July 10, 2008

Faces Full of Fringe <> BANGS - Billions & Billions of Bangs if you must

Transform Your Look with a Brand New FRINGE






Transform your look with a Fringe


they are XXXtremely Sexy and can help to accentuate your features
There is hardly a face that cannot pull off some form of the favorite face framing technique
Consider the largest fringe you EVER have, that's current and wham-bamn - - can you handle it

I will do a DEMO on a mannequin to teach you how to trim your own >> in between Salon visits - any requests?


{In the U.S. we call them Bangs - I refuse to call them that Un-Godly name - FRINGE is the proper name - PERIOD - I hearby annoint all Killerstranders the right to begin changing the term - right here and right now > in the states}
June 30, 2008

The 10 Habits that will Destroy Your Hair - Yes, AGAIN !

You Want Hair Like This ? ? ?
 




Then You Must NOT practice any of these habits...they are all proven hair destroyers!
 



              Any Questions ? ? ? ?

killer chemist
June 23, 2008

Win Cool Prizes for Home Hair Color Contest

Crib Colorist = Home Hair Colorist


Crib Colorist Award = Win Cool Prize for Diary of Your Home Hair Color Adventure
















June 20, 2008

DEMO - How To Go From Platinum to Brown Slowly > "Tint Back'' to Natural - 2 stages



Tint Back to Natural – 2 stage Process - STAGE 2








Base + Slices Technique








This will be my last “re-run”: repeating what I have already written, I just find this is not easy for me. Having 257 ‘Posts’ under my belt, I have found that I try to write as if I was talking to you, to try to make my words sound better








That’s part of the stumbling block for good Blogs I think. Everyone wants a great writer at the helm, but if that’s what you have then that is most likely their specialty. . .”WRITING”, not beauty, or skin, or sports, or guns or hair or whatever. So I feel if you want a great informative blog, authored by a specialist in ‘whatever’ category…such as hair, make-up, skin, guns, politics, most likely they are not a Pulitzer prize winning author, most likely they are like me – because their specialty is their focus, not writing. Having never spent any time learning to write properly, is only because I have been busy learning other things along life’s path, not because I didn’t care. My salon clientele used to come to me just to listen to me talk about everything I knew about hair, I’m passionate about everything I do, so I hoped that if I mimic that experience in writing, it would not come out too objectionable…but to have to repeat it all again?…errr grumble-grumble, terribly frustrating for me. It’s almost over.


Thinking about the reasons this method is so successful for you, who want to go from blonde back to natural, or some morph of it, reminded me the reason clients like you like this method so much. You are used to the most high maintenance hair there is… a Bleach n Tone…it takes the most frequent touch-ups, toners & care. Then, to go from that to straight 1 color brown, is not interesting enough to most of you - so this intermediary version satisfies many of your urges and desires for fun and fascinating hair! This way you can plan your next color choices, some end up putting red-violet slices in the mix or copper even, which adds to that overall ‘fun and fascination’ !


Lets Begin


Tools
  • Towels

  • Plastic clips

  • Tail comb

  • Cutting comb

  • Old shirt/cape

  • 3 Plastic or glass bowls

  • Gloves

  • 3 Tint brushes

  • In-Depth – Wella Treatment

  • Shampoo

  • Detangler

  • Liquid Hair Restructurizer

  • Timer

  • Selected 3 Colors & Developers
Formulations


  • Wells Illumina 7/35+ 13 Volume

  • Blondor Crème Bleach + 10 Volume ( only applied to the new growth -- NOT the lengths)

  • Wella Illumina 8/38 + 15 Volume



Preparation

PATCH TEST

1. Perform a preliminary PATCH test, 24 hours prior to the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. If you are an allergic person I would highly encourage this step. It needs to be done with every ‘new’ brand and product you apply to you head. For instance, If you use Renbow’s Colorissimo (permanent tube color) the decide to use the RenColor (permanent bottle color) for something else, yes the patch test needs to be run again. PATCH – SKIN.

