January 29, 2008

Your Hair is Dyeing For You To Become A Crib Colorist

Crib colorist? Home Hair Color can be one of the most satisfying and fulfilling projects you ever take on. There are many of you teetering on that fence. Ever baked a cake from scratch? You know... put every single ingredient in the bowl - - one by one - - mixing after each addition -- baked it and WOW it came out perfectly. The difference in the texture, the smell...dear Lordie the "taste"-- you had no idea the difference would be this remarkeable - and you created it.
Imagine that sensation : magnified 100 times - that's how you will feel after that first time you color your hair . . the CC Crib Colorist method - the proper way.
Its funny I am not finding most of you looking to do this because of the cost . . . I would say 7 out of 10 of you are taking this on because you cannot find a competent Hair Stylist.
Therefore this is being written for all of you for one reason or another want to color your hair at home. In your Crib. I’m going to try my damnedest to skip the bullshit & cut to the chase in this endeavor. Killerstrands #1 goal is and always will be the 'health of your hair' try to remember that is always the basis of my advice and teachings. That is the foundation of Sassoon Theory and Killerstrands Theory, a good one I think - how about you?
The reason for the CRIB COLORIST Program?
So many of you are having your hair destroyed, damaged, and turned ungodly shades of orange, yellow and green all because of boxed Hair Color Kits. You know the ones, from the grocery store, Target, Walmart. Where everything you could possibly need for drop dead gorgeous hair that Heather Locklear has, is magically in this one little tiny box and is sold at a discount store for $8.00. Yes, that is right where dear Heather runs to when she wants her hair colored. She sends her assistant to Walmart for a 'hair color boxed kit' Yeah, right.

In the level of hair coloring I was associated with (Malibu, TV/film, celeb, Hollywood) I was appalled that anyone would even think of using those boxed kits – I mean -- why can’t everyone spend $100. – $200.-$300.00 on their hair monthly? Well, as hard as that is to admit now, is exactly how I thought, and now am asking the world to except my apologies and regrets that I was like that. I can only learn from my mistakes, apologize, improve and try to get back to being a compassionate person. Hopefully with this effort I hope to make-up for that period in my life where I was not seeing clearly. In my previous environments I was not aware of the amount of people that must color their hair at home, for one reason or another. I now, fully understand and want to turn my thoughts, efforts and education to that segment of the Hair Universe. I am pretty much over-trained for it, but that makes it even better. I want to give all of the people that will listen the benefit of all my glorious knowledge. I have become ill, and this is about all I can handle to do - it will be good for me and excellent for you.

My beginnings and education:
There may be many different theories on hair color, I don’t know…I was taught by the best so I have never needed to look anywhere else. I attended Vidal Sassoon Academy for 1 full year, then stayed on to assist Lucie Doughty (my mentor) for the following year to hone my skills as a colorist, which was worth every single minute! She was kind enough to share many tricks and secrets many wouldn't do. England is the so-called “home” of hair color & hair for that matter…with Vidal Sassoon’s head colorist Annie Humphrey's being given the name the “Mother of All Hair Color” of the last 25 years that I know of. She has always set the “collections”…developed the “trends”…made up new and innovative coloring techniques that we as “pupils” (wink) would pick up -copy and spread throughout this country – she was a firecracker and damn what a talent. Everything I know and practice was passed down from her and I have worked directly under her on occasion.

So many of the techniques being done today, Annie was doing 10-15-20 years ago, now retired, she truly is and was the Grand Dame of all hair color I'm sure everyone would back me on that statement. By the way, she is the one that not only introduced me to using the LEVITATION BLEACH on the bleach & Tone process. She had a model to do one day and threw a fit until someone went and found her some Levitation. We were at the Sassoon Academy at the time and had shelves of other products, she just would not do the models hair until we had this particular Levitation Oil Bleach - at that point I hadn't heard of it - we used another brand in the academy. ( I had to drive all over Hell 6 stores it ended up being, finally tracked it down, so I was the hero for a day) I have never forgotten that + plus what I saw on that model was a lifelong learning experience...I too have never used anything else. If she believed in that product that much, I was going to as well. That was 16 years ago and she was 100% correct.

