The Level System : What Do All Those Numbers Mean?

I am finding there is a lot of confusion, and mixed up definitions of the numbers involved in the Level System coding on the sides of boxes and within the Level System. I'd like to clear up and clarify some of them.

First of all the Level System which is a system: defined "by numbers" is actually meant to be made "easier" by using those numbers. There are many times I feel they have just traded numbers for Letters and it truly hasn't helped much of anything....but I still teach it and feel it is the best tool we have for defining a 'system' for calculating hair color to be used on your hair in the correct manner.

It is referred to as the Level System of Hair coloring, beginning at Level 1 (Black) ---  all the way to Level 12 (platinum)....with all other colors sprinkled and spread throughout the middle of the two.

Here is the chart of a level 1 thru a Level 12 (after high-lift was added to the system)

Level 1 being Black and Level 12 being Platinum colored hair with all the other colors in between in a gradual scale of dark to light, or light to dark whichever way you choose to look at it.
{ this is a Wella chart -- Wella runs a Level darker which means a Level 2 is a Level 1 - basically}

The same holds true in the Tones.
Do you understand the difference between the two?
Levels are the lightness and darkness of hair color

Tones which are created by the way light falls on a object. Hair color tones can be put into three standard categories: warm, cool, or neutral. When I discuss color, or if you are choosing a color from a swatch book, the tones are often indicated with letters.......... standard examples of color tones are:

N = 0 = Neutral. Neither warm, nor cool. 
B = 7 = Brown (neither warm or cool)

Cool Tones

A: Ash............ 1
B: Beige......... 4
B: Blue........... 2
G: Green .......

V: Violet ........ 6
B: Brown........ 7

Warm Tones
C: Copper ( in the red series colors) OR Pearl..... 8 ( pearl means blue-violet based )
G: Gold ........ 3

R: Red ......... 5
( or Blorange) my own assessment of a bleached blond that pulls orangish

(not all company's use the exact same numbers for tones, but I find that each year they are all conforming more and more towards Wella who is really the Grandaddy of all hair color!

 Lets review what a few box ends look like........... so you understand this a little clearer

Here is Wella Koleston Perfect tube & the side of the box.
This color is used for excellent gray coverage, beautiful brow color and an all around beautiful hair color line. I recommend it for hard to cover gray and for battling the Blorange tones, none of us like ( the Matt series /2). Its the only line that does have a MATT series.

The number on the left side of the 'dash' or 'slash'  (EITHER ONE)..... is the Level of color that is in that tube of color. So this tube of color is a Level 6 ....( all colors & tones in this tube are a Level 5 because of Wella running a Level darker than all other lines)

The numbers on the right side of the dash or slash are...........the Tonal qualities within this tube of color. The one closest to the dash is the strongest , the next one being the lesser of the 2 tonal qualitties.
Therefore in the above pictured tube is a Level 6 ( my favorite shade of brunette)  with a double shot of just STRAIGHT Brown tone. So no tones, either way no cool no warm....just straight up brown-brown-brown!  Unfortunately hair color has many gray areas that need to be learned by never expect it to be black and white I'm afraid.

Here is the color the above tube will be............. once applied and dried:

This tube from Wella's line Illumina color is listed as a 5/81...............
 So, for this color inside the tube is a Level 5 (I've found that Illumina, runs - only - about 1/2 Level darker)
and the tonal qualities are an "8" which is PEARL in this instance (Pearl has always been referred to as Blue Violet based which would fight any orange/blorange/gold & Brass Tones). Very handy for pretty much all of you! Then Ash which also fights the same tones, so this would be a very beautiful color for those of you with color that is stubborn in fighting those undertones. 
After its been a little while since coloring your hair -- does your hair pull any of those tones:
  • blorange
  • orange
  • brass
  • gold

if so then this is your color. You would want to add it to an appropriate Neutral if gray is also your enemy.

                                            This tube of color would look similar to this photo:

 The last tube is Color Touch 8/81 :

Color Touch is a Level 8 - 
8 = Pearl Tone
1 = Ash Tone

This is a great Toner in a Level 8 (7!) use either a 6 or 13 Volume which you would apply to a blond with brass or Blorange tones to it to BOTH...............
remove the annoying Tones 
and to add shine and strength to blonde's

which would look like this photo:

Killer Chemist

B is for BURST & BOOST Your Way to Brass-free & Blorange-free Hair

Color Depositing Shampoos & Conditioners are the latest /hottest trend in hair & hair color categories. 
They have been around for decades and began in Great Britain where most of the best/brightest trends in hair & hair color originate.

