Xmas Beards, finally the Men Are Getting Involved !

Xmas Beards




How About that for .........
.......................Don Thy Apparel

Check Out : How to Go From Level 7,8,9 to Platinum AT HOME & Pretty Easily !

Lots of you want to make this transition and wonder what the best way to accomplish it at home is. Here is a Demo of another Stylists plan to achieve it and below some of my commentary as to what I feel is the best plan for Crib Colorists to do .... to accomplish the same look.

A Demo On What To Ask For ,
 From a Salon to Get The Result on right side...:


Remember there is a LOT to be said for a Great Blow-Dry and some GLEAM
 Before I begin remember something very important about photo stories like this...the photo on the right has her with clean hair that has Gleam or some oil or some serum on it and a 40-minute Blow-Dry done to it. So, I hate when people use such drastic photos when a great Blow Dry can solve many issues. 
But.. a-n-y-w-a-y-
The email sent me, asked me if this was the only way for this to be accomplished because her hair looks so beautiful and exactly as she wants hers but knows she cannot afford the cost. As you can see by these head sheets the Stylist is putting hundreds of highlights in. Each one of those little lines is a highlight parting. I only put up half the head sheets -- which are what we use in hair academy to describe which process goes 'where', which direction the part should: go, stop & start. Most importantly: what the Color formula's are ...... and where they each should go. All of that can be wrapped up in that one little tiny piece of paper called a Head-sheet with a silly looking mannequin head......... pencil drawn on! That is a good idea for another Post....explaining Head Sheets! Will do!

It worries me when I see something like this out in the public....because what it does is make you think if you buy a gigantic tub of bleach and apply it to your hair it will look like this and that is so far from the truth my head is steaming! They want you to screw up your hair so that you have to head to the Salon to get it fixed...
Its a completely regular thing for Salons, in Malibu they were referred to as a B.C.D. so it could be talked about without the clients knowing the lingo. They would say .....
 "Uh-Oh !, "Here comes another B-C-D
B - Boxed
C - Color
D - Disaster

Now, as far as reaching the color on the right at home.
Unless you have a family member that is very talented in hair color, putting foils in using that method is going to be impossible, pretty much. Besides if that look on the right is your goal I truly don't feel you need to do foils. I hate to admit this, yet I know I didn't do it....but Stylists will push you to get foils BECAUSE.........it is the costliest procedure. I've just heard so many Stylists around me pushing people to that solution, when a quicker, better procedure will work. Personally, I would rather get this client - 'done' and 'gone' and on her merry way....then I can start on the next person. But Stylists who don't have a lot of clients waiting will - many times - suggest that a whole head full of foils is the way to go. Don't list to it. Stand up for yourself. Tell them you only want color on the top half. .. . . . or you want an Oil Bleach applied. 

To achieve that above look, there is NO variation of color - it is a solid Level 12 hair. Period. You see that right? Well, to achieve an all over platinum look the most convenient, easiest and most appropriate method of getting there? Oil Bleach. We make a Kit which has 2 applications in it and if you are dark, you may need 2 or 3 for the lengths which you do first, which is just like applying color..........no foils. We have a DEMO on this Blog that shows you the proper method of applying the Oil Bleach Kit. So this post is not how to do it but THAT YOU CAN DO IT AT HOME WITH directions which we have on here.

Plus we have the Kit you need to achieve the above look and the procedure's proper name is "Bleach and Tone". Its never just Bleach...
You must always TONE a blond - especially right after lightening.
I will give you my top 3 Toners for "post" lightening.

#1.) Wella Color Touch 10/6 Violet - The violet based colors, help fight any brass leftover
#2.)  Matrix GWEN Toner - SPV - Sheer Pastel violet - a beauty
#3.) Schwartzkopf Igora - 9.5-49 NUDE - This is a bit warmer but also gorge

Here is what the Oil Bleach Kit looks like and directions are here, spend the Holidays discovering a new hobby. I vote we make Home Hair Coloring a hobby. Corporations won't want this, but we do ! !

