August 2, 2007

Developer, Developer, Oh Which Developer Shall We Use???

  • Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process. 

    FINE HAIR: takes color faster
    MEDIUM HAIR: takes color at an average amount of time
    COARSE HAIR: takes longer to penetrate so therefore color's slower 

    DENSITYAnother aspect that plays a role in hair coloring/developer, you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'proper coverage'. If your hair is dense that means it is difficult for that liquid (hair color & developer combined) to weave its way through the individual hairs. 

    Remember all our recent conversations about using a Tint Brush versus a Bottle?  { WELL THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON FOR THAT ! }. But dense hair needs a brush ALWAYS!. You would always want to use the lowest Volume of Developer possible [ that works for your procedure of course...] and there are "lighter or more liquidy developers which I would suggest if you do have super dense hair. For those with average to thin hair I still would advise to use the developer with the most conditioners, the most moisturizers ,etc.. as possible.

    Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....

    low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
    average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
    high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

    OK... that is now every little tiny bit of info that I was going to have to mention or bring order to explain to explain the world of professional Hair color. Hallelujah!
    Whoops it just hit me............
    one more day of this.....I need to go Over lighteners.....lighteners such as BLEACH and High Lift Blondes. I love a colourist...I look for the tools that create the most radical change in the hair....that take the hair from black to WHITE.....or from white to black...because to accomplish that well can only be done by handful of people. Its a terrific sense of accomplishment to be the tops in your field.

    So stay tuned...I may finish this off today or bounce back to Frizz-FREE FRIDAY....
    4 comments on "Developer, Developer, Oh Which Developer Shall We Use???"
    1. Hallo, Thank you for your info.

      Reading you I have tried to cover my white hair using a permanent dye and 10 volumes peroxide.My natural level is / was 5. The 10 volume peroxide works very well on me , the dye doesn't fade away very easily and I am very happy because I can use a peroxide lower than 20 volumes and the hair has less damages.Maybe I am just lucky because I have very fine hair, with a normal porosity.
      So, what could happen using a 6 volumes peroxide and permenet dye?It should deposit color on my hair ,I think, without any lift and I should have a super minimal damage .
      Can you please tell me your opinion about this procedure?

      Thank you :) and best regards from Italy


    2. Personally, I feel that using 20 Volume developer does not create any more damage than 10 Volume. the difference between developers is NOT Strength, one is not stronger than than the other. The difference is "time". 20 Volume works faster than 10 Volume. 40 Volume works faster than 30 Volume ... and on and on! It is a common misconception. If I was covering silver I look for the color & developer that covers it the best.

      The answer to that is 20 Volume.
      Because of your "fine" hair that is why you are having good results with 10 Volume. Does it last 6 weeks? Because that is how long it should last.

      the most important factor is your formula, which you did not mention
      Good luck.

    3. a note , to be more precise :)

      The color ratio suggested by the cosmetic brand I use (if you want I can tell you) is 1 : 1+1/2 oxygen.

      It is a permanent dye with ammonia .

      So , for example, for 60 ml of color cream 5 natural I use 90 ml of 10 volume developer (consider that I live in Usa I suppose I could say 1 oz of cream color needs 1,5 oz of developer)

      Tha brand ,anyway, suggests 20 vol peroxide , but, as said before, it works on me with 10 vol too.

      By your experience ,could it work with a lower volume too, like 5 or 7 volumes ? :)

      Thank you for your patience and kindness


    4. If it works on you , then great....more power to you. I'm not sure what you are asking me? By my experience that would work very rarely and would not last as long....
      But if you want to use lower volumes = go right ahead. u must have super fine hair which displays to readers how a topic such as texture affects the hair coloring rules !!
      By my experience, that would never be my choice, I understand your ratios and everything your saying.


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