Ammonia in Hair Color /Facts Talk… B/S walks

Ammonia Friend or Foe?

Ammonia, the big bad chemical of hair color, is what they would have you believe. I have been explaining this one for years, and am going to give it one more shot, in light of the recent entry to hair color L’Oreal’s Non-Ammonia Hair Color ….INOA. To me? I feel the entire issue is just a misunderstanding and the very low rating of the current professional hair color by L’Oreal used the misunderstanding to introduce this new line and give it a (hopeful) boost in the race of Professional Hair color lines. Waiting until the initial flurry of advertising, analyzing,  and reviewing was over with, I’m ready to give you the exact same report as I predicted.

To begin with (as I always do) I went to purchase and run it through some of my own personal tests, that have showed me over the years how reliable they are.  I look for a well balanced (violet-based) “blond”, great Gray coverage, 1 gorgeous brunette with the more color selections –in both LEVELS and TONES - -the better.

The Color Line I am reviewing must have certain ingredients in the accompanying “developers” > that (to me) is a sign the company “gets it” as far as quality and how hair color affects the hair’s health. The ingredients I feel must be in the developers are mandatory for moisturizing, conditioning, and lipid-replacement during the hair-coloring ‘development process’. This is the one and only time the cuticle of the hair is open -- THE ONE  AND ONLY > > > TIME! ( so you may change the internal structure of the hair – whether it be for ‘re-conditioning’ or ‘re-coloring’ even ‘re-moisturizing’ by using a premium Developer
.

Too many hair stylists {to save money} will purchase giant drums of cheap Developer and then put that developer in the “other” Premium bottles. Just like they do with ketchup in restaurants ( my daughter told me they fill up Heinz ketchup bottles with giant vats of crappy ketchup-) same difference. You know what is even MORE embarrassing ? Sassoon had us do that in Academy, it was one of the first things we learned - - how to dilute developer down. 

Sassoon was an Academy, it did not have “repeat clientele” we did everyone’s hair once. So there was a lot for me to learn about managing my own hair color business, once I got out on my own. Sassoon did not care about the health or strength of a clients hair, because they never experienced the ramifications by clients complaining about the condition of their hair.



THAT CHANGED when I went on my own. . . with the clientele I acquired in Malibu, California…my number #1 GOAL needed to be the health of the hair. These people were back in my chair 4-5-6 weeks later and on-going for years… so that was something I had to construct myself, I wanted it to be the best in the business. I used to tell my clients, I didn’t ‘need’ business cards for my hair work. THEY were my business cards - - what better business card than a walking 3-D one?!

 I would get more referrals from random people asking my clients who did their hair, that was always the highest compliment, in my book.

The whole Ammonia – in….Ammonia – out controversy started 10 years back, at that time I was not educated in Cosmetic Chemistry, and what chemicals and ingredients do ‘what’ to the hair. When I went to purchase L’Oreal’s INOA, they wouldn't sell it to me……..why? You are required to take a “class” in order to purchase it…they wouldn’t even sell it to me! I was furious, I told them………..GOLDWELL tried that 6-7 years back with their color called ELUMEN.
Do you see ELUMEN on the shelves now?
No you don’t  - - - - -  that little trick doesn’t work

Colorists of the upper caliber – whom are the ones that will give your line the publicity it needs to become popular…don’t have time to take a $25.00 class (PLUS - they want to charge you to take a class in order to purchase this new color product they are trying to launch !) – are you kidding me?! After looking it over and reading some of the literature… there was HUGE RED #2 :
NO BLONDE’s!
 
So for that to be  part of its secrets . . . well, that is not a good one.

