Coming Into The Home Stretch of Home Hair Color

Into the home stretch on the Home hair coloring series…
..just a couple small categories to brush over.
What I’ve done is take tons of info and try my hardest to condense so once into specific cases, for ex: if you are a Level 4 and you want to be a level 7 what is the procedure, I will be able to refer to many referenced points in hopes of clarifying . I want everyone out there to have the tools & knowledge to "formulate your own hair color" as easy as you would bake a cake.
Know what?...that is basically what it is!


Lately there are many rifts going around the hair color industry aimed at the consumer about hair color “ammonia” content. There is one line of color proclaiming they are the new wonder color because they do not use ammonia in their line of hair color. Yes, of course...there are people allergic to ammonia, but there are people allergic to the sun…does that mean we should get rid of it? Try not to prescribed to blanket statements like that, they are a marketing tool to sell- period.
The line of color I am referring to is made by the “CHI” company…sound familiar? Yep the - Flat Iron -dash- BioSilk -dash- everything –under-the-sun company from Texas. What consumer knows what ammonia does or does not do in hair color or hair, most consumers think of ammonia as something in window cleaner. Ammonia opens the cuticle on a hair strand which enables the color to go INTO the strand. That is what one needs in trying to change hair color, why wouldn’t you want it? If you don’t want certain things that chemicals do then one should just eliminate the entire process -- period. Don’t spend time trying to wiggle around them and end up doing the complete wrong thing to your hair. That’s what happens all the time, I run into it constantly.

CHI should not be making Hair Color or Flat Irons….I firmly believe in sticking to what you are good at. After BIO Silk they tried to go into shampoo’s conditioners, and failed at them…they sure do not learn. 3 of the best hair color manufacturers in the world are WELLA , FRAMESI, & RENBOW. What else do these companies make? NOTHING. Hair Color and everything around & for hair color. They come up with new color and new technologies for existing hair colors as a good company should – all facets of business should operate that way.



CHEMISTRY AND EFFECTS OF BLEACHING THE HAIR

Oxidation in the decolorizing process means the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline product such as bleach. Once activated, the decolorizing mixture changes melanosome structure and lightens the color of the hair. It does this by breaking the melanin into tiny fragments which are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree as before. The melanin does not immediately lose its color when oxidized. The hair goes through relatively predictable color changes as the pigment disperses and lightens the hair to a new level. The following table lists each level of hair color with its corresponding undertone, as well as shades that are achievable at each level.

Chemistry and Effect of Bleaching the Hair

Undertone
Level
Achievable Shades

Pale Yellow
10
platinum blonde silver ash blonde ultra pale pastel blonde

Yellow
9
strawberry blonde beige blonde tan blonde taupe blonde

Yellow/Orange
8
honey blonde light copper blonde dark strawberry blonde dark beige blonde

Orange/YellowOrange
7/6
copper redfire red dark blonde

Red/OrangeRed
5 /4
mahogany burgundy

There are no established times for decolorizing the hair to any given level. Processing time always varies, depending on the strength of the decolorizing mixture, use of heat, as well as texture, condition, porosity, type and density of natural pigmentation. The best way to determine processing time is to perform a strand test and to follow manufacturer's directions.

TYPES OF DECOLORIZERS

There are three general classifications of decolorizers used in the salon: oil, creme, and powder. Each performs a specific function, and has unique characteristics.

OIL DECOLORIZERS

These are frequently used for on-scalp applications when a mild lightening action is desired. Oil decolorizers are part of a 3-component system including powder activator(s) and hydrogen peroxide developer. Oil decolorizers have a pH of approximately 10.

CREME DECOLORIZERS Creme decolorizers also include developers and may also include powder activator(s). They are formulated to stay moist during processing in a no-drip consistency. They are popular for their versatile application techniques and are used in both on and off-scalp methods.

POWDER DECOLORIZERS Powder decolorizers are often selected when lighter blonde results are desired on darker natural hair colors. Most powder decolorizers are for off-scalp techniques, although some do provide the flexibility for on-scalp applications. The pH of powder decolorizers is approximately 10.5.

There are two basic classifications:
1. On-scalp: Used on-scalp for double processing and off-scalp in highlighting and creative color techniques.
2. Off-scalp: This type of bleach is usually stronger and faster-acting than on-scalp bleaches due to the higher pH and stronger peroxide activity.

The Hairy Little Things

There are some little things that in preparation I may have skipped over that I feel must, at least, be mentioned.

