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Sunday, April 6, 2008

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #4

Foil Work and Color Choices in applying Ribbons to Your Hair.
An easy technique applied to your own hair by yourself, I know...I used to do it all the time.


When doing foil work in front of a class we use different color foils for different colors within
the foils.....which I have done here, to make it easier for you to picture. In the

Blue foils = Lightener /bleach & 25 Volume


Pink Foils = Level 4 BRV + 17 Vol.


Orange Foils = Red 6RRV + 20Vol



I always try to use at least 2 - 3 or 4 Levels between each color when you want the color to stand out......the other way if you want it subtle..

This brown circle is the top of the head, I get many comments asking to explain myself in many different methods and ways. So here is another way...

i don't know that you can really see the method to my madness, without this !! Parting is a "key" to Ribbons and Slices






















Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #3

Across the very first section (above) , you will make an 1/8 - 1/4 '' part which is called a SLICE

the result is below. I am now noticing that I have not zeroed in enough on the parting I am afraid. Well, lets continue & see.
Slices are the Sassoon answer to Highlights.
Me, revealing that one sentence probably dis-owns me permanently from the inside world of Pro Sassoon-ers for the rest of my life.

Now in the very first parting {which involves the hair line surrounding the face} one must do something to 'soften' the harshness ...
a trick I have found helpful? Use the tail comb to separate out 2-3 little pieces of hair , this is how you work the new color into the virgin color. If that doesn'tmakes
Above is the first thin parting, below are the 2 little pieces of hair -- that will be tinted blonde







so above is the part . . . just a thin straight parting ... a "SLICE"

no little stripey highlights...

wait till you see the difference, in the outcome

Its why my business in the Salon ran circles around every others, no one could ever figure out ''why" my color looked different, it just did and it inferiorated them . . . I think you will see when Ronnie's foils are removed and her hair dried.

This is a very simple, very inexpensive technique and until now I never gave it away

so enjoy everyone

enjoy


No . . . we are not done . . . this is only 1/2 way through

I will make you Pro Colorists if its the LAST thing I do!

Killer Chemist

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #2

Page 2 - RIBBONS

Fig.1


Fig.2 With Ronnie being a pretty ordinary Level 7 , we decided to go for some spark, sparkle.....and contrast - so it would be able to be seen in photos for purposes of this Demo! ;-)
From Fig 1 we chose a Level 6 Red Violet
from Fig 2. we chose neutral blond which was accomplished by using bleach ( your friend - remember ??!!)
From the last chart we chose a Level 4 Brown-Red (very dark)



The red : 66/46 + 30 Volume
Most developer ratios are 2:1
One of the big differences in many color lines which also needs to be calculated into the 'quality' of the product. If you are using twice the developer than brand "B" it does not have the same coverage (its more watered down)



Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #1

Meet Ronnie . . .Watch Ronnie Rock Ribbons

I've completed another DEMO for you. This time I have torn apart the procedure of "ribbons" on yourself or your friend. I speak frequently about how outdated highlights { 'highlights are history' } are, and if I expect you to change then I need to teach you other techniques > this is the beginning.

The problem I have is with"BLOGGER" [this platform] it is virtually impossible to work with photos ..so please excuse that...nothing I can do about it. I need to move {come on Google; get it together}

Anyway, off we go.

Ronnie Ribbons decided to give herself some ribbons in the front of her hair, wanted to change things up , she has Level 6-7 NB (neutral blonde) hair. Applying color techniques to your own hair presents its own set of problems which every single hair stylist knows - oh too well ... which I plan on addressing as well.

You will want to gather all of your supplies... I highly recommend everyone purchase the Colorists Kit, we have added a couple basics


Use the color charts and photos to determine the look you would like to accomplish, this post is not about "formulating" . . . our mission? to teach "how" to put Ribbons in your hair and what they look like once applied.





Now, make the partings as you see here...which is basically a "VEIL". 2 pie shaped partings on each side of a center part. CLIP each side off, we are only going to do one side, plenty for now.







fig#1>>>>>>>>>






Next . . . Prep your Foils. I would not use kitchen foils, you must get hair foils, they are a completely different weight and not only prevent slipping, they prevent "leaking" which prevents spots and drips - - unacceptable in my eyes and should be in yours as well.
Prepping Foils:
Fold one edge under (fig.#1) . . . .then fold it again . . smoothing
so it is a DOUBLE fold. Every stylist on the planet has their own little trick for folding and applying foils... mine is from Annie Humphries and the classic Vidal Sassoon Colorist Technique, I doubt too many people would argue with that.















Because of Bloggers strange configuration, which I don't feel like battling today, I am going to put this up in a number of smaller posts today all day long, so stay tuned. . ." !!!

