OMBRE HairColor Technique (Paint Drips) - Brief Demo

This is a photo by photo display of how to accomplish the OMBRE technique, which I can now see is not going to be nearly as easy as I thought to describe & teach on the Web. 

Depending on the level you are and the level you want the color to be...will determine the volume of developer you use with either the bleach or tint. Here is another example where "bleach" comes to the rescue. Bleach goes in the foils to lighten the pieces, do NOT worry about it, its only a small portion of the hair. Remember your new mantra: " I Must Learn To Love Bleach "...." I must learn to love Bleach"...!! 

Part of the specialty of this technique is "blending" them and "placing" them so it looks natural and fun.

Here is the front large Paint Drip....parted away from rest of hair, then applied bleach & 40 volume ( the hair on this mannequin is pretty dark

Fold up the Foil and seal . . . the heat that is generated from being folded up - helps the bleach work faster/better/etc. on a real person the heat from the scalp helps

Look at the paint drips on the beautiful girl above.... That look is very easy to get and very fashion forward




See how I part away the hair. Being sure to keep the hair you do NOT WANT COLORED, away from the foil. You are using the foil to keep together the hair and the bleach, so it may work together. Separated from the rest of the hair, is what creates a lot of the cool looks in hair, I hope to show you that in stages this week.

I am showing this for one reason only, (stubborn hair only).... generally the rule is to NOT use heat with foils and bleach.....The rule is NO > Do not use heat on bleach.
I will be perfectly honest and admit there are just times when you will need to mildly ( NOTICE THE WORD MILDLY ! )warm-up the foil.....especially in the cool of the winter!

There is stubborn hair, there is hair that is so resistant not only heat won't work -- sandpaper won't either!
As in everything there are exceptions to the rule... and that is exactly how it is with hair....

REAL human heads with real human hair are not like that, unless there is artificial color on it you are trying to remove. Normally you will watch the hair turn very fast, no heat needed ...Just open the foils, smooth the bleach off with your finger and look at the color of the hair. Yes, this takes experience but, you might as well start now. Be sure to Re-Apply the Lightener on wear you scraped it off....

Experiment with one small piece of hair underneath all of your hair, to just see how it works. There will be no harm done on one little piece of hair that can be covered up, if need be.
Stay tuned!

Happy Holiday's from Us All ....Alex, Haley, Betty, Adem, Nikki & KC

.

TOP 10 HABITS THAT DESTROY HAIR

I had a plaque with these words on it in the 90's right next to the mirror in my Salon....it truly would shock people into not even talking sometime. 

Hard  words to say.....Harder even to realize.......

Proven these to myself over years and multitudes of clients... it really is common sense....

the sooner you stop ... the more hair you will keep 

its in your hands now, I'm not here to judge, just help, educate & inspire

head to our Store.....

join our group.... 

we try to be the best access to decent hair education on the web

We have a Free Shipping offer happening now.....go check it out 

Best Hair Conditioner on Planet Earth...

I just have to relay this wonderfully classic statement about THRIVEN (Killerstrands conditioner)

by a young woman on a web site I have not even heard of....
 

                   "Thriven is the best thing ever....you can sleep with it on, you can use it as a styling creme. I plan to be buried in a vat of it. It's not cheap, but a tub last 6 months and my hair is like silk "

I think I will lower the prices of my oils and of the conditioners as those products of mine are truly what help so many of you achieve healthier hair - - - faster!!  they make the bigger difference to most of you....they help everyone repair their hair and maybe if its less money more peop

Mirror-Mirror on the Wall....Please Remove Frizzy Hair from ALL .

 Lookie Lookie ... what the Lord Almighty has bestowed upon us. Now I am sure many of you think how in the world could someone in sunny California possibly need a product like this???

Well, static hair is everyone's problem and the fact they put "Winter RX Solution" as its Title, really has me puzzled. Just today we had one of our notorious SANTA ANA WIND Days that haunt us in  Sept.,Oct.,Nov., & Dec. - 1/4 of the year. The Static here is so horrendous it amazes me that every single person's hair is not sticking straight up towards the SUN ! Its blazing hot AND we have hurricane winds. It truly sucks.

