The End is Split, My Dear.......You should Give a Damn !

Split Ends ....  & the Silly Shampoo That Leads You To Believe everyone Has Been Working At The "Wrong-End-Of-The-Hair"...

Maybe they have :D

Heidi Klum is on this new TV commercial ??....... telling us that every hair product manufacturer has been working on the 'wrong' end of the hair....meaning the ends. 
I can tell you from experience that if you do not work on the ends especially for 'movie hair' like hers ... your hair will look like shit, my dear. I tell you I have been involved in so many of these commercials , yes, a while ago, but they haven't changed much - yet now they are lying even more) ! 

Still it just amazes how much these actresses lie through their teeth. I mean I just want one of them to stand up and say I would never use that drugstore crap. They are all so paranoid about their hair. So I call, BS, Miss Klum. From my sources she has been paid as little as $1 million dollars to say those words ( which took her maximum 8 hours and more like 4-6) ...and as much as $4 million. Do you believe her now?
Money is what talks here.
There is not 1 Hollywood Celebrity...........not Jennifer Garner, not Tina Fey, not who's that girl married to Ryan Reynolds....NOT 1 of them who has their bodyguards drive down to the local CVS and asks them to pick up a box of Color.....COME ON you do not believe them  do you??? 
Split Ends
Now this is a subject there is not a lot of info on - there truly isn't because it is pretty simple. I have seen a few commercials that would have you believe shampoo can prevent split ends, I also need to put my 2 cents in on that. The only way to deal with them is too cut the damn things off. There is this silly commercial that says split ends can be taken care of by shampoo --  shampoo is on your hair for what 2-3 minutes - maybe, max ? Something on your hair for 'minutes' cannot solve a whole lotta             anything, do not fall for that type of thing, ever. 
                                                                                                                " I don't need to give a damn...!"

Split ends occur ...
when the protective layer of the cuticle is removed from the tip of the strand. As a result, the hair splits into two or three strands, each two to three centimeters long, at its tip.

Some of the causes of split ends?
  • no haircuts
  • hair being cut with a razor
  • having fine hair
  • hot tools
  • putting hair back with cheap & damaging elastics
  • and the number 1 cause today???  Flat Irons
The ways to prevent split ends? Get your hair trimmed regularly, by regularly I mean ...every 6-8 weeks for shorter hair - every 10-12 weeks for long hair. With the way split ends are formed, I had certain clients that just had them way more than others. I started with oils many many years before Argan Oil appeared..........which seemed to sway the mind of every hair care buyer in the world. 

In my own opinion I have tried cheap oils... Hell 15 years ago I was trying sunflower oil from home and while it seemed to mask the split ends somewhat - when I began playing around with oils that are heavy in Vitamins and more rare - that is when the real changes started happening. Those people of Morocco must absolutely love the United States. There are other oils that work OK, but the truly miraculous results come from finer oils and oils that are worn in a braid or bun over night. 

Killerstrands Gleam and is one of our Top Sellers for more than 10 years !!! 10 years oils have been around in Malibu, California. You MUST try Gleam, 1 small bottle will give you the perfect tester so you can see the magic this one little Oil produces.

You need to cut split ends off as soon as you notice them . . . they will just keep splitting up the hair strand and if you didn't want your hair cut, you are going to be super sad when it continues splitting up that strand shorter and shorter. Think about your regular maintenance routine and try to identify why your hair is splitting. Hopefully you will notice what is the reason, the list is pretty defining.

Do you believe Miss Klum now?
Please look at every celeb that does TV commercials and know their paycheck is minimum $1 million. That is all that possesses them and frankly I have had my entire close family torn apart due to money and the desire to have more than the sibling next to them. I don't respect any celeb that does that and you shouldn't either.  my kids and I have always loved and respected Reece Witherspoon and most recently we saw her in one of these despicable ads. There is an actor I became friends with years ago and many times he would get offered 1-4 million dollars to sell something he didn't believe in and all of it could be made in 1 day. 

He's never been able to turn them down.....he's worth millions, I mean how many millions is enough to make you at least say no to  something you don't believe in and know that people will buy this hair product, even though you wouldn't use it in a million years?

I still believe that Gleam and a haircut 6 times a year on the low end and every 6 weeks on the high is the magical mystery tour ride to no split ends                 

Over a Half a Million People Have Read This Post . . . .Don't You Think You Should Too? Sulfate-Free Shampoo & Why All the Uproar ? ?

I just noticed today that over a half a million people have now read this Post....there is a good reason for that and I hope you will take the time to read it .
Over 557,771 people took the time to read this, maybe you should too ! 

Because the health of your hair ....and your hair staying ON YOUR HEAD AND NOT SHEDDING .....all depends on the fact that you choose to use a sulfate-free Shampoo. It is truly that important !

