How Do I Correct My Mess... or ...Color Correcting & Hair

Why, When, How, Who About Color Correction

Every Hair Color procedure you do is unique and along that same line can create unique problems. Most Hair Stylists and most of you want to believe that there is a ROCK-SOLID guide to the formulation for every hair color application.......well, there just > is not, nor will there ever be.

 If I took 5 separate women - with virgin hair (never colored or chemically straightened) Level 7 (light brown), with the exact same: shoulder length - straight hair and used them as hair models. We mixed your and my favorite > high-lift: Schwartzkopf 12.19 +Framesi booster PLUS 40Volume violet developer . . applied it to all 5 of them (in the exact same manner) --  processed them in a warm room for 75 minutes.......all 5 would turn out different !!
Why?

These factors are completely different on all 5 of the girls, even though you cannot see them.

1. DURP - Dominant Underlying Remaining pigment
2. condition of hair
3. (PET) Porosity of the hair
4. (PET) Elasticity of the hair
5. (PET) Texture  of hair
6. Natural Base ( within every Level of hair color is variations)
7. Existing tint

All of the 5 factors effect and contribute to the end result. All 5 of those factors will make each one of those 5 girls end up with a different tone of blond, 1 will most likely be brassy (so more would need to be done to hair) - while 1 will be absolutely striking and the most beautiful blond you've ever seen - the other 3 will be varying shades in the middle.  As far as most of you are concerned: you really only need to figure out your own contributing factors and deal with those.

You hair stylists out there . . .its just a matter of experience and the amount of heads you color.  That is what makes a "GREAT" Hair Stylist... one that has learned how each & every one of his/her individual clients hair reacts to hair color. So when they come in to go to lighter in the Spring you can address that without trouble and then go darker in the fall - all care free. 

For you Crib Colorists, all you have to learn is how your own hair reacts to hair color...which really shouldn't take that long. Remember, if you are making a purchase you may ask me questions if you get in a pinch.



Corrective Hair coloring is a subject that can be terrifying to many hair stylists. Many hair stylists don't and won't tackle it. I have found in small towns, there may not be even 1 and that is one of the reasons I started Killerstrands, to help you. Even here in southern California we are full of a billion little towns. Within every town there are usually 40-50 Salons, with 1 or 2 emerging as the "it" Salon, within one of those 2 Salons there should be 2-3 Hair Stylists that can really "cut" hair. . and then another 1 or 2 holding the "Best Colorist" Title. Ask around........there should be one if your scared to try it your self, but you really wouldn't believe how simple is. I have it broken down in steps now I have been doing it so long.

 I, fortunately or not ?!?! was the color correction specialist for Malibu for 13 years. Being an expert at color correction can be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, you receive  top dollar for it, but it also can take days - - depending on the damage or amount of boxed hair color used. I suppose its why I am so opinionated about the pitfalls of boxed hair color - - I spent all those years - - helping people out of the messes they created due to the fact that the company's that make those Boxed Color make it seem like you will have beautiful - perfect color. Something that is so far from the truth. 

That was tough, they came in looking for empathy and that was a very hard emotion for me to muster up. Back then I rarely watched TV, I didn't really know how bad and misleading the advertising is, I guess that's why people buy it. Now I know and I am more sympathetic.

I had so many friends that were just so happy to give their hair color correction cases to me, even people I didn't know would send me their clients all the time.... I'm sure it's still that way in all the cities and towns around you. Color correction is a very difficult subject.... there are no hard and fast rules, there is no "Book of Hair Color Correction Rules" . . .you have to use your experience to conquer it . We try to uncover what has been covered up on your hair. It takes a seasoned, experienced and patient Hair Colorist to tackle this subject successfully.

The reason the color correction is so expensive?

• usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color
• conditioners are essential along the way
• Fillers are most often required
• expertise as a colorist is challenged and valued

As with regular color formulations, you must consider the 3 contributions for the end result:

1. Hair

               a. Base
               b. Goal
    2.   Color
    3.   H2 O2

If hair is damaged or even questionable, you should proceed slowly. Don't take chances. Using deep conditioners (Thriven) along the way. What the hair is missing after old color is removed? LIPIDS.....the only way to restore lipids is to apply oils from nature, such as Gleam....lipids are what give hair shine !