STRAND TEST

2. Perform a Preliminary STRAND Test. This should always be done as soon as you get the color you are planning to use. It’s a test run….a vision of what it will be like when finished, don’t be too lazy or think you know what results will be. Part off ½-inch square strand of hair in the lower crown – underneath – (not at the very bottom). Use a foil to hold the strip of hair and apply a small mixture of the color. Check it at 15 minutes, then at 25. Note the timing down on a card. STRAND-HAIR.



3. Remove jewelry – apply cape or these great small capes we carry ......


Mini Cape by Salonchic




Procedure



This is where you should start looking at the posted photos down the right side of this post, begin at the top and just glance at each one on the way down. Then read thru steps and compare to photos -- you are not given the capacity to line them up (with the words) – sorry.



Take “Before” “During” & “After” Photos (minimum 6), remember you can win the CRIB COLORIST AWARD, “if” you document your own hair color adventure. Hair Color needs to be from Killer Strands. Noting formula’s, techniques, trials & tribulations, ** what you learned new from Killer Strands Blog & the Killer Strands Group. Post the whole thing: story (minimum 1000 words) & pictures on a page in the group ( ask for help from T, Detour, Nik or myself if needed). When this is done YOU win the Crib Colorist award. It doesn’t need to be correct or special or anything, you just need to document it all for us to view, to win.

The PRIZE? ? ?
THE CRIB COLORIST AWARD which includes a gift from Killer Strands that includes:

  • Hair Color Key

    o Carbon Combs: 1 tail comb & 1 cutting comb

    o 4 oz. Measuring cup

    o Shampoo Sprayer for sink

    o 2 Tint bowls

    o 2 Tint brushes

    o 2 Tubes FREE COLOR - whatever your brand is !

  • 1. Part & Section hair is always the first step in all procedures & techniques. On this we will only be parting NOSE TO NECK > Part 2: Section-off the top which is the basis for all wonderful color work including ribbons, slices, the veil, almost every great technique. Sassoon does this differently than any other hair school, so pay attention. Part into even pie shapes or triangles on either side of the center part. PRACTICE THIS, because it needs to be perfect à EVEN à and not sloppy. Have you gotten your doll head yet? Get one; they have men, women + every length of hair. If enough of you get them I will take you through an elementary cutting class. Let me know.

  • 2. Fold your Foils, I’m trying to get a hold of foils I can carry for you, at a decent price. Remember a double ¼” fold at the top of one side.

  • 3. Prepare the color formulations, be all ready to go before you actually mix them up, and remember the color is best when used immediately. For this we are using 7/35 + 13Volume Wella-Illumina {or use your own color formulation at this point}. Crème Bleach (most mild there is) + 10 Volume depending on the amount of lift needed. Last, Wella Illumina 8/38 - 15Volume * * * * RETURN TOPS TO ALL DEVELOPERS * * * *. The idea here being to use 2 light brown colors to some thin slices on either side of the head/hair, to begin the re-introduction of darker colors to the hair and your vision.

  • 4. Put on Gloves, have comb, foils and bowls lined up and ready to go. Line up mirrors if your tackling this yourself. Its actually made to apply to yourself there is basically no work on the back side of the head!

  • 5. Begin on one side, hold the section of hair and take your FIRST slice of hair a super-thin slice of hair à AT AN ANGLE -- ½ inch from the front with tail comb.

  • 6. To “test” the proper angle of your section, you should stick a comb in the middle of the section back to the apex of the parting in the back.

  • 7. Press the foil down to the scalp, slip it under the slice of hair, lay the hair down, and paint on the Level 8/38 -- covering completely all the hairs. Starting with the lightest Color first, so there is not a dark stripe right at the front next to your face.

  • 8. Continue the next one leaving a ½ to ¾ inch of hair alone in between {this is very hard to say use your best judgment} some people have small heads and ¾” would be WAY too much, this all depends on the size of your head. Look to the photos to see how I did it on Molly’s head of hair. Spacing the foils according to the hair and head size.

  • 9. Alternating here with Level 8/38 ., then bleach + 10V, then Wella Illumina 7/35, bleach & 10Vol up the one side till finished. Then up the other side till finished.

  • 10. Process for 35 minutes, (this is a tough call remember when going the same color or darker – you want to add 10-15 minutes to the timing…..when going lighter you don’t) Here you are doing both at the same time! Its not a perfect world.

