To Bleach Or Not To Bleach: That Is The Question

Level 12 Hair  =  Platinum Blond Hair

The fascination that comes with Platinum Blond Hair is something that I believe has more to do with the fact that for hundreds of years – that color of hair did not exist on people of either sex . Yes, many children are born as “tow-heads” . .  but as they age I would say 88% gradually darken to brunettes before 18 years of age, about 10% will remain a Level 7/8  and a mere 1-2% will make it to adulthood as natural light blonds. About 1% make it to adulthood as a “light” Blond and ‘none’ make it as the toe-head <> platinum blond we are talking about in this post.  I don’t ‘make up’ the statistics – I merely observe them. When things are “rare” they are more treasured. Its that way with anything …….cars, furniture, skin, jewelry, clothing – everything. . Especially beauty items such as  hair & haircolor  . . . platinum hair to men to women & to everyone… is just striking - - it is sexy – plain and simple. The Bleach and Tone process is what this process is called.
Hair Coloring just happens to be one of the oldest beauty procedures – it was used by various ancient cultures as a sign of affluence, much like it is today. When I was working the Salon in Malibu all those years, I would watch the 14 – 18 year old children of celebrities – ask for $200. – $600. procedures - - frequently. There is no way I am condemning a process in which my own children partake in as well, so please do not think I was judging.

The use of hair coloring was shown in records of ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians, Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention the use of hair colorings.. Early hair dyes were made from plants, metallic compounds, or a mixture of the two. Rock alum, quicklime, and wood ash were used for bleaching hair in Roman times, and herbal preparations included mullein, birch bark, saffron, myrrh, and turmeric. Another early method of coloring hair was to apply powder. Pure white powder for hair or wigs was the show of high-class dress in Europe during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. White powder was made of wheat starch or potato starch, sometimes mixed with plaster of paris, flour, chalk, or burnt alabaster. Similarly colored powders were sometimes used as well.Think of how we have come full-circle, have you seen the products that all resemble TOPPIK ? ? For some reason since the dawn of time we have been compelled to alter our hair color. . .personally I simply find it ‘fun’ – a very non-interesting reason I suppose. When I first began my full-blown practice in the Salon (stopped educating) – I would think and I would actually tell people. . .” the joy I receive from transforming people’s lives with just their hair… is so rewarding that I wish I could do their hair free of charge”.



The reason for the admiration of this color? . . . because it is RARE. . . it is not easy to get, it is expensive to have (done correctly) and to keep up on.This is the hair color that the term “high maintenance” was developed. It is truly the most expensive hair to keep up on, people like Ms.Stefani, Ms. Aguilera will have their base re-done about every 10 -12 - 14 days in order to keep it fresh, new although mainly so there are NO ROOTS in any photos.Think about it . . . ever seen 1 photo of Gwen Stefani with roots showing? Christina?  When bleached roots are re-touched very frequently like that it must be done by skilled hands so there is no “overlap” taking place and there is a sufficient amount of pH balancing and Conditioning going on to keep the hair in “tip-top” shape. So no breakage takes place and the process can continue. All you need is the education this Blog exhibits and I am happy to announce we are finally working on a book in which all “like” Posts and all “like” Demo’s will be in the same Chapter. . . how about that prospect? Regardless of that, all the information is already here. Just do some sincere studying, reading and reviewing of all pertinent Posts to this topic. I have found many members who are truly trying to educate themselves in the Art of Hair Color, as a wonderfully challenging hobby to take up, are purchasing 1 even 2 mannequins to test their prospective hair colors on. 

I can tell you there is a completely different outside ‘visual’ assessment of a person when they have brown hair versus blond. I wish it wasn’t so, just like I wish there was no judging, no prejudice, or bias’ BUT Every single person I have ever changed from a dark hair color to …Platinum ( or any shade of LIGHT Blond, for that matter). . . has told me that their life has been completely transformed by the process. Just know that, keep that piece of information in your pocket - - because I do feel that every person should be a blond, at least once in their life. If for no other reason than for plain and simple FUN ! My one exception is natural born red-heads . . . they should NOT go platinum . . . a pretty widely known hair coloring rule that I am 100% behind.
There are so many hair stylists that will have a bad experience with the Bleach and Tone process, by leaving the bleach on too long and therefore creating lots of breakage (100% completely avoidable - btw). So many of you are afraid of bleach and there is no need to be. What IS necessary is learning how to properly use it. I am of the school that there is no better coloring tool than Bleach and I find different needs for all 3 types of Bleach: 1) Cream Bleach  2) Oil Bleach and last but not least 3) Powder Bleach. All 3 have different purposes and different consistencies . There is just no way to lighten most people’s hair “past” that God-awful stage of brass without Bleach, those hair stylists that bad-mouth Bleach and attempt to lighten hair with Tint, leave the mark of a poorly trained Stylist in most cases. So many of the people who end up on Killerstrands are the product of this situation and want to take back control of their hair and hair color - - by learning exactly how hair color works. Until I decided to open up the previously “closed” books of professional hair color rules, there was no where to go to learn this information.
 

