Wednesday, April 9, 2014

How to Become the Incredible Lightness of Being a High-lift Blonde !




One must accomplish these professional tricks to 
getting the maximum lightness out of a high-lift blonde:



  • Apply couple squirts of Gleam apply wherever color is going lightly (Gleam does NOT have silicone in it, if you have other brand oils they most likely have silicone's which screws up the way hair color works - I've never seen 1 oil without silicone in it but Killerstrands
  • Use 12/1 or 12/0 + 0000 Blonde booster in Davines ( read the pamphlet as I have a lot of things memorized but not the amount of 'booster to color' in every brand very few even have them)
  • Ratio of developer to color must be DEAD on EXACT.... which would be for every high-lift in every brand --- 1:2  for every 1 ounce of color add 2 ounces of developer. We call it "DOUBLE 40 "
  • Color must be must be applied & processed in a warm/hot room
  • must be processed for minimum 55-65 min.
  • must use VIOLET developer / 40Volume using Highlift ---  20Volume if using Cream lightener/bleach
  • Rinse out 3 minutes longer than normal - 'light' shampoo not touching scalp
  • lightly towel dry
  • USE INTENSIVE to lock in color and prevent fading for at least 30 minutes.
  • Then we apply the toner............if you do all of that u would have a better idea if the highlift was going to work.
  •  
If it doesn't look good after all those professional tricks.
I'm sorry but you will have to give into the cream Lightener most likely.
 
Your hair is most likely too dark and has the wrong DURP which is only a matter of genetics, and you simply can't change that.

Remember my rule:

USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB

 KC

Saturday, March 22, 2014

O&M Haircare : Superbly Designed Hair Care Line .......Reduce The Chemical Overload

logo
 Healthy hair begins when it’s free from stress. Reduce the chemical overload
O&M challenges the artificial norms of professional haircare with formulations that are both effective and gentle. Removing harsh chemicals wherever possible while including natural extracts and active minerals that deliver real benefits.



Above is the motto and logo of a new line of products that stem from Australia, that look like a million bucks and have wonderfully -lathery - healthy...sulfate-free Shampoos.

At the heart of O&M : they believe that no Client (You!) OR Hair Stylist should be exposed to unnecessary chemicals and no one should  have to constantly work with them. This is the very first line of products I've encountered that is taking both people into account, so that was all I needed. VERY VERY  impressive.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    
Come Clean
 ‘Come Clean’ was shot over two days. The stills and video reflect O&M’s belief that a more natural ingredient direction doesn’t mean the brand can’t have a polished aesthetic.



They've thought hard about hair and developed a shampoo & conditioner to suit every hair type.
All O&M Shampoos and Conditioners are especially formulated for colored hair and are designed to guard against color fade with inbuilt UV Protection. I think one of the main complaints about sulfate-free shampoos is that they don't lather as well, Well O & M has conquered that and gone to the next step. Wonderful lather / Creamy Suds.

Leaving out harsh chemicals including Parabens, MIT and Triclosan, we've replaced them with natural native actives from O&M's birthplace of Australia. Sourced from diverse geographical locations from the desert to the ocean, these Australian native actives deliver many benefits while nourishing and protecting the hair.


Each O&M Shampoo has its own graphic colored cap to help make selecting the right one simple.



WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED:

I have never really pointed out some of the chemical names you should avoid, but O&M makes a great list of the Top 6 that you should watch out for, so make sure they are not in any hair products you purchase. O & M makes it easy, they are so strongly committed to creating ONLY healthy hair products
Here are some of the 'everyday' chemicals they've left out of all haircare and styling products. For some the science isn't yet final on whether these substances are cause for concern but if we can find effective alternatives, then where's the harm?
  • Sulfates - Are used to clean the hair of its natural oils, leaving the hair feeling dry and looking matte. Denatures skin proteins and largely effects people with contact dermatitis. 
  • Parabens - Have anti-fungal and antibacterial properties that act as a preservative for maintaining freshness and longer product shelf life. One of the leading chemicals that can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis.
  •  Propylene Glycol - Used to bind many haircare products together and retain moisture content not only on the hair but also in packaging. Propylene glycol has been linked to causing headaches, backaches and kidney problems.
  • M.I.T. - Methylisothiazolinone prevents bacteria. Due to the high exposure to the scalp through haircare, MIT in hair products greatly damages skin cells, causing itching, flaking and soreness on the scalp.
  • Triciosan - Another chemical that is used to kill bacteria on the hair. Triclosan's manufacturing process can also create dioxin, a powerful hormone disrupter that can have long term health effects.
  • Phthalates - Cling to the hair to give it fragrance and also gives hair product such as gels more staying power. Exposure to phthalates in pregnant women can cause harm during critical periods of a child's development.

    haircare

    They've thought hard for hair and developed a shampoo & conditioner to suit every hair type.

