Knowing the 4 Distinct TYPES of Hair Color is Super Important... Or You May Get In Trouble When Choosing

 I have a number of Consultations going on at any one time and you will be surprised why I do them really. I like to keep very up-to-date with what everyone is or is NOT understanding as far as my hair color Education Posts on this Blog go.  Therefore when I go through a couple Consultations and I listen to what the people do and do not understand it makes me try to RE-TEACH a subject so that maybe if I approach it from a different angle then maybe more of you will understand it better and more clearly.

For example the "types of Hair Color"
 - right when I feel I have taught it from every single angle possible a person in my  consultation explains how they don't understand what the difference is between Semi-Permanent hair color and Demi-permanent and that could create a gigantic problem that I certainly don't want to be the cause of.....
So when I repeat subjects it is because I want you to read this description from another angle....

1} Temporary Hair Color
Temporary color is what many of you use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... these color molecules may be removed by shampooing...
This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft.
Temporary hair colors are available in a variety of colors & products such as:

• color rinses applied weekly to add color
• colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
• hair mascara
• special effects
• color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : like Boost & BURST

2} Semi Permanent Hair color 
 Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. It lasts only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo. This is exactly what BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos and conditioners are....

Many Semi-Perm colors can be used straight out of the bottle, some require an activator - which bothers me as I feel it should stay on the side of Semi-Perm.....or not. The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration, which begins the difference between semi and demi permanent colors.
In order to understand why the BOXED HAIR COLOR Kits do not work, it is necessary to thoroughly understand 'what' : Semi....Demi....and Permanent Hair color is. So many of you will purchase one of the boxes that claims to "shampoo out in 8-10 washes and find out it doesn't. you wonder 'why'.... so many of you figure you must have done something wrong when you applied it, when in fact you are "set up to fail" to begin with by companies that truly do not give a damn by turning out a product that does not and could not work in a million years.





3} Demi Permanent Hair Color
 The #1 and most important difference between Semi & Demi is..............Demi is when you begin using Developer. Semi = THERE IS NO DEVELOPER, they are sometimes calling it "Direct Dye" even though that is not really an appropriate name.

The newest classification Demi permanent is also called ''deposit only'' and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufacturers which is 100% incorrect. It is similar to semi, but more long lasting. Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. Honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.
I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses 3 to 15 Volume is Demi-Permanent. Which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's and any hair that needs to be strengthened- colored- add depth to and most importantly SHINE. Wella's Color Touch line gives hair soooo much shine you will be dancing on the furniture after you use it. It is my number 1 line of hair color out of every line and every category.

MAKE IT YOUR FAVORITE  LINE AS WELL> 

I RECOMMEND EVERYONE TRY IT 

AT LEAST ONCE!

With those numbers of developer, the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening.
I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:

• strength
• shine
• illusion of thickness
• reduce frizz & tangles.....just try it once, you have nothing to lose.

IF YOU HAVE lots of gray : the perfect manner in which to color the hair is to use Wella Koleston Perfect on the base and Wella Color Touch on the Lengths......I cannot wait for you to try this! If you need a conversion of your formula - call me I will give you one

This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and is ideal for covering un-pigmented hair, refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.
By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content.

 In recent years, many top colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date... I have tested most every line aned this line is the single best line of hair color in the world currently HANDS DOWN !

PERMANENT HAIR COLOR 


Permanent hair color is mixed with developer ( hydrogen peroxide) @ 20 Volume and above and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs. It is used to match,lighten and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color products generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide. The single best line that exists on planet earth is Well'a Koleston Perfect . . . I have seen this line cover the toughest of tough gray hair to the most gentle of gentle colors.......all with grace, and shine.....


The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors, which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules . These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out and that is why this is considered Permanent color.You have a line of demarcation on the hair once one uses this type of hair color and so it is referred to as PERMANENT HAIR COLOR.

Now here is a chart I used a lot when I was doing hair I would show it to clients if they were really confused about which color they wanted....I would ask them to just point to one or 2 colors that they loved. Maybe all of you can also use this chart to try to figure out which way you want to go with your hair color as well.......

