April 25, 2016

Balayage (hair painting) : The Theory That Doesn’t Fly (for me) & Why

The More You Know the Less You FEAR

 balayage  Had 1 more sad story emailed to me about Balayage this week,  this is a topic I have been tap dancing around for the entire time the KS Blog has been in existence. I have been promising forever to address my opinion about the technique. So, while it is not at all what I was planning on writing today, sometimes adapting to my readers, is the smartest decision.

About 18-19 years ago {yep, that’s how old this technique is} I first got wind of BALAYAGE. I can still remember hearing about it, and thought, uh geez……one more “cowboy color” move, I never talked or thought about it again. Once a year – every year, some new “technique’ within the hair color world gets introduced and then proceeds to (almost) always fail. I'm not saying no new hair coloring techniques won't be successful.....but you have to remember that unless a new chemical has been introduced, millions have people have been working on this issue for over 100 years......many brilliant artists and cosmetic chemists have been working and playing on new techniques and art forms....

 This dinghy Balayage is like gum on my shoe ( I hope some of you have learned about my kooky sense of humor -- as well ! ! !This damn Balayage technique is like gum on my shoe and it just won't go AWAY ! ! !  Everything about it makes absolutely no sense, although for interest in the comment section shows that many of you sure are intrigued by it.... can some of you poor souls that fell for it, tell me what intrigued you about it in the first place??? I would love to know what intrigued into this ding-dong procedure….???

Having wondered ‘where’ these quirky little processes  come from, makes me question - - the reason behind them. Within a Colorists world there is always a “new” technique around the corner. That new technique is almost always just a new name for something we already do, which means it is merely the result of the hair world’s > “Marketing-machine”.  In other words . . . the theory is, if a new technique is announced it will get more people into Salons. Yep, that’s how the world of Color rolls! Why do you think they show pure white snowy blonds ( see my previous post) one month and raven dark haired vixens the next. As long as “change” is happening in hair color, then its a good thing for the “business” of hair color and the world of hair. If everyone were to remain a level 8 B ….year after year after year, what a boring ho-hum world it would be, and how hum drum it would be for business. Just like everything else in today’s world, Hair Color is first and foremost  - -  a business - -  and it needs rejuvenation and spark to stay interesting and 200296483-001provocative, just like any other.
I was trained at …. Vidal Sassoon. A school that has strict rules and regulations for extremely valid reasons. I admire their ways & means of teaching and continue to follow them all to this day. This entire BLOG is littered with both: KC-isms & Sassoon-isms… so if you want to learn the same, I would read and absorb……..read and absorb.
Now, when any Colorist is preparing to color a hair models hair, the first step always is the “consultation”. To me there is no more important step. The reason so many Stylists/Colorists make mistakes, is because they don’t take the time necessary to properly analyze this step and look at their clients hair back story. It is crucial to a successful outcome, to fully
  • analyze the hair’s characteristics,
  • learn the previous color processes performed
  • understand the “desired” look
Now, one of the biggest and most common mistakes one will see on blonds, is when the hair turns yellow/brass/orange/gold . I’ve tried many ways of explaining why that happens, we will try another one today. There is a misconception that ‘brass’ is a color and it can be removed, when nothing could be further from the truth. Its a bit of an ‘odd’ concept how the color Brass, or blorange, or Gold shows its ugly head in hair. But let me try  to explain how, where and why it comes from. I can’t tell you the amount of readers that have asked me if they could use the artificial hair color remover “VANISH” to remove the BRASS from their hair.’ Another KC-ism in Hair Color is
“ ALWAYS USE THE PROPER TOOL FOR THE JOB “
balayage.blonde.painting.2Using Vanish is the complete wrong tool, and it seems to be my issue in not teaching this concept properly….as to why some of you don’t understand why.I would like to try to get this clarified in this post, if you don’t understand, PLEASE ask in the COMMENTS section below, so I can see what I am missing.