This is the most wonderful little line.... I've always wondered what people saw in the Alterna Line...but  I have picked up some of their wonderful products...You must check up on them all. It is a tiny bit more expensive line, but as I have always found in more expensive lines??? You need to use a much smaller portion size to deliver 2 - 3 times the benefits. If you think about that...that one point actually makes the product less expensive...think about it.

 With the Alterna Spray is a weightless sheer mist that instantly eliminates static. It works its magic by Sealing and soothing the hair cuticle to smooth fly aways.

Anti-Static Spray soothe's stressed-out tresses and eliminates static with two essentials for smooth, hydrated hair during the year.

Features

• Instantly eliminates static
• Weightless finishing spray
• Seals hair cuticle
• Provides light hold
• Removes static cling

Directions

Shake well. Spray 6-8 inches from dry hair.

Below now is the suggestion I used to advise people on dealing w/ Static...which comes from 6-7 years  ago.

>> The eternal problem of flyaway hairs. Little stubbly hairs sticking up all over the head and if its the winter and hats need to be worn. . . well you can.... for-ged-a-bout-it!

 Most stylists I cavort with use the combo of "STATIC GUARD" bought at any Target, its used for clothing I'm sure there are other brands but this one works wonderfully,and a spray silicone.

• #1 Version:Take your brush or comb, spray once over with the Guard and smooth the hair with it.
• #2 Version: the most used combo is using a combination of Static Guard, Gleam  and one of the zillion silicone serums out there, although it must be one that does not have any denatured alcohol in it or you will be adding fuel to the fire.

The Alterna is the ultimate answer and you need hardly any ! ! 

There, you all should be flyaway FREE

 Killer Chemist

Hairoin : Grow Baby Grow - Die Baby Die

The Hair Concept that Teaches You How to have Healthier Hair + Hair that Stays ON Your Head

  

Hair magnetized 400x

Your hairs are considered "Terminal", in other words: they die & shed

Every hair on your head has a 2-5  year life span which means:

Each and every hair grows for 2-5 years ... dies off <> sheds <> then rests, then............. begins to grow all over again.

I feel if you understand that particular concept, you will then understand why some people have very long healthy hair, and others do not. Think about it.

Hair thinning is a result of the hair not re-growing after having been at rest for 3-12 weeks

Killer Chemist

ABC'S OF THE HAIR COLOR "LEVEL SYSTEM"

     

       HOW THE TERM "VIRGIN" FITS IN THE WORLD OF HAIRCOLOR

There is a term that for some reason brings the hairs on the back of mens heads up.....

That term is : VIRGIN

How we use that term : VIRGIN in the world of hair color and Hair generally is following:

The hair color you were born with > is termed "virgin" hair - within the walls of Hair color & the hair education world.

Becoming familiar with the "Natural Levels Color Chart" will help you in explaining to your stylist what you want and understanding your hair better if you are a home hair colorist

Become familiar with the chart

 will help now and in the future with determining

your hair color , while talking to me for a Consultation....and in determining the colors you will need to use to properly color your hair 

(or to fix your present color.)

Here is a simplified example of how a Colourist calculates

your formula to colour your hair: She is a VIRGIN Level 7 and would like to be lighter - lets say the goal is a Level 9

so....go up the chart - which is 2 levels.......

which peroxide lifts 2-3 Levels ?

30 Volume is the ANSWER !

The end formula will be to mix a tube of Level 10 + plus 30/40 volume peroxide (ash/neutral tone - your choice)

What level are you?

What level would you like to be?

how would you get there?

Now the biggest issue I find with most of my inquiries is...............???? The fact that very few of you have VIRGIN HAIR. And THAT issue presents a completely different problem. 

Color does not lift color. Remember that and PLEASE read my posts on that subject before attempting any sort of "guess" coloring project.

Top 10 Habits That Destroy Your Hair

These are very dynamic accusations to make (which I do realize), but from my clients whom many agreed to experiment with my guidance and whom all listened to the directions I gave them. We all ( at the time) decided we had nothing to lose by my theories about hair loss. Some tried cutting down on  whatever of the items, they felt (not I) were their target-problems. I gave them a list of 30 and the list was narrowed to the "Top 10" contributors toward unwanted hair loss ( of which there are various types). We did not go into that. 

