Showing posts with label hair color theory. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hair color theory. Show all posts
October 23, 2016

Color Wheel/Hair Color Theory : Importance in Formulating Your Own Color

Color Wheel

Remember these from school?

WE have one in the store ........-->
designed just for learning how it relates to hair color and as much as you may not want to have anything to do with it, it is the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT THEORY you must learn to understand how to color hair correctly. Daily I hear from colorists around the country and their questions indicate to me that they do not quite grasp the way that COLOR THEORY relates to HAIR COLOR (an absolute MUST!).

In order to color your hair with ZERO BLorange, Gold, Brass, Red or Green ( top 5 most annoying "TONES" ) That is the wonder of mastering Color Theory - you will see.
Everyone must have broken out the Crayon box and colored a color at some point in life. You may not remember, but it is a part of education in most countries, the reason ?
Every person see’s colors differently

Primary colors: Red, Yellow, blue
Secondary Colours: Green, Purple,Orange
Tertiary Colors: Red-Purple, Orange-Red, Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Purple.

Have you ever seen the color-tinted shampoos and conditioners we sell here at Killerstrands?
BOOST & BURST ? ? 
Every single one of them is based on Color Theory. Many of them conquer the "tonal issues" so many of you have.
For example Hispanic hair (when lightened even a tiny bit) has the strongest tendency to pull Blorange or Orange-y.....so knowing that the annoying color is basically ORANGE .....look above at the COLOR Wheel photo draw a line from the Orange tone.......STRAIGHT ACROSS the chart and your finger ends up on 'what' color?.....
BLUE.
So, therefore, I took a chocolate based brown and I gave it a BLUE base.....so it is a Blue based chocolate BROWN......we call it Cafe Azul which means Blue Coffee..........and it work brilliantly on any brunette hair that has some Bl'orange or gold tones that drive you crazy.

 For years they have had a product that grey hair older ladies use called “Shimmering Lights” it is a purple colored conditioner and shampoo , which takes the “yellow” out of grey, grey hair is actually hair with NO pigment in the strand and with all the lousy water, the yellowing is merely the water tingeing the grey/colorless hair, yellow. Why do you think they call the elder generation. . . . “blue hairs”? 
It's from overdoing“Shimmering Lights”!!

Permanent colors : are not the color in the bowl they end up to be.
Semi Permanent Hair Color ( no developer): This color will look like the color it ends up being on your hair.


ONE OF THE MORE BRILLIANT TRICKS FOR BLONDES Is using both Sandy Beach Beige or Rose Angel Rose in BURST & BOOST colored shampoo & conditioners, to enhance blondes in the newest way.

These are directions for using BURST and BOOST

Directions for use: Shampoo hair at beginning of shower, apply conditioner letting it sit on hair for remainder of shower ( 4-8 minutes)… rinse hair as normal. Check hair in mirror, If still yellow – repeat process > add another teaspoon of purple to mixture. Continue doing this until the colour is right for your hair. 

 If for some strange reason it is too bright… just Shampoo once. Its semi-permanent and comes out very easily ! Its both a matter of the right amount of color and right amount of time you have left it on the hair, as factors that effect outcome. The colored conditioners besides this will work a million times better as you have control over the amount of color so it can be tremendously more effective .
October 22, 2015

There is No Crying In Hair Coloring. . . . Understand Color Theory and Tears Will Never Form


Color Theory sounds boring and if you are like me, in Hair Academy, all I did was tune it out.
COMPLETELY OUT. Don't do it , its so simple and it solves SO VERY VERY MUCH ! !

Remember I was the rebel that did a complete 180 degree turn one third of the way thru - Sassoon Academy Year 1 (the Harvard of hair school's - world-wide). I'm telling you even to this day I am mad at myself for not soaking up every last little word...why? At Sassoon all they taught was necessary education. We did things backwards compared to the thousands of (so-called) Beauty schools because every single bit of education that I will teach you here is relevant, I'm too old and too tired to be teaching you anything, but that which is 100% necessary.
PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THAT POINT.

I'm telling you, just the other day when I was having problems trying to calculate a formula for the new "color-enhancing shampoo's" that I wanted to bring into the store as a 'new' Killerstrands product 

You can enhance anyone's appearance with color.

Understanding Color Theory is as easy as knowing the simple LAW OF COLOR and relating it to addition and subtraction. Sir Issac Newton discovered these theories having NO idea they would relate to the hair color world, years later.

Your first project? Color - - - the main Color Wheel --- with the six main colors on it, use different weird shapes for the colors {for fun}...the best medium? Paints. If that is not possible, use felt pens, your kids crayons....whatever. Just do it , so it gets implanted in your brain. It will help with make-up and hair color for the rest of your life.