What is ammonia? what does it do in hair color?
Ammonia has LLLLLLong been used in permanent hair coloring.
  Ammonia sets the stage for the hair color to penetrate the hair strand by opening up the surface of the hair strand so that the dye can get through.Then, it effectively LIFTS OUT THE NATURAL HAIR PIGMENT so that the artificial hair color molecules can penetrate and deposit. That’s when you see the new shade, so essentially, ammonia is largely responsible for hair color’s ability to alter hair tone – without washing out.
What is ammonia-free color and how does it work?
Any hair color without ammonia most commonly contains MEA ( mono-ethanolamine ). MEA is effective at performing the first step of a color application – OPENING the cuticle. However, because the MEA molecule is 3.5 times larger than ammonia, it cannot penetrate the hair as effectively. So, in my opinion, I feel it cannot be as efficient at lifting the natural hair color OUT-OF-THE- Hair Strand & depositing the artificial hair color deep into the strand. 3.5 times bigger in a molecule is more than enough to render it not NEARLY as effective. Covering gray will not be nearly as long lasting, sufficient lightening {required to produce amazing blond and red shades} will just not be there.
Having tried MEA in a few hair color tests a few years back, I noticed that it didn’t rinse out of the hair as well either, which led to progressive darkening and dulling.

Ammonia has a distinctive odor, which if you ask me. . . is the true objection to it. Personally, I like the ingredient that WORKS…the one that allow me to achieve the tone of hair color I am seeking and leaving the hair in good condition. I have always found ammonia to do the best job in achieving the proper tones – mainly because of the size of the molecule. The molecules must shrink to go “inside”…if they are too big - - they all will not fit. There is a layer of “common sense” here to hair coloring.
ALL Permanent Hair Color and Demi Permanent Hair Color consists of:

• an oxidant
• alkalizer
• Dye

and that’s it.
Damage that may happen during the hair color process is caused by free radicals formed when the alkalizer reacts with the oxidant. Ammonia and MEA are both alkalizers.
One of the known problems of MEA is how hard it is to get it out of the hair strands when the color process is finished. One of the reasons for that “extra- training” they claim we need ? ? ? To explain how important it is that we not only rinse well, but shampoo TWICE with a Special shampoo that will be sure to get the MEA out of the hair strands, followed by 2 RINSES.
Knowing that, the most appropriate type of hair color for the MEA Alkalizer? Demi permanent.
When it comes to permanent hair color {which includes all blonds of any hue} In all tests I have studied, scientists have reported ammonia-based formulas provide longer-lasting color, more intense vibrancy, and superior gray coverage. As long as that are the results, I know for a fact, that anyone that has ever sat in my chair, cares more about 2 things:

1. The end outcome of the hair color
2. The health of their hair after it

10 out of 10, have never questioned ‘how’ I got their hair color to that point. If its healthy, that shows them I cared enough to make sure the hairs health was also in the equation.
                                                              

Thriven Deep Conditioner + Compliments

 

May: More Thriven Arrives on your door-step while compliments of KillerStrands surprize

Always remember your roots, where you came from and who you are. As much as I concentrate on hair color education for many of you, I never want to forget our roots and how Killer Strands Hair Clinic began. On teaching you how to acquire:
HEALTHY HAIR 
with my ace training at Vidal Sassoon Academy (while still privately owned; btw) – it was drilled into my brain and I concur – nothing is as important as Healthy – Shiny – Strong Hair……….NOTHING. Not one thing should be applied to the hair that will destroy its integrity, shine & growth. There is such a huge gap between what the public knows in how to create shiny strong hair and actual “fact”. . . it was the original reason for writing this BLOG…for giving “YOU” the public the knowledge that I possess, that many Sassoon educators know. 

10,000 Heads began 15 years ago with 3 Steps. It (obviously) was not called 10,000 HEADS (the amount of heads-of-hair, I had worked on at one point in my career), but the theory and bascis are the same. Do whatever is necessary to contribute to healthy hair. Hair Color need not be detrimental, quite the opposite as a matter of fact {begin reading the Blog from the beginning}, yes it will take a little work. There are very few rewarding things in life that don’t take ‘ a-little-work!’. The number 1 recommendation I give people “NEW” to Killer Strands {begin reading the Blog from the beginning}.  