When you apply color to the hair you are adding color . Color + Color (=) makes more Color, so the hair has more pigment. If the color used is addition only, the hair will often (but not always) be darker.
All virgin hair is shade of brown; it contains all 3 primaries. When hair is dark brown…it is the ‘bluest’ brown -  level 1-4. The most warm browns ( auburn ) are Levels 5-7. Then the lightest or most yellow browns are level 8-10 . . . the color is an uneven combination of the 3 primary colors, still.
Black is super dark Brown…. and blond’s are super light brown.
Brown is made from mixing different amounts of Red, Yellow, & Blue ( the primary colors). So if there is more yellow than red or blue, the brown will be light, even beige. If there is more red than the other 2 primaries, the brown will be warm, and if there is more blue than the other 2 the brown will be dark and cooler looking.
Complementary colors turn a shade of brown when mixed together, for ex: yellow mixed w/ violet achieves a pale brown; because yellow; the stronger color, will dominate the formula. Violet is made from red and blue(primary). When you mix yellow with violet, you achieve a shade of brown. Mixing opposites on the color wheel always results in a “browning out” effect.
Understanding all this about COLOR THEORY, truly is the basis for being a great Colorist. While I know 98% of you merely want to be able to color your own hair correctly. Unfortunately, understanding “COLOR THEORY” is a necessary part of  the puzzle. So, all these little rules and laws will help as you turn your hair from brown to blond and back again. Look at education (any education) as one more means of expanding your knowledge base. killercutscolors565
When finally comprehending color theory, it can benefit much more than hair color, it can add to the Interior or Exterior Design of your Home, the Clothing you put together and wear, it can even benefit the Frosting or Decorations you make on a cake. Color Theory affects many different aspects of ones life, and once it sinks in,you will find yourself having “aha” moments that deal with color theory revelations randomly.I receive emails from new Crib Colorists all the time with various stories of how color theory has popped  into their everyday life. Remember ANY education, is good for you.
When I would teach this color theory concept to new COSMO students….they would ALWAYS look at me as though I was wasting their time, so I went back to basics and required all students purchase a set of PLAY DOH. At least with something as fun and as nostalgic as PlayDoh, I could get past their anger & puzzlement and tap into their thirst for knowledge. Having them mix a small portion of yellow and red PlayDoh together – would show them the result was ORANGE….then add an equal portion of blue ( primary) ………what do you get?????………….BROWN. Then mix all different combinations to show them, all primaries when mixed equal brown.. its pretty cool to watch a entire room of COSMO Students have an “AHA” moment. And that “AHA” moment is about how the primary colors of red-yellow & blue, when mixed in uneven amounts equal BROWN! With BROWN being the color of all hair, it is a pretty significant realization. Most of them don’t realize that, but eventually they will.
FIRST, some color theory. . . . .
to have a balanced natural hair color:
all 3 primaries must be present
An imbalance (lack of any of 3 primaries) of primaries leads to an imbalance of end result
Therefore if you are blond, with brassy tones, the method one would use to “COUNTER” the brassy tones is what?
If the hair color is brassy, that means the primary that is the strongest is the YELLOW.
{Primary colors are Red, Blue & Yellow}
So, if the YELLOW is predominant and is what is causing the hair to be an obnoxious brassy color
Use the rule, that if the color is objectionable, then play with the primary colors to solve the problem.Take the 2 other primary colors…..???? RED & BLUE, mix them together which makes PURPLE ( right?)
Add a PURPLE TONER to that brassy Blond and it will knock that brass right out of the hair .
Once you begin to lighten hair….warmth is released. The first pigment to be released during lightening is BLUE. If you start with the blackest most coarse hair and begin to lighten it with bleach, you immediately see a change.
