Knowing "How-To-Color Hair" is NOT NECESSARY in order to pass State Board Of Cosmetology Tests to receive License to practice Hair in California

California's Test is supposed to be the hardest in the country, we have 10 times the applicants of other states, therefore the test is more difficult.

Call Yourself a Professional Home Hair Colorist if you can come up with the answers to a couple more hypothetical formulation examples....lets practice some more.

Many of you seem to understand the first example.Here is another example of LIFTING in the LEVEL System:

Your own natural virgin color hair is a LEVEL 4

You would like to be a "preferred" LEVEL 9 ( I prefer to be a Level 9 is one way of putting it)

What do you come up with?

This is where the BOXED kits do not work ( although they don't tell  you that, they make you think it will.....) and many of you end up with trashed color.  Your hair just did not get light enough and if it did ...it was a hideous shade of orange-y blond, & it sounds like 9 out of 10 of you end up putting brown back on top of it.....For what ends up taking a couple years of growing out to recover from (got that one right didn't I !!?!)

OK. Lets go over it.

• Not all requests can be met EXACTLY as asked, which is not made clear to those of you that cannot afford a high dollar Colorist to tell you the honest truth.  Unfortunately many Stylists with not a lot of experience in color will be just as bad as if you ( with none of this guidance) were doing it...and I have met many clients who understand color better than many stylists I've met over the years. Knowing how to color hair is not necessary to pass the STATE BOARD of Cosmetology Test, which always blew me away. There is just something not right about a Board that oversees the entire world of Hair and doesn't require the new members to learn color. The whole Theory and evolution of hair color is young but its not THAT young. I could write a 100 page book on it just by using this blog.
• Anyway here is the explanation of that problem....

Preferred level of color...................level 9 Blond

Natural level of color (subtract).......Level 4 Brown

Difference..........................................= 5 Levels

 

Preferred level of Color..................Level 9 Blond

Difference ( add)............................... + 5 Levels

Level to Use................................Level 14 Blond

 

There is NO LEVEL 14.... the levels only go to 12.

 See why sometimes hair color leaves you at some strange orange/yellow stage? The Boxed Kits do not tell you this...or warn you of this. I have so many people contact me about this type of problem...it was the main inspiration for me to start this Blog.

This is a common problem that needs to be brought up, so you all will understand. As a busy Colorist, we use many solutions to a problem like this, and offer them all to the client to come to a safe, and sane solution.

5 levels is a lot of lift and normally you will only get that many levels of Lift from Bleach....even high lift blondes only lift 3 maybe 4 levels and for now that is the most powerful "TINT" available.

The solutions?

 come up with a couple of your own....

we will review mine tomorrow......

HAIL Hail-Hail the Gang's all HERE....BLOND WEEK is here

The Mannequins are here....lets get this party started.

Just a pre-warning ..I will be finishing off teaching you all the tricks to putting the ribbons in your hair THIS week ...

if not tomorrow ...

I'm trying to do it via VIDEO!! so with all these PHOTOS on this site and now VIDEO...

PLEASE IF YOU LIKE THE SITE>>> you are going to need more memory for your computer...

that's what photos / video take.

Tuesday.

So go get your supplies.

Lets go blond !

The Newest Designer Drug > The " FLAT IRON "

Bottle the Blow

Trash the ...'-tini's '

Hang-up the Hooka. . .

Today's Tweeners are on a rampage and it's a bit more than 'hair raising' to say the least.

If nothing is done and soon,the last thing they will have left

is not their hair . . .

There is a new drug out there,

that is invading the lives of our daughters, girlfriends, sisters, nieces and for me: clients.

I am starting to consider the Flat Iron a Drug

( clarification : FLAT IRON is the proper term for what many refer to as an electrical hair

"straightener" within the professional world of hair: Flat Iron is the Proper Term)

That is a very big Statement: I do realize.

With the tremendous surge in Flat Iron sales in the past couple years, as is with all new "wonder drugs", we have abusers,addicts and a whole new crop of wild and out-of-control problems.

HAIR LOSS & Irreparable hair damage being the most poignant.

ts gotten to such a degree that I am about to call a couple magazines as I cannot reach the people that need to be reached in the infancy of this blog and I feel it that important to our youth.

I call it FIA...or Flat Iron Addiction.

So lets see who will get this important story out there.

