August 31, 2016

Battle of the Highlift Blond VERSUS Bleach - Photo Demo: See For Yourself

This an old post from 2008 and I wanted to show you that at one time there existed a highlift that could PROPERLY Lift hair to blonde with ZERO brass from a Level 5-6 ......  which the dollhead came with...... 

I found these old photos and I'm just so very upset that 8 years ago we had a highlift blonde that lifted hair from a Level 5-6 to a Level 11 - virtually

This was a demo displaying how to apply these 

Finally I have the end of the TRIXIE transformation. The battle between the highlift blonds and bleach and how far a highlift blond can really go . I'm sorry my program for writing my posts is screwed up so todays post is going to be very half-assed until I can figure out how to fix it. . .

Proceeding with Trixie to the front quadrants. . . on the right side as you see here I applied Oil Bleach and 20Volume - starting at the bottom of the quadrant and going up in 1/2 inch partings, moving as quickly but as carefully as you can.
Then on the left side of her hair : I used Renbow 100A + White Genie + 40 Volume
the White Genie being the key to this high level of lift. As you will see it equalled the lift of bleach!
Always - Always use INTENSIVE ( changed from IN DEPTH to our INTENSIVE in 2010!) after every single color procedure as you color. . . .Locks in color and equlizes the pH (which locks in color l

On the left BACK quadrant I have used Renbow 100A + 40 Volume = NO White Genie was used. As you can see the result is about a 8NG, which to some is a perfectly fine level to reach, and it does depend on your goals . . . but in this case we were headed towards a level 10 and the result with a High Lift Blonde and 40 Volume does not get there - not on a Level 4-5 Base.

See the result?

Bleach VERSUS High lift and White Genie produces about the same result . . .

as you can now see with your own eyes. The left back quadrant also shows that a straight HIGH LIFT Blond can only lift SO FAR . . . as you can see it gets to about a Level 8 and that's it!

Here I have applied the TONERS on both sides.

Remember it is called a BLEACH and TONE,

ALWAYS - ALWAYS - tone your hair. The best? Color Touch..

 YES - apply INTENSIVE again . . . . you will thank me in the end.



GO........TRIXIE finished . . .Wasn't that hard . . . or that bad . . . do you think?

 See the back left quadrant, is the only one that didn't turn out light enough - although you can't really tell in these photos. . .

Finished TRIXIE

So, what do you think>? excuse the make-up my girlfriends daughter went nuts with markers! ! !  she thought it was beautiful ! ! ! 

What questions do you have?

I mean if you are totally opposed to bleach you can now see that it can be equaled WITH A HAIR COLOR THAT WAS MADE FOR 20 YEARS.
It was first made in Italy and then the USA invited him over here and he made it in Pennsylvania or one of those little states in that area.....until he sold the company to Paul Mitchell......... the chemists were so upset at how Mitchell ran the company {cut their salary} they took the secret to the formula and moved to another company I was told. 

Somewhere out there is a couple of cosmetic chemists with gold in their phones/laptops ! ! ! !

I mean ONLY by using a High-lift Blonde by Renbow --- we could achieve a beautiful brass-free blonde on a doll head no less - (they are harder to lift than regular human hair on a human body)

So in 2008 there was a highlift that lightened Level 5-6 hair color - - - - to a beautiful blonde color color.



You will be a very rich entrepreneur afterwards - just ask any hair colorist. 


.........................IN THIS COUNTRY 

..............ASK FOR THIS VERY THING 





.......................EVERY SINGLE YEAR ? ? ?

10's of Thousands. . . .

If I was well I would take this on . . . 

So I challenge someone  - - -

who is looking for a smart investment


Killer Chemist

August 27, 2016

Want To Be One of The Best Hair Colorists ?

There is no secret that one of my favorite tricks is the MALIBU C line of shampoo's and treatment packets.