Because BLUE is the first pigment to leave the hair, you would go very quickly into the RED Zone, which is also the most difficult zone to leave. However if you use a microscope to observe the same black hair being lightened, you would see a different dominance of pigment at each step
So, if you were to observe the amount of natural pigment remaining in the hair at each level under a microscope, you would see a dominance of blue pigment at LEVEL 1 – BLACK, Which makes sense because black is really the BLUEST BROWN.
  • Level 2: very very dark brown, a dominance of blue/violet, which is still very dark but not black,prevails.
  • Level 3 : violet dominates
  • Level 4: violet/Red
  • Level 5: Red
  • Level 6: Red/Orange
  • Level 7: Orange
**LEVEL 7, btw is the most difficult stage or level to get past  -  all the trouble with brassy colors in hair stems from this
  • Level 8 : DURP Gold
  • Level 9: Yellow
  • Level 10: Very Pale Yellow10 degrees99
Now, that is an overview of where “brass” comes from and why it is so very difficult to get rid of. It is the most dominant color, it is the hardest color to counter, and the most impossible color to eliminate. There is no avoiding it, it is the most predominant color in everyone’s hair, no matter ‘what’ color the Virgin hair is.
Now to explain ‘why the Ballyage technique makes no sense to a Colorist…..or to “this Colorist” anyway!
The color hardest to get out of the hair………Gold/Brass {Level 7 Brass/Gold is like Glue}
The way in which hair is lightened is by applying bleach to the hair. The bleach then “lifts” the  color OUT OF THE STRANDS….in an effort to lighten it into the desired blond shade of choice….. in other words its like  sucking the color out the strands of hair…..
(I want to put this in the most simplified terms possible)
Say the hair is BLACK………….and you DESIRE PLATINUM
The mixture of Bleach plus 40 VOLUME DEVELOPER  is applied to the black hair and the bleach begins to suck the color out of the hair…………..
The lightening train goes like this….color is drawn out of the hair strand in this method:
  • BLACK - ->>> GOES TO
  • DARKEST BROWN ----> > >TO
  • DARK  BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
  • BROWN  - - -> > >  GOES TO
  • LIGHT BROWN - - - -  GOES TO
  • RED - - - > > >  GOES TO
  • RED-ORANGE---->>> WHICH goes TO - - - >>>
  • ORANGE- - - > > >  WHICH THEN GOES TO
  • GOLD  - - -  - which goes to
  • YELLOW - - - -> > > >
  • PALE YELLOW BLOND
  • PALE BLOND the desired colored when millions of women go looking for a Sun-Kissed Blond Look).
Now what happens to so very many blonds that have BRASS instead of BLOND….is the lightener ( of whichever type or kind has been used)has not been left on long enough, OR a strong enough developer was not used. Resulting in the hair lightening up but getting stuck at the “GOLD” Level…..see it up there? If the lightener would have stayed on longer or a stronger volume developer would have been used it would have been able to climb those remaining 2 levels to PALE YELLOW BLOND .
Now when this dippy Balayage method, paints the Lightener on the hair –  FreeHand as you see in this photo:  001 Ballyage001
Why would you paint the lightener on the hair free hand? I have no idea what that accomplishes?
I wonder if they think it looks more natural??  It won’t.   ………I wonder if they think it’s faster ?? Most likely.. . . .
 Foils are difficult to learn - they had foiling BOOT camps at Sassoon because they not only wanted your foiling work to be 'pretty' looking - when the foils were on the head  ( which at first I thought was sooooooooo bizarre - who cares??? ..............then after I finally absorbed and understood the entire Sassoon world and education I finally GOT IT ! While the other people in the salon had screwy looking uneven and  horribly placed foils - yours would be perfect and orderly, it not only made your client feel special I cannot tell you how many clients switched to me to be their Colorist -- SIMPLY because of my foiling work. I OWE THAT ALL TO SASSOON ! ) Remember Foils keeping moisture in and on the strands. Moisture keeps the lightener active and working, the last thing you want is for it to dry out.........which is what will happen to it in the AIR .....during Balayage. Do you really think no one thought of this before?  That's the part that gets me. So 70 years ago when all of these techniques were first being formulated you don't think the first Colorists didn't think of painting the bleach on the hair FIRST????