Now if you use permanent hair color and you make a mistake I just want you to know that I can solve almost every single problem there is with hair color ...and as big as a sentence as that is I am very confidant I can back it up....so I don't want you to worry if you are considering becoming a Crib Colorist for the first time.... I am here for you.... We have a $49. EMERGENCY Help Phone Call ......if you have just come out of a Salon and your hair is:

• Green
• Blue
• Gray AND NOT THE "good gray"
• ORANGE
• YELLOW
• Etc................its the ER FOR HAIR  
•  

There is now an emergency help phone call Item you may purchase in the store. I would hope it would not be any of my Crib colorist Militia - but maybe some of you new to Killerstrands......Its called ER FOR HAIR - A 911 Service for any and all hair color disasters   

Yes. we have hair color removers and all sorts of tricks that I have accumulated over the course of the last 17 years and I can help everyone with almost every problem or question there is in regards to hair coloring. But, in order to avoid having to use that bag of tricks for all the various problems that permanent hair color seems to grow, I highly recommend that each and every one of you take the suggestion I have made and read the Blog Cover to cover....because

IF
YOU
DO.........................
THEN 
YOU 
WILL 
HELP
ELIMINATE
A 
WHOLE 
LOT 
OF 
HEADACHES 
FOR 
YOU 
AND 
ME 
IN 
THE 
FUTURE 
which 
MAKES 
for 
a
Lot 
CALMER 
AND 
SWEETER 
LIFESTYLE

KC

please...............


 read 


the


 Blog

Change Your Hair Color............... Or Not ?!

It really shouldn't be scary to change hair color, they used to say something at Sassoon that will probably give most of you a complete and utter heart attack, they would say, why not change your color or cut your hair, it really is "only hair".

ONLY HAIR. . . .  Are they fricken' kidding, my hair is EVERYTHING to me. To that date is how long I had thought that way.....so chalk it up to my maturing, becoming ill, and after over 14,000 Heads of Hair I finally have come around to that way of thinking...so that is not how I expect you to think. But just think about that sentence every once in a while. 

It is truly .... "only hair".

At first I couldn't believe they could say such a thing but the more they said it the more it made sense to me.....it really is 'just hair'. What could really go wrong if you change your color ? Your family will still love you, your friends will still love you.........and strangers ..... strangers, don't even know you have changed it, so you need not care about those unknown -- AT ALL ! I've had a few  in the group  lately who are very hesitant about changing their hair color....I know I felt that way at some point, but it was so long ago I don't remember the feeling. I slowly learned that with the technology we have in today's marketplace and as long as you have some cash.... & know a good colorist - - YOU CAN BE ANY COLOR ON THE PLANET...! any color on earth is pretty much achievable....and then you CAN go back again if you don't like it. Remember tho ...... this is all on the theory that you have a fat wallet !

This Blog is just about 7 years old! 

Yep, I started way back with my mission to teach women and men how to care for their hair HONESTLY, CORRECTLY and with SCIENCE as the basis behind all of the suggestions and education I teach you.

 Please I promise you my own products work better than any hair conditioners / repairers than any you have ever tried. That is a bold statement, but after 7 years and hundreds of comments and emails I receive each week (I read every single one - btw!) -- I have developed that confidence.  I had a few college girls really love THRIVEN, so I decided it was time to re-tell some of my basic stories.

My number 1 suggestion for people writing me and wanting help is:

#1 Start reading at the beginning of this Blog -- read all Posts - { it really doesn't take that long }.

 I have heard from well over 1000 people...........
that, it was the single best piece of advice they had ever received regarding the HEALTH and HAIR COLOR of their hair.....in their life. My heart warms every single time I hear that.
We have customers from 18 - 88 our products appeal to all ages and all types of hair! 

 Remember you have 3 solid categories of hair color to choose from and those all have different results, everyone knows about permanent color here is some "current" information about what color does and is about TODAY :

Semi-Permanent : such as the Professional lines of Hair Color (we finally found 2 professional lines in this category that are just a knock-out!) - this type of color is so different because you do NOT mix it with any developer. That way it does NOT make a line of demarcation, they TRULY wash all they way out. If there is a box or package that says it is Semi-Permanent and there are 2 bottles and 1 of them has either white or clear liquid. It is a downright LIE. There are thousands of them that advertise it is SEMI permanent but then add developer. Once you add developer, the hair shaft WILL be changed, so I don't have to prove it. SCIENCE DOES! ! ! ! ( watch for those in the BOXED HAIR COLOR aisle.....so watch out closely for it.

