March 9, 2008

Peroxide -- Friend or Foe ?

Now that I have helped befriend our dear darling Peroxide, the inquisition continues. I went looking through my old notebook for the calculations on how to make different Volumes of peroxide for your Color Room out of 130 Volume .I forgot to mention even worse than my writing? My math. Boy, I rarely mention my main faults so early in the game but they are necessary here. I will give you what it says and you all can take it from there. Tho - I'd like a volunteer to field questions about the calculations - please sign up in the Comments section below. (my kids are just like me its a disease math-i-tis I think they call it). 

In addition, I'd like to fill in with what else I can about Hydrogen Peroxide to help you all warm up even more to the little bugger. There are many chemicals just like this little one, which is a terrific project that needs to be rescued by the big MFG. companies, I get my hopes up that big companies like P & G (whom actually I would love to work for > altho only on the "Green" side) might have researchers scoping the net trying to figure out the future of Hair.

Its easy, its possible and it can be done at reasonable prices. I swear to you I am just not too sure why it is not done now. What is better than a completely happy customer with Killer hair color. The way it is now the only reason people use those damn boxed color kits is because they are afraid to calculate the hair color themselves. I don't believe "fear-driven" success is near as prosperous as "confidant & successful" driven success

There was an instance I bet when I mentioned "chemicals" that blew that fear of "Word Phobia" through your bones, am I right? Be honest - people hear "chemicals" and think; bad - horrible - get them away from me thoughts, when in fact so much of what we need, we require and what we actually want are chemicals in our daily life. Of course there are "bad ones" and "good ones" and there are bad 'amounts' of them and good 'amounts' - that is the fine line that must be maneuvered

Chemicals are all around us, always, and always have been. We are made of chemicals, indeed chemicals R Us. The plants we eat are also full of chemicals. But how does the body deal with these chemicals and what do they do to us?

The chemical industry has been able to make the stunning revelation that everything is made of chemicals! Chemicals are in fact perfectly natural substances and we really need to do more research before throwing them out . Apparently thousands of the so-called 'natural' products of the earth are laced with nasty toxic substances, of which, of course, we were all unaware until this startling discovery was made known to human kind chemicals are not only man made and not all of the chemicals made by man are dangerous and not all of the chemicals found naturally are safe. Some people will say that there must be a difference between things made by chemists in laboratories and things found in nature? It is true, there are differences, natural chemicals are often more complex and chemists find some very difficult to make! For example DNA and proteins are extremely complex. But surely man made chemicals must be more poisonous? Not necessarily true. We won't go into the entire discussion here. I just needed to point out - what I stumbled upon when I began my dive into Cosmetic Chemistry. Being a Vegan and a natural food buff for my entire life (yep californians are weird!) it was a very unusual revelation to come to terms with. So just know I watch out for every single healthy avenue for hair - I truly do, I doubt you will ever encounter a hair stylist more in tune with the "natural" "organic" and "healthy" avenues than me, except for maybe those that don't believe in hair color at all. I also live under the umbrella of " life cannot be all that serious" - we must have some fun, because life is short - play hard.


Again: H2 O is Water: a chemical- bad? I think not. Necessary? Very. When the Developer begins working with your hair color it starts out with 2 atoms of hydrogen and 2 of oxygen as soon as it is combined with the hair color 1 of the oxygen molecules is given off and the product is down to what? H2 O! Water. And that is bad? See how things get out of whack? Peroxide is your friend, it really is.

Hydrogen Peroxide is the OXIDIZER of permanent haircolor-ing, providing the Oxygen for

  • lightening of natural pigment and for the

  • development of artificial pigment.

Those 2 lines say it all, but those are 2 jam packed lines. Read them over a couple times as this will put your mind in the right frame to continue on.


The percentage of lift in any color is directly related to its ammonia content ( remember many stylists will quote "ammonia content" as a bad thing), in the Killerstrands world I: look for LIFT. Lift means lightening - plain and simple - if you don't want to lighten hair, do something else....most decent Colorists are looking to lighten hair...we want more ways to lighten hair....we want more conditioning ways of lightening hair. Don't people want to be blond?.... have blond ribbons, blond pirouettes, or blond under color blocks?? Lightening is the most common coloring technique in the biz... Every single time a new lightening product is developed it is greeted with a very warm reception by 10's of thousands of hair stylists so ammonia content is a very necessary product.

Blondes are very very popular, whether in 1 Color 'all-over-blond' or blond placed in very creative ribbons in a dynamic head of brown. If you can attain the lightening, then you can control it -- or tone it, is my theory. I want as much lift as they can give me, let "me" control the amount I use and where I use it. Maybe they don't because of all the mis-information going on around, but come on... that problem is easily solved. The biggest complaint category of hair color is

  • "too brassy"

  • "too orange"

  • "too yellow"

  • "too gold"

....have you all learned this one yet? What would be the reason for these 4 complaints?

Not enough lift - if you have those 4 problems then you have taken the bleach off TOO SOON

So having more lift, while remaining more conditioning & moisturizing has finally hit the manufacturers.Try replacing your conditioner with a SOMA Spray In Dry Conditioner. Conditioners are heavy and hold down the hair, a spray in makes it less heavy, leaving it with more volume! We sell this on our website, check it out!

