Understanding pH Teaches You How to Care for Hair Correctly: Here's How !

Fight the Fade 

 

 

 

Prolong Hair Color with the Power of pH



 pH value is between 0 and 14, 
a pH value of 7.0 is considered neutral
all values below neutral are acidic 
and 
all values above are alkaline. 
An 
acidic solution has a positive electrical charge (+)
and an 
alkaline solution has a negative electrical charge (-)

Healthy Hair Vs. Damaged Hair
  • Normal, healthy hair has a pH value of between 4.5 and 5.5 and is considered acidic. 
  • Hair in this state will be positively charged (+) and has a compact cuticle structure. 
  • The outside cuticle layer is closed and smooth, promoting a natural, healthy shine.
  • The internal cortex is protected, and moisture levels are maintained, ensuring good strength and elasticity. 
  • Healthy hair has even, normal porosity and provides a good base for chemical services.

Damaged hair has pH value above 7.0 

is negatively charged (-). 
The cuticle layer is raised with a dull/matt surface. 
The raised cuticle layer can catch, resulting in tangled hair with a high susceptibility to mechanical damage – caused by combing or other external influences. In addition, the cortex will be exposed to further damage, in danger of losing essential moisture and becoming dry or brittle. 

Damaged hair will be very porous and provides a poor surface for chemical treatments, with potentially uneven results.
 


pH and Products
As the majority of hair products are a solution, and therefore have a pH value, it follows that this can influence the condition of hair.

Chemical treatments, such as a lightener, perm or color, are deliberately alkaline, or have a pH value higher than the hair’s natural value. This causes the cuticle layer to open up, allowing the product to enter the inner hair structure. It is therefore essential to thoroughly rinse the hair following a chemical process and apply a good re-structuring pH balancing Conditioner like INTENSIVE







 Care products of various brands are predominantly acidic, and have an astringent effect on the hair, closing the cuticle layer. Shampoos will typically have a pH value close to the hair’s natural level, promoting gentle cleansing. Conditioners and treatments however, have a higher acid value, helping to return damaged, hair back to a normal, healthy condition.
Hair Color & pH 
When hair is colored, the pH increases from an optimum value of 4.5 – making it more alkaline and during color development, the outer and inner hair structure is loosened up in order for color pigments to penetrate the hair. For this reason a conditioner or treatment after a color service helps to reset the hair to the optimum pH value of 4.5.

What is the pH of the Hair and Scalp?

Maintaining the correct pH value of the hair & scalp is essential for the overall health of hair. Hair products can control the pH of hair.

What is Neutral pH?
A pH of 7 is chemically neutral. Hair care products with a pH value in between 3.5 and 5.5 are considered as being beneficial for hair care products.



Variations in pH
When pH value drops below 6.0 the cuticle layer contracts and tightens. A mild acidic conditioner (lower than pH 7) can help to add shine to the hair, as a smooth surface is able to reflect more light; strong acids will however damage the hair. Acid conditioners should not be used when red/orange tones have been added to the hair, instead use a color-specific care range.

When pH value becomes more alkaline (above 7.0) the cuticle layer softens and expands like a pinecone. This is necessary as part of the coloring process in order to deposit pigments within the hair structure, however if the pH becomes too alkali, damage will occur.


 Also many 'form' products make use of the effect of alkali pH values on hair.

Hair with a very alkaline, porous structure will not retain color effectively. In this instance the cuticle will fail to hold the new pigments, which will ultimately rinse out prematurely.

Following your own little hair diagnosis you now have the education I provide you.... to care for your hair yourself. I am hoping with my instruction and many Posts on the importance of pH you will begin to take it seriously and realize how important it is in the end result and look + health of your hair. 


YOU CAN NOW PREVENT DAMAGE & KEEP HAIR LOOKING AMAZING by keeping it pH balanced.



Understanding Hair and Scalp Types

In this post we explore how to understand and care for, the typical range of hair and scalp types.

The sebaceous gland plays an important role in determining hair and scalp type. The production of sebum is a natural process that adds strength and lustre to hair strands. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress and drugs and the aging process can all influence production. Salon products are designed specifically to compliment individual needs and work toward producing strong, healthy, naturally beautiful hair. Hair and Scalp types fall into the following broad categories:

Oily

Over-active sebaceous glands produce an excess quantity of sebum, which can make hair limp and lank. This may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, which can result in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair, hence is more susceptible to excess oil.

High quality shampoos cleanse without stripping the hair of essential moisture and nutrients
.

