Eyebrows Look Better When They Are Tinted - PERIOD !!

I'm a light Redhead and started tinting my eyebrows when I was 18, a millennium ago! I had been told......by my brow shaper ( I had Andy Rooney Eyebrow shapes) ...that you just cannot see your brows at ALL and it makes your face look both unbalanced and unnatural. 

Boy, was that a shock, but in all honesty once she tinted them...I saw how right she was. I like beauty experts who just tell it like it is!

I am not the woman that goes and get a million beauty things done to myself, but was born with odd hair and odd coloring so some things JUST HAD TO BE DONE ! Working in a Salon, in my later years, I had access to everything and did only the mere basics. But Eyebrow Coloring is a must in my opinion - I would say we did it to 80% - 90% of all clients when working in the Salon. I have a lot of requests for an easy manner in which to do this....we have a popular kit in the store, all you have to do is fill in the Level and Tone of your hair and actually "I" calculate them all

I think eyebrows on just about everyone should be between the Levels of 4 & 8
so that's not many levels of hair color we have to deal with. 
Depending on your submission to me, I will even choose different lines of color according to what I feel will work better.

Then the other half of your formula will be the "TONE" you hope to be.  I am going to give you some examples to give you an idea.
Lets take these girls, for 'rights and wrongs' :

In my opinion her brows should be 1 Level lighter which would be a Level 7 Neutral-Beige


Here is perfect example of color to hair Level 6B Hair the same in the browa

Many new blonde's ask about having blond brows, this is why you don't !

This is why you darken the brows - when blond...to 'even-out' the 'look' of the face... she has Level 10 hair YET Level 6.5NB Brow.

Even with Level 1 Black hair , look how beautiful of a brow a lightened brow looks on her. Level 6.5NB ( same as the blond above) , superbly shaped. Most African Americans will bleach the brows completely then tint back with a lighter color. Oprah also uses that method of coloring her brows.

With this example the top shows how they look , when colored and shaped while being colored ( color expands so you have to watch and shape as you go) - leaving the color on 45-55 minutes or it won't last long. Even if there are no hairs there the tint, dyes the little hairs you have on your face to give the illusion of a nicely tinted and shaped brow.

 Big mistake here...2 actually, the color is too yellow and she needed 1 more application .......AND......... the brows are too dark. Yes Blonde's should have darker brows but NOT this dark. This is a Level 5 brow which I wouldn't even recommend for a Brunette! I'm sure this was fixed in 24 hours when they got the proofs of the photos!
Perfectly colored Level 6.5NB brow. that's why I feel even having 1/2 shades are very important. I will send you the exact colors when you order.

Isn't she the most beautiful person - wow. She has thinned and by thinning lightened her brow about 1 Level. That is a tricky maneuvar and I would not suggest doing this at home. Find a brow expert.

Another one who usually gets it right, but her brows must be bleached because she is a brunette truly...they need a tinting of a 6.5 - 7 NB, these are no where to be seen and when you cannnot see a brow it is is weird looking .....it just is !

Last one, see even 50 years ago Marilyn got it right, they are a beautiful  shade of 6.5NB and showed be what Miss Gynweth (above) has on her million dollar head as well.

 Now in every eyebrow formula 1/2 the formula needs to be a Neutral ( or in other words a "N")
the other half needs to be the tone you are heading for.
So you will be purchasing 2 tubes of Color which should last you minimum 2 years.
Eyebrows are small and the shelf like of hair color is 2 years. You must be very very careful not to keep the top off the bottle of developer or it will loose it's "punch" as we refer to it...and that is important in this little hair coloring endeavor I feel everyone should do.

What you never want is blond eyebrows if you have lightened your hair, that is simply an 'odd' look, and if you don't believe me - just try -it....and see the reactions you get. Platinum's look best with a cashmere brown brow even.

So you will be choosing from 1 of these to be 'half' of your formula, this color determines the lightness or darkness you want your brows to become:


So now you get a good idea of some of those colors up above, just fill in your colors in the box at check-out and you will receive the coolest little Brow Tinting Kit around !

Killer Chemist

And You Thought A Hair Brush Was Just A Brush . . . .

I will never forget the first week of Vidal Sassoon BOOT Camp as I endearingly called it.
They threw our List of Tools "TO PURCHASE - ASAP " at us.


