To Bleach Or Not To Bleach: That Is The Question

Level 12 Hair  =  Platinum Blond Hair

The fascination that comes with Platinum Blond Hair is something that I believe has more to do with the fact that for hundreds of years – that color of hair did not exist on people of either sex . Yes, many children are born as “tow-heads” . .  but as they age I would say 88% gradually darken to brunettes before 18 years of age, about 10% will remain a Level 7/8  and a mere 1-2% will make it to adulthood as natural light blonds. About 1% make it to adulthood as a “light” Blond and ‘none’ make it as the toe-head <> platinum blond we are talking about in this post.  I don’t ‘make up’ the statistics – I merely observe them. When things are “rare” they are more treasured. Its that way with anything …….cars, furniture, skin, jewelry, clothing – everything. . Especially beauty items such as  hair & haircolor  . . . platinum hair to men to women & to everyone… is just striking - - it is sexy – plain and simple. The Bleach and Tone process is what this process is called.
Hair Coloring just happens to be one of the oldest beauty procedures – it was used by various ancient cultures as a sign of affluence, much like it is today. When I was working the Salon in Malibu all those years, I would watch the 14 – 18 year old children of celebrities – ask for $200. – $600. procedures - - frequently. There is no way I am condemning a process in which my own children partake in as well, so please do not think I was judging.

The use of hair coloring was shown in records of ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians, Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention the use of hair colorings.. Early hair dyes were made from plants, metallic compounds, or a mixture of the two. Rock alum, quicklime, and wood ash were used for bleaching hair in Roman times, and herbal preparations included mullein, birch bark, saffron, myrrh, and turmeric. Another early method of coloring hair was to apply powder. Pure white powder for hair or wigs was the show of high-class dress in Europe during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. White powder was made of wheat starch or potato starch, sometimes mixed with plaster of paris, flour, chalk, or burnt alabaster. Similarly colored powders were sometimes used as well.Think of how we have come full-circle, have you seen the products that all resemble TOPPIK ? ? For some reason since the dawn of time we have been compelled to alter our hair color. . .personally I simply find it ‘fun’ – a very non-interesting reason I suppose. When I first began my full-blown practice in the Salon (stopped educating) – I would think and I would actually tell people. . .” the joy I receive from transforming people’s lives with just their hair… is so rewarding that I wish I could do their hair free of charge”.



The reason for the admiration of this color? . . . because it is RARE. . . it is not easy to get, it is expensive to have (done correctly) and to keep up on.This is the hair color that the term “high maintenance” was developed. It is truly the most expensive hair to keep up on, people like Ms.Stefani, Ms. Aguilera will have their base re-done about every 10 -12 - 14 days in order to keep it fresh, new although mainly so there are NO ROOTS in any photos.Think about it . . . ever seen 1 photo of Gwen Stefani with roots showing? Christina?  When bleached roots are re-touched very frequently like that it must be done by skilled hands so there is no “overlap” taking place and there is a sufficient amount of pH balancing and Conditioning going on to keep the hair in “tip-top” shape. So no breakage takes place and the process can continue. All you need is the education this Blog exhibits and I am happy to announce we are finally working on a book in which all “like” Posts and all “like” Demo’s will be in the same Chapter. . . how about that prospect? Regardless of that, all the information is already here. Just do some sincere studying, reading and reviewing of all pertinent Posts to this topic. I have found many members who are truly trying to educate themselves in the Art of Hair Color, as a wonderfully challenging hobby to take up, are purchasing 1 even 2 mannequins to test their prospective hair colors on. 

I can tell you there is a completely different outside ‘visual’ assessment of a person when they have brown hair versus blond. I wish it wasn’t so, just like I wish there was no judging, no prejudice, or bias’ BUT Every single person I have ever changed from a dark hair color to …Platinum ( or any shade of LIGHT Blond, for that matter). . . has told me that their life has been completely transformed by the process. Just know that, keep that piece of information in your pocket - - because I do feel that every person should be a blond, at least once in their life. If for no other reason than for plain and simple FUN ! My one exception is natural born red-heads . . . they should NOT go platinum . . . a pretty widely known hair coloring rule that I am 100% behind.
There are so many hair stylists that will have a bad experience with the Bleach and Tone process, by leaving the bleach on too long and therefore creating lots of breakage (100% completely avoidable - btw). So many of you are afraid of bleach and there is no need to be. What IS necessary is learning how to properly use it. I am of the school that there is no better coloring tool than Bleach and I find different needs for all 3 types of Bleach: 1) Cream Bleach  2) Oil Bleach and last but not least 3) Powder Bleach. All 3 have different purposes and different consistencies . There is just no way to lighten most people’s hair “past” that God-awful stage of brass without Bleach, those hair stylists that bad-mouth Bleach and attempt to lighten hair with Tint, leave the mark of a poorly trained Stylist in most cases. So many of the people who end up on Killerstrands are the product of this situation and want to take back control of their hair and hair color - - by learning exactly how hair color works. Until I decided to open up the previously “closed” books of professional hair color rules, there was no where to go to learn this information.
 

