Black Hair / Black Friday / Black Brush

Great Solution to FIA ( Flat Iron Addiction)

The holidays got in the way of 2 stories I have been wanting to share with you. It rarely happens that I will be excited about a new product for hair, but it happened twice in one week. I ended up trying both of those products on myself and loved both even more - - - even more rare.
In my never-ending quest to abolish use of the Flat Iron, I bought a new fangled brush thing-a-ma-gig from one of my Hair Reps. The photo of it looked like a killer concept, but I never expected it to work as well as it did. From the example of clients of all hair types whose rear-ends were in my chair, I have learned slowly but surely that the flat Iron is just not a great hair tool and it truthfully creates more problems than it fixes over time. I have nothing against any product that will make your hair look better (which is what I said when hair extensions first appeared for the public), but that product …no matter what it is…{I feel} …must not destroy the hair in the process. What I have noticed with the gradual over-use of flat irons is that while it does smooth the cuticle at the beginning of a clients ownership over time the continued use and over-use of these irons takes the hair into the “burned or frazzled” stage which causes even more frizz and is very difficult to recover from without cutting it off. I ask if they have been using a silicone serum and while silicone is the one and only product that truly protects hair from heat – it is by no means a total solution to the heat of two flat plates at 250 degrees smashed together on the hair strands….I hope I have not misled you on that one, to me its common sense.
When people would come to me for the 10,000 Heads Regimen, which usually meant they had trashed their hair beyond recognition – and I put them on a strict “diet” of all the things that got them there – many times just taking away the Flat Iron, would solve 50% of their problems. That’s a LOT, especially when you consider that there are 14 Steps ( and over the years there has always been over 10) It finally got me thinking…what would happen if just the Flat Iron was subtracted from peoples regimen ? ? You see, I realize the Flat Iron is a fairly new tool to many of you . . . but I had one when I was in Hair Academy and that was 16 years ago…so my clients have ALWAYS had flat irons …I wasn’t doing hair when they didn’t exist.
My assistants would take names/photos of volunteers for a 90 day Flat Iron Challenge from my clients about 1/2 way thru. They would receive one free hair color if they participated, with a lot of college kids from Pepperdine…. I had many volunteers. Well, the results were mind boggling – none of us could believe the difference. What we figured out was, that the temperatures of the irons kept going up & up each year as the companies that made them would listen to customers requests. Of course, the customers loved the concept and loved the Irons ( At the time so did I) – but thought if they worked so well, why not make them go hotter and hotter. For the first 10 years all Flat Irons were black and were only 1 temperature – super Hot. In the last 6-7 they have gotten all tricky…leopard, zebra - print, multiple temps., ceramic plates, tourmaline, ionic - - BIONIC…I mean its gone ape-shit-crazy!

Around Halloween I spotted this funny looking brush… bought one – & its been sitting around here for month. Finally this past week my one client is having a helluva time with the condition of her hair lately… showed up and with the crown of her hair just trashed. She is a long time client – we’ve had her hair in terrific shape and in poor shape, just depends on her styling regimen, her Thriven, Gleam, Secret Supplement use ( she is off of that now – which is a big mistake) but after the color and cut is complete is the time when I finally can tell exactly where her hair stood, she was right…it was bad. Really bad, she was in the middle of “the change” and was complaining of her hair feeling like “old lady” hair. I agreed her hair had never felt like it did that day, and she had quit using the Flat Iron a long time ago. Unfortunately its just her age and it seems to happen to everyone once they reach their 50’s, just want you all to be prepared.

Well check out this little gem. Its a brilliant hair tool and the results were nothing short of spectacular and that is because of how brilliant the inventor of this is – its so simple but to me it completely solves many of the problems of the Flat Iron. The bristles are short and are very stiff so the tension on the hair can be pulled… it holds the hair very tightly so you are able to stretch the hair tightly while drying. Stretching is the perfect answer to drying kinky, curly or wavy hair.
There are vents to let the air from the blow dryer THROUGH the hair strands , so the heat has a place to escape from…
Denman Thermoceramic Straightening Brush provides a fast and simple way to straighten all types of medium to long hair during blow-drying.
Features and Benefits:

• Thermo-ceramic plates with vented design allow warm air to circulate more freely for fast blow-drying performance
• Adds condition and shine for a silky, lustrous finish
• Smoothes the cuticle, minimizing breakage and split ends
• Velvet-touch handle for added comfort during use
• Made with interlocking rows of pure natural boar bristle

Directions:
Wash hair with sulfate-free shampoo, towel dry. Use Ecoly detangler comb to gently smooth out any tangles. Set hairdryer to MEDIUM heat and start to blow-dry until hair is half-dry. Start from the nape of the neck and separate hair into sections. Clamp hair between bristles and gripping firmly, pull the bristles down the length of the hair section while directing warm air from the hairdryer. Repeat this process until all the hair sections have been straightened. Apply gloss serum or mist with shining spray for extra shine.
One of the most interesting results one gets from this brush is from twisting and turning it as well… the volume it creates, both at the root as well as through the lengths. I mean this little, very well priced brush, made this woman's hair look like it was 20 year old hair, I was just so impressed. The reason? the way it made it easy to ‘stretch’ it changed the coarseness of her hair as it will yours.
Its just the smartest, cutest and well priced little styling tool I have come across in a very long time. You must try one – click right on over to the Killer Strands Store http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/ and check it out, you may request a sample of the FLUFF with your order as well ( a small batch has been made)
Killer Chemist

Color Me Dark: Hair Shades from Burnt Toffee to Raven Black

There’s a Shade to Suit You

 



Level 9 & 10 Drips on a level 3 Violet Brown –DEElicious



Happy Thanksgiving Boys and Girls
I am forever Thankful for the sweet and wonderful people I have met through this adventure known as Killer Strands Hair Clinic.
Peace

LOVE

and Harmony
KillER CHEMIST

Homeward Bound.

The Incredible Hair Journey

 

I apologize immensely for not writing any new posts for quite a while…my little terror on the home front is now over. Just this evening my girlfriend and I were reviewing the Identity Theft I just lived through ( I don’t know how). She made me see the positive side of it and she is right, usually I am the one pointing this out to her. So, you see even that was a new learning experience.

I give thanks to her, to Andre, to my new employees and to all of you for finding patience to put up with this small hiccup.

I have 2 posts, half written . . . and the first will post tomorrow. 1 on a new and improved WELLA hair color that I used both yesterday and today with amazing - - no, I take that back, AWESOME results. I can’t wait to share them with you + they are for darker hair, something I must try to work on supplying more of.

I performed a fantastic new color and found the most killer new hair “tool”….I can’t wait to show you and tell you about it – I’m not exaggerating  +  it is the most exciting new tool to come along in years and its under $20.00! Yee Haw!

Again, many thanks   KC

#3 Questions When Answered, Will Solve Your Hair Color Woes

Hair Color At The Highest Level is Much Simpler Than it Appears

Who knows why, but I make my job and writing these Posts much harder than they need to be. As a Top Colorist you get stories of how your clients got to where they are... that at times can be so long, I cannot believe it is one person. Truly, they are mind bending. I know you all think that how you got there will help us, but here is the absolute truth : all of that doesn't matter. It doesn't matter that you went from boxed color to Sally's and around the corner to the best Salon in your city... and you have spent thousands of dollars and hours of time - - and your hair is horrendous. It simply : DOESN'T MATTER, however meaningful to you. Isn't your goal : better hair color, truly?
Ouch, did I hurt anyone's feelings?
Boy I hope not, that is not the point. What I hope to do is to clean up the Home hair coloring world so the stigma's are gone. . . the truth is told and the Salon experience for those that choose that method is understood. There is something that comes from being raised in California {don't worry I know you all think we are nuts...and bonkers} - a freedom, a 'who-gives-a-shit' lifestyle, a healthy yet -- many times NOT so healthy existence in a world gone mad. Hardly seems worth it sometimes, especially if the planet is as doomed as we keep hearing. But anyway . . . see how I too, can get side-tracked. Which is what I am trying to teach you NOT TO DO. Stay on point, when speaking to me or yourself, the Group about your hair color dealings. If you do that one thing it will get you an answer on how to fix your mop. How great would that be?

