Monday, February 4, 2008
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Had a couple over enthusiastic hair color cowboys plow into coloring without realizing this is a serious business, and improper technique can bring disastrous results. As much as I have been thrilled with many success stories, a couple of disasters can erase it all.
It makes me feel like maybe I have failed and did not stress the importance of reading through the entire Blog and all of its steps. Or maybe my explanations were not clear enough. No, I don't have everything posted yet, that will never happen.
There will always be new procedures to bring up-to-date and refresh but the basics are here and if you plan on trying to learn the CRIB COLORIST method you must review the entire blog.
If you are interested in this process I am teaching here , I think I should put it in perspective for you so you understand what an accidental gold mine you have stumbled upon. I bet it was accidental too wasn't it! People spend $40,000. - $50,000. to go to Vidal Sassoon Academy for a year to learn all the information I am delving out here. FREE. Truthfully only top stylists would recognize it, and why would they be looking for it? They wouldn't. That is a pretty damn good deal for all of you and the only reason I am doing it is >
because I am sick. I had a whole other plan, and this sure wasn't it.
take advantage of this odd occurrence - use it in the way it should be used....correctly. Please, read through the entire Blog, take a week to do it - if it seems overwhelming or 'too much' ... it doesn't take that long and everyone I ask to do that - 'Thanks me' they really do! Absorb and learn it so you have the advantage
BECOMING LLLLLEVEL HEADED
I want to go back and review some of the Level System. Of course in this small arena I have I have not covered it all. I tried to focus on the important parts, but I realize there are additional areas I must cover so the education is more thorough.
What I'd like to do is to get everyone on Killerstrands talking in 'Levels and Tones', as a Sassoon Colorist that's how we roll. Everyone is known by their hair color level & tone, every single person has one, even if they have never colored their hair. So as you go through your day, as you stand in the line at the post office - start guessing everyone's Level and Tone - practice makes perfect
The first task in learning hair color theory is to understand the difference between LEVEL and TONE. These 2 characteristics of Color are the most important and vital to understanding the concept.
Level, I feel fairly confidant that most everyone understands this concept, it simply refers to the lightness or darkness of hair color be it natural or artificial. If anyone out there is having a difficult time with the concept of "Level" I want you to post a comment at the end of this post OR email me so I know. Everyone here needs to be able to name every person in your life's Level/Tone of hair. Think about that. . can you?
Everyone is a LEVEL 1 thru 12 .
I guess the confusing part comes from the fact that as soon as the major hair color manufacturers decide on a basic 8 Tones, one of the companies decides to add a new tone or two, for Pizzazz! As colorists we are never more thrilled when we hear of a new tone coming down the pike. They call that a Lab-Rat, and sadly I may fit well into that category -- what a loser.
Manufacturers Level Systems vary somewhat from one another. Some products have ten levels, some 11, some 12. Regardless of the variations the lowest number will be the darkest color in any given system - highest number the lightest color.
Levels are precise degrees of lightness standardized across the manufacturer's tonal groups. All colors of the same level will have the same degree of lightness or depth, whether natural (neutral), ash, gold, matte, Pearl, Brown-Red-Violet, or any other tone.
To illustrate this, visualize a tall building, black is the basement and white is the penthouse, graduating from dark to light each story a grade lighter than the one beneath it. That is the International Level System, with numbers identifying those grade of dark to light. If you wash this image with a hue, such as gold, then you have a tonal series. Imagine a "black and White" photograph - in that you are only seeing 'Levels" of color. Before color in our TV's and in our photographs we only had this "tonal" look. Its taking one color and going from the dark to light in each.
Tone refers to the hue of a hair color, be it natural or artificial. The main tones, or hues, of hair coloring are natural,ash,gold & red...although I would add Brown, matt,pearl, brown-red and a few others.
Another point I know I didn't clarify was the labeling of hair color, so when you go to buy that first tube of color you won't be thoroughly confused by what's printed on the end of the box. Manufacturers usually indicate the tones of their colors with letters: 'A' for Ash ....'N' for Neutral and so on. Numbers are also used to designate 'tone', for instance, if ".1" means ASH , then a Level 6 ASH would be a 6.1. That's the method, my European based WELLA line uses and to make it easier on the end of the box it says : 6/01A, so you get both.
Any color can be described in level and tone. If the sky is blue and darkest blue almost navy along the horizon and then graduates up as you look into the sky. Those are also distinctions in "level". The level system pertains specifically and only to haircoloring.
If you are having problem distinguishing between level and tone, give it some more time. It will come to you. Its just foreign lingo.
FYI: the painters use of these words are totally different than the haircolorists and should not be related -- each has different vernaculars.