Left side Bleach and tone . . . Right-side Bleach and NO Tone

This rare and wonderful treat of platinum hair, the next step is for me to teach and explain how to get this rare commodity in the most safe and correct method there is.
The Technical Names for the Oil Bleach System :

• 2 Step process
  
• Double-Process &
  
• Bleach and Tone

Its funny in the Vidal Sassoon Hair Academy we were taught to never use the word “bleach” – that people are afraid of that ‘specific’ word, to use the word “lightener” instead. That the fear comes from not knowing what “bleach” is (I have tested this theory out with my clients as to what they think and picture). People picture in their head the only thing they know to be Bleach…. You know > that weird clear liquid that smells horrific, which can only be put in with ‘whites’ when you do your Laundry, and if it drops on anything it removes the color immediately. . . so, understandably, its a scary concept to the public.That bleach and the bleach we use on the hair are completely different products, which is what needs to be firmly taught to everyone. They just happen to have the same name, although truly within the hair color world we always call it Lightener. . . except when referring to Oil and Cream Bleach
Hair Stylists do nothing ( I have observed) to alleviate that unknown fear – as most like to leave their clients in the dark. They act as though they have some super power knowledge of hair chemicals that they are not allowed to ‘share’ - - I continue to work towards the opposing theory of this… that has been prevalent for the last 50 years. I want the client…the public…the young and old hair color client… to have the complete knowledge of how hair color works. KNOWLEDGE ELIMINATES FEAR. I want to empower the public to: want to learn how hair color works :it is one of the most important topics to me: and is the goal of this BLOG.
No Colorist can deny the pleasure of turning hair that is dark into gorgeous – beautiful PLATINUM – TONED, hair. That transformation is absolutely the best feeling I have found in coloring hair. Why? It is taking the hair strand through all the stages of the Level System and basically hitting the GOLDMINE of not having any color left in the strands. Learning how to Bleach & Tone is the mark of a true master of Color, in my book.

This is Part 1 of my 2 part series on the Double Process of Bleach/Tone http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/oil-bleach-kit-exclusive-to-killerstrands
Killer Chemist

The Best Shampoo In The World in The Ugliest Bottle in The World

Sometimes the Package Really Shouldn’t Matter
What would you think of a shampoo that was Sulfate-Free 15 years ago? How about a Shampoo that ‘counters’ all the bad effects of hard water – naturally ? What about a shampoo that was a funky mix of Aqua Blue-Green in clear bottle with a label from the 80’s? You would never buy it ………..BUT YOU SHOULD as what it does – will really & truly make your hair squeeky clean, light as a feather and act differently than any shampoo you have ever used. The brand? Malibu 2000 the shampoo? UN DOO GOO. I have been using this shampoo since the first week of Hair Academy  - - Vidal Sassoon’s Colorists and Cutters both swore by it and that was 16 years ago. Not till I repeated that tidbit of information  to myself the other day was I reminded how brilliant this odd colored Shampoo truly is.
Lets tackle the “hard water” issue as its something – so extremely common and so horribly harmful to your hair.                                                       
80%+ of all households out there ( this means YOU) have hard water running through their shower heads and directly onto your hair strands. That is NOT ADVISABLE and is one of the mandatory Steps of the 10,000HEADS Hair Strengthening Regimen in which I plead for everyone to follow.
Condition: Hard Water
Over 85% of the population in the U.S., according to the Water Quality Association, are bathing with hard water. While hard water is fine for drinking (although I beg to differ on that subject as well), it can cause many problems for your hair, scalp and skin
These problems include:

• Hair feels dry
  
• Hair is resistant to color or perming
  
• Dandruff or eczema of the scalp
  
• Dry, flaky skin
  
• Thinning hair
  
• Colors fading too quickly
  
• Perms appearing to fall out
  
• Discoloration or darkening of hair
  
• Hair lacks body and shine

HOW YOUR WATER AFFECTS YOUR HAIR

The water you use to wash your hair, scalp, and skin comes from one of two sources:

• Ground Water
  
• Surface Water

Ground Water
If your water comes from the ground, it is either from your own well or from the local treatment plant that derives the water from wells pumping water from the ground. The source of ground water is from rain passing through aquifers, which are layers of minerals. The acidity (pH below 7) of the rain increases the dissolving effect of minerals. These dissolved solids are found in the water when pumped above the ground and used to bathe.
Surface Water
If your water comes from the treatment plant which derives the water from a surface source, the water is coming from either a river or a lake. Surface water usually contains less minerals because the water has not filtered down through the mineral layers. However, increasing populations are polluting the water causing additional bacteria growth. As a result, the treatment plants must add more chlorine to kill bacteria and then add lime (a calcium compound) to help control the chlorine levels.
Water hardness is determined by the level of calcium that is in the water either found naturally from the ground or put into the water by the treatment plant.
While calcium is the element that determines hardness of water, there are many other elements in the water that effect the texture, volume, shine, control and health of hair.
What are the minerals that effect hair?

• Calcium
  
• Iron
  
• Copper
  
• Magnesium
  
• Silica
  
• Lead

What other elements effect hair?

• Chlorine -a harsh oxidizer added to the water to kill bacteria also adversely effects hair.

How do minerals and chlorine attach to the hair?
Our hair, scalp and skin have an electrical charge and that charge is negative. Minerals and oxidizers are charged positive. When a positively charged mineral comes in contact with our hair, scalp, or skin, it attaches on like a magnet.