DEMO: DEMO: How to Achieve Those Never-Ending... Lovely... BEACHY CURLS

 How To Get Perfect BEACHY CURLS

1. The "before" shot!

2. First, you want to take different-sized sections of hair, so your curls won't be too uniform. Take these partings of hair in varying sizes and wrap around the barrel of your curling iron. ( As a hair stylist we use and swear by the MARCEL 1" inch Barrel Curling Iron .... since it won’t flatten your hair and gives you more body). Leave the last couple of inches of hair out to not curl them because they would end up absorbing too much curl—which would end up looking too girly, like Shirley Temple. I also like to curl away from the face (going back, instead of forward) since it makes the curls flow away from your face, opening up your face more.

3. Once you pull your hair out of the curling iron, pull it straight for a few seconds,let the hair COOL WITHOUT TOUCHING IT ! If your curls don't last long a special trick used by all pro Stylists : use simple hair clips like these:

clip the curl in its ROUND shape (leaving out the ends) to the head. That means the hair will cool in a complete round shape on the head.  LET COOL (most important part) 

4-5. Repeat on the other side.

6. Finally, shake out the curls to loosen them up and make them look natural.

Most Common Cause of Hair Loss In Women

The most common cause of hair loss in women is “androgenetic alopecia” which basically means Female Pattern Hair Loss. FPHL basically boils down to the women’s version of: aging-hormones & genetics affecting hair loss. It has been fairly well established that the science of hair loss between the sexes is completely different. 

Not only does male pattern baldness reveal differently, scientists believe the solutions are down a different path as well. Men already have a quick-fix pill that works fairly well (Propecia), women have Minoxidil (Rogaine) as the one FDA approved drug to combat loss and there are multiple lasers that have now been approved for improving hair growth. The only issue of course...........is the price ( $700.00 ). I believe in the I Grow Laser Hair Rejuvenation System which is an innovative, convenient hands-free hair re-growth system designed for use in the comfort of your own home. 

The safe, effective treatment strengthens hair follicles while re-growing through low-level light therapy. You’ll notice improvement in hair growth and appearance after six months of continual use. It even includes iPod- and MP3-compatible headphones to keep you entertained while your hair grows.
How to use: Use every other day for 20-25 minutes for 6 months, then once per week to maintain treatment results.

 If you include minoxidil 
 & the IGROW

 along with the full 10,000HEADS Protocol

 you could potentially have the hair of a super model. There are any factors that! If you are very worried about the amount of hair loss you are having then you need to hop in your car and get yourself all of these supplies. Use only the "foam" .......all the others just sweat off the scalp !   My initial work & research at killer strands was focused mainly on the issue of Women’s hair loss.

Killer strands would like to introduce to you a new way of understanding the female hair loss plaguing America today. By recent estimates 50 million women are suffering from one form or another of hair loss and the numbers continue to rise. In order for women to understand why the 14 steps of this program work, we found it helps to educate and explain the “HAIR GROWTH CYCLE in a little different method, one that  is clear – simple – and concise . 

When we take the time to explain the whole process at the clinic, we can see the light bulbs going off over clients heads so we know its helps - this explanation ...............................
{ if I've done a good job ! } also explains why some people have longer hair than others. See if you can catch 'why' ? ! 

Each person is born with every single hair follicle they will have for lifetime, on the body. As a tiny baby you are born with 5 million hair follicles spread throughout the entire body , with 1 million on the head and 100,000 on the scalp.

 There are 2 types of hairs within all of those, vellus and terminal…vellus are the short fuzzy, soft ones that do not grow, while the “terminal” hairs are just that, terminal. Think about that, as that is what will help you understand the reason behind alopecia, the hairs on your scalp have a life-span…they sprout, grow, shed – rest, then begin the process all over again. 

Now there are technical names for all of these stages which you can see on the chart , but what is important here, is that  each and every single hair on your head; sprouts, grows, sheds, & rests…shedding is a mandatory part of new hair growth. A hair remains in its GROWTH phase for approx. 4 years (fluctuates by person) – at the end of the growth phase it is shed {hair fall}; three months later another grows in its place. When the hair is shed there is the period of awaiting cell regeneration…which begins another new hair… and ‘that’ is where the diminishing numbers come from.

 As we age the hair that once grew for 4 years – the next time it may only grow for 3 1/2 years, the next time for 3 years and so on . Therefore, if you had 50,000 hairs growing for 4 years when you were 20 years old and then every  4-5 years the amount went down another 2-3,000 . Therefore, you have an EVEN  all-over or “DIFFUSE” pattern of hair loss, you can now see how the thinning begins to happen, which explains WPHL or women’s pattern hair loss . We believe that the hair SHIFT term that we coined is the result of 10 years accumulation of changes within the body (for one reason or another) resulting  in a distinct and noticeable change. 