When I reviewed the stats for May, I saw that THRIVEN had risen to the top of all 350 products we carry as the NUMBER 1 product sold. I don’t know ‘why’ it surprises me, its what we began with.
I sold THRIVEN in my Malibu Salon for $94.50, 8 years ago – and could never keep it in stock. Its a full day experience for me to put the concoction together, with the amount of it we sell now, I don’t know how much longer I can continue to do it myself. If you have not experienced THRIVEN, I will encourage you to give it AND the SECRET SUPPLEMENT a 90 day spin. (information on ‘where to purchase’ and how to incorporate into your life are enclosed w/ package). Remember, I have an 80-88% success rate with THRIVEN + Secret Supplement. There are 14 Steps to 10,000HEADS, we ask you incorporate the last 7 into your life and do your best on the first 7….the more you practice the better the improvement in your hairs health, strength and shine. Promise.
Remember though, I am a rarity…I still have not heard of a single person (if you are out there – let me know!) that has training in all the different aspects of hair care that I do. Add to that my naturally inquisitive attitude, and you get what the members lovingly call me “ KC  - - or Killer Chemist”.
Being the CHO (Chief Hair Officer) of Killer Strands Hair Clinic ; it puts me in a wonderful spot … I receive numerous compliments a week ( some are ‘due’ my Forum Staff, some my shipping/packing staff) the remainder are for me. I cannot stress how much these compliments mean to me, they give me the strength to keep going . . . they bring an indescribable warmth to my heart … they just truthfully MAKE - -  MY - - Day. I don’t want any of you to think I take your compliments lightly….EVER. EVERY single one means the world to me.
I used to THANK every single person, now I simply, do not have the time. Please know I appreciate every single one….I mean it,
every
single
one !
This week brought a compliment from the exact category of individuals I was sure would never send me one.         Hair Stylists/ Hair Educators.
I just had to share it with you
If you are a qualified and talented hair stylist/colorist the last thing you worry about are ‘other’ stylists.
Why should you?
Your book is so full of appointments there are waiting lists of people who want you to do their hair….there really isn’t any room for more clients. 40% of KillerStrands membership are licensed Hair Stylists (Yep!) looking for additional education, normally from smaller states – where it is not available. I commend these people for having the confidence and security to understand that what KillerStrands is doing is not against the hair industry and their business but rather “FOR” it.     
I would like you to read the following complimentary email I received from a new member:
“ ………….10:23 AM (23 hours ago)
Just by chance I found your blog.  Seems I am always searching for honest education.  I am a stylist of twenty-five years and I am still trying to sort fact from fiction!  I grew weary, in the early part of my career, with education from "professional" companies using education as a vehicle to sell and market their products.  Thus began my quest for education without sponsorship from any brand.  I think the first great information I found was a book by Tom Sollock, then I found Beth Minardi and traveled to NYC to take her class, then there was Roy Peters and Tom Despenza.  I wish I had known you at that point.  I have spent thousands of dollars and bought many books and the things I have learned thus far are in your two year blog, better said and more easily understood.
I am also a cosmetology instructor. I work when needed, substituting, color classes, cutting classes, for a Jr. College.  Your knowledge and skill of communicating in book form would be a great contribution to the cosmetology profession. It would have the potential of making the profession, professional.
I have ordered several of your products and found everything you have said to be true.  Thank you for this great resource of information and products.
Diana S.
TEXAS………………”

I realize the web has changed a lot in the past few years. There is so much BS - - - so much ‘mis’ information…you don’t know what to believe in. There was a 2-3 year period - - when the info on the Web was accurate – it ‘was’ educational, you could rely on it.
With Diana’s note, I feel she “summed” Killer Strands up - - better than I.   Thanks Diana. . . and to ALL that send us compliments, it means the world to me and inspires me to continue on
Happy Fathers Day, Dad . . .  and to all the Fathers out there
HUG  A   FATHER
Killer Chemist

I Scream …You Scream… We All Scream For Ice Cream Hair Color Palette

Krazy Kolors Go Pastel

Yes the style’s are over-the-top . . . but check-out the beauty and what can be done with hair in 2010. The top Hair Stylist in the world right now is a gentleman named Eugene Soulemain and although most of have never heard of him - he is the Vidal Sassoon of 2010 – this is his work.

Its not everyone’s taste, not even mine. . . BUT, sometimes you just have to admire the complexity that it took to make these colors AND styles happen. In the top echelons of hair there have always been these extremists, extreme texture, extreme color, extreme haircuts. Makes the observer wonder, “who in the world would ever wear this ?? “ To that, I respond….not many..in fact pretty much no one. The point is to push the boundaries of what can be done, so that the extreme nature of these ‘do’s – are then re-interpreted for film and other ventures. Think Avatar, Music Videos, Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, Video Games, etc.


