October 19, 2016

What happens When Hair Is Bleached ? ?

CHEMISTRY AND THE EFFECTS OF BLEACHING THE HAIR
Lets review what happens when bleaching the hair.

Everyone talks about it, but no one really understands what happens both chemically and aesthetically 
Bleach must go through the OXIDATION process in order for the hair strands on top of the head to have the color be removed from them.
By REMOVING the hair color that is in the hair strands it removes the "virgin color" and leaves a color that has become what we all know as the word "BLONDE".
That is why many times, I try to say that the color Blonde...is really not a color that we deposit onto the strands of hair..........we do NOT put BLONDE......."IN"......... in the strands, 
what happens chemically and aesthetically is :
Blonde is what is remaining............
once we remove the virgin hair color you were born with.

Oxidation in the de-colorizing process means the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an alkaline product such as bleach. 

Once activated, the de-colorizing mixture changes melanosome structure and lightens the color of the hair. It does this by breaking the melanin into tiny fragments which are no longer able to absorb light to the same degree as before. The melanin does not immediately lose its color when oxidized. The hair goes through relatively predictable color changes as the pigment disperses and lightens the hair to a new level.
( these stages are Brown-----brown/Red-----Red-----Red/Orange------orange----orange-------yellow-----Gold----Yellow------Brass------Pale Yellow)
  The following table lists each level of hair color with its corresponding undertone, as well as shades that are achievable at each level.

Chemistry and Effect of Bleaching the Hair
 
Undertone

Level  Achievable Shades

Pale Yellow 
10 
platinum blonde silver ash blonde ultra pale pastel blonde

Yellow
 9
strawberry blonde beige blonde tan blonde taupe blonde

Yellow/Orange
8 
honey blonde light copper blonde dark strawberry blonde dark beige blonde

Orange/YellowOrange
7/6
copper redfire red dark blonde

Red/OrangeRed

5 /4
mahogany burgundy

There are no established times for de-colorizing the hair to any given level. 
 Processing time always varies, depending on:
  • strength of the decolorizing mixture, 
  • use of heat
  • texture
  • condition
  • porosity
  • type and 
  • density of natural pigmentation. 
The best way to determine processing time is to perform a strand test and to follow manufacturer's directions.
TYPES OF DE-COLORIZER


There are three general classifications of de-colorizers used in the salon: oil, creme, and powder. Each performs a specific function, and has unique characteristics.


OIL DE-COLORIZER
These are frequently used for on-scalp applications when a mild lightening action is desired. Oil de-colorizers are part of a 3-component system including powder activator(s) and hydrogen peroxide developer. Oil de-colorizers have a pH of approximately 10.

CREME DE-COLORIZER

De-colorizers also include developers and may also include powder activator(s). They are formulated to stay moist during processing in a no-drip consistency. They are popular for their versatile application techniques and are used in both on and off-scalp methods.

POWDER DE-COLORIZER

 Powder de-colorizer are often selected when lighter blonde results are desired on darker natural hair colors. Most powder de-colorizer are for off-scalp techniques, although some do provide the flexibility for on-scalp applications. The pH of powder de-colorizer is approximately 10.5.

There are two basic classifications:
1. On-scalp: Used on-scalp for double processing and off-scalp in highlighting and creative color techniques.
2. Off-scalp: This type of bleach is usually stronger and faster-acting than on-scalp bleaches due to the higher pH and stronger peroxide activity. 


Off-scalp is considered highlights, Balayage, etc.. type, techniques.

Please check-out our Violet/Blue based Oil-Bleach Kit in the store..... it is a one-of a kind. There is NO Violet/blue tinted Oil Bleach in the world, ONLY at Killerstrands and I developed this to fight the brass I hear so many of you complain about and I am prideful that it is my single most unique and effective product out of the 10 products I have developed.

Soon we will have a 'Salon Version' of the Oil Bleach Kit it should be ready for photos and on the website in about 1-2 weeks so pay attention !

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