Hair Today - Gone Tomorrow -- Female Pattern Baldness

For women, balding or hair loss has more serious consequences for quality of life than for men
Dealing with this issue in droves has indebted me to the degree of difficulty this problem is posing for a huge portion of the women in America today. To date . . it is not spoken openly about, addressed regularly, or even reported on with much interest and I'm not sure why. One thing I know for sure, is that it is a HUGE huge problem and it is only getting worse - by the month - by the week - by the day. It concerns me deeply so approx. 4 years ago when I first noticed it growing out of control, I began my research. Casual at first, intense as the days went on.
I know I am not a whiz bang MIT trained research scientist, about the farthest thing from...BUT, I have worked on over 10,000 heads of hair, spent 3 years studying cosmetic chemistry, learned the art of microscopic hair analysis and most importantly had the problem myself and owned hundreds of clients with it as well - that are now completely cured. A pretty decent resume and history in my own mind, I guess and hopefully in yours.
I'd like to begin the next couple months ongoing series of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow with my experiences reading and analyzing a particular study performed in Japan that I found extremely helpful & hopeful. This study examines the efficacy of the hair growth promoter t-flavanone on female pattern baldness. Now before I lose you, I better bring it on down to earth . . Over 2000 natural plant extracts were tested
as an herbal medicine that promote the proliferation of hair follicle cells. t-flavanone is more commonly known as Hypericum Perfortum and has been regarded as a salve, a gargle and an herbal tea with an excellent robust effect.
The types and degrees of hair problems for women vary with country and races, however they can be roughly classified into 2 groups: frizzy & less volume. The reports are that fewer women than men suffer sever alopecia (hair loss)but for many women the hair density and hair diameter decrease as they grow older. Reductions of hair volume have a great impact on appearance.
For women, balding or hair loss has more serious consequences for quality of life than for men. On
e characteristic of hair loss in females is a widespread and diffuse balding area that differs considerably from male pattern baldness and makes it more difficult to diagnose alopecia in women. Its the manner in which the hair is lost that is deceiving. . . men lose up the power alleys, on top of the head and along the hairline so it is noticed much more. With women it is an all - over even loss of hair - much more difficult to notice by the eye. The woman herself of course, notices, the ponytail is thinner, the general bulk of the hair continues to deteriorate.
The hair cycle consists of three phases. In the anagen or growth phase, hair matrix cells grow rapidly, extending the hair shafts. In the catagen phase, hair matrix cell growth is diminished and epithelial cells around hair bulbs undergo apoptosis (death of cell). In the telogen or resting phase, hair follicles shrink and stop growing.
The anagen period of normal human hair growth is as long as 4-7 years, but is some kinds of alopecia, it gradually become shorter and finally decreases to only a few months. As a results, the hair does not grow to be hard, thick terminal hair, but remains as thin, short vellus hair and enters the catagen phase. I have learned that thick hair is produced during the anagen so it is important to act on hair follicles during that phase to improve hair volume. To make hair thicker for effective hair growth promotion is is necessary to increase anagen hair and also to maintain the anagen period of each hair follicle.
Previous work by Kao Corporation in Japan and one scientist named HOTTA has identified both a planet extract with hair follicle stimulation activity and an in vitro model for testing the effect of factors on the developmental processes of the hair follicle.
Now this is the part I found fascinating, in order to determine the efficacy of the t-flavonone to treat female baldness the authors in Japan performed a double blind placebo controlled study on 23 Japanese women.
Based on the authors system of classifying female pattern baldness with scores from I to VIII ( Figure 4)
the women received scores from II to VI. 13 were assigned to the group treated with t-flavonone and another 10 women were assigned to the placebo group.Test materials for this study were lotions with and without the t-flavanone active ingredient at .1%. Subjects applied lotion twice daily for 24 weeks to all scalp areas around the balding area ( the parietal area).
From a square 5mm by 5mm in the parietal area at the beginning and end of the 24-week test, the hairs were removed at the scalp surface by cutting. The cut hairs were weighed and counted and the hair diameter was measured. The weight of the hair treated with
t-flavanone was found to increase by 9.4% while that of the placebo decreased by 4.7%. This result was statistically significant. With regard to the number of hairs the hair diameter the group with the t-flavonone tended to improve more than the placebo group.
A much larger efficacy study happened next with 54 women selected with significant hair loss levels. This time 28 with the t-flavonone and 26 in the placebo. The time frame was the same, but this time photographs were taken, a Phototrichogram was performed on each subject ( see inset)which basically measures the diameter of the hairs and finally Dermatologists evaluated the general effectiveness of the 2 treatments.
As shown in Table 1, 22 of the 28 subjects in the t-flavonone treated group were evaluated as improved by visual evaluation ( 19 were improved slightly, 2 were improved clearly), while only 7 of the 26 in the placebo group were classified as improved (ya gotta wonder about those?!!!?!?) checkout the great example in Figure 5
While the average diameter of all hairs from the observation spots significantly increased by 13% in the group treated with t-flavonone, it decreased in the placebo group by 5.0% The average diameter of anagen hairs also increased by 12% . Both of those difference are statistically significant.
Figure 6 shows the results of the dermatologists judgements on general effectiveness: 82% of the group treated with t-flavonone and 27% of the placebo group were evaluated as slightly effective or better. The differences are statiscally significant. I just think this is such an easy - simple solution and why it is not in many formulations is beyond me.
THRIVEN and 1 of its secret ingredients : T-flavonone
I have incorporated t-flavonone into THRIVEN taking advantage of its colorless, odorless and ethanol soluble properties making it easy to use. I feel the formula needs to be on the head overnight 1-2 nights per week and if possible used as a daily conditioner as well. Whether it be T-Flavonone or a number of other unique ingredients in the formulation the fact remains the 1-2 punch of 10,000HEADS - Hair Strength System works and works well, I hope to get many of you signed up to the protocol.
This is one of the many unique approaches I have taken to the formulation of Thriven, it is unique, innovative and ground breaking. I have this on my website to purchase! Get it!
Conclusions
These studies prove that t-flavonone increases the diameter of female hair and thus improves female pattern baldness. t-flavonone is a useful ingredient that can help women who are troubled with hair loss or lair with less volume. The usefulness of the t-flavonone lotion to treat female type baldness was 82% and that is revolutionary.
Therefore THRIVEN is revolutionary
THRIVEN comes in an 8 ounce jar : $52.00
attached is a card that explains 2nd secret supplement for the 1-2 Punch

