Knowing the 4 Distinct TYPES of Hair Color is Super Important... Or You May Get In Trouble When Choosing

 I have a number of Consultations going on at any one time and you will be surprised why I do them really. I like to keep very up-to-date with what everyone is or is NOT understanding as far as my hair color Education Posts on this Blog go.  Therefore when I go through a couple Consultations and I listen to what the people do and do not understand it makes me try to RE-TEACH a subject so that maybe if I approach it from a different angle then maybe more of you will understand it better and more clearly.

For example the "types of Hair Color"
 - right when I feel I have taught it from every single angle possible a person in my  consultation explains how they don't understand what the difference is between Semi-Permanent hair color and Demi-permanent and that could create a gigantic problem that I certainly don't want to be the cause of.....
So when I repeat subjects it is because I want you to read this description from another angle....

1} Temporary Hair Color
Temporary color is what many of you use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... these color molecules may be removed by shampooing...
This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft.
Temporary hair colors are available in a variety of colors & products such as:

• color rinses applied weekly to add color
• colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
• hair mascara
• special effects
• color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : like Boost & BURST

2} Semi Permanent Hair color 
 Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. It lasts only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo. This is exactly what BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos and conditioners are....

Many Semi-Perm colors can be used straight out of the bottle, some require an activator - which bothers me as I feel it should stay on the side of Semi-Perm.....or not. The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration, which begins the difference between semi and demi permanent colors.
In order to understand why the BOXED HAIR COLOR Kits do not work, it is necessary to thoroughly understand 'what' : Semi....Demi....and Permanent Hair color is. So many of you will purchase one of the boxes that claims to "shampoo out in 8-10 washes and find out it doesn't. you wonder 'why'.... so many of you figure you must have done something wrong when you applied it, when in fact you are "set up to fail" to begin with by companies that truly do not give a damn by turning out a product that does not and could not work in a million years.





3} Demi Permanent Hair Color
 The #1 and most important difference between Semi & Demi is..............Demi is when you begin using Developer. Semi = THERE IS NO DEVELOPER, they are sometimes calling it "Direct Dye" even though that is not really an appropriate name.

The newest classification Demi permanent is also called ''deposit only'' and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufacturers which is 100% incorrect. It is similar to semi, but more long lasting. Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. Honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.
I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses 3 to 15 Volume is Demi-Permanent. Which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's and any hair that needs to be strengthened- colored- add depth to and most importantly SHINE. Wella's Color Touch line gives hair soooo much shine you will be dancing on the furniture after you use it. It is my number 1 line of hair color out of every line and every category.

MAKE IT YOUR FAVORITE  LINE AS WELL> 

I RECOMMEND EVERYONE TRY IT 

AT LEAST ONCE!

With those numbers of developer, the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening.
I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:

• strength
• shine
• illusion of thickness
• reduce frizz & tangles.....just try it once, you have nothing to lose.

IF YOU HAVE lots of gray : the perfect manner in which to color the hair is to use Wella Koleston Perfect on the base and Wella Color Touch on the Lengths......I cannot wait for you to try this! If you need a conversion of your formula - call me I will give you one

This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and is ideal for covering un-pigmented hair, refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.
By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content.

 In recent years, many top colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date... I have tested most every line aned this line is the single best line of hair color in the world currently HANDS DOWN !

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR 


Permanent hair color is mixed with developer ( hydrogen peroxide) @ 20 Volume and above and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs. It is used to match,lighten and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color products generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide. The single best line that exists on planet earth is Well'a Koleston Perfect . . . I have seen this line cover the toughest of tough gray hair to the most gentle of gentle colors.......all with grace, and shine.....


The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors, which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules . These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out and that is why this is considered Permanent color.You have a line of demarcation on the hair once one uses this type of hair color and so it is referred to as PERMANENT HAIR COLOR.

Now here is a chart I used a lot when I was doing hair I would show it to clients if they were really confused about which color they wanted....I would ask them to just point to one or 2 colors that they loved. Maybe all of you can also use this chart to try to figure out which way you want to go with your hair color as well.......