I know, as I am sure you do ( by now) that writing is not my thing.
I've been reading a book, but with the 3 blogs to stay up on I barely have time to actually "learn", either that or I am too damn old!

I have just found a website that does a wonderful job of organizing many of the basics I have skimmed over in this series and feel you could benefit greatly from . In my attempt to be as brief as possible, I fear I have left out small nuggets of pertinent information. Now The deal is {as is with anyone that attempts to teach hair color} they do not understand hair color "Formulation" so there needs to be a Red Flag when getting to the part of actually coloring your hair.
Color Formulation is the key to beautiful hair color.

This site recommends using "Kits" which is the absolute 100% wrong thing to use.
Hair Color Kits should be Banned - Burned and Bombed, they are job security for hair stylists and in no way can work properly except on a tiny % of the popluation.

It makes me wonder who is actually backing someone that makes such an idiotic statement. If they truly knew their stuff they would not tell anyone to use boxed hair color kits, chemically / theoretically and logically they make absolutely no sense. So as long as you can remember that when reading the summaries, you will be OK.
The reason I feel it worth it to recommend? They have listed and named off almost all the...little... preliminary preparations I can think of. So read everything leading up to "coloring the hair". If you are one of the daily readers of this Blog then you are dedicated to learning about the professional way to color your hair. Coloring your hair like the top Colorists in the country, something myself and a few of my associates said we would write about in another 20 years . . . not now. So absorb it and ask any questions you want /need to.

here is that website: http://www.soyouwanna.com/site/syws/dyehair/dyehairfull.html

Bleach For The Stars

Both - were bleached to a pale yellow stage

> a Soft Blue and a Vivid Blue semi permanent color - put on top - for 30 minutes

Life Is A Bleach ! Enjoying Blonds and Experiencing Lighteners

This is how you play with TONERS, my passion. The 3 gentlemen bleached to pale yellow... toned by "muting" down vivid CRAZY COLORS. Put a dollop of either mousse or hair conditioner in a bowl....pour in a little of a bright color at a time... any color PLUS the WHITE of mousse or conditioners makes for Easter Egg pastels..

All dark haired women lighten to a pale yellow level and toned.

Beige Toner

Platinum Toner

I added quite a bit to yesterdays post... be sure to review it. At this point I feel its necessary to let you see what bleach and what lighteners can do.There is a tremendous amount of animosity to the word "bleach" out there in the non-professional hair world.When I try to remember back before I knew all of this, I am sure I had the same feelings .

"Bleach" makes you think of that hideous smelling liquid you throw in with clothing + the washing machine... or the "bleach" in many of today's Cleaners...which is strong and chokes you if your sensitive in the least.

Try to dump that tendency to relate hair bleach to clothing bleach....they are so totally different...... do you know that when I hear I will be doing a bleaching for the day ( they just don't happen as often as I wish - and never have) . . . that one piece of news will turn my whole day into a joyful...skip to my Lou day . . I am on top of the world...because I know that I will be soon in my element....Turning hair from one color to the opposite is very satisfying...to ALL COLORISTS...because it is a difficult procedure and to master it and nail it every time is fulfilling and fun.

So when I hear the hesitation in the publics' voice about hair bleaching and lightening.....just know that when it is done correctly you too can look like Gwen Stefani for years & years AND YEARS . . .once you master the art of the HOME HAIR COLORIST SERIES by the killer chemist.

Learn to LOVE LIGHTENING

LOVE THE REACH FOR BLEACH

Reachin for Bleachin'

How light is "white"
when bleaching the hair the only answer is "WHITE"

Lighteners / Decolorizing

Lighteners are the chemical compounds that lighten hair by decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Just like color in the tubes. As soon as the lightener formula (powder or liquid) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide, it begins to release oxygen. This process is known as oxidation, occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Hair lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color , and are called BLEACH.

The lightest color one can achieve using hair color is with the type of color called HIGH LIFT BLONDING. Every line has their own version of HIGH LIFT blonde tones that ‘claim' to lift 4-5 Levels by using this tube of color plus a double dose of 40 Volume Developer.

...So there are 2 ways of going very blonde.....

#1) High lift Blond ( which you will NOT find in a HAIR COLOR KIT) these must be purchased as a tube of color and the developer SEPARATELY.

or

#2) Bleach or Lightener : In Powder, Creme, Liquid or Oil form.