    All O&M Shampoos and Conditioners are especially formulated for colored hair and are designed to guard against color fade with inbuilt UV Protection. Its a great line you will be completely thrilled with it !

    The bottles will make your bathroom a work of art, for some reason Australia is miles ahead of us in packaging design, the bottles work brilliantly and are perfect for slippery hands in the water/soapy atmosphere of a shower/bath.

    KC
     

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Wild Side Hair Color Predictions - Summer 2014

Predictions for some beautiful shades of Crazy Color Pastels.

Killerstrands sends the Directions of how to make pastels to achieve a whole head of color or even if you just want the 'tips' of your hair colored with a pastel, it would be fun for a week or 2 , don't let all these photos from creating your own look.  Please check out the lines of crazy color we carry, and just know when you buy any brand you can request the professional secret as to how to pull off the "PASTEL" look you seen in these photos of hair - summer 2014
                       Rose Raspberry                                              


                                Blu Bob



Shrunken UP Violet 


Roots Alive

 Metallica Blue Wave



 Sky - Hawk

Tangerine Dream













and here is the formula:

12% =  40Volume

Remember, she has VIRGIN hair tho . . . .  


 

 Follow these directions and if you need any help at all join our GROUP
 in which you get to talk to KC about your hair formula or dilemma's or 
whatever your case may be !


Visit Our Store for New, Interesting and always HEALTHY Hair Products, I take the job of reading labels out of your hands, I know ingredients well and I know what they do.


KC

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Dye By The Seat Of Your Pants

JUST SAY "NO" TO 
BOX HAIR COLOR KITS 
(and why)

Boxed Hair Color Kits should be banned from the shelves of every store


Plain and simply:
they are FALSE Advertising
I believe the manufacturers should get in trouble, for false advertising!

My goal is for you, the consumer, to have the proper tools to complete a good head of hair color on your hair -- yourself.
But . . . .
it is now time for the system to be revamped into separating the Tube from Developer. That's what needs to be done - very simple, the manufacturers know it, but they need to know YOU know it.


ALL BOXED HAIR COLOR SHOULD BE TRASHED

Because they do not work correctly except for on a small percentage of consumers and even on those, the results are dismal. Those of us that are Hair Stylists, have known that forever and we never say anything . . . why? Because its “job security”. Every single month of every single year we have a number of new clients sit in our chairs that call with the same story, “ I colored my hair at home with a kit and it is destroyed” can you please fix it???

How ridiculous is that?........so they paid $9.00 for the boxed color and $200.00 to get it fixed minimum ! How silly is that?

The huge multi-million dollar companies that run the hair industry…are just getting bigger and bigger and the true “care” for your hair is being lost. The big companies just don’t care. You know those DOVE “real Women campaigns where they show “bigger” women and their hair…..well DOVE still uses Sulfates in all their shampoos, the ingredient that has been proven over and over to cause hair loss, thinning, in women and men. Why? Because it costs pennies. Like I said they don’t care about hair….not really. They almost had even me tricked, then I read the bottle of their shampoo.

A big blow came to me this past month when I found out the one shampoo that I have had all my clients using for the past couple years…PUREOLOGY, was sold to L’Oreal. There just is no end in sight of this, its so sad to me. I will never buy PUREOLOGY again


The new recommendations are DAVINES, LANZA or SUDZZ Shampoos... the staff put 12 of our shampoos through a month long test (incl. me) > I was looking for the shampoo with the best creamy lather which is what you get with the proper ingredients being used, results came back with those 3 being the Top 3.
 

Now as for the Boxed Hair color Kits I am so livid about…
there is just NO way possible that they can put the proper components in one box. Why?
 

Because when coloring hair -- any good colorist has to have at least the KILLER 15 questions answered first, before coming up with the proper formula. Without those questions answered, there is simply no way you can just throw in a box:1 tube of color and 1 specific 

Developer
and claim that it will work on ALL women that purchase it.
So it is a out and out LIE, false advertising and any other form of perjury you can think of.

How about this scenario . . . .



What if a Redhead ...
An African American ...