( yep, that was the ambiance of V.Sassoon; you come to appreciate it )

How many of you have one of these brushes?

I was stunned, thought I knew everything. Thought I had tested and tried every hair product and tool on the market and I would have the best loot. Ha!

Never go to school in your late 30's and think you KNOW-IT-ALL . . . .
Because soon, you will learn how little
you do
and not just about school supplies
"life" is an even bigger SHOCK

Denman brushes were thrown at us....
a 9-Row Denman,
a 7-Row Denman,
a DenmanVent Brush,
a Denman Paddle was a bit newer and once I learned....began buying them on my own without anyone 'forcing' me to. I just don't do well with someone 'forcing' me to do anything...maybe THAT was the problem. Either way these brushes were just weird looking...and I thought these damn Brits, they just don't know quality products.

You guessed it. . . . I was wrong one more time.
I continued to be wrong much of my career at Vidal Sassoon.
Which had to do a lot with me staying on a full extra year... just Assisting, Interning, doing anything they would let me, so I could soak up all the brilliance there - - that I was just too stubborn to be receptive of that first year. I mean I could ace the tests, but until you take down a wall of " you damn Brits don't know anything" - - well you really don't learn or absorb much, I can now admit to. You only learn what is necessary to get by.
I didn't want to do hair that way.
I wanted to be the best, like I strive to in every other aspect of my life.
Miss Petty Perfect . . . yep that's me!

So anyway, lets get back to the tools they made us buy and my surprise at the list of those brushes.
There was a 'method behind their madness'..........I did discover that.
Denman brushes as goofy as they look ( now they don't to me, but I STILL remember when they did) have a Sassoon PURPOSE.... they way they are made, WHAT they are made of and HOW they are made.
As silly & lame as I thought were.....needed to be eliminated from my mind if I were to cozy up to these weird things - and get my technique down.

Denman Brushes began their long career in 1938, in London, England.
Sassoon of course began his life in 1928, in London England.
Mr. Sassoon segregated to Beverly Hills after splitting up his empire by selling the Salons and Schools to a British Duo --> Annie Humphries and Tim Hartley....and the "products" which bear his name to Proctor & Gamble the King of hair care ( and Advertising) in America.

When we were first introduced to these brushes in Hair Academy, most of us were a bit shocked. They didn’t look like anything special and frankly seemed like cheap drugstore brushes and it wasn't just me, you have kids from all over the world in classes there - everyone agreed. But, there was "no choice" in the matter - we either had them or we were "out"... that school is not very forgiving.

However, after many months of blow drying practice (which they do much too much of at Sassoon, although it turned out I was grateful for, eventually ;-), it became crystal to all of us, why this line of brushes is used.
All top European Hair Stylists (which is the home to the best hair in the world), taught with these at both Vidal Sassoon Academy’s and finally all of Denman’s brushes are used in every Sassoon Salon worldwide, exclusively.

Soon as all the Flat Iron’s slowly burn every hair off of every clients head … the use of them will slowly diminish and the Denman 9-Row and unfortunately the ‘round-brush will return to everyday use by everyone.
For the first 7-8 years I never used a round brush as Sassoon doesn’t believe in them (AT ALL!), their philosophy is: If you are a refined enough hairdresser than you should be able to get any curl or any amount of straightening one needs out of a Denman Brush – it is so much healthier for the hair …than one can get out of a round brush…..and you know what?
They are right.
100% right.
With enough practice – which you DO get there, they feel one can make the hair do anything one needs with a 9-ROW DENMAN.
They do NOT concentrate on passing the State Board Tests, while you are there (the ONLY thing regular Beauty Schools spend their time on)…Sassoon feels you should do that studying at home and on your own time, they feel anyone can pass that silly test....and again, they are right.

When you begin there... that thought is a bit daunting – - – to say the least – - – but as you become accustomed to their regimen & protocol and if you relish and appreciate ’Excellence’{as I do so very-very much} as opposed to ‘Average’…it makes all the sense in the world.