THE POINT HERE IS SIMPLICITY when dealing with trying to straighten your hair color out, which is why so many of you happen upon our little struggling BLOG/GROUP & STORE. The reason I want to teach you this? IS to get you the answer you ultimately want - - only faster.
Drop the long stories, drop the lengthy-ass history . . . and "cut-to-the- chase" ( my personal favorite line ) and you know why ? ? You will get a better, more cared-for, more efficient answer to your puzzlement about your hair Color problems.
When I was training a very long time ago... she would give me a line-up of 15-20 clients.... I would have 15 minutes to go down the line and come up with the heads of hair "FORMULA's for all the clients. Now if each one had a long drawn out story . . . we would still be there. That is not how Sassoon works, they are a Hair Color BOOT CAMP, that's what I called them as I never quite had an experience like that before and I truly felt like I was in Boot Camp of some sort. The only information I could have would be the answer to 3 questions and 3 sentences written by the client and that was it. The 3/3 Method of Hair Color Formulation I would later teach all my assistants.
You would be surprised how that is all we needed. . . many times I got to the point of not needing the 3 sentences. But when I moved from the Academy setting to the Salon I gave every single client that sit in my chair a Questionnaire prior to me ever laying my hands on them.
That is what I want you all to work on, when you come to the group and ask questions. . . or in any future Consultations I conduct. There is one key word in each sentence...can you tell us what that word is? Please enter in the Comments section below.
The 3 Questions
1.) What is your virgin Level and Tone ? __________L _________T
2.) What is your present Level & Tone? __________L _________T
3.) What is your desired Level & Tone? __________L _________T

Now those 3 sentences . . . what would YOU choose to tell a top Colorist, if you could. If you were in this situation? For so many of you with Color issues, can you shorten your story down. I would hope that by hearing that this is not as complicated as so many of you think . . . that maybe you will take the plunge and give home hair coloring a shot. Its really not that hard, its really a very simple hobby. As with all things complicated in your life - research and study . . . I have 2 years of POSTS - right here in front of your face.
I have opened up the stigma of the Hair Color world for you to learn, and you know what I know for sure....??? Is that it works, I have hundreds of Crib Colorists that have taken the time, to read through the entire Blog and they are all successfully coloring their hair at home. No, you will not learn it all in a night.... not even 2 nights. Its not hard - - but is not just a 20-30 minute read either.
Anything good, does not come easy . . .

if I have learned one thing in life - is that 1 sentence is true. I don't believe there are any free-rides. You want to home hair color your hair and have it look like Gwen Stefani's or Gisele's. . . first you need to learn to "lower your standards" to who is exactly standing in front of you when you are in front of that mirror. Look at the "type" of hair you have, then IF you would like to have a celebrities hair, which can very successfully be done at home - be sure you pick a celeb's hair that is similar to your your type. Do they have the same texture? Do they have the same type of hair YOU have. If not, get over it - - and move on till you find one that does. There seems to be more celebrities than people now a days - its pretty ridiculous.

I am enjoying learning what a wonderful knowledge base Killer Strands has born... so many of our members can spout off Levels,Tones and procedures in the Group and wow it makes me proud of all of you that have taken the time to read what was very difficult for me to write. I now know why people 'teach' . It can be very rewarding ... what a wonderful warm feeling to see and hear a group of people spout off some of your very own verbiage, teachings, etc. It is just inspiring to me. . .truly inspiring.

Remember my number one recommendation if you are an old member a new member. . . or just a member. Start at the beginning and read forward. . .go a week at a time - if you can't handle anymore. Read the entire Blog, that one suggestion has retrieved the most compliments . So there is your project for the week. . . set goals, even with your hair, get it in the best shape it has ever been. Have day after day of GOOD HAIR DAYS.... it's not that hard, I promise.

Congratulations Cheyenne Marie - You Make Me Proud

Seen by tens of millions

I rarely bring up my private life, but I am just so proud of my oldest daughter I wanted to "tell the world!"
She has worked her butt off in a career she had no help with, what so ever. . . In our particular family dynamic, that is hard to do. . . she is a Photographer and her shot made the cover of PEOPLE magazine. That is huge for her and her career.

What a darling little girl and a beautiful family.
Nope its not hair related at all today . . .  just wanted to show off my daughter, Cheyenne Marie.
I love you and as always, am so proud of you, Mom

http://www.cheyenneellis.com

Hair Color Magic ...the Smoke & Mirrors We Use to Give The Illusion Of Magic

How exactly does the "Lift & Deposit" chemical reaction in permanent hair color work?

