Redheads - Redheads..........Who Wants A Redhead ?

I had an interesting request by a fellow redhead recently and it got me thinking, that I have completely avoided the whole category. There is a reason for that, it may not be a good reason, but it is the reason I was using...in-my-head! I have left  'my own' out of this Blog completely and that is not cool.......not cool at all. 

My reason, which I have now realized is silly and horrible and the only thing I can do is try to change it and hope the rest of you don't take offense to. The reason I wasn't writing to Redheads is because redheads make up only 1%-2% of all hair color in the world, which is really very very rare. To be honest I leave 'black' hair out of the Blog as well and 'black' hair is the most common color in the entire world ! Get ready though ... I need to make up for that, to both categories of hair color. Just remember, because the level system 'can' be used, but not exactly the same, we both have much more limited choices than our brunette counter-parts !

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/xx-redhead-row-hair-color-for-redheads
from Deep Dark Red
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/xx-redhead-row-hair-color-for-redheads
...to ... Light Faded Copper
 Just to establish my red hair color & Level so you can see if your own is similar and if not how different it is. My own red hair is considered Copper level 8GR, just like everyone I hated the gold or brass in my color. Which for the longest time was highlighted with blond, which took the copper and made it a Level 12 blond. I look back at photos now and still like my color best at that stage, I kept it that way most of my life, until I entered the Vidal Sassoon Academy. Just like in the rest of my life......in my particular Class I was the ONLY red head. I wish Google was around in those days as you could not research like you can today. 

Today you can make such a much more "informed" choice, not that I would have made any different choice, because I wouldn't have. But as far as looking ahead to what I was getting myself into would've been nicer. I am sure those of you who are redheads out there have experienced the exact same rarity that I have. I don't care what non-reds say, it is difficult growing up redhead. I don't care how many people tell you how lucky you are. I'm not sure about many of you, but I kind of was raked over the coals when I was younger with my blazing red hair freckles and white skin....just not a pretty picture living 20 minutes from Malibu Beach. No matter what I tried, I could not get tan and boy did I stand out.

Those are my experiences, I would love to hear from other redhead out there????. Being as not one other member in my family had anything close to red hair....... I have blond and brunette brothers! I am told my Grandmother had red hair but I never met her so I had a very confusing childhood with the hair color. I hated it and bugged my mom for years to let me change it. Once I began getting blond highlights I liked my hair a lot better.

What other color would a red head want ? Every one I have ever talked to has wanted to be blond, because if you use the Level chart which you can transfer over to reds, Levels 6 thru 10 can be red and those numbers are in the blond range. The Level chart is a chart of lightness and darkness ......so the Levels can be transferred over in certain ranges. I haven't done a lot of redheads in my life if you ask a busy colorist how many redheads they have many of them will say ZERO! I only had 2 in a very busy clientele of 15 years. I had a lot of natural brunettes want to be redheads and especially in the last year with Jessica Chastain. 
http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/xx-redhead-row-hair-color-for-redheads
Jessica Chastain
 I believe Chastain has single-handedly changed the public's view of red hair. When her film won the academy award I began to notice and feel a huge 'shift' in everyone's POV of the hair color. Which to be honest I had felt back when Nicole Kidman won her Acadmy Award so I call it Oscar Red. When an Oscar follows a redhead down the aisle...the shift in how the country feels about redheads changes and I LOVE IT!

 The rules are not exactly the same but basically they are. Like you can lift from a Level 6RG to a level 8RG by using a permanent Level 8RG on a Level 6RG and using which developer? 25 - 30 Volume - which lifts 1-2 Levels. Personally I have been all over the red scale pretty much every color you will see in the next photo display:

















The newest red-head chameleon is Miss Emma Roberts, she has opened the red world up to the younger set and I would like to thank her for the boost. Such a young girl being bold about her choices, I see her wearing wigs some of the time, which I will bet she has learned from some older actors. What do I mean by that? Many older actors refuse to color their hair a variety of colors in order to keep it healthy and strong. Some of them take younger actors under their wing and tell them to refuse various hair color changes. Once smart, they put it into their contracts in order to protect themselves. Its hard to do that when you are in the "up & coming" phase.