OF COURSE THEY DID.

Because when you did that the client would repeatedly end up with brassy hair - then the hair needs to be "re-colored' and REPEATING lightening processes is called OVER-LAPPING and check in my rules about how to achieve the most damage in lightening hair. OVER-LAPPING is at the top of the list. 

They figured out a long time ago if foils were used that the majority of people would have properly colored blonde hair. They did NOT make up the process just because they wanted to add a useless step to lighteninig hair. 

THAT JUST IS NOT HOW TOP COLORISTS ROLL !
 and all of you who think they do, are wrong.

I know this is a very conterversial subject but I stick to my guns about how foiling is the proper method for achieving natural looking streaks or ribbons or ropes or pieces or whatever you want to call little pieces of hair that are lightened lighter than the rest of the hair.
FOILS are hard to learn. Ask anyone who is an A List Colorist and if properly placed they can achieve the exact same look with less time and more control.



 Here is another photo of Balayage, which I would foil and would achieve this exact same look.

images
As a Colorist what I want when I color hair is “control”. Control and Timing so I know exactly what is going to happen and WHEN. If you are to paint lightener on the hair you are going to lose the body’s warmth that comes from using foils. Once the lightener is applied to the strand of hair then the foil is folded over that strand …. both the body and the foil create HEAT a very mild warmth which is actually just perfect -- it gently helps the lightening action along. if you don’t use foil, you lose that, which means you have a much greater risk of ending up in the BRASS RANGE. The dreaded BRASS – range......... its why we use foils. 
 Lightening hair without the use of foils is archaic and unnecessary. If anything, apply the foils with the lightener, as hair stylists you must learn how to check hair that has lightener on it, and KNOW WHAT STAGE IT IS, I mean it doesn’t take long…in about 2 months of practice you could be good at foils and should know what hair looks like when you scrape off the lightener from a clients foils….to be able to tell whether or not you should rinse a client now or in 20 minutes. Yes, its an  art, but dammit, get GOOD at that art….its why you went into this biz, don’t be a slacker.

I cannot even figure out what the purpose of Balyage is, to be perfectly frank. With foils you can create just about any work of art you would like….. foils let Color 1 be on a certain portion of hair. . . . while allowing Colors 4-7 & 9 to NOT be other portions…. 

Using foils are the mark of a Great Colorist. Everything they claim Balayage can create we have been doing for years with foils. There is a certain strain of hairstylists that don’t use foils and the only reason I could possibly imagine for not using foils is laziness. Foils are used for the heat they retain – the art they allow to have and the mobility they impart when trying to display a rainbow of colors WITHOUT BRASS in the blond’s.
I will have at least a half dozen people every week ask me what they can do to get the brass out…..or the ‘orange’ out…I ask how the Stylist colore3d their hair and the answer is ALWAYS BALAYAGE!!!!!! So, if you believe nothing else, believe that, or your own experience.
The only way to lighten hair with “control” over how light it does or does not get is with Bleach. So many are hesitant of the use of bleach, . As an experienced Colorist, bleach can be your best friend … there are just soooo many uses for it, but never ever use it without plenty of experience behind you.
Balayage began in the country of France, which explains a lot (to me) . Balayage,  is a French term for hair painting. It is a freehand placement of highlights, without the use of foils, allows for a more natural color application that complements and contrasts in all the right places.THAT is what the textbooks say. I say, bring back the foils!

This is what Balyage looks like;

balayage.blonde.painting.2
Think before you request this technique, ask that Stylist if they also do foils. Remember foils give the colorist more control and  get the hair PAST that dreaded ‘brass’ stage.
Something.................anyone Loves !

March 28, 2016

2 Products w/ Same Ingredients. . .Why is One So Different Than Other?









        How can 2 products with the 

                       same ingredients be so different ? ?

              FORMULA  QUANTITY  VARIATION


2 Products can have the same ingredients BUT....they can have "different quantities of the same ingredient" (you never know how much of an individual ingredient is IN 1 product - that is not required  … it is the QUANTITY of those ingredients that can completely change the :  feel, design, reaction, hold OR shine, color, look or just about anything ...  ......... depending on which product you are making. 

Think about it ......... HAIR COLOR PRODUCT #50  is a hair color product both have the same exact ingredients EXCEPT the ingredients of just a long list of ingredients are different ONLY IN THE RED & WHITE GRAMS - Total.

BURST   Product #A : has 4 grams of red Tint  & 50 grams of White........
WHILE
BURST  Product #B:  has 50 grams of red Tint with 4 grams of White pigment 

Product A looks like this  :


Product B Looks Like this:

      

LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE !  