A question was posed on the previous Post about this, which I felt warranted its own POST. Good question =(equals) Post is kind of how it works here in the Killer Strands Land of Hair Care.
All permanent hair coloring works the same. Which I would like you all to understand, especially in the ongoing debate of "Professional Hair Color versus 'Public' Hair Color" and the difference between them. Some of the licensed Hair Stylists want you to believe there is a huge difference in the products you can purchase at Sally's and the ones "we" licensed ... Board certified Professionals purchase. Now, available in the Killer Strands Store. 

Just so you know, as I was readying to launch the new Killer Strands store, the Publicity Release went out announcing that Wella would be soon selling their professional color to the public, the same way they do in every other country in the world.
They like you to believe that, you ...the public, don't have the talent or education to use Professional hair color, that it takes a year of schooling to be able to use it properly.
Well, you should know me by now... and I, of course, would like to blow the top off of that stupid theory. . . I would make a 'conservative' guess that 80 %-90% of all Cosmetology students are not even taught practical hair color education when they go to school ... you know what they teach them? How to pass the State Board Tests, in order to get your license. Which to me and to the Vidal Sassoon Academy's --> is TOTALLY ridiculous. State Board Tests are so antiquated, they test for your ability to perform finger waving 'speed' and roller setting swiftness as if that is how we all wear our hair on a daily basis. I am not kidding, it is completely and utterly ridiculous the testing they put you through to have a license here in the state of California, and am told California is the hardest 'Board' test in the union {and you wonder why the last cut/color you got was horrific}.


Vidal Sassoon where I attended, did not teach passing the state board Test (you were left to your own devices to figure that out) they taught Hair Color Theory ...Hair color application, Hair Color Formulation, Hair cutting theory & Hair cutting practice....there is a reason it is referred to as the "Harvard of Hair Schools" -- it truly deserves it. But...such a very small percentage of the millions of Hair Stylists out there have attended either of the 2 schools (1 in LA & 1 in London - period)- - it leaves the majority of Cosmetologists ; untrained and left to their own devices to learn on poor unsuspecting clients. Yes, that is where they learn - - - on YOU. When I finally figured that out, I was terrified for the 'client'. What the solution to this is - - - is finally surfacing, various Hair Color Companies are starting their own "specialty" Hair Academy's. I have heard Aveda, Paul Mitchell & now Redken are the first with sporadic academies popping up around the country. The smart companies are hiring 'ex' Sassoon-heads to build their schools around and to know "how" - "what" and "where" to do this successfully. No one will ever have the brilliance and finesse of a Sassoon Academy....until you have been engrossed in one - - you won't know what you are missing. It was one of the smarter moves I've ever made...it truly has stayed ingrained in me for the


last 16 years.
 
Since viewing the problems of unqualified Stylists, from different angles, I try to remain semi - compassionate to all sides of the story -- but its hard. I'm so driven, that I will go to any lengths to get the proper training I need for a certain purpose, I don't understand why everyone can't be that way. Alas, it just is not always possible for everyone to have the fortunate situation I had, in growing up 30 miles from the 1 Vidal Sassoon Academy in America.
But, there are books, there are tapes, there are DVD's - Videos, U-TUBE - - there are always, some form of advanced hair education going on all over the country. . . ALWAYS. Use it, invest in yourself & your talent, it will pay you back, I promise...having a full book of clients is a wonderful thing.

The difference between Professional Hair Color & "public" Hair Color (for lack of a better word) ......is ......"quality" yep, that's it. Which is why when you get your hair done by a professional - - you wonder...." why, does it not look this good when I do it myself" ? ? Its the quality of pigments in that tube of color,the quality of ingredients that provide both SHINE & Vivid color, its the quality of Developer - that I even call "premium" Developer that is different. Remember there is no other time that the hair cuticle is open; allowing lipids, and conditioners of all types to get into the strand of hair, than with the Permanent Hair Color process. But, the actual "process of how" they both work ("professional" and "public" hair color) is exactly the same.
There is no reason on this planet that if you understand both the:

• Level System of Hair Color and
• Color Theory (related to Hair)

you cannot color your hair with professional hair color - at home - successfully. There is no secret, there is no trick, no talent we learn as Licensed hair Stylists that you don't have access to. I just want that to be CRYSTAL CLEAR to everyone, because it is not fair that the people at home are not allowed to have access to better quality hair color. So many of the stories I hear are " I have tried every hair stylist in my town and every single one has destroyed my hair" - I want to take back control of my own hair color and learn how to do it myself.

