March 19, 2008

9 Steps to Take Seriously Befor Coloring Your Hair

9 Steps to Pray About Before You Color Yo' Hair

In order to color hair so it both covers gray and stays beautifully rich some of us have acquired tricks that we like to keep to ourselves. That way we keep a nice stream of clients filling our chairs on a regular basis.

Those tricks us pro's keep a secret were taught to us by our educators, now that I no longer have the capacity to work in that field -- I feel keeping those tricks "a secret" is a ridiculous way to be a "productive person" in Todays' society. What we were/are keeping a secret is "education" and what good is education if we are not using it to "teach others" ???  Therefore I made a very conscience decision to open up the vault of secrets of hair coloring to the public so many who live in remote areas or that simply cannot afford a talented Colorist may learn "on-their-own" to become a Crib colorist themselves and once and for all can finally achieve the beautiful and shiny hair color that they deserve.

 A point to remember ... the steps and ideas noted here are not taken into account when you purchase those boxed kits. So if none of them are taken into account, I simply do not understand how the manufacturers of those kits can assume the hair will be colored correctly.

They won't because there needs to be some education that people understand before they attempt to color their hair. Let me relate it to cooking once again. Lets say you have purchased a Rice-A-Roni Boxed kit in the grocery store. You take that home to make it, read the directions on the box ...follow them and have something pretty darn close to what the maker hoped you would. Otherwise, I can guarantee you would not keep continuing to purchase would be history, and why? There are lots of other boxed kits of food to chose from. Now, on that box of Rice-A-Roni it tells you to measure 1 Tablespoon of this and 1/2 teaspoon of that, and to bring to boil. Where did you learn what a Tablespoon is compared to a teaspoon? Where did you learn what a "boil" is ? cooking is chemistry as well ... just like hair color. Which is precisely my point within the boundaries of hair color, certain rules, or laws, or guidelines need to be known before the task is taken on so the result is not a disaster. 

No where does it say that on those boxes, it gives no instructions on hair type, texture, structure,prior hair color treatments, light, porosity, color saturation...none of that. Which is 'why' the results are most times atrocious. Why can't they all go to separate color and developer stations - with instruction sheets. That's all I am saying. I have never felt that the entire idea needs to be scrapped, I just think it all needs to be sold like it is in the beauty supply - separately - with a sheet of instructions. It does NOT work in a boxed kit, nor will it ever.....please STOP PURCHASING boxed color, so it will GO AWAY!

Every time I look at the new ads with Eva Langoria or Jennifer Lopez shouting the wonders of a $8.00 boxed hair color kit and how it has done this or that to their hair. Notice they are all wearing wigs!. Yep the wig has been colored by the $8.00 box of hair color. To prove my point take a look at one of Tina Fey's GARNIER Boxed hair color ads, then google a photo of her sans make-up and hair. She has thin shortish hair. . . . in the ads she has long super thick hair, they don't even make it hard to see anymore. I just want to scream this from the highest building!

 For the most important point there are a minimum of 4 colors in this look below, so how in the bloody hell can she even claim to use one box with one color in it, is beyond me. It makes me lose total respect for the women that choose to do these commercials or ads. They could choose to do another ad, do mascara, do foundation - Hell do shampoo, but to lie about what the color is on your hair? I couldn't do it myself I don't think.HellaciousHair037
I have done this exact look on others, when I do a stars hair I either sign a piece of paper called a Confidentiality Agreement or I verbally agree to one. Being a 31 year member of the Screen Actors Guild makes me stick to my word so I will not give out names - as I never have. So you will never hear who, you will just have to trust that its the truth. I know my information is top notch so I have no worries, no doubts & no guilt.

 A million dollar movie star has never ever put an $8.00 boxed kit on their hair, their Stylist,Colorist,Lawyer, Publicist, and Agent would not allow it...let alone the star. One move like that could destroy a perfectly gorgeous star's career, seen Rene Zellwegers hair lately? Thank the Hair Gods above for gorgeous wigs.

I have 2 words I'd like to define for you... they both are difficult to understand and explain, which is why I have been avoiding I begin the battle:

Porous: Describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb

Porosity: The hair's ability to absorb liquid or moisture

9 Steps to take seriously before coloring hair

1. What is Your Ethnic Group

This is a little trick learned from the Europeans I find handy . Because each type of hair responds differently to color, its important to understand the nature of the hair you have. Do you have Nordic, Celtic, Latin, Mediterranean, Asian, or African Hair. Refer to the 2 families of Hair charts below. Across the top are the LEVELS, the more you understand the Levels - the better for your success as a Home Pro Hair Colorist remember.


The number 1 color of hair in the entire world? .........BLACK

The most rare: RED
Just one more way of understanding how hair color works the best


2. Evaluate Your Hair Texture

Different weights and types of hair will respond differently when color is applied. Texture refers to the diameter of each shaft of hair, Usually categorized by fine, medium or coarse. It is essential to be familiar with how various textures of hair will react to color.Copy of vis319989 Hair density differs not only from one individual to another but also from strand to strand on the same persons head - to further confuse things. It is best determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers if you do not know your texture - give it a try. The 3 types of hair have the following characteristics

  • Very fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and more susceptible to damage than is coarse or medium hair. As a general rule fine hair will take color darker. Therefore when formulating, go one half to one level lighter will always be a good idea

  • Medium hair is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.