Every single hair on your head sheds, that is the completely normal process within the normal growth cycle of each and every hair. In order for a new hair to grow in.... the old one has to shed, so the “cycle” can continue along its merry way! Many people panic about hair shedding, 95% of the time it is within the normal range, it has just been combined with a person’s aging & hormones, so it seems more severe, which is understanding. 

So what I am trying to say is...........shedding is normal.....its completely NORMAL. So many of you think you have abnormal shedding. BUT....if all hair sheds. Then eventually every single hair on your head MUST come off your head. Why? For the NEW one to grow in.....so the goal and those theories about brushing the hair regularly are valid. You want the hairs to come off the head that are ready to, that makes way for the new hair to be able to grow in.

Many of you do not eat a balanced diet and if that is the case be sure you get yourself some Secret Supplement and just watch your hair flourish! It really does solve the problem of thin or weak hair like nothing I have ever seen in 20 years!

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This Saturday will be the last Sale of the year dedicated to a very worthy cause...........the SMALL BUSINESS.  Its our Small Business Saturday Sale and its a cause near and dear to my heart. I watch small hair company's being snatched up by large Corporations on a daily basis, I watch small - cool - innovative company's in all field's being bought up by large Corporations and that to me, is the death of both the Middle Class and the Middle income population of this country. 

If we end up with just the very wealthy and the very poor, it will destroy our country. The economics of having only 2 classes make NO Sense no matter which party you are. This is NOT a "particular party" issue. This is an issue of survival in America for everyone. 

Please not ONLY support us, but MAKE A POINT of shopping ONLY at ALL SMALL BUSINESSES this Saturday. The government and the media is paying attention, PLEASE -- PLEASE. . . . support only small businesses on this Saturday November 29, 2014. We have the last Sale of the year.


The Level System : What Do All Those Numbers Mean?

I am finding there is a lot of confusion, and mixed up definitions of the numbers involved in the Level System coding on the sides of boxes and within the Level System. I'd like to clear up and clarify some of them.

First of all the Level System which is a system: defined "by numbers" is actually meant to be made "easier" by using those numbers. There are many times I feel they have just traded numbers for Letters and it truly hasn't helped much of anything....but I still teach it and feel it is the best tool we have for defining a 'system' for calculating hair color to be used on your hair in the correct manner.

It is referred to as the Level System of Hair coloring, beginning at Level 1 (Black) ---  all the way to Level 12 (platinum)....with all other colors sprinkled and spread throughout the middle of the two.

Here is the chart of a level 1 thru a Level 12 (after high-lift was added to the system)

Level 1 being Black and Level 12 being Platinum colored hair with all the other colors in between in a gradual scale of dark to light, or light to dark whichever way you choose to look at it.
{ this is a Wella chart -- Wella runs a Level darker which means a Level 2 is a Level 1 - basically}

The same holds true in the Tones.
Do you understand the difference between the two?
Levels are the lightness and darkness of hair color

Tones which are created by the way light falls on a object. Hair color tones can be put into three standard categories: warm, cool, or neutral. When I discuss color, or if you are choosing a color from a swatch book, the tones are often indicated with letters.......... standard examples of color tones are:

N = 0 = Neutral. Neither warm, nor cool. 
B = 7 = Brown (neither warm or cool)

Cool Tones

A: Ash............ 1
B: Beige......... 4
B: Blue........... 2
G: Green .......

V: Violet ........ 6
B: Brown........ 7

Warm Tones
C: Copper ( in the red series colors) OR Pearl..... 8 ( pearl means blue-violet based )
G: Gold ........ 3

R: Red ......... 5
( or Blorange) my own assessment of a bleached blond that pulls orangish

(not all company's use the exact same numbers for tones, but I find that each year they are all conforming more and more towards Wella who is really the Grandaddy of all hair color!

 Lets review what a few box ends look like........... so you understand this a little clearer

Here is Wella Koleston Perfect tube & the side of the box.
This color is used for excellent gray coverage, beautiful brow color and an all around beautiful hair color line. I recommend it for hard to cover gray and for battling the Blorange tones, none of us like ( the Matt series /2). Its the only line that does have a MATT series.

