Strand + Allergy Test to Hair Color and Exactly How To Do Them !

Do a strand test

To avoid any embarrassing 'surprises' or weeks of hat wearing make sure you make time for a strand test before going crazy with any new changing color. It won't take long and will ensure you have chosen the fiercest color. Follow our top tips for stress free dyeing;
Rubber gloves are a must!  
Oxidative hair color and direct dyes (crazy colors) may only be semi-permanent but don't let that fool you! If you get dye on your skin it will stain, and nobody wants their hands to be the same color as their hot new hair so BEWARE!

Safety first, okay, so you have 2 options for testing.

To test the desired color of hair only

Cut off a small piece of hair (If you do choose to cut a strand to test, please note: allergies and skin reactions to dye are not being tested)

To test the desired color of hair only (recommended - color result only)

Choose a hidden section of hair to work with

Next, apply 1 tablespoon of your Crazy Color dye to your sample. Always apply the dye to wet hair for optimum results. (ps. Always evenly coat the strand to maximize full colour coverage, unless it's the tie-dye look you are after of course!)

Let the dye soak in for approx 15 minutes (ps. if your hair is thick or coarse you may benefit from leaving it on for around 30 minutes) before thoroughly rinsing the sample to reveal new color.

Ps. Remember it can take up to 24 hours for any allergic reactions to surface. If you experience no reactions you are free to go crazy and color!

Do a sensitivity test (allergies only)

  Firstly, clean a small area of skin for testing, some people often do it in the inside of the arm or behind the ears as these areas are relatively discreet.
  Squeeze a small drop of dye onto the cleaned area and leave it on the skin for as long as possible – we recommend 48 hours!

Allergies are very rare, but if during the test period you notice any abnormal reactions such as itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area,
If no reaction occurs you are good to go and can color until you heart is content 

Enjoy One and All


KC's Malibu Summer 2015 Collection : Hair Color + Coloring Tools

 Hair Color can tell a story, 
check out this one. . . . just a little color and cut to depict the beach which  miss so much.......

 a little photo expose of my favorite place, the beach....which is just a few miles down the road here. Can't go there anymore because if skin issues, but I spent so much of my youth there and this is  an Ode to the 'bu..............Malibu that is





I hope everyone has had a wonderful weekend and Sunday 
I am going to shoot a Demo teaching you how to put a few thermal wraps into your hair to give it a little light later on this week so hang tight....

I just discovered the best little Coloring Tool....the Color Thermal Wraps by Product Club they 
  • have different sizes/quantities/colors & lenths
  • create their own heat ( helps blondes past brass stage)
  • only need one fold, where foils are needed 
  • incredible time saver .

The SOAP CAP + its Advantages, When Re-Touching Your Color

 I've been asked about Soap Caps for the beginning when the web was new and I was the only one educating the public on professional techniques........ for some odd reason a couple people screwed them up and I felt forever responsible.....when that happens I always delete the Post and make note in my file for Topics : TO NEVER-EVER DISCUSS !
But with all the info out there now, I'm sure someone has hit on the topic a lot of times.... nut Alas - - - - here is the Sassoon description of how and why to do one.

Lets say you are in our Group and learning how to color your hair the correct way. You have done all my recommendations for your predicament to remove all or most of your old hair color -- prior to beginning your new formula and proper hair color application. Your hair begins to feel light as a feather and most every single person says to me, " wow I didn't realize how junked up my hair was, its starting to feel like normal hair again - it feels so light and soft " ! I cannot tell you how many times I have heard that exact sentiment.... (or a light variation of it for 9 years & hundreds of Consultations).

So now you are ready to re-Color with your new formula.
Once you re-color, you will color all the hair the first time ...meaning all the hair
Then every 5-6 weeks all you will have to do is re-color the base (roots).
You process the roots 60 minutes so at 60 minutes you do a professional trick which refreshes the color on your lengths called the SOAP CAP  - ( a term that I have always disliked. It doesn't make sense in my head. It may to you - but not me)
Now you may only have to do a Soap Cap every other time, I only do it 3 times a year but I have so much hair + being sick -- makes it very hard... so it should be a breeze for all of you.

