May 3, 2010

TOMMY–TONER, EENIE – MEENIE—MYNEE – MONOR – This Is How You Have A Blonde With Honor and a Great TONER

Killer2581 With Spring and the new Blonde’s being settled I realized that I must begin getting my favorite class of colors in line for you. I feel if I get them in line and give away some of my secret formula’s I will get all the Blonde’s KS has as regulars playing around with their light locks. I mean how much fun is that, to have light enough hair to play around with new Toners every other week or so. It’s one of my favorite past times with my bleach ‘n’ tones ( I”m not afraid of bleach – in fact many times its the right tool for the job “please see my recent post in Group, in which I lost my cool on…!!!!”) as well as with my high-lifts.
Killer2556 Back at the ole corral ( Sassoon ) we would have days of boredom and come up with the craziest of experiments – may days were drawing color names out of a hat and having to go make that toner for a blond. I mean that may sound easy, but when someone writes, “ light turqoise blue” ( which we named “St. Barts”) it really is not that easy. Especially when its a contest, and you have 20-40 eager beaver Colorist’s chomping at the bit.
First of all one must have a stable ( notice todays “cowboy” theme!! ha ha – after that dear post in the Group) of “counter” toners. Your basic toner that will knock a lot or a teeny tiny bit of brass right out of that hair strand. We would Tone everything, I know many of you go by the rule, “ if there is ‘no yellow’ we need “no toner”… That is not really the professional way of doing things.
Killer2598
WE ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLWAYS TONE BLONDS. Why? Because that is the professional and TOP NUMBER 1 manner in which you should send someone out into the world that has either paid for one of 2 services:
1) Bleach and Tone. This does not say, only ‘tone’ if need be…it says BLEACH and when finished with that TONE the hair - - PERIOD. hairuk218
or
2) HighLift blond and Tone: same here, we ALWAYS tone. Why? Because toning is professional. Toning is the Icing on the cake. Killer2411 Can you imagine getting a cake with NO ICING ? ? ? ? TO us, it is the SAME --- EXACT---- DIFFERENCE. In England they always tone and would ever send a blond out of the Salon without a toner, it just is not done at the level of hair / hair color that I teach – and perform so when you go blond in my chair, you leave with your hair pH balanced – TONED- Conditioned and AWESOME. For all you Stylists out there, if you want to bring in and keep every single client that sits their pretty little butt in your chair….follow my lead. I promise you, people appreciate your passion for your work.
Yes, I do understand money constraints, but after watching people for 15 years give me that excuse and then walk in with a $400 Handbag, or their face newly frozen from BOTOX, I truly do not have much sympathy for peoples’ excuses for hair and their finances….so please don’t waste them on me.
People who are truly poor are not coloring their hair AT ALL. I find it fascinating that so many of you think I was born yesterday and you are pulling the wool over my eyes. NOPE , I’m laughing on this side when an excuse is given to me – I want you to know that. If you are involved on this site and ordering from KS, you are not that poor. You know how I know? I’ve been there. YES, I’ve had wealth and riches…..but I have also had a dirt poor and impoverished life at an older age, as well.….having both teaches you a lot about life. I never seem to do anything small. . . .its always big. I was poor in a big way. I know what you think about when money is a issue……..and it is not YOUR HAIR.
So – back to Toners….and what they are all about ? ? Killer2653 …there is no easier color to put on in the world. IT DOES NOT STAIN the hands, so NO GLOVES….. They are a wonderful easy-to-apply consistency, so its a joy to put on. . . . and most of the times you will get 2 applications out of 1 tube. (Long (thick) hair needs a full tube). What’s not to like about them? Only 1 thing…
THEY DON’T LAST AS LONG AS WE WISH THEY DID!
But they are working on that ( SO AM I ! !) Watch for my tips….Killer2609
Now in today’s Post, I will run 2 of my to 7 lines of Toners by you.Toners that will kill any remaining brass/yellow/gold and give your hair that amazing Beige-Blond of a Reece Witherspoon – Gwen Stefani blond.
I have used all of these since Academy. My mentor taught me to make the TONER, my best friend, and I did. It has paid off well, I promise.
Copy of killercutscolors204
I’m going to start with all the Color Touch Toners ( a LOT) and the MATRIX Toners, one that I named “marilyn” a very long time ago . . . as I feel on many people it gives you the blond of Monroe. Now remember with Toners, it depends on what you are putting it on. Toners are OPAQUE. Think of a NYLON you are putting on a leg, that is toned with beige color….you can still see the leg and its color, but it now has a beige ‘cast’ to it, doesn’t it ? ? Now if you were to take that exact same leg with the same tone and apply a Black toner…..it would appear Gray-ish,wouldn’t it ? ? ? Why? Because the Leg was Beige (virtually an off-white) mixed with Black equals Gray. That is how Toners work – they are transparent/opaque. They always use either a 5-6-10 or 15 Volume Developer.Killer2470