Remember the Jennifer Lawtrence Crop? That was due to hair that was breaking off-- not by choice. If you don't protect your hair the studio will not give a shit either. Sometimes you get Studio Execs making the decision on what color hair the actors hair should be when that is the LAST person who should be talking hair color.

I will delve into a couple different hair color processes for redhead's, in up coming Posts.... but I want to give you a sentence that is in many hair color guides from years past. I want you to be thinking about it so that you ask me some good questions.

The Rule about Redhead's is this and I didn't know this at the time I went blond, I finally found it in older hair color guides and it made things make sense for me & for you ! This is a very old rule from the 50's even !
                              " True Redheads Should Not Be Colored Blond" !  

The person that asked me to write about Redheads being colored Blond needs to tell us what she is talking about.....do you mean Redheads that are colored Red or true redheads? BIG DIFFERENCE!  Actually I will tell you both I will also tell you about my adventures to Blond. 

Killerstrands




Hair Color Bleach Bath...Are U Kidding Me...Do Not Do This !

Wow, I am just not paying attention to the weird things people are making up on the Internet. Counterfeit products, applications that do not work.

If you don't see something in this Blog, about what you are about to undertake. I am telling you, 
DO
NOT
DO
IT


Why do I say this?

Because no new science has been developed, I promise you when new techniques or products - OF ANY KIND - are:
  • developed........... 
  • tested and had at least 1 year of practical application (outside the lab)                    
  •                                   
  •  
  •  
  •                                     this is what you can end up with, be very careful
I WILL WRITE A POST ABOUT IT OR THEM                         I PROMISE!

Whether I carry them or not !


OK? 

In order for new products to be developed in the hair color industry, something absolutely remarkable had to have been discovered and there has to NOT be a giant Corporation behind it. Giant Corporations, rarely discover anything new. 
Why?
They won't put any money into a gamble. 
What they will do, is copy another company. 

So, 
family-owned companies are who really develop new and interesting products or applications. But do your research on whatever site you are on and which hair GURU you follow! There are now, lots of imitators now and I always told my kids not to carry if people copied you

There are a couple new products that have come out this year, but they have not had enough testing in my book to bring them to "CRIB COLORISTS"  especially. As talented as you all may feel you are
 because of humongous influx of hair color education on the web now.

I have found my first huge # 1 Complete BALONEY Idea
a
Hair Color Bleach Bath ???? ... like wtf ?

  The name of the application that this is piggy-backing off of is truly called a "Soap Cap", which is a 60 year old term with a 100 year old name. Why do I say that about the name? because the name is ridiculous, and does not reflect what happens when a trained professional does this. I'm telling you that I have never thought that every Hair Color and Styling application can be done at home. A whole lot of them 'can'.....and those I am happy to educate you in. The true...authentic....Sassoon taught method. 

Why do I say Sassoon? In the hair world the 2 Vidal Sassoon Academies - ( yes, in the whole world there are only 2 Sassoon Academies) -  are referred to as the "HARVARD" of Hair Academies. Its like a boot camp - they spend the first 6 weeks trying to break the people who cannot handle the tough - British - Training. The British are a completely different breed than Americans. They don't respect you if you have enough money to be able to afford the Academy, or the money to put you up for a year in the area of one of the 2 schools. They only want people who will carry on the true artistic vision of a superior method of doing hair....both Hair Color, Hair Cutting and Hair Styling. They only want the best, they want true Hair Artists and I didn't even realize that 'truly' until I left the Academy world after 2 years and became involved in the world of the "Salon". Which, again is completely different than being in and around the Academy World. I would watch all the other stylists in one of the 2 Salons I worked, and was shocked at the inept training everyone had.

 In the instance,  someone took,  what Color Correction Specialists do in very rare occasions, changed the name, and made ...  up some Baloney instructions to a 
technique that does not exist and none of you should be doing. 

