February 24, 2008

Breath of Fresh Hair : Stress & Its Effect On Healthy Hair





Do you really feel that stress can manipulate something as physical as hair

Wow. What a difference a year makes.
Here is Step 3 of my 12 Step protocol (10,000 HEADS) I finally put down on paper a year ago, I was combing through some old files & stumbled upon it.
I read this and decided - wow there was a time when I was not so edgy and frantic.
The progression of this damn disease - is very apparent now - - even to me.
But, forget that
and read it . . . at one time I could write a helluva lot better than I do now.
This is a decent article and I think tells me I need to roll out the whole Protocol - it really is an excellent protocol and there is not a doubt in my mind I could solve at least 50% of all the hair loss in women in the country.


Step 3 of 10,000HEADS. HAIR LOSS PROTOCOL

Yoga and Hair Loss

Stress and relief of it is a very individual subject.

A lot depends on where your stress comes from. Its almost crazy that as a rule I am suggesting everyone has it. Do you? I am of the belief that everyone has it in one form or another. One person’s stress may be another’s relief, as is the case with children. Some clients will claim their children are the entire cause of their stress and others use ‘hanging with their children’ as a form of relief. So it’s an entirely individual subject.What I’d like you to do if you have a problem clearly defining where your stress comes from is to get a small notepad carry it in your purse for 1 week. Every time your blood starts racing, your anger level rises or you begin yelling at someone -jot it down. Becoming aware of your stress triggers can be a huge help if you don’t know what they are. Once you know what they are, begin the process of figuring out how to combat each one. My suggestion would be to log on to AMAZON.com and find a book dealing with your particular stress trigger. Amazon is great, with one of the most user friendly sites available – so much so , sometimes it scares me by suggesting books I might like…and I DO! Typing in“road rage” or “ dealing with an overbearing mother”. . . it will give you a list of the top sellers in that category. Buy one book for every stress factor in your life and read it cover to cover. It’s a lot cheaper than therapy and they are normally written by the top professionals in the fields you are looking in.

There are 2 parts to this step & that is one.Stress produces many types of mental and physical illness in our society. Some of the symptoms of prolonged exposure to stress are headache, brain tissue damage, high blood pressure, weakening of the bones, depression, anger, fear, nervousness. The list of stress related ailments is truly staggering .The abuse of drugs or alcohol are used as common coping mechanisms with chronic stress. There are scientists out there that feel stress can even cause cancer and I have a tendency to believe them. One of the absolute necessities of this step is Part 2: Yoga. Every client that wishes to have healthy hair is required to practice YOGA at least 3 times every week, I prefer 4, 3 will do. YOGA can have a profound effect on stress and on your hair. YOGA offers many techniques which are designed to release the tension of accumulated stress. The use of hatha YOGA postures, specific yogic stretches, as well as the breathing exercises can thoroughly wash away the symptoms of stress. YOGA also provides the psychological means for releasing your stress with the use of techniques such as Pranayama (breathing) and Meditation. Even more important to the cure of stress is the philosophy of YOGA. When YOGA is truly fathomed it can dramatically alter your view on life and the world thereby restoring your feelings of self -worth and personal meaning…which gives you a feeling of deep power and control.

According to the world expert on female hair loss, Elise Olsen MD, she has written that she is undecided about whether or not stress affects hair loss. I am not. She is a doctor and works in a Lab, I admire a lot of her work and if it wasn’t for her there is a lot we would not know about hair loss, especially female hair loss… …she just does not see the amount of hair clients that I do and in my opinion there is nothing that beats HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE…nothing. I certainly am not smart enough to acquire an MD certificate so I do admire most everything else about this woman. She has written the only HAIR LOSS TEXTBOOK in existence which I have read twice and study all the time.

When I give clients the 10,000HEADS Protocol I ask that they follow all 12 steps religiously. I even have them sign a “commitment paper” as a mini-ritual that hopefully gets them hyped up and committed. Being a little more than stupid, I know that everyone does not follow all 12 steps religiously…if they did they would be truly remarkable people, it is an extremely tough task…most follow 6-7 maybe 8 steps. For the 85% success rate I quote, an individual needs to follow all 12 religiously. After some Trials I ran out of my mini-Lab over the course of 6 months, I came up with the numbers I quote.

