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Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Tap That OverLap


Bleach Retouches Kill Hair If Not Properly Applied
Skipped right over this subject when I had quite a few of you want the goods on it.... so here we go
I am famous in the malibu world for my:
Top 10 Habits that Destroy & Damage Your Hair
Its not a 'good' famous. . . . its a 'get under your skin' famous
Why? Its silly really
the List is:
frank,
controversial,
to the point,
and most people do not want to admit that 'it' or 'I' am right
about what it says
It's one of those lists that puts a rain cloud over the sunny party, a sad face replaces a happy one...and I think the one that rattles the most cages is the very first habit, so right out of the gate I have most of the human race,pissed off & angry at me.
Its quite funny the emails - notices- and other correspondence I receive randomly when it hits a chord with someone
The 10 habits are in no particular order, they are all equally as bad for your hair...when you have a full clientele coming to you because of your advice, knowledge, & talent- I take the advice I dole out very seriously. Very . I have worked very hard to conquer the hair thinning and hair loss problem I have watched grow to ridiculous levels in the past 10 years. If something is not done soon "balding women" is going to be a very common term not a rare one.
The first damaging Habit? "Smoking Weed"
That is why it gets under everyone's skin
Everyone knows someone that smokes weed, in today's society...Weed is this generations "beer" or "cocktail"...... or relaxation after a hard days work..... and lets all face it-- it is a helluva lot less harmful to the world than its sister > "Alcohol" as I'm sure you would all agree. So putting it front and center on my list, was only done to get people to "pay attention" to the list. That's it. It is not the worst of the 10 habits, it just gets the most attention, which is what I wanted. The more people that pay attention to the list the more we will begin chipping away at the problem of female hair thinning/loss - one of my missions in life. I had no idea it would instigate so much flak from men -- by the way, I've only had men approach me on it (the List is really for women! - men have years of research on their hair loss issues - they have a pill (that works), a Laser comb, surgeries, Lotions, all OK by the FDA -- Women have ZIPPO/ nada / nothing! So I was trying to get the ball rolling for the female gender - that's all, no favorites promise! The issue of hair loss for womenand men are com
pletely different ball games - with different causes & cures from each other...and need to be approached completely different.
On this list in spot number 8 ..is "OVERLAPPING" with lightener.
Which is finally getting around to what this Post is about. Trying to teach you what overlapping is and how to prevent it. This one word is responsible for a lot of breakage on today's girls & its so very simple to prevent... but not if the Stylist was never taught it, nor understood it.
I was hoping if I taught it here, maybe just maybe I could prevent some of the mistakes that leave Salons every day...."from the Internet!! of all places. Your Stylist might not take to kindly to you telling her how to do it....but its your hair, and that should be the Number 1 most important fact. If you see her doing this, I would think very hard about NOT returning to that Stylist....This is very preventable as you will see.
Very.
This usually happens during a retouch on foils.
The technique's referred to a a "weave" "highlight" or "foil" are popular in today's Salons...although the manner in which they are used has evolved and I am hoping that many of the Salons will start tuning in to some of the more current web sites and consider updating their techniques.


To decipher these photos with this program is going to be impossible I have discovered Blogger is not really made to host photo's in the caliber that I have asked it to.....it tries....it really does...And does a pretty good job....but for me to organize these photo for you, is impossible I have discovered.


Therefore,


What I'd like you to do is know that the problem comes when a lazy or uneducated stylist applies lightener to the entire piece of hair you see sectioned off..... instead of stopping where the line of demarcation is....


> That is where "overlapping" ZAPS your hair...


instead of applying the lightener to just the "new growth" they slap it on that entire piece (over-lapping it on TOP of the already lightened piece)
See the Diagram here . . . . .
The proper method of touch-up is to apply just to the "dotted lines" not the solid lines....
But that is where the common mistake is made . . ..
Instead of just applying to the dotted lines, they slap the bleach on the entire piece of hair.......overlapping it on TOP of already bleached hair.
This is what happens with "highlights" and highlight re-touches...


What each of you should do is wait 4- 6 weeks before doing your roots. There is simply no way any of you will have the expertise to apply bleach to 1/4 inch of hair without making the mistake of overlapping - - -THEREFORE, you must all wait till about 5-6 weeks when you have a solid 1/2" of dark roots and are not in danger of overlapping.

