February 7, 2008

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color

This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:

  • Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}

  • growth spurt for hair

  • off the chart SHINE

  • solution for damaged strands

  • Recipe for hair conditioner

  • Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)

I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to

All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.

We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.

That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.

As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.

Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.

Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.

Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:

  • greater penetration

  • more deposit

  • incredible Shine

  • better coverage on gray

  • natural appearance

  • lasts longer

  • more intensity

  • better overall coverage

Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.

Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.

The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.

The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?

This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.

There are 2 choices of developer,
  1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
  2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.
10 comments on "What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In"
  1. Heya,

    Me again...

    Just a question...is the Idea of Color Touch similar to Shades EQ???

    BTW i just loooooooooove reading this entire series..it's like a guilty pleasure i visit the site now over and over LOOOL i get all excited and giggly inside when i see a new post LOOL (is that sad?) ....loooool THANK YOU for helping the WORLD have GORGEOUS HAIR !!!!!



  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

  3. Hey Dakota!

    Can I buy the tube and get that one year supply of developer at Sally Beauty? Or the does the Color Touch and the developer have to work together?

    -Vang :D

  4. When you purchase the color touch you MUST use the developer made for it, there are 2 strengths. Its part of the price.... you get a tube of color, the developer,gloves,1 application of after-treatment and a Tail comb...so its a full kit to complete your hair Color, only with the best color on the planet !
    I hope to make people happy with this ;)

  5. I am *so* thrilled to have stumbled upon your blog and am gobbling it up! THANK YOU for taking the time to share all of your amazing knowledge. Keep up the fabulous work!!!!!!!!!

  6. hello,

    i currently have some level 7-9 highlights in my hair...which is naturally a level 4. I'd like to put a semi/demi color in my hair similar to my natural hair color to conceal my roots. I'm away from home and won't be able to touch up the highlights until December. Do you suggest using a dark brown semi till then? although a demi is partially permanent, will it still wash out by then? Do you suggest using Wella's Color Touch although its demi? Any good natural-looking semi's out there?


  7. Reggie,
    The difference TRULY between Semi-permanents and Demi-permanents are ...Semi's do NOT use any developer - - - They strictly coat the hair with color.
    Which in the way they make them nowadays is a truly needed category of hair color the manufacturers are all forgetting.

    A lot of those darn Crap-In-A-Box Kits have taken the terms and totally trashed what they accurately are, so people don't truly understand what a semi permanent is.
    Its really not legal doing that, its the cause of thousands of people writing to me and asking how to fix the mess these "semi-permanents" (where they were instructed to add developer) kits make.
    Just wanted you to understand that clearly. . . .{and rant a little!}

    With Wella's Color Touch Demi- Permanents -- 'yes' you can either add 7 volume or 17 volume to them and then you get a line of demarcation.... If you were to apply the brown now with the 7 volume - I truthfully would suspect that it would be all out by December. I need to know the level of your base to understand what it truly correct here.

    I use Renbow's Semi permanent line called RenMagic, it is 100% semi-permanent - no peroxide or catalyst of any kind is used with it. This or the WASH N TONE Renbow line are what I have used on Celebs many times when they need a new color for interviews - short parts they are going to play so we keep their hair in good condition... That is mandatory for so many of them, and we go to great lengths to keep their hair in the best condition.

    ( you must order THRIVEN for your hairs condition - every client I ever had, used it).

    In Ren Magic the darkest color is BROWN its about a LEVEL 6-7
    In Wash N Tone there are a lot more colors and choices. . .but you are using a catalyst...if you leave it on for just 10 minutes - they claim its semi-permanent...but we know better - you are STILL USING some sort of a developer - - which makes it a DEMI permanent.

    If you are interested in any of these colors or looking at the color charts . . I don't have the RenMagic posted, but WILL later today... join our GROUP


    If you want to order just shoot me an email : Killerstrands@gmail.com

    Great question thanks,
    gives me a chance to explain the whole: Semi-vs-Demi War!


  8. I've been dying my hair with Dark brown permanent dye (comes out as dark of a brown as you can get/almost black) for awhile now. I was thinking about slowly letting it fade away but i don't want to grow it out and have huge roots in the process.

    I was thinking of using demi-permanent that way it isn't as harsh and not so permanent so it can slowly fade away if i decide to let it.

    The question i have is.. do i have to use demi-permanent haircolor OR can i use the haircolor that comes with the box i know i like and just use/buy a lower developer so that it doesn't penetrate as deep?

    Thanks in advance!

  9. oops i also wanted to add...

    I was really thinking about using semi-permanent dye so that it could completely wash out after time. But if it is only going to last 6 shampoos i'd rather not waste my time. if it would last a month then i would do it, I just don't want it to wash away in a week.

    I've also read too that people have had their semi permanent last a month.

    The brand i am interested in is the Clariol beautiful collection. How long does it usually last?

    Thanks again!


All comments are moderated. Please do not include: references to personal information, or any profane, inflammatory or copyrighted comments. We would appreciate it if we all stick to the subject of HAIR . Have a wonderful day.