They both have the exact same ingredients and finally I can show you very simply what I mean E-X-A-C-T-L-Y with these 2 photos. This is a visual  demonstration of what I am referring to as an EXTERNAL "Formula" VARIATION that has the exact same ingredients only DIFFERENT amounts of those 'same' ingredients.   It cannot only be a VISUAL demonstration....it can also be an INTERNAL Variation differential treatment. MEANING : what it actually does to the internal & external structure of your hair is and can be completely different.

  EVERYTHING regarding the outcome of a product can be changed dramatically merely by the change of the amount of a certain ingredient that is added or subtracted.
 The Absolute #1 most important topic for THE RESULT of any Hair Color or Product AT ALL????  . . . . . . . .is. . . . .:
                                    THE FORMULA 

There are thousands of OILS out there on the shelves, but not one of them creates the results of our GLEAM . . . . . . . 
  
                          . . . . . . . . . why is that ? 

Killerstrands uses massive amounts of the most expensive Oils on Earth, 2 in particular !  Which makes GLEAM, completely cure hair damage + Create Shine & Solve Frizz in frizzy hair.  Personally I have battled my own frizzy / dry hair.....therefore for a lifetime I have battled this horrible trait personally which creates a completely different set of rules when formulating a hair product to help cure your OWN hairs'  problems.  There is NOTHING like being able to formulate hair products for your OWN HAIRS' faults and problems !! 

 I simply tried to solve this one problem........  It really does and I have not ONE hesitation saying that.

Just give yourself DAILY - HOT OIL (lots OF)TREATMENTS (using the Soft Bonnet Hair Dryer to take advantage of heat) which drives conditioners INTO hair strands....and then at night apply overnight Treatments of THRIVEN for the complete HAIR DAMAGE RESCUE TREATMENT of the Year ! ! ! ! 

If you want every single trick I have you would also need to Add INTENSIVE,
using it after Color Treatments to LOCK in Color and to be used as much as you can after your daily shampoos as a daily conditioner if needed. 

Remember....do NOT use a daily conditioner solely because you think you need one.

Add the SECRET SUPPLEMENT { Google it.... } daily if you struggle with health, growth or thickness of hair... OVER 80% of people who begin this habit of taking 1 SS/per day will give you an extraordinary amount of hair growth, it changes the hair thickness / hair density per day....give it 45--90 days if nothing changes in that

  It's the QUANTITY of ingredients not the fact that its on the label, they can put 1% of Rosehips Oil in a product & then are allowed to put the name "ROSEHIPS OIL" in the label. . . . . just the same as if we added over 50% of the TOTAL formula.  

So there are many MANY tricks to creating hair products, and until you really learn how to create a hair product from the ground up its very difficult to understand the whole world. I accidentally grabbed a chance to learn how to formulate hair products from a very famous MAX FACTOR Cosmetic Chemist....which was the true "KEY" to 
KILLERSTRANDS HAIR CLINIC
                                              SUCCESS

I was so very lucky.....unfortunately the man died about 3/4 of the way thru his training(in his Lab at 5 in the morning just starting his day!), but that is the key to my knowledge bank...( many people ask me that one!!!)




March 26, 2016

Brand New Sulfate-Free Shampoo Balls = Nohbo: Available Now on Indiegogo - Its Time To Start Paying Attention!



 Why Nohbo Shampoo Balls?


As the human race continues to exist on this planet, we have to take into consideration our environment. Nohbo is one small step to help reduce plastic and waste making the world a cleaner more livable space. 

 These balls are the size of a quarter. Absolutely ZERO packaging, don't just think of you.....think of your children and your children's children.

Well, I happened upon one of the most innovative products in hair shampoo that I have ever seen. Being as the majority of you ask us about shampoo's every single day of every week, we figured you would be as interested in this as much as I am. But...NO, it is not quite available yet - which believe me I found frustrating as well..But, lets help the kid out and start talking about it. We are 6,000 people strong here at Killerstrands Blog and that is THANKS to all of you ! Now I rarely ask anything of all of you but I am going to this time.


