February 21, 2008

Toner or Tone Him; Either Way its a Kick Ass Solution, For A Way Too Common Hair Problem

Tone her or Tone him !!  

ha ha 

Either Way a toner is an Opaque Covering in Hair Color that is used to fight off the
UNWANTED DURP (dominant unwanted underlying pigment) that is brought out, usually, by lightening the hair.

Toners are a long time celebrity secret, so many of them get one once a week, the deal is most of them have a Salon in their home.

They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the de-colorizing process. You may hear the term "double-process" application in association with a Toner. That means the first process is the application of the lightener; the second process is the application of the toner.

I try to explain it to newbie's in the chair using the reference to a "Nylon" on a leg. The leg is one color(white) and if you want it to look tan> you don't buy brown tights...you buy a "tan" colored nylon, opaque - sheer nylons. That is what a Toner is.... Opaque-sheer-pastel-color that slips over the hair. So you slip the nylon on the leg and poof - you have a Tan leg. Same thing with blond hair, applying the toner is exactly like the nylon, only the toner covers all the strands of your hair with the opaque-sheer- pastel color.

Why do I say "anyone can do it"? What's the difference between this color and any other? The hardest part of this process? Access to getting the professional versions which are the ones that are like silk when applied ! Which you can now get at our store

A toner is a very light color usually a Level 10, sometimes a Level 9 or even an Level 8. So its a very light color to make it a toner, the goal is only to deposit color so one uses a 6 Volume - 10 Volume - 15 Volume - 17 Volume - are the 4 levels of Peroxide I have in my Lab for this purpose.
{ Remember like a "nylon"} . So you have a low volume peroxide and a HIGH Level of Color which makes for "NO" lifting action. Therefore the chemical reaction is very mild, no color is being lifted out of the hair....so you don't need gloves (use them anyway) , the color does not stain your hands, or the furniture!, and there is NO line of demarcation, so you can kind of slap it on {although "I" never do}, being careful to make at least 1/2" parts to apply the product. Its just not that critical - I have put them on myself {a LEVEL 8RG-red-gold} without even looking at the back, just doing it by feel. Apply it every where then comb it through.... wham bam thank you mam.

This is an example of what a Toner "can" do.

Its even easier to apply BOOST & BURST, it truly is because there is NO MESS from the oxidative color pigment. ++ the biggest advantage to me is you are not screwing your hair up for your next color. Just be sure to apply the last toner application 7-10 days before your next appointment or the next time you will color your hair.

What do you need to apply toners? I use the tint brush and tint bowl method, I'm a colorist, I doubt I will ever be able to break that habit. But truthfully - for a toner - those bottles I see at the beauty supply should work just fine > If you buy Color Touch, the ratio is 1:2 which makes up 6 whole ounces of product with one tube. One tube will do 1 head of super long <> super thick hair. Everyone else may get 2 applications out of the one tube. 

Remember BOOST & BURST can give a variety of colors no one at any other Ecommerce store or Salon has.

  • Toning highlights to give warmth ( gets ride of 'gray' highlights)

  • Color Touch 9/36-Light Golden Violet Blonde (sugg.)

  • Tone down Brassy highlights - CT 10/01 Lightest Ash Blonde

  • Platinum toned Gwen Stefani style- combined Colour Touch 10/89 + CT 10/7 Cafe Latte  OR 9/16 is even better

  • Tone blocks of platinum - silver - CT 8/81 Silver

  • Molly - I used 10/6 Lightest Violet Blonde - was out of 10/89 the strongest yellow-killer

  • ANGEL ROSE BOOST & BURST for that Rose Gold Look everyone loves today!

If you click on these charts these are the Color Touch Color Charts, the top 2 rows are the colors usually considered "toners".

I suggest studying these charts just spend some time looking at them, it will help the "level system" sink in. We will review them again and some additional ones, but for now try to become familiar with them.

Now to order any of the dozens of Professional toners I have  just visit our STORE .

We have lots of Goodies there . . . . for hair health and hair color. . .

21 comments on "Toner or Tone Him; Either Way its a Kick Ass Solution, For A Way Too Common Hair Problem"
  1. hello , i have some questions about toners..At first Do toners work over color tinted (not bleached) hair ?Do they have the same (good) results this way?
    And secondly.. is it the same if i use a semi permanent like color touch as if i use a permanent like koleston perfect with 20vol peroxide?I mean do i get the same results..? what is the advantages of using semi permanent instead of a permanent with low volume peroxide-if any..?


