August 14, 2016

Class Is In Session : Understand How To Rid Hair of Unwanted Tones (DURP)

Unwanted Tones is a difficult subject 

for Most Hair Colorists

I have been writing about this subject for over 10 years. . .because it is single most misunderstood subject. People ask me every single day how they might rid their hair of this tone or that tone. So in a dream (weird I know) the idea below hit me and I am hoping it will help Hair Colorists across the board (both Crib & Professional understand the subject better.

Remember the beginning, you must ALL have or DRAW (with crayons, felt pens or paints are the best) a Color Wheel in your possession, so it is implanted in your brain.

 The idea on this Color Wheel is to get to the middle of the color wheel where your tone will be neutral. EVERYONE (whether you know it or not) wants a NEUTRAL Tone. A Tone that is NOT annoying to the eye. So the center of this color wheel is NEUTRAL. you want to end up with your color in the center.
  • The #1 most complained about color is Brass (or Yellow) - see the #1?
  • Follow that across the color wheel.... because to draw that brass into the NEUTRAL center - the one and only way to do that is by using ANOTHER color ( whether it be a toner or BOOST & BURST) in the opposing color, which is Violet (and that is why there are 150,000 purple shampoos in the world) !
  • The 2nd example is looking at it from the opposite viewpoint. Blue toned Toners or Breaking Bad Blue BOOST & BURST are used to fight the DURP we call : Blorange ....or a Blonde with Orange-y tones.
  • Using a Blue based Toner ( which is MATT in Wella ) will fight Blorange-y annoying tones across the board.
  • DURP means: DOMINANT - UNDERLYING - REMAINING - PIGMENT. Or in other words - when hair is not lightened enough, these will be the annoying tones you are stuck with.
  • That is your whole key to not having DURP problems. Don't lighten your hair. Some people have natural DURP but not very almost always comes from some sort of coloring adventure.
  • So, in order to solve your DURP , just find whatever color it is...................on the above color wheel. Draw an arrow across the wheel................. and then find a Toner or hair color based in that color. You can find hair colors, Toners  & BOOST + BURST,  based in any color you need. Just do a little research !

  • I hope this Color Wheel helps a little bit for those struggling understanding this.
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