Please

think about them

--consider them ..If you are experiencing hair loss and you would like to turn it around, I promise you I have seen miracles slow the process down by eliminating which ever of these 10 points just happens to be something you use on a daily or frequently used pattern.

MY best suggestion is to purchase THRIVE'N & Gleam

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/thriven 

 (which includes instructions and 'names' the SS: Secret Supplement, which also give directions to properly using for the health of new growth hair.)

Yes there are more radical methods, like transplants and Lazer Technology....but both of them are ridiculously over-priced. I know because I checked into them both - I thought of adding them to my services the year before I was diagnosed. But honestly after I thoroughly educated myself on all sides of hair thinning and loss..............

                      ..........I ( and YOU) should choose "Prevention" which is this list ABOVE

Happy Fall  to  all ............KC

Where For Art Thou...Gray EyeBROW!

Where For Art' Thou Gray Eyebrow ?
Brow Hair fades so light they fade into the skin ?

An eyebrow formula that you can do at home in a very short time and skip the costly, time consuming appointments. May sound weird to some of you, but personally I would be lost without this trick.


A couple weeks ago one of my long time clients had just come from an appointment she made with the who's who of eyebrow aficionado's here in the Land of the Lovelies.... $400.00 she charged her for a shaping and and a tint. Sometimes I feel like I missed a couple generations with the prices of how much things cost anymore.

Fast-Forward to Killerstrands....... we have solved this problem for you. . . .in a very convenient and laid out fashion. I cannot claim I was the FIRST originating this tricky little formula for tinting eyebrows . . . but I can claim tinting the eyebrows of thousands of women walking around has been one of the proudest additions to my services while doing hair.

For about 6 weeks we offered Tinting the 'brows' and "down-below" with the Facialist .... which I called "COLOR BOX" !! It got so much attention (16-17 years ago!) a magazine showed up and our door....we started doing leopard print, heart shaped and tint, Zebra....and on and on. I can't say it wasn't a lot of fun...but it started to steam roll and that just wasn't the business I wanted to be in.  

So we now offer the 2 different kits - the only thing you have to tell me when placing the order is: What Level is your hair. That is what I go by when choosing the color. So include that with your order - I personally will choose the colors for each individual order.

Many of you don't have gray hairs, but have super thin....or a hole in them - or there are a million and 1 reason for needing to tint eyebrows. What happens if you don't have brow-hair where the brows are...........you put the tint on the face and you know those little hairs on your face, the tint colors that so it gives the impression your brows are perfect. You purchase 2 tubes and it lasts forever!

Remember 'guys' this is for you two !






http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/eyebrow-tinting-kit




 









http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-color-and-eyebrow-grooming-kit-combo 

Parting The Red Sea: Sectioning The Hair

Parting -- Sectioning -- Tools



Here is a mandatory Post - for everyone that wants to color their hair. These are basics to accomplishing just about anything done to the hair. I'm sure most of you would refer this to "parting" the hair, but in the professional hair world it is called Sectioning. They both mean the same thing.

In most Cosmo Schools they do not teach this basic to the extent we were taught. I'm not sure why? Because when you get thrown in a Salon - -you sure better know how to look professional at the very beginning doing the very first thing you do to your client. I was taught to master the art of 'Sectioning' and you Crib Colorists should too. If you understand the art of Sectioning.........I'm telling you: Coloring your hair & Styling your hair will be soooooo much easier! . That is how important it is and I know it and I invite you all to listen, learn and practice this. In preparation to Color, to Cut, to trim your Fringe ( bangs), to Straighten, & to Blow Dry . . . the art of Preparation is about the most important step you will take in the entire process. Please don't discount it. I know so many like to crack open those bottles and pile on the color, while asking questions later. So many of you try that, only to come back to me with your tail between your legs and defeated. I honestly wish from the bottom of my heart that you could all avoid that step, which was the purpose of this site to begin with, so try to absorb this and at best . . . practice it a few times.