The brush you use on your hair truly is extremely important.
Every Denman brush :
  • Excellent quality
  • Easy to work with
  • Perfect for non-tangling + Styling while blow drying
Forget the Flat Iron, Bring Back the Blow Dry – your hair will love you for it!
Denman makes a huge variety of brushes – we only offer 2 right now...
but more are on their way as they have expanded their quill of weapons (wink-wink)

This is the best all around brush I have found. truthfully

For detangling, smoothing and grooming all types of medium to very long hair, try the DENMAN Paddle Brush.
Features and Benefits:
  • Air-cushioned rubber pad for gentle control
  • Ball-tipped nylon pins for comfortable styling and maximum comfort
  • Staggered pin pattern follows the contours of the head
  • Ergonomic design for balance with a textured non-slip handle
  • Ideal for scalp massages
  • Hygienic and durable with resistance to heat and chemicals
  • Made in the United Kingdom
Brush Care:
  1. Regularly remove loose hairs with a comb
  2. Wash occasionally in warm water ensuring that the air hole is covered
  3. Rinse and leave to dry away from direct heat and sunlight
Especially for the price....as much a I use my brushes,
these things last forever.
I never want to say anything but I think they are a helluva 'buy'

. . . perfect for the present economy

How to -- Begin Sectioning Hair to Apply Haircolor To Oneself ...............Crib Colorists Style

There are thousands of rules on application of hair color and with this new re-vamp of the Blog.... I have truly realized that there are thousands of points I have missed about everything. Seems hard to do considering there are 600 Posts written already...but a perfectionist is never satisfied....which can be a good thing and a bad thing....   Good for all of you who are yearning to learn.Bad for me, I already have enough on my plate  -- but April is going to help me this time, so we are very lucky!. But whatever, the number doesn't matter the education does and I started out wanting  a great education for Crib Colorists and I continue to want the exact same thing.

Lets Just Start with some Basic Tips about applying hair color and see where it leads us!

Hair coloring should be applied methodically

  • Quarter PART the hair......remember : 
  • NOSE to SPINE.....and
  •  Ear- to - Ear  with the tail point of a tail comb '

The Terror of Chlorine on the Health Of Hair & My Tricky Solution for Prevention

We all want healthy shiny luxurious hair, but like losing weight, we don't want to do the work NEEDED to achieve it. For the summer we all want to be able to go swimming, in the pool ....in the ocean...without adding to the daily destruction of our hair. So a long time ago when I was a long distance swimmer, there was a trick I came up with and it truly works.

I think by now we all know that a single human hair is built of keratin, which is a protein, whose major components are amino acids. Hairs are covered with natural oil (sebum) that gives hairs their shine and flexibility. The color of hair depends on relative content of each of the two melanin variants.

Chlorine is added to water in swimming pools and spas in order to reduce the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria and viruses. The chlorine that is able to sanitize contaminants is called “free” chlorine. The level of “free” chlorine in swimming pool should be between 1 and 3 ppm (parts per million), and between 3 and 5 ppm for spas. 

The total amount of chlorine in water is the sum of “free” active chlorine and “combined” inactive chlorine, which has reacted with contaminants. Other chemical properties of water, which have to be controlled because of the effect they have on water and pool equipment, are: total hardness, total alkalinity and pH, which measures relative acidity/alkalinity of water.
Chlorine (hypochlorous acid) reacts quickly with organic and non-organic materials present in swimming pool water. Because of its chemical activity, chlorine also affects hair of swimmers.

How does Chlorine affect Hair?..........not well, I'm Afraid. . .
Chlorine affects hair by direct chemical reactions resulting in chemical changes to hair components, by changing physical properties of the hair, as well as by changing electrical charge of minerals bonded to hair and reacting with those minerals.

The direct chemical changes include reactions of chlorine with pigments giving hair their color, oils covering hair and proteins forming hair shafts. The reaction of melanin pigments with chlorine results in change of hair from natural colo'r (blond to black) to straw color of keratin.

Chlorine removes natural oils covering hair resulting in loss of hair shine and flexibility, as well as making it more susceptible to mechanical damage. Reaction of chlorine with keratin results in creation of water-soluble chemicals and weakens chemical bonds between fibers forming hair shafts. 

Also chlorine can get between the hair fibers. As the crystallization process develops inside the hair, the chlorine crystals can separate the hair fibres disrupting structural integrity of hair shaft, which weakens the strength of the overall hair as well.

