Slices Versus Highlights Demo OR Ribbons of Light

BABY-LIGHTS or Ribbons of LIGHT

Application & Kit!

 

I feel everyone should take a look at this version of "Slices" so you understand what a SLICE is compared to a HIGHLIGHT ! 

 

Now, the way they are done in this DEMO is not how I would suggest doing them. I wanted to show an exaggerated version to show you the 'technique'. they are too light on too dark of hair, but please this is trying to show you how they lay differently than highlights and hopefully you can see how simple they are to add a few thin ones to your own hair.

Now, in Jenifer Anniston's hair, she has dozens of these only much thinner and using a multiple of colors.In her hair or for that look you would use 

FOR EXAMPLE:

• ILLUMINA 8/69 + 40Volume
• Koleston Perfect 10/16 + 40 volume
• Framesi US/A + Booster + 40 Volume
• Blondor Cream Lightener + 10 Volume

Babylights - DEMO

6 FOILS + BLEACH = using SLICES

We will call her Holly for the sake of discussion

Holly needs to deal with how much gas costs, and the fact that she lives in a town that has no good Colorists. She is tired of the brown hair and now has Killer Strands to help. She saw, that the professional Creme Bleach in the Killerstrands Store was the trick to not damaging her hair... there are conditioners and lipids added to creme bleach - she read, which sounds a lot more forgiving...added to that the moisturizers and conditioners that will come with the developer that comes with. This way my hair will be in the best condition possible when done. I can do it............. it cannot be that hard.

We will only be doing the one side of the head as we did the other side with another Demo a while ago.

I tried very hard to make this parting look exactly like a piece of apple pie, that should be your trick. She told me to make sure I parted the triangle all the way to the very back of my head and in the exact middle. That way I can put one of my slices of light in the back, on both sides, . . . . it will be in the back of my head and I should be able to do it myself with my rear-view mirror's I have set up on my walls. I've tried it once before and it worked pretty easy. The piece in the back is really skinny so its easy.

This is the Creme bleach lightener - I bought and saw on Killerstrands Color Clinic  I want to do all I can to protect my hair and its condition, I have been pretty bad to my hair in the past couple years.......... I need to make up for that (ssh!)

OK - here are the foils I bought too, I didn't care about the color, I cared about the fact that they were embossed and that made them not slip and being as I don't know what I am doing I wanted to take away "that" from the difficulty of doing foils for me. You can ask for a few foils when you buy the Creme Bleach. They were so much easier to use than most. Now, you absolutely MUST make the edge that I am showing you. Fold it once and then again....a very thin fold as you can see... that fold helps the color from leaking out.

The very first parting needs to be made to part OFF the hair surrounding the face so that it is left out. Leaving it the color the hair is , in my case I wanted it to be brown so I didn't have a weird light blond stripe right against my face. That would look funny I thought, when you see me at the end you can decide.

See how super thin the very first slice of hair I take is??? I had a hard time taking the picture and showing you at the same time but I think you can see. Its less than 1/8 of an inch ! I place that first foil very close to the slice of hair, notice that so when you do it you will do it the same. I had bought a mannequin and practiced on her for a while, it was fun so... I didn't care -- I wish they would have taught us this when we were in high school. 

Remember when we had HOME EC.? I think we should have sewing, cooking and hair color. Why Not I wonder? More people I know would rather color their hair, than cook. 

Maybe it should be the other way around. . . >>............but it isn't !

Notice, where I place the foil and where i begin to paint the creme bleach...Do not put the lightener ON the fold - - - and why do I do this? I learned my lesson, all bleaches and all hair colors ...."swell" when they are processing, which means they grow and the last thing Notice you want is the bleach leaking out of the end ...as it will make FUGLY spots on the hair that you will not like .... so be very careful how far "in' you put the color.

This is too close - I wanted you to see what is too close....just a tiny bit on the right side> see it??...so I took the foil off and re-did it...but I didn't photograph the re-do . . .

Just be aware that happens ...

if its too close to the fold then re-do it....but that's a lot harder to maneuver so try very hard to be very careful at the fold.

Finally I have the first foil done and am closing it up. Fold it in half - - first. Then fold the sides in....

Now am leaving "that much" of the hair OUT OF THE FOIL >>>> about 3/4 " so there is some of the brown in between each foil . One of the biggest problems I see is Stylists who just won't leave the natural color out of the foils.... so there is variation. Again this is an exaggerated version.