  • Coarse hair has the largest diameter which usually requires more processing than medium or fine and will take color lighter because of the resistance factor...formulate one half to one level darker. It is usually more difficult for lighteners, and color to penetrate.

  • The most difficult? Hair with a high degree of uneven porosity (see above) needs to be formulated with a partial portion of bottled color - helps with even-ness.

3. Hair Density

Hair density measures the number of strands of hair on the head, indicating how thick or thin the hair is. Individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities, I know - I know it all can be so damn confusing, just hang in there with me. Some individuals with fine hair texture, characterized by each hair having a small diameter, may have high density, with many individual hairs per square inch. Others with coarse hair texture, characterized by each hair having a large diameter, may have low density, with few individuals hairs per square inch.

4. Determine your Natural Level

Take a good close look to see exactly what color it is in its natural state, this will give you the information you need to plan the coloring process.

When in doubt about which exact color you are  - - - - - match your virgin hair with the charts in the "N" row of the Wella Koleston Perfect chart in the store. Or check out one of the

5. Determine the Amount of Gray Hair

Since white or gray hair acts differently with hair color than pigmented hair, even a home hair colorist must first assess the amount of gray present on their noggin'.

cooper8 If hair is more than 30 percent gray, choose your target level, use the "N" series on those charts again and now add the tonal group to the assessment. I have not gone into this to the depth I need to yet, but its coming... you will need to use the "N" series to implant the base in that colorless (gray) hair and the tonal choice will give it the warmth or coolness desired. If needed some haircolor from the "Beige/Brown series will also increase coverage of gray. A 20 Volume amount of hydrogen peroxide is always recommended for deposit in this area.

Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough.

If you are 80 to 100% gray, a haircolor within the blonde range is generally more flattering that a darker shade. Gray hair has many tricks and complications and deserves a post of its own and its on its way.

6. Have any Previous Hair Color Treatments

Whether or not you have previous color on your hair or not is the single most neglected and misunderstood step. I have the hardest time with getting through to people about this. This is another point that the boxed kits should point out immediately which they do not, the reason they don't? No one would purchase the stuff if it said that, there are figures like 85% of the country is now coloring their hair, so with a figure like that why wouldn't they WANT to put that on the Kit?

200499768-001 Be honest ... with you, with your hair, so many people put color on their hair and then think a stylist won't see it or can tell. Nothing is farther from the truth and nothing could be worse for the outcome of your hair. It affects the outcome - be real , be honest - all color on that hair counts unless its been cut off .

In my opinion hair color must be removed at all times if you are going lighter. Removed, not bleached. There is one and only one color remover I would recommend - it is a professional level color remover and a patented formula from Germany that at one time was known as MODULAT. --which is now called VANISH.  
 I guess there are some other knock-offs out there, that claim to do the same thing - who knew?? !! I'm finding out things even I didn't know with the life of this site. For color removing services in Malibu the prices started at $250. for 1 treatment, usually 2-3 are needed, the price of the product from Killerstrands is $33.00 and does not take a rocket scientist to operate. If you have interest in the item please send an email with "product order" in the subject header to

7. What Is The Result You Want?
Seem silly? You will not believe the amount of people that do not clarify this to themselves before heading to the Beauty Supply. Look through magazines, tear out pages of looks, comb through my sites...even though its been too much for me to do both...I still have an entire blog of photos only...and continue to get emails from people thanking me because they are current hot photos of hair, so look there ...its hooked up so you can download a very clear photo to your own computer. Print the photo out and think about the colors - look and style. Ask others for opinions and try not to make rash decisions. There is something about chicks and hair color and doing it - - - "NOW"- - I have newly discovered thru this site. Come on team lets try to put some proper preparation into this, its a pretty substantial change you are trying to make, I really don't recommend just stop-drop and rolling! Lets plan - prepare and execute, OK?

What is the exact color you want to achieve and how will you get there? Are you prepared for the maintenance work, which is one thing very few of you ever consider. How much maintenance and re-touching will this new color require? Can you handle it? Have you ever used foils? Ever used semi permanent Pink? Consider all the angles and cover what you need to know - prior to D-day or C-day I mean (color)!

8. The importance of the Right Light
Metamerism, which refers to the reflective property of objects as subjective to the type and power of light source, also effects the coloring of hair. How the room is lit where you make your decisions can make a huge difference in the way the color looks on your head and needs to be carefully planned and accounted for.

Do not look at your hair under fluorescent lights when dealing with hair color, it will just not be a happy ending. If you must get a lamp and purchase some incandescent lights with the whitest bulb possible to use just to determine and work with your hair coloring projects, you will thank me in the end. The most highly recommended lights are the halogen white lights, a bit pricier but the oooohooo color is slam-damit-right.