A Blonde ...


and a Brunette ...
All walk into the store . . . . to buy the hair color of Medium blond in a box....
Which one of those 4 poor unsuspecting consumers is going to have the proper outcome?

Do you think all 4? Hell no, 1............maybe.
 Logically I think most of you can figure that out, that, if they all start with a different hair color...that probably only one of 4 should have a good outcome.
Right?
Yes > Correct.
How in the world.....with one formula in that one little box . . . could all four of them have decent results?
THEY
CANNOT
it is
mathematically/ Scientifically/ chemically Impossible

 So 3 of those people will have hair disasters ..and go seeking help from the closest Salon. 
Well, guess what public (that's you) ?? 
The same people that make BOXED COLOR.........own the companies make professional hair color. So that means they have made you a huge customer of theirs by both ruining your hair, then fixing it ! Now, who feels like you have been suckered?




In that Kit box is:

  •  1 tube of color…………… 
  • 1  bottle of developer………………………
Yet . . . .
In my Color Room alone I have well over 150 Tubes of different Colors to choose from
Developer comes in 6-10 levels (3 Volume, 5 Volume, 6 volume,10 vol, 13Vol., 15 vol.,20 vol. 25 Volume,,30 vol.,40 volume and even 50 Volume)
So if you were to do the math (if I did math well I wouldn’t be doing this). . . How many options does that multiply to be ??


Zillions. most likely
 
The point being... that all those options are necessary in order for the hair color formula to work properly... you or anyone coloring their hair deserves the opportunity to have the proper hair color when the process is complete. Especially if you are selling a product that is supposed to color hair.
When you buy one of those kits, you are opening a box of Color "FAILURE"
You have about a 20% chance to succeed, and I do not find that to be fair to you at all !.

I’ve written about this subject previously, there are a few variables when planning to color your hair that must be taken into account in order to have the proper rich color without any damage. Those variables are NOT taken into account with those damn Hair Color Kits.

When determining the color formula you are going to apply to your hair > a simple fact like: having dry hair that is porous compared to oily hair that is not….can make a huge difference in the formulation. Just knowing that one fact can prevent hair breakage, and make the difference in having shiny hair when the color process is complete compared to having damaged – dull hair.

Do they ask you those questions when you buy a box of color?
Or print that anywhere to be found?
NO NO NO.
I understand now that people need to be able to color their hair at home, for many many reasons. Convenience I have found is even a big one. I never quite understood the concept before when I was in the Salon,
now I get it.


Would many of you consider baking a cake without a recipe?
Or making cookies without any knowledge of how to measure ....or knowing the difference between a Tablespoon and a teaspoon.
Same thing with Coloring your hair. 


Once you have the basics down, which you can learn by reading this, the Killerstrands Blog, hop over to the Killerstrands Store,  I will show here with links the items I feel you need to begin to learn how to color your own hair professionally:
First of all:
  • Join our Group, for a nominal fee monthly, you will get direct help from KC, as well as access to all the people who have come BEFORE you, a wealth of knowledge.
  • Purchase the Tools kit
  • GLEAM : KS Dry Hair Oil, apply prior to coloring, nightly treatment, truly conditions hair
  • Color Wheel
  • hair color (from KC in group)
  • Peroxide Wheel
  • INTENSIVE made by Killerstrands ( pH balancer & porosity equalizer, locks in color after rinsing out. 
 Now, remember I have different directions and instructions than you have ever seen regarding hair color and the processing of it. So open your mind and get ready to begin the path to becoming a Crib Colorist. This is how the celeb's have such beautiful hair....and its just not that hard for you to achieve it as well! ! ! 

You will have to do some reading and you may not quite understand a few of the theories but I am trying like Hell to turn Crib Coloring into a HOBBY on its own, like cooking has become. I feel like so many of you.... male and female, would love that to come true..

So send your friends to Killerstrands, let people know your secret, because the larger we grow the more products we will be able to come up with. 

The Group is kind of a slower procedure, if you want a fast Consultation we have that as well.

Thank you so much and remember The big hair companies are getting your  money twice!

Friday, March 7, 2014

How Do I Correct My Mess... or ...Color Correcting & Hair

Why, When, How, Who About Color Correction



Every Hair Color procedure you do is unique and along that same line can create unique problems.  Most Hair Stylists and most of you want to believe that there is a ROCK-SOLID guide to the formulation for every hair color application.......well, there just > is not, nor will there ever be.