Matrix has a line called COLOR SYNC. These are the same toners I have been using for 15 years - - they just gave them a new box – a new name but thank the Lord they left the formula alone, except for adding CERAMIDES, whenever you see CERAMIDES, just know its a VERY VERY GOOD ingredient for hair.
3 MATRIX -- COLOR SYNC TONERS -- SHEER PASTELS – Demi-Permanent Toners
  • SPV..SHEER PASTEL VIOLET: my number 1, if you are confused just use this one you can’t go wrong. Its Sheer/ has violet to ‘counter’ any brass/ yellow/ gold …..leaves hair well balanced.
  • SPN…SHEER PASTEL NEUTRAL : Excellent neutral looking for that blonde BEIGE…so popular now.82721148
  • SPA … SHEER PASTEL ASH : Another Ash to counter those DURP’s so many of you have..
  • GWEN / MARILYN … is a mixture of SPV + SPN , the ratio ? 1:1 – which means 1 oz. of SPV + 1oz of SPN : MIX = Add 2 oz. of 10 or 13 Volumegwen96
ALL 3 of these I use constantly/daily… When you are a Top Colorist, information like this (which toners I used to produce such Killer BLONDS) were kept very TIGHT LIPPED – as everyone does….its just part of the game.
Killer2429
I never told anyone this info. I even confused my assistants on purpose, the last thing you want to do is give 4 brand new up and coming Hair Stylists all your secrets that have taken you years to gather. Lucky all of you . . . I don’t know one Stylist of my caliber that would do this. So please, treasure the information. I am an overachiever, a passionate artist who gives this information with the hope that many of you will use it to better your hair color - - better the hair color knowledge you use at your Salon.
One of my goals way back when …..I was in Academy . . . my girlfriend and I said ( naively – VERY naively) , “hey, lets cure all the bad color/ bad hair in the USA”……. we shook on it, we were very excited about that prospect…..I recall that moment all the time while writing this BLOG. Snicker at the thought of it.
Killer2489Bleach/tone
I mean I used to try to cure all the bad hair I could I was much more lenient with so many of my tricks and education once I got into the Salon world than any other Stylist.
The Salon world and the Academy world are completely DIFFERENT WORLDS! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
But to think I could actually cure all the bad color/bad hair of America myself, was just so insanely naive. Who knew I would end up ill, that I would be forced into quitting the job I had plans of going to the top in.
But, the funny part is……………………………
I would never have reached as many people as I do through this Blog, our Group ( closing in on 2000 ) and the STORE . . .working any other way. !!! FUNNY HOW LIFE GOES………
This is the way I will reach the most people and hopefully do the most good. . . and who would’ have figured that one out ! !Killer2555Level 9
Back to Toners and the importance of them…. many of you slough them off, I hope to inspire some to try them, I have never tinted a blond without using a toner. I would feel like I hadn’t finished the job…I was lucky and had assistants to help and they would all fight over who got to apply the toners (!!), so that end of the procedure was covered for me. I always applied the color to my clients ( yet the Assistants would mix to my spec’s - - and then comb through – add the plastic cap and rinse after I checked it,….. right when I was forced to quit… I had finally built a well-oiled machine, it was just such a shame to losKiller2481LEVEL 8
The next Set of Toners I would suggest:
Color Touch has the most TONERS for 1 Single Line:
  • 8/0 N ….….. Turns out a level 7 because of the Wella chart,being a full level darker than ours
  • 9/0 N ….…...A Level 8 Neutral Toner
  • 10/0N ….…. Equals Level 9 Neutral always use 6 Volume
  • 9/01NA….… Natural Ash = an 8
  • 10/01NA ….. Natural Ash = gorgeous level 9, now with the CT Toners many times I will mix 1/2 6Volume & 1/2 13Volume which gives you about a 10 – lasts longer SPECIFY if you want….1/2 & 1/2 Volume
  • 10/1A…….. Lightest Blonde Ash
  • 9/16AV…….ASH VIOLET - a level 8 excellent
  • 10/81PA…..Pearl Ash – again equals a level 9
  • 10/6 V……..Lightest Blond/Violet – Awesome level 9
  • 10/73BG…..lightest blond/brown gold – watch that gold although this is as “gold” as I recommend
  • RELIGHTS
  • /86 PV……..Pearl Violet – another perfect color and is MADE to be a toner….
all the colors are visible on the Wella Color Touch Page in the Store, just click on this link
Killer2567
Killer2573Killer2579
I apologize to those of you that are not blonds, but truthfully we sell blonds 20 to 1 in any other colors…..its funny BLACK is the number 1 hair color in the world but you would not know it by our numbers.!
Always – always consider using a toner, no matter what your color. . .I can’t wait to teach you some of the SECRET-SPY TONERS. . . . a LA KC
Killer2576Level 9/16AV
Killer
Chemist