After her, I looked to Lucie Doughty the single most brilliant Colorist in this country (from the UK also) that has since moved over to Paul Mitchell and ( in my opinion) is the Queen today. I look to Lucie to run with the crown for the next decade or two and with the USA trying to catch up in the hair color race, the need to reach across the pond has diminished. What I teach on Killerstrands, is a combo of what I learned from Lucie and my own spin. So, although the education did not come from me: it is my interpretation and my slant on things after years on my own and with my personal artistic twist and input. Being extremely lucky in having some of the best teachers in the world -- I thank my lucky stars all the time.

This is my interpretation of a universal standard that hair color works; it is chemistry like cooking is. Certain ingredients perform certain actions… emulsifiers, ammonia's, peroxides…they need to be used to perform what they were made for. Certain products have no grey, its black and white…its science although in order to come up with various colors and new inventions we are taking new liberties all the time. The method I relay to you, is going to be as absolutely SIMPLE as possible. Any questions at all I hope you will bring up immediately in the "comments" section - Any comments section, it doesn't matter, I get an email right away when any comment is made anywhere on the site.. Asking the questions here will get you the fastest answer, plus it helps me by posing questions I guarantee you other readers are thinking.

To make it absolutely clear my goal for you as a certified CRIB COLORIST is : to STOP purchasing the boxed Kits of COLOR. They are not set up to work properly on your hair, and in my experience, have seen them damage and destroy hair time after time.

I make the professional color available to you if you'd like to purchase it from me through PAYPAL, making sure you understand the "Level System" and some
color theory. The main goal for you is to buy the items separately - where ever you get them from !

Its not that hard, and the only reason they don't push the separate TUBE ... and DEVELOPER method is , they don't think the public will take the time to learn this small system I am asking you to learn. The LEVEL system. Once you understand THAT . . .then you can figure out what tube of hair color and what Volume of developer you should use.
You are still purchasing the same "basic" ingredients, this way you will purchase the proper "volume" developer and "proper level of color & tone for only your hair" the difference that will happen in just making these few little changes will blow you away. You will learn what Level of hair color you can buy that will work and will not.

Not all hair colors work on all hair, there are many limitations I promise you - they don't tell you that one statement on those box kits. There are already many readers that have taken the time to learn the Level System and have written in with their stories, I will begin a section with them very soon. I promise its very simple - - - like learning to cook - the basics. Please go to our GROUP - there is a BEGINNING to COLOR Your Hair at Home section http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands

This is what you would purchase from Killerstrands to get started :

pH balancer ( it helps the condition & shine- promise)



gloves come free with every order of hair color

Yes this is a broad statement...because every one's hair is very different but this one color process is the single most common hair color performed in the country so I chose that as an example. This is for that person that maybe is a dishwater blond and wants to be a yummy chocolate brown, so every month she has to touch up her roots with the brown tint and refresh the ends.

In order for you to understand which color you should buy when you go to the store you must learn some very simple basics. So please try to have an open mind, hair color manufacturers ‘think’ the consumer won’t take the time to learn the “Level System".
I disagree.
I feel with a little education, demonstrations and a great website it can be solved and all of you can have the knowledge to pick out your own tube of hair color the RIGHT ONE and the proper volume of developer not the one they think you need - hair color does not work that way. So when you color your hair, you don't have to go back and buy another color and cover it up.
From this site alone I have heard of hundreds of women that have had to do that.
That way they are selling you 2 kits
That's not very nice now, is it?

I didn't realize it before I got out into the Salon world and the public. I worked in the Hollywood Glitz world styling with all the tricks of the Trade . . . they are 2 completely different worlds, and I can see why now, as a hair stylist a fairly good size of our business is fixing the disasters created by boxed color kits.We used to call them "job security". . . so why would we want to explain this to anyone?
I have only recently put the whole thing together because I am not working in the hustle & bustle of a Salon.

The Hair Color Manufacturers that make those boxed kits Set You Up To Fail - you either have to purchase 2 kits or send that customer to the Salon to get their hair fixed by a professional - that professional may use that same companies "professional" line of color even.

Either way they are getting you for 2 hair colors - when it only needs to be one.
I have read the back of those kits, I even bought a couple to see what in hell is wrong - after receiving so many complaints & finally having the time to research it..
I don't want to go into it all here - if anyone wants the specifics I have answered many questions on the subject over at YAHOO ANSWERS - under the hair category -" hair color kits ").