Dry
Dry hair looks dull and lifeless and is also more susceptible to breakage. Dry hair can only be stretched 15% of its overall length before breaking, while healthy hair can be stretched up to twice this amount, more when wet! A common cause of dry hair is dehydration; water retention can measure between 4 and 13% of overall hair volume.

A change in lifestyle can make all the difference, and there are many products available to help nourish the cortex and smooth cuticles. If you purchase our 400-WATT Kit you go from   lifeless - dull hair to most-likely the best your hair has ever looked.
Me trying to sell you on it, is not nearly as helpful to you as one of our new customer s words which I want to show you now an example of the many emails I receive each and every week for over 8 years now...........

DEAR KILLERSTRANDS,
wow, what can I say the 400 Watt package I purchased is amazin, as I am sure you already know but I wanted to send you photos of what just one treatment of all 3  products did for my hair.  I have the before and the after here for you to see.  Now I will tell you that I am 50 years of age and I do color and get highlights in my hair and I thought my hair was in fairly good shape but wow, again its all I can say, love love love these products. 
I have included 3 photos
1.  Before killer strands products, I wanted to have a before and after to see how they would work.  you can see I have a bit of your Breaking Bad Blue on the bottom portion of my hair and there are subtle highlights throughout my hair.
2.  This is a photo after the full process
3.  Another photo slightly closer angle so you can see my hair better. As I said blond highlights throughout but your BBB is on the lower portion of my hair I get so many complements on this. 

With Intensive I noticed right away I could run a comb through my hair after my shower which I have not been able to do without product for as long as I can remember.  Then I left the Thriven in for about 3 hours and that made my hair even softer then I let it dry and when it was almost dry I added a few drops of gleam and it just finished it off beautifully.  My hair was somewhat dry before but now it is soft and gorgeous.  I cant wait to see how much more it will improve as I use these regularly.  I will never stop taking good care of my hair now that I have found the right products, and believe me I have tried many over the years.  No contest, you have Killer products.  My heart felt thanks to you for this. 

I want to do more highlights throughout my hair so that the colors I buy from you Burst come through more effectively.  I have now purchased the Sex in the Driveway and the Violet Pilot.  I have to tell you that now I want to buy
Icey Silver
Adios Mutha Fucka
and Frosty Magenta

Ok as I said I wanted to show you how ab fab your product worked out on my hair thank you so much.
xoxoxox,
Titania
07/28/2015
 









 Normal Hair

Normal hair is shiny, supple and good looking and is the result of a well-balanced, healthy lifestyle, combined with good hair care using the right products.

Mixed Condition
Over-active sebaceous glands and poor scalp condition may create a glut of sebum; this can be absorbed back into the scalp, preventing essential oils from traveling the length of the hair strand. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of Pityriasis steatoides. Mixed condition hair types have dry, frizzy ends that are prone to breaking, with oily roots. In this scenario application techniques are very important when applying products to ensure the problem area is targeted.

Our Gleam and the Kaaral Sclap scrub will pretty much take care of any scalp conditions one may find......So with the 4 products you can solve all problems and have the healthiest/shiniest and most beautiful hair of your life. 

That's pretty simple in most people's book....AND.........

AND..............................you CAN DO IT AT HOME ! ! ! !  

KC


 





Hair ECLIPSE -- Light Hair to Dark in 1-Easy Step? . . Possible? !. . Probable. .or Impossible?

 What Do YOU Think?
You've spent all this money on time going light Blonde....
When you finally get Blonde, your Colorist just cannot seem to get the brass out and you are sick and tired of fighting it.
Back to Brunette Again?
But. . . You've heard about this odd technique called "filling-the-hair" - which has something to do with . . . .coloring the hair once. . . . then coloring it again and you hear that is the way to go from Blonde BACK to brown... Why would anyone want to color their hair twice?
Seems Dumb
Seems like a waste-of-time.
I really think the whole idea is lame.
Lets see what this dinghy lady thinks. . . . she seems to have a lot to say about hair color. . .


                                                                                                                                                                                  Every once in while when I receive a question that seems to come up a lot, then I will use it to create a Post...I figure if I receive a lot of personal emails about this subject there must be thousands who have the same question and would love the answer.. . . . So here you go.... 

Here is her exact question:

I'm Virgin Level 5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

 










I Lifted my hair to Level 8. . . . . . . . . . . . . 




which pulled golden blonde no toner,
using bleach lightener.
I decided I need contrast.....
as, its all one color and washes me out
I want to get to a level 6NW brown 
with level 8N light brown highlight. 