 Once the bonds are broken, the hair becomes weak and ends of the hairs split.

Chlorine salt crystallization process may also affect the hair cuticle. The cuticle is an outer layer of very hard, dead cells over the hair surface. If the chlorine gets between the scales it could push up the scales; therefore, making it rough and prone to damage or breakage. These flaked cuticles reflect light poorly and so the hair fiber looks dull, dry and may feel rough when touched.  Chlorine can change electrical charge of minerals bonded to hair and oxidize them as well.

 Head to the local Drug Store with your list for 3 items:
  • Shampoo & Conditioner- if you have to get it at the Drug Store, the choices are all so bad anyway, it really doesn't matter which ones! They are all horrible! remember this is only if you did not "PLAN AHEAD".
  •  Swim Cap, they have them everywhere
  • Lastly.....6-Pack of CANNED SODA WATER.

Shampoo your hair rinse in water, apply conditioner..............a lot of it...... ! ! ! 

LEAVE THE CONDITIONER IN  !!!   Apply Swim Cap.. 

Now have the time of your life !
 Done swimming? Take 2-3 cans of SODA WATER, pour on hair to stop all action of chlorinated water from affecting the hair at all! 

If you do plan ahead please purchase:
 Malibu 2000 UN DOO GOO shampoo  or 
Malibu 2000 swimmers shampoo .....or
swimmers treatment pack 



High-Lift Blonde Versus Bleach . . . Which Is Healthier For The Hair

............. is one of the #1 asked question of going Blonde. The decision for each of your hair should be simple. If there is brass of any sort after using Level 12 with double 40 Volume. Then you should use Cream lightener, If its beautiful after Level 10,11 or 12. Then that should be your choice

Almost always you get 2 different colors from the 2 procedures on the same hair....one person doesn't like the color she gets from the high-lift, but is very concerned about the health of her hair.
Here's what I have experienced:
Certain Level 7''s can achieve a gorgeous blonde with Level 11 or 12 or Level 12 with a booster...
Certain Level 7's cannot - it still has brass in it so you end up constantly applying Toners and purple shampoos / conditioners - - the more you do shit like that - it DOES take its toll on your hair.
The goal is to achieve the lightest blonde so you don't have to use Toners or anything else so that its a color that is beautiful and you can live with it.
If you can achieve that with a Level 12 & double 40V............then that should always be your first choice.

On the same subject, if you use bleach, it should be cream bleach - NEVER POWDER....
and Gleam, Intensive should be used & THRIVEN should always be left in overnight. ...after the application of either, if you take the time to do it right, then you will not have damage.

Aveda makes one of the worst colors and lighteners on planet earth, so I would stay away from that line completely ever again. Never use powder lightener. That's what cream lightener is made for, why don't people use it more???
Its more expensive.
but as a Crib colorist you are only doing your own hair so it shouldn't be that bad
The most important part of blonding are the other steps you do:
If you do this every time with 1 -2 Thriven treatments in between you should have

Hair Color & How the Application Process is Accomplished Properly

1.) Haircoloring should be applied methodically. Quarter the hair: part the center-front to center-back and ear to ear. then apply color along these lines first.Apply the color the same way every time, you will begin to get the rhythym and find yourself covering every inch and completing faster and faster. 
Then take thin sections as you go up the quarter and I promisae you it is faster ( and I know it doesn't seem so) trust me. The color will go on more evenly.
2.) Color will be applied to any areas that require the longest timing ....and what would that be? the grayest of the gray when covering gray, the darkest area when lightening.

3.) A good application saturates the hair thoroughly, but does not smother it. Oxidation color needs exposure to O-X-Y-G-E-N and doesn't get it if you have 2 tons of hair color on each section ! Dont be stingy either -- wet the hairthoroughly, paint it thinly in color -- but, don't cake it on.

4.) Don't pack the hair together for processing either. Loosen the hair, seperate the strands, so that air can get to it. 

5.) When your application is complete, check it. Always check it ...even if you think it was perfect. you can take a 1 inch piece of hair with color all over it, grab your Tail Comb get in front of a mirror with bright lighting and scrspe the color OFF of that once inch strand....hold the hair around your GLOVED finger....wiping and scraping the color OFF to look and see if it is correct. It does take time and experience but if you have left it to the longest processing time, it is almost always a winner.