Friday, February 1, 2008
My dream when in the Salon was always to open a HAIR HEALTH SPA. A spa where the one and only concern once you walked in was the health of your hair - not skin, not body...but hair! I've heard of just a couple in the whole United States, just like spa's take care of skin, salons should take care of hair. Hair needs to be analyzed, deciphered and given an RX so the client learns how to take care of it the proper way. I have spent my entire career teaching my clients what I know about taking care of their hair and I seem to be the only one doing it. When I get new clients that come to me from other stylists they have never heard of any of my advice or knowledge, it blows me away. So I hope to impart on the world what I have been teaching my clients for the past 14 years, that works. It really works.
I am in utter amazement 1/2 the time, why am I the only one trying to figure it out?
A stack of surveys notes that 79% of women are on a quest to solve their damage problem, a hefty amount of people in my book.
After spending 2 years learning Cosmetic Chemistry, I came up with what I feel is the one and only deep conditioner that truly does work to repair hair damage: THRIVEN.
After running tests and surveying Clients opinions for 2 years I am confidant in recommending it as a solution not just a cover-up to damaged hair. No, it does not take a completely dead, lifeless & destroyed hair and give it life, that is not possible. There is a line, a line where the hair can be helped - I've argued to within an inch of my life with chemists that don't agree with me...its hard to define in 'words', I can tell you the minute I feel and look at the hair...which is what makes dealing with hair "online" the most difficult for me. So much of it is visual and in 'touch' and I never realized how much until I took this on. When I feel hair I can tell you whether it can be revived or not...you can feel 'life' in it or not.
What THRIVEN does help, is hair that is:
- dry split ends
- over flat ironed
- not growing
An 8 ounce jar is $50.00, it can be purchased from Killerstrands through PAY PAL, by sending an email to Killerstrands@gmail.com and placing "PRODUCT ORDER" in the subject space. I don't recommend anything I do not fully believe in, have not tested through my "own" research & lab work and most importantly the results I gained from the over 10,000 heads of hair that have sat in my chair .
I have witnessed this conditioner give shine and luster to hair with none - over and over. If you have any of the above problems and apply this conditioner (at least) 1-2 times a week using the "slumber" method, ------> 'sleep' with it in
It will begin to be repaired.
Watch the magic.
* * * * * * * * * I've been asked about the ingredients of THRIVEN. . . if I was being thorough, I would have posted them up-front, my sincere apologies * * * * * * * * * *
To Purchase THRIVEN and info on the Secret Supplement : the cornerstone of 10,000HEADS..... simply click here and visit KillerStrands new Store :
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
There may be many different theories on hair color, I don’t know…I was taught by the best so I have never needed to look anywhere else. I attended Vidal Sassoon Academy for 1 full year, then stayed on to assist Lucie Doughty (my mentor) for the following year to hone my skills as a colorist, which was worth every single minute! She was kind enough to share many tricks and secrets many wouldn't do. England is the so-called “home” of hair color & hair for that matter…with Vidal Sassoon’s head colorist Annie Humphrey's being given the name the “Mother of All Hair Color” of the last 25 years that I know of. She has always set the “collections”…developed the “trends”…made up new and innovative coloring techniques that we as “pupils” (wink) would pick up -copy and spread throughout this country – she was a firecracker and damn what a talent. Everything I know and practice was passed down from her and I have worked directly under her on occasion.
Its not that hard, and the only reason they don't push the separate TUBE ... and DEVELOPER method is , they don't think the public will take the time to learn this small system I am asking you to learn. The LEVEL system. Once you understand THAT . . .then you can figure out what tube of hair color and what Volume of developer you should use.
Not all hair colors work on all hair, there are many limitations I promise you - they don't tell you that one statement on those box kits. There are already many readers that have taken the time to learn the Level System and have written in with their stories, I will begin a section with them very soon. I promise its very simple - - - like learning to cook - the basics. Please go to our GROUP - there is a BEGINNING to COLOR Your Hair at Home section http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands
gloves come free with every order of hair color
I feel with a little education, demonstrations and a great website it can be solved and all of you can have the knowledge to pick out your own tube of hair color the RIGHT ONE and the proper volume of developer not the one they think you need - hair color does not work that way. So when you color your hair, you don't have to go back and buy another color and cover it up.
Either way they are getting you for 2 hair colors - when it only needs to be one.
when I am gone, I am trying to get everything down as quick as possible - I'd like everyone to be able to get the advantages. So I would start learning and reading if I were you. No other Stylist will give up what I have, I've said it before: Stylists are only as good as their trick and secrets.