What I want you to start thinking about is ...the fix for this, is finally here.

Its already posted, I have been teaching it right along, so you need to begin the series and read pretty much the whole blog up to here. I know it seems like a lot. Sit back and enjoy - I teach a lot of things most every top hair stylist keeps secret...so I would ABSORB - ABSORB it all up if I were you.
Everyone I tell to do that - thanks me.
I try to make it interesting, you can ask questions whenever you want - I answer everything.

Lastly: my illness is terminal, I don't know how long I have left and what will become of this
when I am gone, I am trying to get everything down as quick as possible - I'd like everyone to be able to get the advantages. So I would start learning and reading if I were you. No other Stylist will give up what I have, I've said it before: Stylists are only as good as their trick and secrets.
Mine are here for the world to read and enjoy.
35 comments on "Your Hair is Dyeing For You To Become A Crib Colorist"
  1. Hi, I absolutely love reading all your advice! You are an angel for sharing this with all of us!

    I have a question for you, I am currently a 4 medium brown with lots of red, I would like to be a 6 or 7 ashy blonde.... my question is, do I bleach to get to that level and then tone it from that hideous orange to an ash blonde, or do I use 30developer and a a 9 or 10 dye to get it there? I have no qualms using bleach, I really just would like to know what method would be best because all the bleaching advice you've posted is for platnum blonde and I'm confused as to whether it applies for all shades of blonde... Any advice would be wonderful! Thanks!

  2. Hi Marie and welcome

    First of all you must always remember to state whether your 4BR Hair is Virgin or Tinted> that color, makes a BIG difference in my advice.

    I am going to assume it is tinted that color. If it was virgin it would be so-very-easy, if that is so what color is Your virgin hair?

    The first thing you need to do is get on the shampoo train immediately. I have a ( highly traveled post) that teaches the 3 ways we use in the world of Celebrity hair to take the old color out of the hair. So when wanting to change colors as you have suggested the first step is to get the old one out. You cannot keep coloring on top of coloring.

    Doesn't work.

    There are some basics you need to know in order to understand what I am talking about.

    If I were you I would....read the De-colorization post

    begin the train ASAP
    while you take the time to learn the basics of hair color and the color wheel...
    everyone i suggest this to, ends up loving it...i know it seems like a lot but it really is not..

    For the health of the hair....this is what must be done first

    answer my few questions so I can reaccess
    thank you
    Killer Chemist

  3. could you please show us how to knock out underlining pigment at a level 8-9 of hair?Suppose that the virgin hair color is level 5,that the hair is tinted at level 10-12 at the lengths and the tips and with a lot of hightlights ( which i think makes the whole process more difficult because hightlighted hair takes color a lot more faster than the other hair..so when u apply haircolor with a violet base , the hightlights turn out purple very easilywhile the rest of the level 10-12 tinted hair doesnt have the time to knock out the underlying yellow tone ).And another question.. i would really really like to follow your advice for bleaching hair.. but how would you do it on hair that have a lot of highlights ?Would you apply it only on the roots?because i cannot use bleach on my already bleached hightlights.. i would use it on the rest of my hair i suppose that have a strange yellow red blond color..

  4. I'm naturally a 6 - but have been dying it for the last year or so, so it might have darkened up since I'm getting older...

    I'll definitely start the shampoo train right away!

  5. Pauline,
    Welcome and thanks for your question.

    I'm confused by your question. Answer this.
    What LEVEL "IS" your hair?
    What Level do you "prefer"?

    What I think is your dillemma is that you have Level 5 roots/base with level 12 highlights and you'd like to have one color overall...a very common problem.
    Am I right?

    But then am totally confused by your first question:
    " could you please show us how to knock out underlining pigment at a level 8-9 of hair " ??

    That I see as a totally different question on another head of hair...
    and I really am confused as to what color IS YOUR HAIR?

    Please, if you could answer the basic questions it would help me so much more. Without having the advantage of "sight" and "feel"..its a lot harder to give advice which is another reason you must all learn the basics - so we can solve your hair color issues - ON-THE-WEB !!