Its long and hopefully educational - so if you have any questions at all and want them answered "LIVE" Today . . .I am right here . .
and will answer them

Monday, March 31, 2008

Slather Those Strands: For Those Who Require Lots 'o Lipids

Killer Kritiques  #001

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One of the advantages of being on the inside of the professional hair world is listening to dozens of stylists opinions on hair products, which helps when looking for something new. There is no possible way to give every product that comes out a trial run, my Lord, you would have to quit hair and solely test products with the amount that come out every week. I'm sure you all know this, every time you head to the beauty supply there is a whole new slew of "new-innovative products" waiting for you to buy, problem is - without a review of them you are taking a risk..could be a winner, could be a loser and more times than not its the latter.

In my attempt of learning what and how I should roll with this site I periodically go hunting through 'other' beauty blogs. Maybe I hit the wrong ones, I try to hunt & peck randomly I swear, but so many just seem to do nothing but introduce and review products and nothing else, which I am sure gets them tons of new free crap. This week I received my first couple boxes of "new free crap" ( I mean 'crap' in a good way) a sign to me that it was time to start reviewing products as well. I want to be a well rounded, well balanced and well-read web site so we are off and running with the new segment: Killer Critiques.

Hair is a surprisingly large and influential category in the business world, they try to keep it hush--hush, but as a stylist and now with this Blog I am reminded of how big on a daily basis the importance of hair products, hair styles, hair color - all of it is very influential on many aspects of the economy, as lame as that seems. Howard Stern was on Letterman said, "until I have Proctor and Gamble advertising on my program I will never feel like a force to be reckoned with." Even a rebel like Stern yearns for the P & G (hair) dollar, I nearly fell of my chair.

That being said lets head off into the world of product review sassoon_pic_5026_0_sl . . . I have learned over the years  (and used it as one of my killer secrets ) there are 2 categories of hair products that are almost always excellent for all hair, pay attention: and that is products for ethnic & curlie hair

I can almost guarantee you up front, that if you pick a product from those 2 categories it will (almost) always rock. The chemists for those products, formulate  products differently, using a few key ingredients that are moisturizing - reparative and conditioning plus they update their products more frequently as new ingredients are released - when your production is not as large it is not such a huge undertaking to update them, that's why I can say that. So when shopping if the choices are so vast and so confusing, there is a tricky little technique for narrowing down your selection.

 

  Killers first Kritique ? Deva Care's "poo-less" shampoos and curlie haired conditioners. ! This line of products was originally designed for CURLY haired customers and caught on to the sulfate-free deal a long time before the rest of the crowd.

 

Deva Care: Curly Hair Products ; a Force To Be Reckoned With

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Whether your hair is curly, wavy, straight or chemically processed, this line has expanded and now even contains a wacky looking hair dryer/ diffuser for curly hair . Choose from DevaCurl, DevaColor or DevaCare, and let your hair enjoy the benefits of botanically infused and sulfate-free technology

DevaCurl - Botanically infused, 100% sulfate-free cleansers, conditioners and stylers. Great for all hair types

DevaColor - Botanically infused, 100% sulfate-free and color enhancing cleansers and conditioners. For natural, color treated and chemically processed hair.

DevaCare - Color preservation. Botanically infused, 100% sulfate free, vitamin C enriched cleansers, conditioner and stylers. Great for all hair types.

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Deva’s interchangeable product line allows for individuality, simplicity and the freedom to address your hair’s specific needs.

Americans are addicted to lather ...laundering curly hair (which is what most people are doing with ordinary detergent shampoos) just about guarantees a mass of over-dry, frizzy, shapeless locks.” That’s why Lorraine, along with co-owner Denis daSilva, world-class chemist Ralph Zissel and Devachan’s acclaimed Color Director Shari Harbinger developed the Deva product line. This unique system, with it’s own unique blend of botanically infused moisturizers and cleansers, will rejuvenate, restore and respect your hair’s natural order without the use of harsh chemicals.

 

Delicate Cy-Curl... No-Poo's gentle rescue formula for frizzy, unmanageable curls, cleans and conditions very dry, damaged hair and scalp. DevaCurl restores your hair to healthy, bouncy curls and healthy bouncy strands, refreshingly scented with Peppermint and Turkish Rose.

 

New for the line are the conditioners, most specifically the deep one Heaven In HAIR - -  which is awesome....I tried this myself and as the proud owner of TKHFH  {tangle-y knot-ty hair from hell} I knew with the ingredients it had  there was the prospect of smooth hair and it produced exactly what I predicted. Give it a shot if you suffer from the same or have the standard curly frizzy hair that needs moisture.

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Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?