How do hard water minerals and chlorine effect hair?
Calcium - If your source for water is a well, then more than likely you have calcium in your water. If your source for water is coming from a treatment plant, calcium may have been added to your water. Calcium is the mineral that determines hardness of water.
How calcium effects hair:

• Calcium leaves the hair feeling dry and weighted down. It can even cause a perm to appear relaxed.
  
• Calcium builds up on the scalp causing flaking of the scalp, giving the appearance of dandruff.
  
• Calcium can choke the hair at the mouth of the follicle causing the hair to break off, then coating the scalp, blocking further new hair growth.

Iron - Iron is found in ground water from domestic wells and wells used by treatment plants as the source for local water.
How iron effects hair:

• Iron leaves the hair feeling dry, brittle and weighted down.
  
• Iron can cause dark hair to tint darker and blonde hair to turn orange.
  
• Iron can block perms and color from properly processing.

Copper - Copper originates in water in three ways:

1. It comes from the ground and is pumped into the water from a well.
   
2. Particles of copper can come from copper piping. The corrosion caused by hard water lifts the copper particles off the pipes and deposits them into the water.
   
3. Copper sulfates are added to swimming pools to control the growth of algae. Copper is often added to lakes (that are a source of drinking water) in the summer to kill algae.

How copper effects hair:

• Copper discolors hair causing blonde hair to turn green and dark hair to tint darker.
  
• Copper can weigh hair down and cause dryness.
  
• Copper can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color and relaxers.

Magnesium - Usually found wherever calcium comes naturally from the ground, magnesium is abundant in the soil and is very much a part of the mineral complex associated with hard water.
How magnesium effects hair:

• Magnesium causes hair to feel dry.
  
• Magnesium causes hair to appear weighted down.
  
• Magnesium can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color and relaxers.
  
• Magnesium causes hair to lack shine.

Silica - Silica is a sand-like substance found in desert or volcanic areas. It is usually bound to calcium or magnesium and forms very hard, virtually insoluble deposits.
How silica effects hair:
Silica causes many of the same effects on the hair as calcium.

• Silica causes hair to feel dry.
  
• Silica weighes hair down.
  
• Silica can cause dandruff-like symptoms of flaking.
  
• Build up of silica can choke the hair follicle causing hair to fall out.

Lead - Lead acetate is used in certain home remedy gray hair cover-ups.
How lead effects hair:

• Lead can cause the hair to feel dry.
  
• Lead can prevent the proper processing of perms, color, and relaxers.

Chlorine - unlike the other elements listed above, chlorine is not a mineral but an oxidizer. Chlorine is put into drinking water and swimming pools to kill bacteria. In addition to the following effects chlorine has on hair, due to it's oxidizing effects, chlorine also oxidizes minerals onto the hair causing worse effects of those minerals.
How chlorine effects hair:

• Active chlorine in the hair can cause hair to feel gummy when wet and straw-like when dry.
  
• Chlorine can damage the cuticle and proteins of the hair.
  
• As an oxidizer, chlorine can cause the air and sun to oxidize hair and worsen the conditions listed above.
  
• Chlorine can cause hair to feel dry.
  
• Chlorine can cause hair to become brittle.
  
• Chlorine can cause hair to lack shine.

O.K.
Feel like you have now been hit in your head with a brick and you better cut off every water pipe to your home?
Well, you don’t. Education – Education is the road to the Solutions to your problems - - how big or small.
All you need is

• 1 Treatment pack for Hard Water (we throw in a free plastic treatment cap to get the full effects from it. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/hard-water-weekly-demineralizer-pack
• 1 - 9oz.Bottle of Un Doo Goo Shampoo or Well Water Action Shampoo         http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/malibu-un-do-goo-shampoo

These photos have been “Photo Shopped” for sure, or hey maybe its me and my taste. But I still stick by my “ worlds ugliest bottle” quote!

Sulfate-Free Shampoos – Pros, Cons + Scope

  People are Finally Paying Attention . . . . and to see a frequently running shampoo commercial on TV where the main TAG Line is : “Sulfate-Free Shampoo” (L’Oreal has Eva Longoria hawking a new one) – truly feels like a huge victory for me…my theory…and my work to get these damaging shampoo’s OFF the shelves for you. I have been hawking this theory of mine for 10-12 years (sorry, my memory sucks). 
16 years spent on over 10,000 heads of hair. . . that is my proof. I am 100% positive of this one theory. At the time of all my testing I would pick out random females in all age groups that I was concerned about ( in my regular clientele) that would get one of my “new” test shampoos. Unbeknownst to them, some had SLS-Free shampoo and some had SLS Shampoo. Remember now, this was 10 years ago, 98% of the companies used SLS in their shampoos. Why? It cost pennies and lathered up into super suds like nobody’s business. People like lots and lots of suds, I don’t know why but they do. Now, what would happen over the course of 3-4 months since I had seen them, would be the result of the test. EVERY SINGLE TIME – the shampoo with SLS in it  --  the client would complain of hair loss, hair thinning – & lots and lots of shedding. Plus, the clients with the SLS-Free Shampoo would not complain of it – AT ALL. Yep, it probably was not super scientific, but as far as I was concerned, the experiment gave me a 100% solid answer to the question that had me very upset and puzzled for over a year. . . .  I had a huge percentage of my female clientele { from 17—65] complaining of severe hair thinning/loss and I needed to find a common denominator. No one else was.
We did this randomly over the course of 1 year, all 6 { my assistants & I } of us were completely and undeniably convinced that we would never EVER use Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in our shampoos ever again in our life – Period. So, the battle began, I would get nothing but rejection when contacting the product manufacturers - - it was very hard at the beginning. I was fighting the “Big Boys” – basically alone. So again, with L’Oreal busting out their new “sulfate-free shampoo line” all over the TV screen just gives me this underlying thrill, for all the years I have been fighting the ‘big boys’. Finally  - -  all my work and research, is now rewarded ( in a weird way – but hey – I’ll take it). 

