..just a couple small categories to brush over.
What I’ve done is take tons of info and try my hardest to condense so once into specific cases, for ex: if you are a Level 4 and you want to be a level 7 what is the procedure, I will be able to refer to many referenced points in hopes of clarifying . I want everyone out there to have the tools & knowledge to "formulate your own hair color" as easy as you would bake a cake.
Know what?...that is basically what it is!
Lately there are many rifts going around the hair color industry aimed at the consumer about hair color “ammonia” content. There is one line of color proclaiming they are the new wonder color because they do not use ammonia in their line of hair color. Yes, of course...there are people allergic to ammonia, but there are people allergic to the sun…does that mean we should get rid of it? Try not to prescribed to blanket statements like that, they are a marketing tool to sell- period.
The line of color I am referring to is made by the “CHI” company…sound familiar? Yep the - Flat Iron -dash- BioSilk -dash- everything –under-the-sun company from Texas. What consumer knows what ammonia does or does not do in hair color or hair, most consumers think of ammonia as something in window cleaner. Ammonia opens the cuticle on a hair strand which enables the color to go INTO the strand. That is what one needs in trying to change hair color, why wouldn’t you want it? If you don’t want certain things that chemicals do then one should just eliminate the entire process -- period. Don’t spend time trying to wiggle around them and end up doing the complete wrong thing to your hair. That’s what happens all the time, I run into it constantly.
CHI should not be making Hair Color or Flat Irons….I firmly believe in sticking to what you are good at. After BIO Silk they tried to go into shampoo’s conditioners, and failed at them…they sure do not learn. 3 of the best hair color manufacturers in the world are WELLA , FRAMESI, & RENBOW. What else do these companies make? NOTHING. Hair Color and everything around & for hair color. They come up with new color and new technologies for existing hair colors as a good company should – all facets of business should operate that way.
CHEMISTRY AND EFFECTS OF BLEACHING THE HAIR
Oxidation in the decolorizing process means the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline product such as bleach. Once activated, the decolorizing mixture changes melanosome structure and lightens the color of the hair. It does this by breaking the melanin into tiny fragments which are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree as before. The melanin does not immediately lose its color when oxidized. The hair goes through relatively predictable color changes as the pigment disperses and lightens the hair to a new level. The following table lists each level of hair color with its corresponding undertone, as well as shades that are achievable at each level.
Chemistry and Effect of Bleaching the Hair
platinum blonde silver ash blonde ultra pale pastel blonde
strawberry blonde beige blonde tan blonde taupe blonde
honey blonde light copper blonde dark strawberry blonde dark beige blonde
copper redfire red dark blonde
There are no established times for decolorizing the hair to any given level. Processing time always varies, depending on the strength of the decolorizing mixture, use of heat, as well as texture, condition, porosity, type and density of natural pigmentation. The best way to determine processing time is to perform a strand test and to follow manufacturer's directions.
TYPES OF DECOLORIZERS
There are three general classifications of decolorizers used in the salon: oil, creme, and powder. Each performs a specific function, and has unique characteristics.
OIL DECOLORIZERSThese are frequently used for on-scalp applications when a mild lightening action is desired. Oil decolorizers are part of a 3-component system including powder activator(s) and hydrogen peroxide developer. Oil decolorizers have a pH of approximately 10.
CREME DECOLORIZERS Creme decolorizers also include developers and may also include powder activator(s). They are formulated to stay moist during processing in a no-drip consistency. They are popular for their versatile application techniques and are used in both on and off-scalp methods.
POWDER DECOLORIZERS Powder decolorizers are often selected when lighter blonde results are desired on darker natural hair colors. Most powder decolorizers are for off-scalp techniques, although some do provide the flexibility for on-scalp applications. The pH of powder decolorizers is approximately 10.5.
There are two basic classifications:
1. On-scalp: Used on-scalp for double processing and off-scalp in highlighting and creative color techniques.
2. Off-scalp: This type of bleach is usually stronger and faster-acting than on-scalp bleaches due to the higher pH and stronger peroxide activity.