3 weeks ago I had a long time client come in with a completely new head of hair and I was stunned. This is a 52 year old female,w/ a super high stress job, but with an otherwise very comfortable upper middle class life. She started the program because of the terrible hair ‘fall’ issues; she was losing hair in her brush, on her pillow and was freaking out about it. “Appearance” is part of her very successful job. She was doing all the steps except Step 3 & 12. Stress & the Secret Weapon supplement and I knew it. Plenty of clients end up with Step 12 as the “one” that makes the most monumental changes, it deals with what the body is missing as far as vitamins & minerals. Step 12 is the one step that changes the most peoples hair. This is the first case I could pin the dramatic change to YOGA. I didn’t know it, but she had started YOGA 3 months prior to her coming in, so it turned out Stress was her trigger point {Trigger point is what has triggered your body into shedding hair}.If she had practiced all 12 steps right from the beginning, she would have had a full year of great hair, but there was no way of knowing that .She is on Cloud Nine now…she has better hair than she has had in over 25 years and I am thrilled for her. She also has said how wonderful YOGA has been for her overall general health , her marriage and her overall happiness and was very grateful for me continually bugging her to go to a class.With YOGA you are empowered by a deeper self understanding and personal value with this new attitude you will find that you are able to cope with stress more effectively.Mental control, intellectual acuity, stress free psychological health, physical health, vitality, plus emotional healing and balance, area all the wonderful by-products of YOGA practice.

Yoga should be the primary component in your stress management program.If you do not have a yoga studio near you then head on over to http://www.yogajournal.com/ and look up what their recommendations are for a good DVD or VHS tape. My one suggestion would be the Ana Forrest YOGA – DVD. I found her style pleasant although am not sure if she has a beginning version or not. Everyone needs to get permission from their physician before beginning any type of physical activity. YOGA was my saving grace after radiation, I was super weak, and the best part was there was absolutely no pressure to be any better or to keep up with my neighbor, it is the only activity I have ever done that has not an ounce of competitiveness involved in it. You participate at your own level no matter what it is.

Added bonus: Within the practice of YOGA there are many position where you are upside down they are called INVERSIONS. Being inverted for a few minutes at a time has the blood in your body rushing to your head, That blood in your head nourishes the hair follicles, which in turn after a month or two will begin to make a difference in your hair.

In addition I have a couple of Pro-surfers that see me for their hair loss issues, both have studying Yoga for over a year, alongside the hair thickness side effects > they both claim it has improved their surfing more than any other activity ever has – these 2 are in the top 20 Professional surfers in the world.

The delights and treasures that YOGA bring to your life are vast….having yoga work on relieving your stress should be what you set your mind to. Physiological advantages of YOGA· Stable autonomic nervous system equilibrium, Pulse rate decreases· Respiratory rate decreases· Blood pressure decreases· Galvanic skin response (GSR) increases· EEG-alpha waves increase (theta, delta, and beta waves also increase during various stages of meditation)· EMG activity decreases· Cardiovascular efficiency increases· Respiratory efficiency increases (vital capacity increases, breath-holding time increases)· Gastrointestinal function normalizes· Endocrine function normalizes· Excretory functions improve· Musculoskeletal flexibility and joint range of motion increase· Posture improves· Strength and resiliency increase· Endurance increases· Energy level increases· Weight normalizes· Hair health improves· Sleep improves· Immunity increases· Pain decreases - your life changes it truly does.

I have decided to devote one month to a step with February being STEP 3 - STRESS - I know there is only a few days left, but I can also see losing people interest on this step... a lot was said in just today's post. We shall see.
There are 12 Steps, I will double up on one other month then each month you will be given another Step until we are completely finished in December.

You will solve a lot of your hair health when you get real with yourself & with life, as well.
NO B/S, I don't have time for that so I hope you please try to understand that.