Processing Time
Unless it says it on the directions... the timing is begun when you are finished with applying the color.. Lay down your tint brush and ALWAYS pick-up a timer - immediately ! - or your phone. If you begin the timing from when completed my rule is 40-45 minutes. If its highlift Blonde  it should be 1 hour. 
Bleach is on a case by case basis.

I happen to believe that the short processing time on professional color is that way to appeal to busy Colorists, who are in a Salon and have to jam in 20 clients a day. They want that color to work fast. I tested it back when I was in the Salon....and found with every brand the color turned out so much better when we left it on 45- to 75 minutes. If you have a specific processing question you can join our Group or ask me a question in the comments section -below- although that is the last place I get to... after making my rounds.

There are strict rules that State Boards of Cosmetology set out to uphold, are odd & weird, but I suppose I see some justice in them....when just starting out. As a home hair Colorist I would like to emphasize that it will be in your best interest to follow some of these rules .

 What you are supposed to do is determine where in the 4 quarters of the head you should 'begin the application of color". 
Remember how I have explained: dividing the hair into quarters... in order to apply the color.... in an organized fashion?? Like you see in these illustrations:

If you use this set-up, I promise you will become a Crib Colorist much easier.

Lets make it easier, because we all know applying color to yourself is not the easiest thing in the world .

These are pretty self explanatory, for the most part. Apply the formula to the new growth and avoid overlapping ... but you will always  want to grab your comb:
  • apply a few squirts of Gleam to your hair and comb it through with a wide tooth comb
  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section with the most gray in it....start ON the gray on the scalp edge first - as well. Having the hair color on the 'gray hair' the longest will  help in coverage, by being on the hair longer..
  • I cannot give hard fast rules about "pulling through". Pulling through is what you will do after you have gone around and tinted the base ( new growth), if you are tinting hair Level 7 or darker  (depending on the health)...almost all of you will be pulling through the extra tint you have in the bowl to refresh the color on your lengths. To be honest you kind of carefully apply it to the lengths QUICKLY  and carefully spread it around with a tint brush and comb it through  the strands with an application comb so the color will go all the way through.
  • Now you blondes, you don't have much to gain by pulling through, so do not just do it because you've read about the term or heard it from a girlfriend. Blondes, remember, are removing hair color in order to make the hair blonde. So, if you were to repeat it , you would do nothing but  damage and deplete the strength of your hair and ends. Many times I would use a tint brush and brush on THRIVEN or INTENSIVE while the base was processing! Then.....do the following:
  • If your ends are overporous you really need a new formula put on the ends, & this is where a really great Semi Permanent comes in and saves the day like a Prince!

It is one of the rules that were designed by the State Board of California, that I felt were more silly than anything, once I became a Colorist. These State Board tests have Roller Sets and finger waving in them which are such outdated techniques it was always hard to pay attention to anything they taught. The V.Sassoon Academy gave ZERO respect to those tests, so I guess that just transferred over to me.


A Brand New Design, For A Very Old Blog - How Refreshing !

Welcome to the new 

                            beautiful world of Hair,

              through my eye's
                    my brand new beautiful
                                           re-designed Blog

Thank You Lindsey...............for all the help


Getting Comfortable with 'Developer' While Coloring your Hair

Wow, I just did a small Search on hair and hair chemistry and cannot believe the amount of other sites there are out there now. I'm surprised how many of you ask me to continue to write....and encourage me to "keep going" admittedly they are not like KIller Strands but there are other sources, for the longest time, I was it. You don't abandon me and I won't abandon YOU !!! Be very very careful who you listen to, I saw 2 companies who write "supposed Blogs" that are tied to poor quality products, its kind of funny....really.  You will figure it out.....bad products word-of-mouth spreads quickly.