    I am going to post the basic questions again for those that want me to solve their hair color formulations. But for now can you clear up my questions?
    Thanks so much

    Killer Chemist

  6. Marie Elizabeth,
    OK, great...
    so you have been darkening your hair for a year and now you want lighten it.
    You are a virgin Level 6 and been tinting your hair a LEVEL 4 for the past year. Now you would like to be a LEVEL 6 or 7 Ash blonde.

    So you are just trying to be your virgin color of hair?

    So my directions were correct. In order to lighten after darkening, the SHAMPOO TRAIN is your 1st vehicle! It works and do NOT cut out the time you leave the clarifying shampoo on the hair, it really loosens the color molecules.

    I also need to hear what condition your hair is in?
    how thick?
    what texture?

    the absolute fastest and best way to do this is to order VANISH COLOR remover from Killerstrands...that is the only true color remover that does not destroy your hair.
    Plan B would be to keep on the shampoo Train, see how light you get it after 1 solid week of it.

    Basically are you just trying to get the color you put in your hair out
    and then you'll have it?
    or do you want it 1-2 shades lighter...
    ?? questions - questions that is the whole problem of trying to do this on the web!
    but we're making it ...
    Killer Chemist

  7. Thanks so much for your quick responses!!

    My hair is is pretty good condition, I deep condition it at least once a week. I need to get the ends trimmed, but I wanted to wait until after I color it to cut it so I can cut all the bad ends off...

    My hair isn't really thick, but I have a lot of it. It's naturally wavy, but when I straighten it, it can appear fairly thin.

    I want it a few shades lighter than my natural color, and ashy because I usually get a lot of red tones in my hair, even when I have it professionally done...

    My last coloring was semi-permanent and it has lightened up a WHOLE lot since then, I was probably a 2 or 3 brown... Also, could I possibly use the Bleach Soap Cap to get rid of the previous color instead of the shampoo train?

    I want to eventually get it to a pretty light blonde and put some pink paint streaks in it underneath, but for right now, I would just like to be about a medium blonde again and then I can go lighter later...


  8. That is what I like to see...........I like to see my readers ....."reading" my site and learning.
    Learning different ideas to achieve your goal.!
    CONGRATS....you found another method, all on your own!/
    That's my goal.
    Everyone wants me to tell them the answer without having to read....but look what you have done, figured out a great alternative answer. Faster that's for sure...
    I hope you are continuing on with the Train... tho....while we are going back and forth, trying to figure this out. It helps- promise.

    yeah you could try the soap cap....go carefully the first time so you can see how light one step of it goes... re access

    good job girl

    Keep me informed


  9. So, I may have jumped the gun.. :-(

    I tried the soap cap and it ended up bleaching my roots to a real light blonde and everything else was orange... so, with some encouragement from my friends, we decided to go back and put more on the ends, 1-in from the scalp so that we could at least get the color to even out...

    I don't know what happened, but it ended up really light (at least a 9)and orangy/yellow... so we went out and got Clairols Professional 10A, toned it, which really didnt seem to make much of a difference...

    so now, I have really light, all over, wheat colored blonde hair... which except for making me look like a barbie, really doesn't look terrible, but was definitely NOT what I wanted...

    I have an appointment now this evening with a salon to maybe get some lowlights put in, just so that it's not all one color and to maybe darken it up just a little bit...

    I know I was a bad pupil, but do you have any reccomendations for what to do next? :-(

  10. You get the Award of being the first to do this...
    although I had one woman do this to a wig...
    on your own hair, that's pretty bad
    You were over enthusiastic...I heard that....
    Shampoo train is the best thing, you didn't listen
    Hair is not a play toy
    Having it screwed up can really affect one's life..
    do you understand why your roots are lighter than the rest of your hair?
    YOU.......need to sit down and read through every page of my blog
    because the worst part of this ...is that you don't what 'why' your hair is screwed up.

    And putting 10A on it is the COMPLETE AND UTTER WRONG THING to layer on top of what you already did
    I take a lot of time in trying to explain things, so this does not happen
    what were your thoughts in using a 10A on top of this?
    I will admit to making one mistake:
    and that was rewarding you for reading one post....boy I will learn my lesson there.
    Slow down....
    People do this
    they jam into making mistakes on their hair and then jam into fixing them.......
    so if you go put dark lowlights into your hair -- then what?
    If you were in LA you could go to a color correction specialist and get this fixed
    the right way

    how old are you?
    what city do you live in?