I want to answer a couple questions I receive about the line and one that I don't think many of you realize. Years ago I fortunate enough to assist in a master class for Master Hair colorists at Sassoon Academy. It was one of the most amazing days/nights of my educational career and I will never forget it. I assisted under Annie Humphreys and for all you Colorists out there - if you have never heard of her......the first thing you need to do when we are done here is to Google her and learn about her. Everything and anything I teach has come from her and my Educator, which means everything you do in your career has something that has come from this wonderful woman. Annie and her friend Tim Hartley owned Sassoon for over 20 years, before they last sold it, she was based in London and had worked under Sassoon for many years. 

To work under her was a gift and the class was on Blonde's that night and we were given a list of ingredients to get for her and to have her models ready for her to color when she got there.

A couple of the items on the list will maybe explain why I do a couple of the things I do and teach now.....because the items we didn't have that day turned into a living nightmare for about 6 hours. 

Back then hair color supplies were much harder to get than they are took a lot of prep just to try to have the things you wanted 2 weeks out !

  We were to get 12 Malibu treatment packets, Malibu UN DOO GOO shampoo and 2 dozen Oil Bleach Kits !  Among other objects like foils, combs, all the normal items that we had. But we had 2 packets of Malibu C and 3 Oil Bleach Kits and no shampoo.....we called her assistant in New York as she was on a plane on her way. We were screamed at and never had I ever had to go through what happened after that.  People had paid $5000. to attend this master class and it was something she only did in L.A. - every once in a couple years. 

Needless to say, all HELL broke loose, with everyone at the Academy yelling at everyone. I hopped in my car and started the fastest and craziest car chase for hair products in history.  I drove for 6 hours circling L.A. from  orange County to Ventura county and went to over a dozen supplies. I had to be there by a certain time and pulled in 20 minutes late. But I had my supplies finally and everyone hugged me and then I went on to assist her that night which ended up being an amazing experience..  

The thing about hair color to me was............I had been a Stunt woman in Hollywood for nearly 20 years so doing hair seemed pretty unexciting to me -- I had left my ex-husband and he had me "black-balled" in the I had a beautiful home and a lot of $$ put away, but I was bored & needed money coming in . I had always been an artist and this was the only way, at the age I was, I could come up with to have a career and have money coming in....instead of just money going out. Who new .............that  - - in the future  - - - I would be diagnosed with a very rare bone tumor in my leg, which would put an end to my Hair Coloring career. {Its funny how life turns out}. But, back to the Malibu packets & Shampoo. 
 Never before that had I realized how important those 3 factors were to achieve dynamite blondes. When she finally got there, I listened to her every word. She said that the Malibu treatment packets were necessary to give the hair a clean canvas so the hair color would turn out completely even with no variations in color. They remove all the chlorine, copper and metals and build up that are in our water, for some reason.  I immediately began using the Malibu packets on my clientele and actually started a trend of them purchasing one from me and then the night before they would come for their hair color appointment, their hair would be ready to go.  I suggest that to all Hair colorists out there. . . . either that or purchase UN DOO GOO Shampoo, this is something I recommend everyone do at home all year long. 

Every Sunday I used UN DOO GOO Shampoo, shampoo in ............leave the suds on for4-10 minutes ( I leave it on 5) rinse well normally and you will notice a difference when you are finished, your hair feels light and fluffy ! 

Let me explain some of the packets:
CRYSTAL GEL ...this was the only packet that existed back then...they have since come up with a lot more packets for various treatments.The original wellness hair remedy, this is a patented vitamin complex that naturally primes hair to provide a crystal clear canvas so all color/perm/relaxers/etc. will react evenly on the hair.
Superior to clarifying shampoos for the removal of styling product resins from the hair, this uniquely gentle, 100% vegan wellness shampoo blends an exclusive sulfate-free cleansing system with soothing botanicals plus moisture-boosting vitamins to immediately remove product buildup and instantly restore maximum manageability. Scent : a mild orange/vanilla  This, if the suds are left in at least 4 minutes, will also leave the hair a clean canvas = so the hair is ready to color EVENLY !                                                                    

 CPR Color Removal Removal
This packet is made to remove hair color pigment, now don't get the wrong idea it is not strong enough to completely remove dark hair color and especially it won't remove black hair color, but what it will do is loosen color molecules and prepare in for removal WITH VANISH, used with the SHAMPOO TRAIN  - follow those and you can remove all hair color


This packet is used to remove - CRAZY COLORS , Boost & Burst. or any color that is applied that does NOT use developer, which basically leaves the hair strands 'stained'. . .  not colored where the color molecules go INSIDE the hair strands.