COLORING  OVERPOROUS  HAIR
Uneven porosity can cause an uneven result, because over-porous hair accepts artificial pigment differently. There are different ways to compensate for over-porosity:

• Lipid-Replacement: I have discovered on my own how darn important replacing those lipids from 18 yrs experience. Gleam has NO silicone's, it is very hard to find another oil like that, I have not found one in all these years, your hair DOES NOT WANT silicone's - which is what all the other products have in them. Read the labels !.
• INTENSIVE : I have created a unique product called INTENSIVE (because that's what it is) it IS Intensive ! It has ingredients that will work with your hair and even out the porosity, many use it as a daily conditioner but it truly was made for Color Correction. No one makes one and I don't have any idea -- why?

• the formula: intensify the formula, make warmer, & use a lower volume developer. 10 Volume is usually ideal. Semi-Permanent color or Demi-Permanent  & no ammonia color are great choices.  Because they deposit & don't lift). When lightening - don't use ash.
• how you apply : hair can be dampened with water a little, or with INTENSIVE - to help equalize it
• processing time adjusted: shorten the time, over-porous hair processes very fast

    Over-porous hair tends to reject warmth and accept ash. The more over porous it is, the more it selects out warmth and grabs ash, which is called "abused rejected".
I can not say this enough: " STRAND TEST  -  STRAND TEST  -  STRAND TEST ! "

COLOR  FILLERS

Color Filler :  a hair-coloring product or formula used to pre-pigment previously lightened or over-porous hair, replacing missing underlying pigment (DURP), compensating for over-porosity and preparing the hair for even acceptance of whatever hair coloring follows. Color Fillers are always warm.

Does that make sense to most of you? I get asked about Fillers all the time, they make so much sense to me . . . but when I look at people's puzzled faces when trying to teach them to other Stylists - even . . .I am fairly certain that most of you probably do not understand what they are. Am I right?
How do you know what color to fill with? They are slightly lighter than the underlying pigment of the color you want to achieve, depending on the tonal result desired, porosity and the product used.  So there is no "one color" to use when filling the hair.
Conditioner Fillers - I use these to help recondition damaged overly porous hair. . . this way the conditioner/lipids ( from the oils) can be replaced while the color is working and has the cuticle OPEN, remember there is no other time this happens.

 Apply Gleam + Thriven + the filler . . . is just the prefect way to even the porosity - fill the hair & repair the lost lipids all at the same time.

Color Fillers - in today's world . . .Semi & Demi-permanent colors are used for filling. The Wella Color Touch Line is used by many Colorists, for the longest time they were the only company that had a Demi line. Colorist today. Its the most wonderful line, of Demi permanent colors, it contains the perfect amount of deposit, smells nice, imparts more shine than almost any line of hair color I have experienced . . . its a line of hair color. Which you can get in our store.
There are just a million and one reasons to use the Color Filler. Using color Fillers has several advantages:

• deposits color to faded ends and hair shaft
• helps hair to hold hair color
• prevents streaking & dull appearance
• prevents off color results
• produces more uniform, natural looking color in a tint
• produces uniform color when doing a tint-back

Fillers are most often used for blondes returning to their original brunette base.
Picture a Level 11-12 . . .  something like this:



who is tired of her look and she wants so go back to her original color  - a level 5 B, one of my favorite colors . . .



This is a perfect example of the most common reason for filling hair. See the Level 10 . . . in order to get it to the Level 5 . . . what is missing?
Warmth.  It is a completely blank canvas, all the color is gone, it has been removed . . . because in this case if you had warmth it would be deemed 'brassy'.

 So, in order to get it to this Level 5 - Light Brown - the goal. . .one must fill-IN (where the "filler" name came from) the missing warmth. In hair color, warmth means: reds, golds, oranges, yellows.  Therefore (depending on all the factors we talked about above) Kenra actually has 3 colors that are made to "fill hair" ...finally someone GETS IT ! ! !