For purchase Email: Killerstrands@gmail.com
Purchase Thriven :

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/thriven

Smart Sally Sells Simple Shampoo - Hershberger Hails Healthy Hair

Sally Hershberger - one of few I truly and highly admire

Here is a partial review from the L.A.Times . . . I have not tried the products yet, when I do I will tack my own review on to the end, and will try to complete within a couple weeks.

LA TIMES:
Thank goodness star stylist Sally Hershberger's hair care line is a more reasonable price than her hair cuts.

SHE may be the hair stylist to the stars, and a reality TV star in her own right, but Sally Hershberger wants to get her hands on the heads of ordinary Americans. Her new hair care line, Sally Hershberger Supreme Head, includes 14 moderately priced items sold exclusively, for now, at Walgreen's. Shampoos and conditioners are $9.50, while styling products are $12 -- about half the price of a prestige product, and of course, far, far less than Hershberger's $800 haircuts.

Hershberger, a shag specialist with a monthlong waiting list, judge on Bravo's "Shear Genius" and stylist to Brad Pitt, Jane Fonda, Hillary Clinton, Tom Cruise and, most famously, Meg Ryan, says she is letting the rest of us in on the secret to her tousled 'dos."I always felt that 50% of hair looking good is from what you put in it," she said on a recent swing through L.A. And, apparently how you put it on: To that end, you can click on Sallyhershberger.com and watch the master demonstrate how each product can achieve particular looks.

Want a hip pixie? Rub in Wreck and Roll Texturizing Cream. Gorgeous waves, just like Gisele Bündchen? Maintain volume with a dose of Style Primer for wavy hair and a blow dryer's diffuser attachment. "Sally's Signature Shagg" comes to life with Style Primer and Shagg Spray, followed by an apparently random blow-drying, picking and tousling.The demos help. Although the lightly fragrant shampoo creates a high-sudsing, long-lasting clean, and the thick conditioner tames some frizz, they're not "wow" products is the review by the L. A. Times Writer.

Me? Haven't gotten my hands on them yet, but am in process and will tack on my own review after experimenting. But from what I know of her - her standards - her mission - her theories, I would be first in line to try these wonderfully priced items and I commend her for making a great product avaiable to the everyday client.

Celeb-hairology - Hair Trends of Rich and Famous

The newest look,

I say . . . DO IT

its a remarkeable change and updates your look

Holy Roller Commandments of Sinfully Rich Hair Color

9 Steps to Pray About Before You Color Yo' Hair

In order to color hair so it stays nice and beautifully rich some of us have acquired tricks that we like to keep to ourselves. That way we keep a nice stream of clients filling our chairs on a regular basis. A point to remember ... the steps and ideas noted here are not taken into account when you purchase those boxed kits. So if none of them are taken into account, I simply do not understand how the manufacturers of those kits can assume the hair will be colored correctly.