The Health of Your Body.......Shows Up In Your Hair

In other words, if your hair is thin lifeless, shedding ... many times it can be a sign of another serious illness. So always rule that out, prior to working on my hair care techniques. Please. Rarely is that the sign of something serious, but I have spoken to numerous physicians about this, and they all concur that there are zillions of diseases that begin with hair loss. It is SOOO preventable within the walls of Killerstrands, especially if you follow 10,000 HEADS.

 The one and only type of shampoo you should ever use is :
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE or
SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate:is a Surfactant

What SLS layman's terms?

There is an ingredient is every shampoo and every "cleaning" agent whether it be for the body, for the hair, for the garage, for the bathroom, for the face,etc., called the "SURFACTANT". The surfactant in shampoos are surface active ingredients, meaning they can interact with a surface. The chemical nature of a surfactant allows it to surround and trap oily materials from surfaces. One portion of the molecule is oil compatible soluble while the other is water soluble.

 In other words the surfactant is the detergent - or the "cleaning portion" of the formula.
The surfactant is the portion of the formula that can have the harshness of the formula beCAUSE it is the detergent. Detergents CAN be harsh, but they can also be 'gentle'. For the past 20 years almost every shampoo has used the surfactant: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate SLS or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ALS, why? they are super - super cheap AND they make lots and lots of foam and bubbles.

People expect a lot from shampoos, its funny a product like that - which you use frequently .... we really... know nothing about.

Unfortunately, it is not easy to tell a good shampoo from a poor one. Cost, fragrance, and lots of foam is what most people look for in shampoo products. Lather and foam does absolutely nothing to make a shampoo a good one, but they often get the most attention.This is something I am trying to re-teach America:
Lots of bubbles has zero to do with the quality of shampoo - you must let that one thing 'go' - please.
Foaming occurs when surfactant molecules gather around air instead of oil. The result is millions of tiny bubbles. Obviously, the air bubbles are using the surfactants that should be removing dirt and oil. We have all seen shampoo advertisements showing happy, beautiful people taking showers with their heads heaped high with mounds of lather. These images have taught the public to associate lather with cleansing ability.

The truth is, lots of foamy lather only means too much shampoo was used.
Excess foam equals waste.
Sebum and other oils quickly destroy foam.
Ideally, the head should have just enough lather to lubricate the scalp and hair. This will help your fingers massage the shampoo more effectively into the hair.
Fragrances and foaming qualities are not good ways to evaluate shampoos.
Here is a common Formula to make a Simple Shampoo
Part A
SodiumCocoyl Isethionate ................20%       (look for this Surfactant above & below .. I love all  qualities)
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate..........13%
Crodasinic LS-30 ............................11%
PEG 150 Distearate
Glycol Stearate
PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Calendula Extract (oil soluble)
Part B
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Dl Panthenol
Water................................60-77%...........water is the majority of all shampoos, but the combination is what will give you the best results
Part C
Liquid Germall Plus
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate are easy to use and provide excellent foam and cleansing with mildness but that is where the substitution would be -- the SLS or the ALS would be plugged in there in other formulas. So you can see HOW MUCH of the formula is this harsh ingredient. It may not seem like a lot to you .......but I promise it is.  In formulating all the products you use, we use 2-3-4% of the TOTAL and that is a significant amount.
GuarSilk provides superior conditioning and additional viscosity. C12-15 alkyl benzoate provides sheen and improves wet combing. Panthenol & wheat protein for strength and conditioning.

Why did companies use SLS? 
SLS & ALS both create huge bubbles and are super cheap to use... and for years no one was looking "into" ingredients that are in cosmetics. The times are changing though. I was one of the first out here in wacky California - even my mentor didn't quite understand why I  cared about it so much!
 There are many manufacturers that use that exact same SLS as the main surfactant in garage cleaners, engine degreasers and the horrendous list goes on and on....the last place those ingredients should be > is in your hair.Try to remember the names, jot them down - put the list in your wallet, be sure not to purchase any hair products with those names in them. I'm not one of those fanatics, I promise you, I feel if you are fanatical about anything, it will drive you crazy. . . so crazy that avoiding whatever it is you were trying to, would be detrimental to having a balanced life.

My reason for avoiding SLS & ALS?
I began to notice that I was starting to have 18 year olds sit in my chair that had hair thinning and hair loss. Something I had never seen before. Of course, I had  30 (very few) - 40-50 - 60 year olds with the beginnings of this  problem. As you age, your hair thins. . . of course in men, but the problem began to become super predominant in women PLUS it began to become a problem in youth. . . so I began reading. 