EVER !
This really will leave you with destroyed and damaged hair and doing this is not AT ALL what 'that ' procedure that (btw has a completely different name) was developed for.  So it defeats my whole reason and vision for being here. Which is to 'educate' you in the best and most 'HEALTHY' methods for caring for your hair at home and to tell you 'when' it is time to head to a Salon. Be careful what you read and come back here and ask a question in the comments or join our Group to be guided down the correct path.

Thanks Everyone

KillerStrands



Eyebrows Look Better When They Are Tinted - PERIOD !!

I'm a light Redhead and started tinting my eyebrows when I was 18, a millennium ago! I had been told......by my brow shaper ( I had Andy Rooney Eyebrow shapes) ...that you just cannot see your brows at ALL and it makes your face look both unbalanced and unnatural. 

Boy, was that a shock, but in all honesty once she tinted them...I saw how right she was. I like beauty experts who just tell it like it is!

I am not the woman that goes and get a million beauty things done to myself, but was born with odd hair and odd coloring so some things JUST HAD TO BE DONE ! Working in a Salon, in my later years, I had access to everything and did only the mere basics. But Eyebrow Coloring is a must in my opinion - I would say we did it to 80% - 90% of all clients when working in the Salon. I have a lot of requests for an easy manner in which to do this....we have a popular kit in the store, all you have to do is fill in the Level and Tone of your hair and actually "I" calculate them all

I think eyebrows on just about everyone should be between the Levels of 4 & 8
so that's not many levels of hair color we have to deal with. 
Depending on your submission to me, I will even choose different lines of color according to what I feel will work better.


Then the other half of your formula will be the "TONE" you hope to be.  I am going to give you some examples to give you an idea.
Lets take these girls, for 'rights and wrongs' :

In my opinion her brows should be 1 Level lighter which would be a Level 7 Neutral-Beige



 







Here is perfect example of color to hair Level 6B Hair the same in the browa
 










Many new blonde's ask about having blond brows, this is why you don't !
 










This is why you darken the brows - when blond...to 'even-out' the 'look' of the face... she has Level 10 hair YET Level 6.5NB Brow.
 










Even with Level 1 Black hair , look how beautiful of a brow a lightened brow looks on her. Level 6.5NB ( same as the blond above) , superbly shaped. Most African Americans will bleach the brows completely then tint back with a lighter color. Oprah also uses that method of coloring her brows.
 











With this example the top shows how they look , when colored and shaped while being colored ( color expands so you have to watch and shape as you go) - leaving the color on 45-55 minutes or it won't last long. Even if there are no hairs there the tint, dyes the little hairs you have on your face to give the illusion of a nicely tinted and shaped brow.








 Big mistake here...2 actually, the color is too yellow and she needed 1 more application .......AND......... the brows are too dark. Yes Blonde's should have darker brows but NOT this dark. This is a Level 5 brow which I wouldn't even recommend for a Brunette! I'm sure this was fixed in 24 hours when they got the proofs of the photos!
Perfectly colored Level 6.5NB brow. that's why I feel even having 1/2 shades are very important. I will send you the exact colors when you order.

















Isn't she the most beautiful person - wow. She has thinned and by thinning lightened her brow about 1 Level. That is a tricky maneuvar and I would not suggest doing this at home. Find a brow expert.
 
















Another one who usually gets it right, but her brows must be bleached because she is a brunette truly...they need a tinting of a 6.5 - 7 NB, these are no where to be seen and when you cannnot see a brow it is is weird looking .....it just is !
 
















Last one, see even 50 years ago Marilyn got it right, they are a beautiful  shade of 6.5NB and showed be what Miss Gynweth (above) has on her million dollar head as well.

 Now in every eyebrow formula 1/2 the formula needs to be a Neutral ( or in other words a "N")
the other half needs to be the tone you are heading for.
So you will be purchasing 2 tubes of Color which should last you minimum 2 years.
Eyebrows are small and the shelf like of hair color is 2 years. You must be very very careful not to keep the top off the bottle of developer or it will loose it's "punch" as we refer to it...and that is important in this little hair coloring endeavor I feel everyone should do.

What you never want is blond eyebrows if you have lightened your hair, that is simply an 'odd' look, and if you don't believe me - just try -it....and see the reactions you get. Platinum's look best with a cashmere brown brow even.

