February 5, 2016

Knowing the 4 Distinct TYPES of Hair Color is Super Important... Or You May Get In Trouble When Choosing

 I have a number of Consultations going on at any one time and you will be surprised why I do them really. I like to keep very up-to-date with what everyone is or is NOT understanding as far as my hair color Education Posts on this Blog go.  Therefore when I go through a couple Consultations and I listen to what the people do and do not understand it makes me try to RE-TEACH a subject so that maybe if I approach it from a different angle then maybe more of you will understand it better and more clearly.

For example the "types of Hair Color"
 - right when I feel I have taught it from every single angle possible a person in my  consultation explains how they don't understand what the difference is between Semi-Permanent hair color and Demi-permanent and that could create a gigantic problem that I certainly don't want to be the cause of.....

So when I repeat subjects it is because I want you to read this description from another angle....

1} Temporary Hair Color
Temporary color is what many of you use at Halloween, it can be sprayed in and shampooed out. The pigment molecules in temporary color are large and therefore don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a 'coating action' ... these color molecules may be removed by shampooing...
This type of hair color only makes a physical change not a chemical change in the hair shaft.
Temporary hair colors are available in a variety of colors & products such as:
  • color rinses applied weekly to add color
  • colored mousses & gels used for slight color/dramatic effects
  • hair mascara
  • special effects
  • color-enhancing shampoos/conditioners : like Boost & BURST

2} Semi Permanent Hair color 
 Semi - Perm is color formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairs porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo. It lasts only 6 - 8 shampoos. It cannot lighten hair, so the change is minor and it does not require the maintenance of "new growth". It is formulated without AMMONIA and is generally as gentle to the hair as shampoo. This is exactly what BOOST & BURST our color enhanced shampoos and conditioners are....

Many Semi-Perm colors can be used straight out of the bottle, some require an activator - which bothers me as I feel it should stay on the side of Semi-Perm.....or not. The activator develops the color pigments within the formula and helps to swell the cortex and open the cuticle for color penetration, which begins the difference between semi and demi permanent colors.
In order to understand why the BOXED HAIR COLOR Kits do not work, it is necessary to thoroughly understand 'what' : Semi....Demi....and Permanent Hair color is. So many of you will purchase one of the boxes that claims to "shampoo out in 8-10 washes and find out it doesn't. you wonder 'why'.... so many of you figure you must have done something wrong when you applied it, when in fact you are "set up to fail" to begin with by companies that truly do not give a damn by turning out a product that does not and could not work in a million years.

3} Demi Permanent Hair Color
 The #1 and most important difference between Semi & Demi is..............Demi is when you begin using Developer. Semi = THERE IS NO DEVELOPER, they are sometimes calling it "Direct Dye" even though that is not really an appropriate name.
The newest classification Demi permanent is also called ''deposit only'' and referred to as 'semi' permanent by some manufacturers which is 100% incorrect. It is similar to semi, but more long lasting. Some of the European companies have chosen to use super low volume peroxides to differentiate the semi from the demi lines. Honestly, it depends on the manufacturer, the Colorist or the school as to how it is defined. My education is Vidal Sassoon based which is known as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" so I think you'll be safe using my criteria.
I like to think of Demi Perm Colors as any color line that uses 3 to 15 Volume is Demi-Permanent. Which makes this the perfect category to be used on men's and any hair that needs to be strengthened- colored- add depth to and most importantly SHINE. Wella's Color Touch line gives hair soooo much shine you will be dancing on the furniture after you use it. It is my number 1 line of hair color out of every line and every category.

With those numbers of developer, the only action that will happen is Deposit of color - no lift <> no lightening.
I am of the belief that depositing color in the hair strands of either gray, white, or simply middle-aged (weak) hair can add:
  • strength
  • shine
  • illusion of thickness
  • reduce frizz & tangles.....just try it once, you have nothing to lose.
IF YOU HAVE lots of gray : the perfect manner in which to color the hair is to use Wella Koleston Perfect on the base and Wella Color Touch on the Lengths......I cannot wait for you to try this! If you need a conversion of your formula - call me I will give you one
This formula generally imparts vivid color results, and is ideal for covering un-pigmented hair, refreshing faded permanent color, depositing tonal changes without lift, corrective coloring and low-lighting.
By their very nature, demi's or deposit-only hair colors darken the natural hair color when applied. They cause little or no damage to the hair and are generally positioned as gentle and mild due to their low ammonia or no ammonia content.
 In recent years, many top colorists will apply demi to the 'lengths' of the hair while permanent is applied to the roots. This fights the build-up effect that can occur on previously colored hair and is also less aggressive, resulting in less damage.

