June 29, 2007

Who in the World Decides Which Hair Styles Become the Newest 'RAGE' ?

Don't you ever wonder who in the

world thought of this or that hair-do?

Like who or what made the BEATLES come over here
with those "BEEBOP" black Hairstyles that were so long
and ALWAYS in their eyes?Look at this girl to the right ....she is right out of that movie this year that brought in $350 million dollars in 3 days! Suicide Kings............hair color look familiar?
What came first the hair color or the movie?

The initial fascination with all things hair began almost 25 years ago for me. . . stemming from hobbies in hair, chemistry, beauty and the health of the body. Born and raised in southern California, a a former professional athlete I was lucky enough to be afforded a unique background... it brought the knowledge of healthy body-mind and spirit to the table -- the unique crossroad to the success of my career as a busy successful,(hair) colorist, stylist, cosmetic chemist and ultimately Trichologist.

The industry of professional hair has not been both: updated, nor kept up to date, as it should.
Hair, high up is not randomly chosen --- it is guided and crafted brilliantly by the Industry of Fashion. As a collection of clothing is revealed not only has the Designer been planning clothing but also in the back of his head at all times is that brazen new set of hair ( & makeup) concoctions he will be sending down the catwalk as well. The styles you see the trends you watch, they are no accident - they have a beginning-middle and end. Every designer has been batting around hair ideas as crucial as the clothing designs, thinking, talking to hair gurus he trusts, & new ones he may gamble on, its a crap shoot of his own design.

The day of the reveal of both clothing and hair can be made with simply 1 style or as many as 4 bold statements or trends - with very clever titles. This is how the process of new hair styles and color techniques introduce themselves to the world, Fashion designers basically chose the next trends. and proceed to make their way to the states. although a step in the proper direction is being taken. Once the hair styles are seen on the catwalks they trickle down to the wealthy, the celebrities, the rebels and finally hit home (if at all) a year or two later. The hair in America is always a minimum of a year behind European designs.

Hopefully someday we will catch up to the chaps in merry ole England or at bare minimum close the gap between the 2. Its not life or death or rocket science, but it is attached to the body and it can be an expression of ones soul. Simply put: its more exciting and inspiring to people to try different styles and colors with hair > as it truly is - only hair.

Why not use hair as a form of artistic expression? I try to encourage parents to let their children use their hair to express themselves, it the safest body part available. Nothing is permanent, it can always be chopped off and begun again new and fresh. There is no harm done and it gives a child a sense of ownership, confidence and freedom. Its fun and harmless and have known of many cases where that took the place of some other much more worrisome rebellion.

The best example of this winters hair collections (both cut & color) I found looks like this:
whatever . . .
they're cool to look at
It IS . . .

June 26, 2007

Top Silicone Serums Calm Frizzy Hair Problems

One of the advantages of being a hair stylist is Sampling the millions of products developed each year.... so you don't have to buy them then throw half away, which I know a lot of people do.

It depends on YOUR hair as to which Serum would be the absolute best I will tell you after all these years I have settled on a combo of 3 and I play with the ratios depending on the clients hair.

All of these are great and at one point or another I have used each of these for a minium of 6 months - they rock. Right now I am hot on Schwartzkopf Magic, and always Kera Care's SilkenSeal Spray and Kenra's Smoothing Creme..............you cannot fail with these.

June 25, 2007

Beat the Frizz Monster To A Pulp: Killer Strands Clinic Handy Hints

Flatten That Fricken Frizz
5 - Part Series - Part 5
Killer Strands Handy Hints are the
smoothest route to de-frazzling the Fuzz

The NUMBER 1 TOP TIP for Frizz and Curlie Heads?-> Become an EXPERT With Serums
  • purchase multiple weights {light-medium-thick}

  • different areas of the hair need thicker Serum : the fringe {bangs} & the top layer of your hair (more damaged)

  • lighter serums(spray) perfect for muliple applications during the day
Remember they are a combo of Cyclomethicone,Trimethicone & Dimethicone...do not purchase Serum with Alcohol in the ingredient list, Alcohol is drying. If Dimethicone is "BEFORE" Cyclo on the ingredient list - (provided they have done things properly) - the Serum should be heavier/thicker. Truthfully the only way to know is to 'feel' and experiment which can be an expensive little test.
Call Beauty Supply's until you find one that has TESTERS, or they let you bring a product back if it doesn't work.
There are expensive and medium priced versions of Serums { if the correct ingredients }
Remember my absolute favorite 2 are made by Kera Care...
Silken Seal Drops and Silken Seal Spray. Yep they are expensive but they are smokin' hot.

Recipe for making your own hair Serum's
**making one batch can not only be the perfect consistency for YOUR HAIR, it can last a full year and scent it anyway you like!