This is when I started my journey into cosmetic chemistry.... so it took a full year of reading and joining a couple different groups, ordering huge textbooks and reading them /ALL OF THEM! learning how EXACTLY the hair follicle/hair strand worked. How and why certain things happened that had to do with the growing cycle....then I began to look into some of the ingredients in some of the products that we used. I am not a rocket scientist by any means.....BUT what I do have is : COMMON SENSE .

Therefore to me, I wanted to find a common bond. What did the 16-17 year old girl sitting in my chair use that the 67 year old man did as well??? It took me almost a full year. No one would help me, no one cared but me....But the 16-17 year old girl sure did. 
Finally it hit me.....shampoo....they both used shampoo. It was so simple and I missed it for a long time.
Then I had to decipher and learn what each ingredient was and what was its capacity within shampoo???

Long Story - - - SHORT . . . I started to focus on SLS and ALS. . . and then I got my first microscope. I ordered my first tub of SLS ( a powder). 
I opened the jar and the caustic smell of it burnt the inside of my nose and nearly knocked me over. I could NOT believe how rough and how horrifically strong - - JUST THE SCENT - - of this product was. 
I knew right then and there that this one ingredient was the cause of all the problems.
It also cost pennies, so the whole thing started to make more and more sense to me.
Super cheap . . . so the profits would be huge.
Super bubbles, which the public had been trained to love from the commercials.
Easy to work with.

I had been looking for a common denominator as to why all these people were having thinning hair & hair loss and this was it. All of these people used shampoos with SLS in them
- - we all did, we didn't know any better - this was years ago when we didn't question this type of thing.

So, after a lot of studying - researching and trials and errors with my clients. . . I discovered once we switched numerous people off of the SLS- shampoo's their hair thinning/loss after 2-4-6-8 months - - slowly improved. It worked for both men and women, which I didn't think was going to be the case. This was about 12-13 years ago . . . so steadily since then I have been writing letters, talking to labs and trying to bark up the right tree in hopes of getting the word out there. I feel 2008 was the first year the movement officially started, we still have a long way to go but at least it is opened up and now in 2011 I can proudly say I truly feel I had a lot to do with almost every company having a Sulfate-free shampoo.

PLEASE - PLEASE, get yourself an SLS or ALS-FREE Shampoo. . . .You WILL notice the difference when you quit using them and for the long term, you will be grateful.

I'm very proud of the shampoos in our store. We are the only site/store that carries 100% Sulfate-Free Shampoos. I just feel strongly about them for all of you and your hair's health.

We are having a Shampoo sale as I am bringing in some new lines that I am excited about. that does not mean I do not like these I use every shampoo in here personally you should see my shower it is hilarious......25%OFF all Shampoos in the store the code is:

 this will be good for the next 3 days: Sept. 5, 6, & 7,  2014

Can you believe that over 556,771 
people have read this post!

"The Health Of Your Body; 
           Shows Up In Your Hair"

I brought the previous comments up from a different post at a different time...but the same topic

Counting Well Over 50 "Purple" Shampoos - Its Time "Blue" Makes Its Appearance !

Blue based colors, blue based conditioners and blue based shampoos are the only category of products that will cancel out any Gold, Blorange, or orangish tones you will have in your hair .Lets examine the Purple/Violet shampoo craze as an example ...
See where purple is on the Color wheel.....

Directly across from Brass (brass=yellow) which bothers most blondes of the world is Violet. Thus... the 50 brands of Violet/purple shampoos and conditioners of the world, flooded on every shelf. Even my 83 year old mom uses our violet shampoo - sulfate-free mind you !!!  ;)...she has silver hair which has a tendency to get a yellowish cast to it, it works wonderfully for her as well.

Now if you have the next most complained about tones to you blondes (usually in a more medium blond)  are what we refer to as Blorange, Gold, or orange.... Now if you look across the color wheel from orange you will see Blue, also across from the yellow-orange is....Blue-violet . Which are the 2 colors we are wanting to talk about with this post as I think they will help a lot of you, without you really thinking about it.

 We are promoting and putting the new product line "BURST" our new wild color block of Conditioners (including  BLUE) and Blue-Violet up on the site now!

We started with the product being a shampoo, then began running Strand Tests on all colors - in both Shampoo & Conditioner. I'm telling you the shampoos just did not pass the tests!

The Shampoos were just fading in the end result, because of the water content in shampoo. Shampoos are always 80%--90% WATER !! 

That is why I don't like to be involved with Shampoos, there is nothing to them really and they simply do not work as a good transport of the color we are trying to deposit on your hair strands to create either a beautiful pastel shade, enrich your present color, or counter the annoyting and bad tones in your hair an d they DO work!

 There are over 50 Purple Shampoos to diminish Brass. Finally I have formulated a Blue Conditioner and Blue-Violet Conditioner, which will provide the exact same luxury for those of you with Blorange, orange or Gold casts in your hair that drive you nuts.That is 2nd in line for problems in hair DURP that is just WRONG AND MUST BE FIXED !