The same very thin parting. . . which is the "SLICE" of hair...appropriately named once I figured out what I was doing.

The same pattern is repeated basically all the way up this side of the hair. Now something she taught me that I did not pick up on myself... when I am using bleach, I can time it so it all ends up 'done' at the same time. Like here for example... if you are not fast, mix one small amount of bleach for this side....and mixed the creme bleach with 20 Volume { another good part of ordering from Killer Color Clinic - you can ask for whatever volume of developer you want - i got 1/2 -- 20 Volume & 1/2 -- 40 Volume} . Now to make it so the 2 sides end up "done" at the same time...[like making a big dinner!] 

I mixed up another small batch of Creme bleach with 40 Volume for the other side. Remember 40 Volume work twice as FAST as 20 Volume - - it is NOT twice as strong - it is all the same the only difference is "TIME"....so doing the other side with 40 Volume - makes it so both sides are at the same lightness at the same time - it was perfect !

This was also too close, and I took a DRY Q-Tip and wiped this one off on the fold....so it wouldn't leak. I used a bigger brush and had a harder time!

Again, see how thin the hair is for the slice? Remember that, thinness is perfectness in SLICES

Another slice to be made. . as my trip up the side of the head continues. Make my partings clean and straight its important

Another Slice of light . . .

Applying the bleach and 20 Volume . . . . .

Closing the 3 foils up and continue on . . .

As you go up the side - - see how the width of the slice narrows? ? The last one is not even 1 inch wide!

Refresh the bleach midway up by taking a small squirt of 20 Volume and mixing it in to the mixture

Be sure you keep the angle of each foil correct so that your foils sit like this and end up over

the eyeball, if your foils end up any other direction at all then something is wrong. Be sure to check 

Now, remember do this in a warm room

>> When the foils are done and that is so individual, you will have to determine "how long" yourselves.

>> Take the foils out, and rinse completely untill all traces of the bleach are gone....

>> Lightly shampoo with SLS-Free Shampoo -- Rinse -- towel dry hair....The method of

>> Apply an equalizer ( we have a new one on the way!) let set on hair for 5-50 minutes 

>> Rinse & apply Detangler or THRIVEN or whatever your regimen is

I always apply THRIVEN after using Bleach, it is the single best conditioner and after-treatment in addition to our new Equalizer coming out. You never know you colored your hair when you follow up with THRIVEN.

*** Then Blow Dry

Well, this is your results . . . after 6 Foils - - - Creme Lightener + 20 Volume and 40 Volume and is called Slices of Light or BABY-LIGHTS KIT.  I wanted you to see how to use foils that was easy and works with straight hair. This is not how you should apply foils with curly hair....the pattern would be wrong.

You can change it , I just wanted to point out what I was doing. See how its brown next to my face then - - next to that - - there is a blond slice? I think it looks too fake to have the blond right on the face.

In my opinion ( remember this is just me) I don't like the stripey look, but if I was to blend the colors you would not see how the color in the foils came out. Now if you used various colors, and a couple more foils you would have the colors of someone named "ANNISTON" !
Here is the side I wanted you to see the "6" Slices . . . see the tiny one - - in the back which is why you do not need to do the back of your hair, it is taken care of with the front parting - - how perfect is that? ?!?
I did the same thing they do in all the big magazines. . . I did the blow dry all cool when I had the hair color I liked!
"Isn't it weird and cool all at the same time how much difference I made with just 6 foils! Its not highlights and KILLER CHEMIST says she is not exactly fond of this technique ( using just 1 color) either but I think it rocks . . ."

that's the good part about taste - - we all have it and its all 'different"

one can use multiple colors - -

FINAL VIEW of the look is pretty gorgeous. . . what do you think?

The 6 Foil Transition using Slices of Lights

Remember a BlowDry can change things more than a color, more than a shampoo 

Lots Of You Want Perfectly Platinum Hair Lately ! !

Listen, the most gorgeous transition in the world is taking someone with BLACK hair all the way through the entire spectrum of color - beginning with BLACK HAIR and removing ALL signs of pigment.......ending up with the absolute gorgeous color : PLATINUM HAIR . It has always been my absolute most favorite application to do. Most Stylists hate it, but that is because they do not know how to get PLATINUM hair, they can only achieve Yellowy/Brass  and to do that is not rewarding AT ALL.