Left side Bleach and tone . . . Right-side Bleach and NO Tone

This rare and wonderful treat of platinum hair, the next step is for me to teach and explain how to get this rare commodity in the most safe and correct method there is.
The Technical Names for the Oil Bleach System :

• 2 Step process
  
• Double-Process &
  
• Bleach and Tone

Its funny in the Vidal Sassoon Hair Academy we were taught to never use the word “bleach” – that people are afraid of that ‘specific’ word, to use the word “lightener” instead. That the fear comes from not knowing what “bleach” is (I have tested this theory out with my clients as to what they think and picture). People picture in their head the only thing they know to be Bleach…. You know > that weird clear liquid that smells horrific, which can only be put in with ‘whites’ when you do your Laundry, and if it drops on anything it removes the color immediately. . . so, understandably, its a scary concept to the public.That bleach and the bleach we use on the hair are completely different products, which is what needs to be firmly taught to everyone. They just happen to have the same name, although truly within the hair color world we always call it Lightener. . . except when referring to Oil and Cream Bleach
Hair Stylists do nothing ( I have observed) to alleviate that unknown fear – as most like to leave their clients in the dark. They act as though they have some super power knowledge of hair chemicals that they are not allowed to ‘share’ - - I continue to work towards the opposing theory of this… that has been prevalent for the last 50 years. I want the client…the public…the young and old hair color client… to have the complete knowledge of how hair color works. KNOWLEDGE ELIMINATES FEAR. I want to empower the public to: want to learn how hair color works :it is one of the most important topics to me: and is the goal of this BLOG.
No Colorist can deny the pleasure of turning hair that is dark into gorgeous – beautiful PLATINUM – TONED, hair. That transformation is absolutely the best feeling I have found in coloring hair. Why? It is taking the hair strand through all the stages of the Level System and basically hitting the GOLDMINE of not having any color left in the strands. Learning how to Bleach & Tone is the mark of a true master of Color, in my book.

This is Part 1 of my 2 part series on the Double Process of Bleach/Tone http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/oil-bleach-kit-exclusive-to-killerstrands
Killer Chemist

Creamy Oil Bleach Kit Now Has a Brand New "Violet/Blue" Tinted. . Lightener Base

VIOLET-BLUE-VIOLET-BLUE-VIOLET-BLUE-VIOLET

Creamy-Oil Bleach Kit

Coloring Hair is the single most TRANS-FORMATIVE action that be done to the body that doesn't involve a scalpel ! That says a lot.

Going Platinum is THE single biggest change in Hair Color that one can accomplish or strive for. 
I would imagine (in a much smaller scale) it must be like the thrill a Heart Surgeon gets when transplanting a new heart and giving life to someone who was dying. 
 To watch someone turn from a wall-flower to a wonder-woman - simply by taking her hair from dull mousy brown to dynamic platinum Blonde is the single most rewarding task a Hair Colorist can accomplish. 

The one and ONLY way that thrill is achieved is by achieving a gorgeous - silky - shiny platinum without an ounce of brass.....and only silky/shiny/ strands. I did it for many years, without the help of OLAPLEX or YAHOO or MAGIC PUTTY ! Just because u have figured out how to purchase Olaplex does not mean you need to be using it.

 The Science of Hair Coloring , understanding the Level System of Hair Coloring and using an OIL BLEACH KIT as your tool will completely solve being a brass-free platinum haired beauty !.....ask any top Colorist if they have problems turning hair platinum. Since Marilyn Monroe, we have had the process wired. How do you think Gwen Stefani? Christina Aguillara, have kept their hair so very platinum for the last 20 years? All the magic potions out there are brand new. Just follow the 100 year old science. 