That sounds correct for which levels have BLORANGE or Gold DURP....for years Blondes have soaked up the advantage of the purple shampoo, now those with Blorange have a Blue Conditioner

 Depending on the Blorange brightness it usually will take 2-3 times, because people are nervous about the blueConditioner..........the funny part to me is..........everyone thinks bright ass purple shampoo is just plain normal, but BLUE....oh no!!! That is so strange......................   no it isn't !
It follows science, and when you follow science then you are no longer using Guesswork, which I find so many hair Colorists doing. They, "guess", to come up with a color formula. When there is a solid scientific method for pretty much every question!

Use Breaking Bad Blue and after 1-4 times science rears its beautiful head & will begin knocking down that orange or Blorange cast !
Just know the longer you leave it on, the better it will work, if you have it right where you want it, then alternate it with Soma spay detangler..... I've heard many say to get up to the color they like best, it takes longer then they thought at first.... then they use it once a week to keep the color nice.

Be sure to check out that post to calculate your TRUE Level that can be very important if you are trying to master the road to becoming a Crib Colorist!
thanx for your question

Begin Looking In Your Trash for Posts and Newsletters from Killerstrands... Newsletters are the only place I annouce when their may be Sales - Most of the Time !

I would like Everyone to Know that Your Post from this Blog and the Newsletters where you receive cool information and "SALE info. are most likely in your trash.....

                     I just went through my own trash and all my own Posts 

from this Blog 

and all my Newsletters  



 Were all in my trash!

I know a lot of you do not want that to happen....

You need to put the Killerstrands name in your address book...both ways Killer Strands and Killerstrands Hair Clinic.



Its hard 

we don't want a bunch of trash in our emails, 

but wouldn't you think 

I would get 

"my own Newsletters" 

when they are:

from me 


for me 

(its so I can see if they look OK before I send them out !


i really don't get it 


so look in your trash for anything from me, 


i guess

Melanin - and Why This Concept is Important to Learn About Hair

We are changing back to LANZA, Schwarzkopf, Wella, & Kaaral for Hair color, I just completed the LANZA page and I will fix the Kaaral page next week. This is great news for all the present redheads and people considering red hair. Kaaral has more reds than any line we have ever seen ! I tested a new line that just came out out called OYA and frankly it did not compare to the lines we carry. They all have recently tweaked their formulas adding violet into their Ashes, which is all colors that 'end' in "1".  Have you noticed that I haven't really spoken too much about that BUT. . . . in every color line they are all getting on board and realizing the advantages of the LEVEL System so now all colors in all lines have the Same number for the same Tone.

We all now know the Level System:
Level 1 
Black Hair

Level 12 
is Platinum Hair!

and all the colors in between are obvious, you just go up a little bit or down a little bit for all the Levels in between. We have many many Level Charts in the past pages of this Blog, just put that title in the SEARCH BAR and many references will show up. But, come to think of it... that sounds like a good idea, its time for an updated version of the Level Chart and now a Version of the Tones" (which are the numbers "AFTER" the Dash or the dot in a Hair Color Title on the side of the Box.  
I'm not too sure if I reviewed this as much as it is important and will make your life easier, when you step out to become a Crib Colorist ! 

Here is the side of some Kenra boxes, just happens to be their new metallic's, which I did some strand tests a few Posts back...just FYI ....

But the main point of this photo is to explain what all lines are doing to make it easier for you, in figuring out your Color formula's, which is every one's main problem...pretty much.
This particular color doesn't have a DASH -- or a POINT . in between the Level and the tone....but because no one else has a metallic line they are making it easy by using the first 2 letters of the word. SM or Silver Metallic.


 This a photo of some Schwarzkopf boxes
you see 5-3.......that is Level 5 Medium Brown  - (dash)  3 , 3 always stands for "Gold"
so if you see a Level 5-3 it will always be approx.Medium Brown then with a 3 - Gold TONE to it as you see here and on and on...

Next is an important Concept no matter how weird the words sound, don't let them scare you....... I will always try to break down a subject and make it easier to understand .

What makes the hair have Color so that it CAN Change to New Colors... and why?
This was an excellent recent question from a gal in our group. Remember, I am happy to tackle any subject you would like me to review in Hair Health & Hair Color, just email the question to : color . I t may not happen right away but eventually there WILL be a post regarding whatever you ask !

The molecules in the hair are set in a specific pattern in VIRGIN hair.
Say you applied Demi-permanent color with 13 Volume last December.
At that point, those molecules - change - somewhat and remain like that, even when the color washes out, those molecules do not go back to the beginning pattern NO MATTER WHAT.
As far as the color of hair?
All virgin hair is the result of the pigment inside the cortex called MELANIN. I've known that word for a lifetime, asking my mom "why do I have freckles"..........she would tell me that my melanin came in my body different than the rest of the did not give overall color it instead, formed spots of melanin. So I really disliked that word as a child, I would imagine a lot of redheads might. ! ! !  