I am going to apologize for the crappy writing I am producing now...after reading this I realized that at one time I had it a little more together than I do now.
I just hope you all understand....maybe I will slow it down a little.
February 23, 2008

Killerstrands POLICIES on Purchases


KILLERSTRANDS POLICIES
Ordering:There is a minimum order of $12.50.
Orders should be placed online using either PAY PAL or GOOGLE CHECKOUT . . . if interest continues to grow we will be adding a shopping cart. If you encounter any difficulties, please contact us and we'll be glad to assist. You don't have to create an account to use our site, however we welcome you to register if you'd like to do so.
For those who do not want to give credit card information online, PAY PAL & GOOGLE check out are perfect as I never even see it, that's why I like it. In addition the entire transaction takes place through their site not mine and it takes you exactly where you need to go + if you are not happy it gives you a "Big Brother" to speak to about your issues.... if need be ( i don't look forward to that day) .
All orders must be prepaid by Google Check out or Pay Pal (using any of their methods). Orders paid via Pay Pal e-checks will be held until Pay Pal advises your funds have been received. This can take 4-6 business days or longer, depending on your bank. We reserve the right to cancel orders shipped to unverified Pay Pal accounts. Orders not paid for within 10 days will be canceled from our system.
If your shipment is urgent, and you’re choosing an expedited service (UPS Next Day Air, and the like), don't hesitate to contact our office for specific shipping assistance.

International Orders: We do ship internationally utilizing USPS International Mail. Due to recent fraudulent activity, we will no longer ship to anyone or any other address but the Bill To party. Please do not ask us to declare your merchandise as Used Goods, Gifts or Samples. We are required to include commercial invoices on all shipments and we do so without exception. We add a $5.00 handling charge to international orders to cover the additional documentation and time needed to complete these orders.
We check calculated charges against actual shipping and will adjust your invoice as necessary and advise you accordingly. International shipments must clear customs in their destination countries. The buyer is responsible for customs duties and fees. Please note, we're advised UPS charges for customs clearance are substantially higher than shipments sent via international mail.

Cancellations: Because we strive for a rapid turn around of your order, you may cancel or change your order within 1 hour of when you place it, unless it has already shipped. Orders cancelled after the payment has processed will incur a 5% processing cancellation fee. Orders cancelled after shipping, but prior to delivery, will incur a 20% restocking fee, plus the cost of shipping and return.


Shipping:
Killerstrands will ship orders inside the continental U.S. using USPS Mail service. Mail generally takes 3 to 5 days, excluding the day of shipment, Sundays and holidays. Our cart cannot calculate Priority Mail Flat Rate box charges, or determine if your order can fit in one. However, we can and will use this service where possible and adjust your Priority Mail shipping charges accordingly. The current charge for an insured Flat Rate Box is $9.95 for shipments valued up to $50 and $11.00 for those with a value up to $100. The insurance fee is $1.05 for each $100 value thereafter.
We don't ship COD, nor do we ship UPS collect. We strive to keep your shipping charges as low as possible.
As for now and using PAY PAL and GOOGLE checkout, I request your Zip Code to calculate the shipping charges. As we grow things may change to make it easier & more convenient for you to chose your shipping - we shall see.

If you supply us with an incorrect address/zip code, we will charge you the extra shipping charges that occur for correcting the address or intercepting the package; you agree to this additional charge to your credit card. UPS charges $10.50 for delivery intercepts/address corrections -- please make sure your address is correct!
Shipments to APO or FPO addresses will be sent USPS Priority Mail.

All domestic shipments sent via US Mail are insured at less than or the same rates charged by the post office; however we have our own in-house policy for these and don't rely on the US Mail's insurance program. Shipments sent via International Mail are insured through the US Post Office and claims for loss or damage on these are processed by us through the US Post Office and can take up to 3 months to complete (we're prompt in handling the details, but the international postal system is not!).