At the beginning of my research into this problem, I had a hard time believing it. I just could not believe that all these companies would be using something that would cause this. Seemed pretty important to me. It wasn’t till 2 years later and my study of Cosmetic Chemistry that I fully understood the ramifications of the Sodium Lauryl Sulfate addition to shampoo’s. The actual purchase of the product ( SLS)  was all I needed to completely lock up my hypothesis.( I am not a scientist) But as I studied and learned I also injected my “common sense” to the picture. Don’t ever think that part of your brain is not important - - because it is.
Now with my adventure into taking Cosmetic Chemistry courses and befriending 2  well respected Cosmetic Chemists – a whole new world of enlightenment began. I wish there were honest – Cosmetic Chemists who would speak up to the public - -  but I understand - - they make their weekly paychecks by the big companies and are on contract with the large hair care product manufacturers. So truthfully – they would be out of a job, and no, I don’t think I would give up my job to point out this problem either. I prefer being realistic here. There is that silly website, BEAUTY BRAINS….everyone asks questions of a team of (supposed) Cosmetic Chemists – I’ve always thought – they are a group of “smart” internet geeks – and just “Google” every question. They have slammed me many times, which I find odd . . . claiming everything I sell is to make money and screw you. If you truly read my blog, and hear my voice - - - that accusation simply is not true….for the 1st year, I thought I would be dead very soon ( I have a a very rare and deadly bone disease).  The first year I simply wanted to - “give back”  to a whole lot of people I did not know – for NO REASON - - - so that if my life ended in a year {as I felt it was}. . . I would have a tiny legacy. I was the first one to tear down the walls that hair stylists put up, to keep their clients/public out of. Every single person knew what I was talking about in that aspect. I will fully admit that I did that myself . . . I kept my formula’s secret. I kept the way to cover gray hair locked up. My tricks to the perfect blond were never given out. My tricks in going blond to brown and then back again  - -  locked up in a private cabinet. As a Hair Stylist the only thing you have is the knowledge you have learned and the successes you have produced – so you and I must understand there is a perfectly valid reason for it.

What I discovered (from talking to so many of you across this great nation) was that most of you live in small towns sprinkled across the country and you have tried every Salon in your town. . .  with the results being horrific. So you are forced to do it yourself. Many using my own named “Crap-in-a-box” Kits {Hair Color Box Kits} . .. ending up again, with horrible results - - so you begin the trek through all the hair web sites on the web. I cannot tell you how many people every single week: write me with a comment very similar to : I AM SO GLAD I FOUND THIS WEBSITE, finally a place where you can get the truth about hair. It might not be things you want to hear  . . . but if you follow 10,000HEADS – a 14 step Regimen to thicker – stronger – healthier hair……..your hair WILL CHANGE……period. I am not worried at all if it might not work for someone . . . because the success rate is just absolutely – completely – phenomenal. Seriously !

So I wanted to share my joy with the general acceptance of the idea that all shampoos need to be Sulfate- FREE .  Do your part and no matter where you purchase your shampoo – ASK FOR SULFATE-FREE and let your preference be known. There is not a Salon Shampoo made now-a-days that isn’t Sulfate-Free {another Victory for my movement I feel }. They all have learned and we are talking hundreds of brands of shampoos.

Killer Chemist

Are You “Up In The Air” About Which Color Formula to Use On Your Hair?

Think you have it all figured out, but want a professional to double check?

KILLERSTRANDS Store (www.Killerstrands.com) has a new kit for this exact situation. We have called it something very original … the “UP-IN-THE-AIR Kit” or UITA Kit well….maybe not.  Now, some of you may remember we tried this before, and it failed. No one does it on the Internet and I know why, its almost impossible. But, its much better than using boxed hair color which offers absolutely NO help… for the exact same process. I realize this is a big GIANT problem and probably too big for one person like little ole me . . . but I am taking it on anyway. With each attempt I learn something new….and who knows maybe this is the wrong approach as well . . . but at least I am trying.
On the previous attempt in trying to help people find their formula, I ran into 3 problems that needed to be conquered :

• answers submitted were much too long and had no bearing on outcome
• clients did not take time to learn “level System” ( mandatory - for this to work)
• clients answers required an email exchange which did not suit the system

In order for me to offer this economical and quick . . . hair color help, there just has to be some rules. Otherwise I receive “novels’’ of individuals hair history that I simply do not have the ‘time’ to read  - - PLUS . . .are not relevant to what we are trying to figure out.
I realize everyone wants to tell me their personal history of how they got to where they are. . . but, that simply just does not matter in this case……….. none of that is important, it really isn’t. The only thing that is truly important, is the answers to the VID questions:

1. V………. what “Level & Tone” your hair is VIRGIN (V- with nothing on it) ??
2. I……….. what Level & Tone your hair IS (I) now  ??    and finally
3. D………. what Level & Tone do you DESIRE your hair to be ??