The 'way' that shampoos work, must be understood.........not simple

Remember me rambling on about SLS shampoos - I did for weeks on end...??? Remember? Sulfate-free shampoos....? ? ? ? Which by the way> every single company on the market has one in production. Well, the one and only reason I have the confidence to make that claim is because I do understand "how" the shampoo works each surfactant works and "how" each ingredient works. I have watched and breathed SLS and seen the damage it can do to a strand of hair...but Technicians do not have that advantage. What they do have is a company telling them whats in each of the shampoos, etc, and hopefully going on their advice. Its a wonderful library of information to have and I Love the fact that I was afforded the time to study all the chemicals and ingredients and know what they are and "why"! I know what everything is now when I look at it...THRIVEN will blow the socks off it - on 86% of the candidates.. So let's hope you are one of those chosen few where the stars meet the sky.

This industry should be setting the trends not lagging on them.The way the industry is now, Hair Color products are antiquated - archaic almost.. Hair color is a tremendously booming business - 2 $ billion a year is a very conservative estimate and the more tools the better for every Colorist: whether it be a Crib Colorist or Pro.

Why not put more tools in the hands of Home Hair Colorists? What's the big secret? There is plenty of hair color that needs to go around... why is there not a level of Pro Hair Color available for the women at home that don't live in LA or NY that desire the quality of hair seen on every magazine cover? There is plenty for the Salon Colorist, which is not available to CRIB COLORISTS - why not? There is so much room for growth - expansion and this subject needs to be talked about and discussed openly so that the women of America are able to achieve decent hair color in their own homes. For the many women that cannot afford or do not live near the high dollar hair salons...they are stuck using hair color products that are a much lower quality than the hair color if they go to Cosmetology School. Do you realize that there are lines of hair color that I may get in trouble for selling to the public - which I cannot figure out "why"?? Anyone care to address this subject with and for me...
How can it be against the law to sell 'certain' hair color?

To certain people?

Then all the hair color in Sally's need to be against the law to sell to the American people....which "brand" is OK? and which one isn't? more importantly - WHY???

Who sets those standards? There aren't any sort of laws.....or rules....or ???? Why can I not sell hair color that I have legally bought, to another person that would like to buy it ?? Because that person has not gone to Cosmetology School, what book is that a law in? That is the most bizarre restriction - ever . I looked in Sally's and the exact same thing is printed on a box of hair color in Sally's that is printed on a box of hair color from a professional company. BOTH of those companies are owned by the same larger company.....that larger company?
P & G. Proctor and Gamble. CLAIROL & WELLA
I'm not done reviewing : ammonia and peroxide so please put that subject in the "hold" category. I ran a whole new demo for Readers to show you what bleach with ammonia and bleach without ammonia did to Level 4 stand by.

5 comments on " Peroxide -- Friend or Foe ?"
  1. Hi....

    I see u mention ur conditoner THRIVEN a lot..i mentioned u make it do WE make it ? where do we buy the ingredients to conduct it ...? ive made moisturisers before so im really interested in formulating....i wondering if u can right a post about thriven in what is it ..why is it good....what does each ingredient provide...etc

  2. I just want to say I truly appreciate the valuable info you have on this blog...I wrote to you in late December asking for your help, and it seemed to be that I understood you but the language I used to identify hair colors and hair levels were a bit confusing for you. I tried to relay this to you but in the end I believe we both got frustrated. With that in mind I took what I read from the entire blog and made it work for me. I reciently decieded to check back on the blog and I'm pleased to see that you are using a much more friendlier approach,ease of language, in the explaining of the hair color process. It appears that this "friendlier" approach makes understanding this complex, although once you understand the information, rather easy to comprehend and execute. Thanks for bring this information down to earth for us non professional colorists. :)I will definately read this blog more often.

  3. I'm looking forward to the demonstration on ammonia and bleach.

    I also want that moisturizing developer by Redken!

  4. Lillian,
    I'm sorry but I worked on the formula for THRIVEN for a couple years, that is my secret and MY formula that I will never give matter what happens.

    It is 1 part of a 2 part>10 Step - hair loss Protocol> THRIVEN is one of the 2 main steps which need to work SYNERGISTICALLY with each other to reach the 84% success rate I quote.
    One of the main ingredients that I feel is so innovative :
    a very expensive little wonder from France

    most companies are using it for face and skin products, I found through many months of experimenting that even though it is expensive it CAN still be used on the hair and people will buy it. The reason the larger companies don't use it?
    Its ghastly expensive....

    it works

    there are so many weird and elaborate products you have tried to help your much have spent on those damn hair viatmins ?? That do not do 1 damn thing. Tons.

    THRIVEN and 10,000 Heads works. It doesn't do me any good to have people from here write in and give testimonials...
    I want new KILLERSTRANDERS to be my testimonials

    I doubt you will find a chemist - any where, that will give you their formulas, especially their successful formulations.

    There are 2 a sites to learn how to make hair products...I love them both...
    contact Angie at


    Jenny at

    Good Luck
    Killer Chemist

  5. Tiffani,
    I am sorry that I did that. I had one of our readers expalin to me that everyone will not learn anything if I don't slow down and take more time in dissecting the process of hair color, try to teach it as though I was talking to Aliens from another planet that had never heard of hair color before.
    I'm glad her approach has worked, I am still trying, and hoping I can improve on a very shaky attempt to teach this to the women and men of America!

    Another tip she gave slow down, I will get down what I do, and that will just have to be enough.

    my apologies
    killer chemist


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