Returns: Raw material products may not be returned because once shipped we can no longer guarantee the purity of the products. Defective or damaged merchandise will be replaced by Killerstrands. In the unlikely event of a container leaking, leaked contents will be replaced or a credit issued at our discretion. Durable goods that are not opened and are in saleable condition may be returned. A 20% restocking fee will be charged on all returned items. Shipping charges are not refundable.

Email us for a return authorization number. We will not be responsible for items returned without authorization and items returned without authorization will be refused. We will not be responsible for returned items lost in transit. Authorization numbers should be posted on the outside of the package, near the return address. Please request return authorization numbers within 3 days of delivery and return it to us within 7 business days. After that time the product will no longer be accepted and sale is considered final.

Damage Claims: Please inspect all packages at time of delivery and, if damaged, note on the USPS driver's delivery receipt when you sign for it. All damaged, defective or missing item claims must be reported to Killerstrands the next business day after acceptance of package. After that time, the customer accepts responsibility and will not hold Killerstrands liable.

Please help us make your experience successful by following these guidelines.

Disclaimer: We do our best to offer you only the highest quality ingredients available. We cannot guarantee that any ingredient will be consistent in appearance, color or typical odor from one batch to another, as this may be within the manufacturer's tolerance for a particular product.
In the event of loss or damage, Killerstrands will only be liable for the actual cost and or replacement of the merchandise.
We reserve the right to refuse service to anyone.

Killerstrands prices may change at any time without notice.

Privacy: We promise that none of your personal information will be shared in any way with anyone.

Fancy Meeting You Hair . . .



couple of Killerstrands monthly reminders...







just to keep you aware of what to avoid to help hair be strong & healthy...all 12 of these I have witnessed myself change in people when they have quit - their hair improves - substantially.



Just this week a long time client ( my closest,die hard clients still drive to my home - they refuse to give up on me)of mine quit smoking of about 25 years when she had booked some plastic surgery...so I decided to tell her again my theory on smoking and the health of hair, when she was NOT smoking. I have been watching her healthy hair go down the tube in the last few years See > though she had great hair for 47 years,it caught up to her, and when it did it moved very quickly. She quit 4 months ago and this appointment her hair was beautiful, healthy, shiny and full of luster AND her sides have grown in..I honestly think she has not returned to smoking because of the health change in her hair.

Which is terrific.













Just send me an email with "Product Order" in the Subject, I answer those first.
With every order comes a detailed color formulation work-up, I will help you calculate exactly what you need for your individual CRIB COLORIST formula.
The Color charts to all the lines will be posted this week-end, when asking for a color formulation work-up the one and only true way for me to help is for you to send me at least 2 photos of your hair up pretty close - I never realized how much the sense of touch and sight were imperative to color formulation - until I began doing it Online!
Once we determine what you need I get your zip code to calculate shipping charges, then send a "REQUEST FOR FUNDS" through PAY PAL, which has turned out to be the most simple - easy and Secure methods of web paying there is, everyone has loved it so far.
All my hair color comes with
  • the appropriate developer/ Wella Koleston Perfect Permanent color- $16.00\ tube

  • gloves / Wella Color Touch - Demi Permanent - $18.00\ tube

  • tail comb (for parting) / Renbow Colorissimo - Ren Color - Crazy Color-$18./$16./$11.

  • free sample of THRIVEN

  • plastic cap / Redken Levitation Oil Bleach - $20.00 \ 1 Kit=2 apps. 2 Comes with 2 volumes/suggest: 20 vol. & 40 vol.

All other items can be quoted as well. . . . . MAGMA the COLORED bleach is available this is is the most amazing but expensive product...bleaches
and tones in 1 STEP!! There are reds & cool blonde's
ONLY so far.
February 22, 2008

Top 5 Reasons February Doesn't Suck . . . .


1. The weather. No, that’s wrong
2. Summer vacation is just around…no it’s not.
3. You can start wearing…wait. No you can’t.
4. Valentine’s Day was happy. If you were already happy.
5. It’s two days shorter than the other months. But not this year.