That is not hard - nor does it look bad, Madonna has dark roots all the time. This is a very expensive process, that you have taken on yourself...the only part of that process that you must be super careful of, is NOT overlapping the bleach.
It can be very easily done , IF........"IF" you wait 4-6 weeks - before re-applying the bleach which should be LEvitation Bleach and 20 Volume unless you are a level 5 and below.


I would Never apply bleach twice to roots.

if you have this issue I want to email me, so I can clarify it to you. Killerstrands@gmail.com


Please see the Diagram as well.....

Sunday, February 10, 2008

CRIB COLORIST - Become a Home Hair Colorist the Professional Way





Color:





Color:





Color:





Saturday, February 9, 2008

2008 NY Fashion Week Brings Back 'Crazy Color' Hair

Rock The Runway's Hottest Hairdos
2 Pages from Teen Vogue this month reveals new trend in hair
I couldn't be happier about








Get your Tint Brushes ready,
rev up the color wheel
Crazy colors have returned
There are many different brands, be sure to get the best you can afford
I continue to recommend Renbow's line of "Crazy Colors" semi permanent line.
This line "washes" out the cleanest, leaving the hair in better condition than when you began
All over the New York Catwalks were hair styles with Crazy colors placed in extraordinary locations. The colors were applied using bright colored "extensions" as well as directly on the hair.
There are advantages to both



Thursday, February 7, 2008

What Secret, Master Colorists Bring To The Set: When Call For Mega-Watt Shine Comes In

Wella's "Color Touch" Line of demi permanent hair color



This is hard for me, I will say this is the first 'reveal' from my arsenal of secret weapons. I have not quite stressed the importance & significance of my personal Arsenal of Secret Weapons of Hair, the group I have not had the backbone to crack open yet. Within my arsenal , as with all top Stylists, I have absolute ... undeniable ... solutions to these problems:




  • Gray coverage - 100% {hair color formula}

  • growth spurt for hair

  • off the chart SHINE

  • solution for damaged strands

  • Recipe for hair conditioner

  • Solution to thinning hair for women (just the beginning)


I have a couple dozen of these that I have held back on, waiting for just the right moment to "reveal" to Killerstranders. Its hard...you keep these secrets for an entire career - become known for the dynamic results ... and then ... to do a complete 180 and reveal . . all those treasures. Most of us at this level plan on writing a book, I did. I would still like to. I can see that the level of my tricks are a bit over everyone's head - but I think as soon as you begin to use them and get more comfortable with the vocabulary and techniques you will realize & appreciate them, I hope you listen and learn and realize what a wonderful little treasure most of you have stumbled upon. I still feel this site is one of those rare reasons you THANK THE LORD for the Internet! If you follow my guidance you will have truly learned the upper elite method of tackling hair - hair color and hair health issues - the professional way. I've flipped through some of the other hair books on the market, and either I have done a lot more research than the other colorists/stylists or they are just not doing the "big reveal" as I have always hoped to do. I'm still reeling from just the trauma of writing this reveal, on the flip side I can't wait for you all to try them.



When I wrote the 1st page of this series, I had decided not to tell Killerstranders about the true wonders of Color Touch, so I went off on the Color Charm Demi Line, which is a decent line and have heard nothing but positive results in regards to it. Today, it just seemed ridiculous to keep something like that a secret...what for? Who for? Why not? Its an inner battle I have with myself, I thought I would share, so you see that I am not just rambling off brands and pointless recommendations. That was not, nor is not...the point of this site.





This question has plagued me so, that some mornings I wake up and just think, I am going to list every single secret and get it over with. . . which is equally as idiotic.



All top Colorists/Stylists in the USA, Canada & UK are like that, every last one. We have spent a long time perfecting different formula's - different tricks so when we get that call to color hair for that hair color commercial, print ad, photo shoot or editorial - the hair we color will be the shiniest hair on the planet, or that will be your last call. That is how utterly important it is to have these type of tricks in the arsenal. Wella's Color Touch Line is the line I know dozens of top Colorists (besides me) use, as that one secret hair color weapon that can be surpassed by no other.