 We receive many questions about achieving "EVEN" hair color results. Some with BOOST & BURST and some with Demi- permanent and even some with permanent color.  There are many times when you have received color by hair stylists where they have not followed a lot of the "rules-of-coloring". Many times its why you have left that hair stylist, and decided that you must be able to do a better job than her.....!!! I hear this on a daily basis here. So if you have an UNEVEN base then many times when you apply color on top of an un-even base as it washes out it will again appear to be uneven. What to do?
YOU MUST GET THE BASE even. If it is deeply embedded you should use the CPR and use a Cap and purchase our travel hooded hair works excellent for this with heat these packets work 3 & 4Times better than without....
Yes, you may use heat with all of them and they WILL work 3-4 & 5 times better. 
August 22, 2016

The Results of Various Toners & How They Work ?

This is the single most common email question/subject I receive and I hope writing a Post about the results of various Toners might help many of you understand the answer.

This answer has 2 separate answers.............. 1 answer would not cover the whole topic. Remember whenever using ANY developer and yes...I mean "ANY"....If you have virgin hair anywhere on your head, that hair will show a "line-of-demarcation" using any Toners or Demi-Permanent Hair Color

 ( Virgin hair or hair that has never been colored is below) 

So it doesn't matter what Volume it is...........USING DEVELOPER CREATES A LINE OF DEMARCATION
(the only exception: if you have Level 10 or lighter) 

DURP means : Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment - which is the annoying color that pops up in almost every single person's hair when lightening. Some of you don't have any DURP at all - but you are few and far between. 
Most of you have tried lightening your hair at some point, that is just a fact I know from talking to so many of you. When you lighten the hair -- the DURP pops out. It is extremely difficult to get rid of by covering it up.
Does DURP only show if you lighten the hair? NO some people have it naturally.

The name of the Tool we have to cover up annoying DURP - is called: "TONER"

Personally my #1 favorite tool on blondes is to apply the lightener 1 more time and lighten it past the brass/gold stage.That way Toners are not necessary, which I feel is why my clientele was so large and grew so quickly.When you can turn out brass-free blondes, the word begins to spread.
I feel many of you Colorists out there are afraid to leave the lightener on long enough or you don't apply enough applications.                                               
First of All ..........understand this:

Definition of a Toner -- is any hair color used to deal with the DURP (brass/gold/blorange) leftover from lightening hair. Now this Toner can be a hair color that is used with Developer....and that Developer can be anywhere from 3Volume to 18Volume to create that color into being a Toner as:
-- -- -- Developers BELOW 20 Volume theoretically don't    lighten the hair
They don't lighten but they DO leave a line of demarcation.
So it IS really lightening. Because if you have ever seen it, it isn't a darkening line, it IS a line of demarcation though.

To be perfectly honest it can also be any Level and ANY COLOR Toner, for example : ....Asians usually have problems with Red in their dark hair when lightening a little 

so.............therefore one can use a Green Based Toner (Darkest Brown ASH in some lines) to conquer that problem which could be as dark as a  Level 3. So Toners are not just for blondes. Toners are for ANY hair color needing to deal with whatever color DURP is in your hair color.