Hair Preparation includes Hair consultation which is what we tackle in the GROUP and I just wrote a very intricate post ON how to do a Consultation on yourself ( honestly) on the road to getting your Color Formulation correct..


Basic Tools for Hair Color. Within the Academy they give you an arms length list that you are required to purchase, as you cannot take the State Board Test without all of those tools. So many are outdated and still sit at the bottom of a Hair Case, so you will learn the ones you NEED & use constantly - the Bare Basics.

We are preparing to become good Crib Colorists, and to color our hair correctly  - - - so you could begin with the list of what I would suggest.

• Cutting Comb #11

 

• Tail Comb 


• Paddle Brush


• Clips - Strong quality


• Water bottle


• Clean Touch - skin color remover


• Color Block.........we have a kit including both of this and the one above


• Cape/ Old T-shirt


• Gloves - Latex 
• Tint Bowl
• Tint Brush
•  

All of these products can be purchased in our store







Cutting Comb: When I first got in this gig, I was shocked that people actually used combs. Seemed so archaic to me, then I learned they become your best friend. So cozy up and get a couple of these, the photo is of a very typical one, and I always have 20 - 25 of these ready to go, 2-3 will be sufficient for you. They are great for cutting hair - especially your fringe ( bangs) .


Tail Comb: This bugger is handy, for anything and everything (getting lettuce out of your teeth, even) Parting is its main mission and sectioning comes in second. Guess what many of the older Stylists use it for ?  . . . highlights... Remember: highlights are history. Many many uses for this, get the best one you can. Maybe get one $5. - $10.00 and 1-2 for $1.00. ?

















Paddle Brush: My favorite all around brush. At Sassoon we use an old England stand-by..Denman brushes. Another point of contention for me when I began this adventure. The paddle brush looks up-to-date, but you should see some of their others. They do look like they are out of the 19th century hair vaults, but one more time -- they rock. There isn't a Denman brush I wouldn't use, and they are super reasonably priced. The paddle brush you see here is under $15.00. The 9-row is the best blow-drying brush around, although that does come along with the funny technique we teach...once I introduce it to you I imagine you will be a sucker for it as well.     We will be posting a Demo for using the other Denman's we carry, so you do not need a round brush ............... upcoming!

Clips: they must be strong like mine, or you will spend more money on replacing them than the cheap ones are worth. Remember - - NO metal if you ever plan on using blonde....the lighteners (bleach, etc...) we use has a bad reaction to metal..... We have 2 prices of clips I promise you the higher ones will last you forever AND they really hold up hair.! The are completely amazing. A Must.

Clean Touch: This product is only necessary for Level 7 and darker....as this is for cleaning the haircolor off of the hairline.I have a Matrix one here for the photo... there are many brands and I have never found the professional version of any brand to be better than the other.
 So I have chosen "Clean--Touch"
Obviously blonde will not stain the skin, but if you use anything darker than a Level 8 in your hair - or plan to, I would highly suggest the big bottle which will last a lifetime ( works on clothes, the carpeting) .
Neat workspace = Neat work. Take the extra minutes to clean up as you go.








Color Block: A very handy little tool that I use in a few different ways. One of our Killerstranders is in love with the product she uses it while dyeing her lace wigs. Its a rich thick cream that keeps hair color from 'creeping'. Works well with super tricky hair color tricks, as well as coating for the hairline ... to keep the color off the skin. Yep, a double shot way of keeping that damn color OFF-THE SKIN. Block it and Clean Touch it. As a hi-brow Colorist, you never EVER want one drop of Color on a clients forehead...I just don't think it should be done. Try to incorporate my standards into your practice, on yourself.











































PARTING

Sectioning and Parting must be mastered. Otherwise you will spend hours of time with piles of hair in the wrong place and things will not come out near as easy or as organized as you might have hoped.

Every time you get ready to do something to your hair, you must part & section it first, every single last time. The first thing you should do when getting ready to do anything INCLUDING BLOWDRYING, is to reach for that comb and part & section the hair, period. this should be the end of your "where do I start"? questions.