Now if you use permanent hair color and you make a mistake I just want you to know that I can solve almost every single problem there is with hair color ...and as big as a sentence as that is I am very confidant I can back it up....so I don't want you to worry if you are considering becoming a Crib Colorist for the first time.... I am here for you.... We have a $49. EMERGENCY Help Phone Call ......if you have just come out of a Salon and your hair is:

• Green
• Blue
• Gray AND NOT THE "good gray"
• ORANGE
• YELLOW
• Etc................its the ER FOR HAIR  
•  

There is now an emergency help phone call Item you may purchase in the store. I would hope it would not be any of my Crib colorist Militia - but maybe some of you new to Killerstrands......Its called ER FOR HAIR - A 911 Service for any and all hair color disasters   

Yes. we have hair color removers and all sorts of tricks that I have accumulated over the course of the last 17 years and I can help everyone with almost every problem or question there is in regards to hair coloring. But, in order to avoid having to use that bag of tricks for all the various problems that permanent hair color seems to grow, I highly recommend that each and every one of you take the suggestion I have made and read the Blog Cover to cover....because

IF
YOU
DO.........................
THEN 
YOU 
WILL 
HELP
ELIMINATE
A 
WHOLE 
LOT 
OF 
HEADACHES 
FOR 
YOU 
AND 
ME 
IN 
THE 
FUTURE 
which 
MAKES 
for 
a
Lot 
CALMER 
AND 
SWEETER 
LIFESTYLE

KC

please...............


 read 


the


 Blog

Difference Between Demi Permanent & Permanent Hair Color

I feel everyone gets confused with the difference between Demi-Permanent Hair Color & Permanent color....in today's marketplace.

I could tell you technically what:

•  Temporary, 
• Semi Permanent, 
• Demi &
• Permanent Hair Color is...

BUT, the hair color manufacturers don't go by what is technically correct.
We kind of throw 'Temporary Hair Color' out, because that is just spray in hair color that comes out completely with shampoo, no one really uses that, except on movie sets.

They have done Test studies on the public's perception of what they think....." Demi-Permanent hair color" is. . .  opposed to Permanent Hair color.  Something like 85% of you would prefer to color your hair with Demi-Permanent hair color OVER Permanent Hair Color.

I want to show you something to teach you what marketing by these companies do to your shopping habits.


Semi - Permanent Hair color is the only one that does NOT use developer. 
Therefore Semi-Permanent Hair Color is the one and only type of hair color that does NOT leave a line of demarcation. 
If you don't use developer, you do not create a line of demarcation  . . . which is that line where the virgin hair color and the NEW hair color 'meet'. Got that? That's important to understand to keep going.

Once you begin mixing developer with the Hair Color, it alters the virgin hair & that line of demarcation --even if you only use 3Volume. even if its only 1 Volume ! If you don't use developer, which is that little bottle of white liquid, there will be no permanent line of demarcation.

What developer does (even 3 Volume) when applied to the hair is open the cuticle in order for the new color molecules to go in and change the present ones to the new color - then during the processing it then makes the cuticle close and lock the new color in the hair...so that is what makes the action of the hair color change and stay vibrant. Using ZERO developer only colors the outside of the strands, the color never gets inside, therefore never releasing any of your natural tint.....and therefore not creating any line of demarcation.

So many of you say to me you want to begin with Demi-Permanent Hair Color......and then you will move up to permanent. The way things have gotten all out-of-whack is - -  as long as you are mixing developer with hair color of ANY Volume, that.... makes..... it...... "permanent hair color" because it makes that line of demarcation. Even though these companies print "demi-permanent" on the box, it simply is not true. 

I think many of you believe that  Demi- Permanent Hair color (once you apply it) will temporarily change your hair color to that swatch of hair Color that you chose and then after a few weeks your hair will go back to your own virgin hair color. 
That is not at ALL, what will happen, I'm sorry to say.
Once hair color that has been mixed with developer has been applied to your virgin or non-virgin hair it will be altered FOREVER !
 I just want you all to learn the correct and honest way that both professional and non-professional Hair Color works. I think you are owed that, so at least I hope my explanation makes sense. If not please ask questions and I will answer.











Here are our Developers

 Killer  Chemist
                                                                                                                

Hair Color Magic ...the Smoke & Mirrors We Use to Give The Illusion Of Magic

How exactly does the "Lift & Deposit" chemical reaction in permanent hair color work?