Semi-Permanent Hair Color

• Schwartzkopf MOUSSE - in 21 Colors - apply very quickly, covers gray roots for 2 weeks!

Demi-Permanent Hair Color: the next step up ...this Color has little to LOW ammonia, it is used with 3 to 15 Volume Developer....and any Volume in-between, it does make a line of Demarcation. A very light one, but 'one' . . . . just the same. Companies lead you to believe the opposite. This category is GREAT for 1st time Gray coverage ( up to 20%)...great for Toners and also for a little body. We carry the following Demi-Perm lines:

• Wella Illumina Hair Color (our most popular color line) - Use with 6, 10 and 13 Volume Developer from the Color Touch and Wella Koleston Perfect Lines . Newest most remarkable hair color by Wella which works a different way than any other hair color and produces a lot of shine by all reports coming in.
• Wella Color Touch -  Wella's long time Demi-Permanent line of color, use 6 & 13 Volume. A large 122 color catalog.
  
• Schwarzkopf VIVIANCE  - Demi-Permanent Hair Color

I believe all of these colors should be processed a full hour  for proper color absorption, maximum gray coverage and for the most extreme and long-lasting SHINE you've seen !

Always finish with INTENSIVE, you will see what a truly effective product it is, after your 1st application!

St. Patricks Day is on its way . . . . . Green hair in some cases 'can' be beautiful ! ! !

KC
Killer Chemist

Fancy Meeting You Hair . . .

couple of Killerstrands monthly reminders...







just to keep you aware of what to avoid to help hair be strong & healthy...all 12 of these I have witnessed myself change in people when they have quit - their hair improves - substantially.



Just this week a long time client ( my closest,die hard clients still drive to my home - they refuse to give up on me)of mine quit smoking of about 25 years when she had booked some plastic surgery...so I decided to tell her again my theory on smoking and the health of hair, when she was NOT smoking. I have been watching her healthy hair go down the tube in the last few years See > though she had great hair for 47 years,it caught up to her, and when it did it moved very quickly. She quit 4 months ago and this appointment her hair was beautiful, healthy, shiny and full of luster AND her sides have grown in..I honestly think she has not returned to smoking because of the health change in her hair.

Which is terrific.













Just send me an email with "Product Order" in the Subject, I answer those first.
With every order comes a detailed color formulation work-up, I will help you calculate exactly what you need for your individual CRIB COLORIST formula.
The Color charts to all the lines will be posted this week-end, when asking for a color formulation work-up the one and only true way for me to help is for you to send me at least 2 photos of your hair up pretty close - I never realized how much the sense of touch and sight were imperative to color formulation - until I began doing it Online!
Once we determine what you need I get your zip code to calculate shipping charges, then send a "REQUEST FOR FUNDS" through PAY PAL, which has turned out to be the most simple - easy and Secure methods of web paying there is, everyone has loved it so far.
All my hair color comes with

• the appropriate developer/ Wella Koleston Perfect Permanent color- $16.00\ tube


• gloves / Wella Color Touch - Demi Permanent - $18.00\ tube


• tail comb (for parting) / Renbow Colorissimo - Ren Color - Crazy Color-$18./$16./$11.


• free sample of THRIVEN


• plastic cap / Redken Levitation Oil Bleach - $20.00 \ 1 Kit=2 apps. 2 Comes with 2 volumes/suggest: 20 vol. & 40 vol.

All other items can be quoted as well. . . . . MAGMA the COLORED bleach is available this is is the most amazing but expensive product...bleaches
and tones in 1 STEP!! There are reds & cool blonde's
ONLY so far.