    I cannot help you really until you have read every single post on the blog.
    Its silly for me to repeat everything I have already written - once
    Once you have done that....really done that....
    Then email me back and I will give you advice.
    I'm sorry for your mistake, but I really tried to do everything here to help prevent that.

    So I am hoping that the rest of you will learn from Marie's post here, what "not" to do.
    Read through the entire Blog, there is a lot of great information here and it will prevent you from making mistakes like this, I promise.

  11. Marie,
    by the way, I would not put lowlights in the hair, there is a complete other choice that I would perform if you came to me with this problem. That creates another problem and does not go toward what where you 'wanted' to go.

  12. I'm 18 and in Columbus, OH... I know I totally rushed it and should have NEVER put the bleach soap cap on my roots, I told my friend doing it not to, but that's the problem with free help... so yeah, I panicked.

    I used the 10A because I read that you're supposed to use the one that is the number of shades lighter than the shade you're trying to be... which I realize now, was incredibly stupid since I was needing to go darker since it was too light.

    All in all, I screwed up.

    It's not that bad, it's just much lighter than I wanted... the roots actually came out even with the rest of the color, so I'm thankful for that...

    I've gone back through and pretty much read every post you have about coloring (and took notes) and I realize that I just was impatient and made multiple mistakes and I'm paying for it now...

    Is there anything I should specifically ask for when I go to the salon?

  13. Good luck...Sometimes she can be mean!

  14. wow. Lisa... I am so sorry, I never ever wanted to come off mean.
    Maybe I need to stop doing this.

    The last thing I want to do is use my illness as an excuse... had a very bad week and I use this blog as a way to keep my mind off of my pain.

    Which apparently is a bad idea.

    I'm sorry
    really sorry

    I never EVER wanted to appear to be mean. No one has said that about me in years.

    Oh and marie, if I had even thought you were a kid, I wouldn't have said a thing..you sounded so mature initially.
    My 2 daughters are older than you and you sounded older than them!

    I'm sorry - again...please except my apologies

    maybe i'm not cut out for this...

  15. Hello , i just saw your answer and i realize i didnt explain myself well..
    The question of "how to knock out undertones at level 8-9" is a question i would like to know the answer because i believe that it is much more difficult to knock them out at level 8 than at level 12..So i have seen a lot of beautiful 12 level blondes but i havent seen one to come out nicely at a level 8..|Usually they are just orange.And the shampoo (purple, green )toners dont work out at that level..So.. i would really really like to know how would you do this..If you wanted to correct molly's head for example,without re-applying bleach ... what would you do ? Or if you wanted molly's hair to be a level 8 ashy blond?

    I have read your blog from the start .. i ve been reading you for many months :)..I dont know if i have missed something .. but i never really understood how to do this..Do you ever use what -here in europe- we call mixtones or color enhancers? I have bought a 0/66 purple mixtone from wella koleston once and used a little in my tint but i didnt achieve the color a wanted by that time..Anyway it doesnt matter... just tell me how would you do it..

    My virgin hair color is a level 5..My tinted hair is a level 10 with 12 highlights..There are two questions about my haircolor..At first how do u achieve to knock out the underlying pigment if your hair has a lot of highlights and you cant use toners with purple base color enough time to help ALL the hair become the same TONE even though they are a different level..I have tried a purple based demi permanent and my highlights turned out purple!! :Pp

    And a second one is that IF someone wanted to use your method of bleaching (as i understand the only method to bring a level 5 hair to a nice level 10-12 is using bleach ,using high lift tints turns out ugly and you have explained to us why..i've done the math :)PP ).. and that someone had already highlights like me , how they should use bleach .. because they would have to bleach on already bleached hair if they applied it allover the head and i believe that if would fry the hair!!

  16. Hey Dakota!

    I can't WAIT till your Crib Colorist blog is posted! I'm excited!! :D

    And personally, I don't think you should've apologised for ANYTHING. If these readers are actually avid readers of your blog, they would know that you have posted numerous times "READ EVERY SINGLE POST FROM THE BEGINNING." I didn't think you were mean at all. 18 is young, but not a kid anymore... Hair is a serious thing for you, and apparently it wasn't for her. You've posted a link for her for the shampoo train, made suggestions, and in the end I guess there really isn't anything more you could do. She ADMITTED to jumping the gun, for not listening, so therefore, recognizing her own mistake, and the only one that should be sorry is herself for messing up, and not listening to you, like you said... I know this back and forth thing IS difficult, but we all have to be patient, and work WITH you if WE want to do it the right way. Afterall, you are a Master Hair Colorist, right?