It takes a lot of dedication, a lot of patience and a LOT OF OIL BLEACH LIghtener to apply the correct amount of times, in order to achieve Platinum.

What is every hair Stylists' and every CRIB COLORISTS' main fault when trying to achieve Platinum hair color? ? ? ?  

• NOT Applying Enough Applications. Unless you are a VIRGIN Level 8-9, you will need multiple applications of Oil Lightener always lightening the lengths FIRST - then the base - LAST. Oil Lightener means: Lightener in the Oil which is then added to Oil in the Creamy Oil Base. Make the investment and purchase our Oil Bleach Kit, it is worth every teeny tiny penny.
• Be sure you read every Post on this Blog that deal with both going Platinum. . . .

Pitch Black Asian Hair Turned Snow White


a bit of a side note here . . . . . . . . .
a Salon trade magazine ran a pertinent article on Taking Asian Hair.......... Blond. Its funny, when I'm working on a post, I will see a million things along the same line ... in the weirdest places....Send out good energy . . . it WILL come back to you

anyway . . . .

Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japans Harajuka district and the tweens there. While practically needing dynamite to get Asian hair - - blond , super blond is the hottest color to have. SILVER & PASTELS are very popular.

That was printed in our top Salon magazine. I have a couple of my own comments towards her theory of bleaching Asian Pitch black hair in that manner:

• When bleach is applied the majority of its lifting ( Lightening) ability is done in the first 55 minutes...it still works for another hour or 2- but at such a snails slow pace that it is worth it to take the first application off rinse - INTENSIVE......RINSE....DRY. RE- apply a brand new batch! ...
• I discovered if you rinse and re-apply a brand new batch, the process is much more effective. Re-applying a NEW batch, helped speed the process a long.  I f you REAPPLY (approx) 3 times in one day (using our Oil Lightener Kit ONLY!!!) .  You will be very close to perfectly platinum!
• Once you remove the hair color (if needed) you may use 30 Volume on the ends with the first batch if hair was a Level 1-2 3 and it's needed - then OK go-for-it!
• You can get an Asian -- Blond in one day, is my theory - if you use my tricks. I've done it many times, and with nicely conditioned hair, as well. The most important trick to accomplishing this....is so the hair remains in superb condition, is the use of ONLY an : OIL LIGHTENING KIT
• If you have put your hair through too much in one day.... wait a week. Do that very last bleaching a week later and then apply the toner.... the best time to apply a toner is when the hair is freshly bleached.

I see no reason to take 5 days to bleach hair. I've heard of a few people doing it over 2 or even 3 days but never...5. If you follow my directions you won't have to do that either.

You can only tone blonde bleached hair........remember that.

The process needs to be called the BLEACH & TONE Process...ALWAYS always Tone bleached hair. ...........................Did I say..to bleach toned hair? Good.


This Asian girl has Red Ribbons in her hair,
The process begins with bleached "ribbons" { they are 1/4"-1/2" pieces of hair} ,(which do not need to be white,- frozen butter is fine) rinse, bright Semi permanent red applied to the bleached pieces.


I put this in here to remind you of the Levels hair lightens.... With Asian Hair the first bleach may only get the hair to the RED/BROWN Level....its a lot more resistant than caucasian hair, the First bleach on caucasian hair will get to the Orange/Gold or Gold Level {most likely}.
......see why there is a lot of gold and Yellow blond's walking around ?? 
It is the single stage where hair ( anyones hair) get stuck....as it goes through the lightening stage.
From talking to a lot of you I can see the biggest problem with most -- is hesitation with putting the bleach on more than once. I can tell you from 18 years of hair in Hollywood and MALIBU....I never bleached anyone's hair once. 

Except Trevor. Remember Trevor? He is a Natural Level 9! Super Rare.






See the different "tones" of Blond here??? 

Underneath they are bleached the perfect, 'pale yellow/white'.......... then a different color TONER or BOOST AND BURST is applied.

Above has a Pale Golden Blond Toner, The second has our ZUMA BURST (tiny bit of copper in blond) . . . . the small photo below is Platinum Or "white toner" .... I used to call it the Marilyn White toner............Now can you see and thoroughly understand TONER??
Tomorrow you will learn to apply one. The Directions will double as directions for semi permanent Color  (Purchase BOOST & BURST in Violet Pilot in BOOST & Breaking Bad Blue in BURST, use it right after you have lifted the hair light enough and you will have sparkling platinum white hair.