A Salute to the Vampire hotness of today, am a huge True Blood Fan….I’d love to see this on the show.

This looks like Lady Gaga

   hmmmmmmm ? ? ? ? ?

h











Check out the insane make-up job on all of them, I mean as weird and crazy as it is…what else would look good with that type of hair…it looks very cool

I think it was last week , but one of you  wrote in the Group ( I think it was ) that you really wanted to have the color of this certain flower….at the time, I responded with : “while the color of the flower was drop dead…I wasn’t too sure it would look very good on the hair.
I am now here to admit, I was COMPLETELY WRONG. . .  COMPLETELY… Check this out . . . . .

I would love to have someone take this on right now. . . its bold but it is….. B E A U T I F U L….{the hardest part is finding a person daring enough to do the wild and crazy color work ..I so enjoy doing}
so, whomever  that was….I’m impressed with your “eye for color” – obviously it is leaps and bounds ahead of my own.
Summer is here,
do something fun with your hair  - - You only live once, and hair is more resilient  than you think
Killer Chemist

Answers To Your Hair Question are Here

“How to SEARCH Killer Strands Blog”: by Nikki, Our Dear, Longest Staff Member

In the Killerstrands group, we believe in helping you learn for yourself, how to take the best care of your hair.  We encourage you to read and learn the great information Killer Chemist has shared with us. And one of the best ways is to use the blog to research...
Why read it thoroughly? Because the answer to your question is almost always written already… If you don’t remember where you read it, you just need to be familiar with how to look…

Super Simple Search:

On the TOP of the blog, above the “Killerstrands” header – is a dark blue bar. On the far left is a “search box” for the blog itself. Enter the word or phrase you need more information about...and hit enter or the click the magnifying glass to search. If that doesn’t do it, use a similar term... search. IF that doesn't work, search on the opposite term.

3 easy tips on how to learn more:

1) Find out by using the topics. Use the tags on the right side of the blog. Detour did a marvelous job of tagging the topics for the entire blog (WOW)... you can usually read down the list and find one or more that are pretty close to the key word for your questions. These links start about one full blog post down (below the first set of ads) in the right-hand column. Search this way first, as sometimes the word "I" might think makes sense (bleach) has so many meanings - "developer" is not there alone, but "peroxide/developer" is.... So don’t stop at the first one or two options – read through the list.

2) Keep reading the blog, beginning to end - and do NOT skip the notes. Frequently, some great details and many expanded explanations are in the notes. KC hasn't gotten all of the questions turned into blog posts yet. A wealth of material lurks there - including her recipe for 6 shades of ribbons for my blondish hair.
REMEMBER - as time has gone by, some of the early recommendations have been changed, as far as products. Subsequent posts note, for example, that x or Y was a disappointment. (Clairol Pro, for example - had promise but it didn't hold true to it). That's why sometimes jumping into action too soon is not good - read and keep reading… make sure.... the answers are not always immediate.
3) Join the Killerstrands group (you will find information on how to the right of the blog). You can search the discussions for group. And - do not take anyone's advice but KC's unless she echoes or reinforces it. There are good answers and good discussions in the group. In the early days, before the store, KC had more time to post answers there, so there are some expanded topics. Additionally, the moderators and other group members help by pointing to the answers in the blog, so you can find more information or longer explanations in the discussions. The Killerstrands group has a search box, too.