But a fact that many of you may not know is that a good Colorist has been offering these all along to their 'jet set' clientele. Whether they travel for work or for fun .......there just is this huge trend to travel. When doing that no one wants to get their hair touched up in a foreign city. When Color enhancing conditioners are the solution. They help everyone get an extra 1-2 sometimes even 3 extra weeks out of their new color !

For redheads it is almost mandatory.... it is a well known fact that redheads fade quicker, and being one, I know it all too well. I have never colored for the gray I have always colored for the body it gives my hair. If you have never colored you just HAVE to try it for that reason alone. ( I would suggest either Schwarzkopf's Igora's Vibrance or Wella's Color Touch as a great beginning hair color).        

About a year ago the trend toward color depositing shampoos began to hit the bigger market places, and now its rockin and rollin I decided to bring my own twist out of the closet and sell it to the market place and that is so all of YOU can have a custom version of what soon will be in Target ! I'm sorry I say that sarcastically and then realize, oh shit, I bet that doesn't come through on the other side of this page. Please know I am just kidding half the time....and being California-tastically

Let me try to explain a little bit about them to everyone.
They really they have been around since I was in Beauty Academy, a very long time ago, in the age of the dinosaurs (! !)

It was developed initially for actresses going on location! Many times we would Color an actors hair a unique Color or they would just have the worst DURP in the world so at that time. . . there were no "purple/violet or lavender" shampoos one could purchase - the only way we could do it was to make them one ourselves. These actors could take these with them when they would go to outer Mongolia and shoot a movie for 7-8 months.  In those days we would simply: send clients home with their own custom colored conditioners.

 As far as Killerstrands own, BURST and BOOST  the Shampoo is a color safe, hydrating, sulfate, sodium chloride, paraben and gluten free formula that gently repairs and restores integrity of the hair as well as deposits a color of tint that you desire. We do offer a "custom" color for those of you that have something different in mind.

I've thought of T-shirts, if there is any interest let me know in the comments section


A is for Autumn Hair - the Road to Health and The Newest Trend to Knock 'Ombre' out of the Hairwaves!

"A" is for Autumn Hair ...... working on making it become healthy by Xmas and the newest  trend to overtake the Ombre color trend ( and I LOVE it!)
We will be going through the alphabet, just for a silly way to keep me 'on point' about writing consistent Posts for you this month. Lots of different facets go into this operation and sometimes The Blog is the last to get attention and I don't like that to happen.

 I apologize for being absent for a while, but am back and ready to go.... I'm just glad to be alive.  I will keep this up as I enjoy educating more than you know and have always felt this is one of the motivating factors that has kept me fighting.

In the Autumn people begin flocking to Salons across the country to get their hair darker, get shorter hair cuts or trims and chose more 'fall' or darker colors for their hair color! 

 Even here in L.A., where one can barely tell one season from another blondes go from light blonde to darker blond. We have a lot of girls strolling around with the new rose Gold Color. I'm not to sure you can call that fall color but in L.A. I suppose it is ;)

Even Crib Colorists begin changing, into the fall colors on hair color swatch charts . . . WHY? everyone becomes inspired by the gorge photos in glossy magazines & social media.  As far as what are smart changes...???  I believe the main project you should work on is the health of your hair. If your hair is not completely healthy & shiny .... it is time to work on that this month before Xmas. I promise you there is time, all you need is 4 products and I can almost will, continue using them for a long time & your hair will be transformed by the Holiday in December.  I am going to share with you a sentiment I receive over and over and maybe this will help you think about whether to try it or not. 

   '' The porosity of your hair is extremely important, in order for your hair to be healthy, strong, shining and hold color properly. If hair can't hold color well, then 6-7 days after its freshly colored ... it will begin to fade. Good porosity = Good Strength. Good Strength = Bold Hair Color for a longer period of time.  Good Porosity = Shiny Hair. Porosity is a very important quality for healthy shiny hair. Here's a blog post on porosity if you're not really sure what yours is:
 " Lastly... this recommendation is coming from me, (April) If you're having problems with your hair feeling awful and looking dry or frizzy, go to KC's store and pick up some Thriven, Intensive, and Gleam.  After you use the Thriven overnight a few times, you will already notice a huge difference.  Intensive is my absolute favorite conditioner on the planet.  You can use it daily and you will definitely want it for after you color your hair because it will put the pH back to normal.  And then Gleam is an oil that I use every day, just a bit on the ends.   I don't go a day without it.  And you will also use that right BEFORE you color your hair so that when your developer is processing your color, the oils will go into the strands right along with the color and make it nice and healthy. Gleam replaces Lipids missing which is what dry, dull hair needs to be repaired. "
I had platinum-white hair when I first found this group and it was fried. Super duper dry and frizzy and unmanageable.  I did all of the above and my hair has NEVER felt better.  I joke that it's as soft as a kitten now. lol.  Also, the shampoo train will help your hair feel soooo much better too.  The Malibu2000 packets are AMAZING.  "

 Because of this I have added a new Kit I call the "Threesome":  Thriven, Gleam & INTENSIVE .  Oh, and for a great price as well!. 