The trick is what we call a Soap Cap. When it gets to 50-55 minutes of processing the straight color on your roots or the entire hair (the 1st time)  this is how you will start. First.............

  • with gloves on
  • take all the hair and flop it down in the kitchen sink
  • mush it all together on top of head, using save movements as if you are shampooing hair .
  • Once all smushed together 
  • take a 1/4 Cup of bottled water, pour over entire head.......where Color is mainly
  • sprinkling every where. . . . lightly. . .  til gone
  • begin shampooing the color/water mixture together = this forms a colored lather - making sure you get all hair in the heavy lathery mix.
  • Cover with plastic Cap (which you may request with hair Color orders)
This is the SOAP CAP. Now let that soapy-Colorful hair mix sit & process for 5-10 minutes.

  • Put head under luke-warm
  •  water and rinse 
  •  thoroughly...meaning 4-5 minutes longer than you think, there should be ZERO feel of any hair color goop at all in hair.... it should be squeaky clean
  • Shake excess water out of hair, apply Killerstrands INTENSIVE,
  •  pH Balancer & locks in color - the longer you can leave this on the better - I try to plan either leaving  INTENSIVE OR THRIVEN on over night after coloring ....sleeping with a Terry Turban or Sleep cap. I'm telling you if you do that you will be so damn impressed with your hair color and so will everyone else. 
  • If you have loads of damage then leave GLEAM on braid the hair and leave it on overnight. APRIL the manager for the Group recently went from black hair to Platinum and her hair really took a tole. I sent her some Gleam and after trying Intensive and Gleam overnight, which helped a LOT............IN one night she said her hair felt completely back to normal after using Gleam and she wondered why I never wrote a post about the wonders of GLEAM - OVERNIGHT ??? Gleam truly works miracles because hair is made of lipids and Gleam is 100% lipids with every single addition strengthening hair...
  • aloe vera oil
  • 2 Vitamin E's
  • Chamomile extract.................its just the bomb.....if you have damaged hair
  • but back to the subject ! !

Now refreshing the ends when you only Re-touch the roots -every 5-6 weeks goes as follows:
  • Re-touch the hair by only coloring NEW-growth with color. Then to do the Soap Cap....... Again you can re-fresh the ends with new hair color - only when needed.
  • At 55 minutes of color processing the new-growth
  • Flop hair in sink
  • Take a 1/2 Cup of bottled water - sprinkle on hair color
  • Begin smooshing all together.......the color with the water added will lather, which is what you want
  • work into lather adding a little more water to mixture if needed - the least amount of water the better, it should feel like a very heavy lather
  • smoosh together and pile on top of head & clip.
  • Apply plastic or shower cap
  • Process 10 minutes
  • Rinse with water - no shampoo for 2 days - there are cleaning agents in all hair color for this exact purpose.
  • Shampooing anytime in the first 48 hours will fade new color substantially. Do NOT do it. Your hair will feel clean
  • Always follow with "Killerstrands INTENSIVE" a pH balancer and color lock and you are GOLDEN


The Level System : what in the Hell, Do All Those Numbers Mean?

I am finding there is a lot of confusion, and mixed up definitions of the numbers involved in the Level System coding on the sides of boxes and within the Level System. I'd like to clear up and clarify some of them.

First of all the Level System which is a system: defined "by numbers" is actually meant to be made "easier" by using those numbers. There are many times I feel they have just traded numbers for Letters and it truly hasn't helped much of anything....but I still teach it and feel it is the best tool we have for defining a 'system' for calculating hair color to be used on your hair in the correct manner.

It is referred to as the Level System of Hair coloring, beginning at Level 1 (Black) ---  all the way to Level 12 (platinum)....with all other colors sprinkled and spread throughout the middle of the two.