A question was posed on the previous Post about this, which I felt warranted its own POST. Good question =(equals) Post is kind of how it works here in the Killer Strands Land of Hair Care.
All permanent hair coloring works the same. Which I would like you all to understand, especially in the ongoing debate of "Professional Hair Color versus 'Public' Hair Color" and the difference between them. Some of the licensed Hair Stylists want you to believe there is a huge difference in the products you can purchase at Sally's and the ones "we" licensed ... Board certified Professionals purchase. Now, available in the Killer Strands Store. 

Just so you know, as I was readying to launch the new Killer Strands store, the Publicity Release went out announcing that Wella would be soon selling their professional color to the public, the same way they do in every other country in the world.
They like you to believe that, you ...the public, don't have the talent or education to use Professional hair color, that it takes a year of schooling to be able to use it properly.
Well, you should know me by now... and I, of course, would like to blow the top off of that stupid theory. . . I would make a 'conservative' guess that 80 %-90% of all Cosmetology students are not even taught practical hair color education when they go to school ... you know what they teach them? How to pass the State Board Tests, in order to get your license. Which to me and to the Vidal Sassoon Academy's --> is TOTALLY ridiculous. State Board Tests are so antiquated, they test for your ability to perform finger waving 'speed' and roller setting swiftness as if that is how we all wear our hair on a daily basis. I am not kidding, it is completely and utterly ridiculous the testing they put you through to have a license here in the state of California, and am told California is the hardest 'Board' test in the union {and you wonder why the last cut/color you got was horrific}.


Vidal Sassoon where I attended, did not teach passing the state board Test (you were left to your own devices to figure that out) they taught Hair Color Theory ...Hair color application, Hair Color Formulation, Hair cutting theory & Hair cutting practice....there is a reason it is referred to as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" -- it truly deserves it. But...such a very small percentage of the millions of Hair Stylists out there have attended either of the 2 schools (1 in LA & 1 in London - period)- - it leaves the majority of Cosmetologists ; untrained and left to their own devices to learn on poor unsuspecting clients. Yes, that is where they learn - - - on YOU. When I finally figured that out, I was terrified for the 'client'. What the solution to this is - - - is finally surfacing, various Hair Color Companies are starting their own "specialty" Hair Academy's. I have heard Aveda, Paul Mitchell & now Redken are the first with sporadic academies popping up around the country. The smart companies are hiring 'ex' Sassoon-heads to build their schools around and to know "how" - "what" and "where" to do this successfully. No one will ever have the brilliance and finesse of a Sassoon Academy....until you have been engrossed in one - - you won't know what you are missing. It was one of the smarter moves I've ever made...it truly has stayed ingrained in me for the


last 16 years.
 
Since viewing the problems of unqualified Stylists, from different angles, I try to remain semi - compassionate to all sides of the story -- but its hard. I'm so driven, that I will go to any lengths to get the proper training I need for a certain purpose, I don't understand why everyone can't be that way. Alas, it just is not always possible for everyone to have the fortunate situation I had, in growing up 30 miles from the 1 Vidal Sassoon Academy in America.
But, there are books, there are tapes, there are DVD's - Videos, U-TUBE - - there are always, some form of advanced hair education going on all over the country. . . ALWAYS. Use it, invest in yourself & your talent, it will pay you back, I promise...having a full book of clients is a wonderful thing.

The difference between Professional Hair Color & "public" Hair Color (for lack of a better word) ......is ......"quality" yep, that's it. Which is why when you get your hair done by a professional - - you wonder...." why, does it not look this good when I do it myself" ? ? Its the quality of pigments in that tube of color,the quality of ingredients that provide both SHINE & Vivid color, its the quality of Developer - that I even call "premium" Developer that is different. Remember there is no other time that the hair cuticle is open; allowing lipids, and conditioners of all types to get into the strand of hair, than with the Permanent Hair Color process. But, the actual "process of how" they both work ("professional" and "public" hair color) is exactly the same.
There is no reason on this planet that if you understand both the:

• Level System of Hair Color and
• Color Theory (related to Hair)

you cannot color your hair with professional hair color - at home - successfully. There is no secret, there is no trick, no talent we learn as Licensed hair Stylists that you don't have access to. I just want that to be CRYSTAL CLEAR to everyone, because it is not fair that the people at home are not allowed to have access to better quality hair color. So many of the stories I hear are " I have tried every hair stylist in my town and every single one has destroyed my hair" - I want to take back control of my own hair color and learn how to do it myself.