YUK - plastics

 I feel I have finally found the answer to everyone's questions and the funny part is a 15 year old boy developed this and it was presented on the TV show SHARK TANK ( which I don't watch) I happened upon this idea from my Cosmetic Chemistry magazine, which is saying a LOT that the editor of the magazine wrote a small review of the product and the fact that a 15 year old invented it - - AND I AM SO VERY HAPPY THAT THIS KID DID THIS ! ! !  and the one developer that I truly admire, " Mark Cuban" took a huge interest in this idea/shampoo and invested $100.000. and acquired 25% of the company. That was all I needed to know to make my own small investment and we will carry it as soon as its available (they say some time next month). 
 I LOVE THE MESSAGE, the formula, the idea, every single thing about the company


NOHBO is name of a small ball which is a shampoo ball
With all the plastic we use ( just check out every single hair product shelves in every single store you go in now. { no longer is it just the Salons - companies have figured out that people are obsessed with their hair and they will buy expensive hair products even if THEY DON'T WORK ! ! 




Above is a list of the features of NOHBO Shampoo Balls to give you an idea of what is important to the company it gels alongside my ideas about hair care as well, which you can see.




 So, for the very first time I would like to ask all of you to do a little Social Media spreading for me and for the kid, I think the product will be the answer to many of your requests for a wonderful shampoo. I promise as soon as I get my first one, you too, will hear about it.....




Thank you so much for listening and reading my little story.

KC

March 19, 2016

Lots Of You Want Perfectly Platinum Hair Lately ! !





Listen, the most gorgeous transition in the world is taking someone with BLACK hair all the way through the entire spectrum of color - beginning with BLACK HAIR and removing ALL signs of pigment.......ending up with the absolute gorgeous color : PLATINUM HAIR . It has always been my absolute most favorite application to do. Most Stylists hate it, but that is because they do not know how to get PLATINUM hair, they can only achieve Yellowy/Brass  and to do that is not rewarding AT ALL.

It takes a lot of dedication, a lot of patience and a LOT OF OIL BLEACH LIghtener to apply the correct amount of times, in order to achieve Platinum.

What is every hair Stylists' and every CRIB COLORISTS' main fault when trying to achieve Platinum hair color? ? ? ?  
  • NOT Applying Enough Applications. Unless you are a VIRGIN Level 8-9, you will need multiple applications of Oil Lightener always lightening the lengths FIRST - then the base - LAST. Oil Lightener means: Lightener in the Oil which is then added to Oil in the Creamy Oil Base. Make the investment and purchase our Oil Bleach Kit, it is worth every teeny tiny penny.
  • Be sure you read every Post on this Blog that deal with both going Platinum. . . .


Pitch Black Asian Hair Turned Snow White


a bit of a side note here . . . . . . . . .
a Salon trade magazine ran a pertinent article on Taking Asian Hair Blond. Its funny, when I'm working on a post, I will see a million things along the same line ... in the weirdest places....Send out good energy . . . it WILL come back to you

anyway . . . .

Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japans Harajuka district and the tweens there. While practically needing dynamite to get Asian hair - - blond , super blond is the hottest color to have. SILVER & PASTELS are very popular.

That was printed in our top Salon magazine. I have a couple of my own comments towards her theory of bleaching Asian Pitch black hair in that manner:

  • When bleach is applied the majority of its lifting ( Lightening) ability is done in the first 55 minutes...it still works for another hour or 2- but at such a snails slow pace that it is worth it to take the first application off rinse - INTENSIVE......RINSE....DRY. RE- apply a brand new batch! ...
  • I discovered if you rinse and re-apply a brand new batch, the process is much more effective. Re-applying a NEW batch, helped speed the process a long.  I f you REAPPLY (approx) 3 times in one day (using our Oil Lightener Kit ONLY!!!) .  You will be very close to perfectly platinum!
  • Once you remove the hair color (if needed) you may use 30 Volume on the ends with the first batch if hair was a Level 1-2 3 and it's needed - then OK go-for-it!
  • You can get an Asian -- Blond in one day, is my theory - if you use my tricks. I've done it many times, and with nicely conditioned hair, as well. The most important trick to accomplishing this....is so the hair remains in superb condition, is the use of ONLY an : OIL LIGHTENING KIT
  • If you have put your hair through too much in one day.... wait a week. Do that very last bleaching a week later and then apply the toner.... the best time to apply a toner is when the hair is freshly bleached.
I see no reason to take 5 days to bleach hair. I've heard of a few people doing it over 2 or even 3 days but never...5. If you follow my directions you won't have to do that either.

