October 7, 2016

HOW Is YOUR Hair Color Formula & A Review of Gray Hair Coverage?

We've had a barrage of Questions about Hair Color Formula's this week and they are Questions that have been reviewed in this Blog in the past ...... but am happy to review some of the Key points to getting YOUR hair color formula correct.

Lets go over a few points that I have received the most questions about. Many of you are new to Killerstrands and have just discovered our little corner of hair color education and online store supplies.

Start there and then read forward until you get to here. I can promise you that everyone that has done that has been happy as Hell !
One of my very 1st recommendations for those who would like to truly understand hair color and want to take control over your own hairs' hair color path and honestly learn how to color hair correctly - & how to achieve HEALTHY HAIR while coloring ( which IS 100% POSSIBLE ! ! ). . . . is to take this blog and begin 10 years ago (it doesn't take nearly as long as it sounds) - - - click on this link and you will begin at the beginning of the Blog. Take a weekend - take a month - take a week -- or take a day and read the entire BLOG to receive a quick/fun/easy to understand education on how to properly care for their hair and come up with their own hair color formula -- PROPERLY ! 

That's my number 1 recommendation to all of you NEW to Killerstrands Hair Clinic, I was the first person to bring professional hair color to the public, which just recently I found out it is ILLEGAL to prevent 1 company from selling another hair product online once it is put into the stream of 'products for sale.' AS that is called Price fixing I have learned. Of course a company has the right to not to do business with us, but the INTERNET is here and it is not going anywhere....so why not do business with someone who will represent you well.

Now the first solution to many of the emails I received lately if you want a "quick-fix"  ( which I don't really believe in - there are simply too many things to understand to have a quick fix answer in hair color formulating but I am going to try to help some of you out with this one solution.

Many of you are making the switch from BOXED Hair Color ( or Crap-in-a-Box as I call it) to professional hair color, because through one way or another you have heard if you use professional hair color your results will be more dimensional and basically more beautiful and "natural looking" . When boxed hair color is used over a period of time, it begins to look like shoe polish. 

I understand how people fall into the trap.

Their first Grays appear and they SHOCK-THE-HELL out of the person because it happens so young. . . .or it happens to dark haired people. . . . so the contrast to you is shocking and all you want to do is get rid of it. 
Cover it up. 
We are a QUICK-FIX Society now-a-days. 
So there are a million and 1 little sticks and sprays and bars and powders to temporarily cover the gray......which I don't really sell because if you are going to do anything purchase your formula from us, mix up a small batch of it and apply it to the areas that show only.....THAT WAY, when you go to do your Re-Touch, you don't have some Cock-A-May-Me product on the hair that affects the next time you do your proper monthly Re-Touch . If you need a little help, send the answers to the Killer 18 questions and I will give you your formula. FREE! But, you must answer the questions in  8 words or less  ( that is all I need I've been doing this for 10 years and have it down now)

Many of you don't even want to admit that you go to a hair stylist to get your gray covered as many times it will happen in high school or college and you're embarrassed.......but listen to me..............WHO CARES ! ? ! ? 
NO one cares, getting your hair colored is cool now.
So, you run to Target and purchase a box of Crap-In-A-Box Hair Color and if you have very dark Brown to Black hair, (which is the #1 hair color in the world) the contrast from Gray to Black is horrendous, so using the Boxed Color colors it immediately and your problem and anxiety is gone.  Most of you will just apply it to your new growth ,or roots ( or BASE) and so you cannot tell what it does to the texture of the hair until your hair has GROWN OUT with this Crappy low quality hair color, because at the beginning that lousy color is only on the first inch or 2 of hair. 

It is not until your hair grows out until you can truly tell what this lousy quality, horrible product does to your hair. It starts to make your hair look like shoe polish and it feels like straw. I receive so many different descriptions of how horrific their hair feels, so if its not there now, it soon will be ............the best thing you can do is :
STOP USING it immediately. 

I'm Serious 
stop using it.
Put the words in the SEARCH BAR here on the Blog " Shampoo Train". Do everything that says in regards to removing all 
"OLD" hair color 

Because many of you try to go from using Boxed hair color directly to using a wonderful Professional hair color and you cannot understand 'why' the transition did not solve all of your problems. 
Think about going from SHOE POLISH to Velvet.
That is what you are doing.
MUST..............REMOVE...........THE............SHOE..............POLISH...............1st ! 
Start over and use the quality hair color like Wella . . . .like Schwarzkopf . . . .like Framesi.

But the old lousy Color ( which includes Sally's color, and all lower quality hair colors) has to be removed before you will ever benefit.

Some of you refer to the roots you see in the transition from Box color to professional color................."HOT ROOTS". That is not what that Term means.

So your very first goal is to remove all of the old color.

What is the closest color to GRAY?

So what you want to do is either get your hair as light as possible........or maybe even put some highlights in ( as much as I absolutely hate them and their look) which will make the line of demarcation less noticeable. Judy Dench's hair is Blonde it is not gray.....it looks gray because of her age, but she has a great colorist and I feel it looks beautiful.
 Here is a very quick fix method for double checking your formula that you have come up with after reading the entire BLOG. The first POST is above.

For the most simple method of reviewing your gray coverage formula.

What Level is your VIRGIN hair color?
Lets use the above photo.............................on the left is the BEFORE photo!
Her virgin level hair color is Level 8

She has 40% Gray
For Good gray coverage use the Level of the virgin hair
So Choose a NEUTRAL , which means a color that has both the letter N and the Number "0"

So her first color is: 8/0Neutral.........use the percentage of gray in the neutral ......so 
8/0N : 40% of formula
8/3G : 30%
8/1A :  30%.................................................always use 20 Volume with Gray coverage.

Remember this is a quick assesement, and alter it for the level of your own hair color.
The most important factor?

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