You know what my argument is when a licensed hair stylist starts to get in my face about this? I say: at least I teach the Level System and Color Theory - in going to Sally's they can buy anything without teaching them a thing, and 9 times out of 10 point them in the wrong direction. Hundreds of millions of women/men go to Sally's Beauty Supply every single week and they are mis-guided by uneducated, uncaring individuals that CAUSE most of the Color Correction cases we Colorists see on a weekly basis. Both, Sally's & Boxed Hair Color Kits are the 2 main "causes" of most Hair Color Disasters across the USA. Its an eye opening experience to have a hair Blog and Group such that I have, the privilege of owning these has opened my eyes to what is going on nationwide ... not just here in my little corner of the country. Once people started writing in to me from every state, I realized the problem was a whole Helluva lot bigger than I ever realized. Someone needs to help all these people have some decent education on how to properly care for their hairs health and their hair color.
Its not a matter of the education not being there, its a matter of the 'wall' put up between Hair Stylist and Hair Client. With the Stylist acting like they have some "other worldly" powers over hair, that they are keeping secret...and will disperse a little bit at a time, but only if you keep coming back to them as a good client should... I cannot say it loud enough: R-I-D-I-C-U-L-O-U-S .
Of course, I don't mean every Stylist...but just today on one of the most recent "comments" a new reader left, here is the Comment:

Hi! 
My hairstylist uses low "natural enzymes" in the place of developer, but she refuses to tell me anything more about it, or where to find it. Go figure... She also says that she uses color with low ammonia to color my hair.
My hair is super-soft and almost damage free and I was wondering if you know anything about these enzymes?
here is my answer:
anonymous, Nope, have no idea what she is referring to. I can honestly say out of 10,000 Heads of Hair I have worked on ... 95% of them had super-soft and damage-free hair.
Hair Color (done correctly) can be a wonderful thing and creates absolutely NO damage to hair. I have said over and over that the way hair color works in todays upper echelon is to:
>> strengthen
>> add body and the best trait of all:
>> it adds tons of shine
I don't believe she used any special "enzymes" to color your hair, I believe it is one more hair stylist perpetuating the unnecessary wall & shut down of communication that has gone up between hair stylist and client, that besides being absolutely ridiculous is just one more show of the paranoid insecurities that most hair stylists possess. You most likely have great hair to begin with...
& she enriches it with a top hair color.... that is not a tough task.
In my world that is the "norm", not the rarity that many of you think.
I have been working on a post trying to explain to people if a color "claims" it has no ammonia, then it uses a substitute ingredient that does the exact same thing as ammonia.
So why does that make it a better hair color to you?
When it still does the exact same thing?
MAKES ZERO SENSE.
All permanent hair color uses the exact SAME TECHNOLOGY....there is no NEW technology for COLORING HAIR.
When there is, I promise I will announce it here.
KC

Now, the shine, the vividness, the pigment are all better with professional hair color. The technology is absolutely NO DIFFERENT. There is not one thing different we do as professional's. What we have is more experience on working on all types of hair....you - - you have experience with your own head of hair and maybe your sisters or best friends. But not on all types and textures of hair...which still doesn't make us an expert. I never feel like I have learned everything about hair color, nor will I ever. The best part about doing your own hair color is just that....its your own, you are experienced with all of its little traits, and flaws. I can ask hair color clients if their hair -- "takes" color well or not. 8 out 10 will know the answer to that question, which tells a colorist a LOT about your hair. That is the porosity of your hair and that little piece of information can save you from having a color disaster, if you are new to learning hair color.
Now the way permanent hair color works. Permanent hair color has 2 aspects:

• lightening/lifting and
• penetrating/depositing

Lightening comes from 2 key ingredients:

• ammonia ( or other catalyst) : in the cream
• hydrogen peroxide: in the developer