I have since forgotten about it . But it relates to this subject today because melanin is what colors the skin, eyes AND hair in the body !
Melanin are tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that gives color to hair.
BUT....BUT,  there are 2 different types of melanin: 
  • eumelanin AND 
  • pheomelanin
eu-melanin= provides brown & black color to hair
pheo-melanin= provides red- copper & yellow

BUT, DURP is not really pheomelanin

As I've said many times
there can be 8 females......... all the same age, with the same texture, color - Virgin Level 7 hair........ lined up ( for example)...
Then I mix up 1 mixture exactly the same of 8 - Neutral Violet and 20Volume. So the virgin hair will be lifted 1 level from the developer and 1 level from the color.
Apply the color wait 1 hour
Rinse, INTENSIVE, and dry.

Will they all look the same?
every single one of them will look different and that is because of the unique melanin & DNA to every person on the planet.
So the DURP will be the unique colors that remain AFTER hair color has lifted out color to achieve the newly desired color.

pheomelanin provides red-copper & yellow hues which are present in all colors apart from Level 9 - 12 + Gray & white hair.  
Even black hair has red-copper & yellow pheomelanin, so I hope this makes a  little more sense now.
So, if dark hair has all those colors in it, it makes it a little easier to comprehend how all those funny DURPS - Dominant.Underlying.Remaining.Pigment appear as hair color is used, doesn't it?
Will it should silly !

thank you one and all, and with fall upon us, please let me know if you need any topics about all the new hair colors coming up.....discussed !


Nutrition & How its Helps Your Hair Shine ! 10,000HEADS - Step 2

10,000HEADS Hair Loss Protocol - STEP 2

I wanted to re-run this Post, its been a long time not discussing the 10,000HEADS protocol which is how to work on your hair and make it healthy. There are 12 Steps to this and this one was brought to my attention by a reader. I will go back and forth for a while from hair color to hair health beCAUSE it is so important to discuss. I know you want to hear about hair color and that will not stop, just fyi.


The food you eat and what goes in your body is simply the most important factor in changing the health and thickness of your hair. It is important to understand 10,000 HEADS works its wonders synergistically, practicing all the steps in unison, will give you optimum results, I have had some absolutely amazing stories come back to me. I cannot stress it enough; Nutrition & step1 will always be the most important step and is the backbone of the program.

This is also the single most difficult step to get women to follow through on. When changing food intake, it can take weeks or months for results to be apparent, many give up feeling as though the change didn’t help. Hang in there, the change will come I have seen it over and over. As a scientist, as a Cosmetologist and as a Cosmetic Chemist, I surveyed thousands of heads of hair, paying attention to patterns and forming hypothesis on ‘why’ a particular person had a good head of hair and how it got to be that way, I came up with 3 common denominators of every person with enviable hair:
  • excellent nutrition/eating habits

  • no smoking, no drinking/drugs

  • no weight issues - fairly stress-free
This step does not restrict you from any foods; on the contrary, I ask that you follow a well balanced sensible diet that will contribute to the growth and health of your hair. Of course I do not encourage eating a lot of sugary, gooey, junk either. Be sensible. Try remembering this, “what goes in your mouth, shows up on your head” a terrific rule of thumb. Forensic analysts can use one strand of a hair analysis to disclose just about everything on a person and it is extremely accurate - your hair is a reflection of your health – period. I'm sure everyone has watched one of the Crime Forensic showss I think there are 4 of them now. They show you right there on TV how important a hair can be.

All foods you eat are eventually converted to simple compounds..... the body is able to utilize, glucose being the one that supplies the energy for all cellular reproduction – including the cells in the hair follicles (remember, follicle cell reproduction is one of the quickest in the body). So keeping the body nourished is imperative for healthy hair and for hair regrowth, starving yourself will shut down cell reproduction which in turn shuts down the hair RE-GROWING.

The number 1 mistake that just about every person with hair problems makes is . . .lack of protein. Hair is made up protein and thrives on protein, listening to women over the years recite their diet choices, leaves me stunned with the same conclusion, their diets are what started their problems. Vegetarians have a very hard time having luxurious hair, they must put protein back in their daily diet, making sure to have it at breakfast, which is the most important meal of the day for your hair; do not skip it. Lunch is next in importance, again making sure that you include as much protein as you possibly can, strive for 50 grams of protein a day minimum.

There are many protein bars in the grocery store if you don't have a Trader Joes which has the best selection, u must find one you absolutely LOVE. so you will look forward to eating it ! You can get a whopping 15 grams of protein out of some of the bars . 