With the UITA we do give you the advantage of answering the KILLER8, which does give those of you that have the misconception that MORE information is better a chance to add some additional knowledge about your hair.


Coming up with a person’s hair color formulation is an art, a very treasured and rare art. The most important part for this to work for you, is following the directions.
The remainder of the Killer 8 questions are as follows:
4. What is percentage of Gray?  ……………( example of a perfect answer: 40%)
5. What is your DURP? …………….(ex. of perfect answer: Brass) this is Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment or that darn pigment that is hard to get rid of.
6. What is your texture?…………(ex. of perfect answer: fine/straight)
7. What is porosity & overall condition?…………(ex. of perfect answer: porous ends – damaged all over)
8. Length & Thickness ?……….(ex. of perfect answer: shoulder length + medium thickness)
The reason for this post is because we have already had some of our customers purchase the UITA and not answers the Killer8 correctly. I truly want to offer this service to many of you that need and want it, but if I am to do so . .  the only way it will work is if people follow the above example of how to answer the questions, exactly.
Please remember that the Up-In-Air-Kit’s longevity depends ON YOU, following the above directions. They are simple, but need you to take the time to read them and learn the Level System . . . which is so simple I taught it to a 12 yr.old last week.
Thank You and be sure to join our GOOGLE GROUP if you have not already, there is a lot of guidance in there about how things run here at Killerstrands . . . which can only benefit you.
Killer Chemist

2010 Fall Hair – Portion Control : Cuts, Colors & Craziness

Receiving multiple HAIR magazines from Europe every month on the newest hair styles, I find it fun to look at what the 20 year olds in high fashion are wearing. No, it doesn’t fit me, most of my clients and NONE of my family or friends. . . yet still I find it necessary to staying on top of the hair world and many times will pick “pieces” of the visions to incorporate into someone's hair to update it.
From undercuts to fringes ( bangs) shaggy midi’s to super-sharp bobs check ‘em out and if you can’t take on the entire trend, take a portion of it. I call it “portion-control” in HAIR STYLE mode.
First we have the coloring technique we refer to as Drips. Tip Drips. Paint Drips. Hair Trends are repeated constantly and when they do this in England they bring the same look out 8-10, 14 months later - -  they simply change the name and use new photos to display it. In this months magazine “they” call it: DIRTY BLOND.  At the beginning of this technique some 8 years ago, I thought it was going to be a 1 season style never to be seen again, I was completely 100% wrong  -- on that one. Some of you will look at this look as though….”oh my Lord she needs her roots done….NOPE ….that IS the look. As I recently told a new client that was interested in the look . . . its not your own hair color growing in it is a darker more richer brown you actually “apply”  to made the  look “intentional” and not as if you just were too lazy to get your base done.


The GRAPHIC BOB


The Groupie
Mix up textures… Straight Fringe, braided or crimped ends…

Ruffle-up
…….Change short hair into a completely different vibe by using either pin curls ( yep we are back to those) or a small curling iron ( always using a protection spray http://killerstrands.com/protection spray )

COLOR: In Reds………..Fall 2010: say goodbye to subtle Copper Europe tells us, crank it up a few notches to
Rockstar Red

Remember with reds, if you want to keep it super vibrant to use  KillerStrands Product: GLIMMER http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-glimmer-colored-conditioners……..we will match any hair color with a sister colored conditioner to keep it bright and vivacious..between Color touch-ups.
the Brits call this the Sweeping Shortie……me?
I call it the Fem Bieber ( Justin)  - - until I saw the Video Music Awards last week I thought the whole Justin Bieber thing was really screwy. He is talented and he caught my attention, I admire A N Y O N E with talent. . .in an facet of life. I know men are asking for the “Justin”…..now women will too!

This is keeping the front layers of a crop longer, which allows you to sweep them over your eye. So much of this is the “cut”. Spend as much money as you can possibly afford to get a good hair cut – it is my recommendation to never cut corners in this area. Once you get a fantastic cut and someone who understands the geometry of cutting hair, you too will get it.
 