For a quick trick to memorize:NOSE TO NECK . . . . . . . . . . . EAR TO EAR


Use your tail comb, & practice this method of sectioning at least 20 times. I'M SERIOUS. The thing is, its easy to do when the hair is wet, but 90% of hair color is begun on dry hair. So practice getting that part straight on dry hair - which is not easy -it is important to be able to master it and for it...& to be done in the right spot. Directly in the middle of your nose and all the way back to the top of your spine. (a good time to have those rear-view mirrors installed in your bathroom)ort unless you have achieved access to the ultimate tool and that is a hair color partner. This can be a fun event, I hear it all the time now. Remember we are the founding fathers of a brand new American hobby -- Hair Color. I say, why the Hell not?







Now check out the top of the head here, there should be a criss-cross exactly in the middle of the head. Don't disregard this process please...parting affects how the hair color is applied and if we want to begin a new hobby we might as well use the business model from the most successful and reputable Hair Academy in the world. They are fanatic parting practitioners, I used to get very fed up.











This parting will work for a basic hair cut, something else I want to go into, and any basic hair color application. You now have 4 quadrants, that need to be looked at as their own unique individual sections. Applying the color to each quadrant needs to be purposeful and quick. I believe if you look at just getting through 1 quadrant at a time, it will be a lot easier on you. I encourage you all to attempt the Tint Brush and bowl method of application, once you practice with it you will learn that in the end it is not only easier, the haircolor saturates the strands of hair much better. Its important to use lots of color product on the brush and to brush it into the hair on applying. I truly do not think that can be handled with a bottle the way it needs to be.







No one expects you to be "HELENA HAIR COLOR" right off the bat.





NO one, so neither should you.











Give yourself some practice I still think investing in a doll head and clamp is a worthy investment. I live alone and love it, so I never think of every other person out there who most likely lives with others...I guess you all could just sit your daughter, husband or dog down on the Sofa and ask that they let you practice on their hair. Trade them for something, most people love having their head played with, it relaxes them.







This is Part 1 of Prepping hair for a haircoloring OR cutting........the more you practice the better....the results..














Stay tuned for additional info on this subject . .

thank you......

Killer Chemist

Heat, Pray, BLOND !

Fun New Appliance to Assist All Crib Colorist “Blonds”’

Wow what a great surprise for all blonds out there that color your own hair. Using any of the high-lift Blonds we carry is the perfect recipe for using this little – well-priced product with your next base touch-up or even if you are considering using any of high-lift blonds we carry.
The reason??? -- it can be used with virtually ANY size hair dryer....on LOW....to warm up any areas you apply w/ High-Lift Hair Color - - - this little bit of heat…that is “ DIFFUSED “ applied for a couple minutes 3-4 times within the processing time can really help your hair reach a yummy blond.  Remember to apply the flexible diffuser on the end of your dryer ( not tightly but loosely) use the dryer on medium heat and HIGH WIND……and this little brilliant contraption.....DIFFUSES it.....so it is 'like' natural warmth.

Also, for those of you wanting waves and that "natural" look - which I will never get tired of pushing, it helps curls dry when in a rush and you can't let them dry on their own.  There are many uses for this little contraption, heating up THRIVEN, warming up the hair after a Gleam application and the one I use it the most for..........warming up high-lift Blond when an extra 1/2 to 1 level of lift is needed.  Finally, to warm the air around your strands if you live in a super cold climate.
This is an ultra light diffuser that prevents heat damage and gives you better overall diffusion. Perfect for salon, home, and travel!  Diffuser is made of soft, flexible lightweight foam. Its unique design gives you better overall diffusion. It can be carried in purse or pocket. So easy to travel with - takes up almost no space at all and weighs only ounces.

Gone are the days of heavy, bulky attachments. It won't fly off the end of the dryer and minimizes dryer overheating.
Also, if you want want waves and that "natural" look - which I will never get tired of pushing. Remember your hair is "made" to go one way, and the more you fight it

Features………beside what we spoke of above….

• Perfect for permed, naturally curly, or wavy hair.
• Keeps hair looking healthy... prevents heat damage and control frizz.
• Great for quick-drying roller sets.
• Good for salon, travel, or home use.
• Fits virtually every size blow dryers.