So you will be choosing from 1 of these to be 'half' of your formula, this color determines the lightness or darkness you want your brows to become:

5-0N
5.5
6-0N
6.5
7-0N
7.5
8-0N

So now you get a good idea of some of those colors up above, just fill in your colors in the box at check-out and you will receive the coolest little Brow Tinting Kit around !

Killer Chemist







And You Thought A Hair Brush Was Just A Brush . . . .





I will never forget the first week of Vidal Sassoon BOOT Camp as I endearingly called it.
They threw our List of Tools "TO PURCHASE - ASAP " at us.

Y O U
NEED
to BUY THIS LIST
OR FORGET SHOWING UP

( yep, that was the ambiance of V.Sassoon; you come to appreciate it )

How many of you have one of these brushes?

I was stunned, thought I knew everything. Thought I had tested and tried every hair product and tool on the market and I would have the best loot. Ha!

Never go to school in your late 30's and think you KNOW-IT-ALL . . . .
never-never-never-never!
Because soon, you will learn how little
you do
and not just about school supplies
"life" is an even bigger SHOCK

Denman brushes were thrown at us....
a 9-Row Denman,
a 7-Row Denman,
a DenmanVent Brush,
a Denman Paddle was a bit newer and once I learned....began buying them on my own without anyone 'forcing' me to. I just don't do well with someone 'forcing' me to do anything...maybe THAT was the problem. Either way these brushes were just weird looking...and I thought these damn Brits, they just don't know quality products.

You guessed it. . . . I was wrong one more time.
I continued to be wrong much of my career at Vidal Sassoon.
Which had to do a lot with me staying on a full extra year... just Assisting, Interning, doing anything they would let me, so I could soak up all the brilliance there - - that I was just too stubborn to be receptive of that first year. I mean I could ace the tests, but until you take down a wall of " you damn Brits don't know anything" - - well you really don't learn or absorb much, I can now admit to. You only learn what is necessary to get by.
I didn't want to do hair that way.
I wanted to be the best, like I strive to in every other aspect of my life.
Miss Petty Perfect . . . yep that's me!

So anyway, lets get back to the tools they made us buy and my surprise at the list of those brushes.
There was a 'method behind their madness'..........I did discover that.
Denman brushes as goofy as they look ( now they don't to me, but I STILL remember when they did) have a Sassoon PURPOSE.... they way they are made, WHAT they are made of and HOW they are made.
As silly & lame as I thought were.....needed to be eliminated from my mind if I were to cozy up to these weird things - and get my technique down.

Denman Brushes began their long career in 1938, in London, England.
Sassoon of course began his life in 1928, in London England.
Mr. Sassoon segregated to Beverly Hills after splitting up his empire by selling the Salons and Schools to a British Duo --> Annie Humphries and Tim Hartley....and the "products" which bear his name to Proctor & Gamble the King of hair care ( and Advertising) in America.

When we were first introduced to these brushes in Hair Academy, most of us were a bit shocked. They didn’t look like anything special and frankly seemed like cheap drugstore brushes and it wasn't just me, you have kids from all over the world in classes there - everyone agreed. But, there was "no choice" in the matter - we either had them or we were "out"... that school is not very forgiving.

However, after many months of blow drying practice (which they do much too much of at Sassoon, although it turned out I was grateful for, eventually ;-), it became crystal to all of us, why this line of brushes is used.
All top European Hair Stylists (which is the home to the best hair in the world), taught with these at both Vidal Sassoon Academy’s and finally all of Denman’s brushes are used in every Sassoon Salon worldwide, exclusively.

Soon as all the Flat Iron’s slowly burn every hair off of every clients head … the use of them will slowly diminish and the Denman 9-Row and unfortunately the ‘round-brush will return to everyday use by everyone.
For the first 7-8 years I never used a round brush as Sassoon doesn’t believe in them (AT ALL!), their philosophy is: If you are a refined enough hairdresser than you should be able to get any curl or any amount of straightening one needs out of a Denman Brush – it is so much healthier for the hair …than one can get out of a round brush…..and you know what?
They are right.
100% right.
With enough practice – which you DO get there, they feel one can make the hair do anything one needs with a 9-ROW DENMAN.
They do NOT concentrate on passing the State Board Tests, while you are there (the ONLY thing regular Beauty Schools spend their time on)…Sassoon feels you should do that studying at home and on your own time, they feel anyone can pass that silly test....and again, they are right.