I am so sorry there is no access to “comments”  . . . recently BLOGGER changed their whole design and in the process I lost the ability to have “comments” to my Posts. Remember I am not a computer whiz………HAIR IS MY SPECIALTY!  If anyone would like to volunteer to help me fix this issue, please contact Betty, Nik or Adem in the group . . . .
Thank you soooooooo much for all of your support.
Killer Chemist

10,000HEADS (Healthy Hair Regimen) 10th Year Anniversary: Healthy Hair Never Goes Out of Style

Noting that it has been a little over the 16th year since I came up with the 10,000 Heads protocol, I felt the need to pay homage to its inception. The one and only reason the whole thing began? I just saw way too many young girls coming into the Salon with hair thinning/loss, I didn’t point it out to them, but I decided firmly I needed to try to figure out what it was.
The beginning. . . .
I made a turn off the path I was on working in a extremely busy Salon, with an overloaded book of clients, there was not enough of me to go around. The turn initially was not taken voluntarily ...I came down with a rare bone disease pushing me into a year worth of treatments, I wouldn't wish on anyone. In the course of that year, I too lost 1/2 of my hair. Which was an epiphany to me that I was supposed to be working on the hair loss issue, I became driven to solving the subject of women's hair loss ("womens hair loss" is entirely different, than men's).
There is plenty of research and clinical trials concentrating on the male world of hair loss, very little was being done to help women. I knew from my own clientele the problem was bad and getting worse. Think about it, men’s hair loss starts at the 2 temples (we call them bowling alleys) and on the very tip top of their head. Many times its a loved one who notices it first. As it progresses the hair loss of the alleys spreads till it meets up with the top of the head. They have this standard Norwood Chart {which really needs updating} depicting it :


Women . . . I’m pretty sure most women would agree we don’t a have it quite so bad, because for us . . . its an all over loss, gradually. Mostly when it began -- it started a year or two before you noticed it. We are always losing hair  - - and that is completely normal ( a single hairs lifespan is 2-5 years on your head – it falls off and then it either does or does NOT replace itself ).  500 hairs per day is normal. . but when it turns to 700 then gradually to 900, you simply don’t notice it. I tell women this, so they don’t think it just started all of a sudden one day….it just doesn’t work that way. Many times you will notice the size of your pony tail being less thick than normal . . . and why? Because women lose hair gradually all over the entire head, instead of specific spots as the men do, which makes the way you tackle the problem completely different.Hair growth is also tied to hormones, and the 2 sexes have different hormones. When I began to dig into this problem the biggest difference I noticed, was how much research had been done in the area of men's hair loss and how little had been done on women’s. Just didn’t seem fair, although until lately no one was complaining of hair loss at a young age on the female side. Now it is out of control and someone needed an answer. I hated when people would sit in my chair with this complaint and I had nothing to offer them, people take their hair – very very seriously.

I had answers for my male clients ( Propecia, Rogaine & Cardio) and nothing for the females. Plus I was having more women with the complaint than men. I had to do something.
In order to properly figure this out I began my journey into Cosmetic Chemistry and Trichology. I spent the next 2 years, studying / apprenticing under a cosmetic chemist. That was the start of my goal in solving the problem of temporary hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) in women. I wanted to understand what every single ingredient was, what its chemical make-up is and how it works on the body. The idea of chemistry frightened me in high school but when I realized that cosmetic chemistry was simply organic chemistry ... I was disappointed in myself for not taking it, a way back when. Better late than never.

10,000HEADS started with 3 steps then went to 20. Over time I added, refined, subtracted, altered and finally... perfected... the individual steps. With the final critical discovery: the protocol works its best {with the highest success rate} when it is worked synergistically. In other words; each step depends on another, in order for all to work to their potential. Skipping steps is not allowed by anyone committing to the protocol, the first 90 days. It depends where your results are at, that 90 day test period, as to what you can let up on and what you can't, so it is not a lifetime of commitment. There is an end!
Fully aware that everyone wants a 'quick-fix' pill to solve this problem, I'm here to tell you...that simply does not exist in today's world. All the hair loss kits and pills and lotions and potions that you see are out there PLAIN and simply: DO NOT WORK. If they did, they would be approved by the FDA ( Federal Drug Administration) and the news would be all over the papers, news and TV. They wouldn’t be on infomercials at 3 in the morning, because to be perfectly honest- its against the law to advertise false claims. I know this, my claims are not false. What my program is………is a 14 step program you must try for ONLY 90 days to have an 80-90% chance your hair will be wonderful. My own hair is thicker and longer than it ever has been in my entire lifetime.

I promise you, solving hair loss and obesity are 2 of the top researched areas in every Lab of both the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industries. Solving hair loss is more important than solving cancer. Many cancer patients die, ending the need for their product, if they could get America a drug,cream or pill that solved hair loss they potentially would be a client for 50 years. Those industries are big business and any good business looks at the "bottom line" and profits.
I have absolutely no intention of badmouthing companies for their efforts to solve the female hair loss, that is not my goal here. The more people that work on it, the higher percentage rate we have in solving the problem. My concern is with the false advertising, its just not fair to the consumer . . they simply have not cured anything. I have heard the same from hundreds of clients, but more importantly I have tested all the weird products myself, in my own personal quest to improve my own hair. Hey, I am no different than anyone I want the quick fix pill as well.Can you imagine the day ( and it will come) when …….by taking 1 pill a day we would all have Jennifer Anniston hair, or even better….for life? How much would you pay for that?  