Directions

Slip over the blow dryer nozzle, and should extend 2 to 3 inches beyond the end of the dryer.
We offer you 3 different models, each one offers different colors, I promise the color doesn’t matter!
Killer Chemist

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/dryer-sock-diffuser

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/soft-mitt-diffuser

Only 1 Way to Color Thy Hair Correctly ??

The First and Most Important Factor, and Don’t Laugh . . .

Be truthful with yourself  (or to your hairstylist) & I said ‘don’t laugh’ ! Answer these questions with the  God's Honest Truth !

Use the Killerstrands Blog as your guide, and be completely honest with yourself. If you can’t do that then you will not have successful hair color….so in my eyes - - why even try? As a professional Stylist the absolute most important part of the appointment? Is the Consultation. You know how so very many of you end up here because your Stylist ruined your hair and you want to take control of it back, to YOURSELF? 8 out of ten of those mishaps are because those people did not do a proper consultation.
You know in our Forum of over 3000 people I have asked what most people would like to see me do? You know, to jazz up the BLOG-Store & Forum. The top 3 answers were

1. Videos – do Videos and/or come up w/ a U-Tube Killerstrands channel, I’m ordering all the bits and pieces for this….I don’t know about a channel…but am willing to try a few videos……
2. FACEBOOK business page. ( I thought the Forum was enough but apparently not) so its being built as we speak…about 1 week and we should be ready with this one.
3. TWITTER …….I don’t see this helping my MISSION to be perfectly honest. I find the most questions on all 3 sites is the same: “HOW TO FORMULATE your OWN COLOR FORMULA to get what you DESIRE…Right?????”

With that being the main issue I am not to sure how having me zipping through an 8- minute movie on certain topics will help ???? when I truly feel you need the most help with (the boring part) how to prepare the color to apply. Or in Colorist terms: Calculating the proper formula in which to apply to reach your DESIRED result.
Lets review a couple points that the V. SASSOON Academy reviewed over and over in order to make us all the best Colorists in the world. This is quite different than teaching a classroom of eager students….but many of you seem just as anxious to learn as well. This is the part that is truly the most useful….Don’t worry VIDEO’S are coming soon enough.
This is the very beginning of figuring out the color you are going to use, I know its boring and not as exciting as the hair and the foils, but I promise you once this “clicks” in your head then you will be able to be any color you DESIRE…..and still have HEALTHY -  - SHINY - - - HAIR
Here are the questions I want you to answer to yourself before you ever even purchase that tube of color from us (DON’T LIE):

• The #1 QUESTION: is there previous hair color on your strands. I cannot tell you the amount of people that will sit in my chair and lie right to my face. Well-trained Colorists can tell if Color of any kind has been on hair ever. If it has been applied within a year prior to this application the formula would have to be different, altered somewhat
• What is your desired look ?  ( cut out and paste a few photos of hair color that YOU like - - - see its ARTS & CRAFTS that’s not so bad !! )
• If you are using color, you need to upgrade the shampoo & products you use, it may sound dumb to some of you but I promise you it isn’t ! SLS-FREE Shampoos & spray detanglers are the most gentle products and will keep the color  new & fresh looking.
• If you have old haircolor on your strands, it must be removed.  Not with Bleach or Lighteners of any type, we only endorse VANISH. It reverses the manner in which the color went into the hair molecularly – therefore NO damage is done.
• Do you want a temporary change or a permanent one?Do you wish a subtle change or more dramatic??? Read The online
• High or Low Maintenance color? Some its advised that you Tone it  once a week every week……..some it just shampoos out gently…
• Do you Swim? Use any type of Hot Tubs??? Chlorine is terrible for almost all haircolor  -- please take that into consideration as well.
• Work Environment??? – Conservative or Liberal? ? ?  
• Sun Exposure….where you live??? are you an “outdoor” person or “indoor”??
• One of my tricks was to make a HairColor Portfolio…Giant Notebook that was created adding photo tear-outs from magazines that I adored….if you are on the path to becoming a great Crib Colorist, I would start one of these…they are fun to use if you change your hair colors with the “Seasons” as many people do. Include photos of your own haircolor for fun.
• Check the percentage of gray
• Hairs Texture?
• Hair’s Porosity? In my opinion is a VERY VERY- Important Question, as it changes the processing time!
• Do you take any medicines that your Dr. may have warned you about
• Are you an allergic-type person??? If so run a PATCH Test ( apply on forearm – underneath – covered w/ bandage for 24 hours)
• Has the hair EVER been treated with Metallic DYES or HENNA? ? ? If so, do NOT apply hair color or anything to your head until it is removed….Ask Adem (one of the managers in the store ask him his story with it…. Also - - that’s an IDEA for a POST.. you listening Adem? ? ? ?) !.

