New Color Spring 2015

They are showing this photo on the Wella professional page as the newest color for Spring......



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Brunette to Platinum + PASTELS - Photo Journal DEMO

 I purchased a mannequin a few months back, because I wanted to show you how everyone can achieve blond hair WITHOUT a trace of brass or BLORANGE and the hair remains on the head and is healthy - beautiful and shiny. There simply is no reason for any magic potion to add to hair color, IF.............IT....................IS..................FORMULATED..................AND
..............APPLIED................CORRECTLY! ! ! ! !

I took photos of every single stage. Now a human head of hair is 100 times stronger than a doll made in china. This is Zoe, and Zoe has REAL VIRGIN  HUMAN  HAIR in a Level 6. It's truly between a 5.5 and a Level 6...........which we are going to bleach white. Or the proper terminology is: we will perform a BLEACH & TONE on her.................









So we begin by applying the Cream Lightener and 40Volume Violet Developer and I apply it ''in foils" for speed, as this project was going to take forever as it is.  YOU WOULD NOT APPLY IT IN FOILS - EVER, nor would you use 40 volume - again I did that for speed and using 20 volume is the proper way to go - - ALWAYS! ! !. There is no need for a mad rush, but I wanted to show you with just cream lightener and Violet developer  what happens to true - virgin - Level 6 hair.

Now here is what it looks like after 1 application - brassy and this is where most people stop. They are afraid if they continue it will begin to break off and you will have nothing left. If your hair is damaged is a whole other cup of tea. This hair was in average condition. It was not shiny, or soft, but the cream lightener gave those 2 properties to otherwise boring dull hair in my opinion!



Now, after the first bleaching, see the hairs that shed? On the comb up above? That is completely normal which is why I took the photo. Do NOT panic. Why does that happen? 
Every single day we shed between 150 and 200 hairs per day.........EVERY-SINGLE-DAY ! ! ! 

So the shedding comes from the fact that by applying the bleach you have accelerated the growth of the hair on your head and those hairs are simply the hairs you would have shed over the next couple days. They came out all at once instead of a little at a time. You can look further down and see how much hairs are lost after bleaching #3!


 These photos are after the bleaching and me applying INTENSIVE, which yes, I even did to a fake dolls hair because I know how much of a difference this stuff makes, and how important it is to the process!

INTENSIVE returns the hair's pH to normal, which also eliminates any trace of chemical's and locks in the color. The product was a pleasant and successful accident and everyone LOVES IT !

 I decided to leave the side piece on the bottom one bleach BEHIND the rest of the hair for comparison for everyone to see.


See photo # 14, that is the piece that is one bleach behind the piece on top. I bleached the top piece 3 complete times, in retrospect, I probably should have only bleached it twice....but I wanted to show you that even on a dead doll which is much harder to work on than a real person's hair ( because it doesn't react exactly the same to the products - not nearly as easy).

#15 is an application of THRIVEN - yep left it on a doll-head overnight with a cap on it !! Nutty aren't I ? ?



 Now, check to the right. . . . see the beautiful results? 

You can do this too #16 is the hair right after rinsing Thriven out with ZERO Toner on it !

See in photo # 17 the front piece has been bleached and rinse/INTENSIVE/THRIVEN.......... 3 times and the piece underneath has only been done twice! See, in # 18 the difference, you are constantly battling that brass. It just makes life beautiful and easy if you bleach till the color of frozen butter, I call it. See the difference?





 Photo #21 is the brush after the 3rd time and how much hair came out ( remember its a doll!) and how little I did not panic! Hair Loss is normal when going blonde. WHY? Going Blonde accelerates the natural growth pattern of your head of a hair. You will not lose this much but just do not panic, its normal and yes this is a tiny bit heavy.....


Always follow a bleaching with INTENSIVE!


ALWAYS FOLLOW BLEACHING with THRIVEN for strength.....we have some brand new conditioners coming next week.

So the result looks like this below......this is 3 bleachings with OIL BLEACH - look at the condition of the hair, no breakage and I'm telling you the condition of the hair is better than when we started. 

NO OLAPLEX  - - - JUST THRIVEN




 So there she is the snow white beauty, I just love platinum hair. It was the first major project I did many years ago and since that very first day I have loved it the absolute most. It is a very warm feeling of being a true artist within the world of hair color. Because you have taken dark and turned it to white, which as we all know............is not an easy road to hoe!
















Then I took Icey Mint Green BURST ( the conditioner) poured some in a bowl and began my next little art project. I could have made it all mint green but I decided to give Zoe some Mint Green Highlights!





You just take the end of tail comb (#28 - every Colorists best friend) and weave some little strips of hair, use a foil apply the ICEY MINT GREEN BURST conditioner with a tint brush as if it was a hair color. Close the foils up. Let them process for 30-40 minutes. When rinsing you want to do it in the sink and be very very careful not to let the green rinse out on top of the very white hair, for fear of staining it!
















Its a bit difficult to see, but the Mint Green was just gorge .. . . .I love the color. Plus you can layer the color and make it darker....
























Here we go with Angel.Rose.Angel - basically a rosey Pink. You purchase BURST ( the color tinted conditioner) - but you treat it as though it is a hair color..........by using foils.....or only applying BURST to the tips.....for that look!




















Now see the section in photo #40 underneath that is only lightened 2 times as opposed to the braid, or top part which was lightened 3 times ! See the difference??



Now to completely remove the color, you are required to email our inquiry email, it takes great care and careful measuring to do it the proper way.

Its called a SOAP CAP, and when I talked about this 8 years ago quite a few of you ruined your hair. I have a strict policy with myself...
Over 5000 people read this Blog every single day, if just one of you reports disaster with something I have taught you............I remove it from the site and give it up to, ''it just needs more intense training to educate the public on this particular technique''...

but am going to give you the proper recipe for a BLEACH CAP, because you can now GOOGLE a BLEACH CAP , AND THEY HAVE IT WRONG.


SO .........LETS SAY............YOU ARE DONE WITH THE PINK YOU WANT TO WIPE THE PINK OUT GENTLY AND START OVER WITH PLATINUM HAIR







The recipe for a SOAP CAP :

Shampoo Train the hair 2X minimum
then
mix:
   1/2 teaspoon cream lightener (you can purchase the Ribbons of light kit)
   1 Tablespoon 20Volume Developer
+ 2 Tablespoons Shampoo ( with sulfates!)
mix all 3 items well and 
apply to wet hair that has been shampooed, 
this mixtures will remove All BURST/ BOOST 
and or most Semi-Permanent Hair Colors







Rinse WELL....................apply INTENSIVE

.....................................Apply THRIVEN, then rinse






here is the last application we went with straight blue on the entire blond section and the hair is till healthy, when its not even on a real person ! ! !

You - TOO! ! Can accomplish this














When having platinum hair it is extremely important to not only keep it well conditioned, but also have at least a 1/4"- 1/2"  trim every 6-7 weeks is very important as well !



Any Questions?





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