If there are no problems, why are you trying to fix something that is not broken.
 It can (honestly) turn black hair white (see photo right) -- so if the girl to the right can go from black to white....so can you. 

BUT...and this is a giant "BUT" ...... 4 things MUST be followed:  

   - Use Creamy Oil Bleach as the product to lighten.

   - Proper application techniques incl.+ always perform Strand Test

   - Use PLENTY of product (on initial app.)& #1 : 
   - YOU MUST READ EVERY single POST & DEMO in this Blog that pertains the following words (put words in Search Bar atop of this Blog):

• blonding
• violet/blue creamy oil base
• platinum
• bleach & tone
• oil bleach kit
• creamy oil bleach
• blonde
• brass-free blond
• violet/blue creamy oil bleach
• blond demo
• demo

This will bring up all the posts that are mandatory to read prior to embarking on this process. It truly will give you the education that Hair Stylists receive the first couple years. I didn't hold anything back nor will I. I was going to try to write a book but that won't work with the deterioration of my health....I still wish I could......... so when I am not around there would be somewhere you all could go. Anyone a ghost writer out there?

There is one common issue a couple people have had lately, but it is covered in many places...they just didn't read about it so I want to remind you all once again..... The Creamy Oil Bleach Kits - have 2 applications in them - which means the product one needs to Re-Touch the hair....monthly or every 5-6 weeks is in 1 Kit and the other Kit is for the next month. BUT IF you have dense hair you may need both Kits.... It varies from person to person.............please try to use common sense in these issues.. When beginning the whole process you will need multiple kits - why? Because you have the lengths to do and that isn't accounted for .  The roots & lengths must be taken into account when calculating total product needed - our kits have 2 applications which is made for monthly Re-Touches -- NOT the initial lightening. The length, thickness, porosity, all have to be accounted into that equation and it is different for each and every person.....please be aware of that, do your reading and be fully informed before embarking on going platinum.

   

 The one and only product that should be used for an ALL-OVER platinum look is Creamy Oil Bleach ( & even better than that is our Kit where we have BOTH Violet/Blue tinted DEVELOPER & NOW. . . . !)
 You can not get this kit anywhere else in the USA !  

What this Blog Shows you - is all the knowledge that so many of you were not privy to, and I am speaking of non-professional and Pro's just the same !  1

A couple of the large companies (Redken & Wella) used to make an Oil Bleach Kit a few years back............Redken make the professional model and the quality was good although it was a lot harsher than ours. . .  I used to wear a face mask using it. I am not boasting - I am being frank/honest and trying to give you the education you need to be able to both purchase the Kit (especially the NEW MODEL !!! ) and use it. A large majority of people all want to be platinum at some point in their life most everyone can try it ( but redheads and allergy sensitive people) at LEAST ONCE in your life ! ! ! !

I just made this brand new base which I have tinted a Violet/Blue in order to help with fighting brass and gold.. The Kit has 4 Steps. Comes with 2 applications. But everyone needs to understand one very important point. The Kit is made for your monthly Retouch. Therefore 2 re-touches come in 1 Kit. But............to get all over blonde, you MUST purchase multiple Kits. We are thinking of adding a from "SCRATCH to PLATINUM KIT". Which would meanit would be a kit for lightening the lengths. So stay tune for that. For now you will have to purchase multiple Kits. There is an option for purchasing 4 Kits at a discounted rate.

Toners are a useful part of the hair coloring process - some more than others....but if you are a Level 9 thru 12 Blonde most of you either want them or need them. They CAN be one of the most fun aspects of hair coloring because most are Demi-Permanent which means they wash out (somewhat) but they DO leave a line of Demarcation (which comes from using any Volume Developer.  If you do not want that line and you need a Toner.....then it is time to head over to our BOOST & BURST page of truly Semi-Permanent Hair Color Toners as the Pigment is in either a Shampoo or a Conditioner - using ZERO Developer - - - THUS .........NO Line of Demarcation ! Yahoooey !


WE have just added new Creamy-Oil Bleach Base, that with some of my very cool Knowledge of cosmetics have tinted the Creamy Oil Bleach Lightener a fantastic shade of VIOLET/BLUE. . . so that it is just one more step in the never-ending fight against brass/gold & Blorange when lightening hair!

My Next newest Addition will be a bottle of Creamy Oily Violet/Blue Based Bleach for that FIRST TIME APPLICATION ! 