I do not believe in Coloring the hair when the hair is super dirty. That is a BIZARRE trick some goofball made up…….I mean “”chemistry-wise“ nor ‘’Beauty-wise’’ it makes no sense at all. The cuticle is open on the hair, why wouldn’t you want good things to enter the hair strand? ? ? ?
I believe in coloring : fresh – clean- dry - hair w/ 3-4-5 squirts of GLEAM on the hair (mostly on ends!) for at least…1 hour prior to applying the haircolor. NOW that’s the way to shiny healthy hair…..
KC
Killer  Chemist

3 Free Hair Color Tools for 1 Week w/ Purchase

1 Free Tint Bowl
 1 Free Tint Brush
                                   
& 1 Free Tail Comb

w/ purchase of at least 1  haircolor (any)- 1 week only

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/

 3 of the most important tools for beginning Crib Colorists

There is a reason I stress these 3

Once you begin to put down the bottle, the cap and whatever other silly tools you are using. with these you will have professional looking color. Many have “helping hands” & don’t have to apply their color…using these will help the person helping you. Doing it yourself? We have plenty of women that figured it out & discovered the better application results. FYI - - - I’m doing my own hair now, and I have had to get used to applying to myself as well. I promise, its not at all the same as applying to a client sitting in a chair that goes up & down!
Killer Chemist

6 Crucial Factors Affecting Your Hair Color Result

How To Evaluate those Factors at Home

This is the area I know many of you struggle with. I’ve stressed these factors individually but now I am going to review them all together. Now if you are trying to assess your hair in preparation for YOU to color it for the first time …this is the article for you.

6 Imperative Factors to Know Before, ANY Hair Color Procedure

1. Existing Hair Color
2. Virgin Base Level
3. Percentage of Gray
4. Ethnic Background
5. Porosity
6. Texture

The results of your haircoloring, I promise you, will only be as good as your analysis of these 6 points. Hair Colorists who do this day in and day out…should be held to that same rule. If your hair colorings continue to come out wrong. Always revert back to this page. Print it out. Keep it in your cupboard where you have stored your hair color tools. If you don’t have any, get them ! Don’t do hair color with home products, when your goal now is to have your hair look professional. Its not hard to do a good analysis, you just have to know what to look for.

I’m telling you, it would be so simple to print this page out….or simplify to how it makes sense to you (keeping the important parts). Each time you go to “change your hair color” you use the sheet. Answer all 6 questions.

1.) Existing Hair Color >? I have found in our Group that this is the most misunderstood step. You need to answer honestly to yourself whether you have put hair color on your hair is the last 12-18 months. If you have it alters what you can do profoundly. Don’t lie to yourself. Hundreds of people everyday sit in chairs and lie to hairstylists. . . they don’t think we can tell and we can. We want to see if you are going to be honest or not. So remember this. Once you have applied any type of hair color that uses developer  to your hair there are so many options that become impossible to do. So think about this the nest time you feel like running out to the drugstore and applying, quickly, some boxed haircolor , because those are the worlds hardest colors to get out. Don’t do it, if you ever want to have nice hair color.                                                                              If you do have hair color determine what level that color is.There are different plans to think about if your present hair color is

• lighter…………than your ‘desired’…you will pre-pigment or fill
• the same level as your ‘desired’…...this is easy – smile
• darker ……….than your ‘desired’…..you will remove color (Vanish)

2.) Virgin Hair Level – Determine Your Virgin Level by parting the top of the hair down the middle. Doing it to yourself? Use bathroom so you can look up close take the end of a tail comb (tail comb) take a copy of any 1 of the 2 dozen Level Charts on this Blog I have given you, with you. Pull the hair up near the part, gauge it from there. NEVER THE ENDS. If your not sure ask a partner, ask a family member, ask a friend.