The energy to your hair follicles gets depleted when you have gone for more than 4 hours without eating or snacking, the ideal snacks for your hair health are fresh fruit, raw vegetables, nuts, there is nothing better (or more convenient) than a handful of almonds for the shine in your hair.
Colourful fruits and vegetables added to the daily diet are a necessity as well. The best way to summarize it is to say; reach for the most colourful veges, picking some in each colour category. 

No one eats sufficiently in this category and the only reason I can pinpoint is; they take too long to prepare. Which is a weak answer, in my book. But, it is what it is. The solution? Hit the Farmers market every week, it takes an hour-go immediately home: wash and prepare all the veges for the week. Carrot sticks, Celery & p-nut butter, sliced cucumbers, lettuce for salads. Most everyone now-a-days is in a rush...this facilitates grabbing something good for your hair when there is no time.

If you smoke - QUIT- if for no other reason than you are killing your hair. . . that sounds harsh, but in essence – you are. Smoking robs your body of oxygen which in turn robs your hair of oxygen filled blood. . .whose job it is to nourish the hair follicle. Check out the photo at the top, it shows you a "slice" of the human skin and how a hair and hair follicle gets its nourishment.

See the red blood vessels and how they go to the base of the one hair follicle, that is the

bulb inside, where the cell regeneration happens and the new hair grows. You don’t need to be a chemist to see that blood feeds the follicle <> therefore what is IN the blood effects the hair. Likewise, for alcohol and drugs, if you drink too much – cut back or quit if it is a problem in your life – social drinking is fine. If you smoke too much dope, just remember why they call it dope, Pot is bad for hair, skin and nails, the sooner you quit the higher the likelihood you will have of its good qualities returning. When you get older ( 50’s-60’s) you start to notice the people that did not do any of these things when they were younger, the difference in their hair, skin and nails is nothing short of amazing. Be smart, quit now, while you’re ahead! 

If you crash diet or have any of the disruptive habits of an eating disorder, your hair unfortunately, will be the first casualty. I spent 4 years volunteering at an Anorexia/ Bulimia live-in center, when the girls had a good week, they were allowed to get their hair coloured. The hair on some of those girls was irreparable; they had robbed their bodies of nutrients for so long that many of them could not recover the health of their hair, once cured . . .it was terribly sad to watch as many were very young. The cure came too late and no one had told them anorexia/bulimia was hell on hair. I feel that one fact alone would help prevent some of this disease, girls love their hair and hate to lose it.
Starving yourself, eliminating protein and certain food groups is not the way to a healthy head of hair. . . Plug protein into your diet, starting immediately if your hair is thinning or alopecia is your diagnosis. The change will not be apparent for a while but we assure you… it will come.

Food and a balanced diet is imperative for your hair to grow and re-grow, you must understand fully how the cycles work in order for you to see how absolutely necessary it is to eat correctly.

Kenra Silver Metallics - Strand Test Results

Well .....OK everyone the results of the Kenra SILVER METALLICS are in sand as I usually do when running Strand Tests I let them develop for 90 minutes. Which I did for these as well. 

Unfortunately, my suspicions were correct. What I did was run 2 Strands on Level 5 hair, which is what you need to do........ to see if it is a truly a permanent hair color. A permanent color has the ability to Lift and Color.........otherwise the color you are speaking about is a Toner or Demi-Permanent Hair Color at best.
As you can see by the above boxes Kenra calls it a permanent color + slips it into the permanent hair color line they have. They have a demi line, the box is half the size and the color range is limited. What I found , is as I expected.
So I ran 5 Strand Tests.......
  • 8SM +40Volume on Level 5
  • 10SM + 40Volume on Level 5
  • 8SM + 10 Volume on Level 9.5 (I use to cut ponytails off for LOCKS OF LOVE, I would send one in and keep one for my research. So I have lots of Kids hair to work on. Its VIRGIN if you bleached the hair and applied this Color you may have a little better results because newly bleached hair is like a sponge and soaks up color like nobodies business.
  • 8SM +40 Volume on Level 9.5
  • 10SM + 10Volume on Level 9.5

The woman that is deciding if she should use these colors I'm afraid is going to be disappointed. I guess somewhere they have the direction to doing this hair color:

The color did not change the Level 5 color AT ALL. Which makes the color not properly categorized if you go by the Level System Rules. I mean there is not 1 organization that heads up the world of Hair Color. I think that would be a great project for someone to take up. I would if I wasn't so ill. They have a tiny magazine called Hair Color but the styles in the magazine are truly a couple years old. I watch Europe. I get my hair color magazines from Europe, I like to see where we will be in a few years. European women are just so much braver than Americans go as far as colour.

But lets look at what will turn Kenra's color into a Demi Permanent - why? BECAUSE IT ONLY deposits color.....and not very well.