 If I took 5 separate women - with virgin hair (never colored or chemically straightened) Level 7 (light brown), with the exact same: shoulder length - straight hair and used them as hair models. We mixed your and my favorite > high-lift: DAVINES 12/1 + 40Volume . . . applied it to all 5 of them (in the exact same manner) -- all 5 would turn out different !!

Why?

These factors are completely different on all 5 of the girls, even though you cannot see them.
  1. DURP - Dominant Underlying Remaining pigment
  2. condition of hair
  3. (PET) Porosity of the hair
  4. (PET) Elasticity of the hair
  5. (PET) Texture  of hair
  6. Natural Base ( within every Level of hair color is variations)
  7. Existing tint
All of the 5 factors effect and contribute to the end result. All 5 of those factors will make each one of those 5 girls end up with a different tone of blond, 1 will most likely be brassy (so more would need to be done to hair) - while 1 will be absolutely striking and the most beautiful blond you've ever seen - the other 3 will be varying shades in the middle.  As far as most of you are concerned: you really only need to figure out your own contributing factors and deal with those.

You hair stylists out there . . .its just a matter of experience and the amount of heads you color.  That is what makes a "GREAT" Hair Stylist... one that has learned how each & every one of his/her individual clients hair reacts to hair color. So when they come in to go to lighter in the Spring you can address that without trouble and then go darker in the fall - all care free. For you Crib Colorists, all you have to learn is how your own hair reacts to hair color...which really shouldn't take that long. Remember, you can always join our group its only $10.00/monthly and I will help you conquer your hair color questions. Even help YOU correct your color.



colorist9

Corrective Hair coloring is a subject that can be terrifying to many hair stylists. Many hair stylists don't and won't tackle it. I have found in small towns, there may not be even 1 and that is one of the reasons I started Killerstrands, to help you. Even here in southern California we are full of a billion little towns. Within every town there are usually 40-50 Salons, with 1 or 2 emerging as the "it" Salon, within one of those 2 Salons there should be 2-3 Hair Stylists that can really "cut" hair. . and then another 1 or 2 holding the "Best Colorist" Title. Ask around........there should be one if your scared to try it your self, but you really wouldn't believe how simple is. I have it broken down in steps now I have been doing it so long.

 I, fortunately or not ?!?! was the color correction specialist for Malibu for 13 years. Being an expert at color correction can be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, you receive  top dollar for it, but it also can take days - - depending on the damage or amount of boxed hair color used. I suppose its why I am so opinionated about the pitfalls of boxed hair color - - I spent all those years - - helping people out of the messes they created due to the fact that the company's that make those Boxed Color make it seem like you will have beautiful - perfect color. Something that is so far from the truth. That was tough, they came in looking for empathy and that was a very hard emotion for me to muster up. Back then I rarely watched TV, I didn't really know how bad and misleading the advertising is, I guess that's why people buy it.
56502565
I had so many friends that were just so happy to give their hair color correction cases to me, even people I didn't know would send me their clients all the time.... I'm sure it's still that way in all the cities and towns around you. Color correction is a very difficult subject.... there are no hard and fast rules, there is no "Book of Hair Color Correction Rules" . . .you have to use your experience to conquer it . We try to uncover what has been covered up on your hair. It takes a seasoned, experienced and patient Hair Colorist to tackle this subject successfully.

The reason the color correction is so expensive?
  • usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color
  • conditioners are essential along the way
  • Fillers are most often required
  • expertise as a colorist is challenged and valued
As with regular color formulations, you must consider the 3 contributions for the end result:
  1. Hair
               a. Base
               b. Goal
    2.   Color
    3.   H2 O2

If hair is damaged or even questionable, you should proceed slowly. Don't take chances. Using deep conditioners (Thriven) along the way. What the hair is missing after old color is removed? LIPIDS.....the only way to restore lipids is to apply oils from nature, such as Gleam....lipids are what give hair shine !