As a seasoned colorist I have learned that very few of them actually do lift that much color, especially when you are dealing with the entire head or large sections of hair.. When doing something small like highlights most likely you can get the 4 -5 levels of lift (lightening) as you are using foils ( which add HEAT > Heat helps color work faster - and more intensely - altho it is tougher on the condition of the hair) …it all depends on the texture and porosity as well ...just like in all lightening procedures.

THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS

The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens as you can see in FIGURE 16-19. The amount of change depends on :

· how much pigment the hair has
· the strength of the lightening product
· the length of time it was processed

During the process of decolorizing ( Bleaching), natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages FIGURE 16-20. The most common problem? would be when you see yellow hair..which would mean what? Check the stages....

As the hair is lightened....it works its way up the chart... if it stops at "gold"level 7 or even "yellow/gold"level 8...

it means the bleach has not been left on long enough....

Most people do not understand that.

Be very careful . . I am not promoting everyone going out and leaving bleach on for hours and hours...or putting it on 2-3 times - like I do.

It takes constant monitoring...it needs to be washed off the minute it hits level 9 or 10 if you can.

But it can move from one level to another WITHIN 60 seconds !!

Are you READY for that?

TO MOVE THAT QUICKLY?

If not ....................DO NOT TRY IT.

Not all hair will go through all 10 degrees of decolorization. Each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result.

The hair is never safely lifted past the ‘pale yellow stage’ to ‘white’ with lightener. Going that light with bleach even oil bleach causes excessive damage to the hair strands. One must be a seasoned hair colorist when going into the light blond range....we know how far we can go and be safe...and its nothing you can really 'teach'...... its simply experience!

10,000HEADS was the number I was at about 2 years ago !

I can tell by clearing the color off of a strand of hair EXACTLY what stage its at, so that prevents me from leaving the color on too long.Now the problem with most bleaching or lightenings you see done at home? They only bleach the hair once.

Big shot Colorist's trick?

> use OIL BLEACH - Redkens' Levitation is the best....Wella's Wellite will do...

> apply it twice . . . . sometimes 3 times - yep . . .in the same day -- the trick is...in knowing when to stop.

> OIL Bleach continues to work for 3 hours. Each hour the speed at which it works slows down. Therefore, the first hour the bleach is jamming & working quickly, then depending on costs - timing - etc...is how we determine if we are going to wash it out and reapply a new fresh batch or leave it in and let the speed diminish.

Sometimes that will be the best answer.

MY usual protocol : I apply Levitation Oil bleach and 30 volume > 1 inch FROM ROOTS and thru ends.... (apply to roots as very last step).. for 1 hour.

RINSE

Reapply - new batch of oil bleach on ends and in the last 1/2 hour apply to roots.

Being very careful to use very small sections to apply the product.

Many many moons ago (16 years ago) when I did my very first RADical hair color ( I still have the photos).I took an ASIAN gal (PITCH BLACK hair) gave her a Halo around her face of 1 inch -- surrounding her hairline of WHITE hair.... my mentor wanted me to learn how to get to "white" on the most difficult of hair. Asian hair is the toughest to work on because of its 'texture' (its coarse) and its porosity ( it has none)...But, when you have completed either colour or a dynamic cut on it, it also looks better than any other hair.

So its worth the effort -- if you think that way!

It took from 7:00 AM in the morning to 7:00 at night. But it was a pure snow white HALO with JET black Base that I actually made a BLUE-BLACK so the most extreme contrast possible.

That was the day I knew I wanted to master the art of HAIR COLOUR.... and I never looked back.

It was a very sweet ride and I can honestly and proudly say. . . . I can do do ANYTHING in the art of hair color...anything and everything.

Even ended up making up some procedures like "tattooing" hair....

I would bleach white the hair and then paint a Tattoo on the back of the head at the base

Back in the day I was not so into computers... so i didn't take photos of all my crazy work when i should have I knew I could always re-do it...never thinking this would happen...of course...

as a matter of fact computers are the opposite of hair color....so I understand why many of the TOP colorists are not ONLINE, I would have never done this . . .

had I not gotten sick.

here is one guy I had some snap shots of

- lousy photos -

-but you get the idea . . . . He's hispanic so black hair again...

see what color a bleach should be?

WHITE!

He wanted flames to match the flames he had a car painter > paint on his jacket....

for PROM at MALIBU HIGH - -

- - of course!

It kicked ass