  • 11. Rinse the hair with lukewarm water – thoroughly – in the sink with a spray hose contraption ( I will be carrying these soon as well)

  • 12. Lightly shampoo with an SLS-FREE Shampoo, rinse again. Shake the excess water out.

  • 13. Apply Killerstrands INTENSIVE After-color treatment to mainly hair that has been colored – massaging in. Leave on for 5-20 minutes – rinse. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, this brings the pH balance back to the hair and helps with conditioning, moisturizing, re-balancing and shine.

  • 14. Towel dry, Spray with Soma SPRAY Detangler, your Detangler – Dry & Style

  • 15. Clean-up and sanitation . . . . Putting combs (not clips), bowls (not tint brushes) through a dishwasher cycle sanitizes them for your next go-round! For clips and Tint Brushes: clean and rinse with super hot water for 3-4 minutes to sanitize. For Killerstranders there is a spray disinfectant (I will carry soon) that is handy called MARVY spray disinfectant you can simply spray everything with. Cleanliness is next to Godliness and Hair OCDness !

  • 16. Jot down in your hair notebook what went down and how you would change it next time, don’t rely on your memory.

  • 17. YOU ARE FINISHED- How did you do? Take photos – post in the GROUP, everyone is anxious to know how you did

    Next time you would add more browns - different Levels and tones to add to depth and interest.











































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Killer Chemist



































June 16, 2008

DEMO of "How to Apply a "Patch Test" for Hair Color: Necessity or Waste?





Sloppy technique = Sloppy Hair

I would like you all to learn the proper - British- Boot Camp standards that I learned...it made me a better Hair Stylist/Colorist - as it will you.


Please attempt one of these, for practice and for knowledge....jot down your results and post in the GROUP.


PATCH TEST : This test is to determine, if you are allergic to the hair color you are about to use. Some may think it a waste....some may be very greatful for it. 

If you have allergies and/or sensitivities...you may want to run this test before applying every new haIR COLOR YOU TRY,  you only need a tiny bit and it only takes overnight.

When working with hair color, you will have to determine whether you have any allergies or sensitivities to the mixture. Please don’t blow this off, I know it takes an extra day…but there is a reason we do it. In the Salon I had every single person sign a questionnaire before I touched their hair, I bet 90% of you never filled out a questionnaire. I believe in rules, regulations and sensitivities…I have them. Within my questionnaire I gave them the opportunity to take the patch test, if they didn’t want to they had to sign a release. I also asked them if they were allergic to pollen, any foods or any drugs, if they answered yes and listed a row of them . . . we ran the test anyway. People are allergic to hair color, just like there are people allergic to the sun and grass, things we cannot get rid of. I did not get into this business to inflict any type of pain, and that CAN happen if precautions are not taken, its even a lot easier for you Crib Colorists to perform this and wait one day. We are starting a new hobby here – for it to fly we need to follow the pro’s rules.


Performing a PATCH Test


1. Select test area, behind the ear or on the inside of the elbow are good choices.

2. Using a mild soap, cleanse and dry an area about the size of a quarter

3. Mix a small amount of product according to the manufacturers directions

4. Apply to the test area with a sterile cotton swab

5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours

6. Examine the test area. If there are no signs of redness or irritation you can proceed with the color service.






A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates the color may be safely applied.


A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt – A positive result will show redness and slight rash or welt. If you have these symptoms, under no circumstances should you use the product that you tested. Do not panic though, there are many lines of hair color … with many different chemical bases for you to choose from.

So many hair colors these days have no ammonia (we carry 2 - Schwartzkopf's IGORA ROYAL & ESSENSITY line of hair color are both ammoni-free ), organic and so gentle it amazes me!