Ammonia is a critical ingredient in permanent hair color. Permanent Hair Color ALWAYS contains ammonia (or another catalyst that does the exact same thing) {remember this point}. The issue with 'ammonia' is the same issue as 'preservatives'... too much of it is unnecessarily damaging, but without ammonia, penetration, lightening and dye development would not occur. It, or something like it, is essential. Manufacturers of professional products strive to put just enough--- and not too much---ammonia-- in their permanent hair color.
Now if a hair color says its "ammonia-free" then it will have an ammonia substitute. Therefore, if it has an ammonia substitute, which does the exact same thing, then all it is doing is tricking the consumer. Get it? Its still doing the exact same thing only with a different ingredient ( MEA; monoethanolamine is the one I know of, there are others).
Ammonia is an alkali: it swells the hair shaft, promoting penetration. It is also a catalyst and its primary purpose: to facilitate lightening by releasing oxygen, supplied by the developer, to OXIDIZE natural pigment. Ammonia, creates the necessary alkalinity for the development of permanent dyes; permanent haircoloring is always alkaline in pH.
Ammonia is not in the developer which so many people think, it is in the tube of hair color with the dyes. Lighter levels contain more ammonia than darker levels, in order to provide more lightening capability. Many of you have only dealt with 1 color range, but as a professional we deal with every range....clients range from level 1 to 12, which we may be dealing with in the same hour as clients come in all sizes and colors.
The higher the level , the more ammonia (lift) and the less pigment (deposit). The lower the level, the less lift and the greater the deposit. That's why a medium blond will cover gray better than a very light blond. It is also why a medium brown will not lift as many levels as a high-lift tint.

High-Lift colors contain the most ammonia, to have the most aggressive and extended lift cycles. That much ammonia in darker levels , however would be overkill. Ammonia is calibrated by levels in all professional products.
Another critical component of permanent hair coloring is hydrogen peroxide. The developers for permanent hair coloring products, (whether clear or cream) are hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen Peroxide is the oxidizer of permanent hair coloring, providing the oxygen for lightening of natural pigment, and for the development of artificial pigment. Permanent hair coloring is sometimes referred to as oxidative haircoloring. 

It is the hydrogen peroxide mixed with poorly formulated hair color in permanent hair coloring -- not the ammonia -- that causes oxidative hair damage and that ONLY happens when the Rules of the Level System are not followed. Otherwise you can have happy healthy hair - I promise you!

Top Colorists are aware of the damage created by excessively high developer volumes and use only that which is necessary.

The chemical shorthand for hydrogen peroxide is H2 O2 meaning 2 hydrogen atoms and 2 oxygen atoms. Higher volumes of hydrogen peroxide provide more oxygen for more extended lightening. Higher volumes create more lift and less deposit; lower volumes create less lift and greater deposit. This is why better gray coverage is achieved with 20 Volume rather than 40 volume.
 
Some strength of hydrogen peroxide has to be used in order to develop the dyes of permanent haircoloring. Just to get the 'dyes' to color the hair, an oxidizer has to be present. ( and peroxide all by itself won't lighten the hair, either - sometimes an email comes in with someone trying this....and I want to cringe...it needs to react with ammonia in order for efficient oxidation to occur.) peroxide,ammonia and the dyes all need each other to get the hair coloring to work properly and to its fullest.

When people start quoting these silly sayings like " no ammonia" or "low ammonia" hair color... I just quietly look at them and think......" you will be right back in to see me fix the mess you are going to make of your hair". Because they have no idea what "low ammonia" means ... I will ask them , " what does ammonia do to hair color ??? " Not one of them ever knows, in 16 years I have never once run into a 1 person that can answer that question. I just completely explained what ammonia does in the hair color process, just a few paragraphs up - the concept is difficult to understand I feel it took me a long time to really GET IT! 

 ? ? ? So if you don't know what ammonia does, why are you trying to eliminate it ? ? ? 

How do you know its bad? 

Personally if a hair color says anything about having "Low ammonia or No ammonia in it. . . I just turn and walk away, why? ? ? because I know how necessary it is for a perfect .... beautiful  ....head of hair color. 