  2. Heya,

    I went to the color touch website to see the shade chart clearer and i cant seem to find the 10/89 ....actually i cant seem to find ANY level 10 shades....the highest is 9 !.....

    website: http://www.wellaprofessionals.co.uk/hairdresser/products/color/color_touch/shade_spectrum/shades/index.jsp

    so how do we formula 10/89 ?

    do u use the cler version to get the shade lighter (clear shade 0/00)

    THANX again,

  3. HI Waterstiller,
    Some do some don't...I need an example... as I said somewhere... I use a toner on my Level 8R Red hair . . . to >add shine >cut down on frizz, cut down on my blow drying time, and it gives my hair body. I put one on once a month, when I was in the Salon Every 2 weeks. I have one color hair except for 3 blonde ribbons, so I pull those out and tone the rest. That way YES it works wonders.
    You've got 2 BIG questions there...
    SEmi Permanents or Demi permanent- which one? they are HUGELY different in my mind.
    Semi's don't use a developer.
    Demi's do.
    Demi's with their LOW developer, don't "LIFT"
    {this is a subject I need to go into people don't know what I am talking about, I can see it...}
    so they do not alter you OWN HAIR COLOR....
    they are just keeping your hair at the same level or darker....
    NOT lighter....
    with the developer below 20 volume
    there is no lift.
    I went into all of this in explaining the 4 types of hair color, but maybe I have caught your eye a different way...this time.
    Did I?
    Like I said, I feel the results from any color on the planet are the best from the demi permanent line called Color Touch. The shine and health it gives to the hair are the best.

    Just comes from doing over 10,000 heads of hair, that's it!

    If you give me an example of what you are thinking or talking about maybe I could answer it better for you ...

  4. Hannah,
    Are you from the UK?
    We have different charts and different lines.
    Look at the American site...
    No...adding clear does not work that way...sorry you are
    or you can order it from me
    Dakota ;)

  5. Hannah,
    the chart is right there on the post
    you can see it - right there in front of you.

  6. Hannah,
    the chart is right there on the post
    you can see it - right there in front of you.

  7. Would level one hair be too dark to tone it... anything?


  8. ok.. for example.. i dont bleach my hair.. i dont find it easy(at least for now ).They are a level 10 blond at the lengths and a level 8-9 near the roots.. I tint them using a 10/89 koleston perfect with a 30-40 volume develloper and my virgin hair is level 5.Sometimes they come out reddish when i retouch my roots.. Will a toner take away the warmth..Does the toners take on tinted hair ?
    And the second question is.. will a semi (with appropriate emulsion) work the same way as a permanent hair color tint would work with a low volume developer on that?
    The reason i am asking the second one is because.. in my country color touch is being retired (they take it away from beauty supply stores-god knows y) and we dont have color charm either.. I would feel comfortable to know that i can instead use my color perfect hair tint with 10-20 developer the same way.. to TONE the hair (at least the high levels of the tint 9-10lev ).

    Anyhow.. from the chemistry perspective.. do these two separate things.. work the same way-or NOt?

  9. Waterstiller; I'm not Killer, but I have some ideas! I wouldn't use a semi to tint if you don't have access to Colour Touch. Try a permanent colour with 5 or 10 vol. and maybe dilute the colour using half clear colour or use less colour and more peroxide. If your roots come up reddish, you would have to tone at that level --- so likely a level 7 or 8 ash/neutral, which will give you an overall darker look. Hope this helps!

  10. Agele,
    HOOOOOOOORAY . . . are you a colorist? Sounds like it - although everyone here is a very beginner so adding clear is a bit too much I feel - who knows maybe I'm wrong. I've been wrong a lot lately.
    I don't know what the proper protocol is my dear...this is my first experience with a blog...a group -- all of it.
    Therefore, I don't know if I am supposed to answer as well, or leave your answer and go on...
    excuse me if I am wrong...
    but I am going to answer her as well.
    Some one let me know what's proper please...
    Boy would I be thrilled if you want to lend a hand

    let me know & thank you so much
    Killer Chemist
    aka Dakota

  11. waterstiller,
    Good guess! I try to stay simple and go through the basics first.
    But yes, that can work as well. I don't find it produces near the shine - BUT, it works.
    You are right in your suspicions,there is ammmonia in the permanent colors as opposed to none in the Demi's.
    Maybe over there you have a host of other choices. What about ALFA PARF, Framesi,Schwartzkopf? I mean what are you guys doing looking over here? YOU have the color I would die for. Before Koleston Perfect finally got approved for release in the USA...for the first 2 years of my career we had it brought over from ENGLAND when the teachers would go back and forth. What about Renbow they have a GREAT toner line...and I think you can just buy it an online store over there. Try them. They come in a little kit and have a zillion collars they rock.
    You are in europe right? All you europeans . . .Plus, I just sent a cartload of stuff to one of our readers in AFRICA! So Killerstrands has become GLOBAL! Me and MicroSoft
    Back on point here...
    Sure take 10A / 9A and mix it with 5 0R 10 Volume ..
    NO 20 Volume
    20 volume is the mark of "lifting" and PERMANENT color even 15 Volume is available through Framesi. No higher than 18 Volume - is safe.