A New York Times article suggested that John McCain had a sexual relationship with a female lobbyist. An indignant McCain responded, "I did not have sexual relations with that woman... Okay, let me rephrase that.

"The Teamsters are backing Obama. Look for this development to be reflected in Obama's new slogan: The Teamsters Are Backing Me. You Got A Problem With That? Yeah, I Didn't Think So.

A Navy missile has shot down a failing U.S. spy satellite, marking the first time in years that military officials have been able to say, "We meant to do that" and mean it.

Oil prices are up again near $100 per barrel. Senior oil executives are saying, “mwaa, aa, aa, aaaa!!” while rubbing their cold, bony hands together.

Florida schools are only now officially allowed to use the word “evolution.” Even the creationists are happy about this because it makes it way easier than saying, “we deny that dinosaur monkey can hail a cab now changey thing.”

A magnitude 6.0 earthquake hit Nevada this morning, but the damage was not wide-spread because when shock waves got to Vegas, they stayed in Vegas.

Chinese officials are using algae-munching fish to clean up one of that nation's most polluted lakes. The fish are especially effective because after eating, they're always hungry again an hour later.
St. Patrick’s Day is causing a dilemma for Catholics this year because it falls during Holy Week. Church officials are recommending their standard approach of party/feel guilty, party/feel guilty.

Pop star Pink says the end of her 3-year marriage is "not about cheating, anger or fighting".
So it's probably about fighting, cheating, and anger.Lindsay Lohan's mom assures us that her daughter’s nude photo shoot recreating a famous session by Marilyn Monroe was a "tasteful and artistic honor to the late icon, especially her boobs".
I got a chuckle . . . hopefully you do ;)
Sometimes the best thing in life, can be a chuckle
February 21, 2008

Toner or Tone Him; Either Way its a Kick Ass Solution, For A Way Too Common Hair Problem

Tone her or Tone him !!  

ha ha 

Either Way a toner is an Opaque Covering in Hair Color that is used to fight off the
UNWANTED DURP (dominant unwanted underlying pigment) that is brought out, usually, by lightening the hair.

Toners are a long time celebrity secret, so many of them get one once a week, the deal is most of them have a Salon in their home.

They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the de-colorizing process. You may hear the term "double-process" application in association with a Toner. That means the first process is the application of the lightener; the second process is the application of the toner.

I try to explain it to newbie's in the chair using the reference to a "Nylon" on a leg. The leg is one color(white) and if you want it to look tan> you don't buy brown tights...you buy a "tan" colored nylon, opaque - sheer nylons. That is what a Toner is.... Opaque-sheer-pastel-color that slips over the hair. So you slip the nylon on the leg and poof - you have a Tan leg. Same thing with blond hair, applying the toner is exactly like the nylon, only the toner covers all the strands of your hair with the opaque-sheer- pastel color.

Why do I say "anyone can do it"? What's the difference between this color and any other? The hardest part of this process? Access to getting the professional versions which are the ones that are like silk when applied ! Which you can now get at our store

A toner is a very light color usually a Level 10, sometimes a Level 9 or even an Level 8. So its a very light color to make it a toner, the goal is only to deposit color so one uses a 6 Volume - 10 Volume - 15 Volume - 17 Volume - are the 4 levels of Peroxide I have in my Lab for this purpose.
{ Remember like a "nylon"} . So you have a low volume peroxide and a HIGH Level of Color which makes for "NO" lifting action. Therefore the chemical reaction is very mild, no color is being lifted out of the hair....so you don't need gloves (use them anyway) , the color does not stain your hands, or the furniture!, and there is NO line of demarcation, so you can kind of slap it on {although "I" never do}, being careful to make at least 1/2" parts to apply the product. Its just not that critical - I have put them on myself {a LEVEL 8RG-red-gold} without even looking at the back, just doing it by feel. Apply it every where then comb it through.... wham bam thank you mam.

This is an example of what a Toner "can" do.

Its even easier to apply BOOST & BURST, it truly is because there is NO MESS from the oxidative color pigment. ++ the biggest advantage to me is you are not screwing your hair up for your next color. Just be sure to apply the last toner application 7-10 days before your next appointment or the next time you will color your hair.