9 comments:

  1. Hi,
    Do you know you read your follower's minds? Loved your recent posts on Wella Koleston Hi-Lifts and am thrilled to see post on toners. You are more than kind and generous to share your wealth of knowledge and experience. Your mix of professionalism, artistry, chemistry and technique is simply amazing!

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  2. I went and read that post and your reply in the KS group, and your little hissy fit actually drove home the point for me that highlift is a color - and COLOR doesn't always give the results you want if you're shooting for blond. I totally get it now and also realize that with level 7/8 hair, I'm borderline, although I think I can achieve light enough blond using a highlift vs bleach (since level 10/11 is my goal). Still I'm doing a strand test to see. I also know that I've been missing so much information on how to lighten my own hair. Missing TONER for one thing. Never even considered that I might need one, and not a clue why I would. I'm looking forward to more blogs on that subject - totally new info for me at least. I have to say that since reading the KS websites, I am really looking at women's hair closely everywhere I go, and a gorgeous shade of healthy, colored hair is really something to admire. There really is a huge difference between shiny, professional looking color and a brassy, blotchy, half-grown-out mess. I feel confident that with what I've learned here so far, I can do simple color techniques myself and have them turn out fabulous - quite possibly better than if I paid someone. I mean, I was doing a respectable job with boxed bleach. But with pro products available through the KS store, and the information on using them . . . I AM amazed at the information you share. Thank you for that.

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  3. Lily,
    Wow Girl, thank you - - - you are too kind, and your lovely comment makes me all warm and happy.