First:  Apply Gleam/Thriven to all the hair strands - then apply the filler formula for 20 minutes,. , , which is half the timing of normal hair coloring. Rinse: and be ready for a shocker - - - the hair will be a lovely shade of shocking orange.




But you cannot say it does, not have a warmth!  After the filler Apply INTENSIVE for 10 minutes and then the desired color  .
There you have it - - -  fillers du jour . . .

Here are a couple articles with their opinions about reasons you may need Color Correction:

L
     
d                                                                                                                                                    

Change Your Hair Color............... Or Not ?!

It really shouldn't be scary to change hair color, they used to say something at Sassoon that will probably give most of you a complete and utter heart attack, they would say, why not change your color or cut your hair, it really is "only hair".

ONLY HAIR. . . .  Are they fricken' kidding, my hair is EVERYTHING to me. To that date is how long I had thought that way.....so chalk it up to my maturing, becoming ill, and after over 14,000 Heads of Hair I finally have come around to that way of thinking...so that is not how I expect you to think. But just think about that sentence every once in a while. 

It is truly .... "only hair".

At first I couldn't believe they could say such a thing but the more they said it the more it made sense to me.....it really is 'just hair'. What could really go wrong if you change your color ? Your family will still love you, your friends will still love you.........and strangers ..... strangers, don't even know you have changed it, so you need not care about those unknown -- AT ALL ! I've had a few  in the group  lately who are very hesitant about changing their hair color....I know I felt that way at some point, but it was so long ago I don't remember the feeling. I slowly learned that with the technology we have in today's marketplace and as long as you have some cash.... & know a good colorist - - YOU CAN BE ANY COLOR ON THE PLANET...! any color on earth is pretty much achievable....and then you CAN go back again if you don't like it. Remember tho ...... this is all on the theory that you have a fat wallet !

This Blog is just about 7 years old! 

Yep, I started way back with my mission to teach women and men how to care for their hair HONESTLY, CORRECTLY and with SCIENCE as the basis behind all of the suggestions and education I teach you.

 Please I promise you my own products work better than any hair conditioners / repairers than any you have ever tried. That is a bold statement, but after 7 years and hundreds of comments and emails I receive each week (I read every single one - btw!) -- I have developed that confidence.  I had a few college girls really love THRIVEN, so I decided it was time to re-tell some of my basic stories.

My number 1 suggestion for people writing me and wanting help is:

#1 Start reading at the beginning of this Blog -- read all Posts - { it really doesn't take that long }.

 I have heard from well over 1000 people...........
that, it was the single best piece of advice they had ever received regarding the HEALTH and HAIR COLOR of their hair.....in their life. My heart warms every single time I hear that.
We have customers from 18 - 88 our products appeal to all ages and all types of hair! 

 Remember you have 3 solid categories of hair color to choose from and those all have different results, everyone knows about permanent color here is some "current" information about what color does and is about TODAY :

Semi-Permanent : such as the Professional lines of Hair Color (we finally found 2 professional lines in this category that are just a knock-out!) - this type of color is so different because you do NOT mix it with any developer. That way it does NOT make a line of demarcation, they TRULY wash all they way out. If there is a box or package that says it is Semi-Permanent and there are 2 bottles and 1 of them has either white or clear liquid. It is a downright LIE. There are thousands of them that advertise it is SEMI permanent but then add developer. Once you add developer, the hair shaft WILL be changed, so I don't have to prove it. SCIENCE DOES! ! ! ! ( watch for those in the BOXED HAIR COLOR aisle.....so watch out closely for it.

Semi-Permanent Hair Color

• Schwartzkopf MOUSSE - in 21 Colors - apply very quickly, covers gray roots for 2 weeks!