What do you need to apply toners? I use the tint brush and tint bowl method, I'm a colorist, I doubt I will ever be able to break that habit. But truthfully - for a toner - those bottles I see at the beauty supply should work just fine > If you buy Color Touch, the ratio is 1:2 which makes up 6 whole ounces of product with one tube. One tube will do 1 head of super long <> super thick hair. Everyone else may get 2 applications out of the one tube. 

Remember BOOST & BURST can give a variety of colors no one at any other Ecommerce store or Salon has.


  • Toning highlights to give warmth ( gets ride of 'gray' highlights)

  • Color Touch 9/36-Light Golden Violet Blonde (sugg.)

  • Tone down Brassy highlights - CT 10/01 Lightest Ash Blonde

  • Platinum toned Gwen Stefani style- combined Colour Touch 10/89 + CT 10/7 Cafe Latte  OR 9/16 is even better

  • Tone blocks of platinum - silver - CT 8/81 Silver

  • Molly - I used 10/6 Lightest Violet Blonde - was out of 10/89 the strongest yellow-killer

  • ANGEL ROSE BOOST & BURST for that Rose Gold Look everyone loves today!


If you click on these charts these are the Color Touch Color Charts, the top 2 rows are the colors usually considered "toners".



I suggest studying these charts just spend some time looking at them, it will help the "level system" sink in. We will review them again and some additional ones, but for now try to become familiar with them.

Now to order any of the dozens of Professional toners I have  just visit our STORE .

We have lots of Goodies there . . . . for hair health and hair color. . .


February 19, 2008

The Real McCoy or Fake-y : Hair Products Up For Review

The dark side of the beauty industry : DIVERSION of hair products

diversion_bottles How many times have wondered about those high end hair products that have sprung up in very weird sources like Target....CVS.....Longs Drug..... Rite Aid and so on? I do all the time and I know what the rules, laws and codes are.
The topic of DIVERSION has long been talked about to industry professionals, and have never understood why they don't talk to the public about it, I sure the hell would want to know - I bet you would too.
Diversion: the act or an instance of diverting from a source
Diversion is the unauthorized distribution, buying and selling of professional products to unauthorized outlets outside of the professional industry. Perhaps you've seen professional hair care products sold in your neighborhood grocery store, drugstore, pharmacy or on the Internet. Most likely, these products were acquired through a "collector" who, by operating in a "gray market", acquired these products from various sources and, once they collected enough product, sold them to a mass distributor who specializes in selling "gray market" product to unauthorized retail establishments.
It baffles me that the stores buy them, if more people reported them or didn't buy the products the problem would be eliminated. Not trying to blame the wrong people, just trying to make it clear how to get rid of it.
Professional companies like Joico, Redken, ISO, Wella, Matrix, etc., and so on DO NOT sell their products to drug, discount, stores - they just don't. Part of their agreement & policy with hair stylists is that they will only sell their product to Salons so that the customer has to get the product at 'the' Salon. Its a kind of a Gentlemens agreement they have had for many years and they do stick to it. The manufacturers will only guarantee their product if its bought at a Salon. If you buy those products at those stores you are taking a giant risk in my opinion.
The products in those stores are not supposed to be there, Period. They have gotten there by one of two ways - both wrong.
a0178-000028
#1)There are companies in China, Taiwan, the Philippines, etc. that have gone to the trouble of duplicating the bottle and packaging of your favorite products. Stuffing it with some random concoction of ingredients, and selling it for the 'real' thing. Yep - they are completely bogus.
Today while I was waiting on a prescription , because I was contemplating writing this post, I meandered over to the aisle, found a bottle of Biosilk, opened it, sampled a little and was horrified. I used Biosilk for years (before I learned about ingredients & cosmetic chemistry), I know exactly how it should feel, and smell. This formula was full of some liquid laced with over 50% alcohol,it was no where even close to what it should be. So there it was....my sign for today on what to write! Not only was there none or very little of the cyclomethicone or dimethicone necessary to protect your hair (the most expensive ingredient) I checked the list of ingredients and they did not have a preservative listed. That can be a very dangerous avenue, products can become contaminated without the proper preservative as I have spoken about before. Its not the Preservative that is dangerous its the amount of it , that is crucial. But having none, is not what you want to see.
These companies fill the bottles with the wrong ingredients...in bottles that look exactly like the original - then sell them to you for as much as 15% higher than they should be. Please don't buy them in those stores, for your own good.
#2) The second method? Companies that have the real product, that are old -- way past their shelf life and should have been thrown away - decide to re-sell them to another outlet. So there are some that are in fact, real, but past their shelf life. Again, they charge too much for them and the safety is compromised with an out-of-date preservative.
There is virtually no way to tell which one of these problems is which. But the point is neither are any good, and both should be avoided.
I would guess over 60% are counterfeit, so please don't waste your money or ruin your hair with these bogus replicas!
DIVERSION : help to prevent it, only buy your high end hair products in appropriate Salons or the Beauty Supply.
February 18, 2008