The single best line in this category is WELLA's Color Touch Line, to date... I have tested most every line aned this line is the single best line of hair color in the world currently HANDS DOWN !


Permanent hair color is mixed with developer ( hydrogen peroxide) @ 20 Volume and above and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs. It is used to match,lighten and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color products generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints and peroxide. The single best line that exists on planet earth is Well'a Koleston Perfect . . . I have seen this line cover the toughest of tough gray hair to the most gentle of gentle colors.......all with grace, and shine.....

The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors, which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules . These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out and that is why this is considered Permanent color.You have a line of demarcation on the hair once one uses this type of hair color and so it is referred to as PERMANENT HAIR COLOR.

Now here is a chart I used a lot when I was doing hair I would show it to clients if they were really confused about which color they wanted....I would ask them to just point to one or 2 colors that they loved. Maybe all of you can also use this chart to try to figure out which way you want to go with your hair color as well.......

Now if you use permanent hair color and you make a mistake I just want you to know that I can solve almost every single problem there is with hair color ...and as big as a sentence as that is I am very confidant I can back it up....so I don't want you to worry if you are considering becoming a Crib Colorist for the first time.... I am here for you.... We have a $49. EMERGENCY Help Phone Call ......if you have just come out of a Salon and your hair is:
  • Green
  • Blue
  • Gray AND NOT THE "good gray"
  • Etc................its the ER FOR HAIR  
There is now an emergency help phone call Item you may purchase in the store. I would hope it would not be any of my Crib colorist Militia - but maybe some of you new to Killerstrands......Its called ER FOR HAIR - A 911 Service for any and all hair color disasters   

Yes. we have hair color removers and all sorts of tricks that I have accumulated over the course of the last 17 years and I can help everyone with almost every problem or question there is in regards to hair coloring. But, in order to avoid having to use that bag of tricks for all the various problems that permanent hair color seems to grow, I highly recommend that each and every one of you take the suggestion I have made and read the Blog Cover to cover....because








4 comments on "Knowing the 4 Distinct TYPES of Hair Color is Super Important... Or You May Get In Trouble When Choosing"
  1. I have Wella KP 7 on my hair now but I was about to order KP 6/77. What demi-permanent color should I use to go with the 6/77 or should I put the 6/77 all over my head the first time?

  2. Wella's Hair Color Lines are brilliantly designed.If you have gray the formula you are using is incorrect. Your base should use 2 colors, for example: 6/0 + 6/77 + 20 Volume for your base....then on your lengths apply Wella color Touch in 6/77, on the lengths and then you have the best of both worlds!


  3. I colored my hair last night with the formula you gave me above. I love the brown color on my lengths but my roots ended up lighter color with an orangish tint - maybe because of the grey? Is there any way to fix that for next time?

    1. Whoops, no that's not what i meant, YOU Chose Level 6...I was just showing you how this type of hair color works. WHY did you choose a Level 6 color? From what you are saying that means you had old haIR COLOR ON the HAIR, used the wrong Volume of Developer and used the wrong color of hair color. and your base (roots).

      You can't just throw one hair color on top of another one without a proper plan....
      Geez, I Better watch what I say....when I give advice out here, I am giving general advice. I have said many times that the only way I can help you with your individual hair colors and your problems or issues is if I get the answers to the Killer 18 Questions. Without those , I just don't "guess''....that is not how it works...I'm sorry for the misunderstanding.

      That result is because you (1) Chose too light of a color. I didn't know what Level hair color you had !! You did not remove all of the old hair color first, there is a whole lot of other hair color on your hair and that is not how I do re-touches. YOU CHOSE THE LEVEL,you said " I"m going to use 6/77 , what should I mix with it??? If you tell me that I figured you knew enough to pick out the proper LEVEL of Hair Color.....WHICH YOU DID NOT. The first number of a hair color is the LEVEL of hair that it will be when you apply it to hair with NO hair color on it. You said I am going to use 6/77 - which means it is a Level 6 hair color - if your roots turned out orange that means you used the wrong Volume Developer #1 and the wrong color of hair color. What Volume of Developer did you use? Tell me your order number??


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