August 27, 2016

Want To Be One of The Best Hair Colorists ?

There is no secret that one of my favorite tricks is the MALIBU C line of shampoo's and treatment packets.

I want to answer a couple questions I receive about the line and one that I don't think many of you realize. Years ago I fortunate enough to assist in a master class for Master Hair colorists at Sassoon Academy. It was one of the most amazing days/nights of my educational career and I will never forget it. I assisted under Annie Humphreys and for all you Colorists out there - if you have never heard of her......the first thing you need to do when we are done here is to Google her and learn about her. Everything and anything I teach has come from her and my Educator, which means everything you do in your career has something that has come from this wonderful woman. Annie and her friend Tim Hartley owned Sassoon for over 20 years, before they last sold it, she was based in London and had worked under Sassoon for many years. 

To work under her was a gift and the class was on Blonde's that night and we were given a list of ingredients to get for her and to have her models ready for her to color when she got there.


A couple of the items on the list will maybe explain why I do a couple of the things I do and teach now.....because the items we didn't have that day turned into a living nightmare for about 6 hours. 

Back then hair color supplies were much harder to get than they are now....it took a lot of prep just to try to have the things you wanted 2 weeks out !

  We were to get 12 Malibu treatment packets, Malibu UN DOO GOO shampoo and 2 dozen Oil Bleach Kits !  Among other objects like foils, combs, all the normal items that we had. But we had 2 packets of Malibu C and 3 Oil Bleach Kits and no shampoo.....we called her assistant in New York as she was on a plane on her way. We were screamed at and never had I ever had to go through what happened after that.  People had paid $5000. to attend this master class and it was something she only did in L.A. - every once in a couple years. 

Needless to say, all HELL broke loose, with everyone at the Academy yelling at everyone. I hopped in my car and started the fastest and craziest car chase for hair products in history.  I drove for 6 hours circling L.A. from  orange County to Ventura county and went to over a dozen supplies. I had to be there by a certain time and pulled in 20 minutes late. But I had my supplies finally and everyone hugged me and then I went on to assist her that night which ended up being an amazing experience..  

The thing about hair color to me was............I had been a Stunt woman in Hollywood for nearly 20 years so doing hair seemed pretty unexciting to me -- I had left my ex-husband and he had me "black-balled" in the industry...........so I had a beautiful home and a lot of $$ put away, but I was bored & needed money coming in . I had always been an artist and this was the only way, at the age I was, I could come up with to have a career and have money coming in....instead of just money going out. Who new .............that  - - in the future  - - - I would be diagnosed with a very rare bone tumor in my leg, which would put an end to my Hair Coloring career. {Its funny how life turns out}. But, back to the Malibu packets & Shampoo. 
 Never before that had I realized how important those 3 factors were to achieve dynamite blondes. When she finally got there, I listened to her every word. She said that the Malibu treatment packets were necessary to give the hair a clean canvas so the hair color would turn out completely even with no variations in color. They remove all the chlorine, copper and metals and build up that are in our water, for some reason.  I immediately began using the Malibu packets on my clientele and actually started a trend of them purchasing one from me and then the night before they would come for their hair color appointment, their hair would be ready to go.  I suggest that to all Hair colorists out there. . . . either that or purchase UN DOO GOO Shampoo, this is something I recommend everyone do at home all year long. 

Every Sunday I used UN DOO GOO Shampoo, shampoo in ............leave the suds on for4-10 minutes ( I leave it on 5) rinse well normally and you will notice a difference when you are finished, your hair feels light and fluffy ! 

Let me explain some of the packets:
CRYSTAL GEL ...this was the only packet that existed back then...they have since come up with a lot more packets for various treatments.The original wellness hair remedy, this is a patented vitamin complex that naturally primes hair to provide a crystal clear canvas so all color/perm/relaxers/etc. will react evenly on the hair.
Superior to clarifying shampoos for the removal of styling product resins from the hair, this uniquely gentle, 100% vegan wellness shampoo blends an exclusive sulfate-free cleansing system with soothing botanicals plus moisture-boosting vitamins to immediately remove product buildup and instantly restore maximum manageability. Scent : a mild orange/vanilla  This, if the suds are left in at least 4 minutes, will also leave the hair a clean canvas = so the hair is ready to color EVENLY !                                                                    




 CPR Color Removal Removal
This packet is made to remove hair color pigment, now don't get the wrong idea it is not strong enough to completely remove dark hair color and especially it won't remove black hair color, but what it will do is loosen color molecules and prepare in for removal WITH VANISH, used with the SHAMPOO TRAIN  - follow those and you can remove all hair color


  

 
DDL DIRECT DYE LIFTER 
This packet is used to remove - CRAZY COLORS , Boost & Burst. or any color that is applied that does NOT use developer, which basically leaves the hair strands 'stained'. . .  not colored where the color molecules go INSIDE the hair strands.





 We receive many questions about achieving "EVEN" hair color results. Some with BOOST & BURST and some with Demi- permanent and even some with permanent color.  There are many times when you have received color by hair stylists where they have not followed a lot of the "rules-of-coloring". Many times its why you have left that hair stylist, and decided that you must be able to do a better job than her.....!!! I hear this on a daily basis here. So if you have an UNEVEN base then many times when you apply color on top of an un-even base as it washes out it will again appear to be uneven. What to do?
YOU MUST GET THE BASE even. If it is deeply embedded you should use the CPR and use a Cap and purchase our travel hooded hair dryer.....it works excellent for this purpose...as with heat these packets work 3 & 4Times better than without....
Yes, you may use heat with all of them and they WILL work 3-4 & 5 times better. 
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