    I hope I don't have the idea of toners blown out of proportion here,
    they are very VERY sheer. Very.

    I am putting together a mini-demonstration on hair wefts for you all so you can see what I mean about lifting action and toners. HOping that helps you see clearly the idea of lifting.

    Its important.


  12. Would you like to point out a european online store that i can buy hair color lines like that?Most of the eshops i find are in the US and they dont offer international shipping (like sallys and winmex etc)..Plus it is much more expensive to get products from the us because the shipping is too much most of the times...(i recently bought some vitamins from a us store and the shipping was 20$ -nearly as much as the price of the product-)..So even though i search a lot online.. i cannot say i have found european stores with professional hair color lines..Do u have any idea where i can find one ?

    ps.. thanx for your answer to my previous questions :)))

  13. Waterstiller,

    Sorry this is the only one I know of....
    but I cannot believe that you would have to shop here to get what the make there. Try to find Framesi or Schwartzkopf online if that doesn't work out.
    Yes, that is what happens when you send something to the other side of the earth.
    It tends to be expensive,
    rightly so - if you ask me.
    The people that have ordered it from other lands are smart...they order the color for the year.
    As it makes it no more expensive to send 1 little thing than 12 little things to the other side of the planet.
    Clever - they are.

  14. well i 've seen their site before.. but the sad thing is they dont give you access in their color line-just crazy colors line and other stuff :(((

    I ve been trying to find a website so that i can purchase stuff online, but i dont know... maybe because of this diversion thing or something most of the times you cannot get professional color lines online...At least not in european websites

    I do find a lot in the US-including you doing it- most of the times they dont ship in europe and if they do it is so much more expensive that you decide not to do it..:Pp :)Maybe i purchase straight from you in the future ...if i get no luck finding these products here

    Additionally..IGORA has some tints at a level 9,1/2 which i was told is meant to be used as a toner..What do you think about their color line ?

  15. Waterstiller,
    Funny you mention it...
    Scwartzkopf (igora) used to be one of the "top" lines...being from Germany and all...
    the country known for their technology.
    For years I had a great friend who was their Color Rep, they did lots of great education etc..,
    Last month I bought my own personal color from them because they have this new jazzy color swatch book. Gorgeous, must have cost a fortune...Very impressive. Trying to out--do Wella I'm sure. Problem is Wella puts the money INTO the color NOT the swatch book.
    My hair looked like CRAP
    -it was really a crappy pigment - color everything. Very orange (you never want to hear that word associated with hair) - needless to say I would never recommend it. on your own on that one.
    No getting pro color is made for the pros - one advantage of being a pro. Part of my deal is knowing that everyone purchasing from me UNDERSTANDS the LEVEL system, and where they are going with their color...which is better than "licensed Cosmetologists" can say.
    For your STATE BOARD TEST you are not asked about the LEVEL SYSTEM of HAIR COLOR ....you are not required to know it - & I would say a vast majority of Cosmetology Schools -- do NOT TEACH IT.

    So in my own little way I am trying to change the education and knowledge of hair color in America!
    This way, we finally have people being accountable for using professional hair color - that's why I ask that everyone speak to me in Levels and understand the LEVEL SYSTEM!
    I feel the system should be this way, especially with all of you writing and telling me about how many thousands of unqualified Hair Stylists/Colorists are out there.

    I can feel selling the hair color is going into educated hands, even if it is only on themselves.

    thank you

  16. How do i order from you? Is there a website? And i would like to see the product selections.

  17. serenabena:

    You may order from our "underground store" ... first you apply to our Group (Google Groups-Killerstrands) http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands?hl=en
    then you have access to the store - plus help from members- managers and me for professional hair colors.

    Answer the 3 questions to get in quicker ~ see you there boys and girls!
    thank you

  18. Very nice. I love this blog about toners. I have been having problem in understanding the Redken demi-permanent haircolor. The color chart is totally different from their permanent haircolor chart. I work with latin hair with is a big chalenge when you try to neutralize ther underlying pigment. I know many haircolorist that works with permanente haircolor and a low ox as a toner. I am totally agaisnt it. My question is: wich other demi would you sugeste for latin hair?

  19. The best Demi permanent on the marketplace is Wella's ColorTouch. It just ROCKS.

    1. Do Not listen to that,
      that was before the big Proctor and Gamble takeover.
      P & G really did a number on Color
      touch, its so sad - - but true.

  20. I read this post several times and I just now "got" the title! That's funny ;)


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