Demi-Permanent Hair Color: the next step up ...this Color has little to LOW ammonia, it is used with 3 to 15 Volume Developer....and any Volume in-between, it does make a line of Demarcation. A very light one, but 'one' . . . . just the same. Companies lead you to believe the opposite. This category is GREAT for 1st time Gray coverage ( up to 20%)...great for Toners and also for a little body. We carry the following Demi-Perm lines:

• Wella Illumina Hair Color (our most popular color line) - Use with 6, 10 and 13 Volume Developer from the Color Touch and Wella Koleston Perfect Lines . Newest most remarkable hair color by Wella which works a different way than any other hair color and produces a lot of shine by all reports coming in.
• Wella Color Touch -  Wella's long time Demi-Permanent line of color, use 6 & 13 Volume. A large 122 color catalog.
  
• Schwarzkopf VIVIANCE  - Demi-Permanent Hair Color

I believe all of these colors should be processed a full hour  for proper color absorption, maximum gray coverage and for the most extreme and long-lasting SHINE you've seen !

Always finish with INTENSIVE, you will see what a truly effective product it is, after your 1st application!

St. Patricks Day is on its way . . . . . Green hair in some cases 'can' be beautiful ! ! !

KC
Killer Chemist

Shampoo; Its Job and the Only Thing It Truly Can and SHOULD Do

I would imagine most consumers think there are constant changes going on in shampoos, from all the wacky commercials on the tube.........it seems like one week they have discovered how to add shine, the next how to give you Volume. Know from me........ that shampoo does NOT HAVE THE CAPACITY TO DO ANY OF THOSE TRICKS, really ! Shampoo..........has the ability to clean your hair.........that is its job and as long as it cleans your hair well, without leaving any lingering bad ingredients, that is all you should expect from it.  There are about a hundred million other products for all the various tasks you would like to do to your hair, just require your shampoo to clean your hair AND THAT'S IT ! ! ! Doing that correctly is all a shampoo can do, no matter what they tell you on advertisements. This is ALL these products have the capacity to do:

SHAMPOO...........................CLEAN
CONDITIONER.....................CONDITION & UNTANGLE 
SPRAY CONDITIONER.........UNTANGLE

Frankly, within the chemistry make-up and formulation end of shampoo it has not changed that much in the last 30 years...in my eyes. About a month ago I made a few calls to some of the major shampoo manufacturers in the US to see what they had to say about the biggest changes in within their up coming shampoo releases.

This was the best news I have heard in a very very long time. They all said the same thing > "Sulfate-Free" is their number 1 Red Flag  - STILL ! I still don't see as much as I wish there was. I wish all the inexpensive shampoos were Sulfate-free. This has been a knife in my side now for at least 15 years.

So rejoice . . they have finally heard the complaints and bitching I and many of my stylist com-padres have unleashed on the world! I'm not going to complain about the time it took . . . at least "it took". That is a very good thing.

I cannot completely prove that SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a 100% cause of all the hair loss and hair thinning in women of late....because I still feel from all my research that it is because of the synergistic effect of the combination of ...all of the 13 steps of 10,000 HEADS.

I bought some SLS or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate way back when I was an innocent little cosmetic chemist trying to make my own shampoo that was better than the what was offered at the stores....it is this puffy white powder. But when you open the top of a simple small jar of the actual product "SLS" and the inside of your nose, eyes and lungs BURN simply from 1 tiny inhale.....SOMETHING IS DRASTICALLY WRONG ... who in their right mind would put that on hair and hair follicles...??? .......wow that subject infuriates me...and always will. Stay away from SLS, or SULFATES..... become accustom to reading labels please....just like you do for your food. You have to learn to protect yourself...there are so many millions of products on the market now that it is not even realistic to think that our government could keep control over that entire industry. We can't even keep Terrorists out of the country that are trying to kill us with guns and Airplanes !


KC
Killer Chemist

Hair today . . . gone tomorrow .......here i am

The Brain Bone Connected to the Hair Bone

FPHL  =   Female Pattern Hair Loss

 

Education of How Hair Loss Hits Women 

The most common cause of hair loss in women is “androgenetic alopecia” which basically means FPHL or Female Pattern Hair Loss, the women’s version of:

• aging
• hormones
• genetics.............all affecting hair loss. 