As you can see the only color worth its cost is the 8SM.....and it is very pretty, If its applied on bleached out hair it will absorb better because newly bleached hair is like a sponge it soaks up color like nobody's business.

So, you can see here that there is NO lift with 40 Volume and either color, there is ZERO change, so this color is not a PERMANENT Color. It can be a Demi-Permanent color though because the lower numbers DO deposit.
The one Strand Test came apart when I was rinsing it so its kind of a mess but you can tell by the photo that it has not changed the color AT ALL. Both were on there 90 minutes and it is a warm day here as well.

This color is the best and it is beautiful , but again it is color deposited on blond hair, not a hard process to produce. I truly though they had mastered a new technology.

But at least everyone now knows exactly what it does

Kenra's New Line of Silver Metallic Hair Color - Successful ?

Wow I just wrote a whole post and the computer crashed, I always think that is a sign to shorten things up ! So, we are reviewing the fairly new Kenra product in their hair coloring line... to see if a company has mastered the art of getting a metallic into a tube of Color. How many of you think they did it?

How many of you think they didn't ?

But AAAnyway, I think Kenra is not being honest with their description and what is in those tubes of "color". 1st of All - until now I have not tested this line, I just was thinking all along "wow someone has finally developed Silver in a hair color..... that's awesome!" They have been selling pretty well and I have had no complaints. But, now that this has been brought to my attention by a Group member, I am going to crack open 2 of the tubes of color and test them for you (and for others) so we have true results and not 'jaded' ones.

Why do I say that? because I am guilty. I am guilty of being very involved in covering up AND 'coming up' with tricks no one else could figure out. The hair industry is completely guilty of that "times 10 !" and never more so, than in today's marketplace. All those ridiculous L'Oreal ads you see with Giselle lying her ass off in them.......make me so upset & sad now ... In looking back at what I did.... I just feel horrible about it, I really do. I just want to confess my sins to all the Crib Colorists out there, I am just so VERY SORRY, I didn't know better back then, I have confidence that if all my former friends - - who are Colorists, knew, how much it has really done that is harmful to the public...they would change, like I have.                                

But at least I have a way to make up for that. The Blog is there to make up for all of that..... the Group is here for that as well. We would do a commercial and use what we actually needed and then just apply a fake white cream that was the exact consistency of the product they were selling. I know - I know - I know ! What a jerk. Meet 'me' the King of all Jerk Colorists! To be honest I never asked if the company knew or not, I felt so guilty already....and I suppose I didn't want to know the answer. 

The worst part of the Kenra Educational Print AD link you see here, is: they package that Tube in a false manner. It says it right on the box : "Permanent Hair Color" .  Which would mean it should LIFT and TONE for a Level 8 & a Level 10 .... but the directions you showed me has the color ONLY Toning. 

What is a TONER? Any hair color that is used WITH 15 Volume or lower. It does not matter what it says ON THE BOX of hair color on ANY BRAND. The developer detects which branch of hair color the mixed hair color will be. The DEVELOPER is the 2nd most important part of the Hair Color equation, which so many Hair & Crib Colorists just don't realize. Using the wrong one will ruin your entire results. That's why those Box-O-Crap Hair Colors you find in the grocery store should be banned from the shelves. I mean,

  • What Volume is in that box?
  • Does the tube of Color Lift or not?
  • Do I need a Toner? ?
  • Are any of these boxes Toners?
Questions like these that are so important and for everyone, both Colorist and Client should know !!
Boxed color should be removed from the shelves.
....whoops. . . sorry I got off-track there for a little bit....
I went through Kenra's on-line web site and it continues to give everyone the complete wrong idea, it puts it on its "Permanent" hair color chart and marks it permanent on the box. Permanent means "permanent"...NOT "Toner".......which from the Ad........... is all this is. Oh and btw, In the Colorists world...we call that Blue, not silver!

So, what I am going to do is, I have decided to run Strand Tests on Level 8SM and Level 10SM of these so I can be more educated on my end, or see if they have really developed NEW Technology. Which I have a feeling has not happened ...otherwise they would be singing their own praises all over the place (Face book, their website, Twitter, etc.)

You know another thing about their educational information, they are having you use 7SM and 8SM - - a complete lie. You cannot detect a difference between 2 colors that are so close together. I assume you are going towards the other photos of Silver hair I have seen on their web site, not the short cut they show with this results. If you were going towards that you will see  you need to lighten your hair to a Level 11 - 12. Then apply both colors to the super lightened hair. if you want to truly see a difference in color they both need to be at least 2 Levels apart,

 I learned long ago, doing very complicated hair color procedures, if you want contrast within 2 colors (in your design) they must be at least 2 Levels apart

I will be back tomorrow with the results..... and then we will all know for sure.


Redheads - Redheads..........Who Wants A Redhead ?