I get a minimum of 12 letters every single day from girls that "cannot figure out why all their hair is breaking off ".. . . The weird part is they do not even put it together. . . the flat ironing and the breakage. But I guess a good addict doesn't know that next pipe hit is bad for them either. Part of my fascination comes from the amount of time they spend doing this one thing. Finally one 17 year old client who's hair went from absolutely demolished and breaking off to silky and thick in the course of only 60 days with 10,000HEADS....I was able to ask and get a decent response,

"how much time were you spending flat ironing?"

"4-5 hours she figured - it IS summer !"

I am not exaggerating here...... I asked her what she does with her time now....

She got a Job.

Please people we need to wake up to this little whirlwind we are all missing.

I see this as an OCD type of a problem . . . but I am not a therapist and that is not my expertise, I am merely here to point out the issue, so we can all start to watch for it.

For my contribution.... I am encouraging all of you to go back to the good ole blow dryer and brush.... and no need to do it every day....a couple days a week will be just fine.
Please, write me if you have concerns at all in this arena...for anyone.

Please know I am not trying to be a nag. Remember my Tag Line,

"I care about your hair" and I do ...truly care.

Yesterday I had one of my old regular clients stop by, her hair was horrendous.Just horrendous. I take this hair thing so serious that it makes me ill.. for the remainder of the day when I see someone in clinic with hair like this. I know its only going to get worse unless she changes a few things and fast. The really sad part? She is 26. 10 years ago this was not happening and especially not at that age.

I had to put her on the most strictest of programs and she was upset...and now I know why I haven't seen her in a while. I am merely trying to help and prevent all of you from having to go through what I see is going to be a HUGE problem very very soon.

The mission of my 3 Blogs is to share and relay the information of one of the top Hair Experts in the country with the public in 2 main areas. My goal is to reach most of America and share with them the knowledge of how to color their hair . . .just the same as if they were "baking a cake". There has never been any guidance or release of knowledge or book guiding women of America on how to care for the color of their hair. Not everyone has access to $250. highlights and I propose to change that and make thorough, accurate hair color advice and education available to those who want to learn.

Hair Color Kits Destroy hair, there is no way they can put in one box kit the proper ingredients. Hair Color is a science and chemistry just like cooking is. It is no harder than cooking,...it just has never been taught or a book written and produced for the women and men of America. If one Hair color book was written with the basic rules and laws included there would be thousands of women able to color their hair at home - correctly. (There are plenty of women that will still want to have a Colorist do it for them and plenty of tricks only they can do... just like a master Chef.)

But the 'basics of hair coloring just like "cooking" should be made available to the general public of America.

My last goal with the blogs will be to attempt to solve, slow down or even stop all the Hair loss I see running rampant in this country. I've always seen it in men....but never this young and this pronounced. The amount of women popping up with it now...would blow every single person reading this away. I see it everyday and still can not and WILL NOT get "used to it"..especially when I know I can make a difference.

Killer Chemist

Back to the Good Ole Days of Blow Drying ! . Attention FIA (Flat Iron Abusers)

We are going to take a small DETOUR for a Post here and layout one of the most neglected yet important 10 Steps you've paid attention to in a long time.

Blow Drying.

I am starting to consider the Flat Iron a Drug. ( clarification...FLAT IRON is the proper term for what many refer to as "straighteners"...within the professional world of hair: Flat Iron is the Proper Term)

That's a big statement I know.

With the tremendous surge in Flat Iron Sales in the past couple years, as is with all new "wonder drugs" , we have abusers and addicts and a whole new crop of wild and out-of-control problems. HAIR LOSS being the most poignant. Its gotten to such a degree that I am about to call a couple magazines as I cannot reach the people that need to be reached in the infancy of this blog and I feel it that important to our youth.

So lets see who will get this important story out there. For my contribution.... I am encouraging all of you to go back to the good ole blow dryer and brush.... and no need to do it every day....a couple days a week will be just fine.

Please, write me if you have concerns at all in this arena...for anyone . . . Please know I am not trying to be a nag.

Promise.

I had an old client pop in yesterday, 26 years old and her hair..... it was horrendous. I am just very conerned about your hair and especially being as she IS ONLY 26....I had to put her on the most strictest of programs and she was upset...and now I know why I haven't seen her in a while. I am merely trying to help and prevent all of you from having to go through what I see is going to be a HUGE problem very very soon.

s always...I CARE ABOUT YOUR HAIR. period.