It has been fairly well established that hair loss issues between the sexes is completely different. Not only does male pattern baldness ‘reveal’ differently, scientists believe the solutions are also down a different path than women’s. The men already have a quick-fix pill that works well (Propecia), while the women still only have Minoxidil (Rogaine) as the only FDA approved drug to combat loss. We don’t even include minoxidil in the 10,000HEADS Protocol, although clients are more than welcome to use it. Our work & research at killer strands is focused mainly on the issue of Women’s hair loss as is this blog, we do see & help men at the clinic, but our focus has been forced to narrow lately.

Killer strands would like to introduce to you a new way of understanding the female hair loss plaguing America today. By recent estimates 40 million women are suffering from one form or another of hair loss and the numbers continue to rise. In order for women to understand why the 10 steps of this program work, we have found it helps to educate and explain the “HAIR GROWTH CYCLE in a little different method, one that is clear – simple – and concise . When we take the time to explain the whole process at the clinic you can just see the light bulb’s going on over heads .

Every person is born with every single hair follicle they will have for lifetime, on the body, at birth. As a tiny baby you are born with 5 million hair follicles throughout your entire body , with 1 million on the head and 100,000 on the scalp. There are 2 types of hairs within all those, vellus and terminal…vellus are the short fuzzy, soft ones that do not grow, while the “terminal” hairs are just that, terminal. 

Think about that, as that is what will help you understand the reason behind alopecia, the hairs on your scalp have a life-span…they sprout ,grow, shed – rest, then begin the process all over again.

 Now there are technical names for all of these stages which you can see on the chart, but what is important here, is that each and every single hair on your head sprouts, grows & sheds, & rests…shedding is a mandatory part of new hair growth. 

A hair remains in its GROWTH phase for approx. 4 years (fluctuates by person) – at the end of the growth phase it is shed {hair fall}; three months later another grows in its place. When the hair is shed there is the period of awaiting cell regeneration … which begins another new hair… and ‘that’ is where the diminishing numbers come from and that is where noticeable hair loss on your head begins.

As we age the hair that once grew for 4 years – the next time it may only grow for 3 1/2 years, the next time for 3 years and so on. Therefore, if you had 50,000 hairs growing for 4 years when you were 20 years old and then each 4-5 years later . . . . the amount went down another 2-3,000...you can see fairly well how thinning happens and that when it does happen it has been happening for months that you were not even aware of. 

The result: an even...all-over or “DIFFUSE” pattern of hair loss which explains WPHL or women’s pattern hair loss . We believe that the hair SHIFT term that we coined is the result of 10 years accumulation of changes within the body (for one reason or another) resulting in a distinct and noticeable change in a woman's hair.

Every single hair on your head sheds, that is the completely normal process within the normal growth cycle of each and every hair. In order for a new hair to grow in the old one has to shed, so the “cycle” can continue along its merry way! Many people panic about hair shedding, 95% of the time it is within the normal range, it has just been combined with a person’s aging & hormones, so it seems more severe, which is understandable.

Compare the hair to the eyes to make it easier to understand.
The eyesight of a 20 year old is at its peak, with many having 20/20 vision, move forward 20 years – and reading a menu all of a sudden becomes difficult & blurry, people panic 95% of the time...and its just age. 

Same thing with your hair, it was at its peak when you are/were about 18-20, from there it begins its retreat until one day the combination of your aging and some abnormal shedding just seems to hit you around about the same week.

Gleam if Applied Daily to scalp : Prevents premature hair loss; - Supports healthy hair growth; - Increases volume

 When you are about 30, you will notice your first or second hair SHIFT. Many women are having babies around this age, and having a baby can do both make your hair thicker or make it thinner…there is just not one way it will go. If you were to implement the entire 10,000heads program, religiously you have a very good chance the hair SHIFT you have will be a ‘good” one. That is one fact we are absolutely sure of. There are many of you who relish taking care of your hair to the optimum, you read my rules - you follow almost every single step and you are thrilled with the results.
Some of you just will not.