Here is the chart of a level 1 thru a Level 12 (after high-lift was added to the system)

Level 1 being Black and Level 12 being Platinum colored hair with all the other colors in between in a gradual scale of dark to light, or light to dark whichever way you choose to look at it.
{ this is a Wella chart -- Wella runs a Level darker which means a Level 2 is a Level 1 - basically}

The same holds true in the Tones.
Do you understand the difference between the two?
Levels are the lightness and darkness of hair color

Tones which are created by the way light falls on a object. Hair color tones can be put into three standard categories: warm, cool, or neutral. When I discuss color, or if you are choosing a color from a swatch book, the tones are often indicated with letters.......... standard examples of color tones are:

N = 0 = Neutral. Neither warm, nor cool. 
B = 7 = Brown (neither warm or cool)

Cool Tones

A: Ash............ 1
B: Beige......... 4
B: Blue........... 2
G: Green .......

V: Violet ........ 6
B: Brown........ 7

Warm Tones
C: Copper ( in the red series colors) OR Pearl..... 8 ( pearl means blue-violet based )
G: Gold ........ 3

R: Red ......... 5
( or Blorange) my own assessment of a bleached blond that pulls orangish

(not all company's use the exact same numbers for tones, but I find that each year they are all conforming more and more towards Wella who is really the Grandaddy of all hair color!

 Lets review what a few box ends look like........... so you understand this a little clearer

Here is Wella Koleston Perfect tube & the side of the box.
This color is used for excellent gray coverage, beautiful brow color and an all around beautiful hair color line. I recommend it for hard to cover gray and for battling the Blorange tones, none of us like ( the Matt series /2). Its the only line that does have a MATT series.

The number on the left side of the 'dash' or 'slash'  (EITHER ONE)..... is the Level of color that is in that tube of color. So this tube of color is a Level 6 ....( all colors & tones in this tube are a Level 5 because of Wella running a Level darker than all other lines)

The numbers on the right side of the dash or slash are...........the Tonal qualities within this tube of color. The one closest to the dash is the strongest , the next one being the lesser of the 2 tonal qualities.
Therefore in the above pictured tube is a Level 6 ( my favorite shade of brunette)  with a double shot of just STRAIGHT Brown tone. So no tones, either way no cool no warm....just straight up brown-brown-brown!  Unfortunately hair color has many gray areas that need to be learned by never expect it to be black and white I'm afraid.

Here is the color the above tube will be............. once applied and dried:

This tube from Wella's line Illumina color is listed as a 5/81...............
 So, for this color inside the tube is a Level 5 (I've found that Illumina, runs - only - about 1/2 Level darker)
and the tonal qualities are an "8" which is PEARL in this instance (Pearl has always been referred to as Blue Violet based which would fight any orange/blorange/gold & Brass Tones). Very handy for pretty much all of you! Then Ash which also fights the same tones, so this would be a very beautiful color for those of you with color that is stubborn in fighting those undertones. 
After its been a little while since coloring your hair -- does your hair pull any of those tones:
  • blorange
  • orange
  • brass
  • gold

if so then this is your color. You would want to add it to an appropriate Neutral if gray is also your enemy.

                                            This tube of color would look similar to this photo:

 The last tube is Color Touch 8/81 :

Color Touch is a Level 8 - 
8 = Pearl Tone
1 = Ash Tone

This is a great Toner in a Level 8 (7!) use either a 6 or 13 Volume which you would apply to a blond with brass or Blorange tones to it to BOTH...............
remove the annoying Tones 
and to add shine and strength to blonde's

which would look like this photo:

Splash-Lights Hair Color Technique Makes Nationwide TV Debut @ Baltimore Riots

Well, I wanted to bring the SPLASH LIGHTS technique
  to the forefront again...I think its a beautiful technique (no it should not be tried at home) - very subtle and easy to get out of.... but the main reason that I bring it to the forefront you will see at the very end and the last photo ! 

So check it out

and here is the very best SPLASHLIGHTS technique of the month..........and maybe of the year . . . .

 The Mom from the Baltimore Riots ! ! ! 
smackin' up her kid . . .   I just loved it and wish things weren't so touchy now-a-days, that's why kids don't respect parents (so much) any longer .... that was the 2nd best thing to come out of that disaster.



Increase Shine - Uses 6 & 13 Volume Developer


Ivory-Rose Color

Ivory-Rose Color
Shag hair cut!