not grasp properly.....therefore making it difficult for you to get lightening correct. ....and being as 1 in 4 of you  are interested in being Blonde, we really should try to clarify this subject to you.

The 7 Stages of Blonding/Lightening are the colors that the hair goes through as it is lightening to the desirable Blonde we all want...as it is lightened with either Bleach or High-Lift Blond permanent Color.  Theoretically if lightening could be shown to you. . . . in slow motion . . . . . these are the colors you would see..............
  1. Black
  2. Brown
  3. Red
  4. Red-Gold
  5. Gold
  6. Yellow
  7. Pale Yellow
When the hair is exposed to a Lightening product such as bleach or highlift..............its Black and Brown Pigments are the first to begin to break down or oxidize.

Then the Red and Gold pigments gradually oxidize ( this is the most stubborn stage and why hair gets stuck at GOLD or BLOrange so damn often).

The Yellow and Pale Yellow stages are simply lighter and lighter versions of Gold.

When Natural pigment oxidizes in the Sun 'naturally'............it lightens similarly. ....getting stuck at the same stages the longest.....

Notice 5 of the 7 stages have to do with Red 

                                                             














                 and Gold
                  


This is due to the tenacity of these colors in the hair. It takes longer to eliminate RED and even longer to eliminate GOLD.....

GOLD IS THE SINGLE 
           MOST 
DIFFICULT PIGMENT 
            TO 
ELIMINATE IN THE HAIR 
             AND
         EVERY SINGLE BLONDE 
    SHOULD 
                          KNOW 
                                               THIS

we say that lightening creates warmth
the natural warmth of the hair is exposed when the hair is lightened
that's why Violet & ash formula's are used so often to lift......in order to counter balance that natural warmth that lightening creates. 

I'm so pleased with the new Schwarzkopf line for Blondes to help in this area....the dash  -1 colors.....such as 12-1, 10-1, even 8-1 etc....will all help so much in counter-balancing the Blorange/Gold you will experience they are purple & blue based.

the 1 stands for Cendre means it is both: Blue & Violet based
(which means it will fight both orange, gold, brass & yellow)

The Color Chart and how the system works is now in the store - please check it out if you are a blond or want to be one!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

 KillerChemist

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Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better
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