Thank You for making our 10th Birthday such a smash success! Love You All !

KC

How to Apply the Oil Bleach Kit.....A Bleach Re-touch DEMO - Part 1

Application of Oil Bleach 

So this is photos of an Oil Bleach Re-Touch..

 When trying to get past the "yellow stage, you must always apply a 2nd or 3rd or 4th....depends on how dark you are, the goal is to get past the "yellow" stage. The problem comes from people only bleaching once then trying to solve the problem with a Toner.
Its TOO BIG of a problem to solve with a Toner - period. 

It usually needs another bleaching....using the oil bleach protects the hair's health.You can always- ALWAYS email me a photo of your hair color and just ask the question "SHOULD I APPLY ONE MORE TIME?" put that in the subject line and I will always answer your question if you are nervous. YOU MUST be using our OIL BLEACH KIT, that is the only product that I use and I know exactly how it works.

Remember - this does not mean everyone should run out and do this, you must always read all my Posts and follow the Crib Colorist rules.
 if you begin with very damaged hair 
this
PROCESS
IS
NOT
FOR
YOU ! ! ! 

 

 I am throwing this photo in here in a little out of context - - -  but I wanted you to see the difference in bleachings... See the hair its a Level 6 brown - see the gold that is after one bleaching.... see the white ???- - 
That is after 2 bleachings...
People stop after 1 bleaching and can't figure out why their hair isn't white..............


This series of photos is demonstrating the 2nd Bleaching (almost always necessary) I'm only applying it on the one side to Molly so you can see the difference between what is normally done at home and what we do at the Salon . (Everyone at home would only apply bleach once - hair is stronger than you think !)

 
This is showing the 2nd bleaching on the left side > see the 1 inch left alone after the 1st bleaching??

Using the 1/8" partings and going up the one side and quickly going up the second side...trying to get the back finished so you can move to the front is very helpful. This is where you will benefit from experience. 
Using a comb after each application of bleach will work it into the hair, all strands need to be saturated.

The usual method for a virgin bleach is applying it 1 inch OFF THE SCALP...why? Because the lengths of the hair lift (lighten) so much slower than the roots,

Here the 2nd side has all the bleach applied - although not on roots yet

for many reasons. #1 being pre-existing artificial pigment (old hair color), its rare to find many people that don't have some color in their hair. But lets just say you are a true virgin, still you would be applying the first application the same. 1 inch off the scalp and if the ends are super porous then off the ends as well.

On this left front piece I plan on demonstrating "OVERLAPPING" to many of you that have requested it, therefore am bleaching the lengths a couple times to use for this

Bleaching is not an easy project period. I love doing it and after you do it a few times its not near as complicated as this probably sounds, it really isn't - so do not get discouraged. My goal is to get America bleaching their hair like Stefani, and Aguillera...so they aren't the only ones with Killer Platinum hair !!

For the Perfect Platinum
The absolute best way to have this done successfully and evenly is to bleach your "new growth" roots every 21-24 days...that is exactly what Gwen, Christina, Pink, and any other dynamite platinum headed hottie does. I realize that 'sounds' difficult...it really isn't, it ends up easier because once you get the "underlying pigment" out of the lengths( yellows-oranges-golds) all you are dealing with is the 1/4" of new growth, so you don't have to Tone constantly. The hair has all traces of yellows/golds knocked out. When you want you can apply toners, for different looks and fun. I have over 100 Toners for blondes and I make-up about 15 from scratch. Once I learned Toners were exactly like watercolors - a passion of mine, I began mixing and playing and never stopped. Now I really have given away one of many "HAIR SECRETS" -- kept quiet for many decades!

There is no more meticulous application than that for scalp bleach. The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning and hair that doesn't break and looks luxurious. It is so possible for all of you, I swear its just not that hard of a project, you will see.

Taking fine sections is important - make sure they are thin enough to see through is a good rule of thumb. With retouches, you want to be careful of overlapping which I will show you in upcoming photo and posts. You must go far enough but not too far, which I promise we will cover thoroughly, I have had many requests on this subject.