I had an interesting request by a fellow redhead recently and it got me thinking, that I have completely avoided the whole category. There is a reason for that, it may not be a good reason, but it is the reason I was! I have left  'my own' out of this Blog completely and that is not cool.......not cool at all. 

My reason, which I have now realized is silly and horrible and the only thing I can do is try to change it and hope the rest of you don't take offense to. The reason I wasn't writing to Redheads is because redheads make up only 1%-2% of all hair color in the world, which is really very very rare. To be honest I leave 'black' hair out of the Blog as well and 'black' hair is the most common color in the entire world ! Get ready though ... I need to make up for that, to both categories of hair color. Just remember, because the level system 'can' be used, but not exactly the same, we both have much more limited choices than our brunette counter-parts !
from Deep Dark Red ... Light Faded Copper
 Just to establish my red hair color & Level so you can see if your own is similar and if not how different it is. My own red hair is considered Copper level 8GR, just like everyone I hated the gold or brass in my color. Which for the longest time was highlighted with blond, which took the copper and made it a Level 12 blond. I look back at photos now and still like my color best at that stage, I kept it that way most of my life, until I entered the Vidal Sassoon Academy. Just like in the rest of my my particular Class I was the ONLY red head. I wish Google was around in those days as you could not research like you can today. 

Today you can make such a much more "informed" choice, not that I would have made any different choice, because I wouldn't have. But as far as looking ahead to what I was getting myself into would've been nicer. I am sure those of you who are redheads out there have experienced the exact same rarity that I have. I don't care what non-reds say, it is difficult growing up redhead. I don't care how many people tell you how lucky you are. I'm not sure about many of you, but I kind of was raked over the coals when I was younger with my blazing red hair freckles and white skin....just not a pretty picture living 20 minutes from Malibu Beach. No matter what I tried, I could not get tan and boy did I stand out.

Those are my experiences, I would love to hear from other redhead out there????. Being as not one other member in my family had anything close to red hair....... I have blond and brunette brothers! I am told my Grandmother had red hair but I never met her so I had a very confusing childhood with the hair color. I hated it and bugged my mom for years to let me change it. Once I began getting blond highlights I liked my hair a lot better.

What other color would a red head want ? Every one I have ever talked to has wanted to be blond, because if you use the Level chart which you can transfer over to reds, Levels 6 thru 10 can be red and those numbers are in the blond range. The Level chart is a chart of lightness and darkness the Levels can be transferred over in certain ranges. I haven't done a lot of redheads in my life if you ask a busy colorist how many redheads they have many of them will say ZERO! I only had 2 in a very busy clientele of 15 years. I had a lot of natural brunettes want to be redheads and especially in the last year with Jessica Chastain.
Jessica Chastain
 I believe Chastain has single-handedly changed the public's view of red hair. When her film won the academy award I began to notice and feel a huge 'shift' in everyone's POV of the hair color. Which to be honest I had felt back when Nicole Kidman won her Acadmy Award so I call it Oscar Red. When an Oscar follows a redhead down the aisle...the shift in how the country feels about redheads changes and I LOVE IT!

 The rules are not exactly the same but basically they are. Like you can lift from a Level 6RG to a level 8RG by using a permanent Level 8RG on a Level 6RG and using which developer? 25 - 30 Volume - which lifts 1-2 Levels. Personally I have been all over the red scale pretty much every color you will see in the next photo display:

The newest red-head chameleon is Miss Emma Roberts, she has opened the red world up to the younger set and I would like to thank her for the boost. Such a young girl being bold about her choices, I see her wearing wigs some of the time, which I will bet she has learned from some older actors. What do I mean by that? Many older actors refuse to color their hair a variety of colors in order to keep it healthy and strong. Some of them take younger actors under their wing and tell them to refuse various hair color changes. Once smart, they put it into their contracts in order to protect themselves. Its hard to do that when you are in the "up & coming" phase.

Remember the Jennifer Lawtrence Crop? That was due to hair that was breaking off-- not by choice. If you don't protect your hair the studio will not give a shit either. Sometimes you get Studio Execs making the decision on what color hair the actors hair should be when that is the LAST person who should be talking hair color.

I will delve into a couple different hair color processes for redhead's, in up coming Posts.... but I want to give you a sentence that is in many hair color guides from years past. I want you to be thinking about it so that you ask me some good questions.

The Rule about Redhead's is this and I didn't know this at the time I went blond, I finally found it in older hair color guides and it made things make sense for me & for you ! This is a very old rule from the 50's even !
                              " True Redheads Should Not Be Colored Blond" !  

The person that asked me to write about Redheads being colored Blond needs to tell us what she is talking you mean Redheads that are colored Red or true redheads? BIG DIFFERENCE!  Actually I will tell you both I will also tell you about my adventures to Blond.