They won't because there needs to be some education that people understand before they attempt to color their hair. Let me relate it to cooking once again. Lets say you have purchased a Rice-A-Roni Boxed kit in the grocery store. You take that home to make it, read the directions on the box ...follow them and have something pretty darn close to what the maker hoped you would. Otherwise, I can guarantee you would not keep continuing to purchase it...it would be history, and why? There are lots of other boxed kits of food to chose from. Now, on that box of Rice-A-Roni it tells you to measure 1 Tablespoon of this and 1/2 teaspoon of that, and to bring to boil. Where did you learn what a Tablespoon is compared to a teaspoon? Where did you learn what a "boil" is ? cooking is chemistry as well ... just like hair color. Which is precisely my point within the boundaries of hair color, certain rules, or laws, or guidelines need to be known before the task is taken on so the result is not a disaster. Nowhere does it say that on those boxes, it gives no instructions on hair type, texture, structure,prior hair color treatments, light, porosity, color saturation...none of that. Which is 'why' the results are most times atrocious. Why can't they all go to separate color and developer stations - with instruction sheets. That's all I am saying. I have never felt that the entire idea needs to be scrapped, I just think it all needs to be sold like it is in the beauty supply - separately - with a sheet of instructions. It does NOT work in a boxed kit, nor will it ever.





Every time I look at the new ads with Eva Langoria shouting the wonders of a $8.00 boxed hair color kit and how it has done this





to her hair, I want to scream bloody murder. For the most important point there are a minimum of 4 colors in this look, so how in the bloody hell can she even claim to use one box with one color in it, is beyond me. It makes me lose total respect for the women that choose to do these commercials or ads. They could choose to do another ad, do mascara, do foundation - Hell do shampoo, but to lie about what the color is on your hair? I couldn't do it myself - and I need the money, they don't.





I have done this exact look on others, when I do a stars hair I either sign a piece of paper called a Confidentiality Agreement or I verbally agree to one. Being a 31 year member of the Screen Actors Guild makes me stick to my word so I will not give out names - as I never have. So you will never hear who, you will just have to trust that its the truth. I know my information is top notch so I have no worries, no doubts & no guilt. A million dollar movie star has never ever put an $8.00 boxed kit on their hair, their Stylist,Colorist,Lawyer, Publicist, and Agent would not allow it...let alone the star. One move like that could destroy a perfectly gorgeous star's career, seen Rene Zellwegers hair lately? Thank the Hair Gods above for gorgeous wigs.





I have 2 words I'd like to define for you... they both are difficult to understand and explain, which is why I have been avoiding them...today I begin the battle:





Porous: Describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb





Porosity: The hair's ability to absorb liquid or moisture





9 Steps to take seriously before coloring hair





1. What is Your Ethnic Group





This is a little trick learned from the Europeans I find handy . Because each type of hair responds differently to color, its important to understand the nature of the hair you have. Do you have Nordic, Celtic, Latin, Mediterranean, Asian, or African Hair. Refer to the 2 families of Hair charts below. Across the top are the LEVELS, the more you understand the Levels - the better for your success as a Home Pro Hair Colorist remember.











The number 1 color of hair in the entire world? .........BLACK





The most rare: RED
Just one more way of understanding how hair color works the best







2. Evaluate Your Hair Texture

Different weights and types of hair will respond differently when color is applied. Texture refers to the diameter of each shaft of hair, Usually categorized by fine, medium or coarse. It is essential to be familiar with how various textures of hair will react to color. Hair density differs not only from one individual to another but also from strand to strand on the same persons head - to further confuse things. It is best determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers if you do not know your texture - give it a try. The 3 types of hair have the following characteristics

• Very fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and more susceptible to damage than is coarse or medium hair. As a general rule fine hair will take color darker. Therefore when formulating, go one half to one level lighter will always be a good idea


• Medium hair is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.


• Coarse hair has the largest diameter which usually requires more processing than medium or fine and will take color lighter because of the resistance factor...formulate one half to one level darker. It is usually more difficult for lighteners, and color to penetrate.


• The most difficult? Hair with a high degree of uneven porosity (see above) needs to be formulated with a partial portion of bottled color - helps with even-ness.

