September 2, 2010

The “Motley” Color Technique – produces the “Un-Shoe-Polish” Look

Steps To  Natural Cover-up of Pesky Gray Hairs
  Want to turn back time and make youAndersonCooper-1 look as young as you feel? Killerstrands has a few tricks to turn men’s (and women with short hair) hair back to its original color. No, the boxed color kits you find in Walmart, Target or even Sally’s will not do the job, as a matter of fact those are the most harmful color one can apply to the hair, they do the worst job and contribute to hair loss & thinning.
You know what MOTLEY means? If you’re like me, you just thought it was the first half of Motely Crue’s name. . . . and a made up word…………….NOPE! Its a valid word and means something very specific. It means mottled . . .multi-colored.
Now in the first post I wrote a little while back I explained that you must learn the level system in order to ‘play’ in the world of hair color and accomplish it correctly. The level system is merely a 12 point System of lightness & darkness … you must figure that out first so we can all speak in “LEVELS” & tones in discussion of and about hair coloring.
Today's post is teaching those of you that want a blending of coverage so the look goes from this (approx):
Crown n Glory521
to this:
~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~    ~
Crown n Glory520
“Motley Color” Technique
See how the gray is blended with the brown and it appears to be multi colors instead of just one? and its not a solid cap of solid dark brown or what most of you refer to as the “shoe polish” look. This is what I will teach you today. ( Women pay attention as you can take some of these concepts and use them with your hair issues )
The next thing you must decide is what type of hair color you should use. There are 2 to choose from, Demi- Permanent and Permanent.
You must decide that, before you begin this whole process. I know how men work, they want the simplest directions possible and the easiest road to a good result. What I always have to remind myself of, is……that 95% of you do not have access to the type of hair ‘cutting’ and “coloring’ techniques we have here in LA, that is one of a couple strong reasons I go to all this trouble, in basically giving out a career full of hair secrets & tricks. I feel everyone in the country should have the same advantages, not just us that live near the 2 biggest cities in the country. For some reason that just doesn’t seem fair to me . . . it seems like the same info should be available to everyone in every state in every city (large and small). So, I just keep writing and divulging my career secrets.
There are 4 different combinations of Color and Application Techniques you have a choice of to accomplish the above look.
First the Hair Color types to choose from:
  1. Demi Permanent Hair Color w/ the “Motley Color” technique( as seen above
  2. Demi Permanent Hair Color and the “All-Over” Technique ( different strokes for different folks)
  3. Permanent Hair Color w/ the “Motley Color” technique (above)
  4. Permanent Hair Color and the “All-Over” technique
Demi-Permanent Hair Color : We carry and recommend the Number 1 brand in the world, Wella’s : Color Touch. Demi permanent is the one that gradually shampoos out over time. Now just to confuse things a little more, This particular Demi Permanent color has 2 options . . . the developer you mix the actual Tint with comes in 2 strengths…..6 Volume and 13 Volume. Using 6 Volume means it will wash out twice as fast as 13 Volume.
To be frank…….if you are covering Gray hair ( the hardest hair to cover) using 6 volume will be kind of a waste of time. . .  as it will wash out pretty fast. On the other hand, if you are nervous about coloring your hair and want to use the color with the least commitment (washes out the quickest) . . .  Wella Color Touch – Demi Permanent & 6 Volume Developer is your ticket.
Demi – Permanent Hair Color is the NEWEST category of hair color and was developed only in the last 12-14 years….  it is both determined by the “volume’” strength of developer (Demi = runs from 3 Volume to 18 Volume ) along with the tube of color being a Demi-permanent formula.
The choice I usually “begin” with a new client looking for a Blended look in calming down the GRAY in their hair is COLOR TOUCH(which runs a level darker than other lines, or it appears) and 13Volume (the stronger of the 2 developers) so it will last longer. As much as people of all races, types and genre’s worry about hair color, after doing it for years, you develop a certain confidence in the choice you make for people. Yes, they worry about the first time coloring their hair, but more often than naught . . . after the initial shock of having color on their hair for the first time I will say 10 out of 10 end up loving it. . . . and they ‘want’ it to last as long as possible.
Now, once I have gained their confidence after the first application….with the second one I will encourage the use of permanent hair color. The deal is, the best coverage of Gray hair is using PERMANENT HAIR COLOR .Gray hair is the most difficult to cover successfully, so the trick to covering it is having the top-of-the-line color AND the proper Formula. We carry X-Factor for our Permanent Hair Color Line, it is the top hair color for gray coverage although was developed in Europe so it does run a full level darker than other lines. You must purchase 2 tubes of color for covering gray, if you decide to purchase from us, which I would encourage . . . please put the level of your hair color on your order ( in the box at checkout) with the code words “ MOTLEY COLOR “  and we will send you the 2 colors you need to cover your gray PROPERLY and then you will have your “formula”, which is half the battle.
Now to cover gray, you will always use 20 Volume Developer . . . so you don’t have to worry about ‘which’ developer to use with Permanent Color. So, if you have Level 6 color, just input “Level 6 + Gray Coverage” . . in the box at check out. Be sure to purchase 2 tubes, you only mix what you are going to use . .  so provided you don’t have hair the length of a chicks, you should get 2-3 applications out of the first – 2 - Tubes you purchase… and we would send you Level 7 colors because of the Euro difference in color. 
Now for the tricky part . . .  the  application techniques.
We have 3 - - I only use 1 but am thinking maybe I should tell you of all 3. This info is for the everyday person to learn how to deal with their own hair at home, because they can’t find a qualified person to do it for them. Anyway, back to the task at hand….APPLICATION.
First picture there is:
0007 mens
The BOUNCE TECHNIQUE : This photo is a not-so-hot rendering of this application which involves a sea sponge ( you know those rough – round- looking sponges that are a soft yellow color) Why those? They are not even and will impart a more real, more natural, look than a flat rectangle sponge will. So you mix the color, and dip the sponge into the color bowl BOUNCE it on and off the head….Begin sponging on the mixed color sporadically throughout the head shape.. . . Now whether you would use this method or not would depend on the ‘length’ of hair…short hair as this photo demonstrates: 
Crown n Glory521would work best with this technique
Continue bouncing the sponge color onto hair until desired dimension is achieved. Be careful you do not apply too much ( biggest mistake made with this technique) – go lightly . .  you can always apply more. Give yourself one attempt at experimentation.. . .  have a sheet of paper handy – to practice your technique on before you hit the hair. Once finished, let the color process a full hour…. what does it matter you are doing it at home, work on the computer, watch TV or work with it on your head . . . one of the biggest mistakes in covering gray? Left on way too short of time.
Second there is:
PINSTRIPING: Now this Photo gives you an idea of how its supposed to be applied, its up to YOU to not make it so stripe-y looking, this technique is for a little bit longer hair than BOUNCE. The main difference in the 3 applications has to do with how long the guys hair is. Everything is so accepted nowadays I had to come up with methods for ALL lengths of hair. Now you must use a sponge applicator, like this……………….68078B
or this is even better ( both we carry and are on their way to us as we speak)
00003 5656
we are out, but they should be arriving in 5-6 days ( they say)