You have to learn to love Developer (peroxide) and not be afraid of it, and please please don't be so headstrong about which developer you ''ONLY'' want to use.  There just needs to be more education before you decide that you want this certain Volume, yet can't explain why. If you can explain 'why' and it follows the rules of hair coloring.....then fine use it. But please, many of you are very set on the Volume of Developer you want without any education.....or the knowledge of why that is your choice -  it needs to be really thought about for a better result. Remember.....I am on YOUR SIDE here !  So many of you are just Hell bent on not using anything higher than 20 Volume ( I have at least 8 of you with this same issue right now, so please don't think its "YOU".....what it is....is so funny that I have so many of you at the same time with the same misguided direction about Developer. All of you want to be a beautiful Blond, BUT won't use anything higher than 20 Volume.....a couple of you splurged and tried 30 Volume which......... still......... DID  NOT   WORK!

                                   Hydrogen peroxide (developer) H2O2 is 
                    responsible for oxidation (NH3 or ammonia + H2O2 = oxidation)

It makes the color permanent and MUST be present for the color to lift and develop, and it makes the color oxidize. First, it reduces (or lifts) the natural pigments (melanin) to reach the desired Target Level.  H2O2 is actually (water) with an extra molecule of O - oxygen .... something I would tell my clients all the time, to calm them when talking about developers. If its only 1 molecule away from water, really............could it be that bad? Oxygen is what creates the lift and development of color in the hair. Oxygen ! Nothing bad like so many of you think ;) .

             The higher the percentage of oxygen in peroxide 
                      the more lift you can achieve... "o-x-y-g-e-n" !

Most Level System colors operate with a range of developers from 5-40 Volume- although lately you can pretty much purchase any # Volume of developer. 
  • 5 to 13 Volume is for DEPOSIT ONLY
  • 20 Volume for the same level or one Level of Lift
  • 30 Volume for 2-3 Level s of Lift &
  • 40 Volume for 3-4 Levels of Lift  !
Although Volumes vary among the different product lines, you will notice some of the smarter lines adding moisturizers/conditioners/vitamins....etc. to their formulations of Developer to help condition the hair the one and only time the hair strand is open and able to be helped from the inside ....OUT!

As oxidation occurs, lift begins, which is the removal of the natural pigment (melanin) in the hair. Deposit also begins (at the same time ---> impressive don't you think)....Deposit is a process in which the intermediary color molecules begin joining or locking together to form a NEW color pigment combinations in the hair. With the aid of the H2O2 these molecules attract one another and make such large combinations that they become too large to exit the hair strand/shaft and are actually  are trapped inside. The lift and the deposit occur simultaneously!

Even Stylists think it is the H2O2 that causes the cuticle to open. The H2O2 acts as a buffer for the ammonia in color.  Its pH is actually 2.5 to 4.5. Only when its released through oxidation....does it begin to eliminate pigment.

The Volume of the Developer, along with the amount of ammonia in the color is what determines the lifting action. When a Color product is mixed with Developer, the H2O2 achieves a Working Volume (WV). WV is the actual volume of the diluted formula. Most Color Lines use equal parts to formulate.

                                              For example:
                                                2- oz. Color
                                             + 2- oz H2O2

So if using 20 Volume H2O2, this formula would have a working volume of 10Volume. As the Volume of the developer increases, so does the WV. 

I have tried over and over to make this one sentence crystal Clear, but I have failed. Please remember this, because nothing is more true about Developer than this statement:

The Volume of a Developer does not determine how strong it is, but merely how long it will lift. Stabilized H2O2 is CONTROLLED lifting power: the higher the Volume , the more the 'lift'. (what does "lift' mean? removing, subtracting or lightening color from the hair.

Peroxide + ammonia = Lift & Development of Color

During coloring the H2O2 is converted to water and oxygen
  • water drives the pigment into the hair
  • oxygen develops pigments 
become friends with the developer needed to achieve the color you desire, especially you Blondes !

The Level System of Hair Color Does NOT Work (but Rarely)

The Level System just truly is useless anymore.The Only hair it works on is hair with NO COLOR on it, which means you have to be about 12 years old for that to happen. There are just so many exceptions that I am pushing for that system to be demolished. 
I mean we can use the Levels to talk about what,
Level of hair color you have .....if Virgin
What Level of color you have.....if Colored , etc. But that is it! 
The Level System just does not work if you have previous hair color on your hair and I think that is what confuses new and sometimes 'older' hair stylists. I have had plenty of hair stylists contact me with questions about the LEVEL SYSTEM NOT WORKING and it is because they have tried to apply it to hair 'WITH" hair color on it.