If you have sensitivities to foods, or plants, or anything at all this test should be run. I used to ask that question in my questionaire , therefore putting the decision in the clients head as to whether they wanted to take it or not.
June 8, 2008

Best Hair Care Book Around ( save for book)

down my fav.Philip Kingsley is an Englishman who has spent a lifetime analyzing and fixing heads of hair throughout the world. I would love to have his job. He's been around for a very long time and to tap that brain of his, divine.
Whether you consider your hair to be your crowning glory, a problem that just won't go away, or something that is going away all too fast, this book will provide you with help, reassurance and practical advice that can be put to immediate, beneficial use. I would say his main focus centers on hair loss as a result of various maladies, and how to combat that. In England they have a category of hair experts we don't acknowledge here in the States, Trichology. I considered becoming licensed and holding the certificate, but decided I would spend more time - EXPLAINING what in the world - Trichology - 'was'! I hope someday soon it crosses the pond.
Kingsley is credited with developing the statement, " Bad Hair Day" ! Which I consider ex
19
If you wanted to buy one book on hair care and hair advice this would be it, in my humble opinion. I own every hair book ever printed and some that weren't printed, this is hands cellent marketing for a man that repairs bad hair ! He is a man with the right goals and vision in life, so the facts behind his studies are on the money. Worth every penny.
Maybe someday I will have my own. The outline is made.
June 7, 2008

Parting:Sectioning:Tools - Prepare to Color Yo Hair - Part #2

Captioned Slide Show -- to add to the the previous post, with additional photos - Enjoy







June 7, 2008
Scroll to bottom of page for brand new Slide Show :
Applying hair color to roots, 1 quadrant at a time
June 3, 2008

Gossip Girl Hair Style

Rock and Roll Hair Does a Body Good



May 31, 2008

THRIVEN : Birth of a Real Hair Conditioner

Holy Grail of Hair : Sometimes an accident is the Best Solution

Buy Now! 

A recent review from a Killerstrander (who is worthy of the CRIB COLORIST AWARD am thinking of giving out) who recently received my own concoction hair conditioner . . sparked an idea, to tell you all the story I tell my clients that have sat in 'the chair" <> or how the old 1-2 punch of 10,000 HEADS was born.
Here is the most recent review of THRIVEN my Overnight Deep Hair conditioner and 2 part system for damaged and thinning hair, which was the beginning of the 10,000Heads protocol.
______________________________________
MrsM May 30, 5:07 am
From: MrsM <swilso...@aol.com>


Subject: Re: About Thriven
If only everyone could be as thorough, focused, and ethical in their
chosen profession as as Dakota the world would be a much better
place...

Hands down, Thriven is the best conditioner ever to grace MY spoiled
goldilocks. My first reaction when I twisted off the cap and breathed
in the fresh aroma of Thriven to the delicately clingly consistency
was that it was "Alive". And sure enough, I swiped my fingers across
the Cap of Thriven and it covered all of my hair and made it instantly
pliable. IMPRESSIVE! And it smells so great and it doesn't drip! Also,
it feels great after rinsing it out not like other conditioners that
feel great under the water in the shower and then leave hair totally
dry after rinsing.

I laughed at all of my high-end conditioners that basically feel like
clumps of lard being combed through my hair. Bottom line here is that NOTHING else has worked on my hair regardless of price. I have paid exorbitant amounts of money on my hair and it is broken in the back of my head from high end hairdressers frying it off. Which is precisely when I quit the salon except for haircuts and started doing my own hair which is on the road to recovery. Anyway, I forsee Thriven saving me tons of money in conditioners because I will no longer purchase them and the amount of Thriven I need to use is so tiny in comparision to other products. I can't think of one product I have ever used that was a "dime size".

Oh yah, one last thing, my husband is NOt allergic to it and he is
highly allergic to fragrance