Dip the end of the sponge applicator into the mixed up and ready to go Color bowl.. Begin by hand painting  stripes of 2 colors maybe even 3 if you really want to get into it…sparingly throughout the head shape.
Continue hand painting until desired coverage is achieved. . .  again the main problem always being people using TOO MUCH color. Its easy to add more, hard to erase - - easy to add more to.
Last but not least is my favorite . . .  the
Motley Technique
Using a tint brush…………………………………………( which is one of these ) 
68160Hwhich is what we use to apply hair color - - - you take an Application Comb……which is one of these 
mix up the hair color and take big scoops of
the hair color and paint in onto the teeth of the comb. Then quickly take the comb and comb through the ‘lengths’ of the hair strands. This, obviously is for longer hair . . . as there needs to be a little bit of “lengths” to comb ON to… So what happens is the color is combed onto the hair leaving a very very natural look. I feel nothing looks at natural and as “less- shoe—polish than the Motley Technique. This was a maneuver taught in V.S. Academy that I modified to work correctly. I have used it for 16 years and on thousands of clients – always successfully. If you order from us I attach a couple little tricks to make your first attempt even easier.. . . as I do with almost all the hair color we sell.
MOTLEY Technique
Now what I would imagine most would want to do is to try which ever technique of application suits you . .  ( yes, of course they all take a little practice – if you really want some practice leading up to the big color day. . . . spray shaving foam in a bowl and pretend its hair color. Practice with the foam and the sponge, or the comb . . .  and just get an idea how it will work . . . 
If all else fails, get a sister, mom, grandma, you would be surprized the women that would get a thrill helping you .
Hope that help – any questions. . .  join the Google Group . . .we have . .  for some reason the comments to this Blog have been deleted ( not by me . .  I have no idea how to get it back )
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