COLORING  OVERPOROUS  HAIR
Uneven porosity can cause an uneven result, because over-porous hair accepts artificial pigment differently. There are different ways to compensate for over-porosity:
  • Lipid-Replacement: I have discovered on my own how darn important replacing those lipids from 18 yrs experience. Gleam has NO silicone's, it is very hard to find another oil like that, I have not found one in all these years, your hair DOES NOT WANT silicone's - which is what all the other products have in them. Read the labels !.
  • INTENSIVE : I have created a unique product called INTENSIVE (because that's what it is) it IS Intensive ! It has ingredients that will work with your hair and even out the porosity, many use it as a daily conditioner but it truly was made for Color Correction. No one makes one and I don't have any idea -- why?
  • the formula: intensify the formula, make warmer, & use a lower volume developer. 10 Volume is usually ideal. Semi-Permanent color or Demi-Permanent  & no ammonia color are great choices.  Because they deposit & don't lift). When lightening - don't use ash.
  • how you apply : hair can be dampened with water a little, or with INTENSIVE - to help equalize it
  • processing time adjusted: shorten the time, over-porous hair processes very fast
    Over-porous hair tends to reject warmth and accept ash. The more over porous it is, the more it selects out warmth and grabs ash, which is called "abused rejected".
I can not say this enough: " STRAND TEST  -  STRAND TEST  -  STRAND TEST ! "

COLOR  FILLERS

Color Filler :  a hair-coloring product or formula used to pre-pigment previously lightened or over-porous hair, replacing missing underlying pigment (DURP), compensating for over-porosity and preparing the hair for even acceptance of whatever hair coloring follows. Color Fillers are always warm.

Does that make sense to most of you? I get asked about Fillers all the time, they make so much sense to me . . . but when I look at people's puzzled faces when trying to teach them to other Stylists - even . . .I am fairly certain that most of you probably do not understand what they are. Am I right?
How do you know what color to fill with? They are slightly lighter than the underlying pigment of the color you want to achieve, depending on the tonal result desired, porosity and the product used.  So there is no "one color" to use when filling the hair. So if you need to get that yucky hair color out of your strands, and want to take your hair back into your own hands....the Group is probably your answer.
I
Conditioner Fillers - I use these to help recondition damaged overly porous hair. . . this way the conditioner/lipids ( from the oils) can be replaced while the color is working and has the cuticle OPEN, remember there is no other time this happens.
 Apply Gleam + Thriven + the filler . . . is just the prefect way to even the porosity - fill the hair & repair the lost lipids all at the same time.

Color Fillers - in today's world . . .Semi & Demi-permanent colors are used for filling. The Wella Color Touch Line is used by many Colorists, for the longest time they were the only company that had a Demi line. Colorist today. Its the most wonderful line, of Demi permanent colors, it contains the perfect amount of deposit, smells nice, imparts more shine than almost any line of hair color I have experienced . . . its a line of hair color. Which you can get in our store.
There are just a million and one reasons to use the Color Filler. Using color Fillers has several advantages:
  • deposits color to faded ends and hair shaft
  • helps hair to hold hair color
  • prevents streaking & dull appearance
  • prevents off color results
  • produces more uniform, natural looking color in a tint
  • produces uniform color when doing a tint-back
Fillers are most often used for blondes returning to their original brunette base.
Picture a Level 11-12 . . .  something like this:

level 11 - KKKKK

who is tired of her look and she wants so go back to her original color  - a level 5 B, one of my favorite colors . . .

level 5 -eee

This is a perfect example of the most common reason for filling hair. See the Level 10 . . . in order to get it to the Level 5 . . . what is missing?
Warmth.  It is a completely blank canvas, all the color is gone, it has been removed . . . because in this case if you had warmth it would be deemed 'brassy'.

 So, in order to get it to this Level 5 - Light Brown - the goal. . .one must fill-IN (where the "filler" name came from) the missing warmth. In hair color, warmth means: reds, golds, oranges, yellows.  Therefore (depending on all the factors we talked about above) a nice mixture of Level Reds and Golds in Schwartzkopf Mousse, Color Touch or Davines & 7 Volume would be the proper formula.

First:  Apply Gleam/Thriven to all the hair strands - then apply the RG formula for 20 minutes,. , , which is half the timing of normal hair coloring. Rinse: and be ready for a shocker - - - the hair will be a lovely shade of shocking orange.

killercutscolors324

But you cannot say it does, not have a warmth!  After the filler Apply INTENSIVE for 10 minutes and then the desired color  .
There you have it - - -  fillers du jour . . .

Here are a couple articles with their opinions about reasons you may need Color Correction:

COLOR CORRECTION9999
    COLOR CORRECTION 777777                                                                                                                                                      kc5

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Change Your Hair Color............... Or Not ?!

It really shouldn't be scary to change hair color, they used to say something at Sassoon that will probably give most of you a complete and utter heart attack, they would say, why not change your color or cut your hair, it really is "only hair".


ONLY HAIR. . . .  Are they fricken' kidding, my hair is EVERYTHING to me. To that date is how long I had thought that way.....so chalk it up to my maturing, becoming ill, and after over 14,000 Heads of Hair I finally have come around to that way of thinking...so that is not how I expect you to think. But just think about that sentence every once in a while. 