The Level system
..... has "exceptions...like there are a few categories of Virgin Hair Color that the Standard Virgin Hair Color System just does not work for and I don't know why I have not brought this up before and this is why Boxed Color or E Color or any automated color just DOES NOT WORK ! But to be honest the Level System does not work anymore because it was designed to work on people with NO hair color on their hair.  The system just does NOT WORK if you have present hair color on, period !

Probably the same reason we (as Colorists) just go on our merry way coloring hair and not considering the fact that there are just so many people it just doesn't work for. I had to have one of my long-time wonderful customers ring the bell in my head as to the fact that I have NOT written about it....as he is Asian....and has Level 1 (BLACK) hair color { which btw is the #1 hair color in the world}. He wondered why the Schwartzkopf APP that I had asked everyone to download and play with gave the wrong answer. . . .  and BOOM...... that was my wake-up call.

This is why all these systems like EColor and Boxed Hair Color,  and Sally's color and on and on - - just do not work....it is because there are exceptions to all of those standard rules and that is where Colorists come in to do the 'tweaking' of the System.
They came up with a Systematic System for Levels 4 thru 9 hair which is where a large majority of people's hair fit that don't have Black.

 But the Level System does NOT work for virgin: 
(virgin hair is the hair color you were born with) :
  •  Redheads 
  • 100% Gray
  • Level 1-3 - so that includes all Asians and Latins which is the largest hair color category in the world & lastly. . . 
  •  Level 9-10 (virgin)

So that is an awful lot of people.....and truly not fair. But I promise you.....they are working on hair color and how it works frantically.// Hair Color is a multi-Billion dollar business and its going no where but UP UP & UP . . . if you are ever looking for somewhere to invest your money...hair products and hair color will go no where but up ! So I am afraid those of you in those EXCEPTIONS. . . .  of categories of hair color will have to join our group. . . which for $49.00/ monthly will get you help or "tweaking" from myself, to getting you the color of your dreams ! I don't know what else to say, to help the thousands of people out there with every different color of hair possible....what - to - do.......


I don't mean we should throw the entire chart of Levels out the window....BUT everyone needs to understand that there no longer is a simple easy to use system. As long as you have colored your hair at least once and the color is still on your hair.....you canNOT just color your hair 1 color and it will work..........because it WON'T! and I am very very sorry it no longer is easy.

Extensions - Headach-extensions

My feelings on extensions... and why the bad news.

A lot of people like extensions, I even found out one of the staffers here where them, and she was afraid to tell me. The only reason I have the views I do. . . is because I feel the big giant companies and all their big money spent on advertising is leading the general public down the wrong road for the health of their hair. 

I mean I am beginning to see extension ads in everyday magazines and she told me she got hers at sally's...Sally's really? Oh dear Lord. The problem with extensions can be defined in 1-2 sentences...
There is really no safe way to put them in a head of hair. The people that want them, almost always have thin hair. Therefore, thin hair = weak hair. Look at what you are trying to do to already weak and fragile hair, you are adding what is like a big giant dumbbell to your present weak strands

How are extensions "ATTACHED" let us count the ways:
  • glue
  • adhesive
  • tape 
  • Cold Fusion Basically identical to Warm Fusion but the  keratin bond is not warmed, but rather ultrasonic waves melt the Keratin to form the bond during installation
  • Warm Fusion, bonds are removed with a special solvent, and tool.
  • Beads, 
  • clips
  • and the list goes on endlessly.............and you know why? 
 Because they have not found a way, nor will they ever find a way that will be safe for the hair on your head,1/2 the actresses in Hollywood have lost half their hair because they got in on the whole extension wave about 15 years ago when they were a hidden wonder to most people.They were tens of thousands of dollars back then !  Now they have millions of women in India, the middle East, Africa everywhere there are groups of humans with strong hair, making a good living on selling their hair. Most all of the hair that you will wear now comes from the country of India.

  Look at all that hair where the hair Bulb will be destroyed & hair won't grow again !

But I want you to think about what is happening. ....no matter how you try to attach the hair to your current strands it is pulling on your roots. What happens is........ they pull on the lengths .........which pulls on the roots  which pulls out the bulb .....and a hair bulb is where new hairs grow ..........which is how you continue to HAVE hair continuously growing. 