Each individual hair is formed inside a hair bulb deep in the hair follicle. The follicle is a tiny but powerful factory, which throughout many people’s lifetime hardly ever stops working. From birth to sometimes as much as a century in some people, the follicle continues to produce hairs! Each hair grows for years, it is shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry, colored, bleached, permed…none of these treatments affects the growth of the hair in the hair bulb, even though some may radically damage the hair shaft.  Those hairs continue to grow anew! I find that simply amazing....still to this day!

Finally the hair falls out, rests for a little while then produces yet another new hair! That is the HAIR GROWTH CYCLE, the cell regeneration that goes on in the hair follicle is the most prolific on the body, coming in second is the spine.

PHASES of the hair GROWTH cycle
Anagen 1000 days
Catagen 10 days
Telogen 100 days

Hair grows ½ inch per month (on average) and faster in the Spring. Mens anagen phase is shorter than womens so genetically they are already predisposed to shorter hair then women.
I have gotten away from talking about the hairs thickness and how to keep a healthy head of hair so I felt a good dose of education surrounding ...''How to keep a Healthy Head of Hair" would be wonderful.

 KC

Dear Andrea, I Do Not Want You To Lose Anymore Hair . . . .

 A Note to a Dear Friend I Have Made Through This Website....who needs to Use A Violet -Toned Shampoo to Cancel The Brass In Her Blonde. . . .

Dear Andrea,

....you must change shampoos ...that shampoo has Sulfates in it and I believe 100% that sulfates cause hair loss in females.

Sulfates are what the entire 10,000 HEADS Protocol is all about.

(This is EXACTLY How I feel in 2014 and Need to Stress the IMPORTANCE of the 10,000 HEADS Protocol)

GET RID OF SULFATES in your life and your children's lives!

Schwartzkopf does not make a sulfate-free lavender shampoo....unless you have a brand new one that hasn't hit  Calif. yet, the east coast does get new products before us in certain brands.........look on the back and it will be either the 

1st,2nd,3rd or 4th ingredient if it says:  

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate........

or anything even close to that such as Sodium Sulfate, SLS , then it is Bad and you need to rush right out and get a new shampoo or if u want we can start using up your credit.

I don't care, I just want you OFF that shampoo if it has sulfates in it.

I ran multiple tests on women of all ages because I had girls at the age of 18 have hair loss who had never colored their hair and I was trying to find a common link betweeen them and the 40 yr olds and the 60 year olds..... the common denominator was Shampoo with sulfates in them. AND.....when they switched to a sulfate-free shampoo, the hair loss stopped. It was that way across the board. It was such an easy solution to hair loss in women.

The big corporations were dragging their feet and finally just last month Redken ( who is owned by L'Oreal - a french company) finally was the last to give in and make a sulfate-free professional shampoo in a shocking pink container.

I will tell you I have only found 4 and

in the order of how people buy them:

• Tressa violet Wash- sulfate -free
• Pravana Violet sulfate-free
• OSMO Sulfate-free violet pearl

anyway Andrea, I decided this was important enough to bring it up to the troops that read this Blog again, so they could benefit from it as well.

Please be sure your shampoos do not have any form of sulfates in them.

KC

Hair Color Formulating - Calculate that Color !

                        Formulating Guidelines
Every single Hair Color line is different, so ALWAYS ...and I mean Always read the paragraph of directions with every different line of color you change to. Why? Because every line has a different RATIO of Color to Developer. They go from 1:1...which means 1 part color to 1 part developer....for example: 1 ounce of hair color squeezed into the bowl  plus 1ounce developer. Up to 1: 2. The very best way of measuring hair color, is with a small kitchen /postal scale , digital is best. Most of our Group members have acquired a nice - decent one from Target  ( there is no way I can beat the price - its under $20) that weighs in 'grams' now if you join the group you get all sorts of help help with calculating your first formula and others if you want to stay.