You can only tone blonde bleached hair........remember that.

The process needs to be called the BLEACH & TONE Process...ALWAYS always Tone bleached hair. ...........................Did I say..to bleach toned hair? Good.


This Asian girl has Red Ribbons in her hair,
The process begins with bleached "ribbons" { they are 1/4"-1/2" pieces of hair} ,(which do not need to be white,- frozen butter is fine) rinse, bright Semi permanent red applied to the bleached pieces.


I put this in here to remind you of the Levels hair lightens.... With Asian Hair the first bleach may only get the hair to the RED/BROWN Level....its a lot more resistant than caucasian hair, the First bleach on caucasian hair will get to the Orange/Gold or Gold Level {most likely}.
......see why there is a lot of gold and Yellow blond's walking around ?? 
It is the single stage where hair ( anyones hair) get stuck....as it goes through the lightening stage.
From talking to a lot of you I can see the biggest problem with most -- is hesitation with putting the bleach on more than once. I can tell you from 18 years of hair in Hollywood and MALIBU....I never bleached anyone's hair once.
Except Trevor. Remember Trevor? He is a Natural Level 9! Super Rare.






See the different "tones" of Blond here??? 

Underneath they are bleached the perfect, 'pale yellow/white'.......... then a different color TONER is applied.

Above has a Pale Golden Blond Toner, The second has an Apricot IceToner (tiny bit of copper in blond) . . . . the small photo below is Platinum Or "white toner" .... I used to call it the Marilyn White toner............Now can you see and thoroughly understand TONER??
Tomorrow you will learn to apply one. The Directions will double as directions for semi permanent Color  (Purchase BOOST & BURST in Violet Pilot in BOOST & Breaking Bad Blue in BURST, use it right after you have lifted the hair light enough and you will have sparkling platinum white hair.


I am going to go over the Application procedures for EVERY SINGLE type of Color
Using a HEAD SHEET ( piece of paper w/ 4 heads drawn) so you will know
  • where to start,
  • how large to make the partings
  • width of the partings for application of color
all the particulars, so your feel more secure when your buying color and developer separate - - - trying to get you all away from KITS!!!! . 

Is it working???
HOW DOES THAT SOUND?


March 16, 2016

A New FUN, FUNCTIONAL, FRAGRANT. . .Hair Tool: Re-INVENTED at Killerstrands

 Killerstrands presents a hair perfume-silicone protectant collection that invites you to care for and scent the hair in one gesture. Enjoy the uplifting power of long lasting scents as they subtly diffuse throughout the day, amplified by the natural movement of the hair. 

Each hair perfume combines one of KC's signature scents she has come up with in her Cosmetic Chemistry classes.....they have ZERO phthlates - so no worries there....incorporated into a unique silicone formula to create a light, invisible veil designed to leave the hair nourished/luminous  & protected while divinely scented. If you add the GLITTER (in any of 10 colors) you have added one more trick this little bottle produces!
Remember one of its best points as well, it protects the hair from HOT TOOLS! ( flat irons, curling irons even...blow dryers).


I subscribe to this very fancy but well worth it - hair magazine from London. I have for over 17 years and probably always will....it comes from the UK and is really a beautiful magazine. The UK is just so far ahead of us in hair (color, styling, cuts, health - they have real life Hair Doctors over there  ! ! !) They even sound very important : & are referred to as :  TRICHOLOGISTS and called "Doctors"!!!  

 Ever heard of Philip Kingsley? Well if you haven't you should check into his work , he is like the King Master Hair GURU of all time - he is the # 1 Trichologist in the world and he is getting very old so I ahve noticed I see his daughters name in place of where HIS used to be. He's a brilliasnt man & if money is no object and you need help with the HEALTH of the hair - go see him in London. But I"ve read some of his theories on hair color and I disagree with him....that is because he has never studied nor performed hair color repeatedly 12 hours a day 5-6 days a week ..........which is what I did and the top Colorists do. They have so much experience it really doesn't matter whats in the books, we learn exactly what to do in an exact situation - purely from so much practice!