     

3.) Determine the % of gray – Gray hair is basically hair with no pigment. Haircolor looks different on gray hair than on any other color. The reason? If gray has 0 pigment

• Level 10 blonde - 10% pigment
• Level 9 blonde - 20% pigment
• Level 8 blonde - 30% pigment
• Level 7 dark blond - 40% pigment 
• Level 6 Light brown – 50%pigment    
• and on down the line till you reach Level 1 – with 100% pigment

Gray is not on that chart at all. It has “0” pigment. With no pigment it has nothing the hair color can latch onto, so therefore when you color without using the tricks to covering gray….it will cover but in 1-2-3 weeks the gray will begin to show its ugly head!

When you have gray you must come up with an estimate of how much gray you have, this can be a little tricky at the beginning. So let me give you a couple tricks. 10% gray means one in every ten hairs is gray. Many times it is the first impression that makes me decide. Remember all of these factors go back to number 1 – do you have color on the hair already. If so, you are doing this estimating on the “base” (roots) ……….. {roots is such a God-awful word they came up ‘base’ –much more appealing…try to use it}. So there are many different situations you may find yourself in. Close your eyes……….open them, does your hair look more gray than natural? Than you are over 50%….and vice versa. If you are coloring your own hair  you will be able to play with this..as a professional I feel you should know exacts before you ever start hair on clients.

Below in the picture of a chart on the right hand side….it shows 25% gray – 50% Gray & 75% Gray…………..

With this color Series I am going to go through coloring all the way. Not leaving things out with hopes of a book. That will never happen, so now you will get the entire color Instruction and in order. You will be taught the Sassoon method of how to cover gray, and everything else.

4.) Ethnic background – I put this in here because I feel most publications (and my training left it out as a distinct category. It is deeply studied in the European part of the world and they have magazines and books that deal only with ethnic hair.

> Afro American hair tends to be very curly and darker and coarser, on average, than Caucasian.                            > Asian hair tens to be coarse , very resistant , very dark and straight.

So those….. and I have written a wonderful post about ethnicities & their hair but all hair on all people has most of the same properties. The properties from one ethnicity to another will most definitely be different so that subject does not really affect this post.                                        

5.) Porosity – Resistant hair is slower to accept haircolor. It’s funny out of all these steps……I have found both in the group –and- in all of the Consultations I have done  . . . everyone knows whether or not their hair “takes’’ color well or not. Isn’t that funny??  I think that is super unusual. Every single hairstylist out there must be saying to themselves as they takes the foils out or I have always scratched the color off with my fingernail to see if the color is taking fast or not – that every single one of you KNOWS the answer to that question !!! Well, THAT is the porosity of your hair. You were born with it.

Overporous hair processes quickly and may require more warmth in the formula and a weaker developer ( and possibly ‘filling’ or they used to call it pre-pigmenting).

Then there is normal porosity….means a slightly raised cuticle – just barely lifted. No adjustments need to be made and most of you have this porosity.

I feel porosity affects a lot more than most give it credit for… you will see in following posts.

6). Texture of Hair – Most people have medium texture so no special considerations are needed.

For extremely fine and “might'” have to pay attention to…. the “quote goes 9 out of ten people are medium texture” so most people don’t have to worry. I find that quote a little off with all the ethnicities here now and with all the cross marriages…lots of beautiful new textures are popping up.

What you will want to be careful of is the fine hair around the face some people have. If that is you ….there are a couple tricks …but I will give you the 2 easiest. Because to me there are 2 kinds of face frame hair….one is super find one is medium fine. The only difference is in timing – I was this picky – maybe you don’t want to be.

• Super fine….3-5 minutes before end of processing time (save a bowl of color – always) apply color. Rinse that part last.
• Medium fine … just apply color on whole head then apply last ( this way it has 20-25 minutes.!)

Killer Chemist