Do you know of any color lines I can try that will deposit the base tone without having to fill my hair first since it no longer has pigment? I greatly appreciate your time & advise and for the highlights, would Shades Eq 8N work? 
That one has blue/violet tone.

My Response: 
Of course no one wants to go through coloring their hair twice, as a Colorist I never enjoyed having to "fill hair"...  The time it takes, cost...etc...I completely understand where you are coming from
BUT......you have about a 20% chance of trying to go darker (when blonde) and the color you apply: "sticking" without filling the hair first. If you don't mind those odds then give it a shot.

 It is my recommendation to fill the hair and that is not because I am trying to sell things and have nothing better to do I promise you that.  
If you look at the mission of this (8 year old)  Blog, it is : To empower those of you who cannot achieve "properly colored" "healthy + shiny hair" at home or in a Salon - no matter where you live, by giving you the gift of education & effective products.
 Here you have: all my tricks of the trade. 
 I've tried it both ways - more than once, because you have a client in your chair who wants to go darker but can't afford the 2 application process it takes. So I have done it on them even with giving them my strongest warning. I wanted to be able to conquer this anomaly myself by trying different lines. . ., .different formulas, putting the colors you fill with........ in with the end formula.....I've tried  every option there is, I promise you. I am only recommending filling because I find making mistakes or using Short-cuts... ALWAYS - ALWAYS ends up costing more in the long run.

We do it because it is necessary for your hair to look beautiful after you begin shampooing...
Cutting corners in the manner you suggest, otherwise you have a very high percentage of ending up having your hair  looking 'green/gray" after a week or 2.
When going lighter, the warmth of your hair strands are  taken away....deleted....that "warmth" is no longer there. So if you apply darker color without returning that warmth replaced.... you have a very high chance of it looking "greenish" after you begin shampooing - because it's missing 1/2 its pigment.. 


Not immediately - it happens after a few shampoos. If you don't mind that, then give the one color application a try.

When everyone tries to skip steps that as professional Colorist..."WE KNOW" are necessary in order for the result to be something "YOU" as our client will love and be thrilled to walk around with...the result is just not something to be proud of....in my opinion.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

For the best Toners out of every line on planet earth ... you simply cannot beat Wella's Color Touch line. Its a demi-permanent line that hands down... beats everyone by ''shine level''....''color selection'', gentleness, and one the best parts:
the scent is actually a lovely soft fresh scent when mixed...I can't say enough good things about it...there is every color on earth including exactly what you want.



There really is no "W' in 90% of hair color categories, so am not sure what that is referring to. Do you mean Beige/Brown.....Ash........Neutral.......Red..........Matte .....or   Gold
 or any combination of those - are the only Tones categories there really are.

I would use Color Touch to fill, then color with either Koleston Perfect IGORA ROYAL or Illumina. 



So Bottom line, spend the little bit of extra money, follow the proper  "Filling Formula's and Technique's"  . . . my sincere and honest recommendation?  Don't cut corners on tried and trued Hair Coloring Techniques - especially one's that are in text books. There IS a reason for them !











 Apply Planet Pink in BURST to WET hairs' roots... let it sit, 10-12 minutes... rinse.......go from there. It will look just like this.....Use any of the colors for the same effect in any of the 19 colors!





















 Titanium or Breaking Bad Blue will give you this result








Check- Out 'April' (below) Who is our Group Manager she went from Level 5 Dark Brown ..............to Platinum and now is playing with all the various BOOST & BURST Tones, 

damn I wish I was 20 !....  

Coral Sunrise
.....on her platinum hair ...pretty much knocked me off my chair how Gorge it looks...

check this out !!

 