Top 10 ways to keep blow dried hair looking shiny and healthy

10.) The finish is as important as the drying time. Seal the hair by turning the dryer on ‘cool’. Never leave the hair warm – it won’t last 10 minutes that way.

9.) If you invest in a great cut, the time you spend with the blow dryer in hand will not only be less, it will be more rewarding and the end will result will make you like a pro. Try asking for a blow dry lesson to be included with the price of the cut.

8.) When using a finishing product to hold your style – spray it on the brush first. This makes sure the hair won’t be over loaded and lets the hair shine through.

7.) Do not use a conditioner after your shampoo, that step was manufactured by the shampoo companies. The proper routine? Shampoo and only if needed….a spray leave-in detangler. A daily conditioner just weighs hair down and produces product build-up. Keep product use light, no more than 2 at every given blow dry, 1 is even better.

6.) Hair needs to be 70% dry for blow dry to begin. Shake out excess water after shower, rough dry until 2/3 of water is out. Over using a hair dryer can rob the hair of moisture, leaving hair dry & brittle.

5.) “Heat” remains the single #1 enemy to the health of hair, most don’t realize this. Blow drying ONLY until the hair is dry, alternating between hot and cool temperatures as you go through each section remains important for the health of the hair.

4.) Choose your brushes carefully, the longer the hair the bigger the brush. Axe the heat retaining brushes (metal) they add to the frizz and dryness. Boar Bristle brushes are the best, there is a reasonably priced line of brushes that will make your life easy called Marilyn, check out our website for some wonderful brushes!
 

3.) If you’re not using a silicone serum to coat the hair you will contribute to the frizz factor, there are a million and one out there but you must read the label…if it has alcohol in the formula you are defeating the purpose. Silicone Serums range from light to heavy!

2.) The hair dryer itself makes a real difference especially with the new IONIC and Tourmaline models on the market. IONIC utilizes ceramic technology, which will leave your hair healthy, silky with natural shine and manageability. Plus super fast drying time, the higher price tag is because they really do, work. Save your $$, ask for a birthday gift, watch for sales. It will last a couple years and the time it will cut off of your blow dry time and the shine in the finish makes it all worth while .

1.) The most important tip for blow drying? Sectioning the hair. Seem silly? Take a couple extra minutes to section hair into at least 4 sections if not 6. This will help in avoiding bumps and ridges in the end finish. Begin with the back section first, get it out of the way so you don’t get tired & give up before its done, remember the ‘back’ of your hair is what more people see than any other.

Killer bonus trick:

They have what I call “rearview” mirrors for the bathroom, Bed Bath and Beyond refers to them as a wall mount swivel mirror, they run from $29. to $99. Mount one on your bathroom wall; it will afford you the freedom of blow drying the back of your hair while also being able to look at what you are doing! It helps in the final outcome and you will find the mirror has many other uses as well (magnification mirror for eyebrow plucking, make-up application for poor sight, added bonus) .

1st COLOR FORMULATION - explanation

you are a level 4 brown..... and want to be a level 7....blond.
The difference between the level you are at... and the level you want hypothetically be is 3 levels.....
if you use a level 7 color will you achieve the desired result?

NO NO NO! You must use a color that accounts for the difference between your natural level and the level you want to be...
A level 10 color is the correct choice....however using as level 10 which contains only pale yellow dyes, will not keep the orange in a level 7 from showing through. I would use a Level 10 Neutral/Ash/Matt.....in the line I use I have dozens of tones.....and that's why i like it.. I would mix equal parts of 10N with 10M with 10 A.... and that brassiness would be eliminated. If needed it can be toned with a semi perm ASH BROWN....which will also
kill that brassiness.

Please take a look at FIGURE 2.4....this chart should be printed out -- keep it next to where ever you are keeping your color. Its a very handy little chart...I had to memorize all of this from trial and error it was not nearly this organized....back in the day!!

Lucky You......

Lots of you are writing me and I am very pleased with how well some of you are absorbing the material......and asking me "proper" questions.

I guess this was a good idea.

Some are quoting the LEVELS like an old Pro - very refreshing to hear....know that it inspires me and moves me that you are interested enough to try to learn this - - - its not easy -- I take that back.....it IS EASY; its just very 'foreign' to most......and has never been done out in "public" before.

so Thank you...

I hope to keep going, get better and for sure > more organized.

KC