May 15, 2010

Shear Genius meets the Perfect Storm : Houston, We Have A Problem

Hair Color Correction …….. I-Color

Hair Color Correction: the # 1 subject people head to the Internet searching the category of HAIR for . Problem is,Red Hair most of you have never heard of that term, it has not been used enough publicly so 90% of people don’t know what to “SEARCH” for. Another one of those subjects that are not taught to the client. Whether you went to Wal-Mart – bought a boxed color, slapped it on yourself or headed to an expensive Colorist who sent you home telling you “ how the lighting was off” and you would love it tomorrow…BOTH are in need of Color Correction. Slap that term in your Blackberry, everyone seems to need it at one point in their life.
Very rarely do I see the proper information about how and what to do in this situation therefore I want to concentrate on this subject and different angles of it over the next couple of Posts. Eventually I would like to answer all questions so we have one complete folder on the subject. Sound Oovy Groovy?
Lets start with the basics Causes
of Color Correction
Prevention: if possible will always be preferable to Correction. Some corrective work can be avoided some cannot.
Next, the emphasis needs to be put on the area that it should always be put in all aspects of hair color : Analysis & Communication. It is very difficult to correct something, if you are not even sure what the problem is. I am going to make up a sort of Corrective Hair Color Trouble Shooter, for there to be a sort of quick reference, so Killer Stranders will be able to figure out a direction to turn to in each particular case.CNI0764161_Veer
When people begin to start their own personal hair color horror-stories that sound like a longer version of War & Peace, they lose me after about the 5th sentence. Why? To be perfectly honest?
The only thing that matters in color Correction is: VID
VIRGIN: What is your Virgin level?
IS: What IS your hair color level/tone now?
DESIRED: What do you DESIRE your level/tone to look like ?
Yes, for finer tuning we should always use the rest of the Killer8 ( elasticity, condition,texture, gray ? etc…) But truthfully it can be accomplished perfectly fine with just answers to the VID 3…..as long as what???????????????????????????? Adem??? As long the 4th question is answered: have you applied Henna, or Sun-In or any color with metallic salts (like JUST-FOR-MEN boxed hair color – BIG BAD NO on that – never,never,NNNNNNEVER!)
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PRINCIPLES OF COLOR CORRECTION
1) Hair that needs to be lightened if too dark
2) Hair that needs to be darkened if it is too light
3) Changing the unwanted existing artificial color tone to suit your desires
Again, this does not mean that all color correction has to be a long drawn-out affair: it could turn out to be a quick process, so assessing your hair correctly is very important.
The one lucky part you have of doing this to yourself, is you will know the truth. I cannot tell you how many people come in and sit in a Stylists chair and ‘fib’ about what happened, what was involved, or the most common: will say a Stylist screwed their hair up and truthfully it was by their own hands. 50% of Stylists will not be able to figure out the truth, but the rest of us have sit there biting our tongues.
In the case of heading to a Colorist: My best advice?
cut the crap and tell the truth.
For today I am going to give you a list of questions to ask yourself. So many of you get all hung up on this brand and that brand name throwing in Volumes and time’s - - when none of that matters, once the damage is done
It is……………….What It IS
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Here is a list of important questions that I would truthfully, sit down on that pretty ass of yours and ask yourself . . . it will help you keep on the right track and focus on what I would if your ass was in my chair :
  • How did you like your last color?
  • Did you want to keep the same color?
  • What Tones do you really dislike?
  • In your head point by use of a photo as to what YOU thinks “Ash” means ….or “warmth”…so much is lost in 1 person’s translation of a single world than anothers. Use photos, If you are doing this exclusively yourself, get a second opinion on what someone views your idea of “Golds”. Your thoughts and ideas may need adjusting – be open to it
  • Would you like a slightly lighter shade?
  • Confirm your idea’s of the Level System – and your Stylists, they could be completely different. . . or yours and knowing full well and good that Wella’s European lines (Color Touch and Koleston Perfect are 1 full level darker than any other line )
  • Do you want it darker?
  • Remember, pinpointing the problem is 1/2 the battle
  • What do you think about using a few lighter slices, ribbons, panels, or ropes ?
  • What change are you seeking?
  • Do You think subtle effects are more your style?
  • There is always what I refer to as either : “sticker shock” or “Color Hangover“ ( my fav) which does not mean the price nor the inhalation of chemicals, it means the shock of having a different color hair, it will undoubtedly be a shock to any- and every-one when the change is more than 3 levels. 60% of the time – If I really believe in the color I will ask them to go home and sleep off their Color Hangover – 9 times out of 10 I never hear back from them till the next time they come rolling in happy as pie. Don’t initially panic….I know it can be hard….but remember, its only hair.
  • What colors do you like wearing?
  • How do you feel about your hair today?
  • If your hair was perfect, what would it look like?
  • Which Celeb’s hair is close to your hair type ( including most factors) ? Ask someone else if they agree
  • Reality sometimes is a bit of a walk from Hopes and Dreams. As fun as Hopes and Dreams are . . .REALITY is your best friend when dealing with hair color.
Now remember the idea here is to assess the situation correctly in order for the Color Correction to go perfectly.
Remember one of my favorite lines:
Chemistry/Chemicals don’t make mistakes – People Do
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Color Change is the reason I got into this gig at all in the beginning. When ever I did anything that had no artist expression to it, I felt cheated – I felt something missing…its weird how you have ZERO control over that.
A colorist is like a composer, I’ve always felt that nothing moves the human spirit more than music. I can hear a song that will truly stop me in my steps and I HAVE to find out who it is in order to get that feeling back in my soul that just occurred…its almost addictive when an awesome song rings through my ears. For example it hit me numerous times this week: it was JAY-Z and Mr Hudson’s version of FOREVER YOUNG – that he dedicated to Betty White on SNL
jayzmrhudsonkj 11…. Just took my breath away……….Thank the Lord up above for I Tunes, just makes my day sometimes.
Once I began coloring heads of hair and looking at them as works of art.. I began getting that “deep-in-the-soul” feeling as well. Now color affects me a close second to music. Where is Jobs when you need him?
I-Phone……I-MAC…….I-PAD…..…. I-COLOR
iColor dupe
The 2 share so many of the same terminology: A scale has 7 different notes, white light has 7 different colors. These 7 notes (chromatic colors) of the color spectrum give the composer (colorist) unlimited opportunities for creativity. Hue corresponds to the notes, value to the scale, and chroma to the pitch.maxpiano99 Like notes come together to form a beautiful melody,all the elements of light and energy join to create the visual sensation, I know as color.
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Almost like fingerprints: No 2 heads of HAIR are alike. . . and That my dear friends is why there are not 55 books on how to color hair for the public or anyone for that manner.
Anyone that knows a lot about it, knows what a risk it is planting ONE SOLID formulation for a level 7Ash head of hair to end up a level 12 platinum.
I sure as Hell would never give 1 answer to that question.
What would I say?

…….. STRAND TEST
killer chemist

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