In order for permanent hair color to work properly, it is a chemical reaction and ammonia is needed for the chemical reaction to take place properly. I have found that every single person that sits in my chair does not really care how it gets there . . . but what they want is a rich - - - gorgeous - - - vivid - - - - shiny - - - properly toned KNOCKOUT head of hair with Hair Color to match. As long as their hair is as healthy and as luxurious as I can possibly make it . . the ingredients I use to get it there are going to be the Top-of-the-Line for what I need to make that process take place. I doubt there is a person on the planet that wants orange or yellow hair, because their hair color says "no ammonia" on the box or tube. When hair reaches the proper color, the most beautiful wheat blond or the most yummy Matt (non-brassy) blond you have ever see then NO REPAIR has to take place - which adds to the processes the hair has to endure. Think about everything you are saying or thinking before pronouncing the big plans you may have for your hair. . .
Sit back and relax, I care for my clients hair as if it were my own or my childrens . . I now give all of that to you - - - as a gift.

KillerStrands the Blog ...........you are here
KillerStrands the Store

Becoming a Blond Bombshell Lives On . . .

 Wella's Koleston Perfect Line of Permanent Hair Color has gone through an entire revamp of the line....new pretty Peacock feather boxes, and a new science they refer to as:  TRILUXIV TECHNOLOGY, which separates the hair color process into 3 stages of the way the color works and imparts 69% MORE shine than hair without Wella hair color. Something I have been trying to impress on you all from Day 1 of the Blog. Wella reigns for imparting shine into the strands of many a bombshell . . .

What’s new?

• Koleston Perfect's new and improved formula for even more expressive color result
• More intensive, vibrant colors, with now even better color balance!
• The big selection of color with exciting new nuances, where you surely can find the exact right nuance to fit you.
• Long-lasting. Especially in the reds range. Koleston Perfect Vibrant Reds now last even longer – up to 15%!
• Remarkable shine! What would you say to up to 69% more shine when compared with untreated hair?
• Unbelievably! Not just better, but also more gentle! New Koleston Perfect is now even more gentle for a worry-free color with no regrets

Also there are 2 completely new Tonal Categories :  /17  and   /38. 
The following Testimonial is the third positive response + PLUS my own,  I have had to this new tone line by Wella in their brand new /38 Line of Permanent Hair Color :

"Just wanted to thank you for the /38 series color suggestion.  I get more compliments on my hair color now.  The guy that just cut my hair even said he liked it and I did a great job.  Thanks again.  Heidi  "

The 2 new Tonal Categories are /38 - Gold Pearl  and  /17-Ash Brown
Hopefully we will be able to get our newly MIA; IT guy Andre to "bring-in" Color Samplers for you...they both are nothing short of scrumptious - in my humble opinion....I love them both and they are what the line was missing.

In /17 Ash Brown
there are only two:

9/17
7/17

which means for most Colorists they are trying to save money & space for us. Why...You ask?
Because if you mix 1 ounce of 9/17 with 1 ounce of 7/17 you have created 2 ounces of 8/17.
Much easier than carrying 3 Colors in the cupboard, takes up less space to carry 2 colors than it does 3.
This way we have access to all 3 Colors now, don't we?

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Now we have in the brand new /38 Tonal Family called: Gold Pearl, a beautiful color - although normally I would stay very far away from anything with the word "gold" in it. Hair already has too much brass and gold undertones in it, we do not need to be adding more. Although this is an exception, I can see some sort of violet undertone in this color although they have not stated anywhere what the undertones are.. I mean a /3 is a Neutral Gold and an /8 is a Pearl...yet I still can see a very mild violet undertone which is the undertone you want. All 4 colors are beautiful I hope they add them to Color Touch, what a nice present that would be.

 I spent an hour trying to find a photo of a hair color that was EXACTLY depicting the /38 Tonal Family and finally found the perfect one - to me its a beigey-pearl . . . . which is a very hard color to find and an even harder color to achieve with hair color. Remember a lot of it (unfortunately) has to do with the existing pigment in your hair as to whether you will achieve the proper color.

As Hair Color technology improves with each and every new year, they will come closer and closer to matching the beautiful shades, no matter what your existing pigment is. I sure hope to be around for those days.....