    If you sounded mean, so what? If it was unintentional, so what? People are going to make mistakes regardless. So Dakota, do what you do girl. If anyone here takes your advice as being mean because they fucked up or just because, then hey, that's their own personal shit. You are the professional doin it for years on thousands of heads. YOU are doing this for FREE and on your own time. NOBODY here should have ANY reason to complain or accuse anybody about anything because of the wealth of the knowledge that you are posting here willingly.

    So yeah, this is me standing up for you. Don't be discouraged or let anybody bring you down. These people are coming to you for help, remember? They don't have to read your blog. I think the only thing you should apologise for, is not posting your blog sooner in life... Well, for ME anyway, hahaha... Yes, you're mean, I'm mean, we're all mean. Live it. Learn it. Love it. Breathe it. Be about it. Like your hair, hahaha... That's my motto in life.

    Hope you are doing well Dakota!

    -Vang :D

  17. I didn't think you were being mean at all! It was my own fault that I rushed ahead and didn't listen to you! I believe a big part of life is learning from your mistakes, and this is one that I DEFINITELY learned from... thank god it was fixable at least! (I went to the salon and now it's exactly how I wanted it in the first place)

    There is no need to apologise... I don't think you were mean at all, I didn't listen and I was the one who messed up my hair. I am going to continue to read your blog and the next time I decide to do something, I will definitely wait and be PATIENT (something that I'm definitely still learning to do) and make sure that I know exactly what I'm doing before charging ahead.

    Keep doing what you're doing, especially if it keeps your mind off your illness... my dad has colon cancer and so I know from expirence that anything that makes you feel better is a good thing!

    Don't let my being impatient and reckless take away your joy from writing your wonderful blog!


  18. Did my answer come too late?

  19. Does anybody check old posted comments?

  20. Pauline,
    Ok. I get it a little better now.

    You have 3 complete questions. I am going to take them one at a time, because you have me confused a bit still.

    In order to get a nice Level 8 without lots of yellows/golds (yukky tones) is quite easy - I feel.
    Have you ever used ASH colors. I have found the public is leery of ASH tones for some reason, I think it may be because they look at the swatch or listen to what it is and think something horrid.
    Just like BLEACH, ASH is your friend.
    All "ash" colors kills those underlying pigments most of you hate so much. When you look at it on a chart it looks very green and dirty, so it scares you, (I think) as a Colourist we all ADORE ASHes.
    They are a good Colorists "best friend".promise.
    Ash means the color has "greens" & "blues" in the base. Which probably sounds horrid to you right off the bat. BUT....BUT....
    To "CANCEL" objectionable tones-- what did we learn from the color wheel?
    Where do you go to do this?
    This is the most important part of that whole teaching.
    YOu go ACROSS the wheel. To the opposing color. That is the one and only way to cancel the colors you don't like.
    I am going to go over this once again in another post, as I feel its hard to absorb. Its a foreign concept - in more than one way!
    So if "orange" is the irritating tone...........across the color wheel is what color ?
    "BLUE" ...What tone has blue in it - at its base ? ASH.
    The tones from yellow to red which are so objectionable in blonde....are all canceled out by using Ash or MATT ( brand new category has more blue in it).
    red the other objectional color would also be cancelled out by
    Using an ASH,
    Ash has kind of a green-blue base to it.
    Green is across from Red.
    There are many variables in this world and I never met a blond I couldn't'fix...but it is not that cut & dry.
    If you were to bleach the hair to the golden stage, then you would tone it with a LEVEL 8ASH blonde - it turns out beautiful.. it really does.

    We're going to go one question at a time here so we both know what we are talking about.
    Does this makes sense to you?