I think KC's name should be changed to KGC, Killer Genius Chemist
200453795-001200453807-001
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
How sweet is that? I've had dozens of compliments and that one encapsulates them all. Thank you Mrs. M.
About 6 years ago, my daughter was struggling with damaged and thinning hair ( at the age of 19-20). At the same time I had just gone thru my radiation treatments and was in the same boat, so within my chemistry studies I started playing - the more I read and studied - the harder it DID NOT SEEM. The light bulbs came from reading about the similarities in hair and skin, I'm sure most of you realize that skin care products are loaded with all sorts of new and creative "actives" "vitamins" and ingredients for moisturizing the skin and replacing lipids lost from sun and age. The moisture loss process in skin, is the exact same moisture loss in hair . . the exact same way, but to date no one was putting any of the slick new tricky skin ingredients in the hair products. The large companies just don't think people notice the difference in hair conditioners, and I do not understand why. I believe there are thousands of people just like Mrs. M who buy and continue to buy hair conditioners up the YING-YANG in search of one that works, I used to do the same thing and I'm on the "inside". Being just one little person out here in California trying to solve the above described hair conditioning problem for myself and my daughter, why in the world can't the big companies with all their chemists do it? Which is why I went on the mission in the first place.
By having some of the more expensive ingredients in the formulation of THRIVEN it only made sense after about a month that it needed to be left on the head and hair for more than 30 or 60 minutes. The top-of-the-line face creams are put on for 8 hours at night, and hair is the same make-up as skin. That was my **BREAKTHROUGH**I wanted to start treating hair more like skin, as good as skin. We don't think twice about a $30.-$40.-$50. cream for our face, then a $20. Wash and a $10.Toner then a $40. foundation makeup with vitamins and mineral makeup for $40. and on and on and on. Most don't spend a fraction of that on their hair. RIDICULOUS I say....totally ridiculous.
BE FAIR TO YOUR HAIR AND SHARE THE $$$..If you want your hair to be healthy you must consider this theory, it has worked for most all of my clients out here. I'm a healthy hair fanatic, I turn hair down to color if it is over colored, damaged or not ready...its rare to find Stylists that will do that.
I truly care about your hair, its just IN me, to.
A couple months after we first applied THRIVEN we went to the slumber party method. Applying it overnight and letting the hairs enjoy themselves ;-). Once we began the Slumber method of application, our hair began to change. Both my daughter and I had put our hair through Hell, hers was every color on the color Wheel, putting 'black' in against my judgement and needing it cut out, my main issue was all the drugs, radiation and surgeries I had just gone thru. We both started to notice changes with damage and tangling and frizz.
My daughter has a husband who is a Stunt Man (big surprise) and he has lots of professional athletes around him as a result. They had a group of Olympic athletes staying with them and the athletes had heard the problem of my daughter not eating breakfast her whole life. She's a beautiful, very thin blond, funny, Malibu surfer, movie producer (now 26) and not eating the best meal of the day just was not a wise move on her part, especially with the hair issues and trying to resolve them. The athletes made a suggestion to her to begin eating breakfast by taking this particular supplement that is available at Target (even) , every day, which is the last half of the 1-2 punch.
At this point I knew nothing about this.
She came to get her hair done 6 weeks after this and I nearly dropped my drawers. WHAT IN THE HELL HAPPENED TO YOUR HAIR ? ? I think were my exact words. Her hair looked like it did when she was 12 . Long, thick, gorgeous, it was the single best turn-a-round in hair I had ever seen. Truly remarkable.
After discussing everything we had been thru with THRIVEN and then adding this new supplement...we decided it was the combo of the 2 and WHAMM BAMM, BINGO . . . .
THE MAGIC MIRACLE <> THRIVEN <> WAS BORN.
I don't think she bought my theory at the time, but the minute she left I ran to Target and got my stash
It took 4 weeks .
My hair did the exact same thing.
I truly felt I had discovered the Holy Grail of Hair.
We were enjoying our yummy delicious hair for quite some time, until all the people sitting in my chair were complaining of hair thinning / loss. One of the most common complaints a hair stylist hears now-a-days, that when I came up with the protocol called 10,000HEADS - Hair STRENGTH System. Taking all the experience from working on over 10,000Heads of hair over the years, the chemistry knowledge and then the THRIVEN/Supplement Accident to come up with 12 Steps for 10,000HEADS System.
Step 1: THRIVEN
Step 2: SECRET Supplement ---> both of these are mandatory
sb10063609e-001 the next 10 need to be followed as closely as possible. Do not brush off, please.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Step 3: Nutrition ( 12 points)
Step 4: Shower Filter + Shower Water
Step 5: Smoking (nothing should be smoked for healthy hair)
Step 6: Hair Color
  • must be professional or best color one can afford.
  • NO BOX HAIR COLOR KITS (other ways to go cheap)
  • the blog is here to teach you this step, no excuse
Step 7: Shampoo - SLS-Free - buy the best you can afford
{remember how much you spend on make-up}
Step 8: Stress -this includes getting rid of all electrical devices and walking in the sand or dirt or grass ALONE. . . all alone. No IPOD. No phone, no nothing. Un-stress your life, please. This is mandatory 40 minutes per day 3-4 days per week.
Step 9: Drugs / Alcohol -- None to Social if need be. I know there are lots of younger people...but I have had a group of pro surfers quit their drinking as they came to me with tears in their eyes about their hair loss. We reviewed everything and they were doing the normal for that age and group : smokin and drinkin. I had them quit and take up YOGA. It cured 2 out of 5 + improved one other guy.I felt that was significant. If you are testing your triggers, to try to figure out what your is, quit drinking for 90 days,that seems to be about the shortest you can get away with for testing "triggers" longer is better but you should be able to make an honest truthful guess.
Step 10: Hair Tools . Limit the use of all Hot electrical tools. Flat Iron, Blow Dryer, curling iron, etc.. Especially the flat Iron.
Step 11: Yoga and Exercise
Step 12: Water . Drink at least one Liter per day. Every single dayvortex.jpg.
Take care of your hair FIRST . . . boys & girls.
__________________________________________________
Purchase Thriven