These are just some General guidelines of Hair Color Formulating, lets start with which Developer you use and why?
         remember go over the manufacturers  directions for each different brand

• The Volume strength of the Developer is determined by how much lightening is required in your formula, to determine how many levels of lift you are lifting compare YOUR natural....Higher Volumes are are used for higher lift.
• If you are not lifting, but are matching the natural base or going darker than 20Volume is sufficient ...some companies will recommend using 15 or 10Volume,even for just depositing.

To determine how many levels you are lifting . . . compare your virgin hair to the new hair you would like to have, or your "desired" hair color. The difference between the 2 is the number of Levels you are lifting.

Don't let this be too confusing...it is pretty simple

DESIRED Level                                                     DL
minus                                                                    minus
NATURAL Level                                                     NL
_____________________                                   equals   Levels of Lift
 Is the number of Levels You are Lifting


10 Volume - up to 1 Levels of Lift
20Volume -  up to 2 Levels of Lift
30 Volume - up to  3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume - up to 4 Levels of Lift

With most products 20 Volume would be used to go from a Natural Base of 5 to a target Level of 7.
To Lift a Natural Level 5 to to a 9.............what Volume would be used ?? Why 40...of course!

 thank you ,
KC

Wella's Illumina 11 NEW SHADE CHARTS, YOU MUST CHECK THEM OUT !

People have asked me about these, they were out in Europe first, but now we have them all:

Wella's Illumina - new additional colors added

 Announces:

11

New Shades
 

The new colors above are the darker neutrals 4/ & 5/

           Head over to our Store's website for 

 new shade's - Chart and more information

AN OMBRE - REVERSE & the Trip of How Hair Trends Begin

I saw an OMBRE Reverse today..........I really need to get out more....

Hair Color Trends fade and change and most stay they just are brought back by kids in the street who decide they like a certain thing or fad one of their friends is wearing. The trends are not started by beautiful models or the wealthy people living in St.Tropez.....NOPE...........as I have watched trends come and go I have decided after watching for 20 years right where they start.......

Just a 12-13-14 or 15 year old somewhere we have never heard of usually. Then a hair Stylist sees it on this kid and thinks, "hey that's kind of cool, I'm gonna try that on my next model ". . . and copies it on one of the many hair models that are so willing to sit in a good Colorists chair.....Then someone else sees his work, copies it and it begins very slowly and it happens so slowly and unusually that no one ever (really) gets the proper credit for starting the trend. Because it was some very cool kid skateboarding with his friends and the very cool girls that sit around the skate park and watch them. THAT is how I see it. Sassoon has usually 3-4 trending Shows a Year or they did when I was there and it was run by Annie and Tim Hartley....but I always noticed that those colors while absolutely beautiful did not truly start from them.

Remember when you were a "tween-er" and you set the trends or your friends did? 
 It's still that way!
...The cool people did not grow older with you, silly. The cool people switched to the grade behind you and "they made & began" the trends. I watched it so much in my 2 daughters and even now the one who was so super hip, she is not the one setting the trends anymore she has been left in the dust by the newer generation and THAT is where almost all hair color trends begin. As was so wildly displayed in the past 2-3 year trend of "Krazy Kolors" on so many people and remember it wasn't just a little color - people bleached out their entire head and then applied 5-6-7 colors! The only thing I kept thinking to myself was ....OMG what are all these people going to do when they tire of this....and they WILL tire of it. There is nothing that takes Pravana VIVID Hair Colors out. N-O-T-H-I-N-G. I mean we have had Crazy Colors(various brands) for about 30 years. That is how long they have been around. Does that shock you because Sassoon in England was one of the first to push those colors into high style and make them OK to wear in every day wear. Prior to that it was just the punk rockers and all the ravers who would wear them and they were not acceptable in the fashion world back then. But, you notice how - much more high fashion those colors have become. Ask anyone, who started Crazy Colors? No one knows truly, in my opinion...But they will argue about it forever, so if you are in a Salon ask your neighbor.....!!!!

Like I said , , ,  its a whole different world in hair and hair color. . . . . about every 2-3 years. I swear I say they just change things around I mean what else can they possibly do. But remember, those kids sittin' at that skate park with their tablets and phones & looking at high fashion ideas from all over the world....and the "fashion - cycle" begins again. . . . . . . .