    Now on question #2. You want to tone your highlights, sounds like you are using a straight semi permanent color, You MUST use a toner that is a DEMI PERMANENT COLOR.
    No you cannot use mix-tones for this, it will not work. You are using those in the total wrong manner...sorry, they are made ONLY to mix with and ONLY if you are a colorist and know your tones/hues and Levels really well. We use them to add a tiny bit to a color before we mix it all together when trying to achieve a special look they are not really for the public. I know very few Colorists that even use them because they don't understand. Its like being a painter, and understanding mixing all your own colors from scratch....as if you couldn't buy them made up.
    Some of us are like that we will mix every single hair color from scratch I find that terribly rewarding, but difficult to get exactly the same a second time. so you need to forget that and purchase the proper product. If you are in Europe can't you purchase Color Touch ? That would solve your entire problem.

    Killer Chemist

  21. VAng<
    I needed that.........
    I get all inside my head and have lost my perspective on a lot of shit....
    I really do

    I just cannot repeat myself over and over
    if I do then I get behind with answering all the comments and then writing new posts
    this shit isn't stored on a disk somewhere...I have to write it and I bet everyone knows one thing....I am sure not a damn WRITER, so that part is difficult for me....the info no----the writing> yes!

    I just hope people understand that is why I have them read this from the beginning.
    Its the only this will work for Everyone.
    Again, thank you for the support
    I spent the day at the hospital and it couldn't have come at a better time

    thank you so very much

  22. Marie,

    Thanks for being understanding


    Killer Chemist

  23. nice.. thanx for your answers..Although i must clarify a couple of things.
    1.I have used Ash colors.. it just doesnt make my color very ash especially in the roots where the virgin hair level is 5.It can do miracles on the other hair though.
    Do u have a special line that has very powerfull ashes?I used koleston perfect 10/89 for example and this is the best ash i have ever come across..but even this one makes my roots darker blond than the rest and with some red undertones.
    2.I didnt used mixtones on their own..i just followed the guidelines and used a little violet in my original tint just to make it a little better..
    You see the problem with me is that no matter what level of blond i try to be.. ALWAYS even after the use of only ash colors i have some warm undertones to my roots.I can never ever cancel out the warmth.The only thing that is good is that by the use of purple-green shampoos it does get better in time.But i have to say that my hair is always lighter to the lengths than the root,sometimes this looks a little funny.. :))
    this is why i believe that using bleach will help me achieve the same color allover my hair.but what do u do when you have hightlights ? even if i start using bleach on my root right now...i have hightlights on the top of my head while the back of my hair is just tinted with ash colored tints.it isnt wise to use bleach allover my hair right now is it?Because the hightlighted hair will be fried.

    And another question i seem to have about color tubes and the guidelines they want you to follow.
    They tell you to mix the 40vol develloper with the tint and leave it on the roots for about 30-45 mins and then use the rest of the tint (which has 40v dev) on the rest of the hair for another 10 mins..This doesnt make sense because the rest of the hair doesnt need lifting to use 40v dev..they just need something to deposit the color molecules on them.. like a 10-20 dev..Am i right ? So ,from what i ;ve read from this blog...we need to mix some tint with 40dev for the roots and some with 10-20 dev for the lengths and the tips.Right ?

  24. Pauline,
    yes, I have a Super powerful ASH...its made by Renbow and blows every other ASh OFF THE PLANET.

    I really dont like to answer these type of questions here, I need them to be asked and discussed in the COMMENTS section... so that I do not get repeat questions....this is something I have gone over a few times
    You must understand how difficult it gets answering the same questions

    I have another person asking this exact same thing right now

    And yes you are right about using the tint & 40 V on the roots and tint and 10V on the lengths.

    sometimes its used for a few short minutes to merely REFRESH...


  25. OK I AM losing it.

    the comments section.

    why isn't the other person seeing this?

    boy that was really really bad
    i'm such a loser
    really REALLY sorry

  26. Oh gosh, I'm not cut out to be a crib colorist! I was going for something a little darker than the gwen-platinum and following the instructions -- two bleachings in and my very stubborn ends of hair are in the yellowy-goldy stage but the rest is frightening gonna-melt white. Links to scary hair photos:
    Brace yourself...
    This is the result of having a natural level 7, dyed dark, and then a salon's poor job of trying to rectifying lifting and leaving it at the orange stage with highlights and lowlights-- but whatever.

    So how do I fix this situation? I don't think me or my hair could take another application of bleach. I have yet to tone it because the instructions said to get all the hair to the inside of a banana -- and not all of my hair is there. Can I go to a nice cool blonde from here? Permanent haircolor? Toner? Demi? Color recommendations?