There are hundreds of companies that exist on a one time sale of a product to a consumer..in other words - no repeat business. Which is what all these hair loss products out there EXIST on {just you trying it once to see if by a chance in Hell that it worked}. I experienced this at a Salon I worked in, the owners daughter was the single worst hair stylist I had ever seen touch a head of hair. She would burn hair, send clients out crying, colour hair gold when it was supposed to be red. It just blew me away, could not figure out how she existed there…. she had been working there for 3 years prior to me coming and still works there today.Why?
Why, is what I asked over and over and over.  It took me a full year to figure out.
She did only "one-time clients" they never came back for repeat business, it was in Malibu and we had a LOT of tourist walk-in traffic…people wanted to say they got their hair “cut/colored in Malibu”….I had to move chairs it used to upset me so much. It was just a terrible representation of southern California hair or hair stylists in general . The following appointment was either with someone else or they never stepped in the Salon again, they ran for the hills!
Same theory for hair loss products on the market. These companies survive on the millions of 'one time buyers' out there. The 10,000HEADS Protocol is your answer when everything else fails. It works, and no, it’s not easy, it takes commitment & work… BUT it has a 81-89% success rate (on androgenetic alopecia or temporary hair loss – there are many different types – this is the most common). That is a fairly high number, to most.
I’ve settled into 14 steps to the 10,000HEADS HAIR LOSS Protocol for Females, now…You start from Step 14 as the most important and go up….nothing will improve if you don’t do Step 14,13,12 and 11. Those are mandatory, then as you add the others . .better the results  . . . get. I dare you.


To me . . . if you want thick gorgeous hair and other methods have not worked, 10,000 HEADS WILL WORK, but, you must commit to at least 6 Steps : half the program.. But that’s me and its why we are all different. 
As I said,Step 14 thru 11 are mandatory.
But I want the best for you, so I really hope and pray you will go for as many steps as you possibly can.
Killer Chemist

The “Motley” Color Technique – produces the “Un-Shoe-Polish” Look

Steps To  Natural Cover-up of Pesky Gray Hairs
  Want to turn back time and make you look as young as you feel? Killerstrands has a few tricks to turn men’s (and women with short hair) hair back to its original color. No, the boxed color kits you find in Walmart, Target or even Sally’s will not do the job, as a matter of fact those are the most harmful color one can apply to the hair, they do the worst job and contribute to hair loss & thinning.
You know what MOTLEY means? If you’re like me, you just thought it was the first half of Motely Crue’s name. . . . and a made up word…………….NOPE! Its a valid word and means something very specific. It means mottled . . .multi-colored.
Now in the first post I wrote a little while back I explained that you must learn the level system in order to ‘play’ in the world of hair color and accomplish it correctly. The level system is merely a 12 point System of lightness & darkness … you must figure that out first so we can all speak in “LEVELS” & tones in discussion of and about hair coloring.
Today's post is teaching those of you that want a blending of coverage so the look goes from this (approx):

to this:
~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~

“Motley Color” Technique
See how the gray is blended with the brown and it appears to be multi colors instead of just one? and its not a solid cap of solid dark brown or what most of you refer to as the “shoe polish” look. This is what I will teach you today. ( Women pay attention as you can take some of these concepts and use them with your hair issues )
The next thing you must decide is what type of hair color you should use. There are 2 to choose from, Demi- Permanent and Permanent.
You must decide that, before you begin this whole process. I know how men work, they want the simplest directions possible and the easiest road to a good result. What I always have to remind myself of, is……that 95% of you do not have access to the type of hair ‘cutting’ and “coloring’ techniques we have here in LA, that is one of a couple strong reasons I go to all this trouble, in basically giving out a career full of hair secrets & tricks. I feel everyone in the country should have the same advantages, not just us that live near the 2 biggest cities in the country. For some reason that just doesn’t seem fair to me . . . it seems like the same info should be available to everyone in every state in every city (large and small). So, I just keep writing and divulging my career secrets.
There are 4 different combinations of Color and Application Techniques you have a choice of to accomplish the above look.
First the Hair Color types to choose from:

1. Demi Permanent Hair Color w/ the “Motley Color” technique( as seen above
2. Demi Permanent Hair Color and the “All-Over” Technique ( different strokes for different folks)
3. Permanent Hair Color w/ the “Motley Color” technique (above)
4. Permanent Hair Color and the “All-Over” technique