I am going to go over the Application procedures for EVERY SINGLE type of Color

Using a HEAD SHEET ( piece of paper w/ 4 heads drawn) so you will know

• where to start,
• how large to make the partings
• width of the partings for application of color

all the particulars, so your feel more secure when your buying color and developer separate - - - trying to get you all away from KITS!!!! . 

Is it working???
HOW DOES THAT SOUND?

OMBRE HairColor Technique (Paint Drips) - Brief Demo

This is a photo by photo display of how to accomplish the OMBRE technique, which I can now see is not going to be nearly as easy as I thought to describe & teach on the Web. 

Depending on the level you are and the level you want the color to be...will determine the volume of developer you use with either the bleach or tint. Here is another example where "bleach" comes to the rescue. Bleach goes in the foils to lighten the pieces, do NOT worry about it, its only a small portion of the hair. Remember your new mantra: " I Must Learn To Love Bleach "...." I must learn to love Bleach"...!! 

Part of the specialty of this technique is "blending" them and "placing" them so it looks natural and fun.

Here is the front large Paint Drip....parted away from rest of hair, then applied bleach & 40 volume ( the hair on this mannequin is pretty dark

Fold up the Foil and seal . . . the heat that is generated from being folded up - helps the bleach work faster/better/etc. on a real person the heat from the scalp helps

Look at the paint drips on the beautiful girl above.... That look is very easy to get and very fashion forward




See how I part away the hair. Being sure to keep the hair you do NOT WANT COLORED, away from the foil. You are using the foil to keep together the hair and the bleach, so it may work together. Separated from the rest of the hair, is what creates a lot of the cool looks in hair, I hope to show you that in stages this week.

I am showing this for one reason only, (stubborn hair only).... generally the rule is to NOT use heat with foils and bleach.....The rule is NO > Do not use heat on bleach.
I will be perfectly honest and admit there are just times when you will need to mildly ( NOTICE THE WORD MILDLY ! )warm-up the foil.....especially in the cool of the winter!

There is stubborn hair, there is hair that is so resistant not only heat won't work -- sandpaper won't either!
As in everything there are exceptions to the rule... and that is exactly how it is with hair....

REAL human heads with real human hair are not like that, unless there is artificial color on it you are trying to remove. Normally you will watch the hair turn very fast, no heat needed ...Just open the foils, smooth the bleach off with your finger and look at the color of the hair. Yes, this takes experience but, you might as well start now. Be sure to Re-Apply the Lightener on wear you scraped it off....

Experiment with one small piece of hair underneath all of your hair, to just see how it works. There will be no harm done on one little piece of hair that can be covered up, if need be.
Stay tuned!

Happy Holiday's from Us All ....Alex, Haley, Betty, Adem, Nikki & KC

.

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #5

The Ribbon Technique as demonstrated by Killer Chemist for you to replicate

pink foils =bleach - blond

blue =4BRV- dark brown-red-violet

orange = 6RRV -red-red-violet

basically there are 6 thin slices of color that's it!

After the development time has been met . . .peek & check inside to be sure things look O.K . {may take you a while to know what you're looking for. . . . but start lookin'!}

Take foils out... one at a time and rinse over sink

Rinse . . . Rinse . . Rinse

This is what the 2 first bleached pieces look like . . . and I refer to when I say "frozen butter" ;-/

rinse all the foils clean of product and till water runs clear

Apply INTENSIVE to your hair and let soak in for 20 minutes(min). re adjust's hairs pH - sets color - yada yada

Rinse INTENSIVE out. . . .

the results are right around the corner

Yee Haw

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #4

Foil Work and Color Choices in applying Ribbons to Your Hair.

An easy technique applied to your own hair by yourself, I know...I used to do it all the time.

When doing foil work in front of a class we use different color foils for different colors within

the foils.....which I have done here, to make it easier for you to picture. In the

Blue foils = Lightener /bleach & 25 Volume

Pink Foils = Level 4 BRV + 17 Vol.

Orange Foils = Red 6RRV + 20Vol


I always try to use at least 2 - 3 or 4 Levels between each color when you want the color to stand out......the other way if you want it subtle..
This brown circle is the top of the head, I get many comments asking to explain myself in many different methods and ways. So here is another way...
i don't know that you can really see the method to my madness, without this !! Parting is a "key" to Ribbons and Slices