 How Totally Unique are these Drips of Copper at the ends of Platinum - H..E..A..V..E..N..L..Y

Democrat & Republican of Hair Color: Permanent Hair Color > Holds Down 2 Opposing Jobs

Lift & Deposit ; 2 Jobs of Permanent Hair Color

Must Work Together For Good of Hair,

Come From Completely Different Camps

Permanent hair color, or single-process hair color is designed to permanently alter the natural pigment of hair. Oxidative color, henna, metallic, compound dyes and bleach are all considered permanent tints.











Today we are talking about permanent hair color. The only category of all the hair colors that performs 2 actions - while its on the hair - at the same time! With Semi & Demi Permanent hair color they have one job only and that is to "deposit" color onto the hair strand, which is why they do not lighten the hair.
There are 2 'jobs' that PERMANENT hair color is capable of performing

• lifting &
• depositing

It is also called subtraction of the hairs natural pigment and addition of synthetic pigment.

Permanent color is exactly as it sounds - it penetrates into the cortex of the hair and becomes "locked" in through a process called oxidation. Permanent color forever alters the texture of the hair, causing it to swell ( giving it body!)- which is why if you have thin hair, coloring it with permanent color makes you feel like you have a whole new head of hair. This is the #1 reason I color my own, and many like me do - I color mine the same color it is, I have no gray, I color it for the body... I have always felt my hair is in better condition since it has been colored with the top of the line professional hair colors, which is why I have made them available to you. If you are a fanatic about your hair, this is your web site.



Join the Group http://groupspaces.com/KillerstrandsHairClinic/ to view the color charts up close, drop me an email with PRODUCT ORDER in the subject line at: Killerstrands@gmail.com - for more info.
Permanent color means the color lasts until it grows out or is cut off. Once hair is permanently tinted is cannot be made "untinted". (unless of course you go through the Decolorization method http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/decolorization%20of%20hair )
Keep in mind if you are lightening, you are subtracting (-) or lifting color.
Lifting: Removing, subtracting, or lightening color from the hair. The lightening ability of hair color .... or the amount a certain volume of developer will oxidize

Depositing: adding color to the hair. the portion of single process oxidation when the color enters the cortex of the hair.
However in permanent hair coloring (not using bleach), there is also a stage that deposits color pigment into the hair. If you are depositing , you are adding(+), therefore, when you both lighten and deposit color, you are doing both subtraction and addition! This tint service is the highest in demand, BUT . . . it is the most difficult one to do correctly. Still, it is so much easier using the LEVEL SYSTEM which is why I have been trying to cram that into your head...the Level system will conquer so many issues for so many of you, just trust me and keep going over it , it took me over a year to thoroughly understand it. Just keep reading and using it - even if it seems foreign to you, I promise one day it will 'click' but you MUST keep reviewing it.

I realize we don't want to get too technical, nor into too much chemistry-head mumbo jumbo - but . . . in order to understand this we have to graze across those subjects for a bit, bear with me.

Permanent haircoloring products are designed to permanently alter the natural pigmentation of the hair. That line of demarcation appears when using this category of hair color,  demi's also produce this line, semis don't. The most distinctive point to permanent hair color is that it has the ability to "lighten" your natural hair because it is lifting the natural pigment out of the hair strand when applied. Ammonia (in the tube) combines with hydrogen peroxide in the developer to lighten the natural pigment, therefore making the change Permanent. With this technology you are able to go from a Level 7 to a Level 10 with a tube of color, NOT BLEACH. Many people like this idea, although this is where one will run into the "yellows" many times, if not performed correctly.







Permanent hair color has 2 tricks...2 jobs....2 missions : Lightening and permanent depositing, all permanent hair coloring products work about the same. The lift comes from the combination of the ammonia (or other catalyst) in the tube of color and the hydrogen peroxide in the developer that creates the lift.

Ammonia is a critical ingredient in permanent hair color and it must contain ammonia or an ingredient that does the exact same thing, or what we are trying to do with it, will not happen, and that is cosmetic chemistry ladies and gents. The problem comes from ammonia when too much ammonia is used, it can be damaging, at the same time...without ammonia -- deposit and lifting would not occur. Ammonia, or another product that is just like it - is essential.

"Ammonia" is picked on as the bad-guy in hair damage, which I can only deduct comes from its offensive 'odor' and again from its "name".