We use Color Touch "under" the final color, one way around > "did you use the 'actual' product" you are selling - problem.. We will use it 'over' the final color and call it a "rinse"(hee hee) There have been times I have used just "Color Touch" and the shoot was for a completely different product. That's just Hollywood, boys and girls. I'm not here to blow whistles, photo shoots are not a court of law, there is nothing more phoney than a photo shoot or the production of a commercial.



That being said, let me finish my schpeel on Semi & Demi-Permanent Color.



As I was trying to stress a true semi permanent color is one with NO developer or "activator" they are a DIRECT DYE or PREFORMED DYE...because they color the hair directly 'without' developer. That is how the category needs to stay. Never purchase a semi permanent color that has a second bottle of "whatever liquid" to mix into it...this is one of the single most abused categories by the big hair color companies. Misleading the public by stating their product is a "semi-permanent", because they know full well there is no laws they are technically breaking. But, come on...with the hundreds of dis-satisfied customers I met over the years, you know they had to hear about it over and over at corporate headquarters. Many modern semi's are really oxidation products, Oxidation hair coloring oxidizes. or combines with oxygen, as it processes.



Semi Permanent products color the hair without an oxidation process,they simply stain the cuticle and to some degree the cortex. Being a direct dye they are small enough to penetrate the cuticle, but are much larger than the indirect dyes of permanent hair coloring. It is self penetrating, relying on plain ole absorption to enter the hair. Where the hair is more porous, it becomes more stained. These products are usually alkaline, which increases absorption by softening and swelling the hair somewhat. Heat processing in combination with the use of foils is a terrific tool as well it helps penetration therefore lengthening the staying power.



Demi permanents are basically a hybrid. Part Semi - - - part permanent. A semi permanent with a developer, a no lift (no lighten) permanent hair color.



Advantages of DEMI-PERMANENT color over Semi-permanent hair color:




  • greater penetration

  • more deposit

  • incredible Shine

  • better coverage on gray

  • natural appearance

  • lasts longer

  • more intensity

  • better overall coverage


Some demi's, depending on porosity may lighten the natural pigment...if that does happen , in my opinion it has reached into the "permanent" line of color.



Use the Figures of Hair to notice the difference in the Cuticle, the Cortex, and the Medulla. . . . and where the color molecules go to on each one. Its easy to see the hybrid of the Demi permanent hair colors.



The primary defining characteristic of the hair coloring categories is duration....how long the color change lasts.



The Demi's are really designed for almost everyone that enters the Salon - deposit-only hair color is a wonderful thing. Demi's and especially Color Touch have a conditioning effect, they shine and bulk up the hair...so just tell me which one of you doesn't want shinier, fuller, more lustrous hair?



This is the secret, we have used for the past 10 years, I am making the entire line of Wella's Color touch available to you. That's how much I believe in it and want you to experience its wonders. If you need a toner, because you're a yellow blond, you want to add some low lights in mink beige, or you want the exact toner that Pink & Gwen use you now have access to them all. Color Touch even has a "SILVER" (another of my secret weapons).... leave this Silver on in foils for 30 minutes with heat, cover with Clairol's Glorious Grey's and this Silver can and will last for 10-14 days! That's HUGE.



Here's a link to one of the 4 online color charts of Color touch.http://www.wellausa.com/consumer/products_consumer/international_line_consumer/color_touch/swatch_charts/classic.jsp Which in no way comes close to doing Color Touch justice.



What I will do........ for $19.00 :

  • 1 tube of Color Touch
  • plus developer to go along with it
  • 1 pair of Gloves -
  • 1 Tail Comb to part hair with
  • 1 sample of "IN DEPTH" After-Color Treatment

There are 2 choices of developer,

  1. "Gentle" for "toning"(7 Volume) or more conservative methods....or
  2. "Intensive" (16 Volume) used for gray coverage, coverage, and most other instances.

1 Tube of color should be enough to do 2 heads of hair unless you have very long - thick hair. 1 Color Touch Kit will be $19.00 plus shipping.

I am working on way to better display the colors to you - please send me an email if you are interested Killerstrands@gmail.com

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?