Buy Now!

May 23, 2008

Reasonably Priced Powerful Products

Tea Tree Aid

Remember my recommendation of ORGANIX HAIR as the best-least-expensive-shampoo that is SLS-FREE, which has all terrific ingredients to clean that mop on your head??
Remember? Well . . . . tea tree3
Organix has introduced Tea Tree Mint, a collection of hydrating, scented milk protein-infused hair treatments for over-processed tresses. Products include shampoo, conditioner, leave-in moisturizer mist, and a shea butter treatment.
Within the shea butter line is a new Liquid Glass Serum which is a blend of organic shea butter to instantly protect your hair with the unique nutrient infusion & hydrolyzed proteins, which protects, smoothes, conditions and shines your hair.  Yogurt proteins, shea butter and vitamins smooth, seal & shine, conditions & detangles dry damaged hair while preventing frizz . All this while giving your hair the radiant glow of glass.
These products are not going to be the caliber of my top recommendations (that are at least twice the price) , wouldn't it be marvelous if they were...by the list of ingredients in each one of them they are extremely impressive, I have no hesitation in recommending them. For those of you that try them, please be sure to let everyone know how you like them, by writing in.
All available at select Target, Kroger, Safeway, Longs, CVS, check your local drug store.
http://www.organixhair.com/index.asp

Running with Color . . . Formulation

Killer Kolor Table




Stumbling across a formulation Chart from another company, I realized how helpful this might be to many of you. The more you understand about the entire procedure ...the better YOUR hair will turn out. Print it out on Cardboard and enlarge it, if you have the capability, studying this might give many of you a feeling of how the whole "color formulation" trick works.


It is not easy and will take a while for the "aha" moment, but I hope you will plod on. Study this...over and over and over. I disagree with a couple of their numbers. Having very rarely seen a Level 6 hair be properly lifted to a pleasant Level 10 leads to my conclusion that a couple numbers are wrong..BUT...I am hoping the whole chart in general gives you a broad picture of how color formulation works. If you have any questions about it, please ask in the "comments" section at the bottom of this post. If you are a Level 5, 6 or 7 and are looking to go to a Level 10 - Please ask a question about it first. These companies like to think their colors lighten MORE than they do. I have tested 10 companies High lift blonds ( Level 12's) and its nice to see they dream a lot in their Labs, I would post them but the differences are slight and do not show up in my photos. You need professional lighting and camera's for that, so I ask that you just trust me...maybe someday I can wrangle my daughter to do a technical photo shoot for me, but I don't have my hopes up...she's a busy busy bee.

May 8, 2008

Bob's Yer Uncle : Looks As If The Bob is Back to Stay

For Jaw-Grazing Glory Choose a Brilliant Bob















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