In The Pink . . What one little Swish can do

Applying one little semi permanent ribbon of pink adds oodles to your style . . .







ask Avril











February 14, 2008

Breath of Fresh Hair

Katie Holmes looks absolutely stunning with this new cut.

an excellent advertisment for
"Get the absolute best hair cut you can afford"




Anyone with Level 1 thru 6 hair color this would be your single best ribbon technique - you could have in those dark locks of yours. Going too far away from your natural color looks odd and many times just doesn't sit right. Level 7- Cashmere beige Ribbons on top of a Level 3-Moka Base is simply Awesome
February 10, 2008

CRIB COLORIST - Become a Home Hair Colorist the Professional Way





Color:





Color:





Color:





February 9, 2008

2008 NY Fashion Week Brings Back 'Crazy Color' Hair

Rock The Runway's Hottest Hairdos
2 Pages from Teen Vogue this month reveals new trend in hair
I couldn't be happier about








Get your Tint Brushes ready,
rev up the color wheel
Crazy colors have returned
There are many different brands, be sure to get the best you can afford
I continue to recommend Renbow's line of "Crazy Colors" semi permanent line.
This line "washes" out the cleanest, leaving the hair in better condition than when you began
All over the New York Catwalks were hair styles with Crazy colors placed in extraordinary locations. The colors were applied using bright colored "extensions" as well as directly on the hair.
There are advantages to both



February 7, 2008

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color

This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:



  • Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}

  • growth spurt for hair

  • off the chart SHINE

  • solution for damaged strands

  • Recipe for hair conditioner

  • Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)


I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to





All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.


We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.


That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.


As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.


Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.


Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.


Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:



  • greater penetration

  • more deposit

  • incredible Shine

  • better coverage on gray

  • natural appearance

  • lasts longer

  • more intensity

  • better overall coverage


Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.


Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.


The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.


The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?


This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.



There are 2 choices of developer,
  1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
  2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.
February 4, 2008

Love Is In The Hair

have not seen a hair cut this luscious in a very long time
















February 2, 2008

5 Hair Cuts : Can You Put The Name To The Cut ?

The Fringe, The Crop, the Mane, the Shag, and the Bob

































the next 5 are on their way...

Hair Color Cowboys Go Crazy


Back to the Books
Had a couple over enthusiastic hair color cowboys plow into coloring without realizing this is a serious business, and improper technique can bring disastrous results. As much as I have been thrilled with many success stories, a couple of disasters can erase it all.

It makes me feel like maybe I have failed and did not stress the importance of reading through the entire Blog and all of its steps. Or maybe my explanations were not clear enough. No, I don't have everything posted yet, that will never happen.

There will always be new procedures to bring up-to-date and refresh but the basics are here and if you plan on trying to learn the CRIB COLORIST method you must review the entire blog.