Demi-Permanent Hair Color : We carry and recommend the Number 1 brand in the world, Wella’s : Color Touch. Demi permanent is the one that gradually shampoos out over time. Now just to confuse things a little more, This particular Demi Permanent color has 2 options . . . the developer you mix the actual Tint with comes in 2 strengths…..6 Volume and 13 Volume. Using 6 Volume means it will wash out twice as fast as 13 Volume.
To be frank…….if you are covering Gray hair ( the hardest hair to cover) using 6 volume will be kind of a waste of time. . .  as it will wash out pretty fast. On the other hand, if you are nervous about coloring your hair and want to use the color with the least commitment (washes out the quickest) . . .  Wella Color Touch – Demi Permanent & 6 Volume Developer is your ticket.
Demi – Permanent Hair Color is the NEWEST category of hair color and was developed only in the last 12-14 years….  it is both determined by the “volume’” strength of developer (Demi = runs from 3 Volume to 18 Volume ) along with the tube of color being a Demi-permanent formula.
The choice I usually “begin” with a new client looking for a Blended look in calming down the GRAY in their hair is COLOR TOUCH(which runs a level darker than other lines, or it appears) and 13Volume (the stronger of the 2 developers) so it will last longer. As much as people of all races, types and genre’s worry about hair color, after doing it for years, you develop a certain confidence in the choice you make for people. Yes, they worry about the first time coloring their hair, but more often than naught . . . after the initial shock of having color on their hair for the first time I will say 10 out of 10 end up loving it. . . . and they ‘want’ it to last as long as possible.
Now, once I have gained their confidence after the first application….with the second one I will encourage the use of permanent hair color. The deal is, the best coverage of Gray hair is using PERMANENT HAIR COLOR .Gray hair is the most difficult to cover successfully, so the trick to covering it is having the top-of-the-line color AND the proper Formula. We carry X-Factor for our Permanent Hair Color Line, it is the top hair color for gray coverage although was developed in Europe so it does run a full level darker than other lines. You must purchase 2 tubes of color for covering gray, if you decide to purchase from us, which I would encourage . . . please put the level of your hair color on your order ( in the box at checkout) with the code words “ MOTLEY COLOR “  and we will send you the 2 colors you need to cover your gray PROPERLY and then you will have your “formula”, which is half the battle.
Now to cover gray, you will always use 20 Volume Developer . . . so you don’t have to worry about ‘which’ developer to use with Permanent Color. So, if you have Level 6 color, just input “Level 6 + Gray Coverage” . . in the box at check out. Be sure to purchase 2 tubes, you only mix what you are going to use . .  so provided you don’t have hair the length of a chicks, you should get 2-3 applications out of the first – 2 - Tubes you purchase… and we would send you Level 7 colors because of the Euro difference in color. 
Now for the tricky part . . .  the  application techniques.
We have 3 - - I only use 1 but am thinking maybe I should tell you of all 3. This info is for the everyday person to learn how to deal with their own hair at home, because they can’t find a qualified person to do it for them. Anyway, back to the task at hand….APPLICATION.
First picture there is:

The BOUNCE TECHNIQUE : This photo is a not-so-hot rendering of this application which involves a sea sponge ( you know those rough – round- looking sponges that are a soft yellow color) Why those? They are not even and will impart a more real, more natural, look than a flat rectangle sponge will. So you mix the color, and dip the sponge into the color bowl BOUNCE it on and off the head….Begin sponging on the mixed color sporadically throughout the head shape.. . . Now whether you would use this method or not would depend on the ‘length’ of hair…short hair as this photo demonstrates: 
would work best with this technique
Continue bouncing the sponge color onto hair until desired dimension is achieved. Be careful you do not apply too much ( biggest mistake made with this technique) – go lightly . .  you can always apply more. Give yourself one attempt at experimentation.. . .  have a sheet of paper handy – to practice your technique on before you hit the hair. Once finished, let the color process a full hour…. what does it matter you are doing it at home, work on the computer, watch TV or work with it on your head . . . one of the biggest mistakes in covering gray? Left on way too short of time.
Second there is:

PINSTRIPING: Now this Photo gives you an idea of how its supposed to be applied, its up to YOU to not make it so stripe-y looking, this technique is for a little bit longer hair than BOUNCE. The main difference in the 3 applications has to do with how long the guys hair is. Everything is so accepted nowadays I had to come up with methods for ALL lengths of hair. Now you must use a sponge applicator, like this……………….
or this is even better ( both we carry and are on their way to us as we speak)

we are out, but they should be arriving in 5-6 days ( they say)



Dip the end of the sponge applicator into the mixed up and ready to go Color bowl.. Begin by hand painting  stripes of 2 colors maybe even 3 if you really want to get into it…sparingly throughout the head shape.
Continue hand painting until desired coverage is achieved. . .  again the main problem always being people using TOO MUCH color. Its easy to add more, hard to erase - - easy to add more to.
Last but not least is my favorite . . .  the
Motley Technique
Using a tint brush…………………………………………( which is one of these ) 
which is what we use to apply hair color - - - you take an Application Comb……which is one of these 

mix up the hair color and take big scoops of
the hair color and paint in onto the teeth of the comb. Then quickly take the comb and comb through the ‘lengths’ of the hair strands. This, obviously is for longer hair . . . as there needs to be a little bit of “lengths” to comb ON to… So what happens is the color is combed onto the hair leaving a very very natural look. I feel nothing looks at natural and as “less- shoe—polish than the Motley Technique. This was a maneuver taught in V.S. Academy that I modified to work correctly. I have used it for 16 years and on thousands of clients – always successfully. If you order from us I attach a couple little tricks to make your first attempt even easier.. . . as I do with almost all the hair color we sell.

MOTLEY Technique
Now what I would imagine most would want to do is to try which ever technique of application suits you . .  ( yes, of course they all take a little practice – if you really want some practice leading up to the big color day. . . . spray shaving foam in a bowl and pretend its hair color. Practice with the foam and the sponge, or the comb . . .  and just get an idea how it will work . . . 
If all else fails, get a sister, mom, grandma, you would be surprized the women that would get a thrill helping you .
Hope that help – any questions. . .  join the Google Group . . .we have . .  for some reason the comments to this Blog have been deleted ( not by me . .  I have no idea how to get it back )