 
Add caption

















Overlapping When Blonding is the Most Important Subject to Prevent


Bleach Retouches............ Kill Hair If Not Properly Applied
Skipped right over this subject when I had quite a few of you, who  want the goods on it.... so here we go
I am famous in the malibu world for my:
Top 10 Habits that Destroy & Damage Your Hair
Its not a 'good' famous. . . . its a 'get under your skin' famous
Why? Its silly really
the List is:
frank,
controversial,
to the point,
and most people do not want to admit that 'it' or 'I' am right
about what it says
It's one of those lists that puts a rain cloud over the sunny party, a sad face replaces a happy one...and I think the one that rattles the most cages is the very first habit, so right out of the gate I have most of the human race,pissed off & angry at me.
Its quite funny the emails - notices- and other correspondence I receive randomly when it hits a chord with someone
The 10 habits are in no particular order, they are all equally as bad for your hair...when you have a full clientele coming to you because of your advice, knowledge, & talent- I take the advice I dole out very seriously. Very . I have worked very hard to conquer the hair thinning and hair loss problem I have watched grow to ridiculous levels in the past 10 years. If something is not done soon "balding women" is going to be a very common term not a rare one.
The first damaging Habit? "Smoking Weed"
That is why it gets under everyone's skin
Everyone knows someone that smokes weed, in today's society...Weed is this generations "beer" or "cocktail"...... or relaxation after a hard days work..... and lets all face it-- it is a helluva lot less harmful to the world than its sister > "Alcohol" as I'm sure you would all agree. So putting it front and center on my list, was only done to get people to "pay attention" to the list. That's it. It is not the worst of the 10 habits, it just gets the most attention, which is what I wanted. The more people that pay attention to the list the more we will begin chipping away at the problem of female hair thinning/loss - one of my missions in life. I had no idea it would instigate so much flak from men -- by the way, I've only had men approach me on it (the List is really for women! - men have years of research on their hair loss issues - they have a pill (that works), a Laser comb, surgeries, Lotions, all OK by the FDA -- Women have ZIPPO/ nada / nothing! So I was trying to get the ball rolling for the female gender - that's all, no favorites promise! The issue of hair loss for womenand men are com
pletely different ball games - with different causes & cures from each other...and need to be approached completely different.
On this list in spot number 8 ..is "OVERLAPPING" with lightener.
Which is finally getting around to what this Post is about. Trying to teach you what overlapping is and how to prevent it. This one word is responsible for a lot of breakage on today's girls & its so very simple to prevent... but not if the Stylist was never taught it, nor understood it.
I was hoping if I taught it here, maybe just maybe I could prevent some of the mistakes that leave Salons every day...."from the Internet!! of all places. Your Stylist might not take to kindly to you telling her how to do it....but its your hair, and that should be the Number 1 most important fact. If you see her doing this, I would think very hard about NOT returning to that Stylist....This is very preventable as you will see.
Very.
This usually happens during a retouch on foils.
The technique's referred to a a "weave" "highlight" or "foil" are popular in today's Salons...although the manner in which they are used has evolved and I am hoping that many of the Salons will start tuning in to some of the more current web sites and consider updating their techniques.


What I'd like you to do is know that the problem comes when a lazy or uneducated stylist applies lightener to the entire piece of hair you see sectioned off..... instead of stopping where the line of demarcation is....


> That is where "overlapping" ZAPS your hair...


instead of applying the lightener to just the "new growth" they slap it on that entire piece (over-lapping it on TOP of the already lightened piece)
See the Diagram here . . . . .
The proper method of touch-up is to apply just to the "dotted lines" not the solid lines....
But that is where the common mistake is made . . ..
Instead of just applying to the dotted lines, they slap the bleach on the entire piece of hair.......overlapping it on TOP of already bleached hair.
This is what happens with "highlights" and highlight re-touches...


What each of you should do is wait 4- 6 weeks before doing your roots. There is simply no way any of you will have the expertise to apply bleach to 1/4 inch of hair without making the mistake of overlapping - - -THEREFORE, you must all wait till about 5-6 weeks when you have a solid 1/2" of dark roots and are not in danger of overlapping.

That is not hard - nor does it look bad, Madonna has dark roots all the time. This is a very expensive process, that you have taken on yourself...the only part of that process that you must be super careful of, is NOT overlapping the bleach.
It can be very easily done , IF........"IF" you wait 4-6 weeks - before re-applying the bleach which should be LEvitation Bleach and 20 Volume unless you are a level 5 and below.


I would Never apply bleach twice to roots.

if you have this issue I want to email me, so I can clarify it to you. Killerstrands@gmail.com


Please see the Diagram as well.....


a

Wella Color Touch - DEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

Wella Color Touch - DEMI-PERMANENT  HAIR  COLOR
Increase Shine - Uses 6 & 13 Volume Developer

a

Many Kind Acknowledgements Lately

Dear KC,

Such a nice thing for you to offer...

I have been with you for years, now and
can't thank you enough for all you do for us!!! My thoughts are with you often hoping your health is
improving.

Your site is life changing...

Love you.
Kim
May 30, 2015

BOOST + BURST

 
SITE DESIGN BY DESIGNER BLOGS