I have Level 8 copper hair, so how does a redhead deal with this? My DURP is GOLD, yes gold is part of copper but many times the hair color is wayyyy too gold. So I look for a Level 8 Red Neutral instead of Level 8 Red-Gold like so many people do. I have tried every single type of Toner in my life and career. 
  • LOW - 3Volume Developer 
  • 18 Volume Toner.....                                                                     
  • Color Touch in 9/16 - it has violet so it works a tiny bit on the gold, but there is no Toner that lasts for 4-6 weeks so it is a never ending game of re-touching.
  • I have found that using a Toner even a super low Volume, just is a pain-in-the-ass and never lasts, and I don't know about you, but my GOLD DURP is on my lengths, so to apply hair color on my lengths (my hair is past my bra strap), is difficult to do to oneself That is a lot of hair.
  • I have decided on using BOOST & BURST, I have been using Boost & BURST for 15 years, they just were bottles in my shower with no name.
  • The Toner I have on my own hair is why many years ago I decided to Shampoo "IN" and Conditioner "IN" my Toner. I find it is the easiest & gives me the most effective result. I LOVE how my hair feels right after.....I truly do. My color is rich there is ZERO Gold. I find this way to be the easiest OVERALL method, especially with long hair.
  •  I do it once a week, sometimes I do it in the sink while cleaning or doing laundry, or I will do it in the shower. Sometimes I will apply the shampoo without water at first then add in a little water and shampoo.  Shampoo the hair  then leave in for 5 minutes -- RINSE lightly -- towel dry the hair... -- Apply Conditioner for 10 minutes - while shaving & doing everything else. Rinse lightly and poof it looks superb, it really does - I use Killer Copper 2. It takes less time than breaking out hair color and it lasts a lot longer. Another advantage? If I decide to lighten my hair a Level or 2 (in the Spring) all I have to do is stop using it....use regular shampoo and POOF in a week or two -- its gone and there is NO LINE OF DEMARCATION
  • That is how BOOST & BURST were created and sold over the last 1 1/2 year ago...Its why we have H.Ash Brown, for those with Red DURP................Violet Pilot for those with Brass................Breaking Bad Blue for those with BLOrange ...............Wink.Perry.Wink for those with Gold/Brass..............we should have a color for every single color DURP there is.
  • I've never really written a Post about BOOST AND BURST and explained things so that is my mistake and I am sorry.
 Prince, Violet Pilot & PERP all work wonders on brass & Gold

(2) VIRGIN HAIR that has never been colored.
  •  Virgin hair will ALWAYS get a line of demarcation, when a Toner using ANY Volume Developer. Yep, even 2 Volume will leave a line of demarcation. In other words, you will see a line on the never colored hair.
  • The only Toner you may use on Virgin hair with highlights and not have it color the virgin hair is BOOST & BURST, which is semi-permanent hair color I'm afraid. I know all of these answers are probably not what you wanted to hear, but they are in fact THE TRUTH 
  • A toner without the use of a Developer --- ANY developer is the only way you will not color the rest of the hair. Think about it..............why would it only color the lightened pieces? What special thing is mixed in so it will not color the rest of the hair?
  • I'm sorry, BOOST & BURST are your best selection .  Still.

Breaking Bad Blue works wonders on Gold/Blorange
August 14, 2016

Class Is In Session : Understand How To Rid Hair of Unwanted Tones (DURP)

Unwanted Tones is a difficult subject 

for Most Hair Colorists

I have been writing about this subject for over 10 years. . .because it is single most misunderstood subject. People ask me every single day how they might rid their hair of this tone or that tone. So in a dream (weird I know) the idea below hit me and I am hoping it will help Hair Colorists across the board (both Crib & Professional understand the subject better.

Remember the beginning, you must ALL have or DRAW (with crayons, felt pens or paints are the best) a Color Wheel in your possession, so it is implanted in your brain.