When I first began studying Cosmetic Chemistry I was going to take all of the classes needed and become certified myself. I though that would really lend credibility to my Resume, being as I had no clue my career was going to be SHUT-DOWN, so un-expectedly by a cancer diagnosis. I was not prepared, I had not gathered photos and films and everything one must do to promote yourself when you kno longer can do hair....PLUS, This was just before the Social Media INFLUX, but still poor timing all around.

It has baffled me for years how much better the British are in this field than we are. We lead them in just about everything else. But, it doesn't matter... that is the reason I pay a small fortune to receive this magazine once a month - they even have to hide the way it is shipped to me because people steal it, which I find quite funny.


Regardless, last months magazine had quite the spread on the newest hot item on top of all the other tricks we have implemented over the years.
 A 2 in 1 COMBO ! ! ! 
 in a multitude of scents....so after some research and back to the mini lab I screwed around  - we now have a spread of 2 & 4OZ. Glossy Hair Fragrances for everyone to choose from. We'll see how you all like them and if they go over well we will be happy to expand the line....everyone here has fallen in love and I will pick a day this week to send everyone who orders a complimentary 1 ounce bottle and we'll see what everyone thinks.

The Base is Cyclomethicone, ...........and yes, I know some people have a hard time with.....I have never found a study, I believe, that proves silicone's on the hair are bad, I know --- I know there is a whole troop who do, but I have frizzy hair and prefer it smooth and straight so I have used them since they first came out over 10 years ago. I just give my hair a light spray and A VERY QUICK-OVER (very quick) with the Flat Iron, I have the fat-est hair in the world - so I just always like to be UP FRONT with you all and the decision is up to you.

ALSO A LITTLE GEM WE DISCOVERED .....the 4OZ size works incredibly well with a brand new micro-fine glitter we have received. Most fine and twinkle-y glitter you have ever seen, you can't see the glitter - it just looks like your hair is twinkling accompanied with a beautiful light scent.....the boys will be on the prowl !

2OZ. &  4OZ. sizes... It works wonderfully in the 4OZ. bottles nozzle, its as if we made it to work with these brand new colors and qualities. Glitter just has me so exited this year....I"m not sure why but it is now made so damn intricately -- what we have now looks exactly like diamonds to me.....its amazing the quality that goes into making it, in my opinion. It really is soooooooo small that just the right amount comes out the nozzle when you spray the hair Gloss onto the hair either to use as a LIGHT FRAGRANCE..... protect it from the heat of the HOT TOOLS.  add shine to dull hair.....or even all 3 ! 


ZCENTS - SCENTS - ZCENTS - SCENTS - ZCENTS
by Killerstrands


GARDENIA/FIG.....with a main single note of Gardenia, this fragrance does have just a hint of rose and tender orchid to accentuate the Gardenia and make it just a bit deeper and more complex.This fresh and green scent features top notes of leafy greens, zesty grapefruit and herbal cassis, with middles notes of Mediterranean fig with floral and powdery nuance ...Gorgeous. Phthalate-free
LEMON VERBENA MOSS..... its taken me a long time to find all of these and this one has stood the test of time I love as much today as I did the day I first caught a whiff. Who doesn't love lemons. Italian Bergamot, Lemon Verbena mixed with sultry Primrose and Violet. Rounding the blend out is a dry down of Amber and White Musk. Awesome.
AMBER/ CINNAMON......Our Amber blend also contains notes of Vanilla, Patchouli, Sandalwood - Cinnamon and Musk. KC's All-Time Love + Timeless.
BLUE ANGEL STAR - The most intoxicating scent of a lifetime.

Zillions of colors of glitter

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Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better

Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better
Xcellent Gray Coverage, beautiful Shine + Hair Looks Like a Million Bucks w/ Wella !

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We RECEIVE : Many Kind Acknowledgements :

Dear KC,

Such a nice thing for you to offer...
I have been with you for years, now and
can't thank you enough for all you do for us!!! My thoughts are with you often hoping your health is
improving.
Your site is life changing...
Love you.
Kim
May 30, 2015

BOOST + BURST

BOOST + BURST
Killerstrands Own Color Enhancing Shampoo+ Conditioners in 26 Colors