September 7, 2009

The Gold Standard of Hair Color : Permanent Hair Color

King of the Hill Killer Color

 level 11 - KKKKK
The fourth and most important color service is permanent hair color (tint) often referred to as single-process haircoloring.
Oxidative color, henna, metallic & compound dyes and bleach are all considered  Permanent Haircolor.  Permanent haircoloring products are designed to permanently alter the natural pigmentation of hair.

The primary defining characteristic of Permanent Haircolor is that it is able to lighten natural pigment. Ammonia or another lightening catalyst in the dye-bearing cream...combines with hydrogen peroxide in the developer to lighten natural pigment. Poof, the change is permanent!
Although the permanent penetrating tints ( known as single - processing color) involve both subtraction of the hair's natural pigment and addition of synthetic pigment. This is the hair color that is the most versatile yet it is the one that puzzles KillerStranders the most. Its a weird process if you think about it - what do you mean it lifts the color and then deposits color - at the exact same time ? ? ? ? Well, that is a very simplified explanatiolevel 8 blond 876n of what & how the permanent hair color process works.  It penetrates the cortex of the hair and becomes "locked" in through a process called oxidation. Permanent means the color forever alters the texture of the hair, causing it to SWELL - which is why I like this category of hair color the best. With hair texture swollen, it gives hair the "feel" of more VOLUME and therefore more BODY. I'm fairly certain most people welcome the 'feel' of more Volume & Body in the hair. This makes the fact that the altering of the hairs texture "permanent" a plus yet everyone needs to understand "permanent"  means exactly that - - - - - PERMANENT.
I would guess that even though a Boxed Hair Color, that both advertises and sells their product to be semi or demi-permanent is truthfully : PERMANENT. If it lightens AT ALL, then it is permanent. There is no such thing as a DEMI--permanent Lightener -- and I can't tell you how many people have come to me with the story they bought a Demi permanent that was just supposed to lighten a little. Lightening a "little means you end up with Orange or Gold. Many of my Color Correction Stories stem from a hair color disaster caused because the person was misled by false advertising on the BOX of haircolor - thinking the color inside was a true Semi permanent - please --> everyone, remember this.Level 2 -bb
Permanent hair color is used to match, lighten and cover Gray hair, they generally contain ammonia, oxidative tint and peroxide. The tint formula contains uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft. These dye precursors, also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules. These molecules are trapped within the cortex of the hair and cannot be shampooed out. This is WHY these products are considered PERMANENT.
level 7-gg
Now, permanent penetrating tints known as SINGLE-PROCESS Color involves both subtraction of the hairs natural pigment and addition of  synthetic pigment. This process happens simultaneously, which frankly amazes me and should you. Simply, when you are using that tint brush, and applying that permanent hair color the magical way the combination of the tint(color) with the Developer ( hydrogen peroxide) works is as follows:  at the very same time it LIFTS your hair color OUT of the strand and DEPOSITS the new hair color INTO the hair strand at the exact same time. It then closes the cortex of the hair and locks it in the hair strand, if that isn't magic - - I don't know what is .level 9-lt blonder7
If you are DEPOSITING you are adding(+). Therefore, when you both lighten and deposit color, you are doing both subtraction and addition. This type of coloring is the most popular but it is also the most difficult to perform correctly. That is what is so hard to explain to clients, as there are 2 complete chemical actions going on. A full understanding of the Level System is what will help permanent hair color and is mainly why it has been developed. The Level System works with the fact that permanent hair color both LIFTS and DEPOSITS at the same time so you can actually calculate your hair color using numbers.
level 4 -dd
Permanent hair color creates  a
real change in the hair color
& hair texture & always leaves a
regrowth line.

Permanent Hair color is used for:
  • Changes existing hair color
  • Covers Gray
  • Creates bright or natural-looking
  • Hair color changes
level 10 - JJj
Learning Your Levels subliminally . . .

Something Wonderful is About to Happen to Your Hair...
Killer   Chemist

6 comments:

  1. I'm curious as to what happens to the color that is lifted out of your hair... does it just vanish, or is it, for lack of better word, killed by something is the dye?

    This may be a question with an obvious answer, but does Permanent Color fade at all?

    I'm new here by the way, in case you haven't figured out already, :)
    I've been reading through Killerstrands for a week or more now, and I love it. I'm learning a lot. I've joined the Google Group too, but I've yet to introduce myself. I'm lazy...

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  2. can u do a demo on this...? i dont think i have really seen a demo for lifting and depositing...except for when u did the red with the ribbons where she has the red, dark brown, and blonde colors. I would love to see a demo on like taking a natural brunette like a 3 or 4...up to a higher level brown without using bleach..

    JD.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Slim ( feel like I'm in the wild west ),
    welcome...
    this is quite the question to answer here....
    how about I answer it in a POST, that way many people will read it and benefit from it.
    Plus, people can "search" for it that way.

    Here, it kind of gets lost. Then, I get mad at myself for not making it a POST.

    Stay tuned.

    KC

    ReplyDelete
  4. JD,
    I will have to run a test on one of my mannequins...they sell them as being "Hair Color-Ready Doll Heads" .
    But, I find they don't all perform correctly.
    Just like I sing to you, I must run a Strand Test to see how well this will demonstrate to you in photos.
    Stay tuned...

    KC

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  5. Sweet, I'll wait for the post then :)

    ReplyDelete
  6. kool. thanks for answerin me! i look forward to it being that I always love your demos...haha theyre exciting. Cya!

    ReplyDelete

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