9. Plan for color Saturation
Dyes are different arrangements of molecular structures and tend to modify the light rays that fall on them. This phenomenon is known as color saturation.


It needs to be understood that the intermediate content in a tube or bottle is obviously dependent on the amount of depositing and saturation of color to achieve. The lighter the color level, the less intermediate it will contain. The darker the level, the more the content as you can see by the chart.
7 comments on "9 Steps to Take Seriously Befor Coloring Your Hair"
  1. heya:

    yh that was typo lool..if possible can u give the the formula (using the US version of koleston or whatever..etc)

    for the picture:

    or any other hair color brand i just need a general formula so i can use it as a dye (dont worry lol im not using my hair im using the dummy..etc) im just practicing the formulations...


  2. Veronica,
    Come on I just wrote a post as to how many factors needs to be taken into account to come up with a proper formulation...why didn't you read it?
    There is no one answer for one person.
    I keep telling you that.
    Which is why HAIR Color Kits do NOT work.
    Because they do not tell the people buying them to consider any of these factors. Which are imperative.
    To come up with the formula - I need a minimum of these questions answered....
    I need the:

    Virgin hair level:
    The Goal Level:
    Texture of hair:
    Is there any artificial hair color on the hair currently?
    Length of hair?
    Age of person?

    You must READ THE POSTS, or you will never learn
    I do not mean to be harsh, but come on -- girl...I spent a lot of time writing that post and its like you didn't even read it...
    That's hard for me to understand

    Answer all those questions and I will give you my best guess
    Killer Chemist

  3. OMG....i swear i did read....but i think u missunderstood me or didnt read my previous comment.

    Im not buying a box kit i jsut would like to achieve the color.

    The problem with the whole status of the current hair is that it's NOT my hair...what i did was took ur advice from a previous post and bought a training head dummy (the colouring hair verison not the cutting her version) so the problem with that is i dont know if the hair has been pre-colored..etc but this is what i can tell you.

    Virgin hair level: 5-6 (i dont know if its been coloured to this level...also please note i have already bleached to get it to a 10/11 pale yellow)

    The Goal Level: level 9/10

    Texture of hair: Medtiranenan Medium Thick

    Porosity: Normal

    Is there any artificial hair color on the hair currently? I dont know

    Length of hair? 16-18 inches

    Thickness? Medium Thick

    Age of person? I dont know

    Again, the reaosn i would like a formula for achieving this task is to train and i would like to practise formulating different blonde shades...(just on dummies)

    So i would like a formula for achieving this so i can use as a guide.

    Please reply thank you

  4. sorry the goal level is more like 10/11 depending on your computer's moniter i guess.


  5. OK, good so we are not rushing into anyone's hair randomly,
    I just cannot do that.

    Glad to hear that some of you have taken me up on purchasing DOLLHEADS, I love to hear that . . .they are a terrific form of learning and for the price I think a good deal as well. Make sure you speak to your source and ASK for the one they have with UNTREATED HAIR MADE FOR COLORING, they all make them.

    OK, the deal is, this is not one color, so you are going to have to deal with foils. Very few hair colors look smokin' with only one color. Platinum and Black and Red are about it...
    But you have chosen personally something I would use at least 4 if not 6 colors. That is why I laugh at that photo being on the front of that box, when that photo was shot, we have just spent a week perfecting that color using 7 colors, toners, conditioners, "after-treatments", all of it...
    then we spend a couple days on Photo Shop to perfect anything else we couldn't do naturally

    But anyway, I guess I've beat that subject into the floor.

    I would get yourself the strongest ASH's and MATTS that you can find. and then foil away.

    why can't you use Color Touch?

    Anyway here it is:

    9/8 9 Pearl Ash = 17 volume
    9N + 9 MATT 1/2 + 1/2 = 10 Volume
    10 AV Ash Violet = 17 Volume
    10 V = 10 Volume
    8M + 9 Ash = 20 volume (smallest amount of these)
    in between the foils ... I would apply the toner from the Color Perfect Line Called
    T 11 B Beige blonde + 20 Volume

    Depending on texture and what that hair is made of this formula would work on a level 8 normal textured head of hair - pretty well.

    Thanks, Killer Chemist

  6. WOOOW this is exactly what i was looking for ...gosh im so excited *giggles*

    Ill be taking pictures and sending them to u hopefully making u proud ...

    Off to mixing...:


    PS: the reaosn im not using color touch is i can get koleston really quickly (via friend)...btw ..did u see the knew COLOUR TOUCH PLUS ....i just saw it in their website (albeit UK site)...hmm i wonder if its any good.


  7. WOOOW this is exactly what i was looking for ...gosh im so excited *giggles*

    Ill be taking pictures and sending them to u hopefully making u proud ...

    Off to mixing...:


    PS: the reaosn im not using color touch is i can get koleston really quickly (via friend)...btw ..did u see the knew COLOUR TOUCH PLUS ....i just saw it in their website (albeit UK site)...hmm i wonder if its any good.



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