The number on the left side of the 'dash' or 'slash'  (EITHER ONE)..... is the Level of color that is in that tube of color. So this tube of color is a Level 6 ....( all colors & tones in this tube are a Level 5 because of Wella running a Level darker than all other lines)

The numbers on the right side of the dash or slash are...........the Tonal qualities within this tube of color. The one closest to the dash is the strongest , the next one being the lesser of the 2 tonal qualitties.
Therefore in the above pictured tube is a Level 6 ( my favorite shade of brunette)  with a double shot of just STRAIGHT Brown tone. So no tones, either way no cool no warm....just straight up brown-brown-brown!  Unfortunately hair color has many gray areas that need to be learned by experience....so never expect it to be black and white I'm afraid.

Here is the color the above tube will be............. once applied and dried:

This tube from Wella's line Illumina color is listed as a 5/81...............
 So, for this color inside the tube is a Level 5 (I've found that Illumina, runs - only - about 1/2 Level darker)
and the tonal qualities are an "8" which is PEARL in this instance (Pearl has always been referred to as Blue Violet based which would fight any orange/blorange/gold & Brass Tones). Very handy for pretty much all of you! Then Ash which also fights the same tones, so this would be a very beautiful color for those of you with color that is stubborn in fighting those undertones. 
After its been a little while since coloring your hair -- does your hair pull any of those tones:
  • blorange
  • orange
  • brass
  • gold

if so then this is your color. You would want to add it to an appropriate Neutral if gray is also your enemy.

                                            This tube of color would look similar to this photo:

 The last tube is Color Touch 8/81 :

Color Touch is a Level 8 - 
8 = Pearl Tone
1 = Ash Tone

This is a great Toner in a Level 8 (7!) use either a 6 or 13 Volume which you would apply to a blond with brass or Blorange tones to it to BOTH...............
remove the annoying Tones 
and to add shine and strength to blonde's

which would look like this photo:

Killer Chemist

B is for BURST & BOOST Your Way to Brass-free & Blorange-free Hair

Color Depositing Shampoos & Conditioners are the latest /hottest trend in hair & hair color categories. 
They have been around for decades and began in Great Britain where most of the best/brightest trends in hair & hair color originate.

But a fact that many of you may not know is that a good Colorist has been offering these all along to their 'jet set' clientele. Whether they travel for work or for fun .......there just is this huge trend to travel. When doing that no one wants to get their hair touched up in a foreign city. When Color enhancing conditioners are the solution. They help everyone get an extra 1-2 sometimes even 3 extra weeks out of their new color !

For redheads it is almost mandatory.... it is a well known fact that redheads fade quicker, and being one, I know it all too well. I have never colored for the gray I have always colored for the body it gives my hair. If you have never colored you just HAVE to try it for that reason alone. ( I would suggest either Schwarzkopf's Igora's Vibrance or Wella's Color Touch as a great beginning hair color).        

About a year ago the trend toward color depositing shampoos began to hit the bigger market places, and now its rockin and rollin everywhere.....so I decided to bring my own twist out of the closet and sell it to the market place and that is so all of YOU can have a custom version of what soon will be in Target ! I'm sorry I say that sarcastically and then realize, oh shit, I bet that doesn't come through on the other side of this page. Please know I am just kidding half the time....and being California-tastically

Let me try to explain a little bit about them to everyone.
They really they have been around since I was in Beauty Academy, a very long time ago, in the age of the dinosaurs (! !)

It was developed initially for actresses going on location! Many times we would Color an actors hair a unique Color or they would just have the worst DURP in the world so at that time. . . there were no "purple/violet or lavender" shampoos one could purchase - the only way we could do it was to make them one ourselves. These actors could take these with them when they would go to outer Mongolia and shoot a movie for 7-8 months.  In those days we would simply: send clients home with their own custom colored conditioners.

 As far as Killerstrands own, BURST and BOOST  the Shampoo is a color safe, hydrating, sulfate, sodium chloride, paraben and gluten free formula that gently repairs and restores integrity of the hair as well as deposits a color of tint that you desire. We do offer a "custom" color for those of you that have something different in mind.

I've thought of T-shirts, if there is any interest let me know in the comments section


A is for Autumn Hair - the Road to Health and The Newest Trend to Knock 'Ombre' out of the Hairwaves!