When you begin there... that thought is a bit daunting – - – to say the least – - – but as you become accustomed to their regimen & protocol and if you relish and appreciate ’Excellence’{as I do so very-very much} as opposed to ‘Average’…it makes all the sense in the world.

The brush you use on your hair truly is extremely important.
Every Denman brush :
  • Excellent quality
  • Easy to work with
  • Perfect for non-tangling + Styling while blow drying
Forget the Flat Iron, Bring Back the Blow Dry – your hair will love you for it!
Denman makes a huge variety of brushes – we only offer 2 right now...
but more are on their way as they have expanded their quill of weapons (wink-wink)

This is the best all around brush I have found. truthfully

For detangling, smoothing and grooming all types of medium to very long hair, try the DENMAN Paddle Brush.
Features and Benefits:
  • Air-cushioned rubber pad for gentle control
  • Ball-tipped nylon pins for comfortable styling and maximum comfort
  • Staggered pin pattern follows the contours of the head
  • Ergonomic design for balance with a textured non-slip handle
  • Ideal for scalp massages
  • Hygienic and durable with resistance to heat and chemicals
  • Made in the United Kingdom
Brush Care:
  1. Regularly remove loose hairs with a comb
  2. Wash occasionally in warm water ensuring that the air hole is covered
  3. Rinse and leave to dry away from direct heat and sunlight
Especially for the price....as much a I use my brushes,
these things last forever.
I never want to say anything but I think they are a helluva 'buy'




. . . perfect for the present economy


How to -- Begin Sectioning Hair to Apply Haircolor To Oneself ...............Crib Colorists Style

There are thousands of rules on application of hair color and with this new re-vamp of the Blog.... I have truly realized that there are thousands of points I have missed about everything. Seems hard to do considering there are 600 Posts written already...but a perfectionist is never satisfied....which can be a good thing and a bad thing....   Good for all of you who are yearning to learn.Bad for me, I already have enough on my plate  -- but April is going to help me this time, so we are very lucky!. But whatever, the number doesn't matter the education does and I started out wanting  a great education for Crib Colorists and I continue to want the exact same thing.

Lets Just Start with some Basic Tips about applying hair color and see where it leads us!

Hair coloring should be applied methodically

  • Quarter PART the hair......remember : 
  • NOSE to SPINE.....and
  •  Ear- to - Ear  with the tail point of a tail comb '




The Terror of Chlorine on the Health Of Hair & My Tricky Solution for Prevention

We all want healthy shiny luxurious hair, but like losing weight, we don't want to do the work NEEDED to achieve it. For the summer we all want to be able to go swimming, in the pool ....in the ocean...without adding to the daily destruction of our hair. So a long time ago when I was a long distance swimmer, there was a trick I came up with and it truly works.

I think by now we all know that a single human hair is built of keratin, which is a protein, whose major components are amino acids. Hairs are covered with natural oil (sebum) that gives hairs their shine and flexibility. The color of hair depends on relative content of each of the two melanin variants.



 
Chlorine
Chlorine is added to water in swimming pools and spas in order to reduce the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria and viruses. The chlorine that is able to sanitize contaminants is called “free” chlorine. The level of “free” chlorine in swimming pool should be between 1 and 3 ppm (parts per million), and between 3 and 5 ppm for spas. 

The total amount of chlorine in water is the sum of “free” active chlorine and “combined” inactive chlorine, which has reacted with contaminants. Other chemical properties of water, which have to be controlled because of the effect they have on water and pool equipment, are: total hardness, total alkalinity and pH, which measures relative acidity/alkalinity of water.
Chlorine (hypochlorous acid) reacts quickly with organic and non-organic materials present in swimming pool water. Because of its chemical activity, chlorine also affects hair of swimmers.