 The idea on this Color Wheel is to get to the middle of the color wheel where your tone will be neutral. EVERYONE (whether you know it or not) wants a NEUTRAL Tone. A Tone that is NOT annoying to the eye. So the center of this color wheel is NEUTRAL. you want to end up with your color in the center.
  • The #1 most complained about color is Brass (or Yellow) - see the #1?
  • Follow that across the color wheel.... because to draw that brass into the NEUTRAL center - the one and only way to do that is by using ANOTHER color ( whether it be a toner or BOOST & BURST) in the opposing color, which is Violet (and that is why there are 150,000 purple shampoos in the world) !
  • The 2nd example is looking at it from the opposite viewpoint. Blue toned Toners or Breaking Bad Blue BOOST & BURST are used to fight the DURP we call : Blorange ....or a Blonde with Orange-y tones.
  • Using a Blue based Toner ( which is MATT in Wella ) will fight Blorange-y annoying tones across the board.
  • DURP means: DOMINANT - UNDERLYING - REMAINING - PIGMENT. Or in other words - when hair is not lightened enough, these will be the annoying tones you are stuck with.
  • That is your whole key to not having DURP problems. Don't lighten your hair. Some people have natural DURP but not very almost always comes from some sort of coloring adventure.
  • So, in order to solve your DURP , just find whatever color it is...................on the above color wheel. Draw an arrow across the wheel................. and then find a Toner or hair color based in that color. You can find hair colors, Toners  & BOOST + BURST,  based in any color you need. Just do a little research !

  • I hope this Color Wheel helps a little bit for those struggling understanding this.
August 2, 2016

Master Pastel Hair Color and the Products to Explore the Trend

The trend for Pastel Hair coloring is growing everyday, believe it or not, I have received many requests to open up the secrets to achieving these wonderful looks. I know many of you might wonder, what the Hell ?  But come on  . .  its hair color and as I used to say to parents who would ask me what to do about their child wanting Krazy Kolors in their hair................... "If that is the worst thing your child ever does to express themselves as a teenager...........................I would count your lucky stars"

. . . of all the ways people like to express themselves artistically - coloring/cutting or doing anything with the hair out of the norm. is completely Reversible, you may ALLWAYS - - - - - - 
cut it off, 
start all over again 
and have 100% VIRGIN HAIR again, 
what other part of the body can you do that with?

 What other part of the body may you use as a CANVAS to express yourself? 
One Day you can go: Barbie Batshit crazy and the next day you can go completely back to Suzy Sweetheart - Level 6 Boring Brown -

 IF ---- 

YOU ----- 


 TO !            - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hair has to be the single most amazing and extraordinary body part that you own and it is ALL yours. 

You can do Out in the Moon crazy or you can go just back to the planet Harriet Home-Maker IF-YOU-WANT-TO ! ! 


Boost & Burst our Most wonderful Little Products that I decided to sell to YOU about 18 months ago - have turned into an amazing little Surprize for Killerstrands Customers, i receive so very many happy hair colorists out there. Maybe you just found them.....if that is so I highly encourage you to give them a try. 

I you have gray hair * a LOT of GRAY* . . . . . think about letting it grow out............we now have a way of keeping it silver instead of YELLOWY......

By the use of

Silver Bullet.....
BOOST......AS YOU SEE HERE.....---------->>

....(Just a straight medium Silver Shampooo & Conditioner) ......Shampoo in...................

Leave in 5minutes......................

Let Process from 2- 20 minutes.

Using these products & have just ENDLESS OPPORTUNITIES as far as 


Silver Brass Bullet 
is made for those with lots of YELLOW or BRASS
As some with 100% Silver hair pull lots of  yellow and with Silver-Brass Bullet in 
we have started with a
BASE of .
& then we added Silver right on top of the VIOLET

THIS magical combination tones down the yellow 
and makes the SILVER SHINE

They are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much fun!


. . . "FORCE BE WITH YOU.". . . . . added to BURST

....which is an addition of multiple spoonfuls of micro-glitter added in our own unique method which gives 80--85% of you a BLAST of GLITTER throughout your hair......

it one of our most clever , exclusive and wild 
                 additions to our products line....I'm very proud of it...( I am a secret glitteraholic ! ! ! )
 . . . .  I hope you become one too ! ! !! ! ! 

Order either :

"FORCE-BE-WITH-YOU"..................    8  SPOONS of GLITTER


     SPARK  - 4 Spoons of GLITTER


and Staff 
at Killerstrands Hair Clinic