"A" is for Autumn Hair ...... working on making it become healthy by Xmas and the newest  trend to overtake the Ombre color trend ( and I LOVE it!)
We will be going through the alphabet, just for a silly way to keep me 'on point' about writing consistent Posts for you this month. Lots of different facets go into this operation and sometimes The Blog is the last to get attention and I don't like that to happen.

 I apologize for being absent for a while, but am back and ready to go.... I'm just glad to be alive.  I will keep this up as I enjoy educating more than you know and have always felt this is one of the motivating factors that has kept me fighting.

In the Autumn people begin flocking to Salons across the country to get their hair darker, get shorter hair cuts or trims and chose more 'fall' or darker colors for their hair color! 

 Even here in L.A., where one can barely tell one season from another blondes go from light blonde to darker blond. We have a lot of girls strolling around with the new rose Gold Color. I'm not to sure you can call that fall color but in L.A. I suppose it is ;)

Even Crib Colorists begin changing, into the fall colors on hair color swatch charts . . . WHY? everyone becomes inspired by the gorge photos in glossy magazines & social media.  As far as what are smart changes...???  I believe the main project you should work on is the health of your hair. If your hair is not completely healthy & shiny .... it is time to work on that this month before Xmas. I promise you there is time, all you need is 4 products and I can almost guarantee..........you will, continue using them for a long time & your hair will be transformed by the Holiday in December.  I am going to share with you a sentiment I receive over and over and maybe this will help you think about whether to try it or not. 

   '' The porosity of your hair is extremely important, in order for your hair to be healthy, strong, shining and hold color properly. If hair can't hold color well, then 6-7 days after its freshly colored ... it will begin to fade. Good porosity = Good Strength. Good Strength = Bold Hair Color for a longer period of time.  Good Porosity = Shiny Hair. Porosity is a very important quality for healthy shiny hair. Here's a blog post on porosity if you're not really sure what yours is: http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2013/06/how-to-test-porosity-of-your-hair-why.html
 " Lastly... this recommendation is coming from me, (April) If you're having problems with your hair feeling awful and looking dry or frizzy, go to KC's store and pick up some Thriven, Intensive, and Gleam.  After you use the Thriven overnight a few times, you will already notice a huge difference.  Intensive is my absolute favorite conditioner on the planet.  You can use it daily and you will definitely want it for after you color your hair because it will put the pH back to normal.  And then Gleam is an oil that I use every day, just a bit on the ends.   I don't go a day without it.  And you will also use that right BEFORE you color your hair so that when your developer is processing your color, the oils will go into the strands right along with the color and make it nice and healthy. Gleam replaces Lipids missing which is what dry, dull hair needs to be repaired. "
I had platinum-white hair when I first found this group and it was fried. Super duper dry and frizzy and unmanageable.  I did all of the above and my hair has NEVER felt better.  I joke that it's as soft as a kitten now. lol.  Also, the shampoo train will help your hair feel soooo much better too.  The Malibu2000 packets are AMAZING.  "

 Because of this I have added a new Kit I call the "Threesome":  Thriven, Gleam & INTENSIVE .  Oh, and for a great price as well!. 

Also, another apology is due... I am trying to work more on the website & add some new lines and fix present mistakes. I discovered that a lot of the kits  of Killerstrands products were priced wayyy too high and am so . . . very. . . .sorry !  I've fixed 2 pages.......... so be sure you check those 2 new pages out so you can take advantage of these  big discounts in many spots + any time something like that happens I encourage you to point them out. You can always call or email 
( killerstrands.info@gmail.com) .

Also, if you need help with picking out a product, call - if we are on the other line we try to return phone calls within 24 hrs. if not right away. The only thing we won't do over the phone is a hair color consultation as that is more intricate and takes some time and photos need to be exchanged. Join our group for that for a little over a dollar a day.

  A is for Autumn,  the hippest new Color trend that I feel is going to be number 1 this fall ...... its called Splashlight :

Isn't that Amazing? I love it........   Fantastic........ check out our Pinterest page for even more photos!


 Splash Light
 puts a band of light around the head and
 I think it is the bomb and beautiful ! We called it the HALO technique at Sassoon, but whatever you call it, it is awesome.

Blue Skies to one and all....

LANZA Hair Color & Developer

LANZA Hair Color & Developer
Terrific Gray coverage & Highlift Blonde's

Ivory-Rose Color

Ivory-Rose Color
Shag hair cut!