Also, another apology is due... I am trying to work more on the website & add some new lines and fix present mistakes. I discovered that a lot of the kits  of Killerstrands products were priced wayyy too high and am so . . . very. . . .sorry !  I've fixed 2 pages.......... so be sure you check those 2 new pages out so you can take advantage of these  big discounts in many spots + any time something like that happens I encourage you to point them out. You can always call or email 
( .

Also, if you need help with picking out a product, call - if we are on the other line we try to return phone calls within 24 hrs. if not right away. The only thing we won't do over the phone is a hair color consultation as that is more intricate and takes some time and photos need to be exchanged. Join our group for that for a little over a dollar a day.

  A is for Autumn,  the hippest new Color trend that I feel is going to be number 1 this fall ...... its called Splashlight :

Isn't that Amazing? I love it........   Fantastic........ check out our Pinterest page for even more photos!


 Splash Light
 puts a band of light around the head and
 I think it is the bomb and beautiful ! We called it the HALO technique at Sassoon, but whatever you call it, it is awesome.

Blue Skies to one and all....

Halloween Hair That Will Rattle Your Cage!

 I have to say.... it is just 'crazy' how much everyone has gotten into Halloween Hair.

 Every year when this month rolled around the kids from my daughters High School would begin stopping by and asking me what they thought we could do for their hair for Halloween.... we would come up with some ideas that were pretty cool but NOTHING like all of these gems. 

I mean WOW, we are accumulating some very talented hair stylists out there.  Congrats on blowing the house up....... 
hands down AWESOME hair!  

For Your Halloween Night enjoyment

Lots of gory and fun photos of Halloween Hair. . . .


Have a Happy and SAFE Halloween

There is no better day to have a surprise SALE on our color enhancing shampoo and conditioner series - Boos and BURST. It is rising and rising in popularity
For those of you that have stopped by and checked out all the photos we displayed today we are having a surprise 24 hour Sale on BOOST and BURST our color enhancing shampoo & conditioner series from Killerstrands hair.  20%OFF both of them for 24 hours !

The Sale begins NOW and 
               ends at 9PM Saturday night!

      Enter CODE:BOO20

KC and Staff!

New Addition with Every COLOR Purchase in the Killerstrands Store

I just had to have a little medical ER breather give me 2-3 days and I'll be coloring from all cylinders - but am back at it and have a great new free addition to the already complimentary 2 products we give out with every color purchase:

First off we already send 2 plastic medical measuring Cups that look exactly like these:

 They measure in tablespoons, CC's, ML's, Fluid Ounces,Grams & the maximum is 1 ounce. At the beginning of the Blog I reached out to the readers for a small measuring Cup and an ER Nurse responded. The funny part is, I thought I was ordering 1000 and I ordered 1,000,000 !! We still are working on that first batch!!! and may be till 2020 - ha ha! They are in sanitary shrink wrap and kept in the dark to keep the plastic fresh, if plastic can be fresh :(

When you measure by Volume (the cups) versus weight (a scale) -- use just the tiniest little bit less and you'll be perfect, if your a perfectionist like someone else in the vicinity of this Blog !

They are reusable so if you don't want them mention that, or if you want an extra one -- mention that. There is a terrific little "Notes" section at Check-out -- where you can write a little somethin-somethin.....!

Our next lovely freebie is our latex gloves, I never thought of this before.... but if there are enough latex-allergies, I would be happy to supply "whatever-the-other-kind is"! heehee  provided they are not cost prohibitive!..... K?


Now our newest and most useful complimentary tool, which I  know some of you are going to rear those heads of yours and the TINT BRUSH. There is a method to the madness behind the tint brush, there truly is....and I've talked about it before as well. 

Hair Color works the best when pressure is applied to the head as the color is applied, its why professional Colorists use tint brushes, we don't fancy ourselves Rembrandt's..........or we are not gluttons for punishment and don't use the bottle because we like to flex our ''professional muscles'' or look cool there is a scientific explanation. A good Colorist presses down on the base/hair as she applies the color to get excellent coverage and gray coverage. The Color gets in deeper in the hair cuticle and also provides a more EVEN color along with additional shine.

Now don't think it is going to just be extraordinarily different, but as you get better with it.... I believe you will start noticing the difference once you master your new Killer Tint Brush.

One last bonus its easier to use on oneself than on another, I can attest from experience now!

Have a Killer Day Everyone

I don't like ads every where, this would help, Thanks, KC & Staff!

Payment options