Once you’ve joined, you can go to the group’s home page:
http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands?hl=en
Look on the same "row" as the group’s title, to the right. You will see a search box with two buttons after it, which will enable you to search the group. Enter the word or phrase in the box(see point 1 above – try synonyms as well). When you click a button, pick the first one “Search this group” - you don't want to search the world of all google groups for bleach and tone!
In addition to G1(Group1) , which will remain exactly the same . . . we are expanding our little hair care empire . .  with an addition of a Fee-Based PREMIUM LUXURY Group – the name? TCE – This Changes Everything    
Last tip: don’t forget to not only read, but click through and shop the advertisers. That helps KC. It makes it possible to keep the blog alive, and the readership statistics help encourage her.
killer Chemist

The Way Hair Color Works is Scientifically Magic to Me

1 Color = 2 Uses

To me? The only true “permanent” hair color is Bleach ( which I refer to as lightener) All Hair Color Tints, very lightly fade – every single one of them – there isn’t a tint made that doesn’t fade. I appreciate the fact they very lightly fade, I mean all the color I support and recommend comes out vivid, adds body and volume and a color resurgence. After 5-6 weeks of wear and tear the color fades to about the perfect point to either keep the same color, lighten it 1 level or darken it to pretty much any color of the rainbow. So the name “permanent” hair color is not only mis-leading it is completely wrong. If it remained that vivid for all 6 weeks, then you would have overlapping problems with hair tint the same that we have with bleach. So looking at the mild fadage that comes from 6 weeks between appointments, is a plus. Very few of my clients wanted to be the exact same color month after month. They would go a bit ( or a lot) lighter in spring/summer . .  going darker in the fall/winter months…it made that very easy to accomplish with the minor fading.

Hydrogen peroxide ( developer) is the OXIDIZER for permanent hair color, providing the oxygen for lightening of your natural pigment and for the development of the ‘ARTIFICIAL PIGMENT”. If any damage occurs to the hair strands… It is the hydrogen peroxide in permanent hair coloring – NOT THE AMMONIA – that would cause it. I am constantly trying to explain this difference to clients / readers.  With ammonia having such a strong and jarring odor, it is always taking the heat for the damage it brings to the hair strands when nothing could be further from the truth.

Top colorists realize that using the lowest Volume of peroxide (“for the job”) is the key and secret to minimizing any damage to the hair strands while coloring. Just yesterday, I was testing the brand new color line we will be carrying in the new Group : TCE…I had not re-colored the “lengths” of my own hair in over a year ! I applied the permanent color to my base and then mixed up this new line of Demi-permanent color for the lengths of my hair. 2 words:
Vivid….Velvet
My hair has never looked or felt better, I have never found hair color to be damaging….EVER. The one and only reason it would be damaging is if you are not applying it correctly and for that? Well? You will need to do some reading, join one of the 2 groups we offer, or get a consultation if need be…Because having properly colored hair is just a few steps away and I promise you its just not that hard. You must be ready to realize one of my most poignant statements:
NOT ALL PEOPLE CAN BE ALL HAIR COLORS; many need to compromise
The chemical shorthand for hydrogen peroxide, H2O2, means 2 hydrogen atoms and 2 oxygen atoms. Higher volumes of  Hydrogen Peroxide provide more oxygen for more extended lightening. Higher volumes create more lift and less deposit ; lower volumes create less lift and greater deposit. This is why better gray coverage is achieved with 20 Volume rather than 40 volume.
Some strength of hydrogen peroxide has to be used in to develop the dyes of permanent haircoloring.  Just to get the dyes to color the hair, an OXIDIZER has to be present.( In turn – peroxide all by itself will NOT lighten hair, either…it needs to react with ammonia –or similar ingredient- in order for efficient oxidation to occur. Peroxide, ammonia, and the dyes all need each other to get the haircoloring to work.
Something I found in the Salon, was that 95% of my clients, while all health nuts and environmentalist-types . . . when it came right down to it . . .what  they ALL really wanted was superb hair color and that is what I wanted to give them.  I would use permanent hair color pretty much most of the time, by using various Volumes of developer I could do anything with (so-called) permanent hair color. If you were to take a tube of Koleston Perfect permanent hair color . . .lets use one of my new favorites…
See below in this swatch chart. . . . 9/38  or  9GP Gold Pearl
       The GP colors have an iridescent violet base almost, so I love ‘em. 
The client has level 7 – 8 ASH Virgin hair she would like some Level 9 Ribbons & Drips added for the summer ( a very common request here in southern Cal.)  
 