3. Hair Density

Hair density measures the number of strands of hair on the head, indicating how thick or thin the hair is. Individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities, I know - I know it all can be so damn confusing, just hang in there with me. Some individuals with fine hair texture, characterized by each hair having a small diameter, may have high density, with many individual hairs per square inch. Others with coarse hair texture, characterized by each hair having a large diameter, may have low density, with few individuals hairs per square inch.

4. Determine your Natural Level

Take a good close look to see exactly what color it is in its natural state, this will give you the information you need to plan the coloring process.

When in doubt about which exact color you are match the hair with the charts in the "N" row of theX.Factor Chart or the LANZA charts

5. Determine the Amount of Gray Hair

Since white or gray hair acts differently with hair color than pigmented hair, even a home hair colorist must first assess the amount of gray present on their noggin'.





If hair is more than 30 percent gray, choose your target level, use the "N" series on those charts again and now add the tonal group to the assessment. I have not gone into this to the depth I need to yet, but its coming... you will need to use the "N" series to implant the base in that colorless (gray) hair and the tonal choice will give it the warmth or coolness desired. If needed some haircolor from the "Beige/Brown series will also increase coverage of gray. A 20 Volume amount of hydrogen peroxide is always recommended for deposit in this area.

Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough.

If you are 80 to 100% gray, a haircolor within the blonde range is generally more flattering that a darker shade. Gray hair has many tricks and complications and deserves a post of its own and its on its way.

6. Have any Previous Hair Color Treatments

Whether or not you have previous color on your hair or not is the single most neglected and misunderstood step. I have the hardest time with getting through to people about this. This is another point that the boxed kits should point out immediately which they do not, the reason they don't? No one would purchase the stuff if it said that, there are figures like 85% of the country is now coloring their hair, so with a figure like that why wouldn't they WANT to put that on the Kit?





Be honest ... with you, with your hair, so many people put color on their hair and then think a stylist won't see it or can tell. Nothing is farther from the truth and nothing could be worse for the outcome of your hair. It affects the outcome - be real , be honest - all color on that hair counts unless its been cut off .





In my opinion hair color must be removed at all times if you are going lighter. Removed, not bleached. There is one and only one color remover I would recommend - it is a professional level color remover and a patented formula from Germany that at one time was known as MODULAT. I still call it that. I guess there are some other knock-offs out there, that claim to do the same thing - who knew?? !! I'm finding out things even I didn't know with the life of this site. For color removing services in Malibu the prices started at $250. for 1 treatment, usually 2-3 are needed, the price of the product from Killerstrands is $33.00 and does not take a rocket scientist to operate. If you have interest in the item please send an email with "product order" in the subject header to Killerstrands@gmail.com .





7. What Is The Result You Want?
Seem silly? You will not believe the amount of people that do not clarify this to themselves before heading to the Beauty Supply. Look through magazines, tear out pages of looks, comb through my sites...even though its been too much for me to do both...I still have an entire blog of photos only...and continue to get emails from people thanking me because they are current hot photos of hair, so look there ...its hooked up so you can download a very clear photo to your own computer. http://www.killerpics.blogspot.com/ . Print the photo out and think about the colors - look and style. Ask others for opinions and try not to make rash decisions. There is something about chicks and hair color and doing it - - - "NOW"- - I have newly discovered thru this site. Come on team lets try to put some proper preparation into this, its a pretty substantial change you are trying to make, I really don't recommend just stop-drop and rolling! Lets plan - prepare and execute, OK?











What is the exact color you want to achieve and how will you get there? Are you prepared for the maintenance work, which is one thing very few of you ever consider. How much maintenance and re-touching will this new color require? Can you handle it? Have you ever used foils? Ever used semi permanent Pink? Consider all the angles and cover what you need to know - prior to D-day or C-day I mean (color)!

8. The importance of the Right Light

Metamerism, which refers to the reflective property of objects as subjective to the type and power of light source, also effects the coloring of hair. How the room is lit where you make your decisions can make a huge difference in the way the color looks on your head and needs to be carefully planned and accounted for.

Do not look at your hair under fluorescent lights when dealing with hair color, it will just not be a happy ending. If you must get a lamp and purchase some incandescent lights with the whitest bulb possible to use just to determine and work with your hair coloring projects, you will thank me in the end. The most highly recommended lights are the halogen white lights, a bit pricier but the oooohooo color is slam-damit-right.

9. Plan for color Saturation

Dyes are different arrangements of molecular structures and tend to modify the light rays that fall on them. This phenomenon is known as color saturation.





It needs to be understood that the intermediate content in a tube or bottle is obviously dependent on the amount of depositing and saturation of color to achieve. The lighter the color level, the less intermediate it will contain. The darker the level, the more the content as you can see by the chart.