You know what my argument is when a licensed hair stylist starts to get in my face about this? I say: at least I teach the Level System and Color Theory - in going to Sally's they can buy anything without teaching them a thing, and 9 times out of 10 point them in the wrong direction. Hundreds of millions of women/men go to Sally's Beauty Supply every single week and they are mis-guided by uneducated, uncaring individuals that CAUSE most of the Color Correction cases we Colorists see on a weekly basis. Both, Sally's & Boxed Hair Color Kits are the 2 main "causes" of most Hair Color Disasters across the USA. Its an eye opening experience to have a hair Blog and Group such that I have, the privilege of owning these has opened my eyes to what is going on nationwide ... not just here in my little corner of the country. Once people started writing in to me from every state, I realized the problem was a whole Helluva lot bigger than I ever realized. Someone needs to help all these people have some decent education on how to properly care for their hairs health and their hair color.
Its not a matter of the education not being there, its a matter of the 'wall' put up between Hair Stylist and Hair Client. With the Stylist acting like they have some "other worldly" powers over hair, that they are keeping secret...and will disperse a little bit at a time, but only if you keep coming back to them as a good client should... I cannot say it loud enough: R-I-D-I-C-U-L-O-U-S .
Of course, I don't mean every Stylist...but just today on one of the most recent "comments" a new reader left, here is the Comment:

Hi! 
My hairstylist uses low "natural enzymes" in the place of developer, but she refuses to tell me anything more about it, or where to find it. Go figure... She also says that she uses color with low ammonia to color my hair.
My hair is super-soft and almost damage free and I was wondering if you know anything about these enzymes?
here is my answer:
anonymous, Nope, have no idea what she is referring to. I can honestly say out of 10,000 Heads of Hair I have worked on ... 95% of them had super-soft and damage-free hair.
Hair Color (done correctly) can be a wonderful thing and creates absolutely NO damage to hair. I have said over and over that the way hair color works in todays upper echelon is to:
>> strengthen
>> add body and the best trait of all:
>> it adds tons of shine
I don't believe she used any special "enzymes" to color your hair, I believe it is one more hair stylist perpetuating the unnecessary wall & shut down of communication that has gone up between hair stylist and client, that besides being absolutely ridiculous is just one more show of the paranoid insecurities that most hair stylists possess. You most likely have great hair to begin with...
& she enriches it with a top hair color.... that is not a tough task.
In my world that is the "norm", not the rarity that many of you think.
I have been working on a post trying to explain to people if a color "claims" it has no ammonia, then it uses a substitute ingredient that does the exact same thing as ammonia.
So why does that make it a better hair color to you?
When it still does the exact same thing?
MAKES ZERO SENSE.
All permanent hair color uses the exact SAME TECHNOLOGY....there is no NEW technology for COLORING HAIR.
When there is, I promise I will announce it here.
KC

Now, the shine, the vividness, the pigment are all better with professional hair color. The technology is absolutely NO DIFFERENT. There is not one thing different we do as professional's. What we have is more experience on working on all types of hair....you - - you have experience with your own head of hair and maybe your sisters or best friends. But not on all types and textures of hair...which still doesn't make us an expert. I never feel like I have learned everything about hair color, nor will I ever. The best part about doing your own hair color is just that....its your own, you are experienced with all of its little traits, and flaws. I can ask hair color clients if their hair -- "takes" color well or not. 8 out 10 will know the answer to that question, which tells a colorist a LOT about your hair. That is the porosity of your hair and that little piece of information can save you from having a color disaster, if you are new to learning hair color.
Now the way permanent hair color works. Permanent hair color has 2 aspects:

• lightening/lifting and
• penetrating/depositing

Lightening comes from 2 key ingredients:

• ammonia ( or other catalyst) : in the cream
• hydrogen peroxide: in the developer