Using 10/38 GP and 40 Volume using the proper foiling technique for the desired look , developing for 60 minutes . . . we would get the lightened pieces we were looking for.
rinse, light shampoo, In-Depth , TOWEL DRY…..
Say those strands were just a little brassier than you desired… you could also “tone” them using the exact same color…
how?
by changing the peroxide VOLUME…..by using 10Volume mixed with 10/38 GP – you have created a TONER ! ! See how versatile permanent hair color can be ? ? Depending on the amount of brass you would like to knock-down – Apply the 10/38 + 10V accordingly.
If the brass is just a ‘little’………… process for 10 minutes…a lot? Process for 35 minutes…Rinse ( NO SHAMPOO)  and style. You would NOT be able to do that with a semi permanent or Demi permanent line of color.  So that turns all of the level 9 and 10 colors of the Koleston Perfect Line of color we carry into TONERS. Which gives you such a wide selection I should have taught you this a very long time ago.
                                                                                                        The dyes in permanent hair color, all aniline derivatives or aniline relatives of various types, are most of all indirect dyes, which must undergo oxidation in order to color the hair. These are also called dye precursors or intermediates. The dye intermediates are tiny, colorless dye molecules that develop into large, colored molecules when oxidized. Hydrogen peroxide is required as an Oxidizer (developer) .  
Shortly after the dye-bearing cream is combined with the developer ( peroxide) – dye molecules begin developing, rearranging into bigger, complex, colored molecules. That is the number 1 reason  hair color should not be mixed until just before application – that and the fact that the lift cycle is underway soon after mixing. Color Deposit and lifting capability begin ticking away approx. 10 minutes after the colorant is mixed - -  which gives you 10-20 minutes to apply the product.
The tiny size of the dye precursors ‘before’ oxidation enables them to  pass easily into the cortex of the hair, penetrating it fully. As, the color processes………..the tiny dye molecules change  structure, beginning to form bigger larger  -- colored molecules.. These newly created dye molecules , now  - -  are too big to leave the way they came in, affix themselves to the keratin chains in the hair.
I suppose the most distinct and remarkable trait of a permanent hair color? This is the only category of hair color that “lightens” virgin hair. Think of how often you have wanted to lighten your hair???….. As a Colorist, I would venture to say,75% of all my color work is “lighter”. That is a lot.
There fore  this is a super important hair color category to be concerned with
Happy Memorial Day- - Hug a Soldier
KC     

Twinkle, Twinkle : Stars with No Make-up ?

Now if we can just get them to drop the fake hair

TV & Movie Stars are exposing themselves to the public with no make-up, and proving what they really look like. In first noticing this trend earlier this week w/ Jessica Simpson on the cover of Marie Claire {completely bare} – I found a trace of hope

Now here is the most wonderful and inspiring trend, I just had to Post about – in the middle of my “Hair Color Correction Series { I promise we will return quickly}
Simpson not only was the first to do the above bold move, she also completed a new series on VH1, that I encourage everyone to watch. A show on Beauty habits from around the world. . . completely unique and groundbreaking. Worth the 30 minutes, I promise.

There is a specific reason I don’t pepper KillerStrands Blog with Celebrity Hair, receiving requests for it all the time, its hard to “Not Do”. My reason is purely for all of you. You should see what the trailer or dressing room of any one celebrity looks like in preparation for a hair shoot or a day of shooting: rows and rows of hair strips, weaves of every type and length of hair style imaginable. The figure is: about 80% of all hair you see on TV/Film is manufactured hair.
Wigs, extensions, clip-in’s, glue-in’s, they have really gone insane with the whole manufactured hair thing. So many people look up to Celebrities, with knowing so many personally, I truly feel it is a 100% disadvantage to YOU – the public to use them as a guide for what to “strive-for”. We all must work with what we have been given. Majority of the photo shots I use on Killer Strands are real women with their own REAL hair, growing out of their own head! Just like you and me!
Now what they need to do is to send Simpson, Kardashians,Wendy etc., etc…to the photo sessions without all their extensions, pieces, weaves, and wigs. Some of the wigs they use today are from $5,000. - $50,000. with the average one checking out around $25,000.!
Cher was the pilot of this program, in the 80’s she was wearing wigs 95% of the time. Know why?
PURELY to protect her own hair from lights, make-up, heat, sweat, elements, you know all the bad things out there. I still remember thinking…”wow she must be paranoid”. Turns out she had it nailed and the rest of us hadn’t a clue - - She has always had a wig room in her homes . . . which is the size of a master bedroom to you and me. But I commend her for knowing what truly affects hair and in taking control of her own body and protecting it. She still wears wigs to this day, (her own locks have been tinted a special Black/Violet for years & she only has about 3% gray – she too, knows the advantage of great color), and her own hair is as glorious and magnificent as it was in her youth. Smart woman my dear Cher.