If you are interested in this process I am teaching here , I think I should put it in perspective for you so you understand what an accidental gold mine you have stumbled upon. I bet it was accidental too wasn't it! People spend $40,000. - $50,000. to go to Vidal Sassoon Academy for a year to learn all the information I am delving out here. FREE. Truthfully only top stylists would recognize it, and why would they be looking for it? They wouldn't. That is a pretty damn good deal for all of you and the only reason I am doing it is >

because I am sick. I had a whole other plan, and this sure wasn't it.
So please,
take advantage of this odd occurrence - use it in the way it should be used....correctly. Please, read through the entire Blog, take a week to do it - if it seems overwhelming or 'too much' ... it doesn't take that long and everyone I ask to do that - 'Thanks me' they really do! Absorb and learn it so you have the advantage


BECOMING LLLLLEVEL HEADED


I want to go back and review some of the Level System. Of course in this small arena I have I have not covered it all. I tried to focus on the important parts, but I realize there are additional areas I must cover so the education is more thorough.


What I'd like to do is to get everyone on Killerstrands talking in 'Levels and Tones', as a Sassoon Colorist that's how we roll. Everyone is known by their hair color level & tone, every single person has one, even if they have never colored their hair. So as you go through your day, as you stand in the line at the post office - start guessing everyone's Level and Tone - practice makes perfect


The first task in learning hair color theory is to understand the difference between LEVEL and TONE. These 2 characteristics of Color are the most important and vital to understanding the concept.


Level, I feel fairly confidant that most everyone understands this concept, it simply refers to the lightness or darkness of hair color be it natural or artificial. If anyone out there is having a difficult time with the concept of "Level" I want you to post a comment at the end of this post OR email me so I know. Everyone here needs to be able to name every person in your life's Level/Tone of hair. Think about that. . can you?


Everyone is a LEVEL 1 thru 12 .

I guess the confusing part comes from the fact that as soon as the major hair color manufacturers decide on a basic 8 Tones, one of the companies decides to add a new tone or two, for Pizzazz! As colorists we are never more thrilled when we hear of a new tone coming down the pike. They call that a Lab-Rat, and sadly I may fit well into that category -- what a loser.

Manufacturers Level Systems vary somewhat from one another. Some products have ten levels, some 11, some 12. Regardless of the variations the lowest number will be the darkest color in any given system - highest number the lightest color.

Levels are precise degrees of lightness standardized across the manufacturer's tonal groups. All colors of the same level will have the same degree of lightness or depth, whether natural (neutral), ash, gold, matte, Pearl, Brown-Red-Violet, or any other tone.
To illustrate this, visualize a tall building, black is the basement and white is the penthouse, graduating from dark to light each story a grade lighter than the one beneath it. That is the International Level System, with numbers identifying those grade of dark to light. If you wash this image with a hue, such as gold, then you have a tonal series. Imagine a "black and White" photograph - in that you are only seeing 'Levels" of color. Before color in our TV's and in our photographs we only had this "tonal" look. Its taking one color and going from the dark to light in each.

TONE
Tone refers to the hue of a hair color, be it natural or artificial. The main tones, or hues, of hair coloring are natural,ash,gold & red...although I would add Brown, matt, pearl, brown-red and a few others.
Another point I know I didn't clarify was the labeling of hair color, so when you go to buy that first tube of color you won't be thoroughly confused by what's printed on the end of the box. Manufacturers usually indicate the tones of their colors with letters: 'A' for Ash ....'N' for Neutral and so on. Numbers are also used to designate 'tone', for instance, if ".1" means ASH , then a Level 6 ASH would be a 6.1. That's the method, my European based WELLA line uses and to make it easier on the end of the box it says : 6/01A, so you get both.
Any color can be described in level and tone. If the sky is blue and darkest blue almost navy along the horizon and then graduates up as you look into the sky. Those are also distinctions in "level". The level system pertains specifically and only to haircoloring.
If you are having problem distinguishing between level and tone, give it some more time. It will come to you. Its just foreign lingo.
FYI: the painters use of these words are totally different than the hair colorists and should not be related -- each has different vernaculars.

a

a