March 7, 2014

How Do I Correct My Mess... or ...Color Correcting & Hair

Why, When, How, Who About Color Correction

Every Hair Color procedure you do is unique and along that same line can create unique problems. Most Hair Stylists and most of you want to believe that there is a ROCK-SOLID guide to the formulation for every hair color application.......well, there just > is not, nor will there ever be.
 If I took 5 separate women - with virgin hair (never colored or chemically straightened) Level 7 (light brown), with the exact same: shoulder length - straight hair and used them as hair models. We mixed your and my favorite > high-lift: Schwartzkopf 12.19 +Framesi booster PLUS 40Volume violet developer . . applied it to all 5 of them (in the exact same manner) --  processed them in a warm room for 75 minutes.......all 5 would turn out different !!
Why?

These factors are completely different on all 5 of the girls, even though you cannot see them.
  1. DURP - Dominant Underlying Remaining pigment
  2. condition of hair
  3. (PET) Porosity of the hair
  4. (PET) Elasticity of the hair
  5. (PET) Texture  of hair
  6. Natural Base ( within every Level of hair color is variations)
  7. Existing tint
All of the 5 factors effect and contribute to the end result. All 5 of those factors will make each one of those 5 girls end up with a different tone of blond, 1 will most likely be brassy (so more would need to be done to hair) - while 1 will be absolutely striking and the most beautiful blond you've ever seen - the other 3 will be varying shades in the middle.  As far as most of you are concerned: you really only need to figure out your own contributing factors and deal with those.

You hair stylists out there . . .its just a matter of experience and the amount of heads you color.  That is what makes a "GREAT" Hair Stylist... one that has learned how each & every one of his/her individual clients hair reacts to hair color. So when they come in to go to lighter in the Spring you can address that without trouble and then go darker in the fall - all care free. 

colorist9For you Crib Colorists, all you have to learn is how your own hair reacts to hair color...which really shouldn't take that long. Remember, if you are making a purchase you may ask me questions if you get in a pinch.



Corrective Hair coloring is a subject that can be terrifying to many hair stylists. Many hair stylists don't and won't tackle it. I have found in small towns, there may not be even 1 and that is one of the reasons I started Killerstrands, to help you. Even here in southern California we are full of a billion little towns. Within every town there are usually 40-50 Salons, with 1 or 2 emerging as the "it" Salon, within one of those 2 Salons there should be 2-3 Hair Stylists that can really "cut" hair. . and then another 1 or 2 holding the "Best Colorist" Title. Ask around........there should be one if your scared to try it your self, but you really wouldn't believe how simple is. I have it broken down in steps now I have been doing it so long.

 I, fortunately or not ?!?! was the color correction specialist for Malibu for 13 years. Being an expert at color correction can be both a blessing and a curse. Yes, you receive  top dollar for it, but it also can take days - - depending on the damage or amount of boxed hair color used. I suppose its why I am so opinionated about the pitfalls of boxed hair color - - I spent all those years - - helping people out of the messes they created due to the fact that the company's that make those Boxed Color make it seem like you will have beautiful - perfect color. Something that is so far from the truth. 

That was tough, they came in looking for empathy and that was a very hard emotion for me to muster up. Back then I rarely watched TV, I didn't really know how bad and misleading the advertising is, I guess that's why people buy it. Now I know and I am more sympathetic.


I had so many friends that were just so happy to give their hair color correction cases to me, even people I didn't know would send me their clients all the time.... I'm sure it's still that way in all the cities and towns around you. Color correction is a very difficult subject.... there are no hard and fast rules, there is no "Book of Hair Color Correction Rules" . . .you have to use your experience to conquer it . We try to uncover what has been covered up on your hair. It takes a seasoned, experienced and patient Hair Colorist to tackle this subject successfully.

The reason the color correction is so expensive?
  • usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color
  • conditioners are essential along the way
  • Fillers are most often required
  • expertise as a colorist is challenged and valued
As with regular color formulations, you must consider the 3 contributions for the end result:
  1. Hair
               a. Base
               b. Goal
    2.   Color
    3.   H2 O2

If hair is damaged or even questionable, you should proceed slowly. Don't take chances. Using deep conditioners (Thriven) along the way. What the hair is missing after old color is removed? LIPIDS.....the only way to restore lipids is to apply oils from nature, such as Gleam....lipids are what give hair shine !

COLORING  OVERPOROUS  HAIR
Uneven porosity can cause an uneven result, because over-porous hair accepts artificial pigment differently. There are different ways to compensate for over-porosity:
  • Lipid-Replacement: I have discovered on my own how darn important replacing those lipids from 18 yrs experience. Gleam has NO silicone's, it is very hard to find another oil like that, I have not found one in all these years, your hair DOES NOT WANT silicone's - which is what all the other products have in them. Read the labels !.
  • INTENSIVE : I have created a unique product called INTENSIVE (because that's what it is) it IS Intensive ! It has ingredients that will work with your hair and even out the porosity, many use it as a daily conditioner but it truly was made for Color Correction. No one makes one and I don't have any idea -- why?
  • the formula: intensify the formula, make warmer, & use a lower volume developer. 10 Volume is usually ideal. Semi-Permanent color or Demi-Permanent  & no ammonia color are great choices.  Because they deposit & don't lift). When lightening - don't use ash.
  • how you apply : hair can be dampened with water a little, or with INTENSIVE - to help equalize it
  • processing time adjusted: shorten the time, over-porous hair processes very fast
    Over-porous hair tends to reject warmth and accept ash. The more over porous it is, the more it selects out warmth and grabs ash, which is called "abused rejected".
I can not say this enough: " STRAND TEST  -  STRAND TEST  -  STRAND TEST ! "

COLOR  FILLERS

Color Filler :  a hair-coloring product or formula used to pre-pigment previously lightened or over-porous hair, replacing missing underlying pigment (DURP), compensating for over-porosity and preparing the hair for even acceptance of whatever hair coloring follows. Color Fillers are always warm.