Ammonia is a critical ingredient in permanent hair color. Permanent Hair Color ALWAYS contains ammonia (or another catalyst that does the exact same thing) {remember this point}. The issue with 'ammonia' is the same issue as 'preservatives'... too much of it is unnecessarily damaging, but without ammonia, penetration, lightening and dye development would not occur. It, or something like it, is essential. Manufacturers of professional products strive to put just enough--- and not too much---ammonia-- in their permanent hair color.
Now if a hair color says its "ammonia-free" then it will have an ammonia substitute. Therefore, if it has an ammonia substitute, which does the exact same thing, then all it is doing is tricking the consumer. Get it? Its still doing the exact same thing only with a different ingredient ( MEA; monoethanolamine is the one I know of, there are others).
Ammonia is an alkali: it swells the hair shaft, promoting penetration. It is also a catalyst and its primary purpose: to facilitate lightening by releasing oxygen, supplied by the developer, to OXIDIZE natural pigment. Ammonia, creates the necessary alkalinity for the development of permanent dyes; permanent haircoloring is always alkaline in pH.
Ammonia is not in the developer which so many people think, it is in the tube of hair color with the dyes. Lighter levels contain more ammonia than darker levels, in order to provide more lightening capability. Many of you have only dealt with 1 color range, but as a professional we deal with every range....clients range from level 1 to 12, which we may be dealing with in the same hour as clients come in all sizes and colors.
The higher the level , the more ammonia (lift) and the less pigment (deposit). The lower the level, the less lift and the greater the deposit. That's why a medium blond will cover gray better than a very light blond. It is also why a medium brown will not lift as many levels as a high-lift tint.

High-Lift colors contain the most ammonia, to have the most aggressive and extended lift cycles. That much ammonia in darker levels , however would be overkill. Ammonia is calibrated by levels in all professional products.
Another critical component of permanent hair coloring is hydrogen peroxide. The developers for permanent hair coloring products, (whether clear or cream) are hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen Peroxide is the oxidizer of permanent hair coloring, providing the oxygen for lightening of natural pigment, and for the development of artificial pigment. Permanent hair coloring is sometimes referred to as oxidative haircoloring. 

It is the hydrogen peroxide mixed with poorly formulated hair color in permanent hair coloring -- not the ammonia -- that causes oxidative hair damage and that ONLY happens when the Rules of the Level System are not followed. Otherwise you can have happy healthy hair - I promise you!

Top Colorists are aware of the damage created by excessively high developer volumes and use only that which is necessary.

The chemical shorthand for hydrogen peroxide is H2 O2 meaning 2 hydrogen atoms and 2 oxygen atoms. Higher volumes of hydrogen peroxide provide more oxygen for more extended lightening. Higher volumes create more lift and less deposit; lower volumes create less lift and greater deposit. This is why better gray coverage is achieved with 20 Volume rather than 40 volume.
 
Some strength of hydrogen peroxide has to be used in order to develop the dyes of permanent haircoloring. Just to get the 'dyes' to color the hair, an oxidizer has to be present. ( and peroxide all by itself won't lighten the hair, either - sometimes an email comes in with someone trying this....and I want to cringe...it needs to react with ammonia in order for efficient oxidation to occur.) peroxide,ammonia and the dyes all need each other to get the hair coloring to work properly and to its fullest.

When people start quoting these silly sayings like " no ammonia" or "low ammonia" hair color... I just quietly look at them and think......" you will be right back in to see me fix the mess you are going to make of your hair". Because they have no idea what "low ammonia" means ... I will ask them , " what does ammonia do to hair color ??? " Not one of them ever knows, in 16 years I have never once run into a 1 person that can answer that question. I just completely explained what ammonia does in the hair color process, just a few paragraphs up - the concept is difficult to understand I feel it took me a long time to really GET IT! 

 ? ? ? So if you don't know what ammonia does, why are you trying to eliminate it ? ? ? 

How do you know its bad? 

Personally if a hair color says anything about having "Low ammonia or No ammonia in it. . . I just turn and walk away, why? ? ? because I know how necessary it is for a perfect .... beautiful  ....head of hair color. 


In order for permanent hair color to work properly, it is a chemical reaction and ammonia is needed for the chemical reaction to take place properly. I have found that every single person that sits in my chair does not really care how it gets there . . . but what they want is a rich - - - gorgeous - - - vivid - - - - shiny - - - properly toned KNOCKOUT head of hair with Hair Color to match. As long as their hair is as healthy and as luxurious as I can possibly make it . . the ingredients I use to get it there are going to be the Top-of-the-Line for what I need to make that process take place. I doubt there is a person on the planet that wants orange or yellow hair, because their hair color says "no ammonia" on the box or tube. When hair reaches the proper color, the most beautiful wheat blond or the most yummy Matt (non-brassy) blond you have ever see then NO REPAIR has to take place - which adds to the processes the hair has to endure. Think about everything you are saying or thinking before pronouncing the big plans you may have for your hair. . .
Sit back and relax, I care for my clients hair as if it were my own or my childrens . . I now give all of that to you - - - as a gift.