CRIB COLORIST - Become a Home Hair Colorist the Professional Way

Color:

2/0 Darkest Brown 3/0 Dark Brown 4/0 Medium Brown 5/0 Light Brown 6/0 Dark Blond 7/0 Medium Blond 8/0 Light Blond 10/01 NA Natural Lightest Ash Blond 9/01 Natural Very Light Ash Blond 9/16 Very Light Ash Blond 7/1 Medium Ash Blond 5/1 Light Ash Brown 10/03 Lightest Beige blond 9/03 Very Light Beige Blond 9/3 Very Light golden Blond 7/3 Medium Golden Blond 5/3 Light Golden Blond 8/71 Frosty Light blond 7/71 Frosty Medium Blond 6/71 Frosty Dark blond 5/71 Frosty Light Brown 4/71 Frosty Medium Brown 6/35 Sand 9/36 Very Light Golden Violet blond



Color:





Color:

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color

This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:

• Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}


• growth spurt for hair


• off the chart SHINE


• solution for damaged strands


• Recipe for hair conditioner


• Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)

I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to





All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.


We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.


That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.


As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.


Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.


Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.


Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:

• greater penetration


• more deposit


• incredible Shine


• better coverage on gray


• natural appearance


• lasts longer


• more intensity


• better overall coverage

Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.


Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.


The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.


The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?


This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.

There are 2 choices of developer,

1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.

COLOR FOR CURL

?Being a curl queen will mean you have absorbed and use every rule, trick and secret known to man for the solution & smoothing of frizz everywhere. There are dozens of tricks in all of which I am in the process of revealing for you curly-heads everywhere.

This solution might seem a bit of a stretch for some but I know there will be many who already practice it yet found it out completely by accident. Its not something advertised NOR talked about much, which baffles me as to ‘why’ not ?!?! Killer Strands will be sure to ram it into the ground - into this blog and into you curly-heads ‘ears’ as often and frequently as possible . .
my personal favorite solution to the Frizzy’s?

Hair color, but not any hair color, so please don’t have the car engine running already! The Hair color that solves the Frizzy’s is made by WELLA and called COLOUR TOUCH. I was truly fortunate in my early training, having the most brilliant Colorist take me under her wing giving me a head start on my classmates and the rest of the world. At Sassoon (back in the day) we had the lovely advantage of experimenting, testing and playing with every single hair color product on the market with 1 Academy here in Santa Monica and the other in London between the 2 we sampled & tested all hair color on the market which I continue to do today. In all of my work over the years, I make it a habit to stay current and most definitely within hair it is vital.

Within my hair color expertise, I find it necessary to experiment with each and every new product that comes out as new technologies are developed constantly. Some are good and terrific new inventions and some are just plain stupid….this one is brilliant and it is a line of color that no one has come anywhere close to. This line of colour is what’s called Demi-Permanent, in other words it ‘does not lighten’ it tints hair the same level or darker. This line of colour works absolute miracles on curly/frizzy hair, the way its made /the level of developer it uses is truly a small miracle on your curls & Frizz. Now, how you are going to get this color, is another tricky issue, its not sold in stores and is made for the color professional exclusively.

The professional formula of Color Touch enriches hair with vibrant color and brilliant shine. Hair transforming keratin evens out the hair structure and makes it possible for the shine illuminating pigments of Color Touch to attach to the hair more easily. The result: up to 50% more vibrant color.

Natural wax conditions the hair to create brilliant shine and vibrant color. This means up to 50 % more shine on previously untreated hair.

The creamy consistency of the professional Color Touch formula allows for even distribution on the hair’s surface. Combined with the equalizing properties of the shine illuminating pigments, the end result shows brilliant shine and beautiful, rich color.
Liquid Hair Keratin evens out and balances damaged areas of the hair structure for more even color results as it adds strength and volume while building fullness, shine and beautiful, rich color.

Wella’s exclusive, patented Shine Reflex Pigments penetrate more evenly into the hair providing superior deposit, tonality and durability. The higher pigment density delivers vibrant, intense color coverage. Natural emollients condition and soften the hair leaving it feeling silky smooth while helping to improve and even out the color balance. The ammonia-free formula provides for a gentle conditioning process.

The thicker formula with improved creamy viscosity helps the color stay where it is placed when using a bottle or bowl and brush to apply. Creative techniques are now easier, too, because the color stays in place and there is a noticeable improvement in color absorption further enhancing even color results. The pleasing fragrance makes it a more pleasant hair color experience for the colorist and client as well. You can go to Wella’s website for a referral to a Salon in your Area or email me and we will get the 2 of you hooked up …PLEASE we’d love photo’s, you will not believe the shine this colour puts out, they have mildly reformulated it 2 times I know of – with each one – even better!