Name the six main colors: #1_______#2________#3________
#4________#5________#6_______ - - - apply these to your first color wheel

3 of these colors are the Primary Colors.....Name them #1________#2________#3________

3 are Secondary colors ...Name them #1________#2__________#3__________

The Understanding of Basic Color Theory is essential to analyze coloring your own hair. Stylists go to school for a year to learn the basics and they spend about 5 days on hair color in the entire year long program {except at Sassoon} . . . its ridiculous......................You will be Light Years ahead of the stylists out there understanding these concepts, so just follow me into this world of color.
Next... draw the below samples of different combinations ....
Draw the wheel that show s "WARM" and "COOL" colors
Draw the Wheel that shows PRIMARY and SECONDARY Colors
What are SECONDARY colors created from? 
 PRIMARY
....thus the name "SECONDARY" ...get it?









Like I was explaining before Color Solves Problems with the way your hair looks, if you can have beautiful color you are a happy person.







April 14, 2015

How In Hell the Color Wheel Relates to Hair Color - Master Becoming A Crib Colorist

The Color Wheel and Hair Color...
Identifying your Natural LEVEL is the first step in understanding PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR for the Home Hair Colorist.
The next most valuable tool is the Color Wheel, remember the color wheel from elementary school? That probably sounds odd, let me simplify it.

Its important to have a general understanding of how colors work together, you may already know but let me review and how it relates to Hair Color. Remember I am trying to help you learn to Color your hair correctly at home and that's it! If you can understand the color wheel.... when you have colored your hair blond and it has this weird cast of green to it ??? knowing the color wheel well -will help you understand how it got there and more importantly how to get rid of it. I still to this day will glance at it - I love color, but looking at the wheel can settle many questions with hair.

The LAW OF COLOR is a system for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination. Equal parts of Red and Blue together always make violet. The Color Wheels on this page should help you understand the relationships.


PRIMARY COLORS: are pure fundamental colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture. The primary colors are blue,red and yellow. All colors are created from these colors. Colors predominantly blue are "cool" toned colors...many hair colors are referred to as Cool - Icy ...which usually means have a 'blue base' or 'blue cast' to them. Colors with a predominance of red are "warm" toned colors ... on the flip side many hair colors are also referred to as "warm" in hair color meaning they have red base.




Blue is the darkest of the primary colors and is the only cool primary color. In addition to coolness, blue also brings depth or darkness to any color to which it is added.

Become An Educated Crib Colorist
It is completely necessary to understand COLOR THEORY in order to become a decent Crib Colorist.
First we have Primary hair Colors which are Red, Blue & Yellow. From Red-Blue-& Yellow we can make EVERY SINGLE COLOR on earth! Think about that. So that means that every hair color that exists, is made up of different variations of Red-Blue & Yellow . . .in varying amounts of each color. Therefore when you take away or add opposing colors it fixes or creates your desired hair color.

Take a few minutes and begin hearing some facts about color theory. Let them absorb and we will talk about the subject again.

Red is the medium primary color. Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appear lighter. Red added to yellow colors will cause them to become darker.

Yellow is the lightest of the primary colors. When you add yellow to other colors, the resulting color is lighter and brighter in appearance.

When all 3 colors are present in equal proportions, the resulting color is BLACK! It helps to think of hair colors in terms of their relative proportions of primary colors. NEUTRAL BROWN, for example, has the primary colors in the following proportions: blue --- B, red --- RR, yellow---YYY.

hang in there . . . don't want to put anyone to sleep..........

Secondary Colors: a color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors...secondary colors are: green, orange and violet .

Blue + Yellow = Green
Red + Yellow = Orange
Red + Blue = Violet




Tertiary Colors is an intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. Tertiary colors include blue-green, blue-violet,red-violet,red-orange,yellow-orange, and yellow-green. Natural looking hair color is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors.

Last one! and this is the one that saves your butt every time!
my fav...

Complementary Colors are a primary and secondary colors positioned opposite each other on the color wheel. The colors of the BLOGGER website are complementary and many logos and insignias because they "pop". Complementary colors include:

blue........and orange

red..........and green

yellow ....and violet


This where they come in handy...  

Complementary colors NEUTRALIZE each other . When formulating hair color, you will find that it is often your goal to emphasize or distract from skin tones or eye color or to NEUTRALIZE or refine unwanted tones in the hair. Understanding complementary colors will help you choose the appropriate tones to accomplish that goal.


A very common problem, so that you can "picture" this in your mind.... which should help you understand it.