So rejoice in the new trends, and demand to see real(unmanufactured hair), I know for an absolute fact that most of you have just as healthy of hair as most Celebrities out there. They all cheat, a LOT with their wig rooms and personal hairstylists they cart with them from city to city . But when I saw some of the photos of the celeb’s this morning on the news with their absolutely unmanufactured face, I was very disappointed they forgot the most important part  < the hair ! >…make them take their fake hair off too, I was yelling at the TV. NOT FAIR!

Great hair can make up for a lot  misfortunes, one has to endure in any given day. I have heard that every single woman on planet earth has copped to having at least 1 bad Hair Day. . . but I have never heard them complain of having a “bad skin day”.

I sure hope someone will be brave enough to step forward with the Glamour shot of any ( or all ) of these women with their 100% own real hair, so the public may truly see what they look like bare and La Naturele as most of us end up being a majority of the time.
Killer
Chemist

Shear Genius meets the Perfect Storm : Houston, We Have A Problem

Hair Color Correction …….. I-Color

Hair Color Correction: the # 1 subject people head to the Internet searching the category of HAIR for . Problem is, most of you have never heard of that term, it has not been used enough publicly so 90% of people don’t know what to “SEARCH” for. Another one of those subjects that are not taught to the client. Whether you went to Wal-Mart – bought a boxed color, slapped it on yourself or headed to an expensive Colorist who sent you home telling you “ how the lighting was off” and you would love it tomorrow…BOTH are in need of Color Correction. Slap that term in your Blackberry, everyone seems to need it at one point in their life.
Very rarely do I see the proper information about how and what to do in this situation therefore I want to concentrate on this subject and different angles of it over the next couple of Posts. Eventually I would like to answer all questions so we have one complete folder on the subject. Sound Oovy Groovy?
Lets start with the basics Causes
of Color Correction
Prevention: if possible will always be preferable to Correction. Some corrective work can be avoided some cannot.
Next, the emphasis needs to be put on the area that it should always be put in all aspects of hair color : Analysis & Communication. It is very difficult to correct something, if you are not even sure what the problem is. I am going to make up a sort of Corrective Hair Color Trouble Shooter, for there to be a sort of quick reference, so Killer Stranders will be able to figure out a direction to turn to in each particular case.
When people begin to start their own personal hair color horror-stories that sound like a longer version of War & Peace, they lose me after about the 5th sentence. Why? To be perfectly honest?
The only thing that matters in color Correction is: VID
VIRGIN: What is your Virgin level?
IS: What IS your hair color level/tone now?
DESIRED: What do you DESIRE your level/tone to look like ?
Yes, for finer tuning we should always use the rest of the Killer8 ( elasticity, condition,texture, gray ? etc…) But truthfully it can be accomplished perfectly fine with just answers to the VID 3…..as long as what???????????????????????????? Adem??? As long the 4th question is answered: have you applied Henna, or Sun-In or any color with metallic salts (like JUST-FOR-MEN boxed hair color – BIG BAD NO on that – never,never,NNNNNNEVER!)