Does that make sense to most of you? I get asked about Fillers all the time, they make so much sense to me . . . but when I look at people's puzzled faces when trying to teach them to other Stylists - even . . .I am fairly certain that most of you probably do not understand what they are. Am I right?
How do you know what color to fill with? They are slightly lighter than the underlying pigment of the color you want to achieve, depending on the tonal result desired, porosity and the product used.  So there is no "one color" to use when filling the hair.
Conditioner Fillers - I use these to help recondition damaged overly porous hair. . . this way the conditioner/lipids ( from the oils) can be replaced while the color is working and has the cuticle OPEN, remember there is no other time this happens.

 Apply Gleam + Thriven + the filler . . . is just the prefect way to even the porosity - fill the hair & repair the lost lipids all at the same time.

Color Fillers - in today's world . . .Semi & Demi-permanent colors are used for filling. The Wella Color Touch Line is used by many Colorists, for the longest time they were the only company that had a Demi line. Colorist today. Its the most wonderful line, of Demi permanent colors, it contains the perfect amount of deposit, smells nice, imparts more shine than almost any line of hair color I have experienced . . . its a line of hair color. Which you can get in our store.
There are just a million and one reasons to use the Color Filler. Using color Fillers has several advantages:
  • deposits color to faded ends and hair shaft
  • helps hair to hold hair color
  • prevents streaking & dull appearance
  • prevents off color results
  • produces more uniform, natural looking color in a tint
  • produces uniform color when doing a tint-back
Fillers are most often used for blondes returning to their original brunette base.
Picture a Level 11-12 . . .  something like this:

level 11 - KKKKK

who is tired of her look and she wants so go back to her original color  - a level 5 B, one of my favorite colors . . .

level 5 -eee

This is a perfect example of the most common reason for filling hair. See the Level 10 . . . in order to get it to the Level 5 . . . what is missing?
Warmth.  It is a completely blank canvas, all the color is gone, it has been removed . . . because in this case if you had warmth it would be deemed 'brassy'.

 So, in order to get it to this Level 5 - Light Brown - the goal. . .one must fill-IN (where the "filler" name came from) the missing warmth. In hair color, warmth means: reds, golds, oranges, yellows.  Therefore (depending on all the factors we talked about above) Kenra actually has 3 colors that are made to "fill hair" ...finally someone GETS IT ! ! !

First:  Apply Gleam/Thriven to all the hair strands - then apply the filler formula for 20 minutes,. , , which is half the timing of normal hair coloring. Rinse: and be ready for a shocker - - - the hair will be a lovely shade of shocking orange.




But you cannot say it does, not have a warmth!  After the filler Apply INTENSIVE for 10 minutes and then the desired color  .
There you have it - - -  fillers du jour . . .

Here are a couple articles with their opinions about reasons you may need Color Correction:

COLOR CORRECTION9999L
    COLOR CORRECTION 777777 
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9 comments:

  1. What a great post!! I've always wondered about fillers....I feel like I had an "ah ha!" moment reading this! Thanks KC! You are awesome.

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  2. this post couldent have come at a better time for me...well anyway im planning ahead for my next hair color change. i planning to have a small portion of my fringe platinum and the rest of my hair a level4, which it is presently but i have natural dark black coarse hair. After this i want to go to a nice dark brown towards the end of the summer. I have a question though it dosent pertain to this post, since the portion i want to bleach out has color in it already, would i be able to proceed with the bleaching application right after using a color remover or should i wait a few days then do the bleach? i mean i know if my hair dident feel right after the color removal i wouldent bleach it right away but if it felt strong is it still safe to beach it right after?

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  3. Would a filler be good before going from medium blonde to platinum? Does a filler make your hair a bit stonger?

    Sorry for all the questions, just need to know what all to buy for my hair change!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Great post! So (from the title) corrective color is like "corrective shoes"; something is unbalanced one way, so you add something that's unbalanced the other way, and when you put them together, it combines to get you to your target. What about color that isn't light enough? From what I'm reading here, that would mean your color formula was wrong, and would need to be adjusted. But how do you fix it once it's already happened?

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  5. Thanks for this very informative post. My colorist was just telling me last week that once blond, if I want to go back to my natural level 7 hair she will need to use a filler. I wasn't sure exactly what she meant, but this fills in all the blanks for me.

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  6. Ant,
    Those are too big of questions without knowing more info. I wouldn't want to give the wrong advice. I do Consults....otherwise talk to your stylist.
    KC

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  7. Jenifer,
    I always learn what I missed covering from your Posts, which I jot down for future posts, so thanks!

    The only time you need a filler is when you are going from VERY LIGHT to -----> DARK.

    It "fills in" the warmth missing.

    KC

    ReplyDelete
  8. Anonymous #1,
    I know most of you shiver when I say this, but a great Colorist can use Bleach and fix about 50% of all mistakes.
    We could never exist without it!
    KC

    ReplyDelete
  9. Anonymous #2,
    Hang on to her. 50% of all Stylists have no idea what a Filler is. Frightening, isn't it?

    How about that being a great question for those of you looking for a new Stylist!
    thank you for kind posts.

    KC

    ReplyDelete

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