November 18, 2016

The Secret To Avoiding Uneven Hair Color Results

Speaking to people and trying to help them all week I pick up on facts or tricks that I have neglected to point out to everyone so as they come up I will note them here.

As I have told many of you . . . .Professional Hair Color is made to use within the Level System. Using the Level System requires you to pick out color within the Level you are going to use to create the perfect formula....or using other levels to achieve your ultimate goal.

Professional Hair color is designed to be used in "parts"  . .  it really isn't made to pick up one color then apply -- process --- rinse --- condition and dry....NOPE if it was that easy - the Art of Hair Coloring wouldn't be such a tough task to learn and to apply. Its just NOT an easy road, its tough and ............hard to understand and ................hard to decipher.

Lets just take a very common formula on a very average head of hair ( none of you are average but I hope you understand what I am trying to say. . . . .

Lets just say you have Level 6 light Brown hair with 40% Stubborn gray (only on the temples) Gray, with a couple of ribbons of blonde that have a tendency to go brassy between retouches. Let me show you how I would retouch her hair if she came to me to have me do her color. . . . . . 

  • First  for the hair on the temples I would mix one batch and the rest of the hair another.
  • For the complete formula I will choose:
  • 7/0 ( because Wella runs a full LEVEL darker).......the /0 colors we call "NEUTRALS"   
  • 7/1 - This is a LEVEL 7 ASH fight any orange/reds that come with brunettes - most like an icey brown as opposed to a warm one.
  • 7/2  - /2 colors are MATT - MATT colors fight Blorange/orange /Golds
  • 7/7 - /7 are Browns - to create a chocolatey brown
  • So there is your complete formula 
  • 7/0 + 7/1+ 7/2 + 7/7 + 20 VOLUME Developer
  • for the sides that are tough to keep the gray covered you will use the double neutral pigment series or /00 .........we call them double ZERO's. They have double the pigment in them to cover very tough to color hair. We save these for the end, when nothing else works, for now this is our best warfare on "tough-to-cover" Gray hairs ! ! ! 
  • So on the sides I would use a small bowl of 7/00 + 7/1 + 7/2 + 7/7 + 20 Volume Developer in a one to one ratio . APPLY HERE FIRST, so it sits on the tough to cover hair the LONGEST! ! ! ! !  
  •  But, the main topic I wrote this for was to explain to you How exactly to mix this formula up - - because it is very very important.  You are to pour each measurement of each one of those colors IN THE>....BOWL. ...........then the most important fact? Is that you MUST MIX those colors together FIRST...... BEFORE you pour the developer in the bowl, otherwise you will get clumpy color. So BE SURE YOU mix all the various colors together FIRST. THEN measure the exact same amount of developer as you used hair color and just before you are ready to apply the color to your hair, you mix the 2 together.......and apply immediately...
  • Remember, work as quickly and as neatly as possible.  



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