You have to overlap a certain amount because of that dreaded LINE OF DEMARCATION, which can be difficult when bleaching. I find many occasions where I am mixing up a new batch of bleach & 40 volume to re-apply to that line, to get rid of it, so important. At times you will have to use your fingers (gloves on) to work the bleach into the that line or any other stubborn area of color that won't come out. Have you ever had to work in detergent to get out a stubborn stain in a white t-shirt? Same thing. Any stubborn areas --> apply a brand new mixed up batch of bleach and 40V, working it through, don't leave it on too long, rinse right away and dry to see how it looks. You may have to do it again until you learn what it looks like when it is completely out. I've been doing these for 15 years, of course it takes me once...but it sure didn't at the beginning.

Here's Molly's head taken with a FLASH, these 2 don't do her hair justice ...The left side has been bleached twice and I am hoping in one of these 4 photos in your computer you will be able to see the difference.
If you are lifting past yellow, which most of you will be...be patient. Gold is always the toughest pigment to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow. Patience -- patience, leave the bleach on for 60-70 minutes, then re-apply
Here is the chart of how the color LEAVES the hair strand....starting at level 1... as the bleach works it takes out the UNDERLYING PIGMENT according to this chart. As the Red-Brown is elminated...then you will see the Red, then as that is elminated, then you see the Red-Orange...and so on. According to the above paragraph "GOLD" is the toughest to get out, which you will learn is the truth....Level 7 thru Level 9 are the slowest to come out

I've included 2 different lightings of the back of Molly's head for you, both suck, hopefully you'll get the idea,they are of the same thing in the same day in the same light none of them looked like it did to the naked eye, the left side has been bleached 1 full hour longer than the right...can you see it? Maybe on your computer (hopefully)
These are after the Shampoo and the 2nd bleaching on the left side (back and front)

Rinsing after a bleach: Always use cool water (or lukewarm- just NOT hot) Bleach usually creates its own heat, alot has to do with each persons chemical make-up as to how warm each one of you gets. RINSE -- RINSE -- RINSE with cool water, it takes a while...NO SHAMPOO at this point. Just rinse with clear water until all of the product is out of the hair. As soon as you are sure the bleach is out, then give it a very light shampoo with a very mild shampoo, the scalp will be sensitive - be gentle. Plus, you have to apply again (roots) so be gentle. A light shampoo consists of lightly rubbing the lather into the hair for 20 seconds and rinsing it out MOST OF THE TIME.

One of the many secrets I apply in bleachings, came from my days as a cosmetic chemist. When I absorbed from my Chemist mentor that bleach truly does its main work in the first 55-65 minutes, after that it is minimal, I changed my technique. Most top stylists will leave that first application of bleach on for 2-3-4 hours (think Asian Hair or previously colored hair). Me...I take it off at 55 minutes...remix a new application and re-apply. Therefore a turbo boost version of bleach is applied which knocks out more of that annoying underlying pigment. This is what you do when you are doing Couture hair ...hair on models, fashion shows, Hair shows... yes we turn Level 1 Hair to Level 12, something I just told you wasn't a great idea.......why?

To show that "we Can !!!"....its an art, it is not very practical and is very expensive ( unless you are doing it to yourself !)

That "I Can" get every single bit of underlying pigment out of the Asian head of hair is an amazing accomplishment. Going to Sassoon that was the very first bleaching I did. An Asian advertising student from Pepperdine ( amazing I can remember that). My Instructor had me do a 2" Frame of White Hair around her entire head along her hairline, plus tint the black part a Midnight-Violet-Black....it was an incredible feeling accomplishing that. That is when I decided this was going to be a very cool ride

Remember > to do some of these radical procedures the hair MUST....I repeat MUST, be in good condition please don't apply Bleach to hair that is in poor condition, if you do, you will be very sorry. What I will be more than happy to do for Killerstranders> if you have any questions about the condition of your hair, have 3-4 photos of your hair, 2 up-close - & email them to me. Many people have done that, it doesn't bother me, I actually feel better knowing I've seen your hair. The part of this site that is frustrating for me? Not being able to touch or feel or "see" the hair of all the people asking questions and asking for advice. The first thing I do when meeting a new client is put my hands through their hair, it tells me so very much.

NO touch...NO Feel, and NO SIGHT ????

Wow, this is a whole new talent in hair styling. Virtual Hair Styling - I guess. Once the photos started coming I felt a little better, so please...if you can, they are more than welcome.

I remember hair with names, just names with NO HAIR for me are difficult 

Keep going for PART 2 ....these posts are from January 2008, I just am bringing them forward so everyone can find them !

GL


KC