    Wearing a hat for the next 6 years?

    (P.S I live in the boonies at college, hundreds of miles and hundreds of dollars away from a colorist.)

    Send help soon! Reply here or to jgoodwi3@ithaca.edu.

  27. Reposted the above in the google group!

  28. Pauline,
    I am trying to go back and make sure I have cleared up all the outstadning questions...are you completely happy with the answers? or do you need more help?
    It sounds as though bleach is the ticket for your problem ...there is a terrific new bleach with no ammonia -so it is very mild its by Redken and called Blonde Icing. That would most likely be your best solution.
    That or use Oil bleach on top...the oil helps the hair stay very conditioned.

  29. Hey Dakota!

    I was just wondering about the color charm developer (peroxide) bottle you have pictured here. I checked out the Sally Beauty supply website and on a closer look at the bottle, it says it's for "long lasting semi-permanent haircolor." I'm kind of confused now, because you said true semi-permanent haircolor doesn't come with peroxide. And is this peroxide? Cause this bottle is called "Color Charm Activating Lotion." What level of volume developer should I use with a demi-permanent haircolor?

    And I was also wondering if I can color my level one hair with a level 2 color... so it'll kind of have a brown hue to it. Will that work? Will that show any difference?

    Hope you've been doing well and having fun!! :D

    -Vang :D

  30. Vang,
    Wella's ColorCharm is "DEMI" permanent. Which does have a developer...and that is what is pictured.
    You should be just fine using Level 2 - if you can see brown in it .. you will be a better person than me...
    Many companies don't even make a LEVEL 1, because the distinction is so very very slight
    Go for it Vang.
    Buy barrier cream for the hairline... with that dark of tint... you will want to soften the hair line.
    {I probably need a post on that!}
    D ;-)

  31. Hey Dakota!

    I have all the ingredients ready for coloring. Just one other question. I found the Wella In-Depth Treatment. But sitting next to it was another product by Wella called "Regenal Instant PH Normalizing Lotion." I checked out the bottle, then went online and it says "A one-of-a-kind formula that helps stop the oxidation process after lightening, tinting, permanent waving or relaxing. Stop the chemical action and start the healthy restoration by using Regenal Instant pH Normalizing Lotion immediately following any chemical service."

    And for usage tips it says "After chemical service, normalize with Regenal, then restore moisture with In-Depth Treatment."


    I'm guessing Regenal is for PH balance, and In-Depth is for moisturizing? Which one should I get? Both? And how often should I use after coloring? Is it ok to use just regularly? Could this also work as an overnight deep conditioner?

    Thanks very much Dakota! Hope you've been havin fun!!

    -Vang :D

  32. Hey Vang,
    What did you go with?? the Demi in Level 2? In Color Charm?....Perfect.
    As far as Regenal:
    Yeah, I've read about, bought it, tried it, and never had the luck they "say" it does. Remember I've been at this shit for years! I still have a bottle, I don't see it. The IN DEPTH works and does MORE than it claims.I can't explain it - I don't believe in buying shit you don't need. IN DEPTH does it all and better than anything I've ever tried (except for my THRIVEN!).
    I did some more tests with bleach and swatches today...on the LEVEL 4 hair (thats as dark as I have) with various other reds - etc...they won't be posted for a day or 2 tho.
    Going that dark, its going to be messy...lay down old towels. Wear gloves ( surgical are the best)
    let us know

  33. I will definately let you know how it all goes down, haha...

    Ok... another question. I've read the instructions on the inside of the box, and it doesn't tell me HOW to rinse. I'm guessing... rinse with water (no shampooing?) until it runs clear, and then apply In-Depth?

    Thank you very much Dakota! I'm lookin forward to see the level 4 bleaching...

    Have fun and take care!

    -Vang :D

  34. HI.. actually we got wella koleston 2000 color cream for my mom.. she is gonna use a hair color for the first time in her lifetime.. but unfortunately we missed the instructions leaflet.. so could you please tell us how to use it step by step with any cautions to be taken place.. remember i don't have any instructions and my mom is gonna use it for the first time.. so tell me about the allergy test or something,etc,etc.. please.....

  35. This is one awesome post.Really thank you! Really Cool.


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