Ever seen a bleached blond who didn't leave the bleach on long enough??? and its this horrid shade of YELLOW , its a very common problem. If you take that head of hair and purchase what is called a "toner" I have always used the analogy of a "NYLON" to my clients . When you shove your arm into a pair of nylons you can still see your arm it just has a "see-thru" cast to it....? correct?? the cast is whatever color "nylon" you chose.

Same with Toners, you can "see" thru them.
So with the very YELLOW bleached blond hair....
WHICH color toner would you track down?
To NEUTRALIZE the YELLOW . . . . . .??? ? ? ?
Look at the color wheel.......................
which color NEUTRALIZES --Yellow ................follow the color wheel ............where??............opposite side.............
Violet.
Violet based Toner.
A COOL BASED VIOLET toner,will knock that yellow out of the ball park! So NO MORE BRASS! ! ! 


Fun and Games
The missing primary color in this game is what you would use to neutralize the unwanted tone.
Find the color to neutralize the following:
Orange ?
Green ?
Violet ?

Really spend time trying to learn Color Theory  . . .one day, I promise it will just click, as I have watched all my assistants learn over the years.





August 7, 2013

The Color Wheel is a World Of Hair Color Solutions!

A lot of you have continued to have problems . . . . .understanding and conquering your problems with DURP. Which is why I am going to bring you another Bloggers's interpretation of the subject, maybe hearing it from a different POV it will help. Please ask questions at the end if you still don't understand - 

NO QUESTION IS A BAD QUESTION . . . please ask them in the group that is what it is there for!

World of Color

The Color Wheel  

                       
The color wheel, sometimes called the color star or circle,is an important tool used to manipulate color. (we have a hair related Color Wheel that you can purchase for a reasonable price )... As the subtractive color model is being used here, the primary colors are cyan, magenta and yellow.....or Blue-Red & Yellow. However, as pure cyan and magenta are difficult to achieve, the nearest colors, blue and red, are used. Most artists adopt this color palette, with red, yellow and blue as the primary colors.By combining these primary colors, the secondary colors become green (blue + yellow), orange (red + yellow) and violet (red + blue). 

These can be arranged in a six-segment circle to form the color wheel .......see the image  -----When  exactly the same intensity of color is combined from the opposite side in the color wheel, they cancel each other out. Different strengths of color intensity will have a more subtle effect. So as you see in this graphic the purple and yellow are moving to the middle - where it is WHITE or they have cancelled each other OUT !   For example, adding violet to a predominantly yellow tone creates a mix of color that

absorbs the yellow wave-length of the light spectrum. 

This is particularly useful to the hairdresser and is often referred to as a complementary color.
 indicated on the left (green, blue, violet) are referred to as secondary colors ors on the right   (yellow, orange, red) are called 
The Color Wheel in Modern Hairdressing
The color wheel has evolved with modern hairdressing practice in order to fit in with the color systems and terminology in use today. To this end, different names are used for some of the colors.
fashion colors. The latter are brighter, glossier and more popular in today's fashions. So far, neutral colours have not been discussed. These include all the tones that are considered natural hair colours. Natural hair colour is a mix of chromatic colour (pure colours found within the colour wheel) and achromatic colour (black, white and the resulting grey tones). Within the colour wheel model neutral colours theoretically exist at the centre of the wheel.

The Color Wheel in Modern Hair Coloring

The color wheel has evolved with modern hair styling practice in order to fit in with the color systems and terminology in use today. To this end, different names are used for some of the colors.

 These are more in keeping with the actual result of adding, for example, a blue tone to the hair.
The result in this case would be a toned-down matt finish, not bright blue hair! 

Yellow = Gold
Orange = Copper
Red/Purple = Violet
Blue/Olive/Green = Matt


So what Sarah and I are trying to do is.........to get you all the base colors of the hair color lines we carry because if you can find a color or Toner with the OPPOSITE color of the one that is giving you the hard time.....like a Blue (or Cyan) Base for a Blorange tone, you would have your solution to the recently vey famous BLORANGE problems many of you are having. I am very excited with all the new Schwartzkopf Hair Colors we have and are acquiring in the near future.

Won't that be nice ?

Check out these New hair colors AND these Highlift Blondes PLUS  the E-O is a Blond Booster which you can add to the highlift for 1 additional Level of Lift of the hair  !




Be sure to join our Group so you may begin learning how to care for your own hair's health and hair's color.........

We have a whole new section added to the store regarding the new BLONDES from them. 
 This is the first of some new unique Hair Colors and I have used them personally and am thoroughly impressed 


Schwartzkopf's colors are completely and utterly 
TO  DIE  FOR  .  .  .  .


a

a