    Why not share my education ??? I get asked about that a lot.
    I mean isn't the joy in life to give-back ??? As you get older, things like that become more important, and all the other stuff is just a 'side-show'..I'm discovering.

    again many thanks,
    KC

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  4. Kim,
    YES -YES - YES, High-lift is a just one more color. I am going to write about that little point, as I can see I have missed a few points.
    Good thing I'm not so good at this 'writing thing' or I might get it all said in one post and then where would be?
    We would be done and everyone could go home ;-))
    I love doing things that have never been done, I hold a few women records as a pro-athlete of things never accomplished before ........when I was debating doing this...it took me a while to go forward because I was sure it would have every hair stylist in the country hating me (and that is a helluva lot of people ). I wanted to be sure I was going to be OK with that.
    It was the one and only thing holding me back.
    But the more I searched for what was ON the web for hair...the more I was convinced people needed to hear what I had to say...and even though while starting a movement that put pressure on all shampoo makers to make SLS-FREE shampoo and to watch what they put in their shampoos from now on .. that hopefully they get over the shock of what I am saying and realize I'm not going anywhere ( as long as all of - "YOU" - keep backing me up!! thank God).......

    Keep reading - keep experimenting .
    We have a brand new product, for blonds I am super excited about its BBBBBBBBrand NEW.........

    WWWAIT FOR IT...............................

    THANKS, Girl,
    KC

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  5. Wow. I think the lights have just gone on for me... So now it's 'tint and tone' as well as bleach and tone?. Now I get it...!! That stubborn stubborn DURP is why we don't get the blonde of our dreams by just applying color.. so we need to follow up and tone it...! What works on head A does not work on head B... Do I have this right? Are there some heads that have to tone no matter what color they use just because their DURP will not give up the ghost?? You could use an ash hi lift and still not knock out enough brass, so follow up with toner!

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  6. Thank you so much for posting this right now! :) I feel as though I (along with a lot of other women) want to go back to blond as the weather heats up and the summer is approaching, but it's so much more difficult than going darker in the winter. Bleach IS a little scary because no one wants to accidentally fry their hair & I'm a little mad right now at all the stylists who have "given" me the option of a toner for an extra $40 over the years. They should've said "no, it comes with the treatment." These tips look EASY and FUN so I'm very excited about strand-testing 2 or 3 different toners to see which one I like. My instinct is to mix 2 of them but we'll see. Also, great job about touching on the economical aspects of being blond. It DEFINITELY takes more $$ to maintain. You are wonderful for doing this blog. Just wonderful. Thank you again!

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  7. Love this new post KC! Thank you for always giving us such great info. I am always looking forward to new posts and love learning about hair.

    I had no idea we could mix CT developers together. I feel pretty confident now with toners, so I'm thinking about trying that. When you said this:

    "10/01NA ….. Natural Ash = gorgeous level 9, now with the CT Toners many times I will mix 1/2 6Volume & 1/2 13Volume which gives you about a 10 – lasts longer SPECIFY if you want….1/2 & 1/2 Volume"

    Do you mean that gives you a LEVEL 10? And do you mean it makes the toner last longer on your hair through shampoos,etc.? I would LOVE to learn how to make my CT 10/81 + 10/6 mix (that I just LOVE, thank you!) last longer. You are so right, that is the only problem with toners. They are SO beautiful the first week or so, and then they fade off, and I go as many days as possible not to wash my hair to try to keep that PERFECT color. That is the one main thing I want to learn. The Pravana shampoo helps, but nothing compared to a head of hair that has just been beautifully TONED ;-)
    Thanks KC!
    -Samantha

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  8. hi KC
    how often can you apply toner to bleached/highlighted hair without risking more damage? And what's the lowest volume of peroxide you can use that still provides results?

    My stylist highlighted/lifted my hair with Paul mitchell bleach and 25 volume, and toned it with Paul Mitchell's Shine (PM Shine).
    i don't know HOW 25 volume lifted my natural level 2-3 roots light enough to then tone to a level 8-9 BEAUTIFUL beige blonde, but it did. i watched her mix it -i also had her add some aragon oil to the mixture.

    my hair is still toned, i just got it done last week, but just wanted to know how often one can tone/maintain w/o damage?
    thanks!

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  9. What about counteracting a green tone in blond? I don't see a red base.

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