 

 

 

 

I really like the idea of a true redhead with blonde tips but I could not find a photo of one, if anyone ever finds one will you please send it to me, so I can Post it ???? Please

 

Tri-Level  REVERSE OMBRE

Facts About Hair Industry From 2013

At the end of the year ....every year ... the Chemistry magazine I subscribe to brings me all the interesting facts about hair  - hair products - from this past year and this up coming year. They have access to facts that cost a whole lot of money for me to acquire access to...therefore I thought I would bring some of them to you as the year winds down and we begin another one.

Now the funny part of who drives the hair industry might surprise you as it did me, the group of people who drive and deliver to the chemists what needs to be in their formulas this year is..........surprisingly

the MARKETERS !

isn't that odd. I don't know about you but that is not what I expect. That's completely backwards to me. Wouldn't you think the Chemists would develop formulations (which is how I work btw), test them.... then take them to the top brass and say lets make this into a product for the hair it does something we have never seen before. But, no according to this magazine they watch what the Consumer (YOU) is looking for and then they have their chemists 'focus' on that category. Ridiculous to me. 




An example of that just yesterday to me was Redken. That big giant - humungous company has finally made their very first Sulfate-free Shampoo. How long have I been preaching the fact that you should NEVER use a shampoo with sulfates in it? Almost 15 years...!!! I would call about once a year and ask "when are you bringing on a Sulfate-Free Shampoo?" Their answer...... " we don't really believe in that theory" ! 


I would tell them I have run tests on it besides watching thousands of clients switch and watching their hair change in front of my eyes...... and hang-up. The new Redken line is now in the store if you would like to give it a whirl. Redken makes great hair care AND styling products across the board.

Back to the stat's...
In the shampoo category for the 52 week period ending Oct. 6, 2013 sales rose 1.5% to $2.6 billion (in supermarkets,drugstores,mass-market retailers certain retail chains) ! Since I've been watching these statistics these numbers have never gone down. If you invest money, look for a company that is beauty based. THEY NEVER GO DOWN ! ! ! !
Its funny they say dandruff shampoo's sales fell 2.2% to $505 Million  but they are only counting the crappy dandruff shampoos you find in supermarkets - all the scalp treatments we have work pretty well. ......... regular shampoo sales rose 2.3% to 2.05 BILLION ! ! (can you believe that) . Hair Conditioners rose 6.6% to 1.9 Billion.

Now in the "Prestige" beauty departments sales grew a whopping 10% to 105 million (that is a LOT in 1 year - compare to the supermarket brands even). Prestige hair care (which is what they call the products I carry in the store)....it is a concentrated segment that is outpacing the performance of the mass channel outpacing the performance of the mass market. There is a lot more access to the elite brands through site's and blog's like this one. 

{Do you know that one person has stolen this entire Blog - put another name on it and attached his store in the Philippines to it? I'm fighting it right now with Google who owns Blogger, but I just cannot believe people sometimes.}

 With increased education from the Internet, it has added to the increase interest in the more elaborate brands that have the better formulations and ingredients. Which I feel has opened up the minds of more of you to the fact that a couple more dollars for a bottle of shampoo -- can truly change the look of your hair.

I like to think that my Crib Colorists and do-it-your-selfers, are learning some of the basics of the professional world....slowly but surely and 1 by 1 this is what I hoped would happen and it is, I just wish it would happen at a bigger scale and faster. If each one of you told ONE person about this Blog and that person told one person we would come closer to my goal....I can't afford the big bucks advertising.....that it takes. 

You do know that when you search on Google those people at the top of the list ...they have paid for that spot. It all has to do with how much money you have. I just want the world to be as educated about the proper way to care for their hair as the wealthy and the celebrity, I don't think something as simple as proper hair care should be limited to those with money. I don't think its fair and its getting there. So please, you tell someone about the Blog and if they put in the code "Become a Crib Colorist" when they check-out and your first name, you will receive a free shipping code for your next purchase!