KillerStrands the Blog ...........you are here
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Nobody Puts Baby In the Corner . . . . Rest In Peace Patrick Swayze

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The NEW trends 

Translated

The Gold Standard of Hair Color : Permanent Hair Color

King of the Hill Killer Color

 
The fourth and most important color service is permanent hair color (tint) often referred to as single-process haircoloring.
Oxidative color, henna, metallic & compound dyes and bleach are all considered  Permanent Haircolor.  Permanent haircoloring products are designed to permanently alter the natural pigmentation of hair.

The primary defining characteristic of Permanent Haircolor is that it is able to lighten natural pigment. Ammonia or another lightening catalyst in the dye-bearing cream...combines with hydrogen peroxide in the developer to lighten natural pigment. Poof, the change is permanent!
Although the permanent penetrating tints ( known as single - processing color) involve both subtraction of the hair's natural pigment and addition of synthetic pigment. This is the hair color that is the most versatile yet it is the one that puzzles KillerStranders the most. Its a weird process if you think about it - what do you mean it lifts the color and then deposits color - at the exact same time ? ? ? ? Well, that is a very simplified explanation of what & how the permanent hair color process works.  It penetrates the cortex of the hair and becomes "locked" in through a process called oxidation. Permanent means the color forever alters the texture of the hair, causing it to SWELL - which is why I like this category of hair color the best. With hair texture swollen, it gives hair the "feel" of more VOLUME and therefore more BODY. I'm fairly certain most people welcome the 'feel' of more Volume & Body in the hair. This makes the fact that the altering of the hairs texture "permanent" a plus yet everyone needs to understand "permanent"  means exactly that - - - - - PERMANENT.
I would guess that even though a Boxed Hair Color, that both advertises and sells their product to be semi or demi-permanent is truthfully : PERMANENT. If it lightens AT ALL, then it is permanent. There is no such thing as a DEMI--permanent Lightener -- and I can't tell you how many people have come to me with the story they bought a Demi permanent that was just supposed to lighten a little. Lightening a "little means you end up with Orange or Gold. Many of my Color Correction Stories stem from a hair color disaster caused because the person was misled by false advertising on the BOX of haircolor - thinking the color inside was a true Semi permanent - please --> everyone, remember this.
Permanent hair color is used to match, lighten and cover Gray hair, they generally contain ammonia, oxidative tint and peroxide. The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors, also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules. These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out. This is WHY these products are considered PERMANENT.

Now, permanent penetrating tints known as SINGLE-PROCESS Color involves both subtraction of the hairs natural pigment and addition of  synthetic pigment. This process happens simultaneously, which frankly amazes me and should you. Simply, when you are using that tint brush, and applying that permanent hair color the magical way the combination of the tint(color) with the Developer ( hydrogen peroxide) works is as follows:  at the very same time it LIFTS your hair color OUT of the strand and DEPOSITS the new hair color INTO the hair strand at the exact same time. It then closes the cortex of the hair and locks it in the hair strand, if that isn't magic - - I don't know what is .
If you are DEPOSITING you are adding(+). Therefore, when you both lighten and deposit color, you are doing both subtraction and addition. This type of coloring is the most popular but it is also the most difficult to perform correctly. That is what is so hard to explain to clients, as there are 2 complete chemical actions going on. A full understanding of the Level System is what will help permanent hair color and is mainly why it has been developed. The Level System works with the fact that permanent hair color both LIFTS and DEPOSITS at the same time so you can actually calculate your hair color using numbers.

Permanent hair color creates  a
real change in the hair color
& hair texture & always leaves a
regrowth line.

Permanent Hair color is used for:

• Changes existing hair color
• Covers Gray
• Creates bright or natural-looking
• Hair color changes

Learning Your Levels subliminally . . .

Something Wonderful is About to Happen to Your Hair...
Killer   Chemist