How does Chlorine affect Hair?..........not well, I'm Afraid. . .
Chlorine affects hair by direct chemical reactions resulting in chemical changes to hair components, by changing physical properties of the hair, as well as by changing electrical charge of minerals bonded to hair and reacting with those minerals.



The direct chemical changes include reactions of chlorine with pigments giving hair their color, oils covering hair and proteins forming hair shafts. The reaction of melanin pigments with chlorine results in change of hair from natural colo'r (blond to black) to straw color of keratin.

Chlorine removes natural oils covering hair resulting in loss of hair shine and flexibility, as well as making it more susceptible to mechanical damage. Reaction of chlorine with keratin results in creation of water-soluble chemicals and weakens chemical bonds between fibers forming hair shafts. 

Also chlorine can get between the hair fibers. As the crystallization process develops inside the hair, the chlorine crystals can separate the hair fibres disrupting structural integrity of hair shaft, which weakens the strength of the overall hair as well.

 Once the bonds are broken, the hair becomes weak and ends of the hairs split.

Chlorine salt crystallization process may also affect the hair cuticle. The cuticle is an outer layer of very hard, dead cells over the hair surface. If the chlorine gets between the scales it could push up the scales; therefore, making it rough and prone to damage or breakage. These flaked cuticles reflect light poorly and so the hair fiber looks dull, dry and may feel rough when touched.  Chlorine can change electrical charge of minerals bonded to hair and oxidize them as well.






 Head to the local Drug Store with your list for 3 items:
  • Shampoo & Conditioner- if you have to get it at the Drug Store, the choices are all so bad anyway, it really doesn't matter which ones! They are all horrible! remember this is only if you did not "PLAN AHEAD".
  •  Swim Cap, they have them everywhere
  • Lastly.....6-Pack of CANNED SODA WATER.

Shampoo your hair rinse in water, apply conditioner..............a lot of it...... ! ! ! 

LEAVE THE CONDITIONER IN  !!!   Apply Swim Cap.. 

Now have the time of your life !
 Done swimming? Take 2-3 cans of SODA WATER, pour on hair to stop all action of chlorinated water from affecting the hair at all! 

If you do plan ahead please purchase:
 Malibu 2000 UN DOO GOO shampoo  or 
Malibu 2000 swimmers shampoo .....or
swimmers treatment pack 


thanx,

kc



High-Lift Blonde Versus Bleach . . . Which Is Healthier For The Hair

............. is one of the #1 asked question of going Blonde. The decision for each of your hair should be simple. If there is brass of any sort after using Level 12 with double 40 Volume. Then you should use Cream lightener, If its beautiful after Level 10,11 or 12. Then that should be your choice

Almost always you get 2 different colors from the 2 procedures on the same hair....one person doesn't like the color she gets from the high-lift, but is very concerned about the health of her hair.
Here's what I have experienced:
Certain Level 7''s can achieve a gorgeous blonde with Level 11 or 12 or Level 12 with a booster...
Certain Level 7's cannot - it still has brass in it so you end up constantly applying Toners and purple shampoos / conditioners - - the more you do shit like that - it DOES take its toll on your hair.
The goal is to achieve the lightest blonde so you don't have to use Toners or anything else so that its a color that is beautiful and you can live with it.
If you can achieve that with a Level 12 & double 40V............then that should always be your first choice.


On the same subject, if you use bleach, it should be cream bleach - NEVER POWDER....
and Gleam, Intensive should be used & THRIVEN should always be left in overnight. ...after the application of either, if you take the time to do it right, then you will not have damage.

Aveda makes one of the worst colors and lighteners on planet earth, so I would stay away from that line completely ever again. Never use powder lightener. That's what cream lightener is made for, why don't people use it more???
Its more expensive.
but as a Crib colorist you are only doing your own hair so it shouldn't be that bad
The most important part of blonding are the other steps you do:
If you do this every time with 1 -2 Thriven treatments in between you should have


Hair Color & How the Application Process is Accomplished Properly

1.) Haircoloring should be applied methodically. Quarter the hair: part the center-front to center-back and ear to ear. then apply color along these lines first.Apply the color the same way every time, you will begin to get the rhythym and find yourself covering every inch and completing faster and faster. 
Then take thin sections as you go up the quarter and I promisae you it is faster ( and I know it doesn't seem so) trust me. The color will go on more evenly.
 