PRINCIPLES OF COLOR CORRECTION
1) Hair that needs to be lightened if too dark
2) Hair that needs to be darkened if it is too light
3) Changing the unwanted existing artificial color tone to suit your desires
Again, this does not mean that all color correction has to be a long drawn-out affair: it could turn out to be a quick process, so assessing your hair correctly is very important.
The one lucky part you have of doing this to yourself, is you will know the truth. I cannot tell you how many people come in and sit in a Stylists chair and ‘fib’ about what happened, what was involved, or the most common: will say a Stylist screwed their hair up and truthfully it was by their own hands. 50% of Stylists will not be able to figure out the truth, but the rest of us have sit there biting our tongues.
In the case of heading to a Colorist: My best advice?
cut the crap and tell the truth.
For today I am going to give you a list of questions to ask yourself. So many of you get all hung up on this brand and that brand name throwing in Volumes and time’s - - when none of that matters, once the damage is done
It is……………….What It IS

Here is a list of important questions that I would truthfully, sit down on that pretty ass of yours and ask yourself . . . it will help you keep on the right track and focus on what I would if your ass was in my chair :

• How did you like your last color?
• Did you want to keep the same color?
• What Tones do you really dislike?
• In your head point by use of a photo as to what YOU thinks “Ash” means ….or “warmth”…so much is lost in 1 person’s translation of a single world than anothers. Use photos, If you are doing this exclusively yourself, get a second opinion on what someone views your idea of “Golds”. Your thoughts and ideas may need adjusting – be open to it
• Would you like a slightly lighter shade?
• Confirm your idea’s of the Level System – and your Stylists, they could be completely different. . . or yours and knowing full well and good that Wella’s European lines (Color Touch and Koleston Perfect are 1 full level darker than any other line )
• Do you want it darker?
• Remember, pinpointing the problem is 1/2 the battle
• What do you think about using a few lighter slices, ribbons, panels, or ropes ?
• What change are you seeking?
• Do You think subtle effects are more your style?
• There is always what I refer to as either : “sticker shock” or “Color Hangover“ ( my fav) which does not mean the price nor the inhalation of chemicals, it means the shock of having a different color hair, it will undoubtedly be a shock to any- and every-one when the change is more than 3 levels. 60% of the time – If I really believe in the color I will ask them to go home and sleep off their Color Hangover – 9 times out of 10 I never hear back from them till the next time they come rolling in happy as pie. Don’t initially panic….I know it can be hard….but remember, its only hair.
• What colors do you like wearing?
• How do you feel about your hair today?
• If your hair was perfect, what would it look like?
• Which Celeb’s hair is close to your hair type ( including most factors) ? Ask someone else if they agree
• Reality sometimes is a bit of a walk from Hopes and Dreams. As fun as Hopes and Dreams are . . .REALITY is your best friend when dealing with hair color.

Now remember the idea here is to assess the situation correctly in order for the Color Correction to go perfectly.
Remember one of my favorite lines:
Chemistry/Chemicals don’t make mistakes – People Do

Color Change is the reason I got into this gig at all in the beginning. When ever I did anything that had no artist expression to it, I felt cheated – I felt something missing…its weird how you have ZERO control over that.
A colorist is like a composer, I’ve always felt that nothing moves the human spirit more than music. I can hear a song that will truly stop me in my steps and I HAVE to find out who it is in order to get that feeling back in my soul that just occurred…its almost addictive when an awesome song rings through my ears. For example it hit me numerous times this week: it was JAY-Z and Mr Hudson’s version of FOREVER YOUNG – that he dedicated to Betty White on SNL
…. Just took my breath away……….Thank the Lord up above for I Tunes, just makes my day sometimes.
Once I began coloring heads of hair and looking at them as works of art.. I began getting that “deep-in-the-soul” feeling as well. Now color affects me a close second to music. Where is Jobs when you need him?
I-Phone……I-MAC…….I-PAD…..…. I-COLOR

The 2 share so many of the same terminology: A scale has 7 different notes, white light has 7 different colors. These 7 notes (chromatic colors) of the color spectrum give the composer (colorist) unlimited opportunities for creativity. Hue corresponds to the notes, value to the scale, and chroma to the pitch. Like notes come together to form a beautiful melody,all the elements of light and energy join to create the visual sensation, I know as color.

Almost like fingerprints: No 2 heads of HAIR are alike. . . and That my dear friends is why there are not 55 books on how to color hair for the public or anyone for that manner.
Anyone that knows a lot about it, knows what a risk it is planting ONE SOLID formulation for a level 7Ash head of hair to end up a level 12 platinum.
I sure as Hell would never give 1 answer to that question.
What would I say?

…….. STRAND TEST
killer chemist