Remember hair is terminal it sprouts out of the root.....begins to grow stays on your head anywhere from 2 to 6 years. It then dies and sheds. That one Bulb stays dormant for 2-4 weeks as it gets ready to grow again.....Now this is where Extensions get in the way of your entire head of hair....the bulb gets damaged by the fake hair pulling on those bulbs - while alive - then when they go to sprout again they can't because the damaged bulb is just that --> TOO DAMAGED....... for that one hair to grow again. The major problem is that is happening on ALL OF THE HAIR

The reason they keep changing the methods of attaching the extensions is because the current method 'gets a bad name' so they come up with another one. Trying to trick you....

Why would ANY manner of attaching the extensions to your hair be OK, when... the problem is the WEIGHT OF THE HAIR pulling on your real strands and the hair bulb, it has NOTHING to do w/ the manner of attaching the extensions !

Don't fall for it.  If you really understand how hair grows on your head, it will make sense as to why no method will ever NOT PULL on your REAL hair strands and the LAST THING YOU WANT IS FOR YOUR REAL HAIR STRANDS -- NOT TO GROW !

Semi-Permanent Hair Color Has A New Name & I Am Not Happy About It

Semi Permanent Hair Color is the color that was called Glosses and Cellophane's in the
 70's - 80's & part of the 90's then that same color that was used for many different color correction processes, slowly began to disappear. It almost completely disappeared except for a couple of us LOAD-MOUTH Colorists, that won't let it disappear....keep shouting and pouting about the fact that we need it BADLY There are just some Colorists including me who realize how very important the category is !

Slowly the public is going to begin to use semi-permanents and see how to use them to play with and see how they can be used............
 like using different colors of eyeshadow................................to go with an outfit
...................................................or a season.
 They go in and come out without any damage  to the hair because of the way they are put into the hair strands, the color rests on the outside of the hair strands. Remember to always keep your eye out for HEALTHY ways to have fun with your hair.. . . . . there are ways,  you just have to hunt for what is right FOR YOU ! ! ! ! 
if you use pastels....our pastels are made in INTENSIVE as a base (beginning today), which is a pH Balancer.
Others may be to, do your label reading just like you do for your food. . 

For Example............ its Summer now and how wonderful it is to begin the season with a yummy Apricot Rose color . . .  one of my favorites 

 What define's a Semi-permanent Color from a Demi? Absolutely NO developer is used, you pour the color out of the bottle into the bowl and grab your tint brush and a wide tooth comb and apply in the exact same method........no 3 Volume no 5 Volume.....no ANY Volume...........and the name they have coined for this category of Colors, now is "Direct Dyes".  

Just today when I saw some new SEMI-Permanent colors.
 I was talking to the warehouse's manager and was corrected when I asked about semi-permanent Hair Color . . . ."Oh, you mean 'DIRECT DYES' as I commented on L'Oreal's new Color Chalks ." 

I wanted to slap her silly face......"Direct Dye".........who thought that lame name up ??? The public is not going to like that and as a Colorist it scares me that what I am hoping will add shine.............spark an unusual color........... and will shampoo out in a short amount of time.....isn't going to do any of those things by the sounds of that name. As usual I have suggestions for the hair color companies, The nice thing is ....if I have patience, in about a year all my dreams.... will COME TRUE.


Lets continue to call them Semi-Permanent & see if we can squash the bad name before it permanently invades!
Semi-Permanents are
wonderful for adding shine, smoothing the cuticle ( so hair looks shiny) giving the hair a gloss that lasts from 10 - 24 days depending on how much you shampoo............. BE SURE to use a Sulfate-Free Shampoo. 
Gives shine, gloss and covers gray for a short time . . . about 2-3 weeks depending on the brand and your porosity and amount of gray and what you are trying to accomplish.

killer chemist 

You know something I forgot to add there are semi's in plain colors, such as brown, light brown, dark blond, light blond, beige blond..........so don't think you have to follow the photos above to get the benefits of a wonderful group of hair color that is not very well known. I bet I could find a good use for every single one of you....Leave your Level and Tone in the comments section and ask me if there is a Semi for you somewhere iun the ever expanding world of hair color ...the category: Semi-permanent colors ;)