2.) Color will be applied to any areas that require the longest timing ....and what would that be? the grayest of the gray when covering gray, the darkest area when lightening.

3.) A good application saturates the hair thoroughly, but does not smother it. Oxidation color needs exposure to O-X-Y-G-E-N and doesn't get it if you have 2 tons of hair color on each section ! Dont be stingy either -- wet the hairthoroughly, paint it thinly in color -- but, don't cake it on.

4.) Don't pack the hair together for processing either. Loosen the hair, seperate the strands, so that air can get to it. 


5.) When your application is complete, check it. Always check it ...even if you think it was perfect. you can take a 1 inch piece of hair with color all over it, grab your Tail Comb get in front of a mirror with bright lighting and scrspe the color OFF of that once inch strand....hold the hair around your GLOVED finger....wiping and scraping the color OFF to look and see if it is correct. It does take time and experience but if you have left it to the longest processing time, it is almost always a winner.

Processing Time
Unless it says it on the directions... the timing is begun when you are finished with applying the color.. Lay down your tint brush and ALWAYS pick-up a timer - immediately ! - or your phone. If you begin the timing from when completed my rule is 40-45 minutes. If its highlift Blonde  it should be 1 hour. 
Bleach is on a case by case basis.

I happen to believe that the short processing time on professional color is that way to appeal to busy Colorists, who are in a Salon and have to jam in 20 clients a day. They want that color to work fast. I tested it back when I was in the Salon....and found with every brand the color turned out so much better when we left it on 45- to 75 minutes. If you have a specific processing question you can join our Group or ask me a question in the comments section -below- although that is the last place I get to... after making my rounds.




There are strict rules that State Boards of Cosmetology set out to uphold, are odd & weird, but I suppose I see some justice in them....when just starting out. As a home hair Colorist I would like to emphasize that it will be in your best interest to follow some of these rules .

 What you are supposed to do is determine where in the 4 quarters of the head you should 'begin the application of color". 
Remember how I have explained: dividing the hair into quarters... in order to apply the color.... in an organized fashion?? Like you see in these illustrations:



If you use this set-up, I promise you will become a Crib Colorist much easier.

Lets make it easier, because we all know applying color to yourself is not the easiest thing in the world .

RE-TOUCH APPLICATION
These are pretty self explanatory, for the most part. Apply the formula to the new growth and avoid overlapping ... but you will always  want to grab your comb:
  • apply a few squirts of Gleam to your hair and comb it through with a wide tooth comb
  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section with the most gray in it....start ON the gray on the scalp edge first - as well. Having the hair color on the 'gray hair' the longest will  help in coverage, by being on the hair longer..
  • I cannot give hard fast rules about "pulling through". Pulling through is what you will do after you have gone around and tinted the base ( new growth), if you are tinting hair Level 7 or darker  (depending on the health)...almost all of you will be pulling through the extra tint you have in the bowl to refresh the color on your lengths. To be honest you kind of carefully apply it to the lengths QUICKLY  and carefully spread it around with a tint brush and comb it through  the strands with an application comb so the color will go all the way through.
  • Now you blondes, you don't have much to gain by pulling through, so do not just do it because you've read about the term or heard it from a girlfriend. Blondes, remember, are removing hair color in order to make the hair blonde. So, if you were to repeat it , you would do nothing but  damage and deplete the strength of your hair and ends. Many times I would use a tint brush and brush on THRIVEN or INTENSIVE while the base was processing! Then.....do the following:
  • If your ends are overporous you really need a new formula put on the ends, & this is where a really great Semi Permanent comes in and saves the day like a Prince!

It is one of the rules that were designed by the State Board of California, that I felt were more silly than anything, once I became a Colorist. These State Board tests have Roller Sets and finger waving in them which are such outdated techniques it was always hard to pay attention to anything they taught. The V.Sassoon Academy gave ZERO respect to those tests, so I guess that just transferred over to me.

                                                                                                                                                           


 
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