That is just not the case, almost every cosmetic chemist would agree with me I'm certain. Yes, unfortunately when breaks in some of the disulfide cross-links cause oxidative hair damage (damage from any permanent hair color), Stylists get the 'cause' mixed-up and think it comes from the ammonia, because that is what they smell as does the client....contrary to that misconception, the damage comes from the peroxide.

The problem being, in order to get that gorgeous beautiful "un-yellow" blond, you need all three components. As I have said before the best answer to this problem? . . . having a highly trained Stylist that knows the precise amount of the 3 ingredients ... not too much of one or too little of the other.. which takes years of experience.

When some say they don't want "ammonia" in their hair color, I scratch my head.... Its the exact same problem I find with the public and preservatives. People say they don't want preservatives in their products, but if they really understood the chemistry of it all, I am sure they would not say that. Preservatives keep your cosmetics, safe. Same with Ammonia in this respect, permanent hair color must have it - and it must be added in a precise amount. Manufacturers strive to put just enough and not too much ammonia in their hair color - I feel that is the key to which hair color works the best opposed to the slackers.

Alkaline substance: an ingredient hair color that has a pH greater than 7, causing the cuticle to open and permanent color to enter the cortex

Ammonia is an alkali; is SWELLS the hair shaft which helps with deposit/penetration. It is also a catalyst who's primary purpose is to facilitate the lightening by releasing oxygen -- supplied by the developer, to oxidize the (virgin) natural pigment. Ammonia, lastly creates the necessary alkalinity for the development of permanent color.

Permanent haircoloring is always alkaline in pH.

Alkaline substance is usually, but not always, ammonia. It causes the cuticle to swell, allowing for deposit of the color pigment molecules & promoting lightening action. You need ammonia to swell the hair shaft.

The refined color products available today use lower amounts of ammonia, making for little or no damage and less fading. They also enable the cuticle to close completely after the color process. The ammonia is not a free ammonia; its a derivative. You absolutely need it to open the cuticle. Most of the color products today have a very refined ammonia content that will readily wash from the hair with water, so the next time you hear 'ammonia' - I would suggest not making a "name" judgement {based purely on the name}. Its a much more complicated procedure than just the name.

The ammonia of a haircoloring product is not in the developer; it is in the tube with the dyes.

Lighter levels contain more ammonia than lower levels in order to provide more lightening capability. All Colorists know that distinctive WHIFF after opening a Level 12 Ash in the color room.

The higher the Level of color, the more LIFT and the less DEPOSIT. the Lower the Level, the less the lift and the Greater the deposit.

I'd like you all to be thinking about the following:

Most of you have seen Peroxide, or Developer, as I like to call it.

10 Volume, 20 Volume, 30 Volume & 40 Volume - are the 4 main 'boys'

6 Volume 17 Volume 25 Volume and on and on have been tacked on lately. The Volume of peroxide does not determine how strong it is, what the volume signifies is: "How Long It Will Lift" . Another point where I get frustrated is when people say to me they don't want to use 40 Volume, only 20. Well, its (virtually) the same liquid only one "lifts longer" than the other.
The higher the Volume the longer and more the Lift! So using 40 volume many times will help prevent the dreaded "yellows" or "brassiness" you see so much, again it is an art. Buy a doll's head with your hair color to practice on or I can sell you hair swatches of your own hair color to test with. Again make it a hobby, as soon as you get down, you will be doing your hair like the pros! Being sure to put in the proper amount of "practice time".

From just our Google Group and the comments posted in there, it seems to be the single most common problem for Crib Colorists the 'too yellow' problem . Lightening is the most common form of hair color we have so far, and why would there be too many yellows or problems with yellow?
4 answers:

#1.) Not leaving the color on long enough (or needing a 2nd application)

#2.) Using too low volume peroxide

#3.) Using the wrong tool for the job....Using high lift blond tint when bleach (lightener) was needed.

#4.) Not using a light enough tint/color/dye



Hate to say this but I have always felt the manufacturers are off about 1 level....they're never quite as light as you want, very very rarely will it be 'too light', that is a very hard problem to have and a super easy problem to fix.

Keep this list of 4 solutions to "yellow" hair.



To try when this problem lands on your head.

More on permanent color coming.