It is truly .... "only hair".


At first I couldn't believe they could say such a thing but the more they said it the more it made sense to me.....it really is 'just hair'. What could really go wrong if you change your color ? Your family will still love you, your friends will still love you.........and strangers ..... strangers, don't even know you have changed it, so you need not care about those unknown -- AT ALL ! I've had a few  in the group  lately who are very hesitant about changing their hair color....I know I felt that way at some point, but it was so long ago I don't remember the feeling. I slowly learned that with the technology we have in today's marketplace and as long as you have some cash.... & know a good colorist - - YOU CAN BE ANY COLOR ON THE PLANET...! any color on earth is pretty much achievable....and then you CAN go back again if you don't like it. Remember tho ...... this is all on the theory that you have a fat wallet !

This Blog is just about 7 years old! 

Yep, I started way back with my mission to teach women and men how to care for their hair HONESTLY, CORRECTLY and with SCIENCE as the basis behind all of the suggestions and education I teach you.

 Please I promise you my own products work better than any hair conditioners / repairers than any you have ever tried. That is a bold statement, but after 7 years and hundreds of comments and emails I receive each week (I read every single one - btw!) -- I have developed that confidence.  I had a few college girls really love THRIVEN, so I decided it was time to re-tell some of my basic stories.

My number 1 suggestion for people writing me and wanting help is:

#1 Start reading at the beginning of this Blog -- read all Posts - { it really doesn't take that long }.

 I have heard from well over 1000 people...........
that, it was the single best piece of advice they had ever received regarding the HEALTH and HAIR COLOR of their hair.....in their life. My heart warms every single time I hear that.
We have customers from 18 - 88 our products appeal to all ages and all types of hair! 

 Remember you have 3 solid categories of hair color to choose from and those all have different results, everyone knows about permanent color here is some "current" information about what color does and is about TODAY :
Semi-Permanent : such as the Professional lines of Hair Color (we finally found 2 professional lines in this category that are just a knock-out!) - this type of color is so different because you do NOT mix it with any developer. That way it does NOT make a line of demarcation, they TRULY wash all they way out. If there is a box or package that says it is Semi-Permanent and there are 2 bottles and 1 of them has either white or clear liquid. It is a downright LIE. There are thousands of them that advertise it is SEMI permanent but then add developer. Once you add developer, the hair shaft WILL be changed, so I don't have to prove it. SCIENCE DOES! ! ! ! ( watch for those in the BOXED HAIR COLOR aisle.....so watch out closely for it.

Semi-Permanent Hair Color
  • Schwartzkopf MOUSSE - in 21 Colors - apply very quickly, covers gray roots for 2 weeks!
  • DAVINES Gloss : Pigment Glosses in 14 Colors - all inter-mixable - add a color boost + SHINE ! 
Demi-Permanent Hair Color: the next step up ...this Color has little to LOW ammonia, it is used with 3 to 15 Volume Developer....and any Volume in-between, it does make a line of Demarcation. A very light one, but 'one' . . . . just the same. Companies lead you to believe the opposite. This category is GREAT for 1st time Gray coverage ( up to 20%)...great for Toners and also for a little body. We carry the following Demi-Perm lines:

  • Wella Illumina Hair Color (our most popular color line) - Use with 6, 10 and 13 Volume Developer from the Color Touch and Wella Koleston Perfect Lines . Newest most remarkable hair color by Wella which works a different way than any other hair color and produces a lot of shine by all reports coming in.
  • Wella Color Touch Wella's long time Demi-Permanent line of color, use 6 & 13 Volume. A large 122 color catalog.
  • Schwarzkopf VIVIANCE  - Demi-Permanent Hair Color
  • Davines - Use their line with 10 Volume, this line has enormous tubes, so economically it works out to be the least expensive, and the results are BEYOND Gorgeous.

I believe all of these colors should be processed a full hour  for proper color absorption, maximum gray coverage and for the most extreme and long-lasting SHINE you've seen !


Always finish with INTENSIVE, you will see what a truly effective product it is, after your 1st application!

St. Patricks Day is on its way . . . . . Green hair in some cases 'can' be beautiful ! ! !

KC
Killer Chemist

    Wednesday, February 19, 2014

    Shampoo; Its Job and the Only Thing It Truly Can and SHOULD Do

    I would imagine most consumers think there are constant changes going on in shampoos, from all the wacky commercials on the tube.........it seems like one week they have discovered how to add shine, the next how to give you Volume. Know from me........ that shampoo does NOT HAVE THE CAPACITY TO DO ANY OF THOSE TRICKS, really ! Shampoo..........has the ability to clean your hair.........that is its job and as long as it cleans your hair well, without leaving any lingering bad ingredients, that is all you should expect from it.  There are about a hundred million other products for all the various tasks you would like to do to your hair, just require your shampoo to clean your hair AND THAT'S IT ! ! ! Doing that correctly is all a shampoo can do, no matter what they tell you on advertisements. This is ALL these products have the capacity to do:

    SHAMPOO...........................CLEAN
    CONDITIONER.....................CONDITION & UNTANGLE 
    SPRAY CONDITIONER.........UNTANGLE

    Frankly, within the chemistry make-up and formulation end of shampoo it has not changed that much in the last 30 years...in my eyes. About a month ago I made a few calls to some of the major shampoo manufacturers in the US to see what they had to say about the biggest changes in within their up coming shampoo releases.

    This was the best news I have heard in a very very long time. They all said the same thing > "Sulfate-Free" is their number 1 Red Flag  - STILL ! I still don't see as much as I wish there was. I wish all the inexpensive shampoos were Sulfate-free. This has been a knife in my side now for at least 15 years.



    So rejoice . . they have finally heard the complaints and bitching I and many of my stylist com-padres have unleashed on the world! I'm not going to complain about the time it took . . . at least "it took". That is a very good thing.

    I cannot completely prove that SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a 100% cause of all the hair loss and hair thinning in women of late....because I still feel from all my research that it is because of the synergistic effect of the combination of ...all of the 13 steps of 10,000 HEADS.

    I bought some SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate way back when I was an innocent little cosmetic chemist trying to make my own shampoo that was better than the what was offered at the stores....it is this puffy white powder. But when you open the top of a simple small jar of the actual product "SLS" and the inside of your nose, eyes and lungs BURN simply from 1 tiny inhale.....SOMETHING IS DRASTICALLY WRONG ... who in their right mind would put that on hair and hair follicles...??? .......wow that subject infuriates me...and always will. Stay away from SLS, or SULFATES..... become accustom to reading labels please....just like you do for your food. You have to learn to protect yourself...there are so many millions of products on the market now that it is not even realistic to think that our government could keep control over that entire industry. We can't even keep Terrorists out of the country that are trying to kill us with guns and Airplanes !

    Now, there are many lines that have Sulfate-Free Shampoo.......its funny I felt when REDKEN the company that is owned by a FRENCH company (L'Oreal) finally created a sulfate-free shampoo, then I will feel like my message has finally saturated the market. Guess what happened last month?




    So I have brought you the last bullheaded company who told me many times they felt through their studies that sulfates were not dangerous.......you know who also told me that? DAVINES ...........when I called them a few years back when I appealed to them to carry a sulfate-free line to appease my findings ............they also told me they didn't believe in my theories.....
    Well, besides the Oi Shampoo Sulfate-Free Line in a couple weeks another line will be dropping to join the other line.....so in a matter of months the DAVINES company will soon have 2 Sulfate-free lines to choose from.

    KC
    Killer Chemist

    Monday, February 3, 2014

    Hair today . . . gone tomorrow .......here i am


    The Brain Bone Connected to the Hair Bone

    FPHL  =   Female Pattern Hair Loss
     


    Education of How Hair Loss Hits Women 


    The most common cause of hair loss in women is “androgenetic alopecia” which basically means FPHL or Female Pattern Hair Loss, the women’s version of:
    • aging
    • hormones
    • genetics.............all affecting hair loss. 
    It has been fairly well established that hair loss issues between the sexes is completely different. Not only does male pattern baldness ‘reveal’ differently, scientists believe the solutions are also down a different path than women’s. The men already have a quick-fix pill that works well (Propecia), while the women still only have Minoxidil (Rogaine) as the only FDA approved drug to combat loss. We don’t even include minoxidil in the 10,000HEADS Protocol, although clients are more than welcome to use it. Our work & research at killer strands is focused mainly on the issue of Women’s hair loss as is this blog, we do see & help men at the clinic, but our focus has been forced to narrow lately.

    Killer strands would like to introduce to you a new way of understanding the female hair loss plaguing America today. By recent estimates 40 million women are suffering from one form or another of hair loss and the numbers continue to rise. In order for women to understand why the 10 steps of this program work, we have found it helps to educate and explain the “HAIR GROWTH CYCLE in a little different method, one that is clear – simple – and concise . When we take the time to explain the whole process at the clinic you can just see the light bulb’s going on over heads .


    Every person is born with every single hair follicle they will have for lifetime, on the body, at birth. As a tiny baby you are born with 5 million hair follicles throughout your entire body , with 1 million on the head and 100,000 on the scalp. There are 2 types of hairs within all those, vellus and terminal…vellus are the short fuzzy, soft ones that do not grow, while the “terminal” hairs are just that, terminal. 


    Think about that, as that is what will help you understand the reason behind alopecia, the hairs on your scalp have a life-span…they sprout ,grow, shed – rest, then begin the process all over again.



     Now there are technical names for all of these stages which you can see on the chart, but what is important here, is that each and every single hair on your head sprouts, grows & sheds, & rests…shedding is a mandatory part of new hair growth. 

    A hair remains in its GROWTH phase for approx. 4 years (fluctuates by person) – at the end of the growth phase it is shed {hair fall}; three months later another grows in its place. When the hair is shed there is the period of awaiting cell regeneration … which begins another new hair… and ‘that’ is where the diminishing numbers come from and that is where noticeable hair loss on your head begins.

    As we age the hair that once grew for 4 years – the next time it may only grow for 3 1/2 years, the next time for 3 years and so on. Therefore, if you had 50,000 hairs growing for 4 years when you were 20 years old and then each 4-5 years later . . . . the amount went down another 2-3,000...you can see fairly well how thinning happens and that when it does happen it has been happening for months that you were not even aware of. 

    The result: an even...all-over or “DIFFUSE” pattern of hair loss which explains WPHL or women’s pattern hair loss . We believe that the hair SHIFT term that we coined is the result of 10 years accumulation of changes within the body (for one reason or another) resulting in a distinct and noticeable change in a woman's hair.




    Every single hair on your head sheds, that is the completely normal process within the normal growth cycle of each and every hair. In order for a new hair to grow in the old one has to shed, so the “cycle” can continue along its merry way! Many people panic about hair shedding, 95% of the time it is within the normal range, it has just been combined with a person’s aging & hormones, so it seems more severe, which is understandable.

    Compare the hair to the eyes to make it easier to understand.

    The eyesight of a 20 year old is at its peak, with many having 20/20 vision, move forward 20 years – and reading a menu all of a sudden becomes difficult & blurry, people panic 95% of the time...and its just age. 

    Same thing with your hair, it was at its peak when you are/were about 18-20, from there it begins its retreat until one day the combination of your aging and some abnormal shedding just seems to hit you around about the same week.


    Gleam if Applied Daily to scalp : Prevents premature hair loss; - Supports healthy hair growth; - Increases volume

     When you are about 30, you will notice your first or second hair SHIFT. Many women are having babies around this age, and having a baby can do both make your hair thicker or make it thinner…there is just not one way it will go. If you were to implement the entire 10,000heads program, religiously you have a very good chance the hair SHIFT you have will be a ‘good” one. That is one fact we are absolutely sure of. There are many of you who relish taking care of your hair to the optimum, you read my rules - you follow almost every single step and you are thrilled with the results.
    Some of you just will not.

    Each individual hair is formed inside a hair bulb deep in the hair follicle. The follicle is a tiny but powerful factory, which throughout many people’s lifetime hardly ever stops working. From birth to sometimes as much as a century in some people, the follicle continues to produce hairs! Each hair grows for years, it is shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry, colored, bleached, permed…none of these treatments affects the growth of the hair in the hair bulb, even though some may radically damage the hair shaft.  Those hairs continue to grow anew! I find that simply amazing....still to this day!


    Finally the hair falls out, rests for a little while then produces yet another new hair! That is the HAIR GROWTH CYCLE, the cell regeneration that goes on in the hair follicle is the most prolific on the body, coming in second is the spine.

    PHASES of the hair GROWTH cycle
    Anagen 1000 days
    Catagen 10 days
    Telogen 100 days


    Hair grows ½ inch per month (on average) and faster in the Spring. Mens anagen phase is shorter than womens so genetically they are already predisposed to shorter hair then women.

    I have gotten away from talking about the hairs thickness and how to keep a healthy head of hair so I felt a good dose of education surrounding ...''How to keep a Healthy Head of Hair" would be wonderful.

     KC



    Ever heard of this?

    Ever heard of this?