Hues THAT Girl ? ? ? Hair Color to Die For

June 24, 2007


?Being a curl queen will mean you have absorbed and use every rule, trick and secret known to man for the solution & smoothing of frizz everywhere. There are dozens of tricks in all of which I am in the process of revealing for you curly-heads everywhere.

This solution might seem a bit of a stretch for some but I know there will be many who already practice it yet found it out completely by accident. Its not something advertised NOR talked about much, which baffles me as to ‘why’ not ?!?! Killer Strands will be sure to ram it into the ground - into this blog and into you curly-heads ‘ears’ as often and frequently as possible . .
my personal favorite solution to the Frizzy’s?

Hair color, but not any hair color, so please don’t have the car engine running already! The Hair color that solves the Frizzy’s is made by WELLA and called COLOUR TOUCH. I was truly fortunate in my early training, having the most brilliant Colorist take me under her wing giving me a head start on my classmates and the rest of the world. At Sassoon (back in the day) we had the lovely advantage of experimenting, testing and playing with every single hair color product on the market with 1 Academy here in Santa Monica and the other in London between the 2 we sampled & tested all hair color on the market which I continue to do today. In all of my work over the years, I make it a habit to stay current and most definitely within hair it is vital.

Within my hair color expertise, I find it necessary to experiment with each and every new product that comes out as new technologies are developed constantly. Some are good and terrific new inventions and some are just plain stupid….this one is brilliant and it is a line of color that no one has come anywhere close to. This line of colour is what’s called Demi-Permanent, in other words it ‘does not lighten’ it tints hair the same level or darker. This line of colour works absolute miracles on curly/frizzy hair, the way its made /the level of developer it uses is truly a small miracle on your curls & Frizz. Now, how you are going to get this color, is another tricky issue, its not sold in stores and is made for the color professional exclusively.

The professional formula of Color Touch enriches hair with vibrant color and brilliant shine. Hair transforming keratin evens out the hair structure and makes it possible for the shine illuminating pigments of Color Touch to attach to the hair more easily. The result: up to 50% more vibrant color.

Natural wax conditions the hair to create brilliant shine and vibrant color. This means up to 50 % more shine on previously untreated hair.

The creamy consistency of the professional Color Touch formula allows for even distribution on the hair’s surface. Combined with the equalizing properties of the shine illuminating pigments, the end result shows brilliant shine and beautiful, rich color.
Liquid Hair Keratin evens out and balances damaged areas of the hair structure for more even color results as it adds strength and volume while building fullness, shine and beautiful, rich color.

Wella’s exclusive, patented Shine Reflex Pigments penetrate more evenly into the hair providing superior deposit, tonality and durability. The higher pigment density delivers vibrant, intense color coverage. Natural emollients condition and soften the hair leaving it feeling silky smooth while helping to improve and even out the color balance. The ammonia-free formula provides for a gentle conditioning process.

The thicker formula with improved creamy viscosity helps the color stay where it is placed when using a bottle or bowl and brush to apply. Creative techniques are now easier, too, because the color stays in place and there is a noticeable improvement in color absorption further enhancing even color results. The pleasing fragrance makes it a more pleasant hair color experience for the colorist and client as well. You can go to Wella’s website for a referral to a Salon in your Area or email me and we will get the 2 of you hooked up …PLEASE we’d love photo’s, you will not believe the shine this colour puts out, they have mildly reformulated it 2 times I know of – with each one – even better!
June 21, 2007

Ride the Natural Wave of Smoooooth HAIR


Have your KeraCare products arrived yet?
What's the deal?
I have kept that secret for well over 15 years, never telling a soul what I use on the curlies so successfully.
On the set I would put it all in blank bottles so no one would know what it was, I was determined to keep my little trix mine, it all seems so silly now...
I'm glad I finally got it out there, because I know how it will help all of you.
The best part about this line? The cost!

Unfortunately as a Curlie-Whirlie or Dizzie-Frizzie you are condemned to a life of multiple and various juggling products, depending on factors such as weather, type & length of hair, skill level of "product-usage"..

Uh Jiminy Crickets do the 'straighties' have to deal with this shit?

In order for your hair to become manageable and soft which is the only way you learn to like it, you must invest in 6 or 8 of the products from yesterday's post. Another wonderful highlight of the KeraCare Line ? Along with the proper ratio of silicone's they have ingredients that work to repair the hair strands as well, including essential oils that over the centuries have been proven to truly work wonders on hair, I include various ones in all of my formulations.

The tight curl structure of curly hair makes it difficult for the natural oils from the sebaceous glands to flow down and lubricate the hair shaft, causing the hair to become dry and brittle. In a last ditch attempt many of you will perform "home" and poor quality Relaxers in order to remove 'some' of the frizz however the chemicals used in these products are strong and often leave the hair worse.

The reason & beginning need for the "Leave-In" conditioner phase.

After the shower, shake the hair out It will take a couple experimental runs to get the "amount" correct of the Leave in. Apply Leave-In by dipping in jar - rubbing the creme smoothly together evenly between the hands....so there are no clumps or lumps.... you want a nice even light coat of it to cover all your hair, possibly running a large tooth comb thru after to make sure it gets evenly distributed. Then, leave it ALONE.
Fiddling and fumbling and playing with curly hair - ONCE Set - is a HUGE mistake, unless your look for the day is "BIG HAIR"!

For the ultimate styling method when the goal is Frizz-FREE,
you are going to have to limit the use of your blow dryer

Wavy hair that
dries naturally
tends to go less frizzy. Remember, I have no allegiance to any company or brand...I make my own conditioners that blow the doors off off anything you can get at any Beauty Supply, Neiman Marcus or Macy's counter and to not seem biased I have chosen to use Kera Care as the brand I would recommend.

Contacting KERA CARE next week, I am anxious to see what they think of my VLOGGING idea..to shoot a 3-5-10 minute VLOG showing how exactly to apply all of their products, there is an art to it,I'd like to teach.

Do you know that, within "GOOGLE'S" Search whirlwind online business, the Number 1 and 2 topics searched for in the "HAIR" category?...

#1 : is CURLY HAIR



So you are being heard...loud and clear....
the problem, especially in my position of wanting to solve every problem that exists in the hair universe, is..........

one solid answer ...a magic pill.

When I was in the Salon, and someone would come to me with these concerns....we would book a Relaxer.
Mind you this can be a $500.00 solution &
It 'can' take most of one day to perform.
But it is a solution.
10 years ago we didn't have the solution we have today.
So there is one, you just have to be independently wealthy to afford it.

The truth will be told here and you must understand
the reason it costs so much?
The time it takes to do it properly.
If it takes 6-7-8 hours perform? Of course you have to pay a hairstylist the rate they would make if they were 'not' doing this procedure...it is fully justified the $$ amount it costs.

I have not fully looked into the so called "Japanese Straightening Method" but within the world of cosmetic chemistry...there are only certain chemical strategies
available, there are no "secret" chemicals...that is not how the world works. It is simply, "MARKETING",they RE - NAMED the regular Relaxer, added a few little silly steps ( like: flat iron the hair right after rinsing)...
steps that I already did with my relaxers, which ended up a brilliant way to pump new energy into a technique that had lost interest in it for years.

No one believes more in clever marketing strategies than me...my college degree is in the subject...so when I can use them - I do.

It takes between 4-5-6 sometimes 8 hours to complete the process the correct way,
depending how long and how thick the hair is. So its merely the "time" and product you are paying for,fully understandable.

June 17, 2007

FAUX HAWK HAIR Styles - becoming a CLASSIC { there's an oxymoron}

Bleach Blonde Do's Rock the Runway and the Street

Two Lengths <> Two Lovelies

June 10, 2007

Amy Winehouse Starts a Hair Trend

I fully realize this is a HAIR Blog, so thank God her hair rocks as well

Who the hell is this Woman ? ? ?I haven't heard music like this since....well......since I saw Jimmy Hendrix at the Forum play the guitar with his teeth. That was a man lost in his music and so is this chick
Wow, there is a God . . .

I Tivo-ed her Special on MTV Friday night . . . If you haven't seen it...catch it...although she doesn't have my fav songs on there, she's absolutely F--king incredible
The Killers and Evanescence reinspired me lately
as did Brandy Carlile and Mika
I am just very thankful the music I know and love has not died
and needed to get that - OUT THERE -
any bit i can do to help resurrect it and keep it here...I will do...
i guess that is part of what these Blogs are here for as well. hope I haven't been too serious...
cuz I am not....
i mean
music inspires me
it has always inspired my hair work...I used to do the hair for various artists for Grammy's/Academy Awards etc... I will break out an old photo and post
check out Amy
let me know what you think..........
..Killer Chemist

GREY (HAIR'S) ANATOMY - Easy, Cheap & Brilliant Cover for Grey Hair

Works Wonders for the "NEW-TO-GREY HAIR-CROWD"

This method will save you many headaches. . .

  1. buys you some time

  2. if you change your mind going back to grey without problems...

  3. mix it up - show distinguishing greys sometimes - sometimes not

  4. cover roots till next appointment

  5. cover roots: lessen amount of time's you need Salon appointment

  6. only have 10 grey hairs? cover them and nothing else

June 7, 2007

Ethnic Hair Care & The Curls That Love It


the problems of the ethnic hair crew
I have yet to meet a person who didn't want the kind of hair they didn't have

Just remember that the next time you get down on yourself and your hair... as I know everyone does.... Straight hairs wish they had curly, they really do and vice-versa. Its plain and simple human nature I have decided --to want, what you don't have. As you grow older, that will change and go away....you get comfortable in your own skin (and hair).

The challenges facing the Ethnic hair care client are different than their counterparts....but believe me BOTH have just the same amount of challenges - they are just 'different'.
The most common complaints:
  • dryness
  • fragility & breaking
  • styling options
  • proper products
Surveys indicate the ethnic hair clients seek professional services every 2-3 weeks while their counterparts regularly come every 6-7 weeks....so they do seek out help more. The most common treatment? Relaxers. Both at home versions as well as the Salon/Professional type. During my years in The Salon, there was no one doing relaxers and I just didn't understand 'why'... so I began the trait. Not a lot of Hair Stylists do them as they are also the most complicated procedure as well as the most critical, dangerous and challenging. 

They are the single Salon service where you make the absolute MOST difference in the hair for a client, and after you have completed a successful relaxer you have made a committed and dedicated client "for LIFE", I have never seen a happier more thrilled hair client than the successful hair Relaxer client. Every single one of them calls 2 days later when they shampoo for the first time literally blown away that after the shampoo the hair did not return to its curly frizzy stage - I have received many MANY fantastic thank you gifts for this service unlike any other service I had performed, it was the coolest thing to me. So, if you have curly hair and are super frustrated with it, seek out a Relaxer specialist.... there are many around the country. If you get stumped you are welcome to call us.

From my experience I would just never recommend this service for anyone to do at home... ever ..it is just too dangerous and the 'timing' aspect is too crucial. Having weak hair to begin with you just don't have the leeway for mistakes, besides the ingredients used in professional Relaxer products are simply better for the hair.

If you insist on getting one and cannot afford the Salon price (@ $150.00 to $500.00 per APP.  it comes in as the most expensive Salon procedure - it can take up to 7 hours to complete) the next best step: look into being a hair model for demonstrating its application, go to the local Beauty Academy and get in on their "model night" or their weekly hair model list. { does not mean you need to be model material all over - don't worry!} I know here in LA,many of you interested in this would be more than welcome at the Vidal Sassoon Academy in Santa Monica, and the Paul Mitchell Academy in Orange County...they are both always looking for hair models as are all good Salons and Beauty Schools they never have enough people to work on. 

The advantage to this option is:
  • have an instructor standing over their shoulders
  • before they ever put product on live model, spent weeks practicing on 'doll heads with shaving cream'
  • watch the procedure done by instructor on stage a few times...
  • reading on it...
  • studying on it....followed by 'written' testing of it
  • more doll head work..practicing the sectioning and application -- combing-- stretching and the speed needed to do it....
  • THEN they let the students work on real clients
Now I am talking the best Hair schools in the USA which are Vidal Sassoon and Paul Mitchell....the others will be run totally different - do some research. 

This can be a terrific and successful procedure.  When there is a will there is always a way. As this Blog goes on I am hoping more of you will submit questions and comments, I had a lovely girl suggest I write about ethnic hair...I am more than happy to write about every and any subject --- please - - -I look forward to your comments and requests.
Remember a Relaxer is the same exact chemical make-up as NAIR or NEET Or any hair remover....if left on the hair too long........what do you think will happen ? 
 Yes, the hair can be lifted right off the head....so it is imperative to find a professional to have tiit applied correctly. They do have straighteners now, but being out of the Salon I have not been able to try them myself.....so I will not give advice about something I have only heard "stories" about. I feel you come to me for the truth and I will not make things up.

The key to aceing a Relaxer is the "Timing" of it...The timing and the division of the application procedure. I had one Assistant that was trained in depth on Relaxer -application... so he knew {almost} as much as I did, I sent him to 3 different Relaxer Seminars, many stylists do not want to share the job like this...but it is the only way for it to be super successful for both the client AND the stylist. If its done on a man or a woman with a short cut, one can do it, any longer than chin length hair and it becomes the job of 

2. When booking one it always had to be on a day he was working because the key to the success is applying - pulling and stretching the hair flat with the Relaxer Creme on the hair and doing it fast....making small sections all around the head and being sure to coat > comb > & stretch...from the minute it has been applied to the minute you hit the shampoo bowl to rinse should be between 9 & 16 MINUTES only! That is not very long, even for the fastest stylists on the planet, doing this